OUT AND ABOUT
Insatiable by Celeste McCall
In Mount Vernon Triangle, snazzy newcomer Bar Chinois showcases “Frenchified” cocktails along with innovative dim sum. Photo: Celeste McCall
Bar Chinois Est Arrivee
East meets West in Mount Vernon Triangle with the recent unveiling of Bar Chinois at 455 I St. NW. Created by co-owner Dean Mosones and chef Tim Ma, the snazzy newcomer showcases Frenchified cocktails and innovative dim sum. Foodies will remember chef Ma, co-founder of the Chinese-American Lucky Danger pop-up at the same address. Before that, the space housed Prather’s on the Alley. On a balmy fall evening, we dined there al fresco. The place was humming, and we were grateful for our 7:30 p.m. reservations. From general manager Margaux Donati’s French wine list, we sipped a lovely Cotes du Rhone. There’s also pinot blanc
1 0 M I D CI T Y D C N EWS . C O M
and pinot noir from Alsace and lots of champagne. Snazzy cocktails include a Chinois mule (vodka, creme de cassis and more), and a Martinez made with gin and Dolin Rouge (French vermouth). Plus a brief beer listing. Complementing these potent potables are dim sum offerings including gossamer-light Beijing pork dumplings; you may also opt for ginger chicken or “beyond” (vegan). Shrimp ‒ or veggie ‒ spring rolls are not shaped like cylinders. Instead, they are fashioned into square packets presented in a Chinese carryout carton. A holdover from predecessor Lucky Danger? Served in a similar container is the duck bao ‒ moist, melt-in-yourmouth duck confit snuggled with pickled ginger
and cabbage slaw. “Crispy” chopped chicken is not crisp, but the generous white meat chunks are delicately perfumed with five-spice powder. Service, provided by Rami and Emily, was pleasant and professional. For hours and more information, visit www.barchinoisdc.com.
Egging Us On
We had been hearing good things about the deviled eggs at Etabli, 84 T St. NW (Bloomingdale), where Tyber Creek Wine Bar used to be. Husband Peter and I love this southern delicacy. So, on a recent Sunday, we decided to check out the eggs. Problem: the highly touted appetizer is not on the brunch menu. But we begged chef Anto-
