Carter Marsh F I N E W R I S T WATC H E S
THE LEGACY COLLECTION On view: 30th June to 6th July 2022 – Stand 202, Masterpiece Art Fair, Chelsea Selling Exhibition: 9th to 30th July 2022 – 32a The Square, Winchester
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THE LEGACY COLLECTION
The Legacy Collection Story Growing up in the 1950s, my youth centred around Birmingham and its environs, which had been a hot bed of industrial design innovation since the 18th Century. Skipping a couple of centuries, the West Midlands continued to flourish in the post-war years after 1945, right up until the catastrophic economic decline of the 1970s. During my impressionable schooldays, it was still the heart of England’s industry, particularly in luxury automotive design, with the likes of Jaguar under Sir William Lyons, producing fabulous modern and ground-breaking racing cars, in the XK, C- and D-types, which succeeded at both The Alpine Rally and Le Mans. Like most schoolboys, I was mesmerised by the speed, danger, and glamour of these cars but, at the same time, the Swiss watch industry was starting to take notice and cater for these sporting events, and other significant historic advances. Years later, when I was fortunate enough to meet my French wife, our courtship involved finding a wristwatch together; quite by chance, we stumbled on a passion we grew to share. Soon discovering the joys of early utilitarian sports-timing and tool watches, we became fascinated by their unique place in key moments of 20th century history: from science discovery, record-breaking speed and endurance, to deep-sea and outer-space exploration - all involved timekeeping and the humble wristwatch. While Swiss brands had been tackling the individual rigours required of tool watches, in 1957, Omega made one astounding leap and produced their trilogy of worldrenowned and now iconic, professional tool watches: the Seamaster 300, the Railmaster, and the Speedmaster.
It seems unlikely, but during our watch investigations and enquiries, we never became aware of a 1st iteration set and, while I appreciate there must be others, an original Omega ‘Holy Trinity’ became one of our shared goals. Sadly, my wife passed away in early 2021 without completing our ‘Trilogy’, but it became a great solace to me to continue adding to, and upgrading, our collection. Every collector knows that an untouched tool watch is a contradiction, so an element of compromise is inevitable and, during our odyssey, we tried to find the best examples we could. This immensely enjoyable and fulfilling adventure took us on various fascinating, if circuitous, expeditions at home and abroad, to meet other collectors, as well as one or two first-owners, such as the 1st iteration Speedmaster (p.28) and the Royal Navy issue Seamaster (p.68). Most excitingly, I have just been able to achieve the 1st iteration Omega ‘Trilogy’ goal that we set together and, as a legacy to her, I would prefer those watches stay together as a set. To finish the story of our personal wristwatch journey, I too have recently been diagnosed with an illness that means I will not be able to continue. As this collection was a central part of our lives, I am trusting Carter Marsh to oversee their re-homing, in the hope that other collectors will also get to enjoy these fascinating and historic wristwatches, whose ownership and discovery gave us such pleasure and enjoyment.
THE LEGACY COLLECTION
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Introduction THE LEGACY COLLECTION ‘A man in time’ Our collector, who wishes to remain anonymous, has been buying wristwatches for 30 years and, in that time, he has collated an impressive array of professional-use tool watches. Borne out of his life and upbringing in the industrial West Midlands, this collection expresses one man’s passion for historically important wristwatches, that represent the best in Swiss, mid-20th century, industrial watch design. He shared his emotive journey with his late wife and is now offering their legacy of collecting to new buyers who share similar passions. With an emphasis on Omega-branded timepieces, including a first iteration trilogy set of Omega’s famous tool watches launched in 1957, our man in time also loves Rolex, and examples from the collection include some of the iconic models that they produced. It is our pleasure to offer The Legacy Collection and share with you a man in time’s passion for watches, which embody the pioneering spirit of their time, while evoking the emotional collecting spirit in all of us. Carter Marsh, June 2022
The Legacy Collection will be on view: 30th June to 6th July 2022, on Stand 202, Masterpiece Art Fair, Royal Hospital Chelsea, SW3 4LW Selling Exhibition: 9th to 30th July 2022, at Carter Marsh, 32a The Square, Winchester, SO23 9EX Tickets for Masterpiece are available on request from info@cartermarsh.com
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THE LEGACY COLLECTION
Index to exhibits 1.
LEMANIA Monopusher Chronograph HS9 ‘RN’
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2.
OMEGA Seamaster 300 Ref. CK 2913-1 First Iteration
12
3.
OMEGA Railmaster Ref. CK 2914-1 First Iteration
20
4.
OMEGA Speedmaster Chronograph Ref. CK 2915-1 First Iteration
28
5.
OMEGA Seamaster Ref. CK 2493-2
38
6.
OMEGA Ranchero ‘Seamaster’ Ref. CK 2990-1
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7.
OMEGA Seamaster 300 Ref. CK 2913-3 FAP
48
8.
OMEGA Seamaster 300 Ref. CK 2913-8
54
9.
OMEGA Seamaster 300 Ref. ST 165.024 ‘Big Triangle’
58
10. OMEGA Seamaster 300 Ref. 165.024
64
11. OMEGA Seamaster 300 Ref. ST 165.024 RN
68
12. OMEGA Speedmaster Chronograph Ref. CK 2915-3
76
13. OMEGA Speedmaster Chronograph Ref. CK 2998-6
82
14. OMEGA Speedmaster Chronograph Ref. CK 2998-61
88
15. OMEGA Speedmaster Chronograph Ref. 105.003-63 ‘Ed White’
94
16. OMEGA Speedmaster Chronograph Ref. 105.003-65 ‘Ed White – Tropical’
100
17. OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Ref. 145.012-67
106
18. OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Ref. ST 145.012-67
112
19. OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Ref. ST 145.012-68
116
20. OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Ref. ST 145.022-69 ‘Pre-Moon – Tropical’
120
21. ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Submariner Ref. 5508 ‘Small Crown Bond’
128
22. ROLEX Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master Ref. 6542 ‘Pussy Galore’
134
23. ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Submariner Ref. 6538 ‘Big Crown Bond – Tropical’
140
24. ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Submariner Ref. 5513 ‘Gilt, Underline, Swiss’
146
25. ROLEX Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6239 ‘Small Daytona’
152
26. ROLEX Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master Ref. 1675 ‘Long E – Fuchsia’
158
27. ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date Ref. 168000 ‘Transitional’
164
28. PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 96 Calatrava
172
THE LEGACY COLLECTION
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Exhibit no. 1 Collection no. 126
LEMANIA Monopusher Chronograph HS9 ‘RN’ A stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with military markings, made in the mid 1950s for the Royal Navy Dial: Sterile (no maker inscription), silver to off-white, closed outer track marked 5 to 60 outside tritium luminescent pips, with large Arabic hours directly inside, 30-minute register at 3 and continuous 60-second subsidiary at 9 Handset: Blued-steel syringe-shaped hour and minutes with central-lume, tapered and counterweighted chronograph seconds, and baton sub-registers Movement: Lemania calibre 15 CHT manual wind, 18000 VpH, with hour, minute and sub-seconds, with columnwheel function for chronograph centre seconds and 30-minute subsidiary counter MoD serial number: H.S.
9, and 5195
Case: Stainless steel with serrated crown, large pusher, fixed lug bars and screw-down caseback Bracelet: NATO-style strap Crystal: Shatterproof plexiglass (acrylic polymer) Dimensions: 38mm diameter, 46mm lug to lug, 20mm between lugs Year of production: mid 1950s Accessories: Supplied with NATO-style military strap
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LEMANIA MONOPUSHER CHRONOGRAPH HS9
LEMANIA MONOPUSHER CHRONOGRAPH HS9
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Lemania was founded in 1884, by watchmaker Alfred Lugrin, and specialised in high-quality chronographs, stopwatches, and repeaters. Companies like Omega and Patek Philippe have used Lemania-based movements among many others. In 1932, Lemania, Omega and Tissot merged to form the SSIH Group. In 1946 Albert Piguet developed the CH27 movement that became the Omega calibre 321 which powered the first Speedmaster in 1957. During the 1970s Lemania developed the famous Cal. 5100 which was used by Heuer, Omega and Porsche Design. In 1992, Lemania was bought by Breguet, who were later acquired by the Swatch Group in 1999. Although the Lemania name is currently dormant, derivatives of their calibres can be found in contemporary Breguet timepieces. The Lemania Monopusher Chronograph was issued by the British Royal Navy and Fleet Air Arm, between 1945 and 1976, and some earlier examples had ‘sterile’ dials (without maker inscription), as with the current example. The HS9 with ‘Broad Arrow’ was a government designation: HS standing for Hydrographic Survey (mapping harbours and waterways); the ‘Broad Arrow’ indicating Government property; while the 9 was their specific number to indicate a chronograph. Meanwhile the MoD serial number, 5195, suggests it was issued in the mid 1950s. As working military watches, many were restored and updated within the Senior Service. For instance, the original radium dials were deemed too hazardous in the 1960s and were exchanged for tritium dials marked with an encircled T. Equally, when re-purposed, the caseback engraving was struck through and re-engraved with new military issue numbers. This military Lemania monopusher ‘HS9’ chronograph, was issued by the Royal Navy, and still retains its original radium luminescent dial, and also bearing its original MoD serial number without later re-issue ‘strike through’. At 38mm, it was large for a 1950s watch, but is well suited to contemporary tastes, and is collectable example of a military watch from one of Switzerland’s finest movement manufacturers.
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LEMANIA MONOPUSHER CHRONOGRAPH HS9
Condition: This early example is in excellent pre-owned condition. The brushed stainless steel case is very good, as are the crown and monopusher button. The off-white dial shows an even, aged patina with the original lume present on the dial. The military specification fixed lug bars are intact, the syringe-style hands may have been expertly relumed, and the plexiglass crystal has likely been replaced at some stage.
LEMANIA MONOPUSHER CHRONOGRAPH HS9
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1957 TIMELINE: JANUARY - Hamilton Watch Company introduces the first electric watch - Elvis Presley appears on the Ed Sullivan Show for the 3rd and final time. He is shown only from the waist up. FEBRUARY - The first nuclear-powered submarine, USS Nautilus, logs its 60 000th nautical mile MARCH - The Treaty of Rome (Patto di Roma) establishes the European Economic Community - Copies of Allen Ginsberg’s Howl and other Poems (1956), printed in the UK and seized by U.S. Customs on the grounds of obscenity. APRIL - IBM sells the first computer for the Fortran scientific programming language JUNE - Broad Peak, on the China-Pakistan border, is first ascended JULY - The International Atomic Energy Agency is established
AUGUST - Argentinian, Juan Manuel Fangio, driving for Maserati wins his fifth and final World Drivers Championship, a record that endures for nearly half a century SEPTEMBER - The Civil Rights Act of 1957 in enacted establishing the Unites States Commission on Civil Rights OCTOBER - Space Age: Sputnik Program: The Soviet Union launches Sputnik 1, the first artificial satellite to orbit the earth - The Jodrell Bank radio telescope opens in Cheshire, England NOVEMBER - Sputnik Program: The Soviet Union launches Sputnik 2, with the first animal, a dog named Laika, to orbit the earth. - American physicist, Gordon Gould invents the laser. DECEMBER - The first U.S. attempt to launch a satellite fails, when the Vanguard Rocket blows up on the launch pad. - The Bridge on the River Kwai is released in the U.S. It goes on to win the Academy Award for Best Picture. - Boeing’s first jetliner, the 707 flies for the first time.
1957: FIRST ITERATION OMEGA TRILOGY
Exhibit no. 2 Collection no. 107
OMEGA Seamaster 300 Ref. CK 2913-1 First Iteration A stainless steel automatic diver’s wristwatch with bracelet, made in 1958 and delivered to Mexico Dial: Matte black, signed Ω, OMEGA, AUTOMATIC, Seamaster 300, with triangular radium luminescent indices, Arabic numerals at the cardinal points, and further signed SWISS MADE at the bottom Movement: Calibre 501 automatic (self-winding), 20 jewels, 19800 VpH, with hour, minute and centre seconds Movement number: 16072637 (dating to 1958) Handset: Steel Broad Arrow hour and dauphine minutes with triangular radium luminescent inserts, and steel flat-end counterweighted tapered sweeping seconds
In keeping with our collector’s wishes, this watch is being offered as a first iteration Omega ‘Trilogy’ set, together with Exhibit 3, the Railmaster 2914-1 and Exhibit 4, the Speedmaster 2915-1
Case: Stainless steel with straight lugs, first series centre-blank caseback, outer bevel engraved CERTIFIED HIGH PRESSURE WATERPROOF, inner stamped Ω Omega Watch Co, Acier Staybrite, HF (Huguenin Frères) and 2913-1 SC Bezel: Stainless steel serrated, with black Bakelite bezel insert and radium lume pearl at zero Bracelet: Stainless steel ref. 7077, with no.6 end links, and folding clasp signed STEELINOX, Ω OMEGA, SWISS MADE and dated 1.60 Dimensions: 38.5mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 200mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Year of Production: 1958 Accessories: Accompanied by a red Omega-signed presentation box, with Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production of the watch on April 14, 1958 and its subsequent delivery to Mexico
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OMEGA SEAMASTER FIRST ITERATION
OMEGA SEAMASTER FIRST ITERATION
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OMEGA SEAMASTER FIRST ITERATION
OMEGA SEAMASTER FIRST ITERATION
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First iteration Seamaster 300 ref. 2913-1 Launched in 1957 as part of Omega’s trilogy of tool watches, so named because each was intended to fulfil the practical functions and specific needs of different professional users. The Speedmaster ref. 2915 was the chronograph for pilots and racing drivers, the Railmaster ref. 2914 was built to withstand the high magnetic fields encountered in the scientific community, while the Seamaster 300 ref. 2913 was the diver’s watch for use underwater at considerable depths. This 2913-1 is the starting point of an incredible design legacy, and the Seamaster 300 represented a defining moment in Omega’s underwater narrative. The watch immediately became sought-after by professional divers, scientists and militaries for its exceptional reliability and easy-to-read display, which included sharp-tipped triangular indexes with luminous radium on a matte black dial, Broad Arrow hands and in the early references, a straight seconds hand for precision timing. The original black countdown bezel was one of the model’s defining traits. Slim with a serrated edge, it worked in tandem with a single dot of radium that counted down the minutes of a diver’s vital airsupply. Later, famously worn by Ian Fleming’s James Bond, the Omega Seamaster series has endured as one of the classic dive watch lines in history. Very few examples of the first iteration of the Omega Seamaster 300 are known to survive and to have one available on the open market is a highly significant event.
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OMEGA SEAMASTER FIRST ITERATION
OMEGA SEAMASTER FIRST ITERATION
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Condition: Presented in original pre-owned condition, with signs of age-related wear. The dial, handset, bezel and case are all original, while the non-naiad crown may be an early service replacement, we understand that some are periodcorrect by 1958. The original matte black dial has a very attractive patina, and the radium markers have taken on a warm pumpkin hue, while the Broad Arrow handset has pleasing patination and matching radium lume. The Omegasigned crystal appears to have age, but is likely a service replacement. Reflecting its age, the original black Bakelite bezel insert has some losses, and there is consistent wear to the case and bracelet. This first iteration Seamaster 2913 is an exceptionally rare watch that only very occasionally becomes available, with its stunning dial and handset - a more original and honest example would be hard, if not impossible, to source.
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OMEGA SEAMASTER FIRST ITERATION
OMEGA SEAMASTER FIRST ITERATION
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Exhibit no. 3 Collection no. 120
OMEGA Railmaster Ref. CK 2914-1 First Iteration A stainless steel manual winding anti-magnetic wristwatch, made in 1957 and delivered to Venezuela Dial: Matte black, signed Ω, OMEGA, Railmaster with triangular radium luminescent indices, Arabic numerals at the cardinal points, further signed SWISS MADE at the bottom. Movement: Calibre 284 manual winding, 17 jewels, 19800 VpH, with hour, minute and centre seconds Movement number: 15374695 (dating to 1956)
In keeping with our collector’s wishes, this watch is being offered as a 1st iteration Omega ‘Trilogy’ set, together with Exhibit 2, the Seamaster 300 2913-1 and Exhibit 4, the Speedmaster 2915-1
Handset: Steel Broad Arrow hour and dauphine minutes with triangular radium luminescent inserts, and counterweighted tapered seconds Case: Stainless steel with straight lugs, Omega-signed crown, First Iteration blank double-bevel caseback, inner stamped Ω OMEGA WATCH CO, ACIER STAYBRITE, HF (Huguenin Frères) and 2914-1 SC Bezel: Stainless steel step-bevelled Bracelet: Omega-signed black nubuck leather with OmegaSigned stainless steel pin buckle Dimensions: 38mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 200mm Signed: Case, crown, dial, and movement Accessories: Accompanied by a red Omega-signed presentation box and Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production of the watch on November 1, 1957 and its subsequent delivery to Venezuela
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OMEGA RAILMASTER FIRST ITERATION
OMEGA RAILMASTER FIRST ITERATION
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First iteration Railmaster ref. 2914-1 Launched in 1957 as part of Omega’s trilogy of tool watches, so named because each was intended to fulfil the practical functions and specific needs of different professional users. The Seamaster 300 ref. 2913 was the diver’s watch for use underwater at considerable depths, the Speedmaster ref. 2915 was the chronograph for pilots and competitive motor sports, while the Railmaster ref. 2914 was built to withstand the high magnetic fields encountered in the scientific community. Named the Railmaster because of Omega’s longstanding relationship with railway companies, which started in 1895 with the supply of accurate pocket watches. It was Omega’s first wristwatch specifically designed for scientists, electricians, and technicians, who worked near strong electric currents. Anti-magnetism was achieved by creating a ‘Faraday Cage’ - placing a soft iron, Mu-Metal, inner plate on the back together with a thicker 1mm dial (rather than the usual 0.4 mm), and this special ‘double case’ gave the Railmaster protection against a magnetic force of up to 1000 Gauss. Mu-metal was developed by British scientists for the inductive loading of submarine telegraph cables, it was patented in 1923 by The Telegraph Construction and Maintenance Co. Ltd. and the trademark was finally abandoned in 1985. The Railmaster is the most under-appreciated model of the trilogy, but no less desirable. Being produced for a short period only, between 1957 and 1963 (iterations 1 to 6), and in lower numbers than its more famous counterparts, it is exceedingly scarce. Furthermore, the first of this short series, the 2914-1, was the only iteration fitted with the broad Arrow handset together with a ‘blank’ caseback, while the calibre 284 was also only in use from 1957 to 1958, and all are found in this example.
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OMEGA RAILMASTER FIRST ITERATION
OMEGA RAILMASTER FIRST ITERATION
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Condition: Presented in good pre-owned condition, the dial, handset and case are all original, while the crown and crystal are service replacements. The original matte black dial has an attractive patina, and the radium markers have taken on an even and dark pumpkin hue, while the Broad Arrow handset has a pleasing patination and their radium has coloured-down to match. These first iteration Railmaster 2914s are the most underrated of the original trilogy and, reflecting its target market, were produced in smaller numbers, with its stunning dial and handset, this is a scarce and honest example. Why our collector bought this watch: “This was a very recent acquisition. We had long been searching for a suitable Railmaster and with it, I was able to achieve our long-awaited ‘Trilogy’ goal.”
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OMEGA RAILMASTER FIRST ITERATION
OMEGA RAILMASTER FIRST ITERATION
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OMEGA RAILMASTER FIRST ITERATION
OMEGA RAILMASTER FIRST ITERATION
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Exhibit no. 4 Collection no. 101
OMEGA Speedmaster Chronograph Ref. CK 2915-1 First Iteration A stainless steel manual winding chronograph wristwatch, made in 1958 and delivered to Austria Dial: Matte black, stepped, applied Ω and signed OMEGA, Speedmaster, radium hour markers, further signed SWISS MADE at the bottom. Movement : Calibre 321 manual winding, copper coloured, 17 jewels, 18 000 VpH, with column wheel chronograph function Movement number: 15997653 (dating to 1957) Handset: Steel Broad Arrow hour and dauphine minutes with triangular radium luminescent inserts, white flat-end counterweighted tapered chronograph seconds, and white alpha sub-registers Case: Stainless Steel with symmetrical straight lugs, Omegasigned crown, and small pushers. Blank caseback, outer bevel engraved SPEEDMASTER, inner stamped Ω OMEGA WATCH CO, SWISS MADE, ACIER INOXYDABLE, HF (Huguenin Frères), and 2915-1. Omega-signed, acrylic polymer, Hesalite glass Bezel: Stainless steel support, steel insert with black script Bracelet: Stainless steel no.7077, flat-link bracelet with no.6 end links, and short folding clasp signed STEELINOX, Ω OMEGA, SWISS MADE Dimensions: 38.2mm diameter (excluding crown), bracelet circumference approximately 180mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Year of production: 1958 In keeping with our collector’s wishes, this watch is being offered as a 1st iteration Omega ‘Trilogy’ set, together with Exhibit 2, the Seamaster 300 2913-1 and Exhibit 3, the Railmaster 2914-1
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER FIRST ITERATION
Accessories: Accompanied by an Omega Seahorse presentation box with beige ribbed interior, Omega Speedmaster brochure from the period, with Omega Extract from the Archives confirming date of manufacture on October 17, 1958 and subsequent delivery to Austria
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER FIRST ITERATION
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Other vital statistics: Dial: Type A2, oval O, low Omega, flat profile. OMEGA: Ultralight typeface; E with short middle stroke, G with short horizontal stroke. Speedmaster: S with wide lower loop, p with long tail; long and high ligature between S and p; m with rounded first arch; r with a low long loop extending to the right Crown: Type A1, 24 teeth, narrow Ω flat feet Pushers: Small, diameter 4 mm; length 2.5 mm Caseback: 1st iteration blank, Speedmaster to outer bevel Glass: Hesalite Type A3, long feet Ω Bezel: Type A2, steel 1000, rounded top 3. Tachymètre scale to 300; accented È in TACHYMÈTRE; A with flat top, C rounded and open, M with middle high point, rounded 0s in BASE 1000, 3 with rounded loops, 4 with flat top, 7 with serif
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER FIRST ITERATION
First iteration Speedmaster 2915-1 Launched in 1957 as part of Omega’s trilogy of tool watches, so named because each was intended to fulfil the practical functions and specific needs of different professional users. The Seamaster 300 ref. 2913 was the diver’s watch for use underwater at considerable depths, the Railmaster 2914 was built to withstand high magnetic fields in the scientific community, while the Speedmaster 2915 was the chronograph in this group, for pilots and competitive motor sports. This 2915-1 is the very first Speedmaster, manufactured between 1957 and 1958. It is identified by its Broad Arrow hands and a base 1000 tachymètre scale on the steel bezel. The first Speedmaster was not long in production – less than three years – and it is the most highly valued of all the Speedmasters. It is generally believed that between 30004000 CK 2915s (in three iterations, see exhibit 12, CK 2915-3, p.76) were manufactured between 1957-1959. Given the nature of the watch (a professional tool) and the production numbers, it is not surprising that there are very few good un-molested examples known, and fewer still with a reputed ‘first-owner’ history, such as the current example. In 1957/58 customers could order their 2915 series with either a leather strap or, as here, the original reference 7077 bracelet characterised by its short-clasp cover and double elastic links with no.6 end links, which on its own is highly coveted by collectors. A reputed ‘first-owner’ watch Our collectors appropriately paid a premium to the original Viennese buyer of this watch. Although presented without purchase documents, there is no reason to disbelieve its history. To retain its putative provenance, we feel it is sensible to note it now, while it remains in exactly the same pre-owned condition as when it left Austria.
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER FIRST ITERATION
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER FIRST ITERATION
Condition: Presented in excellent pre-owned condition, exactly as you would like to see it, ‘used’ but not abused. The matte black dial and broad arrow hands have developed a beautiful patina, while their radium has taken on a consistent, warm and dark, patina throughout. The steel Base 1000 bezel also shows signs of use, but no major flaws, and the Omegasigned crystal has been replaced in the past. The case show signs of age-related wear, but retains strength and thickness, while the original caseback has been polished. Importantly, the scarce ref. 7077 bracelet is in very good condition as is the Omega Seahorse presentation box. This first iteration Speedmaster 2915 is an exceptionally rare watch, while these do occasionally become available, being so soughtafter, they are often in some way ‘flawed’ - bought by our collectors as a ‘first-owner’ watch, with its stunning dial and handset, a more pleasing and honest example would be very hard to find.
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER FIRST ITERATION
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER FIRST ITERATION
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER FIRST ITERATION
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OMEGA SEAMASTER
Exhibit no. 5 Collection no. 128
OMEGA Seamaster Ref. CK 2493-2 An 18ct rose gold-capped and steel automatic wristwatch made in c.1950 Dial: Silver, signed Omega, Automatic, Seamaster with radium luminescent indices, arabic hour numerals and applied gold inidices Movement: Calibre 332 ‘bumper’ automatic (self-winding), 17 jewels, 19800 VpH, with hour, minutes and subsidiary seconds Movement number: 12419883 (dating to 1950) Handset: Gilt dauphine hours and minutes with radium luminescent inserts Case: 18ct Rose Gold capped stainless steel with gilt Omega-signed crown, steel caseback, bevelled and inner stamped ACIER STAYBRITE, Ω OMEGA WATCH CO., SWISS MADE and 2493-2 Bezel: 18ct rose gold, stepped Bracelet: Owner-supplied green crocodile leather strap with gilt pin-buckle Dimensions: 36 mm diameter, strap circumference approximately 200mm Signed: case, dial and movement Year of production: c.1950
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OMEGA SEAMASTER CK 2493-2
OMEGA SEAMASTER CK 2493-2
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Seamaster ref. CK 2493-2 Robust and dependable, Seamasters have achieved recognition for their rugged reliability since 1948. Its origins lie in the watches supplied to the Royal Air Force during the second world war. The ministry required watches with exceptional qualities: reliability and superior water resistance – verified by stringent testing procedures including immersion under different pressures and temperatures – high precision, interchangeable parts, and superior robustness. More than 26 000 water resistant Omegas equipped the crews and pilots of the RAF with an almost unblemished performance record. The civilian version of the watch, the 1948 reference CK2118 was understandably appreciated by aviators due to its high build quality and its ability to resist any situation at altitude, the watch was fitted with a reinforced crystal (held in place by a steel tension ring) finely adjusted to the tenth of a millimetre to avoid any deformation, whatever the conditions. The first automatic movements in standard or chronometer versions, were renowned for their remarkable precision, while all components were interchangeable, making routine servicing easier and cheaper. The CK 2943-2 presented here is one of the earlier Seamasters that have a distinct ‘aura’ especially with the quirky but accurate 120° rotation ‘bumper’ automatic movement inside. Turning the watch in your hand you can actually feel the rotor ‘bumping’ against the springs at the end of its travel. On the wrist however, it’s not noticeable. Omega re-ignited interest in the original 1948 reference by reissuing it for the Seamaster’s 70th Anniversary in 2018.
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OMEGA SEAMASTER CK 2493-2
Condition: An early Seamaster reference, the watch is presented in good pre-owned condition with a handsome silver dial and gold details, showing warm patination to the radium indices both on the dial and handset. The rose gold-capped case shows signs of age-related wear but retains good thickness to the lugs. The crown is a later Omega-signed yellow gold replacement.
OMEGA SEAMASTER CK 2493-2
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Exhibit no. 6 Collection no. 130
OMEGA Ranchero ‘Seamaster’ Ref. CK 2990-1 A stainless steel manual winding ‘double-signed’ wristwatch, made in 1958 and delivered to Germany Dial: Matte black, signed Ω, OMEGA, Ranchero, 30 mm, and Seamaster below, radium luminescent indices, Arabic hour numerals at 3, 9 and 12 o’clock, and subsidiary seconds, further signed SWISS MADE at the bottom Movement: Calibre 267 manual winding, 17 jewels, 18000 VpH, with hour, minute, and subsidiary seconds Movement number: 16364804 (dating to 1958) Handset: Steel Broad Arrow hour and dauphine minutes, radium-lumed, with small counter-balanced tapered seconds Case: Stainless steel, Omega-signed crown, snap-on caseback, outer marked WATERPROOF, the inner stamped 2990-1 Bezel: Stainless steel plain bevelled Bracelet: Aftermarket brown leather strap with Omegasigned pin buckle Dimensions: 36 mm diameter, strap circumference approximately 200mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Year of Production: 1958 Accessories: Accompanied by a red Omega-signed presentation box with red velvet interior, with Omega Extract of the Archives confirming production of the watch on December 2, 1958 and its subsequent delivery to Germany
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OMEGA RANCHERO CK 2990-1
OMEGA RANCHERO CK 2990-1
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Ranchero ‘Seamaster’ ref. CK 2990-1 In 1957, Omega introduced their three specialised professional tool watches that were destined to become legendary. But at this time, Omega was already working on a fourth watch that naturally drew inspiration from the professional range, but was designed as an all-purpose, price-conscious, timepiece – the Ranchero. Manufacture began in 1956, but the Ranchero first appeared in Omega’s catalogues in 1958, as Reference 2990 (as the current example). The Ranchero case was simpler than its tool-watch siblings, featuring a stainless steel 36 mm case with a flat press-in caseback. The case’s tall lip-edge allowed the back to snap into place with a gasket, giving water resistance of 30 metres and, in keeping with the Ranchero’s multi-purpose market, it was relatively slim at 10 mm. The watch was powered by the reliable hand-wound calibre 267 movement, and there was a choice between matte black or white dials, which owe much to the Railmaster, with radium luminescent triangles at the cardinal hours, but differing in its subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock. The thin crystal, coupled with the slim case and bezel, gave the dial clarity, while the hands featured were those found on all the the tool watches: radium-lumed, Broad Arrow hour and dauphine minutes. In 1958, two more versions of the Ranchero were added, the CK and PK 2996, in stainless steel and rolled gold. The movements used in these variants were the hand-wound calibres 284 and 285, both with centre sweep, rather than subsidiary, seconds. All of the calibres used, descend from Omega’s reliable 30 mm movements (30T1 and 30T2), and ‘30 mm’ was placed on most of the dials.
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OMEGA RANCHERO CK 2990-1
OMEGA RANCHERO CK 2990-1
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The Ranchero was considerably cheaper than its three tool relatives, and it was sold on a leather strap rather than a steel bracelet; a US Omega price list from August 1959, shows the watch starting at just $69.50, while the Railmaster was $130, and the Seamaster 300 and Speedmaster were priced at $180 and $195 respectively. Sadly, this forward-thinking all-purpose approach by Omega came to very little, the Ranchero watch was not a great success and struggled to sell, but nevertheless it spawned a multitude of all-purpose budget-conscious watches by different companies, aiming at the same market. Today, with a myriad of all-purpose watches to choose from, it seems surprising that the Ranchero failed to succeed, but a portion of the blame has been laid at the door of the name, Ranchero. The Omega Museum states that the watch encountered resistance in Spanish-speaking countries from potential customers who were put off by its name that means ‘Ranch Hand’ in Spanish. Omega was quick to discontinue production, but then came the process of releasing existing stocks. To assist, Omega merged some into the successful Seamaster line, so that dials are found with only the Ranchero or Seamaster branding, but a few desirable watches are signed with both names. Apart from a brief revival for the Belgian market in the 1970s, that was the end of the line for the Ranchero name. The Ranchero’s ever-increasing popularity in recent years, together with its evident links to Omega’s legendary 1957 Trilogy of tool watches, has given rise to a number of related ‘terms of endearment’ amongst collectors, such as ‘the fourth musketeer’, and ‘the fourth man’. This interesting and rare 1958 wristwatch has the desirable Broad Arrow handset found on earlier Rancheros and is powered by the initial, calibre 267, movement. In this instance, the Ranchero branding on the dial was combined with Seamaster, and this double-signed variant was intended for the European market and delivered to Germany.
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OMEGA RANCHERO CK 2990-1
Condition: Presented in excellent, pre-owned, condition with an attractive and warm, deep yellow radium lume patina, matte black dial, and ‘Broad Arrow’ handset. Unusually, as well as ‘Ranchero’ branding, this example has the additional ‘Seamaster’ logo printed above the small seconds register. The case shows signs of wear expected for watch of this period and has been sympathetically polished, but retains thickness to the lugs on all corners. All in all, this is a very attractive example of a not commonly-seen, desirable, reference.
OMEGA RANCHERO CK 2990-1
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Exhibit no. 7 Collection no. 106
OMEGA Seamaster 300 Ref. CK 2913-3 FAP A stainless steel automatic diver’s wristwatch with military markings, and bracelet, made in 1959 and delivered to the Peruvian Air Force Dial: Matte black, signed Ω OMEGA AUTOMATIC, Seamaster 300, with radium luminescent indices, Arabic hour numerals at the cardinal points, further signed Swiss Made at bottom. Movement: Calibre 501 automatic (self-winding), 20 jewels, 19800 VpH, with hour, minute, and centre seconds Movement number: 16338715 (dating to 1958) Handset: Broad Arrow hour and dauphine minutes, ‘Lollipop’ sweeping seconds Case: Stainless steel with Omega-signed crown, caseback outer engraved CERTIFIED HIGH PRESSURE WATERPROOF, SEAMASTER, Ω around the central Seahorse motif with military FAP to the edge, inner stamped 2913-3 SC Bezel: Stainless steel serrated, with black Bakelite bezel insert and radium lume pearl at zero. Bracelet: Stainless steel ref. 7077, with no.6 end links, folding clasp signed SWISS MADE, Ω OMEGA, STEELINOX Dimensions: 38.5mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 170mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Year of Production: 1959 Accessories: Accompanied by a red Omega-signed presentation box, with Omega Extract of the Archives confirming production of the watch on March 30, 1959 and its subsequent delivery to the Peruvian Air Forces (Fuerza Aérea del Perú - FAP)
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OMEGA SEAMASTER CK 2913-3 FAP
OMEGA SEAMASTER CK 2913-3 FAP
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OMEGA SEAMASTER CK 2913-3 FAP
Military Seamaster 300 ref. CK 2913-3 FAP Launched in 1957 as part of Omega’s trilogy of tool watches, so named because each was intended to fulfil the practical functions and specific needs of different professional users. The Seamaster 300 ref. 2913 was the diver’s watch of the group, for use underwater at considerable depths. The starting point of an incredible design legacy, the Seamaster 300 represented a defining moment in Omega’s underwater narrative. The watch was immediately soughtafter by professional divers and militaries for its exceptional reliability and easy-to-read display, which included sharptipped triangular indexes with luminous radium on a matte black dial, Broad Arrow hands and in the early references, a straight seconds hand for precision timing. The original black bezel was one of the model’s defining traits. Slim with a serrated edge, it worked in tandem with a single dot of radium that counted down the minutes of a diver’s vital airsupply. Later, famously worn by Ian Fleming’s James Bond, the Omega Seamaster series has endured as one of the classic dive watch lines in history. The current 2913-3 is where that legacy continued. This example was produced in 1959 and issued to the Peruvian Air Force, as confirmed by its Omega Extract. Showing in good original used condition FAP engraved caseback, this is a rare opportunity to acquire an historically important and truly iconic military wristwatch.
OMEGA SEAMASTER CK 2913-3 FAP
51
Condition: Presented in good pre-owned condition, just the way you would expect and want to see a military Seamaster: with signs of age-related wear, but not abused. The case, dial, handset and bezel are all original, while the crown is likely a service replacement. The bezel insert has wear to the black Bakelite, and is chipped between 25 and 40, with some scratching to the case and bracelet. The dial and handset show the requisite age-related patination, and the radium lume has taken on a pleasing deep yellow, pumpkin colouring. Altogether, a very attractive example of an exceedingly rare and desirable military watch.
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OMEGA SEAMASTER CK 2913-3 FAP
Fuerza Aérea del Perú (FAP) At the start of the presidency of General Manuel A. Odría (in office 1950-1956), the Peruvian Air Force was reorganised, including changing its name to the Fuerza Aérea del Perú (FAP). During this period, Peru was an allied to the United States and was predominantly equipped with aircraft built there, and from Great Britain. By the end of Odria’s presidency, the FAP had ushered in the Jet-Age with the introduction of English Electric Canberra bombers and Hawker Hunter, Lockheed F-80 Shooting Star and North American F-86 Sabre fighters. In 1956, President Odría surprisingly legalised opposition parties and called fresh elections, but did not run for office. He was succeeded by a former president, Manuel Prado, who in 1963 was in turn followed in office by Fernando Belaúnde.
FAP F-86 Sabre
On 3 October 1968, a military junta led by a pro-Soviet Army General, Juan Velasco Alvarado, organised a swift but bloodless coup. His alignment to the Soviet Bloc immediately caused relations to deteriorate with the United States, who declared an arms embargo in 1969, making it difficult to obtain spares for their American weaponry. By 1970, Peru had Soviet advisors in residence and had turned to the Soviet Union for its military hardware. The FAP then acquired several Soviet-made aircraft: including Sukhoi Su22 fighters, Antonov An-26 and An-32 transport aircraft, as well as Mil Mi-8, Mi-17, Mi-25 and Mi-26 helicopters. In 1975, Velasco was himself overthrown by the military and by 1980, Belaúnde had returned to power as a civilian president. Initially, the FAP purchased French-made Dassault Mirage 5s and Mirage 2000s, but by 1984 relations had improved with the United States and the Peruvians took delivery of Cessna A-37B Dragonfly light attack aircraft, as well as Lockheed’s C-130 and L-100-20 Hercules transport aircraft.
OMEGA SEAMASTER CK 2913-3 FAP
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Exhibit no. 8 Collection no. 113
OMEGA Seamaster 300 Ref. CK 2913-8 A gentleman’s stainless steel automatic diver’s wristwatch with bracelet, made in 1959 and delivered to Switzerland Dial: Matte black, signed Ω, OMEGA, AUTOMATIC, Seamaster 300, with tritium luminescent indices, Arabic hour numerals at the cardinal points, further signed ‘T Swiss Made T’ at the bottom Movement: Calibre 501 automatic (self-winding), 19 jewels, 19800 VpH, with hour, minute, and centre seconds Movement number: 16297662 (dating to 1958) Handset: Steel dauphine hour and arrow minutes, flat-end counter-balanced tapered sweeping seconds Case: Stainless steel with straight lugs, and Omegasigned crown, caseback outer engraved CERTIFIED HIGH PRESSURE WATERPROOF, SEAMASTER, Ω around the central Seahorse motif, inner stamped 2913-8 SC Bezel: Stainless steel serrated, with black Bakelite bezel insert and tritium lume pearl at zero Bracelet: Supplied with owner’s brown calf leather strap and pin buckle. Dimensions: 38.5 mm diameter, strap circumference approximately 200 mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Year of Production: 1959 Accessories: Accompanied by a red Omega-signed presentation box, with Omega Extract of the Archives confirming production of the watch on April 14, 1959 and its subsequent delivery to Switzerland.
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OMEGA SEAMASTER CK 2913-8
OMEGA SEAMASTER CK 2913-8
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Seamaster 300 ref. 2913-8 Launched in 1957 as part of Omega’s trilogy of tool watches, so named because each was intended to fulfil the practical functions and specific needs of different professional users. The Seamaster 300 ref. 2913 was the diver’s watch of the group, for use underwater at considerable depths. Sought-after by professional divers, and militaries, the Omega Seamaster 300 was favoured for its exceptional reliability and easy-to-read display, which included sharptipped triangular indexes with luminous radium on a matte black dial, Broad Arrow hands and a sweeping seconds hand for precision timing. The original black bezel was one of the model’s defining traits. Slim with a serrated edge, it worked in tandem with a single dot of radium that counted down the minutes of a diver’s vital air-supply. The 2913-8 shown here is considered an early transitional reference moving away from radium to tritium luminescent material in the late 1950s, the watch features an attractive matte black dial, long arrow handset, ‘count-forward’ bezel insert. Famously worn by Ian Fleming’s James Bond, the Omega Seamaster series has endured as one of the classic dive watch lines in history.
56
OMEGA SEAMASTER CK 2913-8
Condition: Presented in superb pre-owned condition, having a very attractive matte black dial with light degradation to the early tritium indexes, and matching lume to the handset. The case, dial, hands and bezel appear original, the bezel insert is in very good order with only minor scratches and flaws, while the case has been lightly and sympathetically polished, retaining thickness and strength to the lugs. All in all, a very well looked after, clean and attractive example.
OMEGA SEAMASTER CK 2913-8
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Exhibit no. 9 Collection no. 110
OMEGA Seamaster 300 Ref. ST 165.024 ‘Big Triangle’ A gentleman’s stainless steel automatic diver’s wristwatch with bracelet, made in 1966 and delivered to Italy Dial: Matte black, signed Ω, OMEGA, AUTOMATIC, Seamaster 300, with tritium luminescent indices, ‘Big Triangle’ at 12 o’clock, Arabic hour numerals at 3, 6 and 9. Movement: Calibre 552 automatic (self-winding), 24 jewels, 19800 VpH, with hour, minute, and centre seconds Movement number: 23797511 (dating to 1966) Handset: Sword-shaped hour and minutes, with diamond short point seconds Case: Stainless steel with asymmetric lugs, and Omegasigned crown, caseback outer engraved CERTIFIED HIGH PRESSURE WATERPROOF, SEAMASTER, Ω around the central Seahorse motif, inner stamped 165024 Bezel: Stainless steel serrated, with black acrylic resin insert (Type 7, slim font, no serif on 1, flat top 3, small flat top 5, no tritium minute markers) Bracelet: Stainless steel ref. 1506 with 516 end links, folding clasp signed No.13 STEELINOX, Ω OMEGA, SWISS MADE and dated 3.66 Dimensions: 42mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 190mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Year of Production: 1966 Accessories: Accompanied by a red Omega-signed presentation box, and with Omega Extract of the Archives confirming date of manufacture on May 23, 1966 and subsequent delivery to Italy
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OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 165.024
OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 165.024
59
Seamaster 300 ref. ST 165.024 ‘Big Triangle’ Launched in 1957 as part of Omega’s trilogy of tool watches, so named because each was intended to fulfil the practical functions and specific needs of different professional users. Seamaster 300 was the diver’s watch of the group, for use underwater at considerable depths. The version here is the fourth revision of the Seamaster 300, which made its debut in either late 1964 or 1965, depending on which of the several published chronologies you prefer to believe. The earlier model references, CK 2913 (1957), CK 14755 (1960) and ST 165.014 (1962) represent a gradual progression towards what most Omega purists regard as the most iconic Seamaster 300, the reference ST 165.024. The Seamaster 300 ref. 165.024 embodies the golden era of diving in the 1960s, with its clear bidirectional luminous acrylic resin bezel and high visibility ‘big triangle’ dial, it is larger overall than most watches of this period, which has allowed it to remain relevant to today’s sizing trends. The 165.024 was the variant chosen for use by various militaries (see Exhibit 11, p.68 for a Royal Navy example), including the elite British SAS and SBS military regiments.
60
OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 165.024
OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 165.024
61
Condition: Presented in very good pre-owned condition, the dial has an attractive patina, with the tritium markers taking on a pleasing, age-related, hue, the original handset has nearmatching colouring, but the hour hand may have been relumed in the past. The asymmetric case is strong, retains thickness, and has expected user-related wear. The bezel is original and in remarkably good condition given the age and adds to overall eye-catching appearance of this desirable reference.
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OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 165.024
OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 165.024
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Exhibit no. 10 Collection no. 129
OMEGA Seamaster 300 Ref. ST 165.024 A stainless steel automatic diver’s wristwatch, made in 1966 and delivered to Venezuela Dial: Matte black, signed Ω, OMEGA, AUTOMATIC, Seamaster 300, with tritium luminescent indices, ‘Small Triangle’ at 12 o’clock, Arabic hour numerals at the cardinal points Movement: Calibre 552 automatic (self-winding), 24 jewels, 19800 VpH, with hour, minute, and centre seconds Movement number: 24222014 (dating to 1966) Handset: Sword-shaped hour and minute with tritium lume, diamond, long point seconds hand, painted white Case: Stainless steel with asymmetric lugs, and Omegasigned crown, caseback outer engraved CERTIFIED HIGH PRESSURE WATERPROOF, SEAMASTER, Ω around the central Seahorse motif, inner stamped 165024 Bezel: Stainless steel serrated, black acrylic resin bezel insert with tritium minutes (Type 3 - bold font, serif flat 1, curly 3, flat top 4, tritium 5 minute markers) Bracelet: NATO-style in soft nubuck with stainless steel hardwear Dimensions: 42mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 200mm Signed: Case, crown, dial, and movement Year of Production: c.1966 Accessories: Supplied with NATO-style strap with Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production of the watch on December 1, 1966 and its subsequent delivery to Venezuela
64
OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 165.024
OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 165.024
65
Seamaster 300 ref. ST 165.024 Launched in 1957 as part of Omega’s trilogy of tool watches, so named because each was intended to fulfil the practical functions and specific needs of different professional users. The Seamaster 300 was the diver’s watch of the group, for use underwater at considerable depths. The version here is the fourth revision of the Seamaster 300, which made its debut in either late 1964 or 1965, depending on which of the several published chronologies you prefer to believe. The earlier model references, CK 2913 (launched 1957), CK 14755 (1960) and ST 165.014 (1962) represent a gradual progression towards what most Omega purists regard as the most iconic Seamaster 300, the reference ST 165.024 shown. The Seamaster 300 ref. 165.024 embodies the golden era of diving in the 1960s, with its clear bi-directional luminous bezel and high visibility dial, it is larger overall than most watches of this period, which has allowed it to remain relevant to today’s sizing trends. The 165.024 was the variant chosen for use by various militaries (see Exhibit 11, p.68 for a Royal Navy example), including the elite British SAS and SBS military regiments.
66
OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 165.024
Condition: Presented in excellent pre-owned condition, the original dial has pleasing patination with the tritium markers taking on a darker hue, and the handset is likely to have been relumed in the past. The asymmetrical case is good and has expected age-related wear. The original acrylic resin bezel is in very good condition with pleasing age-related surface and depth discolouration. All in all, an attractive and good example of a desirable reference.
OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 165.024
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Exhibit no. 11 Collection no. 108
OMEGA Seamaster 300 Ref. ST 165.024 RN A stainless steel automatic diver’s wristwatch with military markings, made in 1970 and delivered to the Royal Navy. Dial: Matte black, signed, Ω, OMEGA, AUTOMATIC, Seamaster 300 and fat encircled T, with tritium luminescent indices, Arabic hour numerals at the cardinal points Movement: Calibre 552 automatic (self-winding), 24 jewels, 19800 VpH, with hour, minute, and centre seconds Movement number: 28266094 (dating to 1969) Handset: Sword-shaped hour and minutes, with diamond long point seconds
A reputed ‘first-user’ watch Our collectors acquired this military watch direct from the Royal Navy serviceman to whom it was originally issued. As such, it is better termed a ‘first-user’ watch, and to retain its putative provenance, we feel it is sensible to note it now, while it remains in the same condition as when it left the service.
Case: Stainless steel with asymmetric lugs and fixed bars and Omega-signed screw-down crown, caseback outer engraved with MoD ’Broad Arrow’ above 0552/923, 7697, A/681/70, inner marked 165024 twice, and SP Bezel: Stainless steel serrated, with black acrylic resin bezel insert with tritium minutes (Type 2 bold font, sloped serif 1, flat top and bottom 3, rectangular 4, 5 minutes in tritium) Bracelet: Grey NATO-style strap Dimensions: 42mm diameter, strap circumference approximately 200mm Signed: Case, dial and movement Year of Production: 1970 Accessories: Accompanied by a red Omega-signed square box with red velvet base, with Omega Extract of the Archives confirming production October 22, 1970 and subsequent delivery to the British Royal Navy.
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OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 165.024 RN
OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 165.024 RN
69
Seamaster 300 ref. ST 165.024 Launched in 1957 as part of Omega’s trilogy of tool watches, so named because each was intended to fulfil the practical functions and specific needs of different professional users. The Seamaster 300 was the diver’s watch of the group, for use underwater at considerable depths. The version here is the fourth revision of the Seamaster 300, which made its debut in either late 1964 or 1965, depending on which of the several published chronologies you prefer to believe. The earlier model references, CK 2913 (launched 1957), CK 14755 (1960) and ST 165.014 (1962) represent a gradual progression towards what most Omega purists regard as the most iconic Seamaster 300, the reference ST 165.024, seen here. Various special features set the military-issued watches apart from Omega’s regular production units (see previous exhibits 9 and 10, p.58 and 64). Their cases, with distinctive curved and bevelled lugs, were delivered with fixed spring bars. Dials featured an encircled T designation, signifying the use of tritium for the luminous hour markers and hands. The broad, sword-shaped hour and minute hands, as well as the angular sweep seconds hand, were also specially designed. The crown was screw down, as opposed to the snap down design found on production versions. Their case backs were engraved by the British Ministry of Defence (MOD) with the military branch code, issue number, and year of issue. This watch utilises a crown, case and dial variation that complied with the Ministry of Defence DEF STAN 66 guidelines, and was issued to all sectors of the British Army, in this instance to the Royal Navy.
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OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 165.024 RN
Condition: Presented in excellent pre-owned condition, in just the way you would expect to see a military Seamaster: with signs of age-related wear and understandable servicing. The original dial has a very attractive patina, the tritium markers have taken on a warm hue, the military encircled T has small losses, and the handset is a service replacement. The original acrylic resin bezel is in good overall condition with general wear and pleasing discolouration. The asymmetrical case shows use-related wear but is strong, while the military-spec screw down crown, together with the Omega-signed crystal, are likely to be service replacements - all consistent and expected of a highly desirable and rare, Naval issued, military watch.
OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 165.024 RN
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OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 165.024 RN
OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 165.024 RN
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER
Exhibit no. 12 Collection no. 102
OMEGA Speedmaster Chronograph Ref. CK 2915-3 A stainless steel chronograph wristwatch and bracelet, made in c.1959 Dial: Matte black, stepped, with applied Ω, and signed OMEGA, Speedmaster, PROFESSIONAL with radium hour markers, further marked SWISS MADE at the bottom Movement: Calibre 321 manual winding, copper coloured, 17 jewels, 18,000 VpH, with column wheel chronograph function Movement number: 17302620 (dating to 1959) Hands: Steel Broad Arrow hours with radium triangular groove, dauphine minutes with radium triangular groove, dot counterweighted chronograph ‘lollipop’ seconds, with white alpha sub-registers Case: Stainless steel with symmetrical straight lugs (Type A1), with Omega-signed crown small pushers. Caseback, outer signed SPEEDMASTER, above seahorse logo, and Ω below, inside stamped 2915-3. Omega-signed Hesalite glass Bezel: Stainless steel support with steel insert and silver script Bracelet: Stainless steel no. 7077 flat-link bracelet with no.6 end links, and folding clasp signed STEELINOX, Ω OMEGA, SWISS MADE Dimensions: 38.2mm diameter (excluding crown), bracelet circumference approximately 175mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Year of production: c.1959 Accessories: Accompanied by a red Omega presentation box with brown suede interior. Apparently, Omega have mislaid their records for this batch of watches and therefore no Extract is available
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK 2915-3
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK 2915-3
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Other vital statistics: Dial: Type A2, oval O, low Omega, flat profile. OMEGA: Ultra- Light Typeface; flattened O; E with short middle stroke, G with short horizontal stroke; Speedmaster: S with wide lower loop, p with long tail, long and high ligature between S and p; m with rounded first arch; r with a low long loop extending to the right Crown: Type A1, 24 teeth, narrow Ω flat feet, 1957-69 Pushers: Small diameter 4 mm, length 2.5 mm Caseback: Speedmaster in centre, double bevel Bezel: Type A2, Base 1000, rounded top 3. Tachymètre scale to 300; Rounded 0s in Base 1000, accented È in TACHYMÈTRE; A with flat top, C rounded and open, M with middle high point, round top 3, flat top 4, 7 with serif Speedmaster ref. 2915-3 Launched in 1957 as part of Omega’s trilogy of tool watches, so named because each was intended to fulfil the practical functions and specific needs of different professional users. The Speedmaster ref. 2915 was the chronograph of the group, for pilots and racing drivers. The 2915-3 is the last of the original series of Speedmasters, manufactured in 1959. It is identified in this early example by its Broad Arrow hands and a base 1000 tachymètre scale on the steel bezel. It is generally believed that were between 30004000 CK2915s (in three iterations) manufactured between 1957-1959. Customers could order their 2915 series with either a leather strap or the original ref. 7077 bracelet, characterised by its short-clasp cover and double elastic links, and no.6 endlinks, while later watches were usually fitted with alpha hour hands. Notable features of this particular early 2915-3 include the and Broad Arrow handset with lollipop chronograph seconds, and highly coveted short-clasp ref. 7077 bracelet.
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK 2915-3
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK 2915-3
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK 2915-3
Condition: The watch is presented in very good pre-owned condition, the dial and handset are excellent and have taken on a pleasing patination, while their radium material is matching throughout and has an even and pleasing warm yellow hue. The base 1000 bezel is also in very good condition, while the case and caseback show signs of age-related wear, the lugs are thick and strong. Importantly, the rare short-clasp ref. 7077 flat-link bracelet is in very good condition – altogether, a very well presented example of this early, first series, Speedmaster reference.
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK 2915-3
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Exhibit no. 13 Collection no. 103
OMEGA Speedmaster Chronograph Ref. CK 2998-6 A stainless steel chronograph wristwatch and bracelet, made in 1962 and delivered to Bermuda Dial: Matte black, stepped, with applied Ω, and signed OMEGA, Speedmaster, PROFESSIONAL with tall radium hour markers, further marked SWISS MADE at the bottom Movement: Calibre 321 manual winding, copper coloured, 17 jewels, 18,000 VpH, with column wheel chronograph function Movement number: 18645692 (dating to 1962) Handset: Steel alpha hours, radium triangular luminescence, and matching minutes, with white dot counterweighted chronograph ‘lollipop’ seconds, and white batton sub-registers Case: Stainless steel with symmetrical straight lugs, Omegasigned crown and small pushers, caseback outer signed SPEEDMASTER above seahorse logo, and Ω below, inside stamped 2998-6, with Omega-signed Hesalite glass Bezel: Steel support with black aluminium insert, silver script Bracelet: Stainless steel no.7912 flat-link bracelet with no.6 end links, and folding clasp signed STEELINOX, Ω OMEGA 7912, SWISS MADE dated 4.62 Dimensions: 38.2mm diameter (excluding crown), bracelet circumference approximately 180mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Year of production: 1962 Accessories: Accompanied by a red Omega presentation box with red suede interior, Omega Extract from the Archive confirming manufacture on May 7, 1962 and subsequent delivery to Bermuda
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK 2998-6
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK 2998-6
83
Other vital statistics: Dial: Type A5: tall hour markers with low SWISS MADE. Wide gap between Ω and OMEGA, 29 seconds marker in line with centre of D in SWISS MADE, no Ts flanking. OMEGA: E with long middle stroke, G with medium length horizontal stroke; Speedmaster: S with medium lower loop and incurving to loop, p with shorter than average tail, long and high ligature between S and p; m with rounded first arch; r with fairly low and short loop Crown: Type A1, 24 teeth, narrow Ω flat feet Caseback: Type A3, Speedmaster in centre, double bevel Glass: Type A1, Hesalite, narrow Ω Bezel: Type B1, dot Diagonal 70. Tachymètre graduated to 500; accented È in TACHYMÈTRE; C stretched and closed, E with short middle stroke, 7 with serif Speedmaster ref. 2998 Launched in 1957 as part of Omega’s trilogy of tool watches, so named because each was intended to fulfil the practical functions and specific needs of different professional users. The Speedmaster was the chronograph of the group, for pilots and racing drivers. The 2998 was the second series of Speedmasters, manufactured between 1959 and 1963. It’s main distinctive feature was the black anodised aluminium bezel, graduated to 500 (replacing the previous Base 1000) and its alphastyle hands with either a straight or a lollipop central chronograph hand, as we have here. Eight case references were introduced in the four years of approx. 8000 units. Significantly, the 2998 was the first Speedmaster in space worn by the astronaut, Wally Schirra, on the Sigma 7 mission of the Mercury program in October 1962.
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK 2998-6
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK 2998-6
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK 2998-6
Condition: The watch is in good pre-owned condition with signs of age-related wear to the case, bezel insert and the no. 7912 bracelet. The dial is quite stunning with a beautifully clear but patinated appearance, the handset is good, and both have matching radium with a warm and consistent yellow hue throughout. The original dot over 90 bezel insert has light scratching and a dent at 120, the case retains strength and thickness, while the bracelet has later-produced no. 6 endlinks. Overall, this is a very attractive example of a highly-coveted reference.
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK 2998-6
87
Exhibit no. 14 Collection no. 122
OMEGA Speedmaster Chronograph Ref. CK 2998-61 A stainless steel chronograph wristwatch and bracelet, made in 1962 and delivered to Vietnam Dial: Matte black, stepped, with applied Ω, and signed OMEGA, Speedmaster, PROFESSIONAL with tall radium hour markers, further marked SWISS MADE at the bottom Movement: Calibre 321 manual winding, copper coloured, 17 jewels, 18,000 VpH, with column wheel chronograph function Movement number: 18949315 (dating to 1962) Handset: Steel alpha hours, radium triangular luminescence, and matching minutes, with dot counterweighted white chronograph ‘lollipop’ seconds, and white alpha subregisters Case: Stainless steel with symmetrical straight lugs, and Omegasigned crown with small pushers. Caseback outer signed SPEEDMASTER, above seahorse logo, and Ω below, inside stamped 2998-61. Omega-signed, acrylic polymer Hesalite glass Bezel: Steel support with black aluminium insert, silver script Bracelet: Stainless steel no.7912 flat-link bracelet with no.6 end links, and folding clasp signed STEELINOX, Ω OMEGA 7912, SWISS MADE dated 4.63 Dimensions: 38.2mm diameter (excluding crown and bezel), bracelet circumference approximately 180mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Year of production: 1962 Accessories: Accompanied by a red Omega presentation box with red velvet base, with Omega Extract of the Archives confirming production of the watch on December 6, 1962 and its subsequent delivery to Vietnam
88
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK 2998-61
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK 2998-61
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Other vital statistics: Dial: Type A5: tall hour markers with low SWISS MADE. Wide gap between Ω and OMEGA, 29 seconds marker in line with centre of D in SWISS MADE, no Ts flanking. OMEGA: E with long middle stroke, G with medium length horizontal stroke; Speedmaster: S with medium lower loop and incurving to loop, p with shorter than average tail, long and high ligature between S and p; m with rounded first arch; r with fairly low and short loop Crown: Type A1, 24 teeth, narrow Ω flat feet Caseback: Type A3, Speedmaster in centre, double bevel Glass: Hesalite, Type A1, narrow Ω Bezel: Type B1, dot Diagonal 70. Tachymètre graduated to 500; accented È in TACHYMÈTRE; C stretched and closed, E with short middle stroke, 7 with serif The Speedmaster ref. 2998-61 Launched in 1957 as part of Omega’s trilogy of tool watches, so named because each was intended to fulfil the practical functions and specific needs of different professional users. The Speedmaster was the chronograph of the group, for pilots and racing drivers. The 2998-61 was the second to last iteration of the 2998, it retained the applied Omega logo, the black aluminium bezel and its alpha-style hands with either a straight or as we have here, a lollipop central chronograph hand. Eight case references were introduced in the four years of approx. 8000 units. Significantly, the 2998 was the first Speedmaster in space worn by astronaut, Wally Schirra, on the Sigma 7 mission of the Mercury program in October 1962. The 2998 series was replaced by the ST 105 models released in 1962.
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK 2998-61
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK 2998-61
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK 2998-61
Condition: This watch is in excellent pre-owned condition, with beautiful patination to the original dial and hands; their radium matches, and has taken on a striking and beautiful deep pumpkin colour throughout. The bezel insert shows signs of age-consistent wear, but the diagonal 70 and dot over 90 are visible. The case also has age-related scratches, but retains strength and thickness, and the no. 7912 bracelet is in good condition. All in all, a very well presented example of a desirable reference.
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK 2998-61
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Exhibit no. 15 Inventory 136
OMEGA Speedmaster Chronograph Ref. 105.003-63 ‘Ed White’ A stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, made in 1964 and delivered to Switzerland Dial: Matte black, stepped, with applied Ω, and signed OMEGA, Speedmaster, PROFESSIONAL with tall tritium hour markers, further marked SWISS MADE at the bottom Movement: Calibre 321 manual winding, copper coloured, 17 jewels, 18,000 VpH, with column wheel chronograph function Movement number: 20521722 (dating to 1963) Handset: Flat white baton hours and minutes with tritium luminescence, with drop counterweight chronograph seconds and long tritium pointer, sub-registers white baton A reputed ‘first-owner’ watch This ‘Ed White’ is a recent acquisition and our collector bought the watch direct from the first-owner’s daughter. The original purchase documents are thought to survive, and it is hoped they will be found. If so, they will be provided as a bonus to the next owner.
Case: Stainless steel with symmetrical straight lugs, and Omega-signed crown with medium pushers. Caseback outer signed SPEEDMASTER, above seahorse logo, and Ω below, inside stamped S 105003-63. Omega-signed acrylic polyer Hesalite Glass Bezel: Steel support, black aluminium insert with silver script Bracelet: Stainless steel no. 7912 flat-link bracelet with no.6 end links, and folding clasp signed STEELINOX, Ω OMEGA, SWISS MADE dated 2.64 Dimensions: 38.2mm diameter (excluding crown), bracelet circumference approximately 190mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Date of Production: 1964 Accessories: Accompanied by an Omega presentation box in red with beige ribbed corduroy interior, with Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production of the watch on August 11, 1964 and its subsequent delivery to Switzerland
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 105.003-63
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 105.003-63
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Other vital statistics: Dial: A6, tall markers, high Swiss Made. OMEGA: E with long middle stroke, G with medium length horizontal stroke. Speedmaster: S with medium lower loop and incurving top loop, p with shorter than average tail Long and high ligature between S and p; m with rounded first arch; r with fairly low and short loop Handset: Type C1 Baton-Drop Crown: Type A1, narrow Ω flat feet Pushers: Medium, diameter 4.5 mm, length 3 mm Caseback: Type A3, Speedmaster in centre, double bevel Glass: Type A2, Hesalite, Ω short feet Bezel: Type B1, dot Diagonal 70. Tachymètre graduated to 500; accented È in TACHYMÈTRE; C stretched and closed, E with short middle stroke, 7 with serif
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 105.003-63
Speedmaster ref. 105.003-63 ‘Ed White’ Launched in 1957 as part of Omega’s trilogy of tool watches, so named because each was intended to fulfil the practical functions and specific needs of different professional users. The Speedmaster was the chronograph of the group, for pilots and racing drivers. The external tachymeter bezel allowed for easy reading of speed over a fixed distance but since, this model has become synonymous with space travel. The Speedmaster reference 105.003 was produced from 1964-1969 and it was the model that became officially qualified for all manned missions on 1st March 1965. Famously since nicknamed the ’Ed White’, in celebration of the astronaut who stepped out and performed the first NASA space walk during the 1965 Gemini IV mission. The ref. 105.003 was produced in three almost identical iterations over the course of five years: the -63, -64 and -65. The 105.003-63 was the first production batch, produced between 1964 and 1966 and bearing serial numbers ranging between 20.520.XXX to 20.522.XXX. Its design was similar to the outgoing reference 105.002-62, with a set of straight lugs, no crown guards and the permanent addition of the trademark baton hands for increased contrast with the black matte dial. This Speedmaster 105.003-63 is an extremely collectible early version of this reference. It bears an immensely rare early SWISS MADE dial, produced before April 1964, when strict Swiss regulations required any radioactive material to be mentioned on the dial. All those made by Omega after this date had to bear the T Swiss T indication at 6 o’clock. As the reference 105.003-63 was launched only a few months before the law was passed, very few watches have this early dial. Furthermore, the watch bears the archetypal ‘Dot Over Ninety’ (DON) bezel in its correct iteration, bearing a dot at the lower right base of the 70 mark, and produced from 1961 to 1970, while the calibre 321 is concealed by the original double-bevelled caseback, showcasing the Speedmaster script at the centre.
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 105.003-63
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 105.003-63
Condition: Presented in excellent pre-owned condition. The original, early and rare, pre-regulation, undesignated, tritium dial shows good colouring and patination. The lume itself has an even warm hue throughout, while the original handset has some minor flaking to it. The case has age-related wear and has been sympathetically polished, but retains thickness to the lugs, while the crown and pushers are also periodcorrect. The original dot over 90, diagonal 70, bezel insert is in very good condition especially for its age. Overall, this is a very good example of an early, first production, reference 105.003-63, with a very desirable and rare pre-regulation dial configuration, which was in use for less than 3 months.
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 105.003-63
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Exhibit no. 16 Collection no. 131
OMEGA Speedmaster Chronograph Ref. 105.003-65 ‘Ed White – Tropical’ A stainless steel chronograph wristwatch and bracelet, made in 1967 and delivered to Belgium Dial: Matte black, now fading to ‘Tropical’ brown, stepped, with applied Ω, and signed OMEGA, Speedmaster, PROFESSIONAL with tall tritium hour markers, further marked T SWISS MADE T at the bottom Movement: Calibre 321 manual winding, copper coloured, 17 jewels, 18,000 VpH, with column wheel chronograph function Movement number: 24539410 (dating to 1966) Handset: Flat white baton hours and minutes with tritium luminescence, with drop counterweight chronograph seconds and long tritium pointer, sub-registers white baton Case: Stainless steel with symmetrical straight lugs (Type A1), and Omega-signed crown with medium pushers. Caseback, outer signed SPEEDMASTER, above seahorse logo, and Ω below, inside stamped ST 105003-65. Omegasigned Hesalite Glass Bezel: Steel support with black aluminium insert, silver script Bracelet: Stainless steel no.1035/1501 flat-link bracelet with no.6 end links, and folding clasp signed No.13, STEELINOX, Ω OMEGA, SWISS MADE dated 4.66 Dimensions: 38.2mm diameter (excluding crown), bracelet circumference approximately 190mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Date of Production: 1966 Accessories: Accompanied by a red Omega presentation box with red suede base, with Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production of the watch on June 22, 1967 and its subsequent delivery to Belgium
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 105.003-65
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 105.003-65
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Other vital statistics: Dial: Type A7, tall hour markers with close T. OMEGA: E with long middle stroke, G with medium length horizontal stroke. Speedmaster: S with medium lower loop and incurving top loop, p with shorter than average tail Long and high ligature between S and p; m with rounded first arch; r with fairly low and short loop Handset: Type C1 Baton-Drop Case: Type A1 Crown: Type B2, wide Ω Pushers: Type 4, medium, diameter 4.5 mm, length 3 mm Caseback: Type A3 Speedmaster in centre, double bevel Glass: Category A Hesalite, Type A4, wide Ω Bezel: Type B1, dot Diagonal 70. Tachymètre graduated to 500; accented È in TACHYMÈTRE; C stretched and closed, E with short middle stroke, 7 with serif
Speedmaster ref. 105.003-65 ‘Ed White’ Launched in 1957 as part of Omega’s trilogy of tool watches, so named because each was intended to fulfil the practical functions and specific needs of different professional users. The Speedmaster was the chronograph of the group, for pilots and racing drivers. The Speedmaster has since become synonymous with space travel; the ref, 105.003-65 was produced from 1964-1969 and was the model that became officially qualified for all manned missions in March 1965. Famously nicknamed the ‘Ed White’, in celebration of the astronaut who stepped out and performed the first NASA space walk during the 1965 Gemini IV mission. The watch is legendary and highly coveted today. The Omega Pre-Moon watches are some of the most desirable Speedmasters, and this spectacular example has a lovely ‘Tropical’ dial and is fitted with the rarest double reference bracelet, 1035 1051, made only in the last quarter of 1966, and it also retains the original no. 6 end links which are rare in themselves.
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 105.003-65
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 105.003-65
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 105.003-65
Condition: This ‘Ed White’ is in exceptional pre-owned condition, the case remains sharp and we believe it has not been polished. The original stepped dial has taken on a dark chocolate ‘tropical’ patination which will continue to improve over time. The tritium has an even patinated dark pumpkin hue throughout, while the original handset has some minor flaking. The original dot over 90, diagonal 70, bezel insert is also in very fine condition and, considering its age and use, the scarce 1035/1501 bracelet is in outstanding condition. All in all, this watch is an exceptionally good example of a desirable reference.
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 105.003-65
105
Exhibit no. 17 Collection no. 118
OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Ref. 145.012-67 A stainless steel chronograph wristwatch and bracelet, made in 1967 and delivered to Italy Dial: Matte black, stepped, with applied Ω, and signed OMEGA, Speedmaster, PROFESSIONAL with tall tritium hour markers, further marked T SWISS MADE T at the bottom Movement: Calibre 321 manual winding, copper coloured, 17 jewels, 18,000 VpH, with column wheel chronograph function Movement number: 24955695 (dating to 1967) Handset: Flat white baton hours and minutes with tritium luminescence, with flat counterweight chronograph seconds and long tritium pointer, sub-registers white baton Case: Stainless steel with asymmetrical lugs and Omegasigned crown, wide and tall pushers. Caseback, outer signed SPEEDMASTER, above seahorse logo, and below, inside stamped SP 145012-67 and HF (Huguenin Frères). Omegasigned, acrylic polymer Hesalite glass Bezel: Steel support with black aluminium insert, silver script Bracelet: Type 6. Stainless steel No.1116, with folding clasp signed Ω, Omega, No.575 end links. Dimensions: 42mm diameter (excluding crown), bracelet circumference approximately 200mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Year of production: 1967 Accessories: Accompanied by a red Omega presentation box with red suede base, with Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production of the watch on August 29, 1967 and its subsequent delivery to Italy
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.012-67
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.012-67
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.012-67
Other vital statistics: Dial: Type B3, tall hour markers with spaced T. OMEGA: medium width E; G with medium horizontal stroke. Speedmaster: S with incurving top loop; S and p joined; m with pointed first arch; r with fairly low and short loop Handset: Type C2, baton-flat Crown: Type B1, 32 teeth, narrow Ω angular feet Pushers: Type 4, diameter 5 mm, length 3.5 mm Caseback: Type A4 Speedmaster in centre, single bevel Glass: Category A Hesalite, Type A1 narrow Ω Bezel: Type B1, Dot Diagonal 70. Tachymètre graduated to 500; accented È in TACHYMÈTRE; C stretched and closed, E with short middle stroke, 7 with serif
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.012-67
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Speedmaster Professional ref. 145.012-67 Launched in 1957 as part of Omega’s trilogy of tool watches to fulfill the specific needs of professional users. The Speedmaster was the chronograph of the group, for pilots and racing drivers. The Speedmaster has since become synonymous with space travel; the 145.012 reference was used by astronauts Michael Collins (Apollo 11), Alan Sheppard (Apollo 14) and Tom Stafford in the Apollo-Soyuz mission in 1975. Omega introduced the asymmetrical case with new pushers that are screwed into the caseband with taller caps. ‘Spaced T’ dials and single bevel casebacks are also features of this reference. The estimate of all 145.012 models produced between 1967-1969 is approx. 28,000 units.
Condition: Presented in good well-used condition with an attractive warm patina to the dial and handset, whose matching tritium lume has taken on a patinated darker hue throughout. Consistent with its age and use, the case has understandable scratching, but retains strength, the crown and pushers may be service replacements, the original bezel insert is chipped, and the Omega-signed crystal is cracked near II, while the later ref. 1116 bracelet is supple and shows signs of daily use. Overall, a well-used but attractive and honest example of this classic reference.
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.012-67
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.012-67
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Exhibit no. 18 Collection no. 105
OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Ref. ST 145.012-67 A stainless steel chronograph wristwatch and bracelet, made in 1968 and delivered to Japan Dial: Matte black, stepped, with applied Ω, and signed OMEGA, Speedmaster, PROFESSIONAL with tall tritium hour markers, further marked T SWISS MADE T at the bottom Movement: Calibre 321 manual winding, copper coloured, 17 jewels, 18,000 VpH, with column wheel chronograph function Movement number: 26071587 (dating to 1968) Handset: Flat white baton hours and minutes with tritium luminescence, with flat counterweight chronograph seconds and long tritium pointer, sub-registers white baton Case: Stainless steel with asymmetrical lugs and Omegasigned crown with wide and tall pushers. Caseback, outer signed SPEEDMASTER, above seahorse logo, and Ω below, inside stamped SP 145012-67 and HF (Huguenin Frères). Omega-signed, acrylic polymer Hesalite glass Bezel: Steel support with black aluminium insert, silver script Bracelet: Type 6, stainless steel no.1039 semi-elastic flat-link bracelet, no.516 end links, with folding clasp signed STEELINOX, Ω, OMEGA, SWISS MADE Dimensions: 42mm diameter (excluding crown), bracelet circumference approximately 200mm Signed: Case, dial and movement Year of production: 1968 Accessories: Accompanied by a red Omega presentation box with red suede base, with Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production of the watch on April 18, 1968 and its subsequent delivery to Japan
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.012-67
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.012-67
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Other vital statistics: Dial: Type B3, tall hour markers with spaced T. OMEGA: medium width E; G with medium horizontal stroke. Speedmaster: S with incurving top loop; S and p joined; m with pointed first arch; r with fairly low and short loop Handset: Type C1, baton-drop Crown: Type B2, 32 teeth, wide Ω Pushers: Type 4, diameter 5 mm, length 3.5 mm Caseback: Type A4 Speedmaster in centre, single bevel Glass: Category A Hesalite, Type A4, wide Ω Bezel: Type B1, Dot Diagonal 70. Tachymètre graduated to 500; accented È in TACHYMÈTRE; C stretched and closed, E with short middle stroke, 7 with serif
Speedmaster Professional ref. 145.012-67 Launched in 1957 as part of Omega’s trilogy of tool watches to fulfill the specific needs of professional users. The Speedmaster was the chronograph of the group, for pilots and racing drivers, but since, has become synonymous with space travel. The 145.012 reference, with its asymmetrical case design, introduced new pushers that are screwed into the caseband with taller caps. ‘Spaced T’ dials and single bevel casebacks are also features of this reference. The 145.012 reference was used by astronauts Michael Collins (Apollo 11), Alan Sheppard (Apollo 14) and Tom Stafford in the Apollo-Soyuz mission in 1975. The estimate of all 145.012 models produced between 1967-1969 is approx. 28 000 units.
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.012-67
Condition: Presented in excellent pre-owned condition with a beautiful case, having clearly visible bevelled edges and period-correct crown and pushers. The dial is stunning with golden tritium lume to the hour indices and hands. The original dot over 90, diagonal 70, bezel insert is in excellent condition, the no. 1039/516 bracelet is also in very good order, with some signs of wear to the exterior of the clasp. All in all, a prime candidate for the discerning moonwatch collector.
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.012-67
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Exhibit no. 19 Collection no. 119
OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Ref. ST 145.012-68 A stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with prototype transitional dial, and bracelet, made in 1968 and delivered to Switzerland Dial: Matte black, stepped, signed with painted Ω and OMEGA, Speedmaster, PROFESSIONAL with tall tritium hour markers, further marked T SWISS MADE T at the bottom Movement: Calibre 321 manual winding, copper coloured, 17 jewels, 18,000 VpH, with column wheel chronograph function Movement number: 26551036 (dating to 1968) Handset: Flat baton hours and minutes with tritium luminescence, with flat counterweight chronograph seconds and long tritium pointer, and white baton sub-registers Case: Stainless steel with asymmetrical lugs and Omegasigned crown with wide and tall pushers. Caseback, outer signed SPEEDMASTER, above seahorse logo, and Ω below, inside stamped HF (Huguenin Frères) and 145012-68 SP. Omega-signed, acrylic polymer Hesalite glass Bezel: Steel support with black aluminium insert, silver script Bracelet: Type 6 stainless steel, no.640 end links, with grooved folding clasp signed Ω Omega (no date) Dimensions: 42mm diameter (excluding crown), bracelet circumference approximately 200mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Year of production: 1968 Accessories: Accompanied by a red Omega presentation box with red suede interior, with Omega Extract of the Archives confirming production of the watch on November 1, 1968 and its subsequent delivery to Switzerland
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.012-68
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.012-68
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Other vital statistics: Dial: Type B3, tall hour markers with spaced T. OMEGA: medium width E; G with medium horizontal stroke. Speedmaster: S with incurving top loop; S and p joined; m with pointed first arch; r with fairly low and short loop Handset: Type C2, baton-flat Case: Type B2 Crown: Type A1, narrow Ω flat Feet Pushers: Type 4, diameter 5 mm, length 3.5 mm Caseback: Type A4, Speedmaster in centre, single bevel Glass: Category A Hesalite, Type A2, short feet Ω Bezel: Type B1, dot Diagonal 70. Tachymètre graduated to 500; accented È in TACHYMÈTRE; C stretched and closed, E with short middle stroke, 7 with serif
Speedmaster Professional ref. 145.012 The 145.012 reference was the last Speedmaster to use the famed 321 calibre movement as used by astronauts Michael Collins (Apollo 11), Alan Sheppard (Apollo 14) and Tom Stafford in the Apollo-Soyuz mission in 1975. Omega introduced new pushers that are screwed into the caseband with taller caps. ‘Spaced T’ dials and single bevel casebacks are also features of this reference. The estimate of all 145.012 models produced between 1967-1969 is approximately 28,000 units. The original dial of this watch has a rare painted, rather than applied, Omega logo, which is most unusual for 1968, and apparently a ‘prototype’ for subsequent references (see following Exhibit 20).
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.012-68
Condition: Presented in excellent, used condition with an attractive warm patina to the original dial and handset, with matching and pleasing tritium lume colouration to the hour indices and hands. The dot over 90, diagonal 70, bezel insert is also in very fine condition, while the later ref. 1175 bracelet is tight, but shows signs of daily wear. Overall, a good very attractivelooking example of this classic reference.
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.012-68
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Exhibit no. 20 Collection no. 117
OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Ref. ST 145.022-69 ‘Pre-Moon – Tropical’ A stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with ‘Tropical’ dial, and bracelet, made in 1969, and delivered to the NAAFI Dial: Matte black, now fading to ‘Tropical’ brown, stepped, signed with painted Ω, and OMEGA, Speedmaster, PROFESSIONAL with tall tritium hour markers, further marked T SWISS MADE T at the bottom Movement: Calibre 861 manual winding, copper coloured, steel brake, 17 jewels, 21,600 VpH, with shuttle cam chronograph function Movement number: 28422413 (dating to 1969) Handset: Flat baton white hours and minutes with tritium luminescence, flat counterweight chronograph seconds with long tritium pointer, and white baton sub-registers Case: Stainless steel with asymmetrical lugs, with Omegasigned crown, wide and tall pushers Caseback, outer signed SPEEDMASTER, above seahorse logo, and Ω below, inside stamped HF (Huguenin Frères) and 145022-69 ST. Omegasigned, acrylic polymer Hesalite glass Bezel: Steel support with black aluminium insert, silver script Bracelet: Type 6. Stainless steel No.1175, with 640 end links, and folding clasp signed Ω OMEGA Dimensions: 42mm diameter (excluding crown), bracelet circumference approximately 200mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Year of production: 1969 Accessories: Original Omega-signed box and papers dated 10 December 1972. With Omega Extract from the Archives confirming production of the watch on December 6, 1968 and its subsequent delivery to the British Navy, Army and Air Force Institutes (NAAFI)
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.022-69
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.022-69
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Other vital statistics: Dial: Type C1, medium S-step. OMEGA: medium width E; G with medium length horizontal stroke. Speedmaster: S of average length with open top curve; S and p not joined; m with pointed first arch; r with fairly low and short loop Handset: Type C2 Baton-flat Case: Type B1 Crown: Type B2, 32 teeth, wide Ω Pushers: Type 4, diameter 5 mm, length 3.5 mm Caseback: Type A4, Speedmaster in centre, single Bevel Glass: Category A Hesalite, Type A4, wide Ω signed Bezel: Type B1, dot Diagonal 70. Tachymètre graduated to 500; accented È in TACHYMÈTRE; C stretched and closed, E with short middle stroke, 7 with serif
Speedmaster ref. ST 145.022-69 ‘Pre-Moon - Tropical’ The 145.022-69 is a significant Speedmaster reference for two reasons. First, the famed 321 calibre used in previous models was replaced by the calibre 861 which featured a cam switched chronograph replacing the column wheel operation in the 321. Secondly the applied steel Omega logo used since 1957 was replaced with a painted ‘Ω’ symbol on the dial. Interestingly, the 145.022-69 was conceived before the moon landing in July 1969 but was sold a few months after the event in December of that year and because the caseback makes no reference to the moon landing as subsequent models do, the 145.022-69 is known to collectors as the pre-moon model.
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.022-69
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.022-69
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Condition: Presented in exceedingly good, pre-owned condition with a highly desirable faded-to-dark chocolate brown ‘tropical’ dial, with matching light-colour patination to the tritium lume on the hour indices and hands. The original dot over 90, diagonal 70, bezel insert is chipped, as expected for its age, while the later ref. 1175 bracelet is in very good condition with signs of daily wear. This very attractive, pre-moon reference is one of the finest examples we have seen.
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OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.022-69
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 145.022-69
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ROLEX
Exhibit no. 21 Collection no. 115
ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Submariner Ref. 5508 ‘Small Crown Bond’ A stainless steel automatic diver’s wristwatch made c.1958 Dial: Gloss, black lacquer with gilt ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL, closed minute track, ‘Two Line’ silver rating, meters first, SUBMARINER, further signed SWISS at bottom. Handset: Gilt Mercedes-style luminous hands, gilt centreseconds counter-balanced with luminous dot Movement: Calibre 1530 automatic (self-winding) movement, 17 jewels, 18000 VpH, hour, minute, and centre seconds Serial number: 361703 (dating to 1958) Case: Stainless steel Oyster (NGC), inscribed serial number and 5508, Rolex Twinlock crown, with caseback stamped inside MONTRES ROLEX SA, 5508 and II.1958 Bezel: Stainless steel, serrated with black anodized, now faded to grey, ‘ghost’ bezel insert with lume pearl at zero Bracelet: Owner-supplied brown leather with steel pin buckle (not shown) Dimensions: 38mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 180mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Year of production: The serial number dates the watch to c.1958 Accessories: Rolex service pouch, and also supplied with a new Bond-style NATO strap
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ROLEX SUBMARINER 5508
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5508
129
Submariner Reference 5508 ‘Small Crown Bond’ Signifying Rolex’s association with adventure and record-setting achievement, the Rolex Submariner was introduced in 1953 and remains one of the most important sports wristwatches in history. In the decades since its introduction, the Submariner, in all its forms is highly sought-after and near impossible to buy at Rolex retailers worldwide. Fitted with a two-piece Oyster case, an exceptionally robust self-winding movement and rotating dive-timing bezel, the unmistakeable look of the Submariner is world-renowned and a design icon. The reference 5508 was first introduced in late 1957, making the current 1958 watch a highly desirable, early model. Affectionately known as the James Bond, its distinguishing features include a black gloss, gilthighlighted dial, a stunning, patinated ‘ghost’ bezel insert, and the lack of crown guards on the case. The reference 5508 is the last of the Submariners to carry the 100m/330ft depth rating and also the last without protective shoulders on either side of the winding crown, sometimes referred to as nocrown-guard (NCG) cases. The earliest featured an oversized, 8mm ‘Brevet’ winding crown (6200, 6538 and finally the 5510), and these watches have the nickname big crown (BC). However, interspersed with them were the elegant, small crown (SC) watches that were relatively slim with a delicate 6mm crown (6204, 6205 and 6536). The series was completed by the iconic reference 5508, shown here, which features a glossy, gilt ‘spider’ dial, no crown guards on the case and a stunning ‘ghost’ bezel insert.
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ROLEX SUBMARINER 5508
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5508
131
Condition: Presented in very pleasing original pre-owned condition. Consistent for a tool watch of this era, there is wear to the case and bezel insert. There are signs of historic polishing, but the bevelled edges remain intact, while the crown is likely to be a service replacement. The original gloss black dial with gilt lettering is in good condition, showing warm patination to the luminescent indices and hairline ‘spiderweb’ cracks. The original gilt Mercedes-style handset has matching lume with pleasing patination and ageconsistent discolouration, while the lovely faded-to-grey ghost bezel insert is currently seized. All in all, a very honest and attractive example of a highly-coveted reference.
132
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5508
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5508
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Exhibit no. 22 Collection no. 116
ROLEX Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master Ref. 6542 ‘Pussy Galore’ A stainless steel automatic pilot’s wristwatch and original Bakelite bezel, with bracelet, made c.1958 Dial: Gloss, black lacquer with gilt lettering and closed minute track, signed ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL above GMT-MASTER, OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED, CHRONOMETER below, with radium luminescent hour markers, further signed SWISS with black on white date subsidiary Handset: Steel Mercedes-style luminous hands, steel centre-seconds counter-balanced with luminous dot, red central 24-hour hand with luminous steel arrow Movement: Calibre 1065 (based on calibre 1030), automatic (self-winding) movement, 17 jewels, 19800 VpH, with hour, minute, 24-hour indication and date function Serial number: 381945 (dating to 1958) Case: Stainless steel Oyster, inscribed 6542 and serial number, Rolex Twinlock crown, caseback stamped inside MONTRES ROLEX SA, 6542 and II, 1958 Bezel: Red and blue (Pepsi) Bakelite and radium bezel insert Bracelet: Stainless steel ref. 6635 with 57 endlinks, dated 3.69 stamped PATENTED & REGISTERED SWISS MADE, ROLEX, STEELINOX Dimensions: 38mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 180mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Year of production: The serial number dates the watch to 1958 Accessories: Supplied with green Rolex ‘coffin’-style box with slash card, and also a new Bond-style NATO strap
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ROLEX GMT-MASTER 6542
ROLEX GMT-MASTER 6542
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136
ROLEX GMT-MASTER 6542
GMT-Master ref. 6542 ‘Pussy Galore’ In the early jet-age of the 1950s, the Pan American airline (Pan Am) approached Rolex and asked them to develop a watch for their pilots. This partnership led to the production of the Rolex GMT-Master, first introduced commercially in 1954 as reference 6542. Fitted with a fourhanded chronometer-rated calibre with date function, the watch featured a 24-hour hand that completed one full rotation every day and the bi-directional bezel could be rotated to allow the wearer to monitor the home time once they have adjusted their watch to local time, or vice versa. The iconic red and blue bezel insert known to collectors as the ‘Pepsi’ due to is colour scheme being reminiscent of the well-known soft drinks brand, the blue half represents night hours (18:00-06:00) and the red half, day hours (06:00-18:00) showing clearly and simultaneously, the time in any two time zones on the earth’s surface. As one of their first sports watches, these early GMT-Masters were housed in classic 38mm steel Oyster cases and construction-wise, they set the standard for the future. The 6542 case was essentially of three-piece design (which continues today) and displayed two innovations which we now take for granted; the first was the date magnifying bubble (Cyclops), which had just been utilised on the Datejust line (1953), while the second was the new dual time zone complication. The reference 6542 is now affectionately known to collectors as the ‘Pussy Galore’ (worn by Honor Blackman, the aviatrix villain in Goldfinger, playing opposite Sean Connery’s James Bond, in 1964). Made only from 1954-59, it was replaced by the more commonly encountered GMT-Master Reference 1675 with crown guards, that would run until c.1980. The current watch has its original luminous Bakelite bezel, which were infamously recalled in the US because of a Naval officer’s lawsuit in 1961, claiming the radium caused him and his family cancer. Together with this, the tendency of the original Bakelite bezels to crack resulted in their replacement with non-luminous, anodized metal bezels throughout the US, and some markets beyond. That this 6542 retains its original Bakelite insert makes it a very special and rare timepiece.
ROLEX GMT-MASTER 6542
137
Condition: Presented in very honest original condition. The gloss black dial with gilt lettering is original with a lovely patina, the radium indices have taken on a warm pumpkin colour, and the original Mercedes-style handset have pleasing, ageconsistent, discolouration. The case has had some polishing in the past, but retains strength and the bevelled edges are intact. The cyclops acrylic crystal is certainly old but may be a service replacement. Importantly, the extremely rare and gorgeous Bakelite bezel insert remains intact, showing consistent and comforting, age-related discolouring and mild distortion. Made in the year that Pan-Am introduced their first transatlantic jet service, from New York to Paris in 1958, this highly-desirable GMT-Master perfectly captures the aura of the early commercial jet-age. Sometimes, pictures aren’t enough, and this is one of those instances where we can say, without hesitation: ‘this watch is even better in-the-flesh’.
138
ROLEX GMT-MASTER 6542
ROLEX GMT-MASTER 6542
139
Exhibit 23
Collection no. 132
ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Submariner Ref. 6538 ‘Big Crown Bond – Tropical’ A stainless steel automatic diver’s wristwatch with ‘tropical dial, made c.1959 Dial: Matte black, now faded to ‘tropical’ brown, closed minute track, signed ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL in gilt lettering, ‘Two Line’ silver depth rating, meters first, SUBMARINER, with radium luminescent hour markers, further signed SWISS at the bottom Handset: Gilt Mercedes-style luminous hands, gilt centre seconds counter-balanced with luminous dot Movement: Calibre 1030 automatic (self-winding) movement, no. N764800, 25 jewels, 18000 VpH, with hour, minute, and centre seconds Serial number: 426169 (dating to 1959) Case: Stainless steel Oyster (NGC), inscribed serial number and 6538, with Twinlock 8mm ‘big crown’ with ‘Brevet’ (patent), caseback stamped inside MONTRES ROLEX SA, 6538 and IV, 1958 Bezel: Stainless steel, serrated with thin-font black anodised aluminium insert, lume pearl missing at zero Bracelet: Owner-supplied black leather strap with steel pin buckle (not shown) Dimensions: 38mm diameter, strap circumference approximately 180mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Year of production: The serial number dates the assembly of the watch to c.1959 Accessories: Accompanied by a green Rolex ‘coffin’-style box with slash card
140
ROLEX SUBMARINER 6538
ROLEX SUBMARINER 6538
141
Submariner ref. 6538 ‘Big Crown Bond - Tropical’ Launched in 1953, the Submariner was the first divers’ wristwatch waterproof to a depth of 100 meters. It has evolved technically and aesthetically over the years as an underwater survival tool, the watch’s design has been entirely dictated by the needs of divers: functional, professionally robust ,and an easy-to-wear elegant case design. Although primarily a civilian tool watch arising from the SCUBA diving activities popularised by Jaques-Yves Cousteau in the 1950s, the Submariner also found favour with select military units. On the 30th September 1953, Rolex pulled off one of its most memorable marketing stunts. When Swiss physicist, inventor and explorer, Auguste Piccard took his Bathyscaphe deep-diving submarine down to a mind-bending depth of 3150 meters, a speciallydesigned Rolex, the experimental, ‘Deep Sea Special’ previously tested successfully at 1080 meters, went with it. Rolex took advantage by advertising the watch’s successful descent in National Geographic in 1954, stating the that the watch was in perfect condition, keeping perfect time. Thus the stage was set for the debut of arguably the most famous watch in the world, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner. This submariner ref. 6538 is one of the best known vintage models, with its ‘big crown’, it is affectionately known as the James Bond reference (Sean Connery wore a 6538 in 1962, for the first Bond film, Dr. No). Its distinguishing features include a gilt dial with closed railtrack, no crown guards on the case, 200m depth rating and a hash-to-15 timing bezel with inverted red triangle. The Submariner remains one of the most important sports wristwatches in history and is most associated with adventure and record-setting achievement. In the decades since, the Submariner in all its forms is highly sought-after and near impossible to buy at Rolex retailers worldwide.
142
ROLEX SUBMARINER 6538
ROLEX SUBMARINER 6538
143
Condition: Presented in well-used condition, the watch retains its original dial, case, handset, crown and bezel. The deepsided case is scratched, but the lugs are thick and the bevelled edges are visible, while the caseback has deep markings consistent with its removal over many years. The original matte black dial with gilt and silver lettering has aged to a dark chocolate ‘tropical’ brown, while the radium markers have antiqued to a dark hue, (10 o’clock missing), while the gilded handset has matching lume, fractured on the minute hand, and the white-painted seconds hand has the smaller lollipop disc. The bezel insert is very worn, the pearl is missing, but there is a fraction of the inverted red triangle still visible. Importantly, the 8mm big crown has ‘Brevet’ below the logo. Although well-used, this is the true ‘Bond’ reference with a rare ‘Tropical’ dial and is an appealingly honest and original example of this highly sought-after and coveted reference.
144
ROLEX SUBMARINER 6538
ROLEX SUBMARINER 6538
145
Exhibit no. 24 Collection no. 114
ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Submariner Ref. 5513 ‘Gilt, Underline, Swiss’ A stainless steel automatic diver’s wristwatch with bracelet, made c.1963. Dial: Gloss black lacquer, tritium luminescent hour markers with gilt lettering and open railtrack, signed ROLEX, OYSTER PERPETUAL above, 200m=660ft, SUBMARINER with silver ‘underline’ below, and SWISS at 6 o’clock Handset: Gilt Mercedes-style luminous hands, gilt centreseconds counter-balanced with luminous dot Movement: Calibre 1530 automatic (self-winding), 25 jewels, 18000 VpH, with hour, minute and seconds Serial number: 1000073 (dating to 1963) Case: Stainless Steel with pointed crown guards (PCG), inscribed serial number and 5513, and Rolex Twinlock crown, caseback stamped inside MONTRES ROLEX SA, 5513 and III.63 Bezel: Stainless steel, serrated with black anodized ‘square font’ insert and lume pearl at zero Bracelet: Stainless steel ROLEX OYSTER, expanding, riveted with folding clasp, stamped 6636 and dated 2.67, endlinks stamped 80 Dimensions: 40mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 200mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Year of production: The serial number dates the watch to c.1963 Accessories: Accompanied by a green Rolex ‘coffin’-style box.
146
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5513
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5513
147
Submariner ref. 5513 ‘Gilt, Underline, Swiss’ Signifying Rolex’s association with adventure and recordsetting achievement, the Rolex Submariner was introduced in 1953 and remains one of the most important sports wristwatches in history. In the decades since its introduction, the Submariner, in all its forms is highly sought-after and near impossible to buy at Rolex retailers worldwide. Fitted with a two-piece Oyster case with pointed crown guards, an exceptionally robust self-winding movement and rotating dive-timing bezel, the unmistakeable look of the Submariner is world-renowned and a design icon. The reference 5513 was first released in 1962 making the current watch a highlydesirable, early example with an eye-catching, gloss black, meters first, gilt dial with silver ‘underline’ motif below the ‘Submariner’ script. For Rolex, the discreet underline was a dial mark used to signify lesser radioactivity in the tritium luminous mixture on the hour plots, specifically as a safety handling measure for the watchmakers. For years, radium had been used for applications where luminescence was deemed essential, particularly military instruments, clocks and watches. Dextrous workers in dial manufacturing facilities were mostly girls, who had been encouraged to ‘point’ their paint brushes using their lips, unsurprisingly they developed tumors, and a number died as a direct result of their exposure to radium. In the US particularly, this resulted in lawsuits being filed against their employers and by the early 1960s, manufacturers worldwide had been forced to recognise that radium was unsafe. The 1963 Submariner dial with small underline was the last of the SWISS only dials, while these earlier reference 5513s show their depth rating with meters first, followed by feet, in circa 1969, the display changed to the feet showing first, apparently due to the expanding US market.
148
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5513
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5513
149
Condition: Presented in good original condition, with evidence of wear to the case and bracelet. The case may have been polished in the past, but the bevelled edges remain intact and the lugs are thick, while the crown is likely to be a service replacement. The original gloss black dial with gilt lettering is in very good condition showing an even patination to the tritium lume plots, while the original gilt Mercedes-style handset have matching lume and pleasing, age-consistent, discolouration. The bezel insert is in very good condition with comforting, minor discolouration by the lume pearl at zero. The watch is fitted with a later Rolex-signed riveted bracelet ref. 6636, dated stamped for 1967. Overall, a good very attractive example in excellent order.
150
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5513
ROLEX SUBMARINER 5513
151
Exhibit no. 25 Collection no.124
ROLEX Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6239 ‘Small Daytona’ A stainless steel manual winding chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, made c.1966 Dial: Matte black with silver, circular-grained, sub-registers (reverse panda), signed ROLEX COSMOGRAPH with small Font DAYTONA, and T SWISS T at 6 o’clock Handset: Steel baton hour and ‘long’ minutes with steel counter-balanced arrow centre seconds, and black batton sub-registers Movement: Manual winding calibre Valjoux 72B, 17 jewels, 18000 VpH, with column wheel chronograph Serial number: 1463827 (dating to 1966) Case: Stainless steel, inscribed 6239 and serial number, with Rolex Twinlock crown and pump pushers, caseback stamped inside MONTRES ROLEX SA and 6239 Bezel: Stainless steel with 2nd generation 60/300 calibration Bracelet : Stainless steel ROLEX OYSTER, riveted with folding clasp, stamped 7205 with ref. 57 end links Dimensions: 38mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 180mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Year of production: The serial number dates the watch to c.1966 Accessories: Accompanied by a Rolex ‘coffin’ box stamped 10 001, which is consistent with this reference and date
152
ROLEX COSMOGRAPH ‘DAYTONA’
ROLEX COSMOGRAPH ‘DAYTONA’
153
154
ROLEX COSMOGRAPH ‘DAYTONA’
Cosmograph Daytona ref. 6239 ‘Small Daytona’ Introduced in 1963 as the reference 6239, the Rolex Cosmograph is one of the most important sports wristwatches in history, known famously as the ‘Daytona’, it has reached legendary status and is widely considered to be one of the most desirable watches in existence, regardless of being vintage or contemporary (being near impossible to buy at Rolex retailers worldwide). The ‘Cosmograph’ was named following the fervour surrounding space travel, and designed as a chronograph with a tachymètre on the bezel. Originally marketed toward drivers, in their early advertisements, the model was referred to as the ‘Le Mans’, but Rolex’s association with the 24-hour motor race held at Daytona Beach, Florida, changed all that. The famous ‘Daytona’ signature appeared initially below the word Cosmograph (as on the current example) but by 1967, it had migrated to its present-day position, above the subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock. This watch displays a ‘T Swiss T’ inscription below, rather than ‘Swiss’; due to changes in regulations, these dials used luminous tritium, instead of radium. As well as the small font ‘Daytona’ and correct 2nd generation 60/300 calibration steel bezel (later ones indicate 50/200 units), the present reference 6239 bears a 1.4 million serial number, indicating an early example, while its defining characteristics are the manual-winding movement, pump pushers, and steel bezel. In 1966, Rolex offered this model with either a white/silver dial and black registers, or black dials with silver-white registers (as seen here), in what has since become known as 'Reverse Panda’.
ROLEX COSMOGRAPH ‘DAYTONA’
155
Condition: Presented in good pre-owned original condition, with evidence of wear to the case and bracelet. The case may have been polished in the past, but the bevelled edges remain intact and the lugs are thick, while the crown and ‘pump’ chronograph pushers are period-correct, but likely to be service replacements. The original matte black dial with small font ‘Daytona’ script is in excellent condition with the tritium lume plots fully intact. The riveted Rolex bracelet is tight, dated for 1965, and in excellent condition. All in all, this watch is a very good and attractive example of the first Cosmograph reference to actually bear the ‘Daytona’ name.
156
ROLEX COSMOGRAPH ‘DAYTONA’
ROLEX COSMOGRAPH ‘DAYTONA’
157
Exhibit 26
Collection no. 135
ROLEX Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master Ref. 1675 ‘Long E – Fuchsia’ A stainless steel automatic pilot’s wristwatch with bracelet, made c.1967 Dial: Matte black with white lettering and open minute track (Mark 1, ‘String’ Coronet, Long E), signed ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL above GMT-MASTER, OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED, CHRONOMETER below, with tritium luminescent hour markers, further signed SWISS T<25 with contrasting date subsidiary Handset: STEEL Mercedes-style luminous hands, steel centreseconds with luminous dot, red central 24-hour hand with luminous arrow Movement: Calibre 1570 automatic (self-winding) chronometer movement, 26 jewels, 19,800 VpH, with hour, minute, centre seconds, 24-hour indication, and date function Serial number: 1682362 (dating to 1967) Case: Stainless steel Oyster, inscribed 1675 and serial number, with Rolex Twinlock crown, caseback stamped inside MONTRES ROLEX SA, 1675 and II.67 Bezel: Blue and red (now light blue and Fuschia) anodised aluminium bezel insert Bracelet: stainless steel ROLEX OYSTER service ref. 78360, with 580 end links, and stamped S AB3 Dimensions: 40mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 200mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Year of production: c.1967 Accessories: Supplied with a white Rolex guarantee booklet dated 4.1.69, a Rolex GMT-Master pamphlet dated 1970, and a period and reference correct, green Rolex box ref. 68.00.3 with slash card.
158
ROLEX GMT-MASTER 1675
ROLEX GMT-MASTER 1675
159
160
ROLEX GMT-MASTER 1675
GMT-Master ref. 1675 ‘Long E - Fuchsia’ TWA made the first non-stop transcontinental flight in 1953, heralding the start of the commercial jet-age. At this time, the Pan American airline (Pan Am) approached Rolex and asked them to develop a watch for their pilots, to cater for the time-zone changes they encountered. This partnership led to the development of the Rolex GMT-Master, that was introduced in 1954 as the ref. 6542. Meanwhile, the first long-haul commercial jet flights did not commence until the introduction of Pan Am’s New York to Paris service in 1958. The Rolex GMT-Master was fitted with a four-handed chronometer-rated calibre with date function, featuring a 24-hour hand that completed one full rotation every 24 hours, and a bi-directional bezel that could be rotated to allow the wearer to monitor their home time once they had adjusted their watch to local time, or vice versa. The iconic red and blue bezel insert known to collectors as the ‘Pepsi’ due to is colour scheme being reminiscent of the well-known soft drinks brand, the red half represents day hours (06:00 to 18:00) and the blue half, night hours (18:00 to 06:00) showing clearly and simultaneously, the time in any two zones on the earth’s surface. The initial ref. 6542 remained in production from 1954 until 1959 (see the 1958 ref. 6542, exhibit 22, p.134). This was superseded by the ref. 1675, who’s most striking additional feature of the was the introduction of crown guards, while the case itself was enlarged by 2mm to 40mm. By this time Rolex had also moved away from fragile Bakelite inserts and were using several suppliers for the red and blue aluminium bezel inserts of this reference. Each used their own formulas in the electro-chemical anodisation process to give the red and blue surface colouring on the metal. Some formulas age or degrade differently to others, and these various colour hues have been given nicknames by collectors. One such is the ‘metamorphosis’ of the red to the particularly pleasing ‘Fuchsia’ colour, as found on this 1967 GMT.
ROLEX GMT-MASTER 1675
161
Condition: Presented in excellent Rolex-serviced condition, this eyecatching GMT-MASTER shows all the hallmarks you expect of this classic reference. The watch has returned to Rolex Mayfair for servicing twice, in 1981 and 1990 (scratch marked), and has been handled accordingly; the Mark 1 ‘Long E’ dial is in superb condition with ‘puffy’ luminescent tritium indices, now aged to a beautiful pumpkin cream colour, while the case lugs maintain strength and the bevelled edges are clearly visible, the hands are service replacements, as is the bracelet, identified by the ‘S’ stamp on the clasp, both typical Rolex service procedures for this vintage (a worn, earlier ‘Flushfit’, riveted bracelet also comes with the watch). The aluminium red and blue ‘Pepsi’ bezel insert has faded over the years, developing a light blue hue over stunning fuchsia pink. The watch comes with the correct box reference, a period GMT-MASTER brochure, and Rolex papers dated 1969.
162
ROLEX GMT-MASTER 1675
ROLEX GMT-MASTER 1675
163
Exhibit no. 27 Collection no. 125
ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date Ref. 168000 ‘Transitional’ A stainless steel automatic chronometer diver’s wristwatch with bracelet, sold in April 1988 Dial: Gloss black lacquer with white lettering and open minute track, applied tritium markers set in white gold surrounds, signed ROLEX, OYSTER PERPETUAL DATE, SUBMARINER, 1000FT=300M, SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED and SWISS-T<25 at 6 o’clock, with contrasting date Handset: Steel Mercedes-style luminous hands, centreseconds counter-balanced with luminous dot Movement: Calibre 3035, 27 jewels, 28,800 VpH, with hour, minute, seconds and quick set date Serial number: R247532 (dating to 1987) Case: Stainless steel Oyster, inscribed serial number and 168000, with Rolex Triplock crown, caseback stamped inside MONTRES ROLEX SA and 16800 Bezel: Stainless steel, serrated with black anodized ‘square font’ insert, now faded to grey, ‘ghost’ bezel, with lume pearl at zero Bracelet: Stainless steel ROLEX OYSTER Fliplock, stamped 93150 with 593 end links Dimensions: 40mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 200mm Signed: Case, crown, dial and movement Accessories: Supplied as a complete set. Rolex green wallet, booklets, red seal, swing tag, anchor, inner & outer boxes (inner box is ref. 67.00.03) and original guarantee papers dated 19 April 1988, from Mappin & Webb, London.
164
ROLEX SUBMARINER 168000
ROLEX SUBMARINER 168000
165
Submariner ref. 168000 ‘Transitional’ The Rolex Submariner was introduced in 1953 and remains one of the most important sports wristwatches in history. In the decades since, the Submariner, in all its forms remains highly sought-after and near impossible to buy at Rolex retailers worldwide. This scarce Submariner variant, ref. 168000, was in production for only seven to nine months in 1987/1988, and it is considered a ‘transitional’ model (soon being replaced by the ref. 16610). The main improvement was in the quality of the stainless steel, which was improved from grade 316L to grade 904L, that offered better corrosion resistance and a superior finish when polished. It was also fitted with a sapphire glass (scratch resistant crystal was new at this time), an improved two-piece Oyster case, water-resistant to 1,000ft, an exceptionally robust self-winding movement, and archetypal rotating dive-timing bezel. The unmistakeable look of the ever-popular Submariner is world-renowned, and it is safe to speculate that the limitedproduction scarcity of the ‘transitional’ ref. 168000 will cause their values to continue to rise in the coming years.
166
ROLEX SUBMARINER 168000
ROLEX SUBMARINER 168000
167
Condition: Presented in very good pre-owned condition, with some wear to the case and bracelet. The case may have had some polishing in the past, but the bevelled edges remain intact, and it is possible the Rolex crown and sapphire crystal are service replacements. The caseback is stamped 16800, which is consistent and correct for this reference. The original T<25 gloss black dial is in very good condition with a light patina to the lume plots, the Mercedes-style handset is original with pleasing signs of mild deterioration, the aged tritium lume is colour-consistent with the indices on the dial. The bezel insert is in good order, retaining its luminous pearl indicator at zero, and has faded to an attractive ghost-like ‘blue’ shade. The limited, 7 to 9 month, production run of this ‘transitional’ reference has made them scarce, not only is this example is in very good condition, but it has its full set of box and papers.
168
ROLEX SUBMARINER 168000
ROLEX SUBMARINER 168000
169
PATEK PHILIPPE
Exhibit no. 28 Collection no.123
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 96 Calatrava A fine gentleman’s wristwatch in 18ct yellow gold with rare black lacquer dial, delivered in 1942 Dial: Gloss black lacquer with gold faceted indexes, gilt lettering and minute track, signed Patek Philippe & Co. Genéve, further inscribed Beyer Zürich above subsidiary seconds. Handset: Faceted and gilded dauphine-shaped with counterweighted sub-seconds Movement: Calibre 12-120, manual winding, 18 jewels with subsidiary seconds Movement number: 922.095 Case: 18ct yellow gold (hallmarked), turban crown and snap-on caseback, engraved J.B.C. Case number: 297.640 Bracelet: Black crocodile leather strap, signed Patek Philippe, gilt pin buckle Dimensions: 31mm diameter, strap circumference approximately 170mm Signed: Dial, case, movement and strap Year of Production: 1942 Accessories: Accompanied by a leather Patek Phillipe service wallet, with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives, confirming the date of sale as July 13th, 1942
172
PATEK PHILIPPE CALATRAVA
PATEK PHILIPPE CALATRAVA
173
Ref. 96 Calatrava Taking its name and image from a medieval cross, Patek Phillipe registered the symbol as a trademark in 1887 and the name Calatrava, remains one of Patek’s most famous model lines. Introduced in 1932, it was among the first creations under the Stern family, who began to focus the direction of the company towards wristwatches. While the Cartier Tank shaped the way we view rectangular timepieces, the same could be said about round wristwatches and the reference 96, although not the first, it set the aesthetic standard for proportions and dimension. Remaining a mainstay in the Patek Philippe catalogue for over four decades and with its Bauhausinspired minimalistic looks, it is rightly considered by many to be the ultimate in understated elegance. Thisd reference 96 is an exceptional non-conformist from the standard models due to its original black dial, which was exceedingly uncommon for the period. The dial features beautifully applied faceted-baton hour markers and a railroad gilt minute track around the periphery, with a matching track and baton markers within the subsidiary dial. In addition to the early full signature, Patek Philippe & Co. Genève, it is also signed for the retailer, Beyer Zürich. These small details can easily be overlooked due to the emphatically darker dial, yet it is these understated subtleties that make this model truly special. Some very fine modern versions (Refs. 565, 570, 2526) have come and gone, but the original reference 96 is the iconic Calatrava and rightly continues to be much sought-after and collectable by watch enthusiasts worldwide.
Why our collectors bought this watch: “I am aware that this seems an anomaly in a tool watch collection, but it is a Patek, and my wife absolutely loved the refined elegance and classic aesthetics of this very wearable watch. I subsequently discovered that there are only a handful of examples known with a black dial.”
174
PATEK PHILIPPE CALATRAVA
PATEK PHILIPPE CALATRAVA
175
Condition: Presented in good original pre-owned condition that retains strength to the hallmarked gold case, with later Patek turban crown.. The patinated gilt dauphine-shaped handset is original, while the key feature of this watch is the exceedingly rare, unrestored, black lacquer dial with gilt lettering, that has the bonus of being additionally signed for the famous watch and jewellery retailer, Beyer of Zürich. Apparently, less than ten black dial 96 Calatravas are recorded, adding to the collectability of this very fine and elegant timepiece.
176
PATEK PHILIPPE CALATRAVA
PATEK PHILIPPE CALATRAVA
177
References Exhibit 1 (coll. no. 126) Lemania HS9 Web: https://kibblewatches.co.uk/products/1945-lemania-hs9-royal-navyfleet-air-arm-monopusher https://thewatchbloke.co.uk/2017/01/14/lemania-hs9-chronograph-calibre15cht/ Exhibit 2 (coll. no. 107) Omega Seamaster CK2913-1 ‘Trilogy’ Print: From Seamaster to Seamaster - The First 70 Years, Omega SA (2018) Web: https://www.veblenist.com/magazine/omega- seamaster-ck2913 Exhibit 3 (coll. no. 120) Omega Railmaster CK 2914-1 ‘Trilogy’ Print: Richon, M (2007) Omega - A Journey Through Time, Omega SA Web: Davidoff, R, Davidoff, S. http://www.db1983.com/our-archive/ omega-railmaster-ck-2914-1-1957 Exhibit 4 (coll. no. 101) Omega Speedmaster CK 2915-1 ‘Trilogy’ Print: Rossier, G. Marquié A. (2017) Moonwatch Only - 60 Years of Speedmaster, watchprint.com Web: Broer, R.J. https://www.fratellowatches.com/omega-speedmasterreferences/ Roberts, W. https://speedmaster101.com/2915-2/ Exhibit 5 (coll. no. 128) Omega Seamaster CK 2493-2 Print: From Seamaster to Seamaster - The First 70 Years, Omega SA (2018) Richon, M (2007) Omega - A Journey Through Time, Omega SA Web: Omega SA. https://www.omegawatches.com/en-gb/watch-omegaseamaster-omega- ck-2493 Exhibit 6 (coll. no. 130) Omega Ranchero CK 2990-1 Print: Richon, M (2007) Omega - A Journey Through Time, Omega SA Web: https://www.timeline.watch/watch/1958-omega-ranchedo-refck2990/ https://www.analogshift.com/products/omega-ranchero-as02187 https://www.thewatchforum.co.uk/index.php?/topic/148823-omegasfourth-man-the-handsome-ranchero/ Exhibit 7 (coll. no. 102) Omega Speedmaster CK2915-3 Print: Rossier, G. Marquié A. (2017) Moonwatch Only - 60 Years of Speedmaster, watchprint.com Web: Broer, R.J. https://www.fratellowatches.com/omega-speedmasterreferences/ Roberts, W. https://speedmaster101.com/2915-2/
Exhibit 8 (coll. no. 106) Omega Seamaster CK 2913-3 FAP Print: From Seamaster to Seamaster - The First 70 Years, Omega SA (2018) Web: Veblenist Collectors Guide: https://www.veblenist.com/magazine/ omega- seamaster-ck2913 Exhibit 9 (coll. no. 113) Omega Seamaster CK 2913-8 Print: From Seamaster to Seamaster - The First 70 Years, Omega SA (2018) Web: Veblenist Collectors Guide: https://www.veblenist.com/magazine/ omega- seamaster-ck2913 Exhibit 10 (coll. no. 103) Omega Speedmaster CK 2998-6 Print: Rossier, G. Marquié A. (2017) Moonwatch Only - 60 Years of Speedmaster, watchprint.com Web: Broer, R.J. https://www.fratellowatches.com/omega-speedmasterreferences/ Roberts, W. https://speedmaster101.com/2998-3/ Exhibit 11 (coll. no. 122) Omega Speedmaster CK2998-61 Print: Rossier, G. Marquié A. (2017) Moonwatch Only - 60 Years of Speedmaster, watchprint.com Web: Broer, R.J. https://www.fratellowatches.com/omega-speedmasterreferences/ Roberts, W. https://speedmaster101.com/2998-3/ Exhibit 12 (coll. no. 136) OMEGA Speedmaster 105.003-63‘Ed White’: Print: Rossier, G. Marquié A. (2017) Moonwatch Only - 60 Years of Speedmaster, watchprint.com Exhibit 13 (coll. no. 110) Omega Seamaster 300 Ref.165.064 Print: From Seamaster to Seamaster - The First 70 Years, Omega SA (2018) Web: https://www.omegaseamaster300.com Exhibit 14 (coll. no. 129) Omega Seamaster Ref. 165.024 Print: From Seamaster to Seamaster - The First 70 Years, Omega SA (2018) Web: https://www.omegaseamaster300.com Exhibit 15 (coll. no. 131) Omega Speedmaster Ref, 105.003-65 Rossier, G. Marquié A. (2017) Moonwatch Only - 60 Years of Speedmaster, watchprint.com Web: Broer, R.J. https://www.fratellowatches.com/omega-speedmasterreferences/ Roberts, W. https://speedmaster101.com/105-003/ Exhibit 16 (coll. no. 118) Omega Speedmaster Ref. 145.012-67 Print: Rossier, G. Marquié A. (2017) Moonwatch Only - 60 Years of Speedmaster, watchprint.com Web: Roberts, W. https://speedmaster101.com/145-012/
Exhibit 17 (coll. no. 105) Omega Speedmaster 145.012-67 SP Print: Rossier, G. Marquié A. (2017) Moonwatch Only - 60 Years of Speedmaster, watchprint.com Web: Broer, R.J. https://www.fratellowatches.com/omega-speedmasterreferences/ Roberts, W. https://speedmaster101.com/145-012/ Exhibit 18 (coll. no. 119) Omega Speedmaster 145.012-68 Print: Rossier, G. Marquié A. (2017) Moonwatch Only - 60 Years of Speedmaster, watchprint.com Web: Broer, R.J. https://www.fratellowatches.com/omega-speedmasterreferences/ Roberts, W. https://speedmaster101.com/145-012/ Exhibit 19 (coll. no. 117) Omega Speedmaster 145.022-69 Print: Rossier, G. Marquié A. (2017) Moonwatch Only - 60 Years of Speedmaster, watchprint.com Web: Broer, R.J. https://www.fratellowatches.com/omega-speedmasterreferences/ Roberts, W. https://speedmaster101.com/145-022/ Exhibit 20 (coll. no. 108) Omega Seamaster Ref. ST 165.024 RN Print: From Seamaster to Seamaster - The First 70 Years, Omega SA (2018) Web: https://www.omegaseamaster300.com Exhibit 21 (coll. no. 115) Rolex Submariner Ref.5508 Print: Mondani, F & G, Ravagnani, L (2015) Rolex Submariner, Guido Mondani Editore Web: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submariner-referencepoints Exhibit 22 (coll. no. 116) Rolex GMT-Master Ref.6542 Print: Goldberger, J. (2008), ‘100 Superlative Rolex Watches’, p.192 for a similar ref. 6542 with Bakelite bezel. Mondani, G & G, Ravagnani, L (2016), ‘Rolex GMT-Master’, Guido Mondani Editore Web: Povey, R. (2021), A Brief History Of The Rolex GMT-MASTER https:// therake.com/stories/a-brief-history-of-the-rolex-gmt-master/ Exhibit 23 (coll. no. 132) Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner Ref. 6538 Print: Mondani, F&G, Ravagnani (2015) Collecting Rolex Submariner, Guido Mondani Editore Web: Hodinkee: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submarinerreference-points Mulraney, T (2020) https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submarinerhistory-part-1-the-early-references/ Perezscope, J (2021) https://perezcope.com/2021/11/04/the-realities-ofthe-rolex-deep-sea-special-no-1-at-christies-geneva/
Exhibit 24 (coll. no. 114) Rolex Submariner 5513 Print: Mondani, F & G, Ravagnani, L (2015) Rolex Submariner, Guido Mondani Editore Web: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submariner-referencepoints Exhibit 25 (coll. no. 124) Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6239 Print: Mondani, G & Patrizzi, O, (2012) ‘Rolex Daytona Story’, Guido Mondani Editore Web: Boutros, P. (2012), A Vintage Watch Nerd’s Critical Dissection Of The Rolex Daytona, Past To Present (Part 1/3) https://www.hodinkee.com/ articles/a-vintage-watch-nerds-critical-dissection-of-the-rolex-daytonapast-to-present-part-1-3 Clymer, B. (2013,) The Very First Rolex Daytona, Explained (Or, What is a Double-Swiss Underline Daytona?) https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/thefirst-rolex-daytona-by-benjamin-clymer Kessler, K. (2016), Valjoux 72: A Chronograph In A Million, https:// revolutionwatch.com/valjoux-72-a-chronograph-in-a-million/ Exhibit 26 (coll. no. 125) Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master Ref. 1675 Print: Mondani G & G, Ravagnani, L (2016) Rolex GMT- Master, Guido Mondani Editore Web: https://gmtmaster1675.com/mark-1/ Povey, Ross (2021) A Brief History Of The Rolex GMT-MASTER https://therake.com/stories/a-brief-history-of-the-rolex-gmt-master/ Exhibit 27 (coll. no. 125) Rolex Submariner Ref.168000 Print: Mondani, F & G, Ravagnani, L (2015) Rolex Submariner, Guido Mondani Editore Web: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submariner-referencepoints Exhibit 28 (coll. no. 123) Patek Phillippe ref. 96 Web: Mulraney, T. (2017) History of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Part 1 – The Reference 96, The Blueprint, www.monochrome-watches.com Wind, E. https://www.windvintage.com/patek-philippe-reference-96-withblack-dial Chia, C. https://revolutionwatch.com/the-evolution-of-the-patek-philippecalatrava-movement/
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