Pure
Dec. 2016 ₤5,00
Vivienne Westwood by Tim Walker
CONTEMPORARY FASHION & NATURE
The Fear of disconnecting with Nature December 2016 Nature and the Fashion Industry
2
Colour Forecasting - From Multicoloured to Earth Tones
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Designer Editorial - Elie Saab & Vivienne Westwood
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The Living Grass Wall - Bringing Nature inside
9-10
Mother Nature´s Footprints In `Liberty´
11-13
Nature´s Prints - The urban Jungle
14-17
PURE´s Picks - This Season´s MUST- Have´s
18-19
This Season´s Trend - The Hiking Boot
20-22
London´s green Spots - Camden & The Garden Bridge
23-24
Exhibition Report - Colour & Vision
25-30
Epilogue
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“ Nature is not a place to visit. It is home.” - Gary Snyder
Photograph taken by Carolin Leitermann
Nature and the Fashion Industry
other Nature has always been
Many brands are now highlighting
an inspirational source for creative
their roots of heritage, honoring
minds as it fascinates one with its
true craftsmanship.
natural beauty and colour richness
People seem to have a greater de-
that can be found nowhere else than
sire to be surrounded by nature and
in nature. Moreover, providing one
watching out for natural products,
every single day with extraordinary motifs and an endless range of colour palettes.
therefore being a catalyst for a new exciting trend to emerge. Influencing the fashion industry with what people want and are longing for, it discovers new ways of connecting people with nature. As most people have a hectic lifestyle, leaving little time for trips outdoor, designer
Unfortunately, real natural beauty is hard to find in a time of confinement and a society that has absurd ideas of ideal beauty. Much is artificial, fake, edited, leaving small room for a pure, untouched natural world. So how come an industry like the fashion industry appear to have taken great pleasure in a theme like nature. Fashion designers from all over the world have shown their fascination for nature in their latest collections by integrating nature-inspired elements 2 in their designs.
use adventurous animal or floral prints, earthy hues, butterfly embellishments and much more to bring people, through fashion, closer to nature. Maybe it is exactly the fact of nature being pure and unedited that makes people wanting more of it in their lives. Keeping the eyes wide open, one might be surprised of how many nature- related subjects oneself is actually surrounded by, which will be further discovered in this magazine. Photographs taken by Carolin Leitermann
Colour ForecastingFrom Multicoloured to Earth Tones o forecast colour palettes for up-
Many designers are evident for
coming seasons the fashion in-
this shift as they use colours ac-
dustry makes use of the theory of
cording to the cycle in their cur-
the colour cycle. There are many
rent designs. They make use of
indicators influencing the choice of
multicoloured designs and prints,
colours for the up-coming seasons
that became more popular in the
like cultural, economic or social
mid- 2000s but also earthy tones.
factors. However, frankly, all colours As the colour cycle is sensitive to have a somehow predictable lifecy- world events it is not surprising cle. The periodic swing goes from
that society can find theirself in
high chroma to a purple phase. All
the phase of earthy tones as the
phases in between are documented
topic of sustainability gets in-
in the following figure.
creasingly a subject of important
(Fashion Forecasting, 2016)
Looking at where society can find themselves currently, it can be said that there is shift from multicolored to earth tones.
“One of the things that we saw this year, was a renewed sense of imagination in which color was appearing in context that was different than the traditional,” said Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute. “Reminiscent of the hues that surround us in nature, our Spring 2017 Fashion Color Report evokes a spectrum of emotion and feeling.” (Pantone, 2016)
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Designer Editorial Elie Saab & Vivienne Westwood his season is all about soft and creamy pastels as well as warm natural, organic colours. Designers like Elie Saab or Vivienne Westwood have given strong evidence for this at their recent catwalk shows. Saab has teamed up earthy hues with dusted pastels to create a feminine and edgy look whereas Westwood evokes an earthy mood by using muddy brown hues for her designs. Both, bringing people, that are wearing their pieces, closer to nature.
Looking more closely at the different designs, Elie Saab created opulent evening gowns for his `Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2016´ collection. Furthermore, he incorporated many nature- related elements like 3D embroidered flowers, crystal embroideries or flocked birds onto tulle dresses. (Vogue, 2016) For the embroideries mainly pastel shades like a blush pink (Pantone 501C), a juicy yellow (Pantone 600C) and a foggy blue (Pantone 5835C) have been used.
Pictures from Vogue.com
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oreover, Vivienne Westwood´s Spring/Summer 2017 catwalk show, which took place in Paris, shows contemporary shades of chestnut brown (Pantone 7531C), muddy brown (Pantone 7615C) or a desert tone (Pantone 4655C) pairing it with intense, electric as well as evening sky blue tones (Pantone 7694C/ Pantone 285C). The colours illustrate a sense of earthiness, moreover, statement hats made of straw, are depicting the nature theme really well and make the collection to a standout.
ment set up in front of Liberty, Carnaby, London are reflecting the key seasonal colour palettes. Pastel hues like the light blue of the flowers are seen in Elie Saab´ embellishments and have become core colours, that have emerged in different dusted levels over the last seasons. Westwood´s collection is depicting the flowers´ creamy tones making her designs timeless and evoke the urge for an outdoor trip to the countryside.
Pictures from wgsn.com & Google search
Photographs taken by Carolin Leitermann
In addition, the flower arrange-
The Living Grass Wall - Bringing Nature inside The highlight of `Anthropologie´s
t is scientifically proven that
interior design is an indoor living
humans react positively
wall next to its center staircase that
to nature and other forms of life
gets watered with rainwater, which-
(WGSN, 2016). Since, the theme
comes through the glass ceiling
of nature has become subject in
above.
fashion it trickled down to other markets like interior design. Visual merchandising teams have started to bring more elements of nature
The 656- square foot wall consists of many plant species that have knowingly a positive effect on improving
into their retail design due to the
fact that nature- related interior can the quality of air, hence, creating an eco-friendly environment in store. reduce shopping stress. The store´s retail design is tru-
ly based on the idea of creating a place to lose and find oneself (Dick Haynes), that makes people curious to discover it fully.
`Anthropologie´ on Regent Street has found an interesting way to bring nature inside to offer a homely, calming atmospheres to customers within the store.
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However, `Anthropologie´s nature related theme is not consistent in the brand´s philosophy as the store does not thoroughly offer organic products. Its philosophy is more about giving customers the feeling of being surrounded by nature and offering a sanctuary to those needing a break from London´s buzzing streets once in a while.
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Photographs taken by Carolin Leitermann
he iconic department store
An elegant lacy dress, a fluffy ruffle
LIBERTY opened in 1875 and
blouse or delicate winter floral em-
has become home to high quality broideries on heavy, dark coloured fashion brands. The Tudor fabrics can be discovered between revival building was owned by
hay. The crispy scent emerging from
Arthur Lasenby Liberty, who
the straw sends the visitors on a
made this department store to
fieldtrip to nature.
what it is today.
“I was determined not to follow existing fashion but to create new ones.” - Arthur Lasenby Liberty LIBERTY´s remarkable visual merchandising team always comes up with something special for its window display or the gallery, located on the first floor. This time LIBERTY has brought the countryside to its gallery, which displays beautiful garments from the designer label `Vilshenko´ between bales of straw.
11 Pictures from Google search
The fashion pieces hang up on hooks add extra lightness to the display. Moreover, the ruffle blouse with the embroidered maxi skirt and the lacey dress combined with the bales of straws reflecting an influence from 1800s, which goes well with LIBERTY´s heritage. The picture of women working on fields is popping up in one’s head, creating a historical scenery related to nature with the black embroidered dress and its transparent sleeves and chest details adding modernity to the scenery.
12 Photographs taken by Carolin Leitermann
Furthermore, other departments in LIBERTY like the Nike store have taken nature as subject for their visual merchandising.
Photographs taken by Carolin Leitermann
Nature´s Prints - The urban Jungle IBERTY´s fabric department offers a wide range of floral printed textiles, highlighting the current nature trend. Floral prints have been around for some seasons, however, they come in a seasonal update (WGSN, 2016), varying especially in colours according to the season’s colour palette and different textiles. This print creates an romantic and playful look that works well in all categories across fashion. Furthermore, key print stories according to the LONDON PRINT DESIGN FAIR 2016, that has taken place in October, are Stylised
retro, Historic romance, Macro botanical and Eastern garden.
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Photographs taken by Carolin Leitermann
he Stylised retro story is
Furthermore, the key print
influenced by floral prints from
story Historic romance shows
the 1970s which is also offered in
ornamental designs that take
LIBERTY´s textile department. This
inspiration from home dĂŠ-
print story combines vintage and
cors. The unicoloured back-
nature, found in trend colours like
ground and subdued hues
pastel tones.
used for the floral prints give this fabric a romantic and dreamy touch.
Macro botanicals features prints of maxi scale florals. Thus, highlighting the beautiful print that invites to be daring.
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Another key story called Eastern
garden features a wide range of prints. Beginning with delicate cherry blossoms printed on silk over bold floral motifs including colourful birds printed on cotton, as seen on the swatch from LIBERTY. This key story creates a decorative and opulent look . (WGSN, 2016)
Photographs taken by Carolin Leitermann
urthermore, animal prints inspired by the 80s, are and a key piece this season. Especially, leopard or tiger patterns on coats, shoes or accessories like handbags evoke an adventurous feeling and are
TOPSHOP
designers’ favorite exotic element
transforming the city into a wild urban safari. The range is endless, from prints on real animal skin to faux fur, this trend offers extravagance to ment prints are all about `More is less´ and prove their commercial viability by its extensive offer across all
TOPSHOP
everyone. Nevertheless, these state-
market segments.
Dries Van Noten
Photographs taken by Carolin Leitermann
URE´S PICKS
Photographs taken by Carolin Leitermann
(needleandthread.com, 2016)
The label Needle &Thread shows off beautiful floral embelishments in its recent collection. PURE is dreaming about these romatantic designs and are a Must- Have in every women´s wardrobe, especially with the festive season laying right ahead.
Needle & Thread ₤300
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Needle & Thread ₤300
Photographs taken by Carolin Leitermann
GUCCI ₤330
DRIES VAN NOTEN ₤413
SAINT LAURENT
₤845
LIBERTY ₤195 VILSHENKO MIDI SKIRT ₤1,375.00 JACKET ₤ 1,363.00
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ALICE & OLIVIA ₤584
The Hiking Boot Trend ne of the hot pieces this season is the hiking boot. A MustHave, that is available in a wide range of different designs in both the luxury as well as in the mass market. Dior´s extravagant design makes this originally practical boot to a real fashion statement.
River Island makes the trend available to everyone with its high heeled hiking boot with shearling trims.
RIVER ISLAND
This footwear trend has been building up for years and brands like Timberland have always been well known for their classic designs.
DIOR 20
Photographs taken by Carolin Leitermann
6)
1 d, 20 n a l ber (Tim
he hiking boot has The hiking boot trend remade its way from peats the Birkenstock phehiking tracks to the nomenon as designers catwalk like sneakers have across the fashion industry moved from basketball seem to have figured out courts to the high street how to convert Practical (Telegraph, 2016). Even into Fashionable. This trathough the designs that ditionally stylish It-piece is have been seen on recent easy to combine and makes catwalks feature rubber everyone ready for a tastethick soles and waterful stroll through London. proof textiles, these boots are not suitable for a hiking trip in the mountains. However, the boot does not lose its atmospheric nature related vibe. Furthermore, most designs still show the distinctive criss cross lacing that reminds of (P int ers their t, ZARA 20 16 ancestor, ) the original hiker boot. 21
RIVER ISLAND
Kurt Geiger
RIVER ISLAND
FOREVER 21 22
London´s green Spots Camden & The Garden Bridge s people , living in an urban area, have increasingly less time for trips to nature, architects try to bring nature to the people in the city. A good example for this is a building in Camden, London looking like a huge rubix cube that is fully covered up with leaves on the outside. Bringing a little green spot into a grey, noisy city jungle.
Photographs taken by Carolin Leitermann
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In addition, architects seem to like the idea of incorporating nature into their projects as more green spaces are planned for London in the future. The concept of the London Garden Bridge, that is supposed to be built over river Thames, is a hugely discussed project in the news. The Garden Bridge would not only be used as pedestrian crossing but also public park, that should promote biodiversity and provides green space for social interaction, recreation and environmental education. Hence, being another example for architectural ideas of bringing nature to a metropolis like London and reconnecting citizens with nature.
(Independent, 2016)
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`We use colour to create our identity and to represent our feelings´ (Colour & Vision, 2016)
he exhibition `Colour & Vision´, taken place at `The Natural History Museum´ in London, had a vital part in the development of this magazine. This exhibitiongave a better understanding of the evolution of colour and enabled visitors to visualize colour through the eyes of nature. Humans take their vision and perceiving colour for granted but there was a time where colour did not exist.
Furthermore, not everyone is seeing colours the same way as for example some animals or insects have neither a proper vision nor can all of them see colour.
Nowadays, humans love to surround themselves by colours and they use them everywhere in life, in technology, architecture, at home, in art and in fashion.
`The human use of colour is as diverse as the rich palette of the natural world´ (Colour & Vision, 2016). Moreover, nature´s colour richness has a function as it can even be used as communication, which occurs a lot in the animal kingdom. 26
Photographs taken by Carolin Leitermann
`Colour is music to our eyes´ (Colour & Vision 2016)
Thus, colours have their own meaning. `Colour and vision enables all species to survive and thrive´(Colour & Vision, 2016), indicating how meaningful and vital colour as well as vision is in daily life.
Not only concerning the animal kingdom but also the human species. Colour and vision must not be taken for granted and humans should celebrate the ability to sight this beauty.
The whole exhibition was a manifesto of colour and highlighted the colour richness of nature. Many colourful animals, insects and shells were exhibited and the subject of how other creatures see colours was fascinating. This exhibition connected visitors and nature and the understanding of colour was brought closer to them.
Nevertheless, to put this exhibition in context with fashion, many designers have taken inspiration from the flora and fauna as depicted in the seasonal colour palettes and choice of prints as well as embellishments. Furthermore, animals´ magnificent feathering and beautiful marked fur have influenced designers and their designs across the world as their recent catwalk shows have been evidence for it.
Photographs taken by Carolin Leitermann
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Elie Saab Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2016
Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017
Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2017
EPILOGUE As people become aware of how much the world is changing not only due to huge advances in technology or political issues but also because of environmental problems that need to be solved, the fear of disconnecting with nature emerges. However, people and industries find clever ways to bring nature back into society´s lives, which are often too packed to leave time to go outside or to undertake a trip to nature. One of the ways to reconnect people with wildlife is bringing mother nature inside. Inside cities, with exciting projects like the London Garden Bridge or
the Building in Camden, London, that is fully covered up with leaves. Inside shops like `Anthropology´ on Regent Street, London with its living wall. Moreover, influenced by people´s desires, international designers find inspiration in nature´s unlimited colour palette and include flora´s and fauna´s beautiful prints in their designs. Whether its designers, artists or scientists, they all take on the subject of nature and use their skills as well as their knowledge to reunite society with nature in many different ways.
“I felt my lungs inflate with the onrush of sceneryair, mountains, trees, people. I thought, ‘This is what it is to be happy.” - Sylvia Plath, The Bell Jar (buzzfeed, 2016)
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