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LIANORI
VIA GIA COMO MATTEO TTI
RAD O STA LING
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C 1088 Birth of Alma Mater Studiorum. Students from all
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over Europe came to Bologna to listen to lessons of law. So the university was founded.1000 years later nothing has changed.
C 1200 Birth of tortellini. Does the powerful nobility of
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Bologna leave some meat served at their sumptuous banquets? Never mind, folks cook it up again wrapped in egg pasta: nobility doesn’t exist anymore but tortellini still do. UR R
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C Birth of Bologna. As the story goes the Etruscan king Fedro was building the walls of the city on a very hot day, so he asked his daughter for some water. She said she would procure it only if he gave her name to the city: Felsinea. And he did it.
E ALIGHIER
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36 TAKE A WALK TO THE OLD TAVERN
If you ask a Bolognese about Osteria da Vito place he will probably answer “Ooh... There you can breathe the atmosphere of a tavern, as they once were”. This place has become famous over the years as the haunt of diferent naional arists who have their roots in the land of Emilia. The cheapness of food (6€ for a plate of pasta) and the strangeness of those who work here did the rest. Monday-Saturday open at lunch and dinner. Sunday open at lunch.
37 0 Km MARKET AND MUSIC
Spazio Sociale Vag61. Tuesday night. Two large courtyards: one hosts the organic market of “0 Km”products (fruits, vegetables, cheese). In the other young and not so young people quietly eaing and drinking a glass of wine. In the inner rooms DJs and concerts are the soundtrack of the night.
VIA
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LI LI A NGE DEG
OL O AM M N
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ETTI LOG N LO B O VICO
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UO VO OST ERL VIA A GUE RRA ZZI
LO P
RIAL TO
VIA VIA
E ALIGHIER
DE
TTI
In this place, in spring and summer, we usually take shelter from the heat. The Giardini Margherita are inspired by romanic English gardens, and inside them there’s a small lake (with countless turtles wallowing in it) and several ields. Here, during the day, students usually sunbathe, improvise soccer matches and train with their jugglers instruments. In the middle of the park there’s a chalet: bar during the day (for the enire period of the year) and club called Chalet dei Giardini Margherita at night in spring and summer. (Erasmus and University night on Wednesday evening free entry, Friday and Saturday 10€).
ZZIN
C 1235 Dolce Stil Novo. Born in Bologna, Guido Guizzinelli is a poet and the theorist of the dolce stil novo, the current Italian literature of the thirteenth century. Dante Alighieri will become the most famous exponent of this literary movement and with this style he’ll write the Divina Commedia.
VIA
PU
35 QUEEN’S PARK
1288 “No building shall be built without arcades.” This is the text of the medieval edict (more or less) that makes the city of Bologna the one with the longest arcades in the world.
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ENI OR UID VIA G RG ON BO VIA
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If you’re looking for a stereotypical bar, Miki and Max is not for you. Here, on the same street of one of the very irst Italian neighbourhoods TV channel, students, arists and professionals have been meeing for three decades at aperiivo ime (7 p.m.) enjoying a beer (drat 3.30€) or a spritz (2.50€) surrounded by a quirky lair reminiscent of the 80s. Outside on the iny terrace you could ind friendly strangers with whom you could even play table football in the inside room. Closed on Sunday. Closed from the 10th to the 25th of August.
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34 FLAVORS OF 80s
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If Amelie Poulain were from Bologna, she’d go to Frame Cafè it’s the cutest bar that reminds you of your grandma’s kitchen, if your grandma had more than one table in her living room. It’s a cosy place to go to with a good friend and chat over a slice of cake / quiche / milkshake / tea / hot chocolate, or with your dog and a book. Closed on Saturday and Sunday.
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VIA SAN MAMOLO
ZA RV AN SE LL ’OS DE
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ASTIG VIA C
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TOTR ECEN TO
AR SC MA
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VIA GARIB
CO
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VIA D’AZEGLIO
VIA DE
ALDI
EGLIO D’AZ VIA
TA’ LLA LIB ER
CA RAR PET VIA
VIA VES T
VIA
LL A AR E MA SC VIA
DEL VIA IETR O AN P DI S
BOR DEL VIA
VIA CASTIGLIONE
E FIOR
VIA TAGLIAP IETRE
VIA USO ALPET R VIA M
DI AN GU AL VIA
VIA VEZ ZA
PIE TRO AN DI S
CA LUC CAP
O DI
VIA OBERDAN
VIA DELL
PIAZZA DEL NETTUNO
VIA D’AZEG
LIO
VIA CE
PIAZ VIA
ANTA
A SC UR LE VA L
GO
APO D VIA C
DENZA ’INDIPEN
SAURO VIA NAZARIO ZA M AL
PIGH I
SARE B ATTISTI
PIAZZA SAN FRANCE SCO ADE LLA NOS
RINA CATE
AGO
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33 AMELIE POULAIN’S BAR
the emancipation of the serfs of the city. The municipality paid for the freeing out of its own pocket.
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Sorbeteria Casiglione is without any doubt one of the best ice cream shops in Bologna. Michelangelo, Dolce Karin, Edoardo and Cremino Guglielmo are not the names of some of the most famous Bolognese nobles, but very special lavours that make this place absolutely unique. If you are not in the mood for ice cream (how could it be???) you can also have a hot chocolate or a slice of cake. Open all week, all day long.
C 1257 Liber Paradisus. A document that sanctioned
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ONI MO MAR C LIEL GUG VIA DISO PAR A
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AZZARITA PIAZZA
ROC CO SAN VIA
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DOLA
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I VIA BERT
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I O ROSS LLEGRI N VIA PE ONI
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ARI MBECC VIA ZA A ZO N LLIN BE
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AN EF
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AL
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When the sky is bright and clear from the terrace of Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco you can enjoy one of the best view over the city. Turning your head from right to let the view is complete: from the thousands of colourful litle houses to the lines of Bologna hills, from Villa Aldini to Villa Ghigi. Behind the church dedicated to the Saint, there is only one arcade to walk through, and then you reach the presbytery. There, a door leads you to the cloister painted by Carracci, and opening a second door, you will enter in a hallway that ends with a monasic complex (where Ortopedic Insitute Rizzoli is). The hallway is called del cannocchiale (of the telescope). Why? Because, thanks to an opical efect, you will almost feel like you can touch the Asinelli tower with your hand.
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O OR AV
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VIALE GIOUS
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20 HISTORICAL BAR
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BB OLD TOWN
VIA ENRICO VIA CINO DA PISTOIA
STR
29 MEET THE SAINT
Through the beauiful terracota portal of the 1400 you enter the Santurio del Corpus Domini. At irst glance it may look like any other church in Bologna: but it is not! On the let side of the church there is a door leading into a chapel (open to the public Tue-Thu-Sat-Sun 10 a.m. / 11.30 a.m. ; 4 p.m. / 5.45 p.m. To enter you must ring a bell) where the body of Santa Caterina is perfectly (or almost) preserved: unbelievable!
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IA ERIN ACCH
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ELM ELOR
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The atmosphere of Osteria il 15 is informal with classic trattoria planks and the ceiling is fully covered with old newspapers. The owners are very friendly and you’ll immediately feel at ease. The menu includes a wide variety of tradiional Italian dishes (with 20€ you can have entrance, main course and half-liter of wine) and they usually welcome the custumers ofering you a taste of home: bruscheta with beans!! Only at dinner. Closed on Sunday.
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RB ER IA
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RGATI E BELL DON VIA O
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ZZA VIA SARAGO VIA FRANCESCO ALBE
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Is this a gambling house? Or a pub for bikers from the 80’s? Nor one or the other. Don’t hesitate, explore this tavern (Osteria dello Scorpione) made of wood, sot lights and walls full of pictures of the old Bologna, alcohol of every sort and (of course) good looking women. Beer and liquor cost like every other pub, but if you’re a meat eater and happen to be there on a Monday it’s your lucky day! Mondays are dedicated to food, you pay 6€ the irst drink and eat ill you’re full; irst and second courses made on the spot. Open from Monday to Sunday at dinner. Closed on Tuesday. Closed from the 19th to the 26th of August.
30 CLASSIC PLANKS AND GOOD WINE
LA ISTA ERCO
VIALE
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CATI
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ANOLI
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SAIA
BASSI
AGUTI
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AR VIA BELLE
VIALE BATT
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VIA UGO
VIA MAL
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VIA S ANT’I
E
T ENCE
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28 UNDER THE SIGN OF THE SCORPION
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22 24 25
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VIA DEL PRATELLO
EA COSTA
LOCAL TIP: nicoletta 25 years old, musician
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I leave from Porta Saragozza and ater a long nice walk under the longest arcades in the world (3,8 km), i ind myself up on Colle delle Guardia. There i love contemplaing the landscape befor going back down. Here rises the beauiful Santuario della Madonna di San Luca. Www.sanlucabo.org
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You’re siing at Pizzeria Totò and you’re waiing for your pizza. You turn your head a moment and...oibò! You’are likely to touch the nose of someone who is siing at the next table! Then you move your chair back and you touch another one! Yes it’s crowded, very crowded, but there’s a good reason for that: a delicious pizza, for example. It is thin, but huge and economic too. Everyday at lunch and dinner. Closed on Tuesday. Closed from the 12th to the 19th of August.
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LOCAL TIP: alessandra 23 years old, student
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17 THIN AND HUGE PIZZA
IRNE RIO
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Most certainly in your life you have already felt that frustraing feeling of being undecided. Good. At the Stregate you can turn it into an exciing olfactory experience: each of the shiny boxes that cover the walls, contain a tea or an infusion with an intense lavor. East and West blend together creaing the space where you can ind the perfect combinaion: trust us none of these infusions is bewitched! Closed on Sunday. Closed from the 5th to the 25th of August. www.sanlucabo.org
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26 WITCHES’ POTIONS
I ER
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L DE TI DU
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CC SA
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Romanic tables overlooking the splendid Piazza S. Francesco, with the imposing Gothic church and trees brightening the atmosphere, there’s also a piano in the central room, what a romanic place the De Marchi! But pay atenion: the players are not musicians but happy customers of this tavern, scene of crowded and colorful drink nights. Open everyday.
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25 PLAY THE PIANO
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DI VIA RAIM ON
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RLIO
VIA JACO
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VIA NICO LO
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TEOTTI OMO M AT
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VIA DONA TO CRET I
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PIETRA
What do you expect from a wine bar? Just wine, right? Well here you can ind much more! Ater ordering a good glass of wine, excellent quality at good prices, go trough the hallway and you will ind yourself in a room full of wine barrels and wooden tables and the dear old Mickey Mouse projected on the walls. Don’t worry, you are sill sober... you are at the Alto Tasso. In this paricular canteen art lives every day and night with exhibiions, performances and concerts. Closed from the 10th to the 20th of August.
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MS
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24 MUSIC & WINE
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At Tratoria Fantoni waiters are always running, here and there but when they stop at your table they always advise you the best and we do the same: main courses are delicious. In spring and summer there are tables outside. We love Fantoni. We really do. But the quesion is: do we love it because of the running waiters or for the food? Eh eh eh... the answer is obvious... for the food! Monday-Saturday open at lunch and dinner; Monday open at lunch. Closed on Sunday.
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23 CATCH THE WAITER IF YOU CAN
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AZIONE
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VIA ALBANI
DO VIA S
ES E RA R VIA
VIA
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VIA DI SALICETO
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’ DALL’A
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Via del Pratello enclose an enire world! This was the street of the whores, criminals and taverns, a smaller city of its own. Today it coninues to be a city inside the city: the countless taverns, the bars and the mixture of genres create a unique atmosphere. A lot of folklorisic people live here, make sure you have a camera!
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IO ON NT
21 A CITY INSIDE THE CITY
VIA DI CORTICELLA
VIA ANDREA DA FAENZA
VIA ARISTOTILE FIORAVANTI
VIA NICO LO’ DALL ’A
EGRINO
ERRA
ETTO CI PR
A ILV
The acquitaintance of La contessa Melania could easily turn into the climax of an unforgetable night. Barazzo is an insituion of Bolognese night life. In the city’s dialect the name alludes to a bar from the slums, and that’s what it is indeed: with its few tables and one counter, it has been for many years an unmissable venue for those who love nights in town.
BAR TOL OM EO
BUS STATION
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At Pasta Fresca Naldi ( Naldi’s fresh pasta) the dough is rigorously rolled out by Valeria’s hands as the oldest culinary art wants. Valeria sill has a Zdaura temperament, indeed. To make it clearer: a Zdaura is a mythical igure, a stone in the collecive imaginaion, she is the tradiional housewife of past imes (you’ll recognize her in Fellini’s Amarcord). The place is small, inversely proporional to the quality of the pasta you’ll eat in its. Elected by a poll one as of the 10 reasons why to visit Bologna. Closed on Monday. Tue-Thu-Sun open at lunch. Fri and Sat open at lunch and dinner. Closed in August.
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19 REALLY GOOD PASTA
UD
Colorful, spicy , vibrant music in the air What is it? No, it’s not a kazoo, but the Macondo! Students usually hang out here, it is a must for arists and musicians. Very easy to run into a kind of concert and in paricular Sunday is the reign of jam sessions.Adding 1€ to the irst drink you can enjoy rich and tasty bufet (everyday 6.30 p.m. / 9.00 p.m.).
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GG IO RC OV E LL’A DE VIA
VIA CESARINI
VIA ARIST OTILE FIO RAVANT I
VIA PELL
MELLA
E’ CRES
VIA MAL VASIA
LOCAL TIP: Laura 30 years old, Petlover
GGI
VIA D
ONALD
Newspapers announcement: Nostalgic in his/her thiries with the Keia sill on the drawer in search of a place for intense evenings. Young uni student sill not expert of the city in search of a place where to socialize. Young girl in search of a low cost self-defence course. Immigrant with problems with Italian in search of a free language course. All these posts could ind an answer the TPO (Teatro Polivalente Occupato). This space has a long history that goes from the mid 90s, when a group of acivists took in possession of a building in Via Irnerio and here an intense theatrical, musical and poliical program began. This spirit hasn’t gone away, even if the center had to move twice to resist and in the end was reborn in the new TPO. Concerts
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10 DANCE AND THINK
CRESCE N
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C The typical thing to do on Saturday afternoon is to go back and forth (“fare le vasche”) across Via Indipendenza. This ritual is very common, you will see.
A litle basketball court always populated by street players, dogs happily running around in the garden and young people siing at the various tables and on benches: this is the frame which forms the background to the various dj sets and exhibiions that are ofered each summer at the Giardini di via Fava from 6.00 p.m. to 11.00 p.m.
VIA DE’
I
Those who live in the city have a strong passion for dogs, but sometimes they forget to pick up their dog’s presents:so watch out!
9 MULTICULTURAL APERITIVO
10 RINI
I VICIN
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There are lots of fun places for real music lovers that organize unmissible evenings, but they are far from the center and you can reach them only by taxi. Don’t worry I’ll help you with that. Lazzareto: it’s a social center self-managed that organize evenings with tekno music on Saturday. Link: lots of famous Djs come here, to enter you need the membership card (you get it directly there at 8€). Tickets don’t usually cost less than 15€. Sototeto: you need the membership card to go in, here you can listen to rap, reggae and drum n bass. Estragon: absolutely not to miss! This is the homeland of the concerts here in Bologna with performers from Italy and all around the world.
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22 JAM SESSION BAR
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C A famous Italian song from the late 90’s celebrates our passion for the Bolognese hills that surround the city. When weather starts to get warmer, the best thing to do is to get out of the city and enjoy the sun and breeze laying on a huge field of grass… possibly having a pic nic.
8
VIA CASA
O AU
C The city is almost completely empty during the period from late July to late August, so you’ll be completly free to discover the city but it also means that many of the points written in this section are not valid in this period!
nalities, we know them and love them (or hate them, depends on the points of view). During your stay in the city it could very well be you will find some: Beppe Maniglia, he stands in front of Salaborsa during the weekends, all dressed (or undressed) in leather on his Harley Davidson and playing his electric guitar. The Man with the Megaphone, not very tall, he goes around the city on his little bike yelling at the poor students and blaming them for not understanding anything about life… Pozzi Piva, he weats little and round glasses and a cap on his head. He usually is in Piazza Maggiore where he sits on his stool. It is possible to interact with him and discuss current facts. The Man with the Sax, he sits in Via Indipendenza with his loyal chow chow and the sax in his hand. La Controlla: not too tall, not too thin, blue eyes of indefinite age between 30 and 40. She wanders trough the university area, stopping occasionally to observe insistently your actions or those of your friends.
LLO PROC AC
TANARI
I
A famous legend in Bologna narrates that every student who climbs the “la Torre degli Asinelli” will never graduate from University. Another legend instead says that if you climb the same tower you will end your relationship with your boyfriend/girlfriend... but we are sure you are not superstitious!
C Bologna is full of famous (for us) and peculiar perso-
LOCAL TIP: Stephanie 24 years old, student
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AGE NTA
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TRAIN STA TION VIA PAOL O BOVI
GIOV ANN I CAS
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A complex ariculaion of spaces that makes me think of the famous labyrinth of the Minotaur. A vast repertoire of sculptures and I feel like I am in an open-air museum. Dalla (beloved singer-songwriter), Carducci (poet) and Morandi (one of the greatest painters of ‘900) now rest here and i’m not talking about a patron’s art league. Just like Byron and Dickens on their Italian grand-tour, I want to allow myself an unconvenional walk in the Cimitero monumentale della Certosa, where, among lodges, halls and porches, memory become art. Ask your hostel or the tourist oice how to get there.
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15 DIRTY EATING
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angry or be annoyed (or at least most of the people) if you stop them and ask for directions. Probably the local will not understand a lot, but he will certainly try to help with sign language, or if you are simply lucky he will answer in perfect English.
Blonde or red, “trappist” or “abbey”, lager or ale: whatever is the kind of beer you are in the mood for, go to Tana del Luppolo. Entering this historic Alehouse with original tables made of trunks of trees and with a thousand botles exposed along the shelves, ask Marco for advice. He will know which the right beer for you is choosing among 300 varieies of botled beer and six types of drat beer. You may also have a “tagliere” with selected cheese and salami. In bocca al LUPPOLO!!! (In bocca al lupo in Italian means good luck... and we like puns!). Closed on Sunday and Monday morning.
TT GUIDO
too much, as someone may say. I’ll leave a brief (but intense) list of the most used ways of saying. “Socmel”, literally means “Suck it”, used as intensifier in sentences “Bazza” means convenient, cheap. “Dargliela su” literally means “Give it up”. “Dare il tiro” means “Open the entrance door”. “Rusco” means garbage. “Bulbo” means hair “Cinno” means kid “Penna” is used to indicate a good looking girl, “you are a very good looking girl” = “sei una gran penna”. To use with caution. “Maraglio” adjective noun used to identify quite rough boys or girls that want to put themselves in a display in a showy and sometimes ignorant way.
C We are not very used to tourists, therefore nobody get
SEPPE MA
BRO
IERI
NDRO
C Our dialect and slang form are pretty explicit, maybe
alike under the arcades of this labyrinthic city! We want to give you two good suggestions: 1. Use this map 2. Forget suggestion number one and get lost!
You are on the top of Stalingrado bridge and you start looking around: on one hand you see an old tank, on the other new buildings for new oices, on the horizon the whole Salesians’ complex. It makes you wonder “Is it precisely here where the freakiest, most colorful and ecologist parade ever existed in Bologna was created?” (“Par tot Parata” 3rd Saturday of June in the odd year) Yes, it was right here. If you just go down the stairs and turn right you’ll ind Il Buco (the hole), the promoter headquarter of the parade! Here, on Friday and Saturday, funding paries usually take place (balkan beat, rock and revival) in an alcoholic and university atmosphere.
VIA GIU
VIA
NICO ZAMP
14 ANY KIND OF BEER
What if Cinderella arrived in Bologna? Her carriage would probably stop at Villa Serena: a huge garden lightened up by sot lights, a wooden gazebo adorned with lufy white pillows. A villa where you can dance, and dance maybe with your charming prince! Prices are not so cheap, but you know, we are princesses!! Pay atenion to the wooden walkway over the entrance, you could lose your ballet slipper...and break your nose too!!
VIA ALFONSO LOMBARDI
VIA GIUSEPPE CRESPI
VIA DOME
LESSA
from 6.30 p.m. to 7.30 p.m., hits the bar for an appetizer before dinner. This is called “ fare aperitivo”. The bar can have or not have an appetizer buffet and the most ordered drink is beer or spritz (Campari rosso or Aperol and white wine). Most of the people just decide to go on to the next bar…
C If it’s your first time, it may seem as the streets all look
7 WHERE A PARADE BEGINS
Like any art city Bologna has its own museum of modern art as well, the Mambo. On the irst loor you can visit the permanent exhibiion, especially focused on the arists who have woven their lives with the city. Here you can go through the arisic currents of 900 , step by step and in chronological order, unil the Museo Morandi, the most famous Bologna painter of the century. But do not stop there! Ask also for temporary exhibiions on the ground loor. Tue-Wed-Fri 12 p.m.- 6 p.m; Thu-Sat-Sun and Holyday 12 p.m.- 8 p.m. Ticket 6€, 4€ for students.
VIA A
C Anyone who finishes their work or study day, usually
Everyone in the city knows why, and after you’ve read these lines you will be one of us. It’s called the Red because of the color of the buildings, the Fat because of the typical delicious dishes, and the Learned because of the history of its old and famous university.
13 CONTEMPORARY ART
VIA R
C Bologna one big city. No, Bologna is two. It’s divided in university students on one side, and real and naturalized citizens on the other.The students spend their time dividing their university life between classrooms, lecture halls in the city, bars of the Uni area and of Pratello. The other half of the city, made of professionals and freelancers, usually hangs out in the many bars of the quadrilatero district. The two cities often meet, but rarely love each other! It’s like an up to date version of the Guelphs and Ghibellines.
C Bologna is known as the Red, the Fat and the Learned.
I’ve had enough of the Middle Ages! That ‘s what I think ater so many years in Bologna. So, you know what? I lean out of (but I won’t jump) from Il ponte di Stalingrado. Finally I can enjoy a post-industrial sight on the largest railway hub of Italy. It goes like this: under Venice’s bridges you’ll ind gondolas, in Bologna train tracks, instead!
ET
4
ANN GIOV
answer like a local! “I like Bologna because it’s not too big or too small, you never get wet if it rains or snows, thanks to the many arcades you can get everywhere, Bologna is a provincial city with a metropolitan heart, its only defect is the absence of the sea…” Oooh the seaaa!!
6
GO B
TI
VIALE
C If someone asks you what you think about Bologna,
LOCAL TIP: giorgio 28 years old, student
VIA
E
In Italy the most important sport is soccer. So shall we all go to the stadium? If you care to, you can, our soccer team goes back and forth series A and B. But to tell you the truth, Bologna’s first sport is basket. During the 90’s Bologna was called the Basket City! To live fully the Bolognese experience you should go to a basket game (for more info ask the tourist office)
It’s noon. The iny canal lows quietly, it seems to be sill: we are at Giardini del Cavaiccio, in the middle of the so called Manifatura delle Ari. Here are organized ilm projecions, dj sets, performances and plays through June and July. This makes the canal vibraing!
AM
In Bologna we have no idea since we are used to eat “tagliatelle” with Bolognese meat sauce, ragù, one of our typical dishes. The shape of a tagliatella, thicker and larger than spaghetti, is the best to pick up and taste all the ragù! Other typical dishes you must try are tortellini in broth and lasagna.… what a delight for the palate.
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LE L
C It’s Sunday afternoon. The day is dedicated to sports.
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VIA LIONELLO SPADA
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C Spaghetti alla Bolognese? What the hell are they???
SCO
VIA
BEFORE YOU START TO WALK, EXPLORE AND EXPERIENCE, THE COLORS OF OUR CITY, THERE ARE SOME THINgS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT THE ATMOSPHERES AND THE HABITS WE LIVE HERE. READ THE FEW WORDS BELOW AND FIND THEM... IT TAKES ONLY 5 MINUTES!
The towers designed by Kenzo Tange were one of the most advanced projects of the city in the 70’s. As every example of real avanguardia they caused (and cause sill today) mixed feelings: someone hates them, someone loves them. To us, as to many others photography enthusiasts, they are perfect to capture their amazing shapes blending with the sky.
FRANCE
ESCO
VIA DIONISIO CALVART
VIA DEL BATTIFERRO
I
WELCOME TO BOLOGNA!
VIA FLOR A
ARD
5
AROTTI
VIA BARBIERI GIOVANNI FRANC
12 SUMMER EXHIBITIONS + DJ SETS
A carnal experience outside the schemes of Italian gastronomy. The managers of Tratoria Pizzeria di Porta San Felice could be the protagonists of a Taranino movie, in its most grotesque angle. If you don’t choose quickly what you want to eat the owner could yell at you, be fast with your eyes and mind. Dishes are extremely generous, fried and hyper caloric. Enjoy your meal iron stomach! Closed on Monday.
VIA
VIA BARBIERI GIOVANNI FRANCESCO
ZAN VIA
LOCAL TIP: Stefano and Carlo 25 years old, cartoonists
VIA BARTOLOMEO PASS
I
In the past, the social center XM24 was the fruit market of the city, and today it sill serves this purpose every Thursday. The litle square in front of it, in fact, once a week gets illed up with numerous stands: fruit ‘n’ veg at 0km, biological wines and handmade pastries... surrounded by the newest works by the writer Blu. During all the week lessons of yoga and aerial fabric obviously for free. What more, if you want to try to build a bicycle with recycled pieces, here is the right place to express yourself! At the week-ends the space comes alive even ater midnight with punk concerts, tekno, reggae or trash evenings... Black ie is not required! No aciviies in August.
VIA
VIA
This locaion is nothing less than amazing: it was a medieval city gate and then the hub of Bologna’s ancient canals. Today it’s the headquarter of the irst LGTB associaion in Italy. Cassero cultural and research center by day, turns at night into a very cool club with electronic vibes hosing Dj sets on Wed, Fri and Sat night. Access with member card only (15€) it’s totally worth the money.
ARD
FB: USE-IT BOLOGNA WWW.BOLOGNA.USE-IT.TRAVEL
4 ANARCHIC PLACE
11 ELECTRONIC VIBES
ZAN
EDITION SUMMER 2013
VIA DANIELE MANIN
VIA
Silence. On june 27th 1980 the aircrat DC9 crashes into the Mediterranean sea. Loud noise. Could it be a missile hiing the plane during a batle between the Nato and Libia? Silence again. If you enter Il museo per la memoria di Usica let the voices from the 81 black panels talk, 81 as the vicims. The panels hang all around the remaining plane wrech, intermitent lights pulse as the hearts of those who lost their life. Fri-Sat-Sun 10 a.m.- 6 p.m.
VIA DON GIOVANNI VERITA’
VIA
3 IN THE NAME OF MEMORY
A OS
This is how the kindergartens will be in 2030. Electronic music thrown out loud inside a black narrow room, the teachers with skimpy clothes and instead of milk some good vodka tonic. Kindergarten hosts evenings of electronic and happy music on Friday and Saturday. You’ll se why in 2030 you’ll have to go at night to the kindergarten. And at its side the Redroom, a place that reminds the more famous True Blood’s Fangtasia bar, with its red walls and the litle black leather couches. Djs here usually play rock or drum and bass.
and Dj sets on Friday and Saturday evenings propose music ranging from hip hop, to rock and electronic music. The events are used to inance the projects. When you say: dance and think.
ERB
2 NOT A USUAL KINDERGARTEN
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1 URBAN RECYCLED SPACE
The red entrance of Senza Filtro looks like the spaceship of Space Invaders, the typical ‘70 shape, and its size reminds instead of the mother spaceship of Independence Day. If it let for an intergalacic journey, it would be totally self suficient and the people inside would never be bored. In this 12.000 square meters structure, 17 associaions have hardened the area, abandoned it for several years, and now there are several aciviies you can do: a skate park, a sports area, a soundstage, a tavern, a bar, a museum of lippers and a concert area. On Friday and Saturday Dj sets and concerts. You won’t believe your eyes. Open from Thursday to Sunday, 3 p.m. - 10 p.m. Closed in August.
C
1249 Battle of Fossalta. The Bologna defeated the troops of Frederick II and captured his son,King Enzo. The mansion that was his prison until his death still bears his name ( in front of Salaborsa 48 ).
C 1530 Big event of international politics.Charles V, Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, is crowned by Clement VII in Bologna. C
1555-1560 Important Painters were born in Bologna, the Carracci, two brothers (Annibale and Agostino) and their cousin (Ludovico), are painters. Their pictorial art will dominate and influence the local and national art scene of the time (many times you read their names on this map!). The most famous, Annibale, was considered the best fresco painter of his time.
C
1803 Aldini, a professor in Bologna. He went to London to try to revive a dead man through the electric shock: he didn’t succeed, but its experiment inspired Mary Shelley for her Frankenstein.
C
1895 The beginning of a new era. Marconi transmits radio waves from one point of a hill in the Bologna’s province.Tezla was probably the first to do it but Marconi was the first to understand its importance on a global scale.
C
August 2, 1980 10.25. The train station of Bologna explodes: 85 dead, 200 wounded. The darkest page in the strategy of tension.
C
2006: creative city of Music. Bologna was designated as UNESCO Creative City of Music, for its rich music tradition.
VIA DELL’INDIP ENDENZA
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REL LA VIA MA SCA
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E IPPO R VIA FIL ’ ROLA .B. DE VIA G
PIAZZA ALDROVANDI
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ARDO
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Paresse, French for “Being someone who doesn’t carry a burden”, is an ex anarchic club very diicult to ind, it’s in a closed and dark courtyard with no neon sign, the entrance is anonymous but it hides a very cool ambiance. Paresse is an ARCI club, to get in infact you need the membership card. This one in paricular is open since the 70’s and it’s changed twice management without actually changing. The interior is always the same: big old wooden tables, low lights, old anarchic posters. Go there if you prefer to relax listening to people’s voices rather than to loud music, play card games or table football with your friends and drink low cost (beer is 2.50€, wine 2€). Monday-Saturday 9 p.m. / 3 a.m.
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“Hey Gretel”, “Tell me Hansel”, “Do you see what I see?”, “Tons of candies, without even the shadow of a witch!”. The two famous brothers would be regular customers of the Drogheria della pioggia where you can relive your childhood in this paradise of candies and sweets of many colors: the best place where to stock up on sugar, making your denist happy. We want to be sincere, the style of the shop is not really a fairytale like. It is typical of the 30s instead. Closed on Sunday.
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80 THE TEMPLES OF BOLOGNA’S DJ RSA GLI
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67 EX UNIVERSITY CANTEEN
This bar is placed in an almost mythological space: the ex university canteen. Now in the morning the ex canteen is Le Scuderie, a cafeteria where everybody, from students to professors, go for a cofee break. This space changes name at night and becomes the Benivoglio Club, club that hosts concerts and Dj sets. Once a month the 50mila fesival, a vintage party with rhythms from the ities.
68 PIAZZA VERDI
Put aside your hygienic good intenions: in spring and summer Piazza Verdi becomes the meeing point for the university students that fanno l’aperiivo siing cross-legged on the pavement, an alternaive and economic soluion to take for a drink, eat and chat with friends. Sit down with them and enjoy the various tribes that orbit this square: university professors in suits and ies, punkabbesia with their dogs, mothers with strollers, hipsters and frikketoni.
69 BOLOGNA’S “SISTINE CHAPEL”
Francia, Costa and Asperini are not members of a rock band but the most important exponents of XVI century paining in Bologna; the Benivoglio family, that ruled the city in those imes, wanted them to work all together in the small Oratorio di Santa Cecilia to realize one of the greatest examples of Bologna’s pictorial art: the martyrdom of Santa Cecilia (the patron saint of musicians). It’s not a paining by Michelangelo, but we like it a lot anyway. Free entry. From 1/06 to 30/09 10 a.m. - 1 p.m.
70 BOOKS AND CAKES
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79 CANDYLAND
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In the narrow streets of the Jewish gheto we ind Camera a Sud: a litle bar dedicated to art and good wine. The colored walls will invite you to enjoy books, quotes and sweet jazz melodies. Sit your senses from morning to evening drinking a good glass of wine or eaing a piece of cake. Closed on Saturday and Sunday. Closed from the 10th to the 18th of August.
77 A BAR WITH NO NAME
78 THE LAZY
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CALDERINI
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VIA OBERDAN VIA CARTOLERI E VIA DRAPPERIE
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VIA OBERDAN
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VIA D. FICO ARA VIA CADUTI DI CEFAL OIA
ALTA VIA FOSS
PIAZZA RE ENZO
PIAZZA DEL NETTUNO
I FUSAR
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VIA CARG
IOLARI APOSA VIA VAL D’
VIA TAGLIAPIETRE
LFIORE VIA BE
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NTURI NI
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Luigi Ferdinando Marsili is a name that most of you probably won’t know. In fact most of us don’t know him either. But Bologna owes a lot to him. Ater a military career with the Hapsburgs, Marsili returned to Bologna in the early 700s and bought Palazzo Poggi where he founded the Academy of Science. Diferently from University, there students applied their knowledge to pracice. Il Museo di Palazzo Poggi (Tuesday-Sunday 10 a.m. - 1 p.m. Entrance 3€, 1€ for students; closed from 5th to 19th August) houses all the machinery and the studies of the ime: from obstetrics to opics, from anatomy to military strategy and even a nauical secion (with a splendid reproducion of Luigi XVI’s oicial ship). Outside the museum, a few steps away, you will ind the European student museum (free entrance) where out of a juke box you can pick videos of student paries from the 30s to today. Who knows, one day you may be in one of them…
NTI
Being fashionable and dressing cool usually cost a lot of money. But in this small and hidden street things work diferently. On one side you can ind La Leonarda, on the other The Zenobiland. Both shops ofer high quality second hand clothes, for men and women at knockdown prices (5€ to 30€). Suggesions, on the other hand, are free.
66 SCIENCE AND STUDENT
FILOPA
63 SECOND HAND STREET
At Cafè Belmeloro (9 a.m. / 8 p.m.) students and teachers ill the two huge and bright rooms every day. You can have very good salads and sandwiches for lunch. On Wednesday night this place changes totally its face: sandwiches are forgoten... and replaced with fresh Mojitos (6.50€)!!! The attending crowd always appreciates this evening. Closed on Saturday aternoon and Sunday. Closed from 22/7 to 2/9.
UIRICO
In summer Vicolo Bolognei is the busiest courtyard where university students (and not only) usually hang out and the reason is simple: the secret of Vicolo Bolognei’s success are live concerts (usually indie rock groups, naional and internaional). For those who love live music (and courtyards).
NTICELLI
NTEO
Open your arms. Good... this is more or less the width of Inuit, a library and a cultural associaion. While with one hand you can grasp comics from Italy, and not only, with the other
65 BE A LION ON WEDNESDAY NIGHT
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59 INDIPENDENT COMICS
61 THICK AND LARGE PIZZAS
62 SUMMER ONLY
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May you think you are in someone else’s house. Maybe in a young arist’s lot. But you’re wrong, you are in the Spazio in due. A space for selected wines, music, photography and dance. If you’re staying in the city for a few days take a look at the intense laboratories program that the place houses and maybe, just for one aternoon, try to be a tango dancer. If you don’t have a lot of ime instead pass pop in by from 7:00 p.m., aperiivi, emerging groups concerts or electronic dj sets all week long. “A cultural shelter in the centre of Bologna that feeds itself with incandescent and exciing ferments”: this is how the owners describe the space, and we totally agree. Closed in August.
39
Summer session exams wouldn’t be the same without the Giardini di San Leonardo. A green island in the town center where students, residents and mulicultural communiies come together to study, chat or try to escape the strong heat of summers in Bologna. There are no bars, nor services, but many tables, benches and trees and if you hear screaming, don’t worry! It’s the old and “wise” Mrs Anna that maintains order of our outdoor library.
NA
58 ART LOFT
VIA DE’ POETI
Via Petroni is the street of internet points, pizza and kebab take aways (almost always open) and bars where young university students hang out, especially the week-ends when the street becomes the perfect place for paries. But be careful. Respect who lives here, otherwise they could throw at you a bucket of water and you’ll ind yourself completely wet.
At Spacca Napoli pizzas are very large and thick, as the Neapolitan tradiion wants. And cheap too (a standard pizza is 6€). We strongly recommend you to have a single pizza in two, unless you are the living representaion of Homer Simpson! Monday-Friday open at lunch and dinner. Saturday and Sunday open at dinner.
P.Z A ST SA EF NT AN O O
PIAZZA MINGHETTI
LOCAL TIP: federica 24 years old, Dreamer
IE
When you enter Sumo will be the scent of incense to hit you: necklaces, bracelets, earrings of silver, brass, copper from India, Nepal, Thailand, Turkey waiing to be matched with colorful and vibrant ethnic clothing. Give a touch of happiness to your day! Closed on Sunday.
60 BABEL TOWER FELL HERE
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57 ETHINICAL JEWELS
you can take the crats on the shelves made by all promising (hopefully for them) young arists. The right place for designers, graphic designers and dreamers.
E BR TO
In the Middle Ages there were many towers all around the city (the number has never been deined certainly but they were almost one hundred). They were built during a period of cruel inner ights and the noble families of Bologna made them for their own war purposes and used them as defense and strategic assault spots. Most of them were destroyed at the beginning of the last century in order to make space for streets and buildings in the name of progress. This fate touched neither Garisenda (the leaning tower) nor Asinelli (the taller one) and they remained two undisputed symbols of the city. Asinelli tower, built in the XI century with its 96,2 meters, is the tallest Middle Ages tower of the world. It is possible to reach its top... if you’re not supersiious (See Act like a Local paragraph). Everyday 9 a.m. - 6 p.m. Entrance 3€.
OT
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55 INTERNATIONAL BOOKS
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Have you just inished reading a book? Did you forget your travel guide before leaving? Don’t lose your heart, at Feltrinelli Internaional you will ind what you need. Inside there are countless books and guides in many diferent languages. And on the second loor a lounge area where you can relax and choose the book that more suits you. Closed on Sunday.
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The walls, the shelves and even the bartender will remind you of Frank Zappa. For breakfast you can have some of the best sweets and savory pastries of Bologna. Every morning you can even ind on the litle terrace a varied choice of news-papers and Frank in person will serve you. At aperiivo ime young students ill up this eccentric and out of ime space where good food and funky music live up the atmosphere. Don’t miss the litle bathroom at the end of the bar: lights of every color and mirrors of every shape will control you in every most inimate moment at the Bar Cicileo. Mon-Sat, 7 a.m. - 1 a.m. Closed from the 10th to the 31st of August.
At the Bar Senza nome the orders are taken with the LIS (= sing language) or by choosing one of the ickets on the board of the Angolo del Cocciuto. For a cofe or an aperiivo not really convenional the big wooden room is open all year long, from breakfast to dinner ime, while exhibiions, concerts and shows, to see more than to listen, are held almost every day in the litle courtyard or in the litle square in summer. 30% discount if you order with sign language. Closed on Sunday.
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The Quadrilatero (bounded by Via degli Oreici, Via Clavature and Via Casiglione) is the oldest part of the city centre. Here most of the daily aciviies of the town used to take place: a strategic meeing point for culture, trades and economic powers. Even today you can sill breathe this atmosphere, thanks to the shops and taverns that bring to your mind lavors and smells typical of the region.
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Sala Borsa (Stock Exchange), bustling with people and culture, is inside a structure that reminds a Liberty railway staion.
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In the last thirty years Piazza Maggiore became a cinema under the stars: a cloth of seats cover the crescentone, the raised part of the square, and a huge screen is placed in front of the Palazzo De Banchi, and it’s so huge that it hides it completely. For who loves cinema and wants to enjoy every scene’s paricular… the only defect is that the movies are usually projected in Italian (with subitles). From 19/6 to 30/7.
Just in the area of the old market, in Vicolo Ranocchi, hidden and unmarked, there is the Osteria del Sole. A real jump into the past, it seems to be back in the days of the warm and cozy inns in Bologna. Here you can meet mainly very nice and drunken over 60s, wearing old style jackets and typical cloth cap, but they’re not the only customers: many students go there to celebrate graduaions, birthdays or just have a good aperiivo in the main room or in the small courtyard. If you want you can bring food from outside and inside have the wine you like the most, a glass of Chiani is only 2€! Closed on Sunday.
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Chief editor: Alessandro Baschieri Graphic layout and illustrations: Stefano Di Bernardo, Carlo Moschettoni Group of work: Michela Beni, Federica Di Mauro, Jacqueline Luna, Jacopo Simi, Laura Pascucci, Alessandra Urzi.
What do you expect you’ll ind within the Museo Civico Archeologico? If your answer is ancient objects, the answer is right! Here you will walk between Etruscan tools (pre-Roman populaion which lourished in central Italy, whose origins are sill shrouded in mystery, and of which Bologna was one of the most important urban centers), Greek amphorae, Roman statues and a large Egypian collecion. And if suddenly you’ll have a dejà vu... don’t worry! It’s only a copy of the Neptune statue that watches over the remains of the ancient civilizaion housed in the museum. Tuesday-Friday 9 a.m. - 3 p.m. Saturday-Sunday 10 a.m. - 6.30 p.m. Entrance 5€, 3€ for students.
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The map has been conceived and created within the space of the Senza Filtro 1 . Nobody paid to be registered on this map. The choice of location was made by young people living in Bologna. We did our best to create something nice and attractive, but if we did some mistakes or if you think we miss something, please send us a mail to bologna@use-it.travel. This publication reflects only the point of view and the opinion of the authors. The supporters of the the project cannot be held responsible for any type of misuse of the information contained in it.
47) INDIANA JONES WOULD CERTAINLY LOVE IT
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Use-it Europe is an internaional network costantly growing, so if you think your city need ones of this maps go to www.use-it.travel and have a look at the secion “I want to start may own Use-it”.
Entering the XVI century courtyard and turning your head, you can suddenly see a coat of arms, and then two and then three... we suggest you to stop couning because you could have the same experience of a sleepless trying to count the sheep to fall asleep!Here, in fact, there are 7000 preserved crest of the student corporitas (associaion) and professor of the ime when the legacy Archiginnasio was the seat of the University (from 1563 to 1803). On the irst loor you can visit the beauiful anatomical theater, built enirely of wood, where the professor of Medicine held their classes in anatomy and the Chamber of Stabat Mater, lovely classrooms once a bill and now the university auditorium hall of reading. Monday-Friday 9 a.m. - 6.45 p.m. Saturday 9 a.m. - 1.45 p.m. Free Entrance.
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A deconsecrated church usually makes you think of a ruin, a stage for black masses with the remains of a cruciix, maybe upside down. This is not the case of San Colombano, a VI century church although it doesn’t belong to Chrisianity anymore, it is a real gem for its beauty. In the oratory on the irst loor, you will ind frescoes made by the apprenices of the Carraccis, where each of them tried to impress the teacher (this is reason why the pictorial cycle was called the glorious race). What more: in every corner of the building there are ancient musical instruments that thanks to the students of the Conservatorio di Bologna, somehow and then, come back to life (for info ask at the entrance or the Tourist Oice). Tuesday- Sunday 10 a.m. - 1 p.m. / 3 p.m- 7 p.m. Entrance 8€, 5€ for students, with the same icket you can visit Museo della Storia and Palazzo Fava. Closed from 18/06 to 20/09.
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This is the descripion of what was meant to be the largest church in all Chrisianity, the work of the Basilica of San Petronio began in 1390 at the behest of the council of the Elders and ended... actually... and never inished. The project was abandoned when Bologna was subject to the papal power, which assigned this special status to San Pietro. Today it is sill under restoraion: but inside you can see its huge Gothic structure and, perhaps, you can regulate your watch with the ime dictated by the largest exising sundial (67 meters length), built in the XV century, as well as the ancient watchmakers of Bologna used to do. Everyday 7.45 a.m. 1.45 p.m. / 3 p.m. - 8.30 p.m.
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you’ll ind high quality cuisine typical of Bologna and jazz concerts too. Tasing delicious tagliatelle and inspired by music you could so express all your feelings to your beloved person. Maybe the bill will be a litle bit expensive, but.... there’s no price for true love!!!
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Here you are... I know you. You are the typical party man/girl that wherever you go you can’t miss a single party and you usually end your holiday without having seen a single street of the city. But when you will be back home you will have to tell something to your parents, hopefully something diferent from a crazy night of clubbing. Don’t worry, be happy! A visit at the Museo della Storia is what you need: historical reconstrucions, mulimedia theater and wax statues, hosted in the majesic Palazzo Pepoli, will tell you everything you need to know about Bologna! In few words 2000 years of history in your hands! And a last thing: it is worth to go see this museum even if it is a sunny day. Tuesday-Sunday 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. Entrance 10€, 5€ for students. Daily icket also includes admission to Palazzo Fava 75 and San Colombano. 74
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The statue of Pope Gregory XIII (and not of San Petronio, patron-saint of the city, like most of people think) welcomes you to Palazzo D’Accursio, the center of power since Medieval imes. Go up the large staircase, which the knights used to climb on their horses (close your eyes and you may sill hear their hoofs). Now you can start exploring the various halls, but be aware that not every one is always open to the public. On the second loor the Collezioni Comunali d’Arte, with works that go from the XII to the XIX century and the entry is free. When you’ll get there, overwhelmed by all this art you will feel Stendhal Syndrome. Don’t worry you can rest on the stone benches downstairs. Flintstones style. Monday-Friday 9 a.m. - 6 p.m. / Sat-Sun 10 a.m. - 6.30 p.m.
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Unforgetable jump in the past through treasures of all kind. You can have fun if you are a passionate of anique photos or porcelain statues. Welcome to the anique market of Piazza Santo Stefano: an harmonious balance of past and present in one of the most beauiful squares of Bologna. But be careful! Don’t wear uncomfortable shoes or with extreme high heels, if not, you risk a bad fall with a not very comfortable landing on the sampietrini (cubic stones which cover the square pavement). Every second Saturday and Sunday of the month except January, July and August.
. Go behind the Netuno, next to Sala Borsa 48 and you’ll ind out why we call him the giant: it’s not only because it’s tall...
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Do you know what a Matrioska is? It’s a wooden Russian doll that hides other smaller dolls within itself. The Basilica of Santo Stefano has more or less the same logic. Every door hides rooms and churches from other eras (precisely four). In the VI century, Petronio now patron-saint of the city, had a reproducion of the sacred Jerusalem built on top of a temple devoted to the goddess Isis. The structure was then inished in the 11th century. Begin your journey along ten centuries of history, in this mysic labyrinth. Mon- Sun 9 a.m. - 12.30 p.m. / 3.30 p.m. - 6.30 p.m. Free entrance.
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Tourist Office:open every day from 9:00 am to 7:00 pm Website: www.bolognawelcome.it. Bologna Welcome Card:The card has a validity of 48 hours and a cost of 20€. With this card you can freely enter to Museo della Storia 45 , San Colombano 75 , MAMBO and Museo Morandi 13 , Museo Civico Archeologico 47 , Museo Civico Medioevale 73 and other museums in the city. It ensures free guided tour in the city centre or BLQ shuttle BUS from/to Guglielmo Marconi Airport or bus daily ticket and special offers and discounts at restaurants, spas and shops. T-Days: every Saturday and Sunday and every public holiday Area T (Via Rizzoli, Via Ugo Bassi and Via Indipendenza) is open only to pedestrians and bicycles. For more information www.tdays.bo.it. Where to sleep: The only hostel in the city, the Hostel San Sisto, is about 6 km from the center. The cost range from 16,50€ for one bed. Before 8 p.m. take bus 93 in Via Irnerio direction Granarolo-Baricella-Mondonuovo and get off at the bus stop S.Sisto. From 8.40 p.m. to 00.40 am take bus 21 / b in front of the train station (go under the porches in front) S.Sisto direction and get off at the stop S.Sisto. The bed and breakfast set in the map legend are priced per bed between 20€ and 30€.
Restaurants for lunch are usually open from 12:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m, for dinner from 7.30 p.m. to 11:00 pm. Bus: tickets can be purchased in tobacco shops (the ones with a white T in the shop sign). Ticket types and prices: Single ticket 1.20€, valid for 60 minutes from the time of validation on board. Day ticket: 4.5€, valid for 24 hours from time of validation on board; City Pass: 11€ (10-ride ticket) It’s possible to buy the ticket on board, the cost is 1.5€ and is valid for 75 minutes. BLQ (AirportBus): Tickets cost 6€, the main bus stop in town is at the train station. Taxi: The main taxi station is located in Via Rizzoli, at the corner of Via Archiginnasio. The telephone number to order or reserve a taxi is: 051372727. Rates: 1.15€ per kilometer. From Monday to Friday from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.. The initial fee is 3€. On Saturday and Sunday from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. The initial fee is 4.70€. The night (10 p.m.-6 am) initial fee is 5.60€. Emergency numbers (free of charge) 118 Ambulance 112 Carabinieri 113 Police 115 Fireman
Emilia-Romagna. A region that includes two diferent regions, each one with its own history and culture. This happens obviously even in the culinary ield: the Emilian tradiion is characterized by the tagliatelle, tortellini and boiled meat. In the Romagna one instead there are cappellei, castrato and piadina. Piadina is made with water, lour and lard and it’s usally eaten with cheese and salami. At La tua Piadina you can taste it in all its types of dough and you can ill it with everything you want (ketchup is absolutely forbidden). Monday-Friday open at lunch and dinner. Saturday open at lunch. Sunday open at dinner.
LOCAL TIP: jacqueline 20 years old, student
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Cafeteria Maurizio is a microscopic bar covered with travel souvenirs and a Jazz atmosphere all around, all in a space of a single room apartment with a small stage where more or less well-known arists perform on Friday and Saturday night ( 7 p.m.-10 p.m.; free entry). At irst glance it looks like one of the many convenional bars under the city arcades, but in reality it is a meeing hub for students who can be found chaing about philosophy and poliics in the corners and doorways outside the bar while trying to fascinate each other forgeting about their next and too soon exam. Closed on Sunday.
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They represent the lives of Giasone, Medea and Enea. In Italian we would say… walls that speak!!! Tue-Sun 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. Entrance 8€, 5€ for students. Daily icket also includes admission to Museo della Storia 75 and San Colombano 45 . Closed from 18/06 to 20/09.
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41 STUDENT, SPRITZ AND CONCERTS
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VILLA GRIFFONE, MARCONI’S MAUSOLEUM The young Guglielmo used to spend his summers in this house owned by the Marconi family situated between the hills of Bologna when, in 1895, only twenty years old, is started the first wireless telegraph signal. Today the Marconi’s Mausoleo makes you to retrace the steps of this thrilling and wonderfull experiment that completly revolutionized the world of communications. For information on how to reach the Mausoleum ask the Tourist Office.
You know why Bologna has a round plan? Because once the city was rounded by defensive walls. The sill visible ones where built at the end of the Roman Empire, in the V century b.c., to defend the city from the barbaric invasions. These obviously had doors from wich you enter the city. Between the ten doors sill intact we suggest you to go visit Porta Maggiore, that sill keeps a piece of the original walls. If you read these lines and you went to see the door, we are sure that you will be curious to go see the other ones as well.
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DUCATI MUSEUM In Borgo Panigale area there is the Ducati museum dedicated to the homonymous eponymous Italian company. Across seven thematic rooms you will discover the company history through videos, vintage memorabilia and the real protagonists in person ... The race bikes roaring! Visits by appointment only ask for info at the Tourist Office.
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C ICE CREAM MUSEUM CARPIGIANI Ice cream: one of the reasons why Italy is known in the whole world. Have you ever asked yourself what is the history and methods of production of this gastronomic excellence? The museum of ice cream will answer all your questions through didactic laboratories, multimedia and old machines. It is worth going there even only to take a look..It is the only one in the world. For more information ask at the tourist office or at the hostel!
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C DOZZA Dozza is a beautiful medieval town in which the survival of the historical identity of the country merges with the latest developments in the Street Art. Immersed in the Tuscan-Emilian Appenines, Dozza is house of a Biennale Art Festival opened since 1960, in which artists are invited to express themselves on the walls and spaces for people, in an ongoing redefinition of the idea of public space. More than ninety works make today Dozza a fascinating gallery of art “en plein air”. For information on how to reach the village ask the Tourist Office.
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This club has no signs and and few people know it, but the few lucky ones always return (like the stars atracted to black holes) in this small, spartan, dark but certainly folk place. At Vereda the speciality is sangria; at weekends you ind DJ sets and concerts (don’t expect Paul Kalkbrenner at the mixer!).
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Let your eyes run along the largest pedestrian square, lined by the proile of the romanesque church (XI century), by the Gothic tombs of two of the irst University magisters and the statue of San Domenico. You can’t absolutely miss the gleaming marble tomb inside the Basilica of San Domenico, that hosts the remains of the saint (even Michelangelo took part in the realizaion of it!). However we prefer to go in the back side of the square, in the small amphitheater to read a book or to exchange sweet efusions while dogs and their owners look at you absently in the shade of a century-old tree. 9.30 a.m- 12.30 p.m. / 3.30 p.m. - 7.30 p.m. Free entrance.
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38 WHERE THE FAMOUS PEOPLE REST
As you step inside the biggest library in town, besides consuling books, videos, cds, reading foreign newspapers, you can take a walk over the remains of the old Roman Bologna, or jump into the future visiing the exhibiions of the Urban Center on the second loor. So, what are you waiing for? Catch a train and start your trip. Tuesday-Friday 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. Saturday 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. August: Tuesday-Friday 3 p.m. - 8 p.m.; closed from 10th to 16th.
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This charming restaurant is deinitely a must for us. In Osteria dell’Orsa you can enjoy a wide variety of typical italian dishes and taste some good wine without spending a fortune. (15€ half-liter wine, main course and a cofee). Inside large wooden tables, outside a litle more inimate paio, open in spring and summer. Ideal for dinners with friends, one of their specialies is called the pot of friendship. It’s open all day long. All week.
72 GREEK TAKE AWAY
For a quick and tasty lunch. Gyrosteria serves Greek food even if it is run by Italians who learned the culinary secrets of the Hellenic tradiion. The Pyta gyros is cheap and light. Here you can also make the mark of your passing through the city: the walls of the small room are hung with pictures of the heroes who ate more Pyta gyros consecuively. If you want to win a Guinness you’ll have to eat more than eleven (if you achieve this goal please send us a picture)! TuesdaySaturday open at lunch and dinner. Sunday open at dinner.
73 THE GOLD OF THE MIDDLE AGES
Bologna lived its golden age during the Middle Ages (it was the ith most populous city in Europe). The Museo Civico Medievale shows us this period through a huge collecion of objects of any kind, origin and dimension. Weapons, armors, Islamic and extra-European heirlooms, illuminated manuscripts in miniature, Italian and French ivories and the tombs of the doctors of the ancient University populate the museum halls. Tuesday- Friday 9 a.m. - 3 p.m. / SaturdaySunday-Holidays 10 a.m. - 6.30 p.m. Entrance 5€, 3€ for students.
74 BOLOGNESE ELEGANCE
Don’t be tricked by the red chandelier in the entrance : this place isn’t kitsch at all. It is evidence the elegance of Bologna instead. Palazzo Fava houses on the irst loor a permanent collecion of contemporary art that encloses works of famous arists as De Chirico, Depero e Balla and on the upper loors temporary exhibiions. The paining cycles on the irst loor, belonging to the Carraccis, are from the XVI century.
87 TWO BARS YOU CAN’T MISS
A bar? A library? A library and a bar? It’s hard to deine. A literary cofee? Maybe. Without any doubt Modo Infoshop is a unique place in Bologna, known for its simplicity. On one side there is a library dedicated to those who like art, comics and alternaive literature. On the other side a place where you can drink cocktails and eat delicious sandwiches. Then you can sit on benches that will remind you of the ones you had at school, chat and listen to some good music. One of the best places of the arisic scenary of Bologna. Next to it there is L’Orica, wine bar specialized in selected biological italian wines, that you can drink in the big internal room full of works of art.
LOCAL TIP: antonio 33 years old, videomaker
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On the 11th of March 1977 the city lived one of its most turbulent days: in fact there was a real urban guerrilla with on one hand university students of the “extraparliamentary let” and on the other the police. Molotov were thrown, window shops were broken and bullets were shot. One of these hit a student and the holes protected by the glass sheet remind us of this sad event.
89 ARABIC FOOD
Let yourself be guided by a gentleman of other imes to choose the best from the menu. He will advise you, then you could sit and enjoy this small but comfortable restaurant with a Middle East atmosphere. Here prices are cheap (3€ to 10€) and the meat ofered for the kebab is prepared according to the Islamic tradiion in the family’s laboratory. If you’re ired and you’re nearby the cofee here costs only 50 cents.
90 BOLOGNA NATIONAL GALLERY
The thirty rooms of the Pinacoteca Nazionale guard painings that show the various colors that the city has taken over the centuries. Arists of naional fame (like Gioto) alternate with local ones (Vitale da Bologna, Simone dei Crociissi): a must for lovers of paining and art in general. The same building houses the Academy of Fine Arts (entrance at the number 54): if you enter you will see young arists creaing and in the hallways their own works exhibited. You never know, maybe you are admiring works of some world famous arist of the future. Or maybe not. Tue-Wed 9 a.m. - 1.30 p.m.; Thu 9 a.m. - 7 p.m.; Fri-Sat 2 p.m. - 7 p.m.
91 FOOD FOR STUDENTS
If you suddenly get hungry because you didn’t have any ime to have lunch and you are in the Zamboni area, why don’t you eat at the Mensa Universitaria? It is the cheapest place to go, you will spend certainly less than in a restaurant: with 8€ you can have irst and second course, side dish and fruit. No University card is required to get in. Inside there is a pizza oven and a bar. Monday-Saturday open at lunch. Closed from the of 29/07 to 2/09. LOCAL TIP: mauro 24 years old, nurse
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If we took all discs and CDs of this store we could easily build another Torre degli Asinelli. But we prefer to let them comfortably rest at the Disco D’oro. A long-living shop, founded more than 30 years ago. There Bologna’s DJs choose their records. If you are a Dj too you have absolutely to come here! Closed on Sunday.
If your passion for dinosaurs has never stopped then you have to go to the Museo Cappellini (in Via Zamboni 63). Here you can take a picture of the skeleton of one of the largest animals ever appeared on the planet: the Diplodocus!
81 I LOVE SHOPPING
93 WAX MUSEUM
Pracically the shopping street. But it’s even more. This is the street of the “vasche”, the swimming lanes. In fact in Bologna when you say to lane we mean going up and down a street several imes just like you as if you were swimming. And this is what you do in Via Indipendenza on Saturday and Sunday aternoon. Everybody loves doing it.
LOCAL TIP: jacopo 23 years old, student
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Ah ... How many girls I brought in front of this window in the evening, watching the canal of the Moline, passing by the houses of the historic center of Bologna, trying to snatch a kiss or a sigh. Of course, gondolas do not pass and it’s not like the Taj Mahal at sunset, but you have to be saisied with what you have!
83 THE GIRAFFES
If you think you are going to the zoo you’re wrong. You are at the Girafe. Open the cages of your imaginaion, unleash your most exuberant inner essence, let emerge your ancestral and animal idenity, get lost among the thousands of the most creaive asymmetric forms of clothing and accessories of Bologna. In this small handmade bouique all creaions are made by Valeria: ask her the meaning of all those girafes!
84 GAY-FRIENDLY
Baratolo is a cozy and gay-friendly bar open from breakfast to aperiivo ime that hosts small events in defense of gender rights oten cooperaing with other cultural associaions.
85 2x1 COCKTAIL
Every student staring University life went to Corto Maltese at least once. Could that be for 2x1 ofer on every cocktail every day from 9.30 p.m. to 12.00 a.m.? Probably yes! Hot spots are on Monday with the Erasmus night and Sunday with hip hop vibes. Open every day.
86 JAZZ AND FOOD If you have already met a girl or a boy during your trip, and you want to propose to her/him all your love, probably the Canina Benivoglio would be the right place to do it. Here
The most famous wax museums like those in London and Berlin contain reproducions of the notorius jet set personaliies.We also have a wax museum: the Museo delle Cere Anatomiche, but the theme is less frivolous. On the second loor of the building in Via Irnerio 48 there are, instead, reproducions of normal and malformed anatomical waxes (like, for example, Siamese twins or faces eaten by the plague and a lot more) made between the 18th and 19th century for educaional purposes.
94 GARDENS OF VIA FILIPPO RE
Concerts, concerts and sill concerts!! All under the starry sky (if it’s not raining...): that’s what happens at Giardini di Via Filippo Re from late June to late July. If it isn’t clear: there are concerts (rock, indie rock, folk, Italian groups)!! And most of them are for free, beginning at 9:00 p.m, from the 13/6 to 27/7 .
95 IRNERIO STYLE
“ANDIAMO IN IRNERIO?” (let’s go to Irnerio). This is what young people who love alternaive electronic music, with baggy clothes, hat worn sideways and dog with them, say at twilight when they go towards the “Crystal” or the “Eden”. They will go back home late at night ater drinking lots of shots (at 1€).
96 COLORFUL MARKET
Piazza VIII Agosto. Sunday night. Mountains of waste. Hurricane Katrina teared down Bologna? Has a rave just inished? No..you’ve lost two days (Friday and Saturday) of the Mercato della Piazzola! Here you can truly ind everything you are looking for: from smoking accessories to household tools, from plaform shoes to grandmother style underwear. A prety dress or a pair of jeans. You’re an expert in diving among clothes? You’re the genius of the “best-price-grabbing”? Well then you must necessarily pass through the stalls of used clothes, vintage or not. And even if you don’t buy anything, you will sill be ired but happy to have taken a ride in one of the “historical” locaions of Bologna!
97 THE EMPIRE OF COMICS
500 square meters of exhibiion. 15,000 books on display. These are the numbers of Alessandro Distribuzioni comics shop, one of the largest in Italy (and perhaps in Europe). In this place you can become a child again, and almost certainly, ind the comic for you. Closed on Sunday.