deux baguettes

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deux baguettes



table of contents coconut milk corn chowder classic salade lyonaise strictly summer veggie chili a tale of two galates: sweet & savory pie crust 101: it’s all about the butter carrot top & hemp seed pesto lamb coconut curry with roasted cauliflower the perfect roast chicken chimmichurri steak with spicy sweet potato mash sea bream with mustard, herbs & lemon thomas keller inspired ratatouille (confit byaldi) red wine braised short ribs with polenta andrew’s fresh salmon rilettes my favorite food: summer borscht (cold beet soup) lamb chops with crispy smashed potatoes fall’s perfect pumpkin soup the humble cauliflower & quinoa bowl lablabi (tunisian chickpea stew) fridge dive / pantry raid veggie soup borrowed from seattle: sardine toasts with tomato aioli and fennel candied walnut & apple salad with spiced cider vinaigrette chickon dijon: french comfort food roast chicken with winter vegetables classic french vinaigrette homemade beef pho (vietnamese noodle soup) mom’s chicken noodle soup sweet potato & goat cheese gratin butter chicken inspired veggie stew homemade dash broth: basics of japanese cooking copycat spinach, vegetable, & pasta soup our favorite veggie lasagna pasta carbonara, two ways crispy pasta & cauliflower bake tuscan-inspired tomato, fennel, & white bean stew russian brown bread the russian party staple: salad “olivier” green thai curry with chickpeas & potatos spring pea & bean salad with lemon & herbs poached salmon with peas, mushrooms & quinoa pumpkin chocolate chip bread

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coconut milk corn chowder (makes about 4 servings) total prep & cook time: 60 to 75 minutes

ingredients

2 stalks celery, diced 3 small yukon gold potatoes, peeled & diced 4 oz pancetta (if you’d like, substitute high quality bacon, diced) 1 red pepper, diced 1 jalapeùo, diced 4 ears fresh corn, shucked

Photo

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1 14 oz can of coconut milk (use half a can if not pureeing) 1 1/2 to 2 cups vegetable broth 1 tbsp olive oil 2 tsp salt (+ more to taste) 1 tsp pepper


let’s get cooking 1. Prepare your ingredients: peel the potatoes, dice the vegetables and shuck your corn. 2. Heat the olive oil in a medium sized dutch oven or soup pot over medium heat. Add pancetta & saute for 2 to 3 minutes, until pancetta is crispy and golden brown. Using a slotted spoon, remove pancetta from the pot and set aside. 3. Pour off about half of the oil in the pot (the pancetta will have melted & left additional grease— keep some of it for flavor, but you don’t need it all!). Add celery and cook over medium heat until softened. 4. Add corn, diced potatoes, salt and pepper. Mix to evenly distribute. 5. Add vegetable broth until the cotrn & potatoes are just covered (about 1 1/2 to 2 cups of broth should do it). Bring the soup to boil, then reduce to simmer and partially cover the pot. 6. Cook for about 20 to 25 minutes, stirring a few times, until the potatoes are just becoming soft. 7. Add red pepper and jalapeño to the soup and stir. Simmer for about 5 minutes longer. 8. Add the coconut milk to the soup—if you’re planning to blend / puree the soup, add the full 14 oz can, since the pureed vegetables will re-thicken the mixture. If not blending, only use about half of the can, and add more if needed to thin. Leave the soup over medium heat for a few minutes to warm the coconut milk, then remove from heat. 9. If blending, let the soup cool for about 10 minutes before using an immersion blender to puree. I like to puree about 1/2 of the soup, leaving some chunky pieces behind... blend to your preferred texture! 10. After blending (optional), add 1/2 of the reserved pancetta into the soup and stir. 11. Serve with an extra sprinkling of pancetta and/or sour cream or yogurt on top.

Jess’s Thoughts!

I was feeling comfort food, but in the spirit of keeping it healthy and light, I went for a fresh corn & coconut milk chowder instead of burgers and fries. Corn chowder is not the most beautiful food—it’s a sunflower yellow color that eats perfectly but photographs poorly, and after a quick date with the immersion blender, it’s just not the sexiest girl at the party. But you know, it was so delicious, and really, what else matters?

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classic salade lyonnaise (makes enough for 2 entrée sized portions) total prep & cook time: 30-40 minutes (varies on your poaching expertise!)

ingredients

2 heads of frisee (if not available, substitute with romaine or escarole) 4 oz pancetta (finely diced bacon will do as well) 1 clove garlic Juice of ½ lemon 1/8 cup olive oil, plus 1 tbsp

Jess’s Thoughts!

½ tsp salt, plus a pinch or two more to taste ½ tsp cracked pepper ~2 tbsp white vinegar 4 eggs (you can downside to 2 eggs, so 1 per person, but why would you do such a thing?)

A note on frisee: It’s finicky, and that’s a fact. If yvou can find it at your local grocery (it seems to appear and reappear at an unknowable cadence at our Whole Foods), then I absolutely recommend you use it, because its bitter crunchiness is the perfect counterpoint to the salty pancetta and rich egg yolks. The key is to try to buy and use it immediately – it tends to go limp within a day or two (at most!) in your fridge. If frisee isn’t available (or isn’t your thing), substitute with romaine hearts or escarole, or both – they’re not the traditional base, but they get 95% of the way there, and don’t require half as much TLC.

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let’s get cooking 1. Roughly chop your frisee (or other greens) & place in a large salad or mixing bowl. 2. Prepare the dressing: crush garlic using your knife blade or a garlic press, then finely mince. In a small bowl, combine garlic, 1/8 cup olive oil, lemon juice, ½ tsp salt and cracked pepper. Whisk to emulsify; then, set aside. 3. Place a non-stick skillet over medium low heat. Add 1 tbsp olive oil, then add pancetta and cook for approximately 3 minutes, stirring frequently, until pancetta is crispy and fat has rendered (you’ll have a lot of excess oil in the pan). 4. Pour off approximately ½ of the excess grease in the pan and throw away. Ladle the pancetta over the frisee, then pour the remaining grease into the prepared dressing. Whisk again and set aside. 5. Fill a medium saucepan or saucier with water (fill to no more than 1 to 2 inches from the top) and set to boil (you can do this earlier on, just be sure to watch your pot so it doesn’t boil over or evaporate too quickly). Once the water is at a medium boil, you’re ready to poach your eggs. 6. The art of the poach: into a small bowl, splash about a ½ tbsp. of white vinegar. Crack an egg directly into the vinegar. (Why vinegar? It helps coagulate the egg white, even before it hits the water, helping you protect that yolk during all of the spinning & boiling). Using a spoon, swirl the water in your saucepan in a circular motion, creating a small vortex in the center. Quickly remove your spoon, and while the water is still spinning, gently drop in your egg (along with the vinegar in the bottom of the bowl). While the egg cooks, lay out a strip of paper towel on your workstation, to place your eggs once you’re finished. After about a minute, use a slotted spoon to delicately pull your egg out of the water (be sure to start your spoon at the bottom of the pot and pull up, so that you don’t accidentally graze the yolk). Deposit on your paper towel station (I like to roll it gently off my slotted spoon, like a little ramp). Repeat with remaining eggs. 7. If your egg white doesn’t wrap around your yolk: don’t worry – you don’t need 100% of the egg white to protect your yolk while you poach. If your whites start to boil up and create long stringy tails, use some scissors or a spoon to gently “cut” the dangling white off from the main yolk, and use your slotted spoon to grab it and toss it away. 8. If your water starts to get crazy foamy, like it may boil over: this happens to me all the time! The white foam you’re seeing is a reaction between the vinegar & all of the tiny bits of egg white floating around in the water. Use a spoon to siphon it off the same way you skim the top of a clear broth. 9. If your egg breaks: I’m pretty sure this is why they sell eggs in a set of 12… break one, 11 tries to go! :P 10. Once all of your eggs are poached (and resting), whisk your dressing one more time, then pour over the frisee & pancetta. Toss to coat evenly, then season with additional salt and/or pepper to taste. 11. Plate the salad into equal portions, gently top each with poached eggs and serve.

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strictly summer veggie chili (makes about 5 or 6 full servings) total prep & cook time: about an hour

ingredients

1 yellow onion, diced 4 medium cloves garlic, minced 4 carrots (extra credit for colorful ones!), diced 2 tbsp olive oil 1 14oz can petite diced or crushed tomatoes 1 tbsp tomato paste 1 tsp cumin 1 tsp salt 1/2 tsp pepper 1 large or 2 small bell peppers, diced (I used green but red/yellow work just as well) 1 14oz can garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained

Jess’s Thoughts!

2 cups mushrooms, chopped 1 large or 2 small bell peppers, diced (I used green but red/yellow work just as well) 1 14oz can garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained 1 large or 2 small bell peppers, diced (I used green but red/yellow work just as well) 1 14oz can garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained 2 cups mushrooms, chopped 2 ears fresh raw corn 2 1/2 cups vegetable broth 1 summer squash, diced (optional) 1/2 serrano or jalapeño pepper,

toppings (optional) 1 avocado, diced 1 tbsp of greek yogurt or sour cream, per bowl Fresh lemon juice

One quick pantry discussion, before we jump into the chili goodness: Somehow, despite the tiny can, I never seem to use up a whole can of tomato paste when cooking, so when I heard about a great way to store the leftovers a few years, I had to try it! If you’ve ever run into this while cooking at home, give it a shot—it’s so easy. Scoop any of your leftover tomato paste (or even a new full can) into a small ziploc bag. Try to get as much air out of the bag as you seal it, then flatten on a hard surface, and squish the tomato paste so it forms an even flat square (or rectangle, it doesn’t have to be pretty). Pop that into the freezer, and when you need some tomato paste, just break off a piece (it will crack easily) and pull out to use. It’s pretty easy to eyeball one or two tbsp, but if you want to get precise, you can let the paste thaw out a bit and scoop it instead (although this gets messier). Otherwise, you can drop the frozen paste right into any soup, stew, chili, etc., and it will melt back into perfect consistency within the minute.

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let’s get cooking 1. Dice and/or mince the onion, carrots & garlic. Add to a large soup pot or stock pot, along with 2 tbsp of olive oil. Set aside (but don’t put over heat yet). 2. Shuck the corn over a trash can, removing all leaves and silk. One at a time, take the shucked corn cob and set it over a medium sized bowl. Holding the top of the cob with one hand, use your other hand to cut the kernels off with a knife, pointing the blade diagonally downwards, aiming your cut at the base of the kernels. I typically cut from the middle to bottom of the cob first, then flip it and do the other half. Set bowl aside. 3. Chop the remaining chili veggies and separate into two bowls: one for veggies that get added earlier on in the cooking process (I add my squash & mushrooms to the bowl of corn) and a second for veggies that will get added later on (bell peppers, serrano/jalapeño). The key here is to separate the veggies that need to cook through (mushrooms) vs. the ones that you want to stay slightly crunchy (bell peppers). 4. Add a pinch of salt to the onions/carrots/garlic in the soup pot to season, then set over medium low heat for about 5 minutes, stirring infrequently. (This is a tweaked version of mirepoix, the flavor foundation of any great soup or stew.) 5. Add tomato paste and stewed/crushed tomatoes to the soup pot. Add spices to the pot (salt, pepper, cumin) and stir. Let mixture come to a boil. 6. Deglaze the bottom of the soup pot by adding the vegetable broth & using your spoon to scrape along the bottom of the pot. 7. Add the first bowl of veggies (corn, squash, mushrooms) and the garbanzo beans. Stir to evenly distribute all of the ingredients, and let the mixture come to a boil. 8. Reduce heat to low & cover. Let simmer for approximately 15 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes or so. 9. Add remaining bowl of veggies (bell peppers, serrano/jalapeño) and stir. Recover and let simmer for an additional 10 minutes. Use a spoon to try the broth—add additional salt or pepper to taste. 10. Prepare toppings while the chili cools—I love adding some diced avocado, a dollop of greek yogurt and a few squeezes of lemon!

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a tale of two galettes: sweet & savory savory: tomato, red onion & pesto galette

(makes one large entree-sized galette, about 12” in size, perfect for 2 to 4 people)

ingredients

1 single pie crust, rolled out to approximately 13 to 14” in diameter about 10 medium sized tomatoes—I used vine (also called bush) tomatoes here... if using large tomatoes, size down to 4 or 5, if using cherry or grape tomatoes, size up to at least 15 (sliced in half)

Jess’s Thoughts!

1/4 cup sliced or diced red onion 1/2 cup pesto for filling—I used this carrot top pesto, but any pesto will work here... other substitution ideas: goat cheese or ricotta with a drizzle of olive oil 1/2 tbsp minced spring garlic or crushed garlic (optional) 1/2 tsp salt 1 egg yolk

Needless to say, all of this summer gallivanting doesn't leave an incredible amount of time for meal planning and long, luxuriously complex recipes. My answer to the problem? Minimize prep & kitchen time (too hot in there!) and maximize deliciousness. This week, that solution is two perfect, no-fancy-ingredients-required galettes, one savory for dinner and one sweet for dessert. Post pie crust (more on that below), each requires only 10-15 minutes of work, then the rest of the magic happens in the oven, while you relax on the couch with a glass of wine!

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let’s get cooking 1. Preheat your oven to 375 degrees. Flour a flat surface and roll your pie crust into a circle approximately 13 to 14" in diameter. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or a silpat sheet and place in the fridge. 2. Slice your tomatoes into even slices (I like them about a centimeter in thickness, but adjust based on the size of tomatoes you're using). Set aside. 3. Thinly slice or dice your red onion. Set next to your tomatoes as a quick prep station. 4. Pull your dough out the fridge. Using a large spoon, spread pesto (or other filling) on to your dough, making an even layer all the way around, stopping an inch before the edge (all the way around your circle). 5. If adding additional spring garlic or crushed garlic, sprinkle it over the pesto filling. 6. Layer your tomatoes and red onion onto the filling, making sure to cover the entire space. I had some fun & layered different colors of tomato with the pop of red onion, but you can also be quick & dirty here and toss it on! 7. Sprinkle filling with salt. 8. Using the fold method from pie crust 201, fold the dough around the filling, creasing along the folds to make sure the dough stays during baking. 9. Quickly whisk the egg yolk in a cup or small bowl. Brush egg yolk over the dough. 10. Bake at 375 degrees for about 40 minutes, or until the tomato center is bubbling. Check the galette after 15 to 20 minutes for crust browning; if the galette crust is already a shiny golden brown, tent with foil for the remainder of baking. 11. Let the galette rest for 10 to 15 minutes after baking, to let any water and/or olive oil (from the pesto filling) redistribute. Slice & serve; we loved it with a small side salad!

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a tale of two galettes: sweet & savory sweet: blackberry & thyme galette

(makes one medium dessert-sized galette, about 8 to 9� in size)

ingredients

1 single pie crust, rolled out to approximately 9 or 10� in diameter 12 oz blackberries (if making a larger galette, be sure to size up to 16 or 18 oz) 1/8 cup white sugar 1/8 cup brown sugar Juice of 1/2 lemon + zest of 1 lemon 1 tsp cornstarch 1/2 tsp thyme leaves 1 whole egg

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Jess’s Thoughts!

A quick word: each of these galettes depends on my favorite pie crust technique & recipe, in detail here & here, to help you achieve pie perfection. I make a few pie crusts in advance & freeze them, so I always have some on hand. If you're substituting your own dough recipe, just be sure to check that your thickness & size align with the recipes listed below so that you have enough filling to build your galette.


let’s get cooking 1. Preheat your oven to 375 degrees. Flour a flat surface and roll your pie crust into a circle approximately 9 to 10" in diameter. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or a silpat sheet and place in the fridge. 2. Combine blackberries, white sugar, brown sugar, lemon juice and lemon zest in a small bowl. Use a spoon or fork to mix and macerate the berries, slightly crushing them to release the juices. 3. Add cornstarch and thyme leaves to your blackberries. Mix lightly to distribute the cornstarch. 4. Pull your dough out the fridge. Using a large spoon, spread the blackberry filling on to your dough, making an even layer all the way around, stopping an inch before the edge (all the way around your circle). 5. Using the fold method from pie crust 201, fold the dough around the filling, creasing along the folds to make sure the dough stays during baking. 6. Quickly whisk the egg (white & yolk) in a cup or small bowl. Brush egg over the dough. 7. Bake at 375 degrees for about 45 minutes, or until the blackberry center is bubbling. Check the galette after 15 to 20 minutes for crust browning; if the galette crust is already a shiny golden brown, tent with foil for the remainder of baking. 8. Let the galette rest for 10 to 15 minutes after baking. Slice & serve (try it with some ice cream!).

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pie crust 101: it’s all about the butter all butter flaky pie crust

(makes two single crusts, one double crust, two small sized or one large galette)

ingredients

2 1/2 cups flour 1 tsp salt 8 oz quality unsalted butter 4 to 8 tbsp cold water

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let’s get cooking First, measure and mix the dry ingredients. A note on measuring flour: I use the scoop and level method—scoop deep into your flour container with the measuring cup, then use your finger to lightly level it off. I don't worry too much about it being absolutely perfect; people have been making pies since way before the invention of the digital scale. I like to recognize if my dough is too wet or too dry the easy way—by touching it! I may have mentioned this already, but it’s all about the butter, baby. Amazing pie crusts are made by the quality of your butter, and how well it’s cut into your dry mix. I love Lurpak or Kerrygold, both of which have low moisture content and a really rich flavor. Pull your butter out and dice it into cubes. I usually cut the butter right on the wrapper, and then pop it right back into the fridge to rechill. If it’s a hot day, I’d recommend putting it into the freezer instead—it’ll only be for a few minutes, but keeping that butter super cold is key. After about 5 minutes, pull out your butter and drop into your dry ingredients. I recommend a pastry cutter (what I’m using in the pictures here) as the best way to cut the butter into your flour. If you don’t have one, two forks (use a cutting and shredding motion) can work in a pinch. Use a rolling method with your pastry cutter, pressing down from the back (near the base of your palm) to the front, working the butter into any floury patches in your bowl. Keep working the mix until the butter is the size of small peas (there will be lots of little flakes too), like below. If it’s a hot day, or if you feel like you’re overworking your butter (and it’s softening), you can also rechill during this stage—put your whole bowl into the freezer for a few minutes, then continue. Another tip that you’re close to the right consistency: run a spoon through the tines of your pastry cutter. If the dough crumbles easily off the cutter & your spoon, you’re good. If your spoon is still catching large chunks of butter, keep mixing! Add 4 tbsp of cold water to your bowl, using a spoon to work the dough together. If the dough is still dry and separated, slowly add some additional water, 1 tbsp at a time. It’s important here to go slow—the flour will continue to distribute the moisture even after it’s first absorbed, so you want to try to bring it all together after each addition. When the dough starts to look chunky (see below), I like to put my hand in it and try to press it together. You want to be quick, so you don’t melt the butter, but see if a knead or two is all it needs. If it starts to feel sticky, then it’s too wet—add a pinch or two more of flour to balance it out. Using your hands, form the dough into a disk and wrap in plastic wrap or tin foil. Keep your dough in the fridge for up to 3 or 4 days; otherwise, seal again with a freezer bag and freeze for up to 6 months.

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carrot top & hemp seed pesto (makes about 2 cups of pesto)

ingredients

2 bunches carrot tops (roughly 4 or 5 cups chopped) 3 small cloves garlic 1 meyer lemon 3 tbsp hemp seeds 3/4 tsp salt 1/2 tsp pepper 1 cup olive oil

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let’s get cooking 1. Roughly chop the carrot tops; set aside. 2. Add garlic, hemp seeds, salt and pepper into the blender. Juice the meyer lemon directly into the blender. 3. Add carrot tops to the blender, then drizzle olive oil over the carrot tops, soaking the greens. 4. Start the blender on low for about 30 seconds, slowly increasing speed to medium high as the motor starts to pick up the carrot tops. If needed, use the tamper on your blender to push down the greens and eliminate any oxygen bubbles. 5. Blend on high for 2 to 3 minutes, until the carrot tops and garlic are fully incorporated. 5. Add additional salt, pepper or lemon to taste. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to a week and a half

Jess’s Thoughts!

I use my Vitamix to make pesto & other spreads, but a word of caution—if you're using carrot tops or other stringy greens to make pesto (i.e. fennel fronds, dill, etc.), then make sure to roughly chop these before dropping them in your blender. Long stalky greens can wrap around the metal piece at the bottom, damaging your motor (and your pesto will be stringy & chunky). If you're using a food processor, this is usually less of an issue; the wider base helps everything spread out. I use hemp seeds in this recipe as a substitution for pine nuts—they add the same nutty taste, but are packed full of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. You can find hemp seeds in the loose grains aisle of Whole Foods or your local health store, but otherwise, feel free to substitute an equal amount of traditional pine nuts!

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lamb coconut curry with roasted cauliflower (makes enough to serve 4 for dinner) total prep & cook time: 45 minutes to prep, 1 hour to cook

ingredients

lamb coconut curry: 1 tsp whole cardamom (pods or ground up pieces are ok) 1/2 tsp whole cloves (you can use ground also) 1 tsp curry powder for paste + 1 tsp addt’l, reserved 1 tsp cumin seeds + 1/2 tsp addt’l, reserved 1/2 tsp cinnamon + 1/2 tsp addt’l, reserved 1 1/2 tsp salt, plus more to taste 1/2 tsp pepper

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3 tsp olive oil + 1 tbsp addt’l, reserved 3 cloves garlic, peeled 1 shallot 2 tsp ginger, peeled 2 large carrots, peeled 3 or 4 small yukon gold potatoes, peeled 1 lb lamb shoulder or leg, cubed 1 14oz can of coconut milk 4 or 5 large stewed tomatoes (~1 can of marzano, with liquid drained), roughly chopped 1 lime 1 fresh red chili (optional)

cauliflower base: 1 head cauliflower, cut into small florets 1 tsp olive oil 1/2 tsp salt 1/2 tsp pepper


let’s get cooking 1. In a food processor or blender, combine cardamon, cloves, 2 tsp curry powder, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 1/2 tsp cinnamon, 1 1/2 tsp salt, 1/2 tsp pepper, 3 tsp olive oil, garlic, shallots and ginger. Blend until the consistency resembles a thick paste. If too thick, thin slightly with olive oil. Set aside. 2. Prepare the lamb and vegetables—cube the lamb and peel & roughly chop the carrots and potato. Crush or roughly chop the stewed tomatoes. 3. In a medium dutch oven or soup pot, add the reserved curry powder, cumin seeds and cinnamon and toast over low heat. Toast for approximately 1 to 2 minutes, stirring frequently until the spices release aroma. 4. Add 1 tsp of olive oil to the spices, then add lamb pieces to the pot to brown. I suggest doing this in two batches, so that the lamb isn’t crowded & browns nicely. Cook each batch for about 1 minute per side, then remove the lamb from the pot and set aside. 5. Add curry paste to the pot and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the paste is bubbling. Juice the lime directly into the dutch oven, using a wooden spoon to deglaze the bottom of the pot (picking up all those brown bits adds to the flavor!). 6. Add the tomatoes, lamb, potatoes, carrots, chili (if using) & coconut milk to the pot. Stir until evenly combined. 7. Bring the curry to a boil, then reduce to simmer. Cook with cover for 45 minutes to an hour, until the vegetables are soft and the lamb is cooked through. Cook an additional 10 to 15 minutes uncovered to thicken the sauce, if needed. 8. While the lamb curry is simmering, cut the cauliflower into small florets and toss with olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast in the oven at 400 degrees for approximately 10 to 15 minutes, until cauliflower is cooked through and slightly golden. 9. Serve with a bed of cauliflower and lamb curry spooned over. Add yogurt or dill as an optional garnish.

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the perfect roast chicken (makes one full chicken, enough to serve 2 to 4 based on weight) total prep & cook time: 15 minutes to prep, 1 1/2 to 2 hours to cook, based on size

ingredients

1 full chicken (fryers, broilers or fancy organic—they all work!) Coarse kosher salt 2 to 4 tbsp unsalted butter (pull it out early to soften) Kitchen twine

Jess’s Thoughts!

optional vegetables: 3 or 4 large carrots, roughly chopped 1 white onion, roughly chopped Other good options, based on the season: leeks, shallots, yukon gold potatoes, turnips, parsnips

This chicken is inspired (but not adapted) from my culinary idol, Thomas Keller (#TK). His roast chicken is all about no butter or liquid, as he believes that adds excess steam in the oven during the roasting process, and keeps the chicken from getting a great crispy skin. I’ve tried his way (and still do sometimes to re-experiment), but I’m still a butter-rub girl—the extra steam is, in my opinion, worth the cost, because it creates the juiciest chicken meat I’ve ever had. Plus, the butter & juices running off the chicken cook and glaze any veggies you leave underneath—something truly magical happens under that chicken (you’ll see).

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let’s get cooking 1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Roughly chop any veggies you plan on placing underneath. Spread evenly throughout the bottom of a large roasting pan (or ceramic dish). 2. Wash the chicken with cold water and dry completely (including the internal cavity). 3. Truss the chicken—this is a critical step! Learning to truss helps your chicken cook evenly & stay juicy inside... if you don't have twine, a looped bit of white string or thread will do in a pinch. Place the chicken onto the counter breast side up, with the legs pointing towards you. To start, hold your twine in the middle, with the string horizontal. Press the twine where the chicken's neck would be, pulling the string down around sides of the chicken to tuck in the wings. Then cross the string just under the bottom of the chicken breasts, using the string to get under the breasts & plump then up. Then, loop the strings around the bottom of each drumstick, crossing and bringing together the bottom of the drumsticks. I cheat a little in the photo below... instead of plumping the breasts, I just pulled the twine straight down to the drumsticks. Plumping is better— don't be like me! :P 4. Using your hands, rub the butter all over the chicken. Cover both sides and all the folds (for example, in between the wing and the body). Massage the butter into the skin so it’s evenly covered. If you’d like, you can add a pat or two of additional butter on top of the chicken just before baking as well. 5. Make it rain with the coarse sea salt—seriously. Salt from about a foot above the chicken & do so aggressively—the chicken meat can take a lot of salt, and this will help the skin crisp up nicely. 6. Place the chicken over the bed of vegetables and place in the oven. Cook for at least an hour and 15 minutes, until the internal temperature reaches 165 degrees. Larger chickens make require up to 2 hours— don’t be worried. If the top of the chicken is browning too quickly, tent with foil for the remainder of the cooking time. 7. Once at temperature, pull chicken out and let cool. Butcher using a sharp knife, and serve with vegetables from underneath.

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chimmichurri steak with spicy sweet potato mash (makes enough to serve 2 for dinner, with a little left over for someone’s lunch) total prep & cook time: 30 to 40 minutes

ingredients

steak & marinade (marinade optional): 1 lb flap or skirt steak (size up to 1.5 or 2 lbs if you want leftovers for steak & eggs!) 1/2 cup red wine 1/3 cup olive oil for marinade + reserve 1 tbsp for cooking 1 tsp sugar (brown ideal, white ok as a substitute) 1 tsp flaky salt Several dashes of red pepper flakes 1 clove minced garlic (substitute

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chimmichurri sauce: 1 cup parsley 2 to 3 tbsp fresh oregano 2 to 3 garlic cloves 1/2 serrano pepper (use half here & half in the mash) 1 tbsp champagne or white wine vinegar 1 tsp flaky sea salt 1/2 tsp pepper (freshly cracked makes a difference, if you have a pepper mill!) 1/2 cup olive oil, plus a little extra as needed

sweet potato mash: 1 large sweet potato 1/2 serrano pepper about 1 cup milk 2 tbsp unsalted butter 1 tbsp sugar 1 tsp salt, plus more to taste 1/2 tsp pepper


let’s get cooking 1. If marinading your steak (it's optional)—combine all marinade ingredients in a ziploc bag and shake to mix. Add steak and set aside, at room temperature. Your meat won't go bad sitting at room temp for a little while—actually, it will adjust to room temp (this is calling 'tempering'), helping it get a better sear & lock in more flavor when you cook it! If not marinading—pull your steak out of the fridge to temper while you prep. 2. Peel and roughly cube the sweet potato. Fill a small or medium pot halfway full with water and season heavily with salt. Add sweet potato and set over medium heat to boil. 3. While the sweet potato is cooking, finely mince the serrano pepper. Add half to a small bowl, set the remainder aside. 4. Pull parsley and oregano off the stems; finely mince both (really get small, to work the essential oils out of the herbs). Add to the bowl with serrano pepper. Mince garlic and add to the bowl as well. 5. Add vinegar, salt, pepper and olive oil to the bowl. Mix with a spoon. If you have a pestle, use it to mash the mixture together to further break down the herbs and release their perfumes into the oil. If you don't have a pestle, use a spoon to try to mash together the garlic & herbs. Set aside. 6. Remove the sweet potato from heat after about 10 to 15 minutes, when you can easily pierce a piece with a fork. Strain out the water and add the potatoes back to the pot. Using a fork or potato masher, mash the sweet potato until you achieve your desired consistency. (Some people like smooth, some like chunky—I leave it to you!) 7. Add milk, butter, sugar, salt, pepper and the reserved 1/2 serrano pepper to the pot. Place the mixture back over low heat and stir frequently, until butter is completely melted and the mixture is evenly combined. Add additional sugar or salt to taste. Once warmed through, set aside. 8. Add 1 tbsp olive oil to a skillet (cast iron is best here!) and place over high heat. Once the oil is simmering (flick some water at it as a test), add steak to the pan. Don't touch it! After 2 minutes, flip to the other side. Cook for additional 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, then remove the steak to a plate or cutting board to rest. 9. After the steak has rested about 5 minutes, slice with the grain. Serve over a pile of sweet potatoes, with chimmichurri sauce poured over.

Jess’s Thoughts!

Here's what happens when you discover a new perfect weeknight dinner: (1) you forget to take any pictures, only remembering a single photo when your husband looks at you, totally confused, (2) you don't take a single measurement, because it just 'feels' right, and (3) you eat the whole thing in 5 seconds flat, only stopping for a single rapid-fire "yum". Let's call that: success! So, this is my long way of saying, I'm sorry. There's only one lonely shiny photo in this post, but, to quote my favorite guilty pleasure (#bachelorette), it was for the right reasons. Maybe that's the signature of a really great weeknight meal—it comes together (and gets happily demolished) super quickly and pain-free, but is still totally satisfying. So really, you're welcome. :) Happy mid-week cooking!

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sea bream with mustard, herbs & lemon (makes about enough for 2, to share) total prep & cook time: one hour

ingredients

sea bream: 1 sea bream (or daurade) fish, scaled and gutted 2 bulbs spring onion, sliced thinly 2 cloves garlic, sliced thinly 1 lemon, sliced thinly + additional lemon for juice & zest 1 cup parsley, chopped roughly 1 bay leaf 1 tsp dijon mustard (I used whole grain dijon, but you can use ground) 1 small shallot, diced Salt & pepper, to taste

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vegetables: 1 pint cherry tomatoes 5 or 6 whole carrots, roughly chopped

Jess’s Thoughts!

1 tsp olive oil 1/2 tsp white sugar Salf & pepper, to taste

I paired the fish with some caramelized carrots and oven-blistered cherry tomatoes, but any sweet, summer vegetable will pair nicely here. This dinner is all of the best parts of July—simple, quick to clean up, light and yet, utterly satisfying. Enjoy the holiday, and go catch some fireworks!


let’s get cooking 1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Prepare your ingredients: thinly slice the spring onion, garlic and lemon, and dice the shallot. Wash the sea bream inside & out, and use a paper towel to dry. 2. Lay down a large sheet of aluminum foil, placing the fish on top. Rub the mustard all over the inside cavity of the fish and season the cavity with salt and pepper. Fill the cavity with the diced shallot, then gently close. 3. Season the fish on top with several large pinches of salt and pepper, then cover the fish with the sliced spring onion, garlic, lemon and parsley. Make sure to distribute the herbs and onion all over the top of the fish. 4. Using the extra lemon, sprinkle several drops of lemon juice over the top of the fish, then zest approximately half of the lemon on top. 5. Cover the fish with another piece of aluminum foil, sealing the edges all the way around to create a tight pouch. Place the fish in the oven and bake for 25 minutes. 6. While the fish is cooking, prep your vegetable sides. Toss the carrots (cut into a rough chop) with 1/2 tsp olive oil, 1/2 tsp white sugar and several pinches of salt and pepper. Add to a small baking dish and place in the oven. Carrots will be done after about 15 minutes, when you can easily pierce them with a fork. 7. Toss the tomatoes in 1/2 tsp olive oil and several pinches of salt and pepper, then place on a baking sheet or cast iron and place into the oven. Remove the tomatoes after they have baked & are blistered, about 10 minutes. 8. Check on your vegetables and remove when ready. After cooking for 25 minutes, remove the fish from the oven, and carefully open the foil pouch. Let cool for at least 5 minutes. 9. Using a sharp knife, carefully slice all the way down the bottom of the fish (following the original knife cut that gutted the fish), opening the flesh and allowing you to remove the big central bone. 10. Debone the remainder of the fish, including the spinal bones at the top and bottom of the fish, and small rib bones throughout. If you don’t have fish tweezers, you can pull the smaller rib bones out of the flesh as you eat, but be sure to be careful! 11. Section off the filet on the fish into equal portions and serve alongside roasted vegetables.

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thomas keller inspired ratatouille (confit byaldi) (makes 4 entree-sized servings) total prep & cook time: 1 1/2 to 2 hours

ingredients

1 28oz can san marzano crushed tomatoes 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 shallot 1 tsp sugar 1 tsp salt 1/2 tsp cracked pepper 1 tsp thyme (optional) 1 tsp oregano (fresh if you have it, dried if not) 1 japanese eggplant (the long skinny ones)

Jess’s Thoughts!

1 long green zucchini (I buy 2 little ones, since our store doesn't carry long squash) 1 long yellow squash (same as above on sizing) 1 tbsp olive oil Addt'l olive oil and balsamic to drizzle 1 tsp goat cheese per serving, to finish Parchment paper, cut to the size of your baking dish

A traditional confit byaldi makes a piperade base (a pepper-based sauce) and adds tomatoes and peppers to the layered vegetables. I simplify the sauce to a classic tomato, and let it come together on its own while the complete dish cooks in the oven (why use an extra pot?). Additionally, I remove the peppers and tomatoes from the layered vegetables, because I don't love the texture of either after a long cooking process... the soft bite of the eggplant, zucchini and squash is far more satisfying. If you're looking to emulate the classic, add those back in, but be sure to keep the slices a little thicker so that they don't totally fall apart in the oven.

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let’s get cooking 1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Clean garlic cloves and smash using the back of your knife. Roughly mince and set aside. Clean the shallot and dice into small pieces; set aside with the garlic. 2. Into a large baking dish (I use an 8 x 10 Le Creuset casserole dish), add the crushed tomatoes, sugar, salt, cracked pepper, thyme and oregano. Use a spoon to combine evenly in the base of the dish. Sprinkle garlic and shallots over the sauce, distributing evenly. Set baking dish aside. 3. Thinly slice the eggplant, zucchini and squash to about 1/2 centimeter in thickness. If you have one, use a mandoline for even slices... if not, go slowly and carefully with your knife. Discard any end slices that are dramatically larger or smaller than the average round. 4. Starting at one edge of the baking dish, arrange the slices of eggplant, zucchini and squash, layering the slices onto the sauce with overlap. Vary the pieces in a pattern (eggplant, then zucchini, then squash, repeat) for a pretty pattern and even flavor. 5. Sprinkle another pinch of salt and pepper on top, and drizzle with 1 tbsp of olive oil. Cut a piece of parchment paper to fit inside your baking dish, and carefully place over the vegetables. 6. Bake for at least 60 minutes (go up to 90 minutes if your slices were thicker!), until the sauce is bubbling up at the sides and the vegetables are soft when pierced with a fork. Make sure to check the yellow squash, as it can be squeaky when undercooked. 7. Serve warm (stacked in a fancy circle, if you're emulating the movie!) alone or over a small bed of quinoa. Top with goat cheese, if desired.

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red wine braised short ribs with polenta (makes 4 entree-sized servings) total prep & cook time: 2 hours

ingredients

for the braise: 6 to 8 beef short ribs Salt & pepper, to season short ribs 1 tbsp olive oil 3 large carrots 1/2 white onion 3 stalks celery 3 cloves garlic 1 tbsp tomato paste 3/4 to 1 cup quality red wine about 1 cup vegetable broth, to cover 1 tsp salt 1/2 tsp fresh cracked pepper bay leaves (optional—but great if you have some!)

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polenta: 1 cup polenta 4 cups water 1 tsp salt 2 tbsp unsalted butter 1/2 cup shredded parmesan cheese

Jess’s Thoughts!

A braise is the star of the dutch oven recipe possibilities, and is guaranteed to be the star of your dinner table. Do a little work up front, then kick back with a movie (and the rest of that bottle of red...) and wait for the amazing results. I add a little polenta as the base here (and it’s the perfect pairing), but these short ribs would go equally well over some egg yolk noodles, wild rice or on a crusty roll as a messy sandwich. Make sure to get all that sauce—it’s the good stuff.


let’s get cooking

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Dice carrots and celery, and roughly chop white onion. Clean garlic cloves and smash with the side of your knife; set aside. 2. Season all sides of the short ribs with some salt and pepper and let rest. While the meat is tempering (coming to room temperature... helping you get better color on the meat), heat 1 tbsp of olive oil in a dutch oven, over medium high heat. 3. Once the oil is heated (it’ll start to crackle in the dutch oven), add short ribs, in batches, browning about 1 minute on each side. After short ribs are browned, remove from the pot and set aside. 4. Add carrots, celery, onion and garlic to the pot. Reduce heat to medium low and stir to coat vegetables in the leftover meat cracklings and oil. 5. Add tomato paste and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until vegetables start to gain color and melt. Add red wine and deglaze the bottom of the dutch oven (this means you rub a wooden spoon against the bottom, using the reaction of the wine to scrap up all the tasty brown bits stuck to the base of the pot!). 6. Add short ribs, tucking them in and distributing them amongst the vegetables. Add vegetable broth, stopping when the short ribs are just covered (about 1 cup in my dutch oven, but increase quantity as needed). Add bay leaves (if using). 7. Bring to boil, then reduce to simmer. Cover and place in the preheated oven. Cook short ribs for 1 1/2 hours, removing from heat once or twice (max!) to check on the stew and stir meat around as needed (make sure all the pieces are getting time in the broth mixture, for a perfect braise). 8. When the braise is about 30 minutes away from being done, start the polenta. Bring 4 cups water and 1 tsp salt to boil in a saucepot or heavy-bottomed pot. 9. Once boiling, stir in polenta, whisking to eliminate any clumps. Cook uncovered over medium heat for 5 minutes, whisking or stirring frequently. The polenta will start to thicken, but still be relatively soupy. 10. Cover polenta and continue to cook over medium low heat for 25 to 30 minutes. Check on it and stir every 5 minutes or so to keep the polenta from sticking to the bottom. 11. Remove polenta from heat and add butter and parmesan. Whip the polenta to a wooden spoon to thicken and mix evenly. Let the polenta rest for at least 5 minutes before serving. 12. Remove braise from heat and let cool. Serve over a bed of polenta, with braised meat and vegetables placed on top and braise liquid poured around.

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andrew’s fresh salmon rillettes (makes enough for 6 to 8 as an appetizer, 2 to 4 as an entree) total prep & cook time: about 45 minutes cooking time, longer for resting/cooling

ingredients

1 lb salmon filet, skin off 1/4 white onion, diced 1/2 shallot, diced 4 cups water Juice of 1/4 lemon 1/2 cup mayo 1/4 cup chives, diced 1/2 tbsp dill, finely diced Salt & pepper to taste

Jess’s Thoughts!

serve with: cornichons crackers, ideally ones with little or no added flavor (let the salmon shine) or toast points

My favorite part of cooking dinner every night—and I really do, probably an average of 5 or 6 nights a week— is that my husband, Andrew, loves to be in the kitchen with me. He has a genuine interest in whatever I'm making, new kitchen skills and experimenting with different recipes. His salmon rillettes are the result of some random brainstorming several weeks back, when it was too hot to cook and honestly, too hot to be in the kitchen at all. These make-ahead, high quality rillettes ended up being one of our favorite meals... served with some crackers and cornichons, it's also one of the easiest. Andrew's tweaks to the recipe he started with (online, naturally) have really made it his own... he skips unnecessary steps, keeps the fish the star and, overall, just makes it a really delicious, simple weeknight meal.

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let’s get cooking 1. If needed, skin the salmon and remove any pin bones using your hands or fish tweezers. Feel up and down the middle of your filet for any additional bones that may be hiding under the surface. 2. Salt and pepper the filet on both sides, aggressively. Make it rain (like seasoning a steak). Let the fish rest for about 5 minutes, seasoned. 3. Dice the onion and shallot and add to a small pot. Over medium heat (no oil or fat in the pot), melt the onions for 2 to 3 minutes, until soft. 4. Add the water to the pot of onions and bring to boil. While the water is boiling, cut the salmon filet into 1 inch square pieces. Add to the water. 5. Cook salmon pieces for roughly 5 minutes, until pink and opaque, then remove from heat and drain. 6. In a medium or large bowl, let the salmon come to room temperature, then place in the fridge to cool. Ideally, rest for at least 30 minutes at room temperature and then at least an hour in the fridge. 7. Remove the bowl from the fridge and add lemon juice, mayo, chives and dill. Add 1/2 tsp salt and 1/4 tsp pepper. Stir gently to combine, and then taste. Add additional salt as needed (I hesitate to specify an amount as sodium content in different mayos can vary widely). 8. Once seasoning is appropriate, mix until salmon is broken up into smaller pieces and all ingredients are thoroughly distributed. Be careful not to overmix—you want the salmon to still be chunky, and not turn into an unappetizing mash. 9. Serve cold, with cornichons and crackers or toast. Can be made up to three days ahead.

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my favorite food: summer borscht (cold beet soup) (makes one large soup pot, enough for approximately 6 bowls) total prep & cook time: about 2 hours, mostly simmer time

ingredients

5 or 6 medium sized red beets 6 cups water + 4 addt’l cups water, reserved 3/4 tbsp salt 3/4 tbsp sugar 1/2 cup dill

toppings (per serving): 1 hardboiled egg, diced 1 tbsp cucumber, diced 1 tbsp sour cream or yogurt

Jess’s Thoughts!

Borscht (otherwise known as beet soup) is another one of those frequently mocked Russian staples... the hot version includes cabbage (not a fan favorite, in most homes), it’s based on a weird vegetable and let’s face it, the color is borderline terrifying. But, I want you to give it a chance. Actually, no, I need you to give it a chance, but it is so, freaking, good. The cold version (none of that cabbage around here) is my favorite summer food... healthy, filling, flavorful and super refreshing. If you’re all BBQ’ed out from another long weekend, I beg you to give this pink guy a chance—you won’t regret it. Like many classic ethnic dishes, borscht is a food that has millions of versions and recipes, with each grandma claiming their “secret ingredient” yields the best results. This version is adapted (and simplified!) from my grandmother’s version, and is the ultimate ode to my childhood—for me, summer meant pool parties, ice cream and finally, finally convincing my grandma it was hot enough outside for some amazing cold borscht.

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let’s get cooking

1. Fill a large soup pot with 6 cups of water. Wash the beets under cold running water, rubbing to remove any dirt. Add beets to the pot and bring to boil. 2. Reduce to a strong simmer. Cook uncovered for approximately 1 1/2 hours, until you can easily pierce the beets with a fork. Larger beets may take closer to 2 hours, small beets closer to an hour. 3. Remove beets and place in a metal or glass bowl to cool. Strain the remaining water to remove any skins that may have fallen off, and then pour the water back into the original pot. This will serve as the base of your broth. 4. Add the additional 4 cups of water to the pot. Add the salt and sugar, and stir to combine. Leave the pot out or place in the fridge to cool (this soup is best when really cold, so if eating soon, definitely go for the fridge). 5. Once the beets are slightly cooled, working gently, use your hands or a paper towel to rub the skins off. Don’t worry if the root doesn’t come off, as you’ll be holding the beet at the root end while grating. Continue until all of the beets are peeled. Discard the skins. 6. Using a handheld grater, carefully grate each beet into a large bowl (I use the same bowl as before, and just remove the whole beets, placing them to the side of my workstation). Continue until all beets are grated. 7. Once the broth is cool, add the grated beets. Mince the dill (avoid the stems) and add to the broth as well. Keep cool until ready to serve. 8. Serve with traditional Russian toppings: diced hardboiled egg, diced cucumber and a dollop of sour cream or yogurt.

31


lamb chops with crispy smashed potatoes (makes enough for 2 as an entree) total prep & cook time: 2 hours (mostly no-work potato time)

ingredients

lamb: 1 rack of lamb, 1 to 2 lbs, at least 4 ribs wide (this serves 2... if you haven’t purchased lamb before, Saveur has a great guide here) kosher salt & fresh cracked pepper, to season 1 tbsp olive oil crispy potatoes: 6 small to medium sized potatoes (yukon gold or red skinned) 1/4 cup water salt & pepper, to taste several needles of rosemary (at least 3 to 4 needles per potato) 4 tbsp olive oil mustard & shallot sauce: 1/2 medium sized shallot several needles of rosemary (for aromatics) 2 tbsp olive oil OR 1 tbsp olive oil + 1 tbsp fat poured off from lamb skillet 1/2 tsp dijon mustard 1/2 tsp whole grain mustard (substitute more dijon if you don’t have whole grain) 1/4 tsp salt about 1/4 cup vegetable broth

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let’s get cooking 1. Start your potatoes early—preheat the oven as high as you're comfortable, ideally 475 to 500 degrees. Place the potatoes on a rimmed baking sheet, and fill with 1/4 cup water. Seal tightly with foil. Bake for 30 minutes, then remove and let cool (with foil on top) for 10 minutes longer. 2. Remove foil and smash each potato with a mallet or drinking glass. Make sure to expose the center of each potato, to maximize the surface area & all of those delicious crispy bits. Salt and pepper generously (make it rain!), then sprinkle with rosemary sprigs. Drizzle 4 tbsp olive oil over each potato, covering the potatoes completely. It seems like a lot of oil, but the fat helps you attain that golden crispiness on the outside, while the inside remains soft and buttery. Return to the oven, uncovered, for 40 minutes. 3. When the potatoes are almost complete, start your lamb. Temper the meat (lay it out at room temperature, so the meat isn't too cold) and season generously with salt and pepper. If you'd like to, "french" your rack, cleaning the meat and fat off of the rib bones. (We cheated and skipped this step... that extra fat can be really delicious!) 4. Turn the oven down to 400 degrees. (Your potatoes should be out by now!) Get a cast iron or heavy skillet piping hot, with 1 tbsp olive oil. Place the lamb fat side down and cook for 3 minutes, rendering off the fat pad. If you did not french the bones, use a utensil to press down on the bones to render the fat there as well, pressing and cooking an additional 30 seconds. 5. Flip lamb over, so that the fat faces up. Cook for an additional 2 minutes, then pour off most of the fat in the pan (save some for your sauce!). Finish in the oven (transfer to a baking sheet if needed) for 10 to 15 minutes for a smaller rack (the meat at the end of the rack is about 1/2 the size of your palm) or 20 minutes for a larger rack (the meat at the end of the rack is about the size of your palm). Before removing, use a meat thermometer to check that the temperature is at 125 degrees; if not, leave in for more time, checking every 2 minutes. 6. While the lamb is finishing, prepare your sauce. Add olive oil, reserved lamb fat (if using), rosemary and shallots to a small skillet or saucepot. Cook over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until shallots are softened and just starting to color. Turn down to low heat, then add dijon and whole grain mustards and salt. Cook for 30 seconds to release aromatics, then add vegetable broth. Cook for an additional 2 to 3 minutes, stirring frequently, until broth has mostly evaporated and sauce is thick and sticks to your spoon. Set aside. 7. Remove lamb from the oven and let rest on a cutting board for at least 10 minutes. Using a sharp knife, carve the rack into chops, cutting firmly in between each rib to separate. Plate potatoes and drizzle mustard sauce over (I added greens in between, for a little freshness, but this is optional). Arrange chops over and serve.

Jess’s Thoughts!

Last week, I was feeling another classic steak and potatoes meal, but wanted an updated version to reflect the changing seasons. This lamb dish is my attempt to do just that... the lamb is a little richer and funkier (if you're feeling adventurous, goat would be great too!) and a mustard-based sauce over crispy potatoes feels comforting, without totally weighing you down (not winter quite yet, friends). Each component of this meal would also work well on its own, or in different variations—try these crispy potatoes with a big pile of greens for a vegetarian option, or spoon the mustard shallot sauce over roasted chicken breasts or thighs for a play on dijon chicken. Mix, match and enjoy! 33


fall’s perfect pumpkin soup (makes 4 large bowls) total prep & cook time: 1 hour

ingredients

1 medium sized sugar pie pumpkin (can substitute kabocha squash also) 1/2 yellow onion, roughly chopped 1 carrot, peeled and roughly chopped 3 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed ~3 tbsp olive oil 1/2 tsp salt + 1/2 tsp salt + more to taste 1/2 tsp cinnamon 1/2 tsp nutmeg 1/8 tsp cloves (optional) 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper (optional, but adds some amazing heat!)

Jess’s Thoughts!

1/2 tsp + 1/4 tsp cracked black pepper 3 to 3 1/2 cups vegetable broth 1/2 tbsp sugar OR 1 tbsp maple syrup 1/2 to 1 cup heavy cream (optional, but I don’t recommend skipping it... substitute option: coconut milk or 2% or whole milk) Toppings, if desired: pumpkin seeds (directions below), green pepitas, chives or goat cheese

Any amazing soup needs depth of flavor, and building that flavor takes a little bit more time, and a little bit more love. Roast and caramelize your pumpkin to build natural sweetness, even though you could just use canned pumpkin puree. Build a mirepoix, even though you could just add puree to broth. And, even if you’re trying to keep it healthy, add a dollop of something creamy—coconut milk can substitute if you’re staying strict or vegan—because that hint of dairy goes a long way towards making this a velvety soup, vs. a watered down squash puree. Perfect your pumpkin soup, and you won’t regret it.

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let’s get cooking

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Slice the pumpkin in half and scoop out the insides. If making roasted pumpkin seeds, set aside; otherwise, discard. Cut pumpkin halves into several large chunks (improves even cooking and more caramelization) and toss with 1 tbsp olive oil, 1/2 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp cracked pepper. Pour pumpkin onto a baking sheet and place in the oven to roast, about 20 to 30 minutes, until the meat gives easily when pierced with a fork. Make ahead: you can roast the pumpkin in advance and then refrigerate until you’re ready to cook your soup! 2. If roasting pumpkin seeds: remove seeds from pumpkin insides by running under water, over a colander. Place seeds on a paper towel and pat dry. If roasting to eat alone, this will get the seeds dry enough. If roasting to include in soup, dry out overnight. Quickly toss seeds in a pinch of olive oil, and spread out on a baking sheet. Salt heavily, and lightly season with pepper. Bake for 5 to 10 minutes at 375 degrees, checking frequently, until the seeds are golden brown and crunchy. 3. Build your soup: chop carrots, onions and garlic. This mirepoix will serve as the flavor base for your soup. Add to a pot, with 1 tbsp of olive oil and 1/2 tsp salt. Add cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, cayenne pepper and 1/4 tsp pepper. Adding the spices early helps toast them, drawing out more complex flavors (and making your house smell amazing!). Cook over medium low heat for 3 to 5 minutes, until onions are melted and carrots are soft. 4. Add pumpkin to the pot, using a spoon to scoop the meat off of the skin. Add vegetable broth (start with 3 cups and reserve the remaining 1/2 cup if needed) and bring to boil. Reduce to simmer and cook the pumpkin a little longer, making the meat as soft as possible to avoid a grainy puree, and helping to marry the flavors together. 5. Once the soup has simmered for 15 minutes, turn off the heat. Use an immersion blender or Vitamix to puree the soup (if using Vitamix, let cool, and cover the lid opening with a damp cloth while pureeing). Blend until completely smooth. 6. Add sugar or maple syrup and heavy cream (or coconut milk, if substituting). Mix thoroughly with a wooden spoon. If the soup appears grainy, add slightly more cream. If the soup is too thick and puree-like, add the remaining 1/2 cup of vegetable broth. Taste and add additional seasoning, if desired. Serve plain, or with suggested toppings.

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the humble cauliflower & quinoa bowl (makes 2 entree-sized servings) total prep & cook time: 45 minutes

ingredients

1/2 cup uncooked quinoa 1 head cauliflower, chopped into florets 2 tbsp olive oil 1 shallot, diced 1/2 cup pistachios, shelled 1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese or cotija

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1 1/2 tbsp champagne or white wine vinegar 1 1/2 tbsp cold water 1 tsp white sugar 1 tsp + several pinches ofsalt Pepper, to taste


let’s get cooking 1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. First, cook your quinoa—add 1/2 cup uncooked quinoa and 1 cup water to a small saucepot. Add a pinch of salt. Bring to boil, then cover and simmer until quinoa is soft and fluffy (about 15 minutes). If quinoa seems cooked through but you still have a lot of water in the pot, uncover and slightly increase heat, to cook off excess moisture. 2. Cut the cauliflower down into small sized florets. Scrape florets and all small pieces (stalks are ok—just remove the green leaves) into a large bowl. Add 1 tbsp olive oil and several pinches of salt and pepper and toss to coat. Pour cauliflower out on to a baking sheet and set the whole aside. Roast cauliflower, turning occasionally, until cauliflower starts to caramelize and is cooked through, about 30 to 40 minutes. 3. While cauliflower is roasting, combine 1 tsp salt, sugar, vinegar and cold water in a small bowl. Mix until sugar and salt are dissolved. Add diced shallot and stir to coat. Place in the fridge to pickle, until ready to assemble. 4. Pour pistachios into a small bag, and use a mallet or knife handle to crush into small pieces. Pour pistachios into the large bowl (that you used to toss cauliflower). Add the cooked quinoa and feta cheese. 5. Once cauliflower is cooled, add it to the large bowl. Pull shallots out of the fridge, and strain out from the pickling liquid. Add shallots to the bowl. Add 1 tbsp of the pickling liquid and 1 tbsp olive oil. Using a wooden spoon, toss the combine. Add additional seasoning to taste, as needed. Serve.

Jess’s Thoughts!

Everyone has a dinner recipe that's a go to... something you make when you're tired, maybe a little uninspired and definitely not worried about making a picture-perfect plate. This simple, humble and still totally delicious cauliflower and quinoa bowl is that recipe for me... so easy that we even shorten the name to get there faster: "cauli bowls" tonight, please. I know a lot of you are already quinoa lovers... the amazing high-protein "ancient grain" has become pretty common in recipes and on supermarket shelves. We make a lot of quinoa at home too—it's great as a replacement for rice or pasta, or to add some heft to a big dinner salad. I do, however, think that it's pretty easy to get "quinoa'ed out"; a lot of times, people use it as a backdrop for the other delicious component of the meal, and it can be somewhat tasteless or mushy if it's cooked poorly. Using quinoa in a grain bowl helps separate the grains and add texture, without sacrificing taste (and adding all that protein!). Pack a flavor punch with your mix-ins, like salty, umami-heavy pistachios and sweet and sour pickled shallots.

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lablabi (tunisian chickpea stew) (makes enough for 2, with leftovers or for 4, with a small side dish) total prep & cook time: about 1 hour

ingredients

1 white onion, diced 1 tsp ground cumin 1/4 tsp cumin seeds 1/2 tsp turmeric 1/2 tsp chili powder 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper (exclude if you don’t like spicy foods) 1 tsp salt 1/2 tsp cracked black pepper 2 tbsp olive oil 3 cloves garlic, smashed and minced 1 lemon, zested + juiced 2 15 oz cans chickpeas, rinsed and drained

Jess’s Thoughts!

8 to 10 tiny yukon gold or colorful potatoes, sliced in half 2 fresh bay leaves 2 cups vegetable broth + more as needed 1 bell pepper, chopped into medium sized pieces 3 to 4 eggs harissa, for garnish (optional) crusty bread, for garnish (optional) quinoa, buckwheat or bulgur wheat (optional)

One final note: I also cheat a little by using chickpeas out of the can... if you have the time, soak dried chickpeas overnight and cook before the rest of this recipe. Once the chickpeas are cooked, use the cooking liquid (yum) to build your stew instead of adding additional broth. Or, if you're a little lazy and a little hungry, open a can of chickpeas... I won't tell anyone you did.

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let’s get cooking 1. Combine diced onion, cumin, cumin seeds, turmeric, chili powder, cayenne pepper, salt, pepper, olive oil, garlic and lemon zest in a dutch oven or heavy bottomed pot. Place over medium heat and cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until onions are softened and spices are toasted. 2. Add chickpeas, potatoes, bay leaves and vegetable broth. Broth should just cover the mixture, so that the potatoes can cook through. Juice lemon directly into the stew. Bring to boil, then reduce to a strong simmer. Cook uncovered for 20 minutes, adding broth as needed to keep the water level. Stir every 5 minutes or so to keep the bottom from sticking. 3. After 20 minutes, taste the broth using a small spoon and add additional seasoning, if desired. Add bell peppers to the stew (this keeps them from getting too mushy) and stir. At this stage, you don't need to keep the water level just over the chickpeas and potatoes—if your stew is relatively soupy, stop adding additional broth. If your stew is thickening quickly, add more broth to thin it out. It should be about the consistency of chili, but if you're looking for something more soup-like, then feel free to be more aggressive with additional liquid. 4. If coddling or poaching eggs, start doing so in a separate pot after adding the bell peppers. Otherwise, crack eggs directly onto the stew (do not stir!) and cover dutch oven with a lid or aluminum foil. Check eggs and stew in 5 minutes—if eggs are set, turn off the heat. If eggs are not yet set, re-cover and cook for an additional 3 minutes. 5. Remove stew from heat and let cool. Serve with optional garnishes: crusty bread, harissa paste or quinoa/ buckwheat underneath!

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fridge dive / pantry raid veggie soup 1. Build a flavor base 2. Add some veggie variety 3. Work on your broth 4. Simmer & serve!

ingredients

Onions—yellow, sweet, white, cippolini, shallots all work! Avoid red onions as they wash out unattractively during the cooking process Garlic Ginger (garlic + ginger + chili pepper = amazing Asian) Toasted spices—think a dash of cinnamon or nutmeg for fall soups, or a dash of oregano or parsley for a lighter, brothy soup

Carrots (onions + carrots + celery = classic mirepoix) Celery Not-too-spicy chili peppers (mince very finely, to avoid a mushy piece of pepper later on)

Build a flavor base Every great soup requires some form of mirepoix, the mixture of roughly chopped veggies & aromatics that gives you a huge boost on flavor. Any of the below will work, so use what you have, with some restraint based on the overall theme that you’re going for. Roughly mince your ingredients, toss them all into a big stock pot with 1 to 2 tbsp of olive oil and cook over medium low heat for 3 to 5 minutes, until you can smell the release of aromatics in the air. Unless you’re opposed, always have some form of onion (yellow, white, shallots) on hand, as melty onions add that extra umami that every great soup needs. Onions—yellow, sweet, white, cippolini, shallots all work! Avoid red onions as they wash out unattractively during the cooking process Garlic Ginger (garlic + ginger + chili pepper = amazing Asian) Toasted spices—think a dash of cinnamon or nutmeg for fall soups, or a dash of oregano or parsley for a lighter, brothy soup Carrots (onions + carrots + celery = classic mirepoix) Celery Not-too-spicy chili peppers (mince very finely, to avoid a mushy piece of pepper later on)

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let’s get cooking

Add some veggie variety This is, as my husband would say, “the good stuff.” The best fridge dive soups are the ones with the greatest (and even strangest) variety of veggies inside... after all, the point is to clean out your fridge! Aim for some variety of textures... you want some crunch (leftover peppers are great here), some thickeners (noodles, rice or beans) and some soft (zucchini, squashes, potatoes, other soft veggies). You don’t need a lot of any individual item; again, the goal is to use what you have! Chop all of your selections into a small, even dice—this helps promote even cooking. Also, think about your desired textures when you layer your add-ins to your soup—if you want crunchy bell peppers, don’t add them in the beginning, or they’ll turn to mush. Similarly, noodles or pasta should be added at the very end, so that they don’t overcook as the soup continues to simmer. Soft (just examples—trust your imagination!): zucchini, potatoes, squash (of all kinds!), mushrooms, stewed tomatoes Crunch (add at the last minute!): bell peppers or other sweet peppers, herbs Thickeners: beans, rice, noodles—add beans and rice early, as beans are best broken down and the rice needs time to cook... add noodles / pasta at the very end, so that they don’t overcook Work on your broth Broth is a layering exercise—you’re using various liquids and/or purees to thicken and provide the background for your soup, while the veggies cooking in your soup release flavor back into the broth. After your flavor base has cooked down and you’ve added your first round of veggies, add your broth elements—if possible, avoid using straight water, since it adds no flavor. I like to keep some store-bought vegetable broth on hand, so that even if I don’t have other stock to use, I have a liquid alternative that still adds something extra. Prepared stock/broth—store-bought works just fine (and I use it all the time), but see if you can get in the habit of keeping homemade stock on hand at home... whenever you have bones / shells / weird vegetable ends left over from a meal, throw everything into a pot, cover with water, and let simmer for a few hours... pour into a ziploc bag, freeze, and keep for a rainy (soup) day! Vegetable purees / diced tomatoes—I love to throw a can of crushed tomatoes into my fridge dive soup... adds thickness and flavor to the broth! Cream or coconut milk Water (last resort!) Simmer and serve Great soups are flavor machines—and the most important ingredient is time. After you’ve built your mirepoix / flavor base, added veggies and layered in your broth, bring the soup to boil, then reduce to simmer. Simmer (semi-covered, so the broth doesn’t over-evaporate) for at least 30 minutes, to let everything marry together. Stir every 10 minutes or so, so that the veggies don’t fall and stick to the bottom. If adding noodles, drop them in for the last 10 to 15 minutes of cook time. Don’t forget that a great fridge dive soup can include mix-ins—swirl in some leftover pesto, sour cream, yogurt and/or crunchy toppings like leftover slivered almonds or crackers. Happy experimenting!

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borrowed from seattle: sardine toasts with tomato aioli & fennel (makes about 16 small toasts, enough 4) total prep & cook time: 45 minutes

ingredients

8 to 10 plum tomatoes, cut in half 1/4 cup + 3 tbsp olive oil salt, to taste 1/4 tsp cumin seeds 1/4 tsp cracked black pepper 1/2 cup mayonnaise 1 long french baguette (you can make these like country-style toast, but I will always recommend, and personally prefer, the more bite-size crostini)

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1 fennel bulb, cleaned 1 tbsp chopped dill 1 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley 1 tbsp lemon juice 2 4.2 oz cans sardines in olive oil, drained


let’s get cooking 1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Using a small knife, score the tomatoes with "x" marks, about 1 "x" on each side of each tomato. This helps the tomato skin peel away during roasting, revealing that soft flesh inside for when you press the tomatoes later on. Toss tomatoes in 1/4 cup olive oil and distribute on a baking sheet. Roast for about 20 minutes, until the skin is just starting to blacken. 2. Using a wooden spoon, press tomatoes through a fine mesh strainer or a food mill over a saucepan or skillet. Season with 1/4 tsp salt, and bring to a simmer over medium low heat. Stirring often, cook until the tomatoes form a puree. Cool and set aside. 3. While the tomatoes are cooling, toast your cumin seeds and black pepper in a small skillet over medium heat. Continue until fragrant, about 2 minutes (don't let the spices burn). Mix the toasted spices, tomato puree and mayonnaise in a medium bowl. Taste and add additional salt if needed. 4. Cut the baguette in diagonal slices, about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick. Rub each side of the toast with olive oil (use about 2 tbsp total, more if needed). Grill toasts in a skillet over medium low heat (make sure to watch them, bread burns quickly) or arrange on a baking sheet and roast at ~400 degrees, for about 2 minutes per side (flip in between). 5. Cut your fennel bulb into quarters, lengthwise, then into slices, as thin as you can manage. Toss fennel slices, dill, parsley, lemon juice and 1 tbsp olive oil in a small bowl. Season with several healthy pinches of salt. 6. On each crostini, spread a healthy amount of tomato aioli (at least 1 tsp), then top with sardines and fresh fennel salad. Serve several as a main dish, or serve on a platter as a grab-your-own appetizer.

Jess’s Thoughts!

Chef Erickson suggests Matiz sardines in olive oil, and I do too—if you can find them in your store (Whole Foods carries them in most regions), they're one of the best. Look for the blue & white paper packaging. If you can't find Matiz, Bela sardines (in a white tin can with a small pink & blue fish) are a good substitute. Another tip: this tomato aioli can be made ahead (and is delicious)... make a bigger batch than you need (size up from the recipe below) and use the excess to make sandwiches, or to drizzle over a salad and grain bowl!

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candied walnut & apple salad with spiced cider vinaigrette (makes 3 to 4 servings) total prep & cook time: 20 minutes

ingredients

salad & candied walnut topping 1 honeycrisp apple 3 cups greens (I used romaine hearts and spinach, but arugula or frisee would be delicious also!) 1 small shallot, thinly sliced and quartered 2/3 cup walnuts (buy a full cup – some used in the dressing, below, as well) 1/2 tbsp butter 1/8 cup white sugar

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dressing 1/4 cup + 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar 1/3 cup walnuts, chopped 1/4 tsp cinnamon pinch of cumin pinch of curry powder 1/4 tsp salt 1/4 tsp pepper 1/2 cup + 2 tbsp canola oil


let’s get cooking 1. In a Vitamix, blender or food processor, combine apple cider vinegar, ½ cup chopped walnuts, cinnamon, cumin, curry, salt and pepper. Blend until thoroughly combined (be sure to turn up to high to grind the walnuts). Through the opening of the top of the blender, slowly add canola oil while the blender is on low to medium low speed (this helps emulsify the oil, and is the key to a delicious dressing!). Once oil is fully incorporated, turn off blender. Pour dressing into a small bowl or measuring cup and set aside. 2. Chop greens and shallots and place in a large salad bowl. Set aside. 3. In a small saucepan, combine the other ½ cup walnuts (whole), butter and sugar. Stirring frequently, cook walnuts over medium low heat until the sugar and butter dissolve and turn into a caramel coating. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until the walnuts are glossy, then remove from heat and pour walnuts onto parchment paper to cool and harden. 4. While the walnuts are cooling, dice your apple into thin matchsticks. Cut the top and bottom off of the apple, creating an even base, then use your knife or a peeler to remove the skin around the sides. Cut the apple into centimeter thick slices, then stack the slices and cut centimeter thick “matchsticks.” Add matchsticks to the salad bowl. 5. Use your fingers to break apart candied walnuts that are stuck together, and add to mixing bowl. Add approximately ½ of the prepared dressing (this recipe makes a little extra, for leftovers!) and toss to combine. Serve with extra candied walnuts on top.

Jess’s Thoughts!

And, although fall mostly brings to mind warm, cozy stews and soups and baked goods, this season’s flavors also lend themselves to the lighter side of things… I’m talking about my husband’s least favorite thing: salads. Now, the trick is, my husband doesn’t actually hate salads – when he sees a really interesting, composed salad at a restaurant, he’s the first to order it and rave about it. But at home, the word “salad” seems to have a scary, healthy-instead-of-delicious connotation that he just can’t avoid. This honeycrisp apple and candied walnut salad was the perfect addition to lunch this weekend, with a creamy (but good for you – and no dairy!) cider dressing to make things feel a little luxurious, even when you’re keeping it clean. We paired this new fall favorite with leftover ham and cheese quiche, but it can also stand on its own… plus, this dressing is versatile enough to make a little extra and keep in your fridge for salads all week (I think I just heard Andrew shudder at the thought)! 45


chicken dijon: french comfort food (makes 2 dinner-sized servings) total prep & cook time: 75 to 90 minutes

ingredients

4 chicken thighs, skin on 1 small yellow or white onion 2 large cloves garlic 4 to 5 small yukon gold potatoes, peeled and quartered 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp salt, plus more to taste 1/4 tsp pepper 1/2 tsp dried/crushed thyme

Jess’s Thoughts!

1/2 tsp sugar 1 1/2 tbsp dijon mustard, plus more to taste 1 1/2 cup water (chicken or vegetable broth substitutes nicely—more on this below) juice of 1/2 lemon 1 tbsp sour cream, to finish (optional) baguette, sliced, for serving (optional)

If you commit to buying really fresh ingredients (particularly in the onion/carrot/other “mirepoix” or base vegetable department) and cooking a bit more slowly, you can add a lot of flavor, even when your liquid addition is just plain water. However, for those of you in the US, feel free to cheat and sub some chicken or vegetable broth... and know that I’m jealous!

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let’s get cooking 1. Prep vegetables for the base of the stew. Clean onion, then cut into ~1 centimeter slices. Cut slices in half to create half moons. Set aside. Clean garlic, smash using the back of your knife, and cut into a fine mince. Set aside. Peel potatoes, then slice into quarters, so that all potato pieces are of relatively similar size. Set aside. 2. Lightly salt and pepper each side of the chicken thighs. Add 1 tbsp olive oil to a heavy bottomed skillet or saucepan and bring to medium high heat. Brown chicken thighs over medium high heat, about 1 to 2 minutes on each side, until golden brown. Remove chicken thighs from the skillet and set aside on a plate. Do not pour off the oil & fat in the pan—you’ll be using these flavors to cook down the onions & form the broth/ sauce. 3. Add onions, garlic and remaining 1 tbsp of olive oil to the skillet or saucepan. Add 1/2 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp sugar, and stir to the coat. Cook onions and garlic over low heat for about 5 to 7 minutes, until onions begin to melt and caramelize. 4. Add potatoes, thyme, mustard, remaining 1/2 tsp salt, lemon juice and water (or broth—see above). Mix together to combine, and scrap up any remaining caramelized bits from the bottom of the pan. Bring to a boil, then nestle the chicken thighs in to the mixture. Thighs should be about halfway to 75% covered, with the skin side up. 5. Cook covered at low heat (the mixture should be softly simmering) for 15 minutes, then continue cooking but slide the lid back to only cover the pot about halfway. If water level gets too low, add a small amount of additional liquid (but check your seasoning after doing so!). 6. After the full 30 minutes of cook time, remove cover from the pan completely and increase the heat to medium high. Remove chicken thighs and set aside on a serving dish. Cook the remaining broth/sauce at a rapid bubble for 10 to 15 minutes, thickening the sauce by evaporating away excess liquid. Use a spoon to test—if the sauce clings slightly to the spoon, you’re in good shape and can remove the pot from heat. Be sure to stir frequently with a wooden spoon to avoid burning the bottom. 7. Serve chicken thighs with stew (potatoes, onions & sauce) spooned over. Add a little extra flourish with a baguette for dipping or dollop of sour cream mixed in.

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roast chicken with winter vegetables (makes enough for 2 dinner-sized servings) total prep & cook time: 45 minutes

ingredients

2 chicken thighs, bone in (focus on dark meat here... it develops the best flavor) 1 fennel bulb, fronds removed 1 large onion, peeled 1 leek 3 or 4 yukon gold potatoes, peeled (optional)

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1/8 tsp + 1/8 tsp salt 1/4 tsp pepper 3 tbsp water or chicken broth 4 tbsp butter, sliced into 1 tbsp pieces


let’s get cooking

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Roughly chop the fennel bulb, onion, leek and potatoes (if using). Place chopped veggies into a large casserole dish, and mix to distribute evenly. Season with 1/8 tsp salt. 2. Place chicken thighs on top of the veggies, with about an inch of space in between the thighs (placing them too closely together steams the meat and makes it hard to get that crispy skin). Season with remaining 1/8 tsp salt and 1/4 tsp pepper. Place 1 pat of butter (1 tbsp each) on top of each chicken thigh. 3. Place remaining 2 pats of butters (1 tbsp each) on top of the exposed veggies (I like to go for one on each side on the casserole dish). Add 3 tbsp water or broth to the bottom of the dish. 4. Bake for about 30 minutes, until chicken skin is crispy and golden brown and veggies are soft and wilted. Remove from oven and cool. Serve chicken thighs over a bed of roasted veggies.

Jess’s Thoughts!

There’s something about weekday dinners that just makes things feel harder... all that chopping and prepping can be fun on a Saturday afternoon, but on a rainy, Tuesday night, all that great cooking can feel like an extra job. For those nights, the hubby & I have some go to recipes that I like to call “cheat day” meals (note: nothing to do with dieting.... in that vocabulary, my whole life is a cheat day). Cheat day meals are dinners (or lunches!) that are quick, work-free and often, one pot or one dish wonders. One of my favorite fall / winter versions is roast chicken with veggies (seasonally themed, if you keep up on your groceries each week), cooked completely in the oven, in a single casserole dish. While the chicken cooks, its juices drip down and help baste the roasting veggies underneath, creating a 2-for-1 special where you get a gorgeous protein and a healthy, satisfying side to boot. All you have to do is some rough chopping (nothing fancy required here) and add a little salt, pepper and butter, and then let your oven do all the heavy lifting.

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classic french vinaigrette (makes about 1/2 cup, enough for about 4 entree sized salads) total prep & cook time: 10 minutes

ingredients

2 tbsp shallots, minced 2 tbsp lemon juice (can substitute white wine or champagne vinegar) 2 tsp dijon mustard 1/2 tsp honey (optional)

about 5 to 6 tbsp olive oil—you don’t have to be overly precise 1/4 tsp salt 1/8 tsp pepper

Jess’s Thoughts!

One of my favorite parts of French bistros (other than the bread... and butter... and cheese...) is their commitment to simple, uncluttered salads. Very often, even if you order a meat dish, your plate will arrive dressed with some greens on the side—sometimes it may even be just lettuce, but without fail, it is always so perfectly dressed that it tastes like one of the best salads you've ever had. The dressing, it turns out, is what makes these basic bits of lettuce so magnificent—a super easy, pantry ingredient vinaigrette that everyone in France knows as well as they know their own birthday. Just five staple ingredients: mustard, lemon juice (or vinegar), salt, pepper and olive oil. The magic here is that adding even little variations takes something already great and makes it amazing... a little shallot to add some garlicky sweetness, a little honey to balance out bitterness... this simple dressing is the perfect thing to make your vegetables the star. The key to emulsifying a dressing (where the oil stops settling on the top and seems to “disappear” and thicken the mixture) is to have an intermediary that helps your acid (lemon or vinegar) and your oil (olive oil) come together and get happy. In a classic French vinaigrette, mustard serves that purpose, but honey, egg yolk, garlic and other agents do the same for other dressing combos. Experiment away, just remember to get that holy trinity of oil, acid & intermediary! Also—don’t be afraid to season. A good dressing always tastes a little aggressively seasoned on its own... but that’s because it helps coats each vegetable in your salad, lending that necessary little bit of salt to your greens. If you overdid it, no fear—just add a little more olive oil to take the mixture down a notch.

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let’s get cooking 1. Combine shallots, lemon juice, dijon mustard and honey (if using) in a small bowl (I often use a cup or whatever is handy!). Use a fork to mix until combined. 2. Hold a fork or whisk in your left hand, and start to agitate and whisk the dressing. With your right hand, slowly drizzle in the olive oil, continuing to whisk the whole time. After olive oil is completely added, continue to whisk for about 20 to 30 seconds, making sure to scrap the bottom of your bowl/cup. 3. Dressing should now be emulsified—the dressing should have minimal oil sitting on top of the mixture, and should be a thick, rich yellow color. If not emulsified, continue to whisk until dressing thickens. If dressing refuses to set, try adding a touch more mustard and lemon juice and re-whisking. 4. Add salt and pepper and mix to combine. Taste using the back of a spoon, and adjust seasoning as needed. Serve over greens; keeps well in the fridge for 1 to 2 days (make need a quick shake or re-whisk upon using).

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homemade beef pho (vietnamese noodle soup) (makes 4 large bowls) total prep & cook time: 6 hours for the broth + 20 minutes to finish and assemble)

ingredients

4 or 5 large beef bones 1 yellow onion, peeled and cut in half 1 2 inch piece of ginger, peeled 3 whole pods star anise (the spice that looks like a flower) just under 1 tbsp salt + more to taste 2 1/2 tbsp fish sauce 12 cups water + up to 8 more cups water later on 1 8 to 10 oz package of dried rice noodles (vermicelli style is most traditional, but flat noodles work well also)

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about 4 oz beef sirloin (other cuts will work, but may require that you cook the meat separately, if you can’t get that thin slice) 1 lime, sliced into wedges several handfuls of fresh basil 1 8 oz or larger bag of bean sprouts sriracha, hoisin or oyster sauce (optional) other optional toppings: scallions/spring onions, cilantro


let’s get cooking 1. In a large stock pot, combine beef bones, onion, ginger, star anise, salt, fish sauce and 12 cups water. Bring to boil, then reduce to simmer and cover halfway. Cook broth over low heat for at least 4 hours and up to 6 hours, skimming fat off the top as necessary and stirring infrequently. After each hour, if the water level falls low enough to expose the bones, add another cup, stopping after adding 8 additional cups of water (you want to add water as the broth evaporates, but avoid overly diluting the broth). Taste broth every hour to monitor the building flavor. Add additional 1/2 tsp of salt if needed. 2. Pour broth through a fine mesh strainer to remove all solids. If making ahead, cool the broth and place the stock pot in the fridge overnight. Before reheating, use a spoon to break up and remove any fats that solidified on the surface (this helps make the broth crystal clear). Discard. Reheat broth, bringing to a boil (the broth needs to be hot enough to cook your meat, if following the traditional preparation). 3. Fill a small pot 3/4 full with water and bring to boil. Turn off the heat and add rice noodles. Soak for 6 minutes, then drain and set aside. Make sure not to overcook the noodles—after a 6 minute soak, they should still be slightly chewy... the noodles will finish cooking when added to the hot soup. 4. Thinly slice your meat. If using sirloin, add thin slices to the hot broth to cook. If using a different cut, cook meat quickly in a hot, non-stick skillet, about 2 to 3 minutes. Meat should be cooked on the outside, but still pink in the center. 5. Place noodles in a bowl, then add meat. Pour broth over, then finish with desired toppings—sliced scallions, hand torn basil (and cilantro, if you choose), bean sprouts and sauces. Serve warm.

Jess’s Thoughts!

Traditional pho broth uses beef bones and aromatics to build that crazy, have-to-have-another-slurp flavor. Ask your butcher for beef bones—any meat counter will have some left over, and they can saw them into smaller chunks for easier handling (not to mention, bones are nice and cheap!). Typically, the broth utilizes the bones only—the meat isn’t added or cooked in advance. After the broth is finished, slice your beef or chicken as thinly as possible, then add to the hot soup just before eating, letting the heat quickly cook the protein. If you end up cheating with a different cut of beef (we used some leftover flap steak here), thinly slice and cook separately in a hot skillet, then add to your soup just before serving. 53


mom’s chicken noodle soup (serves 4 to 5 full bowls) total prep & cook time: 2 hours (mostly simmer time)

ingredients

1 yellow onion, whole with outer skin removed 3 to 4 chicken drumsticks, or 2 drumstick/thigh combos 2 large carrots, peeled and diced 2 stalks of celery, diced 3/4 tsp salt, plus more to taste 1/4 tsp pepper, plus more to taste just over 4 oz of small noodles or macaroni (something fun & twisty is always great), or 1/2 package of “no yolks� noodles (about 6 oz)

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let’s get cooking 1. Wash chicken drumsticks/thighs thoroughly, then place into a large soup pot. Add onion, then add water until you cover the chicken by about 1 inch. Add salt and bring to boil. 2. Once the stock is at a rolling boil, reduce to a strong simmer (medium low heat). Add diced carrots. Cover halfway with a lid and cook for 20 minutes. Check the water level at this stage—if the water level is approaching the top of the chicken, add another cup or two of liquid, to bring water level back up to about 1 inch above the drumsticks/thighs. A quick note on that weird foam: once the chicken starts cooking, it will give off some foam that rises to the top of your broth. The foam won't kill you—it's just bits of protein flaking off of the chicken and coagulating at the top of the broth—but it will make your soup murky and a little "dirty" in appearance. I like to skim it off with a spoon, to get that super clear gorgeous chicken soup... one or two turns around the edges of the pot is usually enough to get most of it! 3. Remove onion (it should be soft by now, but not yet falling apart) and discard. Add celery to the soup. Reduce heat to a low simmer (just a notch down from your previous temperature) and continue to cook, half covered, for 1 hour. Check the water level every 15 to 20 minutes and add a cup of water as needed. 4. Towards the end of the hour, set a separate small pot of water to boil (to cook your noodles). Salt the water heavily. Once boiling, add noodles and cook to package directions (usually around 10 to 12 minutes). Pull the noodles off the heat about 1 minute earlier than you would otherwise—you want them a bit more "al dente" (firm to the bite) than usual, since they will continue to soften when they're added to the hot soup. Strain the noodles, rinse quickly with cold water (to stop the cooking process) and set aside. 5. After 1 hour of simmer time, turn off the heat under the soup pot and carefully remove the chicken pieces. Set aside to cool for 5 to 10 minutes, then carefully remove the skin and discard. Using a fork (or your hands, but carefully), shred the chicken meat. Add chicken meat back to the soup, and discard the bones. 6. Add noodles & 1/4 tsp pepper to the warm soup and stir to combine. Check seasoning & add additional salt or pepper as desired. Serve warm; keeps well in the fridge for up to 2 days.

Jess’s Thoughts!

This super simple version is borrowed from my mom’s go to recipe, with a few alterations... adding some celery, dicing the carrots earlier (less work to do later!) and getting crazy with the noodles. But the basic technique? That should never change— after all, classics are the best for a reason. Great chicken noodle will always depend on the freshness of your chicken—pick up some fresh drumsticks (or drumstick/thigh combos) and let that awesome flavor build naturally. Don’t worry about overcooking the chicken... the light, fatty broth will keep the meat soft, and the dark meat in your drumsticks/thighs will cook gently without falling apart. 55


sweet potato & goat cheese gratin (serves 2 as lunch entree or dinner side) total prep & cook time: 1 1/2 hours

ingredients

2 large sweet potatoes 2 tbsp unsalted butter 2 tbsp flour 1 1/4 cups milk, heated in a separate pot 1 tbsp honey 1 garlic clove, minced 1 small shallot, thinly sliced (I forgot mine, but you should not—it’s a delicious add!)

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4 oz fresh goat cheese (I prefer rind removed for superior melting, but you can leave it in— it's totally edible!) salt to taste 1/4 tsp pepper parmesan cheese, to grate on top


let’s get cooking

1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Rub the butter all around the inside of a small baking dish or casserole dish, then place remaining butter in a small saucepot. 2. Peel sweet potatoes and slice into thin rounds, about 1/2 to 1 cm thick. Cut off any spots that are blackening, then set aside. 3. Add butter, garlic, shallots and flour to a small saucepot. Cook over medium low heat, stirring constantly (I suggest a wooden spoon), until the flour and butter are incorporated, slightly bubbling and a light golden color. 4. Add heated milk to the flour/butter mixture, stirring constantly to blend. Bring the sauce to a boil, then reduce temperature and cook for an additional 2 to 3 minutes. Stir often to avoid burning the sauce at the bottom. While the sauce is cooking, add salt, pepper and honey (melt the honey slowly into the sauce off of a small spoon). 5. Remove the sauce from heat and add goat cheese, whisking or beating the sauce until the cheese is completely melted. Set aside. 6. In your baking dish, arrange a first layer of sweet potatoes, slightly overlapping like shingles. Spoon 1/3 of the cheese sauce over the potatoes, making sure to lightly coat each one. Repeat with 2 additional layers, alternating potatoes and sauce. Pour any remaining sauce over the top of the gratin (make sure to scrape out any leftover garlic or shallot from the pot!). 7. Grate parmesan cheese over the top of the gratin, then cover loosely with aluminum foil. Bake for 45 minutes covered, then remove foil and bake for an additional 30 minutes, until the top is golden and sweet potatoes are wilted and soft. Let cool before serving.

Jess’s Thoughts!

The variety of cool dairy products in Europe is equal parts amazing and intimidating... Often, what should be a quick trip to get some cream inevitably leads to a half hour long debate on fat content (there are dozens of options), the precise definition of light or heavy, or even which animal’s dairy is best for the recipe at hand (you can choose from cow, goat, sometimes sheep... it really is wild)! Luckily, after our big Christmas feast, I had a little big of everything left over—and the best way to use a little bit of everything (particularly in the dairy department) is to make something soft, melty, crunchy and satisfying... one of my favorite foods, the gratin. In this version, I decided to make things a little lighter and healthier by swapping heavy cows’ cheeses for a funky goat cheese, and basic potatoes for sweet potatoes. Adding a little bit of honey, garlic and shallots rounded out a meal full of perfect warm winter flavors... and made the house smell delicious in the process. This recipe leans on a basic bechamel (the classic white sauce), and turns it into a funky cheese sauce with the addition of goat cheese and a little honey. If it's your first time making bechamel, have no fear—it really does become easy with practice! Be sure to cook your flour/butter paste just long enough to get golden, but be quick with the milk so your paste doesn't turn brown. Also, if your sauce just *refuses* to get thick, try turning the heat up a notch... sometimes a vigorous boil is all you need to activate the glutens in the flour (just make sure you keep stirring, constantly, so the bottom doesn't burn). 57


butter chicken inspired veggie stew (serves two full servings) total prep & cook time: 45 minutes

ingredients

6 or 7 small yukon gold potatoes, sliced in half (leave skins on) 1 red bell pepper, chopped into pieces about 1 inch square 1/2 white or yellow onions, roughly chopped 1 to 2 large handfuls baby spinach 1 cup coconut milk + more as needed 1 cup pureed tomatoes + more as needed 1/2 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp curry

1/2 tsp turmeric 1/2 tsp cinnamon 1 tsp chili powder 1/2 tsp salt 1/4 tsp pepper 1/2 tsp ground ginger 1 tbsp olive oil prepared basmati rice, to serve

Jess’s Thoughts!

One of the things I miss most about the states is the super easy, accessible (and delicious!) international takeout... particularly Indian and Chinese food! To cope, I've had to up my Indian game at home, so I started by tackling my favorite dish: butter chicken. Butter chicken is a north Indian dish that typically featured chicken, marinated in cream and spices, cooked in an amazing spiced, tomato curry, and the effect is something rich, satisfying, and yet, really not that bad for you at all! This variation is a simplification that was perfect for lunch last week... I went all veggie, in the theme of "keeping it light," and I slimmed down the ingredient list to things that are usually handy around my kitchen! The spice list is still... well, pretty long... but if you've ever made Indian food at home, you know that the most important part is toasting that big blend of spices to get the absolute best flavor... and to make your whole house smell like paradise. If you're missing a few, that's ok, but try not to skip the curry, cumin seeds, chili powder or cinnamon... they truly make the sauce.

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let’s get cooking 1. Place potatoes in a small saucepot or soup pot and cover with water. Add several pinches of salt and, over high heat, bring to boil. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes, until you can just pierce the potatoes with a fork (potatoes should be softened, but not totally falling apart, as they will continue to cook in the mixed saute later). Remove potatoes from heat and drain all water, then set aside. 2. Add olive oil, chopped onion (use your hands to break up the pieces) and spices (including salt) to a large, deep skillet or saucepan. Cook over medium high heat for at least 5 minutes, until onions are softened and spices are toasted. 3. To the skillet, add bell pepper and potatoes and cook, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes, to bring the vegetables up to temperature. Add coconut milk and pureed tomatoes to the skillet, and stir to combine. Use a wooden spoon to deglaze the bottom of the skillet, pulling up all the crusty brown bits at the bottom. 4. Reduce heat to medium and continue to simmer vegetables in the sauce for 10 minutes. Use a spoon to taste and, if desired, add additional salt or chili powder to season. If sauce gets overly thick, add additional tomatoes and coconut milk, in equal parts. Make sure to adjust seasoning. 5. Turn off heat, then add spinach to the stew, stirring to mix the leaves in with the sauce so that they wilt. After spinach has softened, serve stew over basmati rice.

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homemade dash broth: basics of japanese cooking (makes 8 cups of stock, enough for 1 to 2 soup/other preparations) total prep & cook time: 15-20 minutes

ingredients

8 cups water 4 6-inch strips of kombu (if using shredded kombu, about 1 oz is equivalent) 2 cups bonito flakes

Jess’s Thoughts!

In keeping with my soup theme this week, I’ve been craving some ramen or udon like crazy, and may need to hit an udon spot in Paris this weekend! Japanese soups are one of my absolute favorite things, and one of the best parts of our trip to Japan last year. When I started to learn about cooking Japanese cuisine, I was super surprised to find out that a large portion of their soups (and other foods!) start with the same delicious, basic, simple stock: dashi. Dashi is a sea stock made from two funky ingredients: kombu and bonito flakes. Kombu is a dried kelp / seaweed, often sold in sheets or shredded flakes, and has powdery crystals on its surface that add amazing umami flavor to your stock. However, you need to be careful not to boil it (just simmer), or the kombu can get a little slimy and bitter... so watch your temperature! Bonito flakes are dried, thinly shaved flakes of bonito fish (in the tuna family) and add that light oceanic complexity to your stock... I know, it sounds strange, but when you tasteit, you’ll recognize that special *something* that all those delicious Japanese broths & sauces have in common! Bonito flakes get steeped like tea leaves—they add their flavor, then you remove them and throw them away. This broth is the basis of most of my favorite Japanese foods: miso soup (add miso), ramen (build off dashi base with soy, miso, chili oil, pork belly...), udon (add mirin & soy) and even sauce-based dishes like teriyaki or donburi. Once you become a dashi pro, try adding it to other non-Japanese food preps... you’ll fall in love with how it adds that subtle umami flavor! Poach fish in dashi, add a little bit to vinaigrettes or cook other veggies (mushrooms are the classic go to) in your dashi broth... I promise you won’t be disappointed. Kombu and bonito flakes are sold in most Whole Foods, but you can also find them in Japanese grocery stores, or order on Amazon. A big pack of each will be enough for several big batches of stock, which you can then freeze and keep for later! 60


let’s get cooking 1. Fill a large saucepot with water and add kombu strips (or shredded kombu). Turn on medium high heat, and cook until the water is simmering, but not yet boiling (boiling the kombu adds a slimy, bitter flavor.... no good). Remove kombu using tongs or a strainer. 2. Add bonito flakes to the pot and turn off heat. Cover and let the pot sit for 10 to 15 minutes—the water will steep the bonito flakes like a tea, and they will slowly start to fall to the bottom. 3. Strain the stock through a fine sieve, removing all solid particles. Use dashi for soups, donburi or teriyaki bowls, or pour into a jar or freezer bag to store. Stock will keep in the fridge for up to 5 days, or in the freezer for up to 6 months!

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copycat spinach, vegetable & pasta soup (makes enough for 4 or 5 entree servings) total prep & cook time: 45 minutes

ingredients

3 tbsp olive oil 2 onions, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 carrots, peeled and chopped 1/2 tsp salt, plus more to taste 1/4 tsp pepper, plus more to taste 2 bay leaves sprig of dried thyme (a dash or two from a spice jar would work also!) 1 leek (white part only), finely chopped 5 cups vegetable broth 1 15 oz can of white beans (small white beans ideal, cannellini would work well too)

1 15 oz can of white beans (small white beans ideal, cannellini would work well too) 3 to 4 oz small pasta (casarecce or something similar is best... a doughier shape will add more chew and texture to your soup!) 1 6 oz package baby spinach, roughly diced or torn into pieces juice of 1/2 lemon 2 to 3 oz heavy cream (optional) extra olive oil or parmesan cheese, to top (optional)

Jess’s Thoughts!

Last week in Switzerland was pretty jam-packed with work... so although I’m usually great about trying to get out and see new cities, on that trip I just committed to getting back to my hotel and finding the closest place possible that would feed me! Luckily, the hotel I was staying at was just *gorgeous*—and the restaurant attached was beyond delicious (and a little classy, so sorry for my sleepy self, guys!). The Grand Chene in Lausanne is definitely a bit of a see-and-be-seen (the Rolling Stones list it as one of their favorites!) but for me, it was comfort food at the end of two very long days. I’m not usually the type to try to copycat restaurant dishes—it’s too fun to experiment and mess around in the kitchen on my own!—but the vegetable soup I had at Grand Chene was just so good I had to try to replicate it. The soup itself isn’t so complex... it’s a typical combination of spinach, leeks, carrots and small soup noodles, but something about the ambiance (sleep-deprived), the extra creaminess (no health nuts here, please) and the grand presentation (have you seen this soup tureen!?) made it feel really special. On one of these long, gray, rainy February days... I’m going to recreate that cozy feeling, and it’s going to be wonderful. You can skip the cream here, if you wish.... but I really wish you wouldn’t! The combination of the white beans breaking down and the touch of cream really take this simple veggie soup and transform it into something silky and miraculous. Give it a shot... and just have a salad for your next lunch instead. 62


let’s get cooking 1. In a large soup pot, heat 3 tbsp olive oil over medium heat. Add onions, garlic and carrots, and cook for about 10 minutes, until onions begin to melt. 2. Add salt, pepper, bay leaves, thyme, leek, water (or broth) and white beans and stir to combine. Increase heat slightly and bring mixture to boil. 3. While soup is cooking, fill a separate medium sized pot 3/4 full with water and bring to a boil. Salt aggressively. When water is boiling, add small pasta and cook until al dente. You want the noodles to still have a slight bite to them, as they will continue to cook off when added to the warm soup! Once noodles are done, use a strainer to remove any cooking liquid, and set aside. 4. Reduce heat under the soup pot to a simmer. Check seasoning and adjust as needed... if using a low-sodium or homemade stock, you should expect to need a little more salt in your broth. If using a store-bought stock, you may be good without! Cook for an additional 10 to 15 minutes (let the flavors marry), then add spinach. Turn off heat and let spinach wilt into the soup. 5. Remove bay leaves from the soup and discard. Add lemon juice and, if using, heavy cream. Add noodles and stir to combine. Serve with an extra splash of olive oil or grated parmesan cheese on top.

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our favorite veggie lasagna (makes about 6 servings) total prep & cook time: 1 1/2 hours (including baking time)

ingredients

10 oz quality grated parmesan (grana padano, if you can basic tomato sauce: locate it) two 28 oz cans of pureed or crushed ~1 package lasagna noodles, quality tomatoes (san marzano will depending on width—you need always be my favorite, but any good enough for at least 3 full noodle brand will do) layers (either no-cook or 5 large cloves garlic, smashed and regular... can also use wheat or minced quinoa based lasagna noodles, 1 yellow onion, minced although texture will be slightly Jess’s Thoughts! 3 tbsp olive oil tougher!) 1 tbsp tomato paste If you're one of those crazy ricotta-loving people (they exist, but 1 cup vegetable broth (or water) + more they confuse me), feel free to add it back, as it shouldn't mess to thin, as needed with the rest of the recipe too much. One last note... this lasagna 1 tsp salt + more to taste is a weeknight-friendly two layers (because we get hungry quick 1/4 tsp ground pepper around here), but if you want to boost your layering for something 1 tsp sugar truly impressive, just size up on the fillings & make some extra 1/4 cup dry red wine (optional) sauce. Don't skimp on the cheese either—it's your primary bindother optional mix-ins: garlic powder, ing agent here. Also an option: use a square baking tin with high basil (fresh or dried), oregano (fresh or sides instead of a casserole dish... smaller size = more material for dried), red chili flakes additional layers!

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filling & other: 1 medium eggplant, diced 1 large zucchini (or 2 small), diced about 6 large or 10 medium sized mushrooms, diced (include the stems!) 10 oz shredded mozzarella


let’s get cooking

1. Prepare your tomato sauce: combine olive oil, minced garlic and minced onion in a large saucepot. Place over medium heat and cook for about 3 minutes (stirring infrequently), until onions have begun to melt. Cook for an additional 1 to 2 minutes to get some color on the onions and garlic, but avoid burning. Add tomato paste and beat with a wooden spoon to combine. Cook for another minute (this helps build the flavor base of your sauce). 2. Add vegetable broth (or water) and wine (if using), using your wooden spoon to deglaze any brown bits from the bottle of the pot. Add pureed/crushed tomatoes, salt, pepper, sugar and other spices (if using). Stir to combine and bring to a bubble. Reduce heat to low and let the sauce simmer for at least 10 minutes to build flavor. Test the consistency—if sauce is too thick (bubbles pop violently when simmering), add another 1/2 cup of water or broth. If sauce is too thin, simmer for an additional 5 minutes to reduce. Sauce should be thick enough to coat a wooden spoon evenly, but should remain pourable. After 10 minutes, remove from heat and check seasoning. Adjust as needed, and set aside. Note: sauce can be prepared in advance & re-heated before assembly. 3. If needed, prepare your lasagna noodles (if using no-cook noodles, skip this step!): bring a large pot of water to boil, and salt aggressively. Cook noodles per package directions (likely about 5 to 6 minutes max!), lightly stirring the noodles once or twice as they cook to avoid sticking. Remove noodles when they are still relatively firm (they should have a little bit of flexibility, but still be too hard to eat), pulling out a few at a time with a wire skimmer or soft slotted spoon. Lay noodles out flat on a tea towel or paper towel to cool. 4. Prepare your vegetables: using a big non-stick skillet, work in batches to pre-cook your diced vegetables (eggplant, zucchini, mushrooms). I like to split it into 3 batches, cooking each for about 6 minutes—the goal here is to start the cooking process on your veggies (so that they're not squeaky and undercooked later) *and* reduce some of the water content. Make sure to lightly season each batch with a sprinkle of salt while it's cooking... when each batch is about halfway cooked (starting to soften, light color on the veggies), remove from heat and place into a big glass prep bowl, and move on to the next! When all veggies have been lightly cooked, mix veggies in your prep bowl to ensure an even blend. Set aside. 5. Preheat oven to 325 degrees and assemble your lasagna: on a large surface, lay out a large casserole dish, your pot of sauce (with a spoon or ladle), your bowl of prepped veggies, lasagna noodles and cheeses. In the bottom of the casserole dish, spoon 2 or 3 ladles of sauce, using a spoon to spread evenly (keeps your bottom layer from sticking!). Arrange a layer of lasagna noodles on top of the sauce, overlapping them lightly to completely cover the base. On top of the noodles, spread 1/2 of the vegetable mixture. Gently ladle 1/3 of your remaining sauce over the vegetable layer. Cover the sauce layer with 1/3 of your cheese, first sprinkling shredded mozzarella, then grated parmesan. Repeat this with one more noodle-veggies-sauce-cheese layer (make sure you slightly compress the first layer once you place your second layer of noodles... just press slightly throughout the lasagna to help everything stick together!). At the end of your second layer, you should be all out of veggies, but still have some sauce, noodles & cheese left over. 6. On top of the second cheese layer, arrange one final layer of lasagna noodles. Again, apply a little bit of pressure to gently compress. Finally, spread your remaining tomato sauce over the top, making sure to fully coat the top layer of noodles, pouring any excess into the sides of your dish / any open gaps. Sprinkle remaining cheese over the sauce. Cover lightly with foil and bake for 45 minutes, then uncover and bake for an additional 15 to 20 minutes, until the lasagna is bubbling all along the sides and the cheese on top is melted and slightly golden. Cool, slice and serve. 65


pasta carbonara, two ways (makes 2 large servings or 3 to 4 smaller servings) total prep & cook time: 45 minutes

ingredients

350g dried pasta, spaghetti or similar 1/4 cup parmesan cheese, grated, plus more to taste 1/4 cup pecorino cheese, grated (can sub additional parmesan instead) 3/4 cup pancetta or lardons, diced (can sub thick cut bacon, sliced into cubes, if needed)

Jess’s Thoughts!

2 garlic cloves, cleaned 2 tbsp unsalted butter 2 eggs using method two: dash of vinegar for poaching (optional) salt and pepper to tast

A traditional carbonara is made by mixing the raw egg in at the end to instantly create the sauce, a technique that is a little tricky to perfect but totally worth it (details below!). But, if you're a little squeamish about uncooked eggs, or if you keep scrambling them using the traditional method, try poaching instead! A more modern take on a carbonara, poaching the egg (instead of whisking it into cheese) gives you a bit more control and ensures you'll still get that silky egg yolk finish. Either way, it's bound to taste great. I can’t say this enough—start buying quality pasta. Look for packages that show the pasta through a little window, and search for artisanal pasta where you can see texture in the pasta dough. These pastas aren’t necessarily made by hand, but they are made in smaller batches, with more care and work, and dried for longer... creating a much deeper flavor in your final product!

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let’s get cooking 1. Set a large pot of water over high heat, to boil. Salt aggressively. While the water is boiling, combine your grated cheeses into a single bowl, and set aside. Smash garlic cloves using the back of your knife, and set aside. 2. Add butter to a large skillet over medium high heat. Once the butter is melted, add pancetta/lardons and garlic clove. The garlic will perfume the butter and pancetta, adding a little bit of flavor without actually adding the clove itself to the final dish. Continue to cook over medium high heat for about 5 to 7 minutes, until the pancetta/lardons are just crispy and have released some of their fat. Remove the garlic clove and discard. Set the pan with pancetta aside. 3. Once the water is boiling, add pasta and cook until al dente (the pasta should be cooked but retain a slight bite). Once cooked, remove the pasta from the water using tongs or a pasta fork, and add to the skillet with pancetta. Do not throw away the pasta water! Method one: the traditional 4. Whisk your two eggs in a small bowl, then add the cheese mixture, and mix to combine. 5. Place the skillet with pancetta and pasta over medium heat for about 2 minutes (no longer!), until pancetta is back to temperature and the pan is warm, but not yet hot. Toss pasta and pancetta to mix evenly, then add about a third of a ladle of pasta water to the pan, and remove from heat. 6. Working quickly, add egg/cheese mixture to the pasta, lifting the pasta and moving the mixture vigorously to avoid scrambling the eggs. The eggs should thicken into a sauce (with the pasta water)—if the mixture is too thick, add another tbsp of pasta water to thin. If your eggs scramble, then your pan was too hot. The goal is to heat the pan just enough to melt the cheese, without scrambling your eggs. Luckily, it's still delicious. Keep practicing if needed! 7. Season to taste (note that the pancetta/lardons will add significant saltiness) and serve with an additional grating of cheese. Method two: the modern poach 4. Bring a small pot of water to boil for your poach. Once gently boiling, reduce heat to medium low to avoid a rolling boil. 5. Working one at a time, crack your egg into a small bowl (add a dash of vinegar to help the white set) and hold in one hand. Using your other hand, create a swirl/vortex in your pot of water using a spoon. While the water is still swirling, gently drop your egg into the center (if you added vinegar, it's ok to pour the whole mixture in). Monitor your egg for any aggressive foaminess or bits of white that trail off and discard. Cook for about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, then use a slotted spoon to gently remove. 6. Place the skillet with pancetta and pasta over medium heat to rewarm and liquefy the fats/butter in the pan (aka, the good stuff). Add about a third of a ladle of pasta water to set the base for the sauce (the yolk will finish it off once served). Toss the pasta, pasta water and pancetta together, then add your cheeses and toss to coat. Once the cheeses have melted. plate your pasta, season to taste, then add a poached egg on top to finish. Break the egg yolk upon serving and mix yolk into the pasta to create a sauce.

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crispy pasta & cauliflower bake (makes 4 servings) total prep & cook time: 30 to 40 minutes prep + 30 to 45 minutes bake time

ingredients

8 to 10 oz shaped pasta (I like using a large tube shaped pasta like pipe rigate, so that some of the sauce & cheese get into the holes) 1 head cauliflower, cut into florets 2 tbsp olive oil + 1 tbsp for later 3 large cloves garlic, minced juice & zest of 1/2 lemon 1 tsp herbes de provence (can substitute a mix of basil, thyme and oregano) 1 tsp salt 1/2 tsp black pepper 1/2 tsp crushed red pepper flakes

Jess’s Thoughts!

1 tbsp butter (optional—for bechamel sauce) 1 tbsp flour (optional—for bechamel sauce) 1 cup heavy cream (use for bechamel, or if skipping, reduce to 1/2 cup and add to the pasta mixture) 1 cup fresh ricotta cheese 4 oz shaved or grated parmesan 4 oz grated grana padano (substitute more parmesan if not available) 1/2 cup breadcrumbs or panko

The magic of this dish is that somewhere in all the mixing and matching in my kitchen (this was one of those "cook by feel" moments), this combination turned out to be something in between and entirely new—part healthy alfredo, part adult mac & cheese and part something zippy and light and fragrant... despite effectively being a big bowl of carbs. The addition of bechamel makes the dish no longer a dry, typical bake, but not a big, saucy casserole either... it adds just enough to hold everything together with the slightest suggestion of creaminess to make this feel recipe feel sneakily indulgent. I do steal a chapter from Ina’s book and keep the ricotta in the center... I know, I know, I am *so mean* about ricotta cheese & that weird baked texture, but here it actually works, elevating the dish with a rich inside that has enough tart acidity to keep it exciting. Ricotta hasn’t won me over—don’t you worry—but it’s won this battle for sure. Try not to skip the bechamel, if you can, because it definitely elevates an otherwise simple meal—although I know, that extra pot and clean up is always a pain! If you have to skip & speed up your prep time, then just use the heavy cream (a reduced amount) to add some moisture to your mix... it won’t be quite as rich as the cooked bechamel, but it will still bring everything together texturally and cook off during the bake.

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let’s get cooking 1. First, prep your pasta and cauliflower. Set a large pot of salted water to boil for your pasta. Once boiling, add pasta and cook until just al dente—the pasta will continue to cook when baked later on. Drain pasta and pour into a large bowl. Set aside. 2. Cut cauliflower heads into small/medium sized florets. Heat 2 tbsp of olive oil in a large skillet and add cauliflower in a single layer (you'll likely need to do 2 batches). Cook cauliflower over medium heat for about 5 minutes, until lightly browned and starting to soften. Add browned cauliflower to the bowl with your pasta, then finish your second batch. Add second batch to the bowl. 3. To your pasta and cauliflower, add minced garlic, lemon juice, lemon zest, herbes de provence, salt, pepper, red pepper flakes, 2 oz of shaved parmesan and 2 oz of grana padano. If you are making a bechamel, skip to that next (below); if not, add 1/2 cup heavy cream to the pasta bowl and mix gently to combine all ingredients. 4. Make your bechamel: in a small saucepot (I used the same pot that I boiled my pasta in, and just did a little extra whisking), combine 1 tbsp flour and 1 tbsp butter over medium low heat. Whisk constantly as the butter melts and incorporates the flour. Cook this butter-flour roux over heat, whisking constantly, until it is a golden color. Add 1 cup heavy cream and whisk quickly to combine. The sauce will thicken quickly since we used cream vs. milk, so whisk & cook the sauce for about 30 seconds until it begins to thicken, then remove from heat and pour over the pasta and cauliflower mixture. Mix evenly to combine all ingredients and lightly coat with sauce. 5. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a casserole baking dish, add half of the pasta/cauliflower mixture, using a wooden spoon to spread it evenly. Drop your ricotta cheese over the first layer is spoonfuls—I did about 6 healthy spoonfuls across the dish. Add second layer of pasta/cauliflower on top, and spread evenly. 6. Mix together breadcrumbs and panko with 1 tbsp olive oil, then sprinkle over the dish. Sprinkle remaining 2 oz of parmesan and 2 oz of grana padano over the dish. Bake for 30 to 45 minutes, until the pasta is brown and crispy on top. Serve warm.

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tuscan-inspired tomato, fennel, & white bean stew (makes 4 servings) total prep & cook time: 45 minutes

ingredients

3 large cloves garlic, minced 1 yellow or white onion, diced 2 tbsp olive oil 1 28 oz can whole peeled tomatoes & their juice 2 15 oz cans of cannellini or other white beans 1 fennel bulb (the white part only), sliced thinly

1/2 cup water 2 bay leaves 1 tsp salt 1/2 tsp black pepper 1 to 1 1/2 cups spinach, torn into pieces parmesan, grated, to finish 1 cup cooked lentils, optional crushed red pepper flakes, optional

Jess’s Thoughts!

So, today, I'm taking a moment to stop running around and just enjoy it... enjoy a few productive, happy weeks where everything has *finally* just seemed to slot into place. Part of that inspiration kick this week has been fueled by my excitement for our upcoming trip to Italy... while booking hotels & dinner reservations, all day I dream about pasta, stews, pizza & gelato... so it's only natural that I try to make something similar at home! This Tuscan-inspired stew is a homey, low-key version of a Florentine classic, and it couldn't be easier: take quality ingredients (go for those Marzano tomatoes), add garlic and onions & then cook it til everything marries together and gets aromatic and delicious. I hope you're all having just as happy of a week as I am... and if not, I hope this stew gets you just a little closer to that zen moment. Buon appetito! PS—don't skip the fennel! It really adds that little something extra in this stew.

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let’s get cooking 1. Add 2 tbsp olive oil, minced garlic and diced onion to a large heavy bottomed saucepot. Place over medium heat and cook for about 5 minutes, until onions are melted and garlic has started to slightly brown around the edges of the pot. 2. Add whole tomatoes and their juice, using a wooden spoon to deglaze the bottom of the pan. Cook over high heat for 5 minutes, until tomatoes are fully warmed through and beginning to stick to the bottom. 3. Add beans, sliced fennel, water, bay leaves, salt and pepper to the pot, and stir to combine. Let bubble and cook over medium high heat for 20 minutes, until the sauce has thickened to a stew-like consistency and the top is forming a slightly dark crust. If the mixture is still closer to a tomato sauce consistency, use a spoon to remove several tbsp of the sauce to reduce the liquid content in the pot. Add lentils and crushed red pepper flakes, if using. 4. Cook for an additional 5 to 10 minutes, until the mixture is thick and has set together. Remove from heat and remove bay leaves. Add spinach to the pot and mix; the residual heat will wilt the spinach. 5. Serve with grated parmesan on top, either as a main dish, or as a side to a hearty protein.

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russian brown bread: prepping, mixing & kneading (makes 1 large loaf) total prep & cook time: 1 1/2 hours of work time + 3 hours rising +~ 30 to 45 min baking

ingredients

1 cup water 1 3/4 cups rye flour (strong flour in the UK, type 150 in France)—substitute for tpumpernickel if making black bread 1 1/2 cups regular flour 3/4 tbsp yeast (go fresh yeast if in Europe, purchased from your local bakery... for the US, use active dry)—if using active dry yeast, add pinch of sugar to activate 1/4 cup warm water 1/2 tbsp instant espresso or coffee powder pinch of water

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just under 1/8 cup molasses 1 tsp honey 1/8 cup apple cider vinegar 2 tbsp butter 1/2 oz dark chocolate 1/2 tbsp salt 1/4 tsp fennel seeds 1/2 tsp caraway seeds 1 1/2 tsp sunflower seeds extra flour for kneading several drops vegetable oil

1. Add your rye flour, regular flour & 1 cup of water to a large bowl (this will be your main mixing bowl—only 1 required!). Mix gently to incorporate some of the water, then set aside to autolyze for 30 minutes. 2. While your flour is autolyzing, combine your espresso or coffee powder and pinch of water in a small saucepot. Swirl to dissolve the espresso or coffee powder, then add molasses, honey, vinegar, butter and chocolate. Place the saucepot over medium heat and stir frequently, cooking the mixture until the butter and chocolate are completely melted and incorporated. Remove from heat and set aside to cool 3. Next, prepare your yeast. Add 1/4 cup warm water (80 to 90 degrees F, ideally) to a small measuring cup or bowl. If using fresh yeast, crumble the fresh yeast into the water and stir to dissolve. Fresh yeast will not foam up, so it's ready to use. If using active dry yeast, add the dry yeast to the water along with a pinch of sugar to activate. Stir gently and set aside. Let sit for 10 to 15 minutes until thick and foamy; once foamy, it is ready to use.


let’s get cooking 4. Add the yeast mixture and coffee/butter/chocolate mixture to your autolyzed flour. Mix with a large wooden spoon until halfway combined. Add fennel seeds, caraway seeds, sunflower seeds and salt. Continue mixing until dough is evenly distributed. The dough will be tough and sticky, but as the flour absorbs the liquids (and as you work the dough), it will develop a stretchy, shiny sheen. I also like to start with a sticky dough because I tend to add a decent amount of flour in the kneading process (as you knead, flour comes up off the table and into your dough)—to avoid having to be *too* careful at this stage, I start a little stickier and work my way (through the knead) into the appropriate texture. 5. Generously flour your counter or a large kitchen table. Use a pastry scraper or your wooden spoon to turn the sticky dough out of the bowl and on to the table. Flour your hands and begin knead the dough, working with your lower palms to stretch out those glutens. Kneading technique: Everyone has their own kneading technique that makes them comfortable, but here's my go-to.... always work with a floured counter, and have a pastry scraper nearby. With the dough in front of you, press into it firmly with the palms of your hands, applying pressure away from you, stretching the dough up your work surface. At the top of your stretch, pull your palms up and around the dough (like a mini version of breaststroke), just slightly picking up the dough from the table as you do so. From the bottom of your work surface, start your second knead. This method helps keep your dough from totally gluing to the table as you work... if at the end of each knead, you just bring your hands back straight over the dough, you end up just working the same stretch over and over, slowly attaching that piece of dough into your kitchen counter. Whenever the dough is way too sticky, add a little flour to your hands, use the pastry scraper to lift up the dough and reflour the space underneath. Once the dough is starting to hold shape, add folds to your knead—smush the dough into a smaller bowl and knead directly into the center... this helps you get an even gluten structure throughout your whole bread. 6. Knead for about 15 minutes or until your bread starts to get shiny and smooth, and is barely sticky. If you think you're done kneading, do the windowpane test. Break off a small hunk of dough (about palm sized) and gently stretch it with your fingers, rotating it in a circle as you slowly, slowly stretch the dough (working a circle lets gravity help!). The dough will start to thin out at the center of the circle—if you can get it to stretch thin enough to see some light from the other side (like a windowpane), then you're good to go. If your dough tears badly before you can get a windowpane, then your glutens aren't stretchy enough, and you need to keep working your dough. Once your dough is ready, form gently into a ball and set on your workspace. 7. Oil a large bowl with several drops of vegetable oil; use your hands to spread the oil evenly around the inside of the bowl. Add your dough ball to the bowl and flip once so that the dough is oiled on all sides. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and place in a warm spot. Let rise for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until doubled in size.

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russian brown bread: shaping & baking (makes 1 large loaf) total prep & cook time: 1 1/2 hours of work time + 3 hours rising +~ 30 to 45 min baking

ingredients

1 cup water 1 3/4 cups rye flour (strong flour in the UK, type 150 in France)—substitute for pumpernickel if making black bread 1 1/2 cups regular flour 3/4 tbsp yeast (go fresh yeast if in Europe, purchased from your local bakery... for the US, use active dry)—if using active dry yeast, add pinch of sugar to activate 1/4 cup warm water 1/2 tbsp instant espresso or coffee powder pinch of water

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just under 1/8 cup molasses 1 tsp honey 1/8 cup apple cider vinegar 2 tbsp butter 1/2 oz dark chocolate 1/2 tbsp salt 1/4 tsp fennel seeds 1/2 tsp caraway seeds 1 1/2 tsp sunflower seeds extra flour for kneading several drops vegetable oil


let’s get cooking Jess’s Thoughts!

So, your first rise is over—woohoo, congrats! Hopefully, your dough has doubled in size and looks soft and puffy... if not, then your yeast hasn't activated, and unfortunately there's no fix at this stage... (this is the tricky/ depressing part of bread baking, I know). We'll start below at the end of this first rise (which took 1/2 to 2 hours), and kick off the shaping process... 1. Generously flour your counter or workspace one more time. Gently turn out your puffy risen dough onto the floured counter. The most important thing to remember while shaping is that you want to minimize how much you work the dough—the more you work the dough at this stage, the more you destroy those great air bubbles (created during your first rise). You'll have another rise coming up to restore some of them, but the more air bubbles you keep = the softer crumb your bread will have! If you are baking your bread in a loaf pan, gently oil or non-stick spray the sides and bottom of the pan, then shape your bread into a long oval to fit. Place the bread inside the pan and move on to your second rise. If you are baking a round or oval loaf, see shaping technique below. Shaping technique: This technique helps you get a round or oval shaped loaf with a shiny, tight top and a seal at the bottom of your bread, ensuring that you don't get any unsightly cracks and helping your bread cook evenly during the bake! Cup each of your hands, palms facing each other, as if you're holding a tiny beach ball in between your hands. Place your cupped hands around the dough, and begin using your cupped hands to gently turn and shape the dough. Place your hands around the dough, then working simultaneously, use your right cupped hand to pull the dough towards you and down, and use your left cupped hand to pull the dough away from you and down. The motion should be the same as if you were spinning a wheel to the right, using the palms of your hands, but with a downward pulling, as if you were spinning the wheel of the dough on a small pin base at the bottom. Continue this motion until the top of your dough ball is smooth and shiny... your gentle rotations and pulls down will stretch the top dome of the ball and create a taut shiny surface. The seam (generated by your pulling down) has developed on the bottom side of the dough ball. Once the top is shiny and stretched, place the dough ball seam down on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. If you desire an oval shape, gently stretch your shaped ball lengthwise, then place on the baking sheet. 2. Loosely cover your shaped dough with plastic wrap and place in a warm place. Let rise for 45 minutes to an hour, until the dough has regained its puffyness and has expanded slightly again. 3. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Using a sharp knife or razor, score the top of your bread in an "X" shape (this allows heat to get down into the center of your bread). Bake for 35 to 50 minutes, checking it early, until the bread has developed a caramel brown color and is hollow inside. How do you check for hollowness? Hold your bread in a thick kitchen towel and use a wooden spoon to rap against the base—if it's ready, it should sound like a hollow drum. If not, place back in the oven to continue baking. Another great readiness check: use a kitchen thermometer to test the temperature inside the center of your bread... if it's at 200 to 210 F, your bread is likely good to go! 4. Let cool before slicing (slicing too early deflates the crumb in the center), then serve. 75


the russian party staple: salad “olivier” (makes about 4 to 6 servings) total prep & cook time: 1 to 1/2 hours

ingredients

2 large or 3 small yukon gold or similar waxy potatoes, skins on (this is important— use a waxy potato to avoid mushy potato chunk in your salad) 3 medium carrots, peeled if you prefer, skins on if you don’t mind peeling them later (more on this below) 3 eggs 8 to 12 oz bologna

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about 15 to 20 cornichons, depending on size (you can substitute whole pickles, but I vastly prefer cornichons for their bite) 1 15 oz can peas, drained and rinsed 1 cup mayonnaise, plus more as needed 1/2 tsp salt, plus more to taste


let’s get cooking 1. In a medium saucepot, cook your potatoes and carrots together over medium heat. Depending on the size of your vegetables, they should take around 20 minutes to cook, but keep an eye on them! Check with a fork frequently to ensure you don’t overcook. Potatoes and carrots should be *just* tender, able to pierce with a fork, but without too much give. Once cooked, drain and set aside. 2. Hard boil your eggs (about 10 to 12 minutes), then cool with cold water and set aside. 3. Once your potatoes and carrots are cool, carefully remove the skins and dice each into a small 1/4 inch dice. To remove potato skins, rub gently along the potatoes until the skins crinkle and rise up, then pull delicately on the skins until the whole potato is clean. If you’ve already peeled your carrots, then you can begin dicing. If you did not pre-peel your carrots (I prefer not to—keeping the skins on during cooking helps promote a more even cook inside the carrot and reduce mushiness on the outer edges), use a paring knife to gently cut the skins off each carrot, working top to bottom. Then, dice your prepared carrots. Gently pour diced potatoes and carrots into a large bowl. 4. Peel your eggs and dice, then add to the bowl of potatoes and carrots. Drain peas and add to the bowl of vegetables. 5. Carefully dice cornichons into a similar or slightly smaller size than your other vegetables, then add to the bowl. 6. Dice bologna into a small 1/4 inch dice, and add to the bowl. Start with about 8 oz and add additional bologna as needed (you’ll be able to see the distribution of ingredients once you mix & determine if anything is too light). 7. Add salt and mayonnaise to the bowl of ingredients, and mix gently with a wooden spoon, folding ingredients together to avoid crushing or mashing. Taste and adjust seasoning, if desired. If any ingredients are significantly lighter than the others (everything should be in a general 1:1 ratio), add more of that ingredient (if available). If salad is too dry, add another 1/4 cup of mayonnaise and re-mix. Serve or place in the refrigerator if make ahead.

Jess’s Thoughts!

Salad “Olivier,” a funky Russian version of a potato salad, is a staple in any Russian household, but particularly so for any big family gathering or special occasion. And so, last week, when I was feeling a tad homesick, a bowl of this colorful goodness was the natural cure. Like all potato salads, this recipe is comforting, homey, and satisfying... with a hint of pickle to add some needed acidity and keep it upbeat. Get a little fancy for your next picnic or potluck & bring some “olivier”... but make sure to set some aside for leftovers at home first! 77


green thai curry with chickpeas & potatoes (makes about 4 servings) total prep & cook time: 45 minutes to an hour (longer if prepping homemade curry paste)

ingredients

green curry paste: 1/2 stalk fresh lemongrass or 3 to 4 tbsp of lemongrass in a tube or bottle (available at Whole Foods in a squeeze container) 1 or 2 green chilies, roughly chopped (jalapenos will do) 1/2 shallot, roughly chopped 2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped 1 tbsp ginger, thinly sliced handful of fresh cilantro handful of fresh basil 1/4 tsp ground cumin 1/4 tsp ground pepper 1/4 tsp ground coriander 1 1/2 tbsp fish sauce (substitute soy sauce if you don’t have fish sauce) 1/2 tsp shrimp paste (available in Asian stores, otherwise sub 1/4 tsp salt) juice of 1 lime 1/2 tsp brown sugar 2 tbsp coconut milk or water, to add moisture

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curry sauce: 2 tsp coconut oil 1/2 yellow onion, diced 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 tbsp ginger, thinly sliced 1/2 tsp chili powder (you can sub more jalapeno or green chili, if you prefer) 3 to 4 tbsp of green curry paste (homemade, above, or store bought) juice of 1 lime (sub lemon if it's easier... I tend to do so since I have lemons around!) 2 tsp sugar 1 15 oz can coconut milk about 1/3 cup of fresh cilantro bring it all together: 2 tsp coconut oil 1/2 yellow onion, diced 1 shallot, minced about 1/2 lb of yukon gold or fingerling potatoes, cut into small chunks 1/2 tsp salt 1 15 oz can chickpeas, drained and rinsed about 4 servings of cooked basmati or white rice


let’s get cooking

1. Make your curry paste (if needed): combine all ingredients in a blender, pulsing at high speeds until all ingredients are incorporated. If ingredients are not breaking down, add slightly more coconut milk (or water) to add moisture and promote an even blend. Scrape curry paste of the blender and set aside. 2. In a medium saucepan or saucepot, heat 2 tsp coconut oil over medium high heat. Add 1/2 yellow onion, garlic, ginger and chili powder (or fresh chili, if using) and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until onions are beginning to melt. Add curry paste, lime juice, sugar, coconut milk and cilantro, and stir to combine. Bring to boil, then reduce to simmer and cook for 5 minutes. 3. After 5 minutes, remove sauce from heat and set aside to cool. Once the temperature has reduced, pour sauce into a blender and pulse at high speed to combine. If your sauce is still relatively warm, keep the lid off and use a damp paper towel to cover the top of your blender to relieve the steam pressure. Blend until only small flecks of cilantro remain visible, then set sauce aside. 4. Quickly clean out your small saucepot, then add chopped potatoes and fill with water until potatoes are completely covered. Add 1/2 tsp salt and place over high heat to boil. Cook potatoes until they are just tender and are able to be pierced with a fork without falling apart. Drain and set aside. 5. In a large skillet, combine remaining 2 tsp coconut oil, remaining 1/2 yellow onion and minced shallot and place over medium high heat. Cook for 3 minutes, until onions begin to melt. Add potatoes, chickpeas and green curry sauce. Stir to combine and coat veggies evenly. Cook for about 5 to 10 minutes, until veggies have absorbed some of the sauce, sauce has thickened and everyone is lightly bubbling. Taste and adjust seasoning as desired. Serve warm over basmati rice.

Jess’s Thoughts!

One of the things I used to get often for lunch back in San Francisco was a green curry, usually with some vegetables or chickpeas, served plainly over rice. The whole thing is relatively simple, features a rockstar sauce and doesn't make you feel like you need to run 3 miles just to work it off. Plus, when I gave a bowl of this to my husband, he responded with a mumbled fork-to-face "mmmyum," so I think it's significant-other approved too. :P You can choose to make your own green curry paste, or cheat and buy from the store... I go both ways. Making your own looks overwhelming, but most of the ingredients are pantry staples or have easy substitutes... plus, all your have to do is throw it all in a blender! Try to keep some store-bought curry paste in the pantry for a quick weeknight dinner, and once in a while, go all out and make your own (the freshness is incredible) and freeze it in an airtight container to have for a rainy day.

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spring pea & bean salad with lemon & herbs (makes about 4 servings) total prep & cook time: 30 minutes

ingredients

1 15 oz can of white beans, rinsed and drained about 10 to 12 fresh shelled pea pods (leave them whole, with peas inside) 1 cup sugar snap peas (can substitute more sugar snaps if shelled pea pods aren’t available) about 2 cups haricots verts or green beans 3 cups mache lettuce (substitute baby spinach)

1/2 cup fresh parsley 1/4 cup fresh chives juice of 1 lemon 1/4 cup shaved parmesan cheese 4 tbsp quality olive oil + more to taste salt to taste pepper to taste 1 cup croutons (I make mine at home, but storebought work just fine) 1 tin spicy sardines + their oil (optional)

Jess’s Thoughts!

We are just fresh back from our amazing trip (posts coming this week!) so I’m going to keep it simple at home (takeout is happening), and simple here for today’s post. This light spring pea & bean salad was a new weeknight hit in our house because it hits all the highlights: packed full of veggies, a little kick from the dressing (especially if you include spicy sardines, like we did!) and just enough parm & croutons to help pretend you’re having an indulgent carby meal. Plus, I love shelled peas (they call them “petit pois” here in France), and any excuse to use them—and slice into them to see all those little baby peas running out—is a treat for me. Hopefully you can find them at your Whole Foods or local farmers’ market, but if not, sugar snap peas can make a decent substitute. PS—sorry for the late night / dark picture... I didn’t get to even *start* dinner prep for this dish until finishing work pretty late. But, that’s how it is for 99% of the world, working all day and racing home to make something from scratch, so the silver lining is that this is super quick and still totally delicious... definitely a weeknight (healthy!) meal contender. 80


let’s get cooking 1. Roughly chop the shelled peas and haricots verts and add to a medium saucepot. Fill with water until the peas and beans are freely moving around, then place over high heat. Add a pinch of salt to season. Blanch over high heat for about 4 to 5 minutes, until the peas and beans are just cooked and are soft when pierced with a fork. Be careful to not overcook—you want the veggies to retain a slight crispness. Drain over a colander and set aside. 2. Roughly chop mache lettuce and add to a large salad bowl. Roughly chop parsley and chives and add to the mache. Add parmesan cheese, croutons, drained white beans and drained shelled peas / haricots verts to the bowl. 3. If using spicy sardines, use your hands to break them up and add to the salad bowl. Pour about 1 tbsp of the spicy oil in as additional dressing (if doing so, reduce olive oil quantity to 3 tbsp). Squeeze lemon juice into the salad bowl, then add olive oil (3 tbsp if you used sardine oil, 4 tbsp otherwise). Add a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Toss everything to combine. 4. Taste to check seasoning and adjust as needed, then serve.

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poached salmon with peas, mushrooms & quinoa (makes 2 servings) total prep & cook time: 30 minutes

ingredients

2 salmon filets (6 to 8 oz each, skin on) 1 cup dry white wine ~2 cups water 2 tbsp salt + 1/4 tsp salt later on sprig of thyme (optional) 4 tbsp unsalted butter 8 or 9 medium mushrooms, sliced thinly 1 cup frozen (or fresh, shelled) peas 1/2 cup heavy cream 1/4 tsp pepper 2 cups cooked quinoa juice of 1/2 lemon (for serving)

Jess’s Thoughts!

Here’s an old-but-goodie salmon weeknight meal that totally gets right the difficult springtime balance of healthy-fast-indulgent. I don’t poach all that often at home, but it is such a great, simple, good-for-you cooking method... and in this recipe, it’s also a secret weapon, because the poaching liquid is used afterwards to add complexity to the sauce. This dish is also a great pantry go-to... almost everything here can be swapped out to use what you have at home: the mushrooms or peas can be swapped for asparagus or even spinach, cream can be replaced with milk, and the quinoa can be replaced with your favorite grain (I almost went with lentils.. yum). Just add some quality salmon, and you’re ready to cook! This recipe is adapted from a spring favorite from Bon Appetit... they got it very, very right, but to make this dish a little better for you (and more satisfying), I amped up the veggies and added a quinoa base to soak up all that delicious sauce. I also like to poach fish with a small sachet of herbs to add a floral element... I used a sprig of thyme here, but it’s 100% optional—the recipe is also delicious without.

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let’s get cooking 1. Gently wash fish under cold water and pat dry with a paper towel. Place salmon filets, skin down, in a medium sized saucepot or high-sided skillet. Add white wine, wine, 2 tbsp salt and thyme, if using. Cover the pot and bring to a strong simmer over medium high heat, then uncover and reduce heat until the liquid is just barely simmering. Set the timer for 6 minutes to poach. After 6 minutes, remove the fish from the liquid and set aside on a plate. Do not toss the poaching liquid yet! 2. In a skillet, add butter and mushrooms and cook over medium high heat, until mushrooms are butter basted and softened. Add peas and about 1/2 cup of the poaching liquid (I used a soup ladle, filled about 3/4 of the way full, to simplify). Cook for an additional 2 minutes until peas have risen to temperature and absorbed a small amount of the liquid. 3. Add heavy cream, 1/4 tsp salt and 1/4 tsp pepper to the sauce, and stir to incorporate. Cook for an additional 5 minutes over medium low heat, stirring frequently, until the sauce is reduced (the sauce should coat a spoon when it's ready). Remove from heat. 4. Remove the skin from the bottom of the fish. On a plate, serve 1 cup quinoa with the salmon filet draped over. Pour sauce & veggies over the top of the salmon filet. Drizzle with a light squirt of lemon juice and serve.

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pumpkin chocolate chip bread (makes 2 loaves) total prep & cook time: 1 1/2 hours (1/2 hour prep, 1 hour baking time)

ingredients

1 15 oz can pumpkin puree 2 cups white sugar 2/3 cup canola oil (coconut oil also substitutes well here!) 1/2 cup water 1 tsp vanilla 3 eggs 2 1/3 cup flour

Jess’s Thoughts!

2 tsp cinnamon 2 tsp nutmeg 1 1/2 tsp baking soda 1 tsp salt 1/3 tsp ginger 1 1/2 cups chocolate chips (most of a 12 oz bag, I use Ghirardelli semi-sweet chips)

Pumpkin bread is the fall classic (turns out one of my best friends was making pumpkin bread this exact same morning—meant to be!). It fills your house with delicious cinnamon-y smells, makes a perfect breakfast (and dessert) and has that moist yet textured crumb that so many breads fail to achieve. Avoid recipes that don't use oil and water... both are necessary for that soft, almost dough-y crumb. I added some coconut oil when I ran out of canola this time, and it worked like a charm... plus added a nice floral scent during the baking process. Last but not least, I subscribe to the Smitten Kitchen view of the universe: dough/batter is merely a vehicle to hold together chocolate chips... lots and lots of chocolate chips.

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let’s get cooking 1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a large mixing bowl, combine pumpkin, sugar, oil, water, vanilla and eggs. Beat with a wooden spoon until combined. 2. In a medium bowl, combine flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, ginger and baking soda. Mix with a spoon until spices are evenly distributed. 3. Add dry ingredients to the pumpkin batter in two batches, stirring slowly. Mix until all of the dry ingredients are incorporated, scraping the bottom to check for any flour pockets. 4. Butter two loaf tins, covering the bottom and sides (ensures your loaves do not stick and tear). Pour the batter in to each tin, splitting evenly. Each loaf tin will be only 1/3 to 1/2 full—this is fine... the loaves will rise significantly during baking. 5. Bake for 60 minutes, rotating the loaves halfway through the baking process. Check in the last 10 to 15 minutes—if the tops are already golden brown, cover with tin foil for the remainder. 6. After 60 minutes, insert a toothpick into the center of each loaf to test for doneness. If the toothpick completes out clean, remove bread and let cool. If toothpick comes out with batter, bake for an additional 10 minutes, retesting before removing. 7. Let loaves cool, then remove from tins and slice to serve. Pumpkin bread keeps well, and will be more moist (but will lose crunch alongside the edges) on day 2.

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meet Jess!

Jessica Baker Writer, baker, traveler, INSEAD partner

Jessica currently lives just outside of Paris, France with her husband, Andrew. Jessica began her professional career in finance, but her true passions are curling up with a good book and the quest for the perfect croissant.

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