9 minute read
Wine Down Weekend in Charlottesville
MAIN IMAGE: Veritas Vineyard & Winery boasts award-winning wines and beautiful mountain views.
TOP LEFT: The Dairy Market, Charlottesville's first food hall, opened in December 2020.
MIDDLE LEFT: Restored outbuildings can be seen from the kitchen garden at Monticello.
BOTTOM LEFT: Guests sample a glass of red wine at Veritas.
WRITTEN BY AMBER KEISTER | PHOTGRAPHED BY JONATHAN FREDIN
RICH IN NATURAL BEAUTY, Charlottesville is nestled in the eastern foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The region’s spectacular scenery would be reason enough to make the drive, three and a half hours north of the Triangle.
But along with gorgeous mountain views, visitors will find world-renowned historic sites, hiking trails, orchards and farms, farm-to-table cuisine, and more than 40 wineries, ready to welcome you for a lazy weekend.
ABOVE: Guests at Veritas Vineyard & Winery enjoy a relaxing afternoon.
RIGHT: Stephen Barnard, winemaker at Keswick Vineyards, says creating a welcoming atmosphere is as important as making a great wine. “It’s the moments that make the wine. It’s not the wine that makes the moments.”
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Wineries
Virginia is one of the country’s top wine-producing states, and the wine industry around Charlottesville has exploded in the last 20 years. Wines from Virginia grapes will often taste different from wines produced elsewhere, but exploring that variety is part of the fun and adventure.
A good place to start is the Monticello Wine Trail, consisting of 40 wineries, all within 25 miles of Charlottesville. Stephen Barnard, president of the marketing partnership, is also the winemaker at Keswick Vineyards.
“I would say we're not in the wine industry; we’re in the hospitality business,” he said. “The winemakers are all committed to promoting the state, promoting the quality and the marketing of the state, yet we still have our own identities. We’re all unique.”
Virginia winemakers take advantage of the grapes that grow best in the region, and Barnard says even familiar varieties might taste a bit different from their California counterparts.
Wine flights, cheese and charcuterie boards, salads, sandwiches and flavorful flatbreads are available at the Veritas Vineyard & Winery tasting room.
Monticello, home of Thomas Jefferson, showcases his inventions, books and possessions, as well as exhibits describing the life of the enslaved and indentured servants who lived there.
“The climate really gives you wines that are a bit more acidic, (rather) than ripe and opulent,” he said. “It's because we don’t have the heat; we don't have the dryness.”
Keswick is known for its Cabernet Sauvignon and its Cabernet Franc, a mediumbodied red wine. Worth trying as well is the vineyard’s Chardonnay, a brighter, lighter interpretation well suited to spring sipping.
The folks at Veritas Vineyard & Winery are all about the experience. Andrew and Patricia Hudson bought the scenic 55-acre property in the late ’90s, and today, their distinctive wines are only part of the package.
“We’ve got a couple of award-winning wines that are single varietals,” said Lindsey Navin, marketing manager at Veritas, describing the winery’s Cabernet Franc 2017 Reserve and the 2017 Petit Verdot. “Those two wines, they’re also very much of Virginia grapes. You don't find those single varietals anywhere.”
About a dozen wines are available in the tasting room, along with cheese and
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Replicas of Native American artifacts hang in the foyer. Thomas Jefferson, who was fond of space-saving innovations, put his bed in the wall between his bedroom and his study.
The kitchen garden at Monticello fed residents and guests.
The Michie Tavern was built in the 1780s and moved near Monticello in 1920 to capitalize on visitors to the estate. It's still a popular spot for classic Southern fare. A costumed reenactor brings the history of Thomas Jefferson alive.
ABOVE: The kitchen at Monticello was staffed by enslaved cooks trained in French cooking techniques.
LEFT: A copy of the Declaration of Independence hangs near the entrance of Jefferson’s library.
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charcuterie boards, salads, sandwiches and flavorful flatbreads. If you’re hungry for something more, The Farmhouse at Veritas restaurant serves brunch and dinner, with wine pairings from the vineyard. Guests can also spend the night at the six-bedroom bed and breakfast or two-bedroom cottage located on the property.
Monticello
No trip to Charlottesville would be complete without a visit to the home of Thomas Jefferson, author of the Declaration of Independence and the third president of the U.S. The house and surroundings are beautiful, and it’s easy to see why Jefferson situated his house high on the mountain.
Monticello is furnished as it was in Jefferson’s retirement, when he lived there for 17 years before his death. Inventions like the dumbwaiter and his polygraph, an early copy machine, are on display, along with his books and many souvenirs of his travels. Evidence of Jefferson’s inquisitive mind can also be seen in the gardens, where he experimented with ornamental and useful plants from around the world.
Since 2015, several exhibits have opened that describe life at Monticello more completely, beginning with the restoration of workshops and 20 dwellings used by enslaved indentured servants, both Black and white. In 2018, The Life of Sally Hemings opened, detailing the life of the enslaved woman who bore the founding father’s children. Thousands of visitors tour Monticello each year to learn about Jefferson’s legacy and his complicated history. Most spend at least three hours exploring the expansive estate.
Not far from Monticello is the Michie Tavern, the perfect spot to stop for lunch. The original 1780s building was a tavern on a stagecoach road. In 1920, it was moved to its current location by its owner, who
More than a dozen local artists collaborated to create The Looking Glass, an immersive art museum in downtown Charlottesville, left. It is located at the IX Art Park, which hosts a farmers market, concerts and other events. The park is also a great spot to explore, as 16-month-old Elias Ottenhoff, above, discovers.
About a dozen wines are available for sampling in the tasting room at Valley Road Vineyards.
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planned to open an antiques shop. Capitalizing on the opening of Monticello to tourists in 1924, the Michie Tavern opened in 1928 as a tearoom and antiques shop.
It continues to serve standout Southern fare like fried chicken, black-eyed peas, green beans and biscuits, served buffet style. It might be difficult, but save room for the peach cobbler with vanilla ice cream.
IX Art Park & The Looking Glass
Families with children (of all ages) shouldn’t miss The Looking Glass, an interactive art museum which opened in January 2020. More than a dozen artists collaborated to create a 3,000-square-foot enchanted forest. Last year, the museum doubled in size to 6,000 square feet.
Visitors enter through a curio shop lobby, filled with a jumble of trinkets and tchotchkes. A large door-sized mirror is tucked into one corner. “The idea is that it's your classic portal fantasy — Narnia, Alice in Wonderland, Wizard of Oz — where you're coming into a curio shop, and there’s this Looking Glass,” said Danielle Bricker, Marketing manager at IX Art Park.
It’s a family friendly, but not a kids-only space. Some of the multimedia exhibits are low to the ground for children to discover; others are at adult height.
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A wine enthusiast's car is parked at one of the stops on the Monticello Wine Trail, which consists of 40 wineries, all within 25 miles of Charlottesville.
Stay the Weekend
Dairy Market
946 Grady Ave., Charlottesville (434) 326-4552 dairymarketcville.com
Orzo Kitchen & Wine Bar
Keswick Vineyards
1575 Keswick Winery Drive, Keswick (434) 244 -3341 keswickvineyards.com
Sultan Kebab
333 2nd St. SE, Charlottesville (434) 981 0090 sultankebabcville.com
Monticello
IX Art Park/The Looking Glass
522 2nd St. SE, Charlottesville ixartpark.org
Michie Tavern
The Whiskey Jar
Valley Road Vineyards
9264 Critzer Shop Road, Afton (540) 456-6350 valleyroadwines.com
Veritas Vineyard & Winery
151 Veritas Lane, Afton (540) 456-8000 veritaswines.com
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“We did not expect this to be an attraction that people became regulars in,” said Bricker. “It kind of felt like, ‘Once you've seen it, you've seen it.’ But especially with families, we get a lot of repeat visitors.”
The museum is located in the IX Art Park. The former site of the Frank Ix & Sons Textile Factory was transformed into an open-air event space and became a nonprofit in 2019. Its mission is “to make art in all its forms a daily reality for everyone.”
More than 250 events a year are held there, including free outdoor concerts, salsa dance lessons, a farmers market, theater performances and more. Even when nothing formal is planned, visitors can grab a bucket of chalk or an art kit with paper, brushes and paints.
Food and more
Adjacent to the IX Art Park is Three Notch’d Craft Kitchen & Brewery, serving up craft beer and “a locally sourced, beer-infused menu.” Stop in for elevated pub fare or seek out one of the many independent restaurants nearby. Whether it’s Turkish fare from Sultan Kebab, Mediterranean from Orzo Kitchen & Wine Bar, or Southern staples from The Whiskey Jar, you won’t be disappointed.
“The quality of the food and the sheer number of restaurants that we have just make this a really incredible food destination,” said Brantley Ussery, marketing director for Albemarle County.
A new destination on the food scene is the Dairy Market, which opened in December 2020. Charlottesville’s first food hall, located inside a historic downtown dairy, contains retail space,12 food stalls, a full-service restaurant and a brewery.
The food, culture, history and, yes, the wineries make Charlottesville, a city of 50,000 or so, a destination that, as Ussery puts it, “punches above its weight.” t
