OUT AND ABOUT
Insatiable by Celeste McCall
W
e had intended to visit Yardbird Southern Table & Bar, in Mount Vernon Square. We finally found an opportunity when we took our ailing cellphones to the “phone doctors” at the Carnegie Library Apple Store across the street. While our “patients” were being treated, we retreated across the street to Yardbird, 901 New York Ave NW. Yardbird’s handsome decor is replete with glittering light fixtures, comfy banquettes and a bustling open kitchen. Perched at the marble-topped bar, we gave our order to Tamika, the pleasant and competent bartender. Yardbird’s specialty is, not surprisingly, chicken ‒ fried, roasted whole, escorted by house-baked biscuits or paired with waffles. Among other options are lobster mac and cheese, wild-caught grilled rockfish and a 32-ounce porterhouse steak. Smoked trout roe enlivened the artistic deviled eggs. The fried green tomato BLT was a trio of openfaced sandwiches crowned with pimento cheese and delicious house-smoked pork belly. Smoked salmon avocado toast was another winner. The kitchen starts with quality multigrain bread, slathered with lots of avocado and smoked salmon and showered with pickled shallots, fennel and radish. Yardbird’s extensive wine list offers foreign and domestic vintages and inventive cocktails. I sipped a zesty Bloody Mary, served in a spice-encrusted glass. There’s also an amazing bourbon selection. Yardbird is an upscale place, part of a highend international chain. Lunch for two with one
Not surprisingly, Yardbird specializes in chicken, usually fried or roasted, along with waffles and house-baked biscuits.
1 4 M I D CI T Y D C N EWS . C O M
made from cornmeal with various fillings), sprinkled over ceviche, perched on cocktails or burrowed into bunuelos (like fritters) for dessert. Chicatana majority owner Emily Vasquez told Eater DC that ants are still prepared in Mexican home kitchens. Renowned Mexico City restaurant Pujol has prepared the bugs, and Masienda, a purveyor that has helped make Mexican heirloom corn widely available stateside, sells the ants online. Visit www.masienda.com/shop. Along with the ants, Zamudio and Vasquez employ a custom-built trompo (vertical spit) for roasting spiced pork and pineapple to be tucked into pastor tacos. Chicken is splashed with mole made with guajillo and ancho chiles, chocolate and other ingredients. Finger-sized molotes, pastries made from corn or sweet plantains, arrive in a ceramic bowl. Mexican-born beverage director/partner Hector Flora concocts his own syrups for pomegranate margaritas and tamarind Chicatana sours, garnished with ‒ you guessed it ‒ yet more ants. For more information, call 202-516-4924 or visit www.chicatanadc.com.
In Mount Vernon Square, Yardbird Southern Table & Bar showcases an attractive, lively dining and bar area.
drink came to $80 with the (included) tip. Yardbird is open daily and also provides takeout and delivery. For more information, visit www.runchickenrun.com/dc.
Market Watch
Good news! DC Dosa has reopened in Union Market, after a pandemic-related hiatus. Fans may again enjoy Priya Ammu’s dosas ‒ crepes stuffed with choice of goodies including spicy lentils, eggplant, curried potatoes and roasted veggies. They make the crepes right in front of customers, who may also order soups and lassi (a refreshing yogurt-based beverage). In South India, dosas are a popular street food. Located at 1309 Fifth St. NE, Union Market is open daily. For a full DC Dosa menu, visit www.dcdosa.com.
Viva Italia!
In Shaw, Quattro Osteria has flung open its 18thcentury double doors, bringing the neighborhood fresh pastas from a chef (as yet unnamed) who’s cooked in Michelin-starred restaurants in Tuscany. You’ll find the 1,673-square-foot newcomer at 600 Florida Ave. Folks are getting antsy in NW. Designed to resemble Midtown. We’ve been saman Italian sidewalk cafe, pling grasshopper tacos and Quattro Osteria’s outdoor worm-and-salt-rimmed terrazzo seats 70 diners. cocktails for several years. Quattro Osteria coBut a new edible insect has owner Louie Hankins flown into town. Chicatana, also operates the jungle3917 14th St. NW, takes its themed rooftop bar El Tename from a flying ant indigcho and taqueria Rito Loco enous to the southern Mexican next-door. Brothers Giovanni state of Oaxaca. Chef Marand Salvio Ippolito, who celino Zamudio roasts the inhail from Naples, are partHouse-smoked pork belly and pimento cheese enhance sects whole. Then he arranges nering with Hankins on Yardbird’s popular fried green tomato BLT. them atop gorditas (flatbread the new restaurant.
Getting Antsy
