Rag & Bone a/w 13/14
regressive imagination
Contents: trend Analysis - page 3 Trend introduction - page 3 Colour - page 3 Print - page 3 Fabrics and sillhouettes -page 4 Relation to brand - page 4
Market Report - Page 4 Company Analysis - page 4 Brand positioning analysis - page 5 consumer prof ilr - page 6
Range Concept - Page 7 Range introduction - page 7 designs - page 7
Range Plan - page 8 - 10 Finance plan - page 11 Financial justifcation - page 11 future forecaste - page 11
Marketing activites - page 11 product launch - page 11 print campaign - page 12 Online media - page 12 chanels of distribution - page 12
appendix -page 13 - 22 bibliography - page 23
Trend Analysis 1. Trend Introduction The trend that Rag & Bone have picked up upon for the A/W 13/14 season is the micro trend of Regressive Imagination. This trend has a strong focus on the building of artistic culture in generation Y and the growing popularity of art amongst the masses, street art (See Appendix fig. 2) being an example of how people feel the need to now express themselves creatively, particularly in areas such as east London where this movement is being born. Influences such as Tim Walkers recent exhibition at Sommerset House have also influenced this trend with his strong use of child like images combined with adult themes. Moreover, the current economic climate (See Appendix fig. 3) are making generation Y pine for a simpler time and want to regress to a state of childhood. 2. Colour The colour pallet in the Regressive Imagination trend has is very powerful and bright. The resources for this have been found in a variety of manners. The most prominent influences for colour in this trend have been the pieces of street art found in the East end of London, mostly the areas of Shoreditch and Bricklane. These murals have used incredible use of colour, really causing each piece to stand out to the viewer. The bright pallets also reflect the idea of childhood regression in this trend, showing an almost childlike imagination in each piece (See
Example of East end steert art
Example of use of colour in Tim Walker’s work.
Appendix fig. 2). Tim Walker’s work has also been used to take inspiration for the colour pallet of the trend, with some pieces of his work using very bright and vivid colours to convey the meaning behind the image. Also, traditional colourings of oranges and blues have also been used to enforce the season of the trend: A/W 13/14. 3. Print Print ideas for the trend once again follow ideas of regression back into childhood. One of the main ideas for the prints of the trend follows ideas of a childlike imagine. For example, cosmic and space prints have been forecast from the idea of how young boys always dream of careers that they wish to be, in this case for example, being an astronaut. Rabbits are also very important, using the past to reference this idea, with the popular image of the white rabbit, from the popular children’s novel ‘Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland’, and the fact that a majority if small children love rabbits as animals and love to keep them as pets. Some print ideas don’t completely focus on the childhood theme of regression, but instead alter there focus on the art and imagination basis of the trend. Some of the ideas of print have been made obscure in order to include the consumer in the trend, letting them use their imagination in order to
let them establish what the print is, furthering the dimensions of the trend. Regressive ideas have also been explored to a more in depth level, looking to past in order to garnish ideas, with floral patterns of the 60s being used in some of the prints to allow more experimentation with the trend, also, the street art that has been used as inspiration also gives a feel of this period of time. 4. Fabric and Sillhouettes After analysisng trade show reports for A/W 13/14 on WGSN, the denim trade show Kingpins in LA (See Appendix fig. 1), shows to be very on trend for this season, in addition to the fact that denim is often considered a timeless fabric in fashion. The use of leather is also part of trend due to rise in popularity of leather products, such as leather jackets, and is also part of the cycle of regression, going back to the punk trends of the 70s, giving the trend a vintage feel aswell, as the trend in vintage has also sky rocketed in generation Y in recent years. Corduroy is also highly on trend for similar reasons, being sold in a variety of current retailers . Other fabrics are also on trend, but not as stand alone products, spandex, for example, is often combined with other fabrics like denim to alter the silhouette of the garment. Silhouettes of the denim product for this trend follow three of the most popular cuts of denim for generation Y: Skinny, Straight and Carrot. These cuts are often used for the denim products sold to this generation (See Appendix fig. 7). They have also been on trend for a number of years, becoming almost classic pieces over the past 10 years and are easily still high in the late majority part of innovation adoption lifecycle (See Appendix fig. 3), thereby meaning that they will still be classed as on trend and fashionable by the time Rag & Bone approach the A/W 13/14 season. 5. Relation to Brand This trend is perfect for Rag & Bone for numerous reason. Firstly, the trend sits well with the brand itself, who state that Rag & Bone create art, and would thus give Rag & Bone the ability to show off the artist potential of the company. As the trend is mostly based on themes and occurrences that have happened in London, it lies perfectly with the recent launch of the new Sloane Square store, meaning that it will create strong links with the consumers
based in London as it shows them how events in the city is influencing the brand, thus creating a feeling of attachment to the brand as Rag & Bone is using strong British influence. The trend is also very good in keeping up with the changing habits of the consumer as a range inspired by this trend will be very different to anything ever created by the brand and will have a distinctive look. This relates to the consumer as many people in generation Y crave to stand out from the crowd and look different to others around them, hence the sudden rise in vintage clothing as it gives the consumer that feeling that they are unique and look very different to others around them.
Example of how Gen Y use fashion to make statements
Market Report
1. Company Analysis Developed in New York in 2002, Rag & Bone has the ability to express perfectly the ideas of modern, urban, tailored design. First beginning as a purely based denim based company 10 years ago, Rag & Bone have broadly expanded the ranges that they have developed, developing ranges of women’s wear as well as the original men’s wear designs that they began with since the initial establishment. With ranges gradually expanding from the preliminary denim routes, Rag & Bone are still known for the
will then have a greater share in the UK denim market. high quality trouser wear that they produce in comparison to other brands in the modern market. Because of this dominance they have created within 2. Brand positioning analysis that specific part of the industry, it is easily stated that this is one of Rag & Bone’s most predominant When analysing the current competition of the denim strengths and is thus its USP (unique selling point).It market for the target demographic of 18 – 25 and who is therefore very important for Rag & Bone to keep currently offer garments priced at similar costing’s to up to date on changes in the industry, for example, Rag & Bone, several competitors rise to show strong threat to Rag & Bone in how they differ to Rag & according to the recent WGSN trend report on denim for A/W 13/14 from the Los Angeles trade Bone, but also to how Rag & Bone are also able to show Kingpins, bright colours in denim will be very show a threat to these companies in its own right (See Appendix fig.9). popular for this season in addition to making the fabric itself have a vintage texture. With a positive growth in the denim market of 5% in the two-year Most of the competitors are offering denim jeans at a period of recession in 2008-09, the resilience of this variation of different prices (See Appendix fig.7) with market is something that Rag & Bone plays heavily the lowest competitor offering jeans at the price of £30, and the most expensive being £220, the with towards its advantages. average price of the overall competition being £137, Additionally, with the opening of the new London and the average price in our range of trouser products is £175. This means Rag & Bone need to use other European flagship in Sloane Square, the ability ways to cut out the competition as the price of Rag to earn bigger profits in the European market is & Bone’s garments are higher than a majority of our now available . Due to the EU free trade act (See Appendix fig. 5), money can be saved on the initial competitors. cost price of garments, as if they shipped from The majority of our competition, along with Rag & countries associated with the act, the cost of Bone, can be positioned in the designer end (See shipping tax is evaded. Korea could then be seen Appendix fig. 6) of the market, however, Topman as a suitable place to begin manufacturing due and All Saints are classed as highstreet brands, and their association with the act, meaning that they can trade for free in the EU. Furthermore, the new what they may lack in quality and perceived value, opening into the Asian market, with stores now in they make up for in brand awareness on the market, Seoul and Tokyo, means that making garments in particularly in the 18 – 30 male demographic. Likewise, Korea could save on additional transportation costs even though these brands may lack the quality that Rag & Bone have, they use very fashionable styles in this market. that appeal to the target market, and due to the Because of how new Rag & Bone is considered in significantly cheaper cost, the garments are easily replaced. In doing this, these brands are focusing on terms of there competition, several weaknesses of the company must be amended to make them bigger players on the market (See Appendix fig. 9). The primary weakness of the brand is the lack of promotion they use in the UK and European markets, failing to establish themselves and break into a significant market share of the denim industry in these areas. However, this opportunity has recently opened with the Sloane Square store, meaning that Rag & Bone now have the chance to further develop into these markets. Even though it can be argued that the products Rag & Bone sell in terms of denim can be found at cheaper prices(See Appendix fig.7), and the rise of VAT in UK by 2.5% (See Appendix fig.5) will cause prices in increase slightly, strong promotion of the brand will help the The London Sloane Square store brand to break in strongly to these market, and thus
disposable fashion, giving them a unique advantage when compared to the other competitors (See Appendix fig. 10). Nonetheless, due to the lack of perceived value these brands have, and the fashion knowledge of our consumer, it significantly reduces the amount of competition they offer. The biggest disadvantage for Rag & Bone is its lack of presence on the European market, the first London fashion week presentation only happening last year in the whole 10 years the brand has been established. The lack of stores in this continent means there is a resilient lack of brand awareness when compared with other competitors on the denim market. With the new opening of the Sloane Square store, Rag & Bone will struggle to increase the notoriety on the UK and European markets as other brands, such as Burberry, have long established themselves in these markets by comparasion.
and other areas (Seegenerations, Appendix fig. 9). as Baby mind sets of earlier such Boomers and early generation X. The Rag & Bone consumer will often have a large disposable income, or have access to one, parents for example, and in terms of class would be considered to be middle class due to this. Rag & Bone does also have an upper class consumer but more often the consumer is middle class. They will be earning more than the average yearly wage (See Appendix fig. 5) and because of this are in much more a niche than the rest of the general retail market.
Finally, reffering back to the first point the competition offer very similar garment choice to Rag & Bone and a majority offer it at a similar, if not lower price (See Appendix fig. 7), meaning that the consumer has no underlining factor in which brand they should choose. This means that most consumer will dephend on factors such as brand loyality and awareness as to where to purchase the garments that they desire, illustrating how Rag & Bone need to improve on its weakness in terms of promotion 3. Consumer Profiling The consumer for Rag & Bone is the latter part of generation Y (1977 – 94) with a target demographic of 18 – 30. This means that the demographic for Rag & Bone is very modern will be very good with modern technology in comparison to other generations such as the Baby Boomers. The consumer will often considered themselves as stylish and are considered to be label seekers and to some extent individualists. They will also have a high interest in other areas such as art and music. The male consumer for Rag & Bone have also adopted the 21st century culture of the metrosexuality, meaning that they are taking on a much higher approach to there appearance, purchasing such things as grooming products, in order to look more presentable and are thus taking on slightly more feminine aspects of there appearance in order to look presentable, something which differs the Rag & Bone consumer from the
An example of a typical Rag & Bone consumer
Range concept 1. Range Introduction The concept of this range is very different from anything that Rag & Bone has tried to do before, and can be seen as something very unique to the market at this time, and for the A/W 13/14 season. The main idea of the range was developed from Rag & Bone’s original routes in the denim industry, thus this range is going to work in where the companies strengths lie, a range of jeans, with additions of other trousers made in different fabrics. The main twist of this range in order to make it unique will the be the strong prints used on each garment, an idea gathered from the WGSN trade report on the Kingpins trade show (See Appendix fig. 1), with no pair being the same, thereby creating a deep and narrow range. Each of the prints will be following the idea of the trend ‘Regressive Imagination’ to make each garment very strong and on trend. Moreover, it will purely be a menswear range as it is once again following the ideas of regression in Rag & Bone as it began as a purely menswear only brand.
always been traditionally in style, black and white, so even though they may not follow the trend, they can still be viewed as fashionable to the consumer. The colour pallet has also been manipulated into helping define this range as a menswear range, as one of the main concerns with the trend is that the brightness of perhaps feminine feel of some of the colours may prevent the male market being interested in the range itself. This will be done by selective use of the colours on each of the garments and the range, for example, the bright pinks will be used less over the range in comparasion to others. All of the prints used also try and to create an adult twist to the traditional childlike imagery. Certain prints for example will use the famous cartoon characters from the but will change it to a more adult theme by just using a skeleton of the characters, not the characters themself. The same can also be said for rabbit themed garment that will be in the range as it will using the traditional idea of how rabbits are often associated with children, but will illustrate it in an artistic, adult manner, an idea that also relates to Tim Walker who has been a strong influence within this trend.
2. Designs Three cuts will be used in the range: Skinny, Straight and Carrot. These have been selected due to the popularity of these cuts and uses by other stores. Additionally, this information relates back to the trend as these are the cuts of jeans that have been forecasted to remained in popularity for the duration of the A/W 13/14 trend, they are also the most popular cuts of menswear. The prints on each of jeans will also strongly reflect the concepts create by the ‘Regressive Imagination’ trend with strong use of childlike images used, as well as the focus on the idea of making the consumer use there own imagination in order to establish what they feel the garments convey and mean, thus bringing in the use of personal thought that has been established in the trend, giving it a further unique angle. In terms of colour, some items of the range do not completely obey the colour scheme conveyed by the trend, but a majority contain at least one colour of the trend within them. Some of the garments will not utilise the colour scheme of ‘Regressive Imagination’ but will still use colours that have
An example of how Tim Walker using rabbits in a childlike and adult manner
PRODUCT&DESCRIPTION Grass%Eyes%)%Carrot%Cut RETAIL&PRICE £625 TARGET&COST&PRICE £130.00 MARK&UP&FACTOR 4.81 TARGET&MARGIN 75.04% UNIT&BUY 320 TOTAL&BUY £200,000 WEIGHT 13oz FABRIC Japanese7Demin770%,7Sheep7Skin,730% TOTAL £2,000,035.00
RANGE&PLAN
Monster%at%the%Window%)%Carrot%cut £310 £70.00 4.43 72.90% 100 £31,000 10oz Japanese7Demin
Skeleton%Bird%)%Carrot%Cut £280 £40.00 7.00 82.86% 225 £63,000 8oz Japense7Denim
£425 £105.00 4.05 70.35% 300 £127,500
11oz Japenese7Demin7front7and7back,7Spandex7side7panelling
Puzzle%Piece%)%Skinny%Cut
£475 £100.00 4.75 74.74% 450 £213,750 8oz Japenese7denim,7lycra7woven7in
Blue%Jungle%)%Carrot%Cut
Range Plan
Toy%Soldier%)%Straight%Cut £325 £55.00 5.91 79.69% 250 £81,250.00 13oz Japenese7Denim7
Running%Rabbits%)%Skinny%Cut £850 £200.00 4.25 71.76% 400 £340,000 12oz Leather
The%Birds%)%Straight%Cut £330 £60.0 5.50 78.18% 100 £33,000 13oz Japense7Denim
£450 £90.00 5.00 76.00% 227 £102,150 117oz 65%7Japenese7Denim,745%7Elastine
Totem%Pole%)%Skinny%Cut
13oz Japense7denim7woven7with7lycra
£550 £105.00 5.24 77.09% 455 £250,250
Skies%at%Night%)%Skinny%Cut
13oz Japense7Denim
£325 £60.00 5.42 77.85% 350 £113,750
Lithogram%)%Skinny%Cut
107oz Corduary
Hot%Wax%)%Skinny%Cut £250 £40.00 6.25 80.80% 300 £75,000
£365 £70.00 5.21 76.99% 149 £54,385
13oz 80%7Japense7Denim,720%7cotton
Cosmic%)%Straight%Cut
Don't%ask%Why%)%Straight%Cut £300 £50.00 6.00 80.00% 200 £60,000 137oz Corduary
13oz Leather
£850 £200.00 4.25 71.76% 300 £255,000
Top%Cat%)%Straight%Cut
Finance plan 1. Financial justification There are many variations in the prices of the garments within the range, with the entry price being £250, and the highest price point £850. However, even due to the wide range of price between, the profit margins retained only have a 10% difference throughout the whole range, thus maintaining a general equal amount of profit taken percentage wise for each garment, therefore reducing the risk of losing a mass amount of profit over the range. The low cost of some of the items is also to abide by Rag & Bones idea of making clothes that are more affordable for the public, and clothes that will create an appetite for the market. In addition to this, the cost prices of the garment are varied due to certain factors involved, most namely the fabric. All of the basic denim jeans in the range will be made from Japanese denim to give the garment a higher quality, something that is expected from a brand that strongly promotes quality within itself. Elaborating on ideas of quality within the brand and product, the cost price of each garment will be higher than those of standard high street stores mostly due the increase of time and work that will be in each of the garments. This will increase the cost price of each of the garments, as it shall require a higher cost of labour involved within each of the garments. Furthermore, the cost digitally printing each garment will cost more than making a standard pair of jeans, another factor that has been looked into within the cost price. Relating back to the fabrics used within each garment, some requiring more expensive fabrics have also caused an increase in the garment price. The one of the leading products in this range, the ‘Running Rabbits’ are one of the most expensive garments in the range, most due to the fact that the fabric used for them is leather and due to the high quality needed in the garment, the leather most be that a very good quality, thereby increasing the price of this garment far beyond a majority of items in the collection. Moreover, other garments in the range, mostly the skinny cut garments, the fabric is often weaved with, or the garment is made, with other types of fabrics, such as spandex, in order to make them as close fitting as possible to the consumer. Additionally, the weight of each of the
garments can also further increase the price of the garment as it is being made with more fabric and in a sense increasing the quality of each garment and shape of each garment. 2. Future Forecast In terms of the amount of garments ordered, some have considerably higher orders than others as these garments will sell much better than others, and therefore it can be seen as an attempt to try and prevent any lose of money that may unfortunately occur within this range. Additionally, the high percentage mark up of each product means that when the items go on sale at the end of the season, the selected 20% drop in the price of the garment means that Rag & Bone will still maintain a strong profit margin along the range, thereby decreasing the amount of profit lost. The period between November and January is predicted to be the biggest selling part of the season due the Christmas and January sales period. The range is estimated to have sold by 75% before the start of the end of season sales in January thus granting a major profit as over half of the range would of sold at full price. The selected deduction of 20% during the sales period means that the remaining 15% of this stock will give Rag & Bone a total net profit of £386,137.33 on sales items alone, with the stock selling at original price will gain £1,118,412 net profit, meaning that from the £415,485 used to create the range, and estimated profit of £1,574,549.83 is forecasted to be made.
Marketing Activities 1. Product Launch The launching of the range shall initially take place in the European flagship store in Sloane Street, London. Due to the radical change in this range the product in terms of normal Rag & Bone design, it is highly important that this launch is a success in order to allow the range to sell well in the beginning of its introduction. Important members of the industry well be invited along to the store on the date of the launch for a champagne reception whilst each item of the range is introduced periodically throughout the night with designers explaining the ideas of the range as each item is introduced, thus trying to further the interest the said members will
have about the range, members of the press shall also be invited in order to further promote the event and the range, creating interest in this new unique range. After initial launch has occurred, the club Fabric in east London has been selected to host an after party as such with guest DJs that the target consumer will find interesting and enjoy, showing the youth of the brand in a sense and creates a buzz about the products and the club night itself. 2. Print Campaign For the print campaign, the slogan, ‘Release your inner child’, has been chosen as this best illustrates the ideas behind the trend and best express the meanings of the designs. Publications such as I.d. magazine have been selected to run the campaign, as has a high amount of our chosen demographic reading the magazine, with its readership being 35% 18-30 year olds. Additionally, the magazine GQ has also been selected to run the print campaign due to the fact the main target audience for the magazine is male, therefore for a menswear collection, it will hopefully attract the target consumer more accurately than advertising in a magazine such as Vogue, which only really targeted at a female audience.
3. Online Media The high increase in the use of social media is a hard factor to ignore in modern promotion and is thus a very crucial tool to use in terms of marketing this range. The Rag & Bone twitter feed will prove very useful in building up anticipation of this range for the A/W 13/14 season, realising information slowly throughout the two week build up to the range being launched, realising images of the key leading garments of this range over that period of time. It can also be used to promote the project launch, realising the link on twitter to buy tickets to the club night in London, allowing the consumers who follow us on twitter to be alerted first of this event as this event is mostly targeted at who will be the consumer of the product. An online video will also be used to attract the attention of the consumer, using a very surreal setting with models wearing some of the garments within the range, Tim Walker will be used to direct the video, as his directing style is something that will hopefully further enforce the ideas of the trend as other films he has done follow the feeling Rag & Bone want this video to achieve (See Appendix). 4. Channels of Distribution The range has been distributed globally shows the levels in which Rag & Bone need to market the range (See Appendix fig. 11). For example, the London store has the highest amount of the range in stock, meaning that the highest level of marketing is needed in this area, hence the reason for choosing this as the location for the product launch, followed secondly by New York. The Tokyo store will need the least amount of marketing involved as it has very little stock, along with several other stores that have this same amount.
I-D magazine
Appendix Figure 1 – WGSN Trend report
Figure 2 – London street art
Figure 3 - Tim Walker
Figure 3 – Tim Walker
Figure 4 – Innovation adoption lifecylce
Figure 5 - Pest Analysis Political – A variety of political influence can currently be seen in terms of how it alters the current the retail market. The European Union free trade act can be seen as a very crucial factor in this as it allows current countries to freely trade with all countries that are in the EU. This therefore influences certain factors as it follows reduced cost of items traveling from countries outside the EU into it buy disallowing the tax that must be paid. This can be said to change the market, as it will reduce certain cost that are involved in the basic cost price of garments, most notably that of shipping cost due to how the tax has been waved. Economic – Arguably, one of the most important economic factors that will affect the market currently is the governmental decision to up the VAT on items from 17.5% to 20%. This will have a strong effect on the market, as it will cause the costs of garments to rise by 2.5% which means that not only will companies lose 2.5% of the profit they are able to earn on each garment, but this cost may also put off the consumer from purchasing certain items due to the rise of the cost, especially to those of more designer market as the rises will be considerably more noticeable than those of the lower market. Additionally, the current double dip recession that we are currently living in means that people are trying to cut back certain costs, cutting back on certain luxuries, most typically, clothing, this therefore will effect the retail market more than most. Social – In terms of social changes within the market, certain things such as income distribution will affect the retail market. This can be related to the market due to the vast difference of wealth within the market, the average yearly wage in the UK being £17,500, meaning that for the designer market, there is a more limited demographic of consumers to target, thus reducing the a potential market size they could target substantially. However, due to the higher education levels of generation Y and Z, with more attending university and a majority at least going onto further education, the highly paid job prospects have increased tenfold to how it would have been for previous generations, meaning that there still is a possible chance for the demographic of designers brands to expand in the next 5 – 10 years. Furthermore, the UK can also be described to have an ageing population with less and less people having children, which may mean there is still also a chance of designer brands targeted at a more youthful market may see there target demographics shrinking in the future. Technology – The new development changes within the creation part of the process of products will also create changes in the current retail market, and the future. With the creation of such technologies to replace people in certain aspects of the process means that that companies will save money on labour costs, meaning that they can either charge less for the garments they are selling, or keep the prices the same and increase
there profit margins. However, due to the current speed in how technology us currently developing, the technology companies may invest in could easily become obsolete within a matter of years, meaning that constant investment in the development of technology is needed in order to allow the company to keep up with competition of other brands, and could therefore been seen as a greater loss of money in the short term as they may save money in the long term by keeping the labour that they originally used.
Figure 6 - Brand positioning
Figure 7 – Like for Like Figure 8 – Brand Onion Figure 9 – SWOT Figure 10 – Differential Table Figure 11 – Distribution Channels
Figure 7 - Like for Like
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Figure 8 - Brand Onion
Figure 9 - SWOT
Figure 10 – Differential Table
Figure 11 – Distribution Channels
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