Carmen De La Paz's You Can Do It! Magazine Winter 2012 by Carmen De La Paz

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YouCanD It! WINTER 2012

CREATE IT. BUILD IT. LOVE IT. MAGAZINE

Need A Stencil In A Hurry? Creative Thinking & Blue Tape Will Come In Handy

Wintertime Garden Lighting How To Use Recycled Cans To Create Luminarias

Empower tool #1

Drill the

LEARN HOW TO SELECT THE RIGHT ONE FOR THE JOB

SAFETY FASHION Looking Cool While You Get The Job Done!

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De La Paz

YouCanD It! WINTER 2012

CREATE IT. BUILD IT. LOVE IT. MAGAZINE

POWER TOOL SERIES

“Em”Power Tools Discover the true meaning of “Empowerment thru Power tools!”

RECYCLING

Illuminating Garden Art “HOW TO” RECIPE INCLUDED on PAGE 21

18 IN A PINCH:

Create A Stencil With Blue Tape “HOW TO” RECIPE INCLUDED on PAGE 27

WINTER 2012

ANATOMY OF A DRILL

FIRST IN THE POWER TOOL SERIES:

To Drill Or Not To Drill...That Is The Question!

SAFETY

Safety In High-Fashion

CARMEN’S BITS:

4 Painting 101

How Holiday Traditions Became Lifelong Passions “HOW TO” RECIPES INCLUDED on PAGES 7-8

PUBLISHER Jerri Hemsworth jerrih@hmhmedia.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Carmen De La Paz carmend@hmhmedia.com EDITORIAL CONSULTANT Bennett Root, Jr. benr@hmhmedia.com CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER Brian Hemsworth brianh@hmhmedia.com ASSISTANT EDITOR Michelle Hurlbut CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Steve Higginson and Billy Hill EDITOR IAL /A DVE RTIS I N G O FFIC E S Carmen De La Paz’s You Can Do It! Magazine 6133 Fallbrook Avenue Woodland Hills, CA 91364 P: 818/713/1678 www.youcandoitmag.com

Carmen De La Paz’s You Can Do It! Magazine™ is published by HMH Media Inc., 6133 Fallbrook Avenue, Woodland Hills, CA 91367. Volume 1, No. 2 Copyright ©2012 by CDLP Enterprises Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Acceptance of advertising or sponsorship in Carmen De La Paz’s You Can Do it! Magazine in no way constitutes approval or endorsement by HMH Media Inc. of products or services advertised. Carmen De La Paz’s You Can Do it! Magazine and HMH Media Inc. reserve the right to reject any advertising. Opinions expressed by authors are their own and not necessarily those of Carmen De La Paz’s You Can Do it! Magazine or HMH Media Inc. Carmen De La Paz’s You Can Do it! Magazine reserves the right to edit all contributions for clarity and length, as well as to reject any material submitted. Not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts. This periodical’s name and logo along with the various titles and headings therein, are trademarks of CDLP Enterprises Inc. and HMH Media Inc. PRODUCED IN U.S.A.

carmen’s bits

his time of year evokes so many memories for me. It prompts me to relive times that I most cherish in my life. I think we all agree that no matter where you are from or what language you speak, the holiday season is full of family, food, laughter and giving on many levels and in many ways. Growing up, I had the pleasure of celebrating Thanksgiving and Christmas in different places— Puerto Rico with palm trees, grandparents, aunts uncles and cousins; in snowy Southeastern Wisconsin with our acquired circle of friends consisting of other Puerto Rican, Mexican, Venezuelan, Cuban, Costa Rican, German, Polish, and Italian families who had found their way to the cold winters of the midwest. I even recall a holiday or two in Miami, Florida, with my parent’s Cuban compadres. Looking back, the most wonderful thing about every holiday season was how strongly my parents and every other family (not only Latinos) kept cultural traditions alive. They were all willing and wanting to share by intermingling music, food and traditions. You can imagine a Christmas in Waukesha, Wisc., with all these nationalities (I’m sure I missed a few) explaining and sharing through thick accents and limited English. I was often a translator and ALWAYS in the middle of all the food, music and holiday decor! It is only now (as I write this article) that I fully recognize how the things I call my deepest passions today—creating with my hands, food and music—were introduced, sparked and explored by the experiences my parents and all our extended families exposed me to. FOOD: As far back as I can remember, I was

WINTER 2012

How Holiday Traditions Became Lifelong Passions always part of the kitchen process—grinding, cutting, stirring, cleaning. The older I got, the more intricate my tasks became. To this day, I am still one of the best at folding and string-tying Pastels in our yearly tradition of making one of Puerto Rico’s most cherished and sought after dishes. To this day, I look forward every year to the hours and days spent with my Mom making Pasteles, Arroz con Dulce, Tembleque, Dulce de Coco, Flan (see my recipe on page 7), Surrullitos, Asopao de Pollo, and on and on. There is always a backdrop of music that is full of the traditional rhythms and words of everything from American Christmas Carols to Puerto Rican Aguinaldos sung traditionally at Parrandas. MUSIC: We often gauged our Christmas by how good the music was; how much we danced, how much we sang, how many Parrandas were done. Parrandas are a lively Puerto Rican version of Christmas Caroling—with a few different rules: 1.) Parrandas are done only between the hours of midnight and 6 a.m. 2.) You don’t warn the family you are going to invade. But…no worries because of rule number 3.) Puerto Rican families are always hoping they’d be honored with the Parranda party. So they always have snacks and beverages set aside and are ready to host—just in case. 4.) Food and alcohol play an important part in the festivities—responsibly of course. My uncle Peter (my mother’s youngest brother and my favorite uncle) was always at the center of the celebration; singing, playing the guitar and moving the evening along with jokes. I was ALWAYS at his side, playing the maracas, rhythm

sticks, even the guiro and keeping good rhythm. By the time I was seven, I knew I wanted to play the guitar. I asked him to teach me, and my Uncle Peter took the task very seriously. I obsessed over my lessons, and by the next Christmas, I was playing the guitar right alongside him. The year after that, I started playing violin and the traditional Puerto Rican lead stringed instrument similar to the guitar, the cuatro. The next obvious step for me was singing. Thus, throughout the holiday seasons, music became a permanent and important part of my life. Thank you to my uncle for taking me seriously, and thank you to my parents for buying, without hesitation, every instrument I wanted. CREATING WITH MY HANDS: For as far back as I can remember, my mother was always putting a crayon, paintbrush or pencil in my hand. There were always paints, papers, scissors, buckets of ribbon, and buttons in my home. We were encouraged and accompanied with our creative explorations. My mom was always making something: crochet, ceramics, cake decorating…and my brother and I always got to play with whatever she was doing or making. My ALL TIME favorite project, to this day, is probably one of the most intricate crafting projects I’ve ever tackled. It was given to me by my mom when I was about 10. I distinctly remember one day in the Fall, I was sitting at one end of our dining room table when my mom came in with a rather large box. It was two-feet long by one-foot wide and about fourinches deep. The outside had colorful images of the characters sung about in “The 12 Days of Christmas.” You know, “Seven-Swans-A-Swimming, Six-Geese-A-Laying, Fiiiiivve-Gold-Rings!” The image of the contents inside the box is still fresh and clear to me as the day I opened it. It is permanently imprinted on my brain. My eyes were first drawn to the colorful little plastic tubs of paint attached by a rubber band to three different artists brushes. One handle was red, one was royal blue and the other was black. I then focused on what was in the bottom of the box—1/8"-thin sheets of what appeared to be wood with black printed lines, like the outlines in a coloring book. The images printed in black lines were all the same characters pictured on the front of the box. The only difference was that these weren’t painted. Now I know my mom’s ulterior motive at the

Arroz con Dulce is one of my all-time favorite traditional Puerto Rican desserts.

Flan (above) and Arroz con Gandules (below) are always on our holiday table.

carmen’s bits time; “Keep her busy for a LONG time.” It worked, but it also did so much more! For the next two months, the end of our dining table became my little paint department. As long as I put it all away in-between paint sessions, I could paint there as much as I liked. I don’t know how many hours I spent painstakingly painting

counted. The Saturday (three days) before Christmas, my family and I got home late from some Christmas party. I quickly got into my PJs and headed straight for the dining room. I went about setting up my paint area at the end of the table. I wasn’t sure how painting at 1 a.m. was going to go over with my parents. My father was already in bed, and my mom walked past me on her way to their bedroom. When she saw me setting up, she said, “Pero, muchacha que tu haces? / But girl, what are you doing?” I thought for sure I was going to get the axe on the set up. I told her, “I want to get these done by Christmas. I haven’t worked this hard for this long in order to not finish them in time.” She looked at me through sleepy eyes. “Tu estas locas / You are crazy,” and to my surprise, “No te quedes muy tarde / Don’t stay up too late.” She kept walking past me to her bedroom. Yes!! I was happy, excited and grateful. I had a cool mom! However, I am not sure my mom knows that I stayed up ’til about 5 that morning. I do know, I had a great time painting into the wee hours of the morning. Growing up, my mother was always putting a crayon, AND I got all 12 days painted and hung paintbrush or pencil in my hand. in time Christmas Eve dinner. Throughout the two months I spent with the acrylic paint-kit provided. A little glass painting those “12 Days of Christmas” wooden food jar with water, a couple of paper napkins and ornaments, I learned patience, I learned perseverI was gone. I painted my way from the “Partridge ance, and I learned how amazing it feels to see in a Pear Tree” clear through to the “12-Drummers- something through to completion. I’ve got to Drumming” and all the 10 days of Christmas in thank my mom for letting me explore what it’s like between. I spent weekends and hours after school to go the extra mile to get it done AND enjoy it! It painting those little wood ornaments. I set a per- was simply another way that I learned about the sonal goal to get them done by Christmas and concept “You Can Do It!” have them all hanging on our Christmas tree. I was I encourage you to explore the holidays and winfocused and diligent for weeks on end—develop- tertime through lots of food, great music, creativity, ing a steady hand with a paintbrush while staying patience and perseverance. It serves us in and out of crisply inside the lines. Rushing certainly didn’t fit the holiday season. And yes, “You Can Do It, too!” into the equation of doing this project. The last week before the big holiday and after all the time spent bringing colorful life to those two silly turtle doves, I wasn’t sure I was going to make it by Xmas. The pressure was on and every minute

Carmen

WINTER 2012

DESSERTS

SKILL: Easy

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Carmen’s Flan

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tinue until all the ingredients are fluffy with air. The more air you get into the mix, the lighter the flan will be. 3. Add 2 Teaspoons Vanilla Extract. Whisk some more… Part Three: Put it all together Once Flan Mixture, has been whisked well, pour into the pot with the now cooled and caramelized sugar coating.

Ingredients Caramel 2 Cups of White Sugar Flan 5 Large Eggs 1 Can (8 oz.) Sweet & Condensed Milk 2 Cans (12 oz. ea) Evaporated Milk 2 Teaspoons of Vanilla Extract

Baking Process Part One: Carmelized Sugar 1. In a Caldero or Dutch Oven Pot (a pot that is twice as wide as it is deep), heat 2 cups of white sugar at medium heat. As the sugar melts, it will caramelize, turning a golden brown. You want to be very careful to not burn the sugar. Yes, it will be a golden brown but, if it gets too dark, you may burn it. If the sugar caramel is over-cooked, it will affect the flan with a bitter taste.

2. Stir the sugar with a spoon as the sugar is melting. This will help it melt evenly and not burn the sugar in the center. Once all of the sugar has melted and caramelized, turn off heat. With the stirring spoon and a hot pad to hold the hot pot, swirl the pot to evenly spread the caramelized sugar, covering all the walls of the pot with an even coat. As the caramel cools, it will harden and stiffen to a glossy candy shell. The height of the hardened sugar coating will be the height of your flan. 3. Set aside and let it cool off while you mix the ingredients to make the flan. Part Two: The Flan 1. In a large mixing bowl, crack and beat all 5 eggs with a whisk until they are fluffy with air. 2. Whisk in both cans of Evaporated Milk and the can of Sweet & Condensed Milk. Con-

Part Four: Baking 1. Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees. 2. Baking a flan must be done with a Baño de Maria or water bath baking method. In this method, you place the flan pot into a larger pot with a shallow pool of water. This serves as a buffer for the heat so the flan will cook evenly. 3. Bake for 90–105 min. depending on your oven.

Baño de Maria

Is it done? Use Toothpick Test! Using a knife, fork or regular wood toothpick, pierce the flan. If the toothpick, fork or knife is pulled out clean, the flan is done. If the toothpick, fork or knife comes out gooey and caked with batter, the flan needs more time.

SIDE DISH

SKILL: Easy

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Sofrito and Arroz Con Gandules

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Serve with any fish or meat. Sofrito is the cooking base for just about every Puerto Rican dish. Without Sofrito, it is not a true Puerto Rican Dish.

Sofrito Ingredients* 1 Medium Spanish Onion 1 Handful of Chopped Cilantro 1 Medium Green Pepper 1 Medium Red Pepper 4–5 Fresh Garlic Cloves *If you have Sofrito already premade, start with 5–6 tablespoons of the thawed Sofrito.

Rice Ingredients 2–3 Tablespoons Canola Oil 1 Can Tomato Sauce 1 Envelope of Sazon Goya (con Achiote) – Found in the ethnic section of your grocer 2–3 teaspoons Salad Olives 1 Can of Gandules (GOYA) – Also found in the ethnic section of your grocer 2 Lbs. of Medium Grain Rice (rinse with water to release the starch) 4 Cups of Water Salt and pepper, to taste

Pot of Choice Caldero or Dutch Oven Pot: A pot that is wider than it is tall. Traditionally made of aluminum and comes in a wide range of sizes. Pot must have a lid.

Process 1. Finely chop all ingredients for Sofrito.* 2. Place Dutch Oven Pot on stove over medium heat. 3. Add 2–3 tablespoons of canola cooking oil into pot and let it heat up. 4. Add all chopped Sofrito ingredients in Dutch Oven and let simmer until they start to turn soft and translucent. Stir occasionally. 5. Once vegetables are cooking, add can of tomato sauce, 1 envelope of Sazon and 2–3 teaspoons of Salad Olives. 6. Let all ingredients continue to

simmer until it starts to get a saucey consistency. 7. Add rinsed rice and stir into sauce. 8. Immediately add 4 cups of water. There should be about 3/4-inch of water sitting above the rice as it settles into the pot. 9. Add salt and pepper to taste. 10. Cover pot and bring to a boil. Let the rice cook until all water has evaporated and the rice kernels have opened up. Once water has evaporated, stir rice and let cook until rice is soft and fluffy. Enjoy!

P OW E R T O O L S E R I E S

“Em”Power Tools Discover the true meaning of “Empowerment thru Power tools!” BY CARMEN DE LA PAZ

’ve educated hundreds of people on the basics of power tools, and I have discovered that the “power” in a power tool is its transformation to “empowerment.” The intimidating fear or lack of knowledge in an arena mostly considered a man’s world has convinced many people that power tools are complicated. Believe me—operating power tools is not brain surgery, and a little safety knowledge and tenacity will get you a long way. So many people, especially women, have never picked up a power tool. Not a drill, not a saw, not a nail gun, not even a small rotary tool. Yet, for the average homeowner, power tools can be used in two ways: 1. Practical home improvement projects, and 2. Creative crafting and art projects. A drill, a small air compressor and a nail gun/stapler can be purchased for less than $100 each. I dare say you can find them for less than $75—if you hold out for a sale or buy via the Internet. Most people don’t own a drill, an air compressor or a nail gun simply because they have never discovered all the uses of these tools. But here are three quick examples of why these tools are so “empowering:” n Using a nail gun to reupholster a bench will save you 70% of the time and will penetrate the staples deeper, keeping your reupholster project together stronger and longer. n By learning how easy it is to cut wood at a 45- and 90- degree angle will eliminate your need to hire a carpenter for most basic home improvement projects. Things you used to think you needed

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to hire someone to get done can now become a weekend project. n The drill is the most used power tool in a home for good reason. Things like hanging heavy pictures or mirrors with a wall anchor are much safer and more secure. Without a drill, installing a hanging anchor is impossible. With a drill installing an anchor takes 5 minutes and gives you peace of mind. Hanging curtains with a screwdriver is painful and frustrating. With a drill, it’s quick, easy and painless.

Start By Simply Playing If you approach power tools through creative projects first, one gains confidence and loses the fear of ruining something in their home (but in my mind, there isn’t a mistake that can’t be fixed). No harm, no foul, just playing. I promise that by flexing your creative muscle with power tools, you will discover ways to save money around the home by tackling simple home improvement projects you didn’t think you could handle. These projects become very cost-effective as well as GREAT confidence-builders: n Replacing that medicine cabinet in the bathroom you’ve been dying to replace for a couple of years. n Trimming out a door with molding that needed replacing after your kid took out the first one by riding his tricycle in the house. n Installing a base molding for the living room floor after you repainted the walls your favorite shade of yellow. n Installing and/or changing the hinges, handles and drawer pulls in your kitchen because the ones that came with the house were DREADFUL!

Basic Power Tools For Every Home These are tools that I consider essential yet easily handled by homeowners, DIYers or crafters alike. Rotary Tool: n A small rotary tool is a great way to introduce someone to power tools. A rotary tool is an introduction to drills but on a VERY small level. n They are small and fit right into your hand, so the user feels comfortable right away. n They have hundreds of interchangeable tips capable of handling materials such as wood, metal, tile and glass. Small polishing and buffing accessories make the possibilities endless. n It can be used as a cutting tool as well as an engraving or carving tool. It’s great for crafts and small DIY projects. n A recognized brand is Dremel—but there are many different ones out there.

Drills: Basic Driver/Drill, Hammer Drill, Impact Driver/Drill A drill will give you the power you need. Whether it be a “fix-it,” “install-it,” “make-it” project, a drill is a must have! With hundreds of interchangeable bits, your job is made easier, faster and more enjoyable! Sanders: Orbital, Square/Palm Sander, Mouse Sander, Belt Sander A sander puts the finishing touch on just about every project I touch. Each type of sander listed above reflects the shape and size of the actual sandpaper as well as the orientation in which the sander moves the sandpaper. Saws: Circular Saw, Jig Saw, Compound Miter Saw, Reciprocating These look much more intimidating than they are! In fact, circular saws are the second most-purchased entry-level power tool. Safety, safety, safety is the name of the game— especially when it comes to any saw! But, once you have mastered the basics of cutting wood, metal and stone, it will take you to new heights—not only in creativity but in the ways that you can bring value and personal character to your home and personal projects. Pneumatic: Nail Gun/Staple Gun/Crown Stapler, Compressor A compressor and nail gun is probably the biggest leap a beginning “do-it-yourselfer” can make. Fortunately, compressor and nail gun combos are now being geared to the average homeowner. As I mentioned before, I often walk into the big home improvement stores and find the combo pack of compressor, nail gun/stapler for as low as $59.00. They are targeted for light use and a small amount of storage is required. n n n Here is some advice: Before you buy a tool, find a friend or neighbor who has a tool similar to the one you want. Ask them to if you can take a look, hold the tool and get the feel of it, and see if they can possibly give you a quick demonstration. If you don’t have access to one, visit your local big box home improvement store on any weekend. They often have reps there to give you a handson look at a tool. Bottom line is this: If you are afraid of power tools or have never considered them an option, now is the time to leave the fear behind. It isn’t brain surgery, it’s tenacity. Believe me, any learning curve, challenge or mistake you may encounter, I have already had it, faced and experienced it. No one is born with a power tool in their hand! YOU CAN DO IT! MAGAZINE |

“Em”Power Tool #1:

FIRST IN OUR P OW E R T O O L S E R I E S

To Drill Or N 12

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Not That ToIsDrill... The Question! BY CARMEN DE LA PAZ

y answer is MOST definitely DRILL!! I am convinced that almost every household has a set of basic hand tools—a hammer, screwdriver, a pair of pliers and/or wire cutters. These are all good and necessary for minimal (and I mean minimal) things around the house.

“Em”Power Tool #1: Drill: Your most basic and generally inexpensive in the categories of drills. There is an on-and-off trigger with front and reverse modes. It runs at one speed and can be purchased with an electric cord, or cordless with rechargeable batteries.

Drill/Driver: However, whether it be for repair, renovation or décor, you’re unnecessarily limiting yourself by not adding a drill to your list of basic household tools. A drill is like so many things we take for granted: you don’t think you really need one because you don’t know what it can do for you. Then when you actually purchase one and begin to tackle some things that have “always needed fixing,” you will find yourself asking “Why didn’t I get one before?” You will confidently exclaim to anyone who will listen “I’ll never handscrew anything again! What was I thinking?” As far as I am concerned, a drill is THE entry-level must-have tool when considering power tools. I back up that statement by saying that it is the #1 most-purchased power tool by homeowners, weekend warriors and professional contractors. A drill is entry-level for many reasons: it is easy to operate, the intimidation factor is 14

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On this drill there will be a switch where you can change the speed of the drill. This is the clutch on a drill. It is similar to switching gears in a car, you change the clutch to change the speed or torque. The clutch engages or disengages the speed and driving motion to the drill for repetitive screwdriving—like when building a deck. With the clutch engaged, you can adjust the speed—lower speed, higher speed, more torque, less torque (this power is measured in pounds of force but, let’s not get too technical). What you need to know is that by switching the clutch “on,” it controls the “torque” or power used to drive the screw. This lets you adjust the power in order to give you better control of the screw. This is marrying the force needed to the material and the task being done. With this feature, you can literally adjust the drill—slow down the driving power when the drill motor senses that the screw is starting to snug up into the wood. The ability to adjust the speed and torque will help prevent the stripping of screws and tear out of the wood (when your screw goes too deep and leaves strands of the wood grain protruding) as opposed to nice and clean. Adjusting the clutch and speed will also help maintain a matched depth with each screw, which keeps things visually pleasing. There is an on-and-off trigger with front and reverse modes. These drills may be purchased with an electric cord, or cordless with rechargeable batteries.

Hammer Drill: Hammer drills and impact drivers are often confused…. This drill looks like a regular drill, but has a longer barrel nose and chuck. However it has one additional feature I am sure you will appreciate because, in addition to screwing in with a rotary motion, this drill also provides a hammering/pounding motion which gives you more power. This is one of those drills that you aren’t sure you are going to need or use until you get it. This is the drill you want when you are drilling into harder surfaces or need more strength behind what you are doing—such as concrete or stone or screwing a lag bolt into a stud. This baby really comes in when you are installing

that fancy wall mount for your awesome big flat screen TV. Some hammer drills can just run in “hammer mode” while some have a clutch to change from a regular drilling motion to hammer drill with the flick of a switch.

Impact Driver: Here is the trick to this drill: It not only turns and drives a screw by incorporating a pounding hammering motion like a hammer drill, but it adds ratcheting force behind each turn. It is basically pounding and tightening as you go. The impact driver is the ideal drill when

working with or installing into hard surfaces such as stone or cement. This little beauty works great when installing cabinetry because it has a smaller, stubby profile and a hex socket in place of the chuck. This makes for easier access and the ability to change bits and tips easily. There is an on-and-off trigger with front and reverse modes. It may be purchased with an electric cord, or cordless with rechargeable batteries. This is not the first drill I’d recommend for a power tool starter but, if you want to give yourself or someone you love a special gift, a combo set is worth mentioning for the weekend DIYers out there. Truly an investment you won’t regret!

YOU CAN DO IT! MAGAZINE |

low for the user, and the end results are many and huge—not to mention, in most cases, almost effortless.

Selecting The Right Drill For The Job Let’s discuss features and benefits along with things I suggest that you take into consideration when making the decision to purchase a drill. If the selection process is taken seriously, the drill you purchase should last quite some time as a part of your family of “I don’t know what I’d do without it” tools. There is so much to tell you about drills because there are so many types of drills. Each is designed and created for special applications and with different materials in mind. A drill is not just a drill. Most frequently, you will hear them referred to as drill, drill/driver, hammer drill, impact driver, and even rotary hammer drill. Some are the same, yet some are different. For our purposes, you see that I’ve broken down the segments into 3 types of drills: drill/drill driver, impact and hammer drill.

“Em”Power Tool #1: rarely pull them out but, when I need them—I really need them. I’m asked the question, “Do I buy a battery-operated cordless drill or a corded one?” all the time. And almost 99% of the time, I say go cordless. The easier it is to “grab and go,” the more likely you are to actually use it.

To drill or not to drill…that is the question… Whether ‘tis nobler in the mind to suffer; The slings and arrows of outrageous fortune by not buying a drill; Or to take arms against a sea of troubles And by opposing end them….by buying a drill!

Corded Or Not Corded...The Drill That Is Generally speaking a drill with an electric cable is going to have a bit more power. Quite frankly, with a corded drill, you can keep on going for hours without having to change batteries or wait for a battery to charge. With that being said, there is A LOT to be said about being able to go up a ladder and not worry about a cord limiting your comfort or safety. Out of the 12 drills I have in my workshop, only 2 of them have electric cords. And you guessed it: they are both hammer drills that I use when doing masonry work. This is mostly because a battery-operated drill won’t have the power or time on a battery charge to get me through the job. I 16

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models allow these tools to produce as much torque as some corded drills. One thing to consider is that there is a trade-off for wanting more power or more voltage in a cordless drill. The larger the battery, the heavier the tool. For continuous use, I will have one or more spare battery packs charging

Care About The Battery Numbers! Now the next question, “If I am going to buy a cordless drill, what do the numbers on the battery mean and do I care?” Yes, you should care since the number is closely related to the power or torque (the spinning power) the battery is able to generate. This can be the determining factor in whether you enjoy the project or not. Generally speaking, you will find 10.8V, 11V, 12V, 18V batteries. Professional-grade drills can even be found in 24V, 28V and 36 Volt. 18V drills are probably the most common. The higher-volt

while working. This gives me the luxury of quickly swapping them out instead of having to continually wait for recharging. Even with the Rapid Charge Batteries, I hate to wait the 10– 15 minutes they may take to charge. Now that you know more about drills than you ever thought imaginable, here are my last thoughts on the topic before you embark on buying your first drill: n Go battery-operated. n Buy the lightest weight for the highest volts you can afford. n Buy a general set of drill bits and tips to store along side your drill so you are ready to go at all times!

clutch

bit speeds trigger

chuck

reverse switch

cordless battery pack

Anatomy Of A Drill Bits: The tips of the drill that are interchangeable. Some have spiral grooves cut in them. Others have different-sized screwdriver tips.

Chuck: Where the drill bits are inserted at the nose of the drill. On hammer drills, the chuck needs a key to secure the tips and bits tightly.

Trigger: Like with a gun, this is the on-off switch.

Ratcheting: Progressive steps in one direction.

Clutch: The switch where you can change the speed of the drill.

Hex Socket: A different type of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Chuck.â&#x20AC;?

Torque: The power used to drive the screw.

Reverse Switch: The switch that enables the drill to go in the opposite direction.

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Ill 18

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luminating Garden Art Use simple tin punching techniques to recycle coffee cans into garden lighting!

’ve always been crazy about recycling, and I’m constantly asking myself what I can do with just about anything before I throw it away. Recently, I opened a little closet where I store my empty coffee cans. I’ve had some idea of what I wanted to do with the coffee cans, but simply never got around to doing it. The time had finally come to use an old time craft known as “tin punching” and turn these coffee cans into what I call “Illuminaries.”

Illuminating Garden Art

Tin punching is a craft that goes as far back in history as this country. Brought over by the Europeans, tin punching has been used as a functional and design feature on many

Enjoy and shed a little light out there. Even if it is in your own front yard – it will glow far!

things. From lanterns in old churches to the panels on an old-fashioned pie cabinet, you will find many images that were created with a simple hammer and nail punched into tin. It is a technique that, when supervised by an adult, a child will have a wonderful time making. Instead of using a hammer (and to make things go faster), I used a drill with a small bit on it. I like projects being quick and easy. These recycled coffee cans create what I call “Illuminaries.” Some people call them luminarias at the holiday season. Either way, when placed on the steps of a landing or a porch with a candle in them to make them glow, they become

WINTER 2012

a wonderful way to say “Welcome!”

GARDEN

TIME: 2 Hours SKILL: Moderate

Coffee Can Illuminaries

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Use simple tin punching techniques to recycle coffee cans into garden lighting! Tools Required Small Hammer with different size nails or Lightweight Drill with different size drill bits Clamps (to hold the piece in place while you are working) Scrap Piece of Wood (to secure the cans onto the work surface)

Materials Needed Coffee Cans (could also be any size can—vegetable can, tomato sauce can, etc.) Spray Paint of Choice and Primer Rough Grit Sandpaper or Fine File Ruler Permanent Marker Optional: Speed square (for quick right angles) Optional: Compass (for quick and accurate circles) Safety Glasses—mandatory for all Gloves—optional for adults,

mandatory for children Small Votive Candle or batteryoperated candle (if children are using)

Step-By-Step 1. Remove any paper label and sand off any excess glue or paper. 2. Using a permanent marker, draw or outline the design you want to punch onto the can. 3. Using the clamps and scrap piece of wood, secure the can to a solid work surface. 4. Carefully tap with the hammer and nail or drill holes long the lines of the image you are working on. 5. Note: You can either be very exact by measuring out the space in between the holes or you can go free hand for a

real handcrafted look. 6. Paint, Patina—or not! You can choose to leave the natural look and not paint them. They will look awesome. I decided to paint and patina a few just to show you all the options. I applied primer first, then painted. 7. Place the small candle inside and wait for the darkness to come.

SAFETY High-Fa

afety is the single most important part of any project, period. I am passionate about safety because I know firsthand that most accidents happen due to carelessness with safety precautions and procedures. Before you get the tools running, I’d love to share a few safety tips that I adhere to whenever and wherever I am doing my thing with power tools. Whether for work or play, the rules don’t change…Safety first!!!

S 1

Always protect eyes, ears and respiration: Eyes: Wear safety glasses at a minimum. I often wear safety glasses AND 22

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a face shield. You’d be surprised how minute particles can make their way into your eyes. Don’t wait to find out how that feels. There are some very cool and stylish safety glasses available, so you don’t have to worry about looking like you are wearing your grandpa’s safety glasses. I prefer to wear 3M’s safety glasses because they look so cool and protect my eyes so well. Ears: Your hearing is one thing you can’t recover if damaged! Safety ear plugs or ear muffs should be used in more situations than you may consider, such as mowing the lawn. It doesn’t take much to injure or even break one of the very tiny bones in your ears.

Respiration: Protecting your lungs and respiratory system during a project is as simple as using a respiratory mask. Please keep in mind that different masks protect against different things. Be sure to use the proper respiratory mask that is made specifically for the job you’re doing. Then make sure you are wearing it correctly so the respiratory mask can do its job and keep you safe. Follow the instructions provided with your mask.

If you have long hair, tie it back! You do not want any hanging bangs! Simply put, you don’t want to wear or leave anything hanging from

ashion

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Protecting your eyes, ears and lungs is VITAL...you can’t grow new ones! These highperformance safety glasses are the Fuel X2’s from 3M. Cool-looking safety glasses like this pair of 3M’s Moon Dawgs aren’t what your grampa used to wear! Choose the right ear-wear for the job. If ear plugs are enough, great! If not, go for a headset. 3M’s WorkTunes headset comes with AM/FM radio and a port for an MP3 player!

SAFETY High-Fashion in

If you’ve got long hair, tie it back. Also keep any bangs you may have tucked into a hat or bandana. You don’t want to get scalped by anything with a rotating blade!

You should automatically wear gloves when working with hand tools, but not power tools. A good pair of leather gloves will save you many a blister!

Do yourself a favor and wear a comfortable pair of workboots. You will get tired faster if you don’t and that’s when painful mistakes happen.

your body where it may get caught up in a blade, drill bit or anything that has a mechanical motion. I wear hats for many reasons, but safety is the most important. With a hat on and my hair tied back, I am much safer.

glove gets caught, it will pull your finger into the blade without you being able to pull it out. These accidents happen incredibly fast. I’ve seen it happen and I don’t want you to experience this!

landing pad for something heavy—it never fails. Most workshops and sets hold very strictly to this rule. No shoes, no work or service! If you have sturdy boots, that’s the best, especially if they have reinforced toes.

Wearing gloves should not be automatic for all occasions. Wear gloves only when necessary. A good rule of thumb (no pun intended) is this: gloves with hand tools, no gloves with power tools. Wearing gloves at work sites diminishes lacerations up to 60%.

Do not wear gloves when working with any cutting tool that has a rotating blade. Think back to the idea of not having anything on that could get caught in a blade. If a loose 24

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No loose sleeves or fringes on any clothing. Same rule as above…anything loose has the potential of being pulled into a tool or caught on a ladder rung, just as a couple of examples! Also be careful of pull strings on hoodie sweatshirts. They can dangle right into a power tool and wreak all kinds of havoc.

Feet must always be protected in a work zone. NEVER WEAR FLIPFLOPS OR SANDALS! Exposed toes will get banged, poked or become a

Wear comfortable shoes and kneepads. Proper work wear goes a long way to help prevent injury due to fatigue. Wearing the wrong shoes will greatly impact your fatigue. Tight or uncomfortable shoes will affect aches and pains in your whole body. When you are tired and uncomfortable, you may be tempted to cut corners and ignore basic safety precautions in the rush to get something done. DON’T DO IT! Be comfortable and wear the appropriate shoe for the task at hand.

in a pinch

How To Make A

STENCIL

From Blue Tape Tape Tip: Delicate Surfaces painterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tape has no texture, ensuring edges are completely sealed in order to produce really clean/crisp lines with paint applications.

TIP: Use a mini wallpaper roller to evenly press down the tape onto the paper.

t was late one night when I was in the middle of production for my show on Utilisima!, Be Handy con Carmen, when I needed to make a stencil. I ran to my specialty paper section of my shop, thinking I had blank plastic sheets that I could use for making one. NONE. All gone, not a single one left! I needed to finish a project for the next dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shoot, and in my desperate need to finish the project, I came up with a pretty cool idea I know I will use again. Project Challenge: Transfer a printed image from paper onto wood panels that need to be jigged out with a scroll saw. The wood panels were being made into a biombo or room divider.

Tape Features: Low bond adhesion ensures that the tape can be removed without damaging your paint surface, and no residue will be left behind if the tape is left for up to 60 days.

Tape Benefits: Less touch-ups in the end. Professionallooking end product with less work.

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CRAFTS

TIME: 1/2 Hour SKILL: Easy

™

De La Paz

Blue Tape Stencil

YouCanD It!

Create a stencil in order to transfer the silhouette of an image onto a piece of wood, furniture or even a wall using ScotchBlue™ Painter’s Tape Delicate Surfaces with Edge-Lock, a piece of paper and an artist’s knife. Tools Required Artist’s knife

Materials Needed ScotchBlue™ Painter’s Tape Delicate Surfaces with Edge-Lock Piece of laser paper with image drawn or printed Scrap piece of wood or appropriate cutting surface

Step-By-Step 1. Print or draw the image you’d like to use on a blank piece of laser paper. 2. On the non-printed side of the paper, lay strips of Delicate Surface Painter’s tape side-by-side, seaming them or overlapping a bit. 3. Once tape is in place, rub firmly to ensure good adhesion, especially at the edges where you will be cutting out. This will help create clean cutting lines. 4. Flip paper over so the image side is up. Lay the paper over a safe cutting surface and use your artist’s knife to cut out the silhouette of the image. Don’t rush—take your time. 5. Once the image is cut out, you can use it to transfer the image by tracing along the cut out, or use it as a stencil to isolate a paint section with crisp lines and strong definition of your desired image.

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n i Pa 28

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g n i t n 10 Painting is the #1 DIY project that will greatly impact the feel of a room. Set yourself up for success before you tackle your walls AND increase your DIY confidence at the same time!

very “Do-It-Yourself,” “How-To” or home repair project I present is meant to be a starting point with hopes of inspiring you to arm yourself with the right tool and save money around the house while flexing that creative muscle I know we all have. I consider every project you find in these pages to be basic “101” information that everyone who desires a nice home should explore and not be afraid to attempt. I am constantly out to prove “You Can

BY CARMEN DE LA PAZ

g n i t n i a P 101 Do It”—and we could all use a little advice, insight and inspiration along the way. SO, I am here to help… First things first, and this statement goes for EVERYTHING…yes, EVERYTHING:

You’re work will be only good as your equipment and preparation.

Cardinal Rule of Painting: USE A GOOD BRUSH.

The starting point for any home project is with the tools you select and the amount of time you take to prepare, both in the planning and in the actual execution of the task at hand, and painting is no exception! What

BAD

Use The Right Tool For The Job At Hand Take your tool selection seriously and recognize that your tools and supplies will contribute greatly to the total experience of any home project. The frustration or challenges of not using the right tool for the job will not only cost you more time and money but will cause you great frustration. Even more importantly, any challenge you encounter will take away from how much you enjoy your project—which will ultimately determine if you will ever do it again. Don’t compromise on the quality of your tools by buying the cheapest one you can find. Set yourself up for success, not a Saturday full of frustration, wishing you were doing something else. I have been there, and almost always the frustrations and challenges have been a result of trying to rush and go “on the cheap.” Have you heard the phrase “Cheap is always Expensive?” That doesn’t always equate to dollars and cents. It

SIMPLY SAID:

GOOD

Spending a little more money on a quality brush will help ensure your end result will have a professional look. This philosophy applies to almost any tool you use in your adventures with DIY repair.

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may seem like an insignificant decision to purchase one brush over another, one tool over another, or even which painters tape you choose to purchase, will greatly determine how much work you put into a project, not to mention the amount of pleasure and satisfaction you will get out of the project.

Bad brush = bad finish Good brush = good finish Good blade = good cut Bad blade = bad cut also applies to time and energy being wasted. Quality does not necessarily mean more expensive. The secret is to source quality tools in the most costeffective manner. For example: You can buy the cheapest brush out there because, “All I’m doing is painting one room,” but you are gonna suffer. Trust me: Spend a couple more dollars on the mid-tier quality brush and that brush (if well taken care of) will last you for years to come. There are basic items that every

painter will consider necessary to achieve a great paint job. Below you will find the list of basics. As we go along, they will all come into play as you set out to do a great paint job.

Basic Paint Tools And Equipment These are the basic items you will need to prep and paint a solid interior wall of home with basic paint: n Paint Rollers: 9"/6"/4"/3" n Household paintbrushes: 4"/2"/1" n Paint trays: 12"/6" n Paint Tarps (The ones with plastic lining on the back and canvas on the top are awesome) n 1" & 2" Scotch Blue Painter’s Tape n 1" & 1½" Decorative Painters Tape n Paint Can Opener n Painters rags n Flat head and Phillips head screw driver

Types of Paint: Oil-Based or Lead? Now you must determine two things before you run out and buy your paint: Was the previous or pre-existing paint on the wall done with an oil- or leadbased paint? This will determine what steps you will need to take and what products you will need to buy to get the job done well AND safely. First check for lead in the paint using a lead check test. These lead check tests are inexpensive and can be done quickly. 3M makes an instant lead test called Lead Check. If it tests positive for lead, DO NOT SAND the surface as you don’t want to put any lead particles in the air. What you DO want to do is seal it in with a primer! Seal in the lead by applying a few coats of primer before going on to painting your base color. If you are safe with the lead now

determine if the pre-existing paint job is oil or water/latex-based? Here’s why it’s important: We all know that water and oil don’t mix. This also applies to oil-based paints and water/latex-based paint. More specifically, this applies to which paint can be painted over another. Not as complicated as it sounds…

JUST REMEMBER: Water/latex-based paint over oil-based paint? NEVER! Oil-based paint over water/latex-based paint? Sometimes and maybe… but always with a primer With this concept in mind, if you paint over a wall or trim work that has a pre-existing oil-based paint, varnish, or sealer, you need to prep it differently than if you were applying latex paint over latex paint. It used to be a bigger problem 10–15 years ago when oil-based paint was being manufactured by all paint brands. But, there have been many advances in the way paints are currently formulated to the point where the quality rivals that what the oilbased paints previously provided. I, for one, am very happy to leave the volatile organic compounds behind. The enormous smell and cost associated with the chemicals required to work with and clean-up oil-based paints was not only expensive but also un-friendly to our planet. Today, most homes have water-based paint products throughout a home. Oil- or leadbased paints become more of an issue in older homes that haven’t seen a new coat of paint in 10 to 15 years. The same way oil rejects water, a coat of water/latex-based paint will reject/separate from an oil-based paint. You’ve seen it: Flaking paint more-often-than-not is a symptom of someone along the way cheating and slapping on a coat of water/latex-based paint OVER the top of an oil-based

Paint Equipment You Should Not Skimp On A paintbrush is not just a paintbrush; a roller is not just a roller; and tape is not just tape. Quality is key! I have faced challenges more than once when I’ve “hemmed and hawed” about spending less, especially when I’m in a hurry or trying to control the bottom line. Here’s why: Cheap Brushes – Bristles fall out and into the paint, or even worse, are left behind on the surface you are painting. Cheap Paint rollers – The fuzz on the rollers fall off and into the paint and, yup, onto the surface. Cheap Tape – All tape has an adhesion backing made up of a bonding agent. The bad tape often doesn’t seal the seam well and allows the paint to leak through, killing a crisp line. Cheap tapes also tend to leave behind residue of the adhesive from the tape backing, transferring the adhesive to the surface being painted. In short, paying a bit more money for these items will save you heartache and time. Every time I’ve opted for the cheaper stuff, I have been frustrated and in the long run, spent more in my labor. To put it into perspective, the total difference in cost when painting a medium-sized room and purchasing better quality is not much when compared to issues of frustration you may have to face if you have to paint all over again! YOU CAN DO IT! MAGAZINE |

g n i t n i a P 101

“It’s all in the prep…”

paint/varnish/sealer without priming first. It is one of the most common mistakes for a new painter: Painting water-based paint over oil-based without painting a primer in between. So, next time you see a paint job that seems to be flaking off in sheets or bubbling up, you will know why. So what’s the point: Go the additional mile to determine if your old paint contains lead, AND if you’re not sure if your pre-existing paints are oil based, use primer.

cracks or flaking in the pre-existing paint job. The more meticulous you are about the prep of your paint job, the better the end result. There is nothing worse than being able to detect a hole and wall repair under a new paint job or to end up with a wavy ceiling line. Both are immediate signs of careless work. So let’s prep, patch, tape and paint.

STEP #1: PREP WALLS AND PROTECT YOUR FLOORS: Clean Your Paint Surface Or Walls. Even before you can start the repair work on holes and cracks, take the time to clean dirt, dust and loose debris from the surface to be painted. If your walls have grime or grease, I highly recommend you wipe down the walls with a Tri-Sodium Phosphate (TSP) cleaner. They now manufacture an environmentally

SIMPLY SAID: The more time in the prep, the less time in the job and the more quality in the final product.

You will continue to hear me say it over and over again, “The secret to any job well done is in the preparation.” Taking the time up front, at the start of any project, to prepare your paint surface well will ensure a great paint job in the end.

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Prepping A Surface For Painting In order to ensure a great paint job, there are a few things that must happen before you can actually start to roll out that paint. This is called the prep and it usually begins by cleaning the surface to be painted. Once the surface is clean you will then move on to patching holes and repairing any

safe form of TSP that does not compromise performance. Trisodium phosphate can be found in the paint department in powder form. It is diluted in water and used as an agent to breakdown grease and grime as well as take the sheen off of a previously painted high-gloss finish—giving the paint surface an industry term called “teeth.” Giving the surface “teeth” refers to allowing the new coat of paint to bite on or grab onto the previously painted surface. Please be sure to wear gloves.

Protecting Your Floor For The Paint Process. Canvas Tarps: These work great for quickly moving around a room. However, don’t use a tarp if there will be a lot of traffic in the room while you are painting as they may become a tripping hazard. Heavy-Duty Non-Slip Tarps: I am a huge fan of the heavy-duty anti-slip tarps. They are reusable and if a tool happens to fall while you’re working, the anti-slip tarp brings added protection. You can tape the tarps directly to your floor if you anticipate multiple days of work and/or heavy traffic in and out of the room. When taping tarps down to a wood floor, be sure to use Scotch Blue Decorative Painters paint to prevent the finish on the floor from being damaged when you pull up the tape a few days later.

These heavy-duty anti-slip paint tarps come in rolls and are found in the paint section of your hardware store. Protective Plastic For Rugs You can find this plastic in the flooring department of major home improvement stores. They come in rolls and have an adhesive back that adheres and forms perfectly to your rug. It’s the safest and most effective way to protect a rug during a paint job. Check out the new canvases that have conforming edges—awesome for painting over steps!

STEP #2: PATCH Drywall And Plaster Repair Tools required: n 1½" putty knife (for smaller holes)

n 4" spatula (for larger holes) n 6" square drywall trowel (for drywall mesh and seams) Supplies: n Joint compound plaster (for holes big and small) n Or lightweight wall spackle (use only in small holes) Tips And Tricks For Patching: n Using joint compound plaster or lightweight wall spackle, fill any small nail or screw holes with a small trowel or putty knife. These both come in pre-mixed and powdered form (simply add water) and all come in tube or tubs which are great for purchasing the quantity you need. n Don’t leave the pre-mixed tubs lying around for too long. They will dry up. When storing an opened tub, be sure to seal it well.

Want To Paint A Strong or Dark Color? Time To Prime! When should you prime a wall? If the wall has a pre-existing oil-based paint. If you suspect a wall has had lead-based paint. If the wall has new drywall and joint compound plaster that must be sealed. n If changing paint color from dark color to a lighter one or a lighter color to a darker one. n n n

Using Tinted Primer A mistake is often made by even seasoned painters by not using a tinted primer when using a strong or dark color paint. By using a tinted primer you... Block out the original color on the surface. Then you can achieve the true color you want to have since it does not have a light base reflecting out from underneath. n End up using less of the more expensive paint. We all love to save money. n Save time because you get to your desired color much faster. n

Frequently Asked Questions: Q: What is a tinted primer? A: Primer paint that has been tinted a dark shade. Q: Where do I get a tinted primer? A: You can have the paint desk add tint to the primer, or you can buy a bottle of universal tints and add it to a primer yourself.

Color Combinations That Make Your Tinted Primer Most Productive Help yourself even further in your paint process by choosing the right primer color to help you capture the final color faster. If you are painting a surface deep red, purple, black or dark brown, use a dark grey or even black primer. If you are using a metallic paint such as gold, silver or copper, use grey, black or red primer before you apply the metallic paint (especially since metallic paints are sooooo expensive).

YOU CAN DO IT! MAGAZINE |

g n i t n i a P 101 n For repair of smaller nail or pinholes, using a finger to dab the spackle or plaster into the hole is often easier than using a putty knife. n For slightly larger holes, use a putty knife or small trowel to help spread the plaster or spackle. Using the trowel or putty knife, feather away or fade away along the edges to blend back into the wall. n For larger drywall repair, use mesh drywall tape or metal drywall patches to help support the plaster in place.

Insider Tip:

When doing wall repair of any kind, instead of using sand paper to sand down the uneven spots you have filled with plaster or spackle (and to avoid unnecessary fine dust) use a wet rag to sand down the surface—you will end up with a nicer blend and be able to feather in and out easier. This makes the repair disappear completely.

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Steps To Quick Wall Repair 1. Fill in holes and allow plaster or spackle to dry completely. 2. Once plaster or spackle has dried, you may notice a depressed area. This happens as the moisture leaves the plaster. The material shrinks into the hole. Simply apply another layer and let dry. 3. Sand down the edges and fill again. Allow to dry. 4. Sand down to a nice even surface and you are ready for the next step.

or weakness when blocking out paint, and the right tape almost totally prevents the bleeding of paint. Thus, less touch-ups and fixes. I assure you, your choice of tape will save you hours of touch-ups with a small brush at the end of the project. I promise. A Few Taping Tips n Tear the tape at an angle when taping off a corner to get a really tight seam. Paint has a tendency to puddle corners thus having a higher propensity to bleed. n Use a teaspoon or the edge of small flat head screwdriver to give the edge of the tape a good seal.

STEP #3: TAPING

STEP #4: PAINTING

Tape off all edges. Isolate the areas you want to paint. Use tape to define a crisp clean line. For a truly professional end result of your paint project, do not underestimate the time spent on taping every square inch of your paint surface. You will often hear people say “I hate taping!” But consider tape your new best friend. Using tape to mask off your paint areas will leave you crisp lines - which differentiates the quality of work from mediocre to excellent. Side Note: Not all tapes are created equal. Invest extra money for decorative painters tape. It does not have a textured pattern where paint could easily bleed through when a heavy hand is applied. It creates a much easier time of touch-up when you pull the tape off. Using the right kind of tape allows the painter to isolate areas without damaging work that has already been done. I have gone through many different kinds of tape in many different circumstances and have discovered this: Choosing your tape is the most important decision you need to make after choosing your color of paint! The tape you choose will be your biggest strength

“Cut in” or paint all the edges and corners first with one of your paintbrushes. Then using a roller, roll paint onto the wall in X and W patterns. Then roll in as tight to the edge as possible blending in the edges and corners already painted with the brush. Brush Tips n Use an angled brush to help trim work go faster. n Keep the wet edge of the paint moving forward. Roller Tip n De-fuzz a roller by rolling it over tape to get rid of loose fuzz. This will prevent you from leaving them behind on your wall during the paint process. As you can see, I could go on and on about paint. The bottom line: Just try it! Did you know that just changing paint color can impact the feel of a room up to 70%! The best thing about paint is—if you change your mind about the color, you can just paint it again with a low economic impact. Hopefully with the inside track of information I have provided, you will save yourself heartache, paint, and money by doing it yourself!