A&D Fall
Insatiable by Celeste McCall
H
usband Peter and I recently enjoyed a great 14th St. NW, in Logan Circle. You’ll find the lunch at CR NoMa, 140 M St. NE. The two850-square-foot newbie in the mixed-use Liz deand-a- half-year-old restaurant is a spinoff velopment. Co-owners are Ralph Brabham and of its Mount Vernon Triangle parent, The Jean Paul Sabatier. Sabatier is a culinary school Carving Room. The meaty monigrad who has managed Rappahannock ker might sound like a steakhouse Oyster Bar, Maydan and Compass name, but CR is much more Rose. He’s in charge of food and than that. Chef/co-owner drinks. Sabatier, who goes by Oded Weizmann grew up “JP,” is co-owner alongside in a Moroccan-Israeli Brabham and Drew Porterhousehold (his partner field, a married couple who is Rachel Steiman). own Shaw’s Beau Thai and Such a culinary backthe nearby, noodle-centric ground explains CR’s BKK Cookshop. vibrant, “inspired” MedThe bar’s short menu of iterranean/Middle Eastfinger foods includes mixed Andy’s Pizza, which took first place in the “traditional” division at the International Pizza Expo. ern menu, with Sephardic nuts spiced with rosemary Jewish flourishes. and cayenne; caramelized onbeers and wines from Europe, South Africa and OrAlthough CR’s stylish inteion dip and Jane’s caviar, the lategon. For hours and more information, visit www. rior looked inviting, we opted for ter a mixture of trout roe and creme janejanedc.com. a small outdoor table. Our personable fraiche, to be scooped up with potato server, Ty, took my order for a lip-tingling At CR NoMa, a roasted beet chips. Gouda and sharp cheddar pimento appetizer is a colorful mosaic Bloody Mary, which he presented in a of pureed beets, yogurt and cheese offer a nod to Brabham and PorNearby, restaurateur Med Lahlou has unveiled spice-encrusted glass and garnished with terfield’s North Carolina roots. The ownfeta and goat cheese. Lupo Pizzeria at 1908 14th St. NW, practically next an olive and lime wedge. ers plan to add a weekend brunch that door to sibling osteria Lupo Verde. The interior is a For starters, we shared an appetizer of roasted will bring pastries and quiches from Shaw’s Butterfeast for the eyes, a vision of colorful hand-painted beet dip ‒ a colorful mosaic which tasted as good cream Bakeshop. tiles, ceramic plates, Italian flags, blue-cushioned as it looked ‒ concentric circles of pureed beets, yoJane Jane’s homey decor captures the feeling of chairs and a handsome marble-topped bar. There’s gurt and feta and goat cheese, all accompanied by Mom’s living room. In fact, Jane Jane is a reference also outdoor seating. delicious garlicky pita and healthy cucumber and to Brabham’s mother’s nickname. “She is just Emerging from the open kitchen: carrot spears. a super outgoing, friendly, life-of-thecarbonara pizza topped with pecoriCovering two international culinary bases, cusparty type of lady,” he said. “She no cream, guanciale (cured pork tomers may choose the pastrami Cuban sandwich loves to have people over at her cheeks), black pepper and eggs. house and can entertain at of “griddled” marble rye piled with house-cured We ordered this deconstructpastrami, grilled onions, Swiss cheese and mayo. An the drop of a dime.” ed version of spaghetti caralternative is the traditional pastrami Reuben, where Jane Jane organizes its bonara. While the overall pickles sub for the usual sauerkraut, Russian dressing cocktail menu by types creation was flavorful, we for mayo. of spirits, listing classics found the eggs a little too Among other seasonal temptations are tumlike gin-based Negronis runny, and we would have my-warming matzo ball soup, “classic” cigars and martinis along with liked more pork, which tast(fried spring rolls filled with Moroccan-spiced lesser-known drinks like ed more like regular bacon. an Air Mail, built with aged ground brisket); hearty meatball subs; lamb rib Another pizza choice is Lupo rum, honey syrup, lemon juice, flatbread with mint and yogurt; beer, wine and Marino, a melange of prawns, Angostura bitters and cava. A rococktails. For exact hours and more information, mussels, and dashi tomato passata tating selection of seasonal cocktails visit www.carvingroom.com. (thick tomato paste), all heaped atop includes a Pink Corvair, made with Also at Lupo Pizzeria, tiramisu house-made, squid-ink-infused dough. vodka, Curacao, homemade grenadine is presented in a small flowerpot and crowned with strawberries Diners may also build-their own pies. and lemon juice. Also flowing are craft and shaved chocolate. Other options encompass “classic Jane Jane, a cozy cocktail bar, has arrived at 1705
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