Capitol Cuisine by Celeste McCall

artsdiningand

by Celeste McCall

CAPITOL CUISINE

Viva Mexico!

Zesty South-of-the-Border fare is heating up “The Avenue.” On May 5 (Cinco de Mayo), Zoca debuted at 319 Pennsylvania Ave. SE. The “Modern Mexican” newcomer is operated by the Delaware Hospitality Group, which also runs the nearby Harvest Tide steakhouse. There’s another Zoca in Bethany Beach, DE, and the original Harvest Tide is in Lewes, DE.

Zoca’s menu showcases chef Danio Somoza’s creations including whole red snapper, Mexican paella, assorted tacos, enchiladas, fajitas and barbacoa pork sandwiches, as well as an array of tequilas (including ights), margaritas, wine and beer.

This place is well run, focused and organized. Service is fairy swift, but not rushed. We began with a Harvest Tide beer and a Zoca Margarita. The latter, made with tequila, fresh citrus juice and agave was too sweet, but our server Ryda provided lime wedges to remedy the situation. Freshly made guacamole arrives in a ceramic molcajete. My burrito bowl, chock full of rice, beans, pickled onion and topped with avocado slices, was generous enough to share. My protein choice was spicy chorizo; other options were chicken, shrimp, pork or nothing at all. Peter’s shrimp tacos, paired with pickled onion and pico de gallo, were nestled in a soft tortilla. An ear of “street” corn, slathered with queso fresco béchamel, delivered a combination of sweetness and heat. Zoca is fairly pricey, but isn’t everything these days? Presented in a handsome cigar box, our luncheon tab was $95. Zoca is open daily; for exact hours and more information visit www.zocacapitolhill.com. By the way, sister restaurant Harvest Tide, 212 Seventh St. SE near Eastern Market, now serves weekday lunch and weekend brunch. For more information visit Error! Hyperlink reference not valid.

Mas Mexicano

Zoca, an upscale Mexican restaurant, has opened at 319 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, a sibling of nearby Harvest Tide. Garden Delight

Coming up June 21 from 6 to 8 p.m. is the Barracks Row Annual Garden Party at Little Pearl, 921 Pennsylvania Ave. SE. Hosting will be Chef Aaron Silverman, who presides over Little Pearl, Pineapple & Pearls, and Rose’s Luxury. Capitol Hill Jazz Foundation will jazz things up. For tickets and more information visit www.barracksrow.org/gardenparty.

Santa Rosa Taqueria, 301 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, has resurfaced aft er a two-year Covid hiatus.

A few doors away, Santa Rosa Taqueria has reopened recently in a new home— 301 Pennsylvania Ave. SE—after a twoand-a-half-year pandemic hiatus. Operated by Spike Mendelsohn and his family, the “new” Santa Rosa is located just a few doors away from the original, which held court at 315 Pennsylvania for several years. For a recent Friday lunch, the place was jam-packed with a halfhour wait. Having just reopened, the restaurant was still training its sta . Moreover, the “fast casual” service—ordering at the counter and then waiting for your food— was extremely cumbersome. We began with a tangy, potent margarita and Tecate beer, followed by a pair of tacos stu ed with pork belly and tempura battered cod, as well as chicken quesadillas and a delicious ear of roasted “street” corn. Carrying our loaded tray, we climbed upstairs to the spacious dining area, which a orded a panoramic view of the corner of Pennsylvania Ave. and Third Street.

Among other taco llings are shrimp, carne asada (steak), chorizo, “sloppy Joe” (seasoned ground beef with queso sauce). Quesadillas arrive with pico de gallo, sour cream and nice chunky guacamole. You can also nd chips and salsa and assorted burritos.

There’s a kid’s menu, and a popular happy hour. For more information visit www.santarosataqueria.com.

Sibling Rivalry

The Navy Yard’s popular Salt Line has unveiled a gorgeous o spring: Dauphine’s Raw Bar & Boucherie, 1100 15th St. NW. The New Orleans-themed Dau-

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phine’s is part of Long Shot Hospitality, which brought us the Navy Yard’s Salt Line.

On a chilly, late spring evening, we visited Dauphine’s, ensconced in the gleaming, futuristic Midtown Center. Designed by SHoP Architects and WDG Architecture, the 865,000 square-foot complex also houses the snazzy Japanese hotspot, Shoto, with more restaurants to follow.

After attending Peter’s prep school reunion, we repaired to Dauphine’s handsome, marbletopped bar. The menu was divided between large and small plates. We chose from the latter, ordering oysters Dauphine and gumbo z’herbes.

Chargrilled with spinach and pecorino (cheese) and spiked with horseradish, the concoction was a ri on traditional oysters Rockefeller. Dauphine’s soup-like gumbo was studded with moist pork morsels and greens. An o beat embellishment was a dollop of potato salad. Among other options are shrimp remoulade, duck jambalaya and “dirty” rice stuffed quail. Dinner for two with a glass of wine apiece, came to $78 before tip. Service, provided by bartender Kevin, was excellent. Visit www.dauphinesdc.com.

Also spawning an o spring is Eat Brgz, the corner burger eatery near Eastern Market. You’ll nd the outpost at 704 Seventh St. NW, in Chinatown. Founder and CEO Brandon Gaynor is known for mixing ingredients and spices directly into each burger before cooking them. Chinatown’s Eat Brgz features a 25- foot bar with cocktails created by bar manager Devlin BarryHoke, formerly with Pearl Dive, Maydan and Momofuku.

Nine Fishy Decades

Anchoring the District Wharf’s Municipal Fish Market, Jesse Taylor Seafood will soon turn 90.

longest lasting vendor at the District Wharf’s Municipal Fish Market, Jessie Taylor claims an interesting history.

In 1933, founders Chelton Evans and his brothers Filmore and Stanley sailed weekly from South Island, MD, purchasing seafoods from local shermen and selling them at the Municipal Fish Market. In 1939, Chelton saved up enough money to purchase his rst “buy boat” from Dike Taylor. The vessel was named after Dike’s son, Jessie Taylor.

In 1963, the District of Columbia allowed the Taylor craft to permanently dock at the Fish Market. Eventually the Evans family was able to truck in their bounty rather than haul it by boat. As their sales outgrew the Jessie Taylor’s small decks, the family began selling their products from oating barges. But the name of the boat stuck.

Today, almost a century later, two of the three Jessie Taylor barges hawk raw items including crabs, shrimp, shell sh, lobsters and n sh. The third barge serves steamed crabs and shrimp, soups, clam chowders and more.

Opened in 1805, The Municipal Fish Market, often called DC’s Fish Market, is the oldest continuously operating open air seafood market in the nation. It was featured on a recent episode of CNN’s marvelous “Nomad” series. For more information visit www. wharfdc.com/ sh-market/ ◆