Designer
File
FASH 110-01 Caroline Wild
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Table
of
Contents
1. Celine 5. Delpozo 9. Giambattista Valli 13. Iris van Herpen 17. Marchesa 21. Marc Jacobs 25. Moschino 29. Peter Pilotto 33. Sonia Rykiel 37. Valentino
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Celine Celine is a French Ready-to-Wear brand that was originally founded in 1945 by Celine Vipiana. Phoebe Philo is the current creative director of Celine and has been since 2008. She was born in France, but did all of her schooling in England. She graduated from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in 1996. She still resides in London with her family despite the fact that Celine’s central headquarters remains in Paris. Phoebe was also named one of Time Magazine’s 100 Most Influential people in 2014. As for the design style of Celine, they value both timelessness and innovation. Their use of technologically advanced materials and strong silhouettes are two of the many ways that Celine differentiates themselves from the competition. They also deliver extremely high quality leather goods that are like no other. Celine products have a simple sophistication about them that allow the garments to take on a life of their own.
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Spring/Summer
2017
Key Items: Oversized Blazers / Mid-Length Dresses, Skirts, and Pants / Structured, Oversized Tops / Tailored Suits / Draped Evening Dresses Colors: Black / White / Reds / Orange / Yellows / Greens / Blues / Pinks Materials & Trims: Woven Shirting / Lightweight Wool / Chiffon / Knits / Crochet / Leather / Round Metallic Studs Prints & Patterns: Plaids / Flora / Blue Digital Print Footwear: Ankle Boots / Heeled Sandals / Slip On Heels Accessories: Sleek Leather Bags / Pearl Drop Earrings
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Delpozo Delpozo was originally founded by designer Jesus del Pozo in 1974 in Madrid. In 2012, the company was handed over to designer Josep Font who was originally trained in architecture. While in school, Font took patternmaking and sewing classes at FD Moda in Barcelona. He started out with his own label, showing in cities like Madrid and Tokyo before taking over Delpozo. Since being with Delpozo, Font gained himself a spot as a guest member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Coutureto which has allowed him to show his couture collections in Paris. The company’s central focus since its creation has been creativity and craftsmanship. Font’s architectural background supports that mission in many ways. His sculptural pieces are extremely well tailored and have silhouettes that only Delpozo could pull off.
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Spring
2017
Key Items: A-line Skirts / Long Skirts & Dresses / Wide Leg Pants / Tapered Pants / Long Coats / Jackets / Petal Shaped Sleeves Colors: White / Beige / Dusty Blue / Royal Blue / Pale Yellow / Orange / Pale Green Materials & Trims: Lame’ / fil Coupe’ / Linen / Poplin / Tulle / Sequins / Embroidery Prints & Patterns: Floral / Stripes / Plaid Footwear: Lace-up Flats Accessories: Chandelier Earrings / Holographic Vinyl Bags
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Giambattista
Valli
Giambattista Valli is a couture fashion house located in Paris. It was founded in 2005 by Italian designer Giambattisa Valli. Valli did his training at Instituto Europeo del Design as well as Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. He also worked for a variety of other designers such as Roberto Capucci and Fendi before starting his own label. Valli has an extremely romantic design style that pulls a lot of inspiration from his personal roots in Italy. He also pulls inspiration from the city of Paris, Michelangelo Antonioni movies, Yves Saint Laurent, and Gruau drawings. There is usually a lot of volume in his designs as well, but Valli always manages to maintain very feminine silhouettes. He finds ways to make the women wearing his clothes feel as glamorous as possible.
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Couture
Spring
2016
Key Items: A-line Dresses & Skirts / Straight Mid-Calve Dresses / Gowns / Bishop Sleeves Colors: Black / White / Yellow / Blue / Pale Pink / Red Materials & Trims: Organza / Lace Macrame’ / Sequins / Crystals / Embroidery / Beading / Mink / Tulle Prints & Patterns: Floral / Abstracted Houndstooth Footwear: Strappy Heels Accessories: Black Headbands
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Iris
van
Herpen
Iris van Herpen is a Dutch fashion designer that started her brand in 2007. She studied fashion design Artez Institute of the Arts Arnhem after which she interned with Alexander McQueen and Claudy Jongstra. van Herpen has won numerous awards and has shown at Couture Week in Paris. Van Herpen’s design style is one of the most futuristic and innovative in the industry at the moment. She uses a combination of hand sewn and mechanically engineered garments. She has found new ways to create garment pieces using 3D printers and laser cutting. She has collaborated with countless designers and engineers in order to turn her dreams into reality. She once said, “I find that forms complement and change the body and thus the emotion.� This proves that she thinks of her garments as works of art instead of just clothing.
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Fall
Couture
2016
Key Items: Mini Dresses / Mid-Length Dresses / Full Length Gowns Colors: Black / White / Nude Materials & Trims: Silicone / Crystals / Organza / Tulle / Pearl Coated Rubber Prints & Patterns: Stripes Footwear: Laser Cut Leather Heels & Boots Accessories: None
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Marchesa Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig are co founders and creative directors of Marchesa. Both women were born and raised in England and attended Chelsea College Art and Design where they met. They launched their label in 2004 naming it after aristocrat Marchesa Casiti. In the beginning they had their sites set on celebrities in order to get their names out there. In 2006, Marchesa was named one of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund’s top ten finalists. Marchesa has a reputation for having beautifully whimsical gowns that catch the attention of every fashion critic at every red carpet. Each design is incredibly intricate with small details that are not noticed at first glance. This creates a sense of intrigue that most customers cannot resist. The attention to detail that this design duo uses is what makes them stand out from the crowd in what can seem like an endless sea of evening gowns.
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Spring/Summer
2017
Key Items: Evening Gowns / Cocktail Dresses Colors: Black / Nude / Pale Blue / Lilac / Silver / Gold / Green / Blush Pink Materials & Trims: Silk / Tulle / Fringe / Faille / Beading / Embroidery / 3D Floral Prints & Patterns: Feathers / Floral / Equestrian Footwear: Strappy Black & Nude Heels Accessories: Chandelier Earrings
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Marc
Jacobs
Marc Jacobs is an American Designer that started his label 30 years ago in 1986 and is still designing today. Marc studied at Parsons and during that time became the youngest designer ever to win the CFDA Perry Ellis Award for New Fashion Talent. After working for Perry Ellis and starting his own line, Jacobs won Designer of the Year in 1992. In 1997, he was named the creative director of Louis Vuitton which increased their sales tremendously. Jacobs was even named one of Time Magazines Most Influential People in the World. His shows are some of the most talked about spectacles of Fashion Week. He also has Marc by Marc Jacobs which is a ready-to-wear line. Marc Jacobs style is extremely hip and trendy with elements of grunge. His clothing always makes a statement and never fails to leave the audience of his shows in shock.
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Spring/Summer
2017
Key Items: Leather Jackets / Long Coats / A- line Mini Dresses / Bodysuits / Tailored Pants / Oversized Sweaters / Hot Shorts Colors: Black / White / Reds / Orange / Yellows / Greens / Blues / Purples / Pinks Materials & Trims: Silk / Knits / Leather / Lace / Brocade / Denim / Snakeskin / Feathers / Fur / Tweed / Sequins / Corduroy / Velvet Prints & Patterns: Camo / Floral / Stripes / Dots / Leopard / Zebra / Hearts Footwear: 7 inch Platform Boots Accessories: Rainbow Dreadlocks / Bags / Necklaces / Belts
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Moschino Moschino was founded by Italian designer Franco Moschino in 1983. The company has always had a reputation for going against the norm and even sometimes making fun of fashion victims. Jeremy Scott was appointed creative director in 2013 and has done a great job of keeping with the labels traditions. Scott went to Pratt and after graduating interned with Moschino. He did start is own label in 1997 that he still has today. Scott’s design style is very bold with lots of typography and colorful patterns and logos. It’s very in your face. He uses the Moschino logo to his advantage and he even has done spins on the Barbie and McDonalds logos. He has a great celebrity following that also helps boost the popularity of his designs.
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Spring/Summer
2017
Key Items: Tops / Dresses / Skirts / Pants / Bodysuits / Hoodies / Jackets Colors: Black / White / Red / Gold / Pink / Green / Blue Materials & Trims: Knits / Shirting / Neoprene Prints & Patterns: Digitally Printed Garments / Polka Dots / Floral / Pills / Accessories / Graphitti Footwear: Pointed-Toe Pumps / Open-Toe Pumps Accessories: Digitally Printed Hats / Earrings / Necklaces / Belts / Sunglasses
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Peter
Pilotto
Peter Pilotto created his label in 2007 and was later joined by Christopher de Vos. The pair met at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. They gained a lot of popularity after winning the NewGen sponsorship from the British Fashion Council in 2010. The company is British based and sells their clothing in roughly 49 countries. Their most recent accomplishment was winning the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund. Peter Pilotto is known for its vibrant digital prints. The designers often pull inspiration from various locations around the world. They tend to spend time in the places they are pulling their inspiration from. This allows them to source materials and work with local artists.
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Spring/Summer 2017 Key Items: Maxi Dresses / Wide Leg Pants / Asymmetrical Tops / Halter Tops / Mini Dresses / Rompers Material & Trims: Denim / Cotton Shirting / Brocade / Sequins / Embroidery / Linen / Knits / Silk / Patches Prints & Patterns: Floral / Check / Stripes Footwear: Sandals Accessories: Drop Earrings
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Sonia
Rykiel
Sonia Rykiel opened her first store in 1962 and celebrated the 40th anniversary of her label in 2008 before passing away in August of this year. Julie de Libran was made creative director in 2014 after working for companies such as Prada and Louis Vuitton. She studied pattern making and design in Italy and Paris. Her first ever job, however, was working under Gianfranco Ferré for his private label and Dior. She has been known as a “secret weapon” for every company she has worked for, but Sonia Rykiel is the first company that she has had complete creative control over. de Libran has managed to bring back Sonia Rykiel’s classic French style in an updated way. She is bringing back the classic stripe and giving it a modern spin. She has given the company a much needed face lift that will benefit the company greatly.
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Spring/Summer
2017
Key Items: Oversized Shirts / Wide Leg Pants / Oversized Dresses / Fitted Tanks / Oversized Jackets Colors: Navy / White / Red / Yellow / Green / Tan Materials & Trims: Cotton / Knits / Satin / Lightweight Wool / Leather / Linen Prints & Patterns: Stripes / Floral Footwear: Chunky Wedges Accessories: Bags / Sunglasses / Cuffs / Hats / Belts
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Valentino Valentino Garavani gave his blessing and handed his company over to Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli in 2008. Chiuri left Valentino earlier this year to go to Dior, so this spring collection is the first one that Piccioli has done by himself. He had been working with Chiuri for over 20 years with different companies such as Fendi. Piccioli was trained at the Instituto Europeo di Design in Rome in the 1980s before working for Fendi and launching his career. Valentino is another company that has a very romantic design aesthetic. Most of that likely comes from the Italian background, but it as also created such a strong brand identity that if the company tried to change direction, their customers would likely be disappointed.
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Spring/Summer
2017
Key Items: Tea-Length Dresses / Loungewear / Mid Length Coats / Short Dresses / Full Length Dresses / Long Coats Colors: Black / White / Pink / Red / Yellow / Blue / Blush Materials & Trims: Silk / Lace / Wool / Tulle / Chiffon / Beading / Embroidery / Velvet / Cotton / Fur Prints & Patterns: Geometric / Floral Footwear: Lace Up Sandals / Lace Up Flats / Ankle Boots Accessories: Small Bags / Drop Earrings
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