September 2009
THE REAL SOUTH AFRICA A DIARY OF CULTURE AND SPORT MOUTHWATERING CUISINE SOUTH AFRICAN WINERIES SEE THE BIG FIVE ON SAFARI A GUIDE FOR THRILL-SEEKERS THE TOP GOLF COURSES CHILL OUT IN A SPA
A SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT IN ASSOCIATION WITH
Legendary Luxury and Iconic Elegance
Mount Nelson Hotel The Westcliff Hotel Johannesburg Set on the historic Westcliff Ridge amongst flowering gardens with meandering pathways, the Westcliff Hotel provides spectacular views across the lush forested suburbs of Johannesburg and the Zoological Gardens. As one of Johannesburg’s most iconic hotels, The Westcliff offers 115 individually decorated and spacious rooms and suites, including thirty executive rooms which are dedicated exclusively to its business guests. In addition, all rooms and public areas also have wireless Broadband connectivity. But the Westcliff is also a haven for families, with personalised children’s amenities and other child-friendly services. These include babysitting and ‘turndown’ bedtime stories with hot milk, as well as cots, baby baths, bottle warmers, movies and children’s menus. Leisure facilities at The Westcliff Hotel include two heated swimming pools, a floodlit tennis court, a fully-equipped modern gym and the Botanica Spa. It also has a complimentary Business Centre as well as excellent Conference and Banqueting facilities. Dining and drinking options include the Polo Bar, vibrant and buzzing from morning until late at night, and the adjacent pool deck which is a must for afternoon tea and sundowners. In addition, the La Belle Terrasse restaurant offers a beautiful terraced setting in which you can enjoy the best of South Africa’s local produce. And if that’s not enough, the hotel also offers a frequent complimentary shuttle service to neighbouring restaurants, bars, cafes, cinemas, galleries, shops and business hubs.
www.westcliff.co.za
Cape Town Mount Nelson Hotel is Cape Town’s legendary luxury resort and the hotel of choice of discerning global travellers since 1899. Conveniently located within the city’s cultural centre, ideally situated for guests to explore the heart of the city, the V&A Waterfront and the Atlantic Seaboard’s pristine beaches, the sprawling garden estate setting is an urban sanctuary. Two heated swimming pools, rolling lawns, a palms and rose gardens lend themselves to romance, and abundant space makes families feel at home. Seven distinctive accommodation wings offer a variety of 201 individually styled, elegantly appointed rooms and suites. A world famous Afternoon Tea buffet takes place daily in the hotel lounge and is a not to be missed experience, and Planet Champagne and Cocktail Bar is an idyllic sundowner spot, popular with the slick set. Librisa Spa is a destination day spa boasting eight oversized treatment and shower rooms, manicure and pedicure rooms, and a sun-splashed conservatory. Treatments are based on the healing power of touch and incorporate local product ranges.
www.mountnelson.co.za
Contents I
t’s almost impossible to leave South Africa disappointed. Over the following pages you’ll find out why. It’s a truly diverse country, not just in terms of culture and heritage (the townships are as much a part of the experience as the safaris), but also in its immensely varied natural terrain and range of activities. Even our chief journalist for this guide, who left the UK to live and work in South Africa some years ago, is still intoxicated by everything there is to see and do there. On a recent trip to the bush, for instance, she rapturously reported back on how she’d seen a lioness flirting with a male, and then saw a whole pride up close, including five male cubs. Beat that, BBC Big Cat Diary. It’s no wonder that South Africa is so popular—it’s an affordable, all-year destination and just two hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, so no bothersome jet lag. And it has something for everyone—from cosmopolitan cities such as Johannesburg, and the chic waterfront bars of Cape Town to fascinating architecture, fine beaches and bush. And though we’re all buzzing about the World Cup in June and July 2010, there’s plenty more sport and adventure to get involved in, including year-round golf, hiking, or just exercising your taste buds in the winelands. We hope this guide inspires you to discover the real South Africa for yourselves.
Amy Duff, Deputy Editor
4
WHAT’S ON Your guide to the main sporting and cultural events in 2009 and 2010
8
FOOD From Michelin-star dining to barbecues under the stars, we discover what South African food is all about and pick some of the best places to eat it
10 WINE Fine wining and dining is popular in the lush valleys around Franschhoek, Paarl and Stellenbosch, but there are gems off the beaten track, too
12 WILDLIFE It has some world-renowned safari destinations, but there’s more to South Africa’s animal kingdom than the Big Five.The whale-watching isn’t bad, either
16 ADVENTURE We seek out six of the best thrills in the adventure capital of the world
17 GOLF The great weather means golfers can enjoy their sport all year round. From courses located near national parks to those by the sea, the choice is immense
18 WELLNESS It’s not all about the adrenaline rush and getting active outdoors—we guide you to the best spas and treatments to help you unwind and relax For more After Hours content visit www.director.co.uk/afterhours
>Group Editor Richard Cree >Deputy Editors Amy Duff, David Woodward >Art Director John Poile >Sub Editor Robert Sly >Associate Editors Sarah Hanson, Tina Nielsen >Editorial Assistant Elizabeth Knights-Ward >Contributors Lesley Malachowski, Claire Coleman, Hugo Rose >Advertising Director Jo Appleyard >Advertising Manager Ben Hammond >Client Sales Manager Fiona O’Mahony >Senior Sales Manager Tanu Kurien >Production Manager Lisa Robertson >Production Controller Emma Bowen >Chief Operating Officer Andrew Main Wilson Published by Director Publications Ltd for the Institute of Directors, 116 Pall Mall, London, SW1Y 5ED. Opinions expressed do not necessarily reflect IoD policy. The IoD accepts no responsibility for views expressed by contributors. Editorial 020 7766 8950 director-ed@iod.com Advertising 020 7766 8900 director-ads@iod.com Production 020 7766 8960 production@iod.com Subscriptions 020 7766 8866 © All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Colour transparencies, manuscripts or disks submitted to the magazine are sent at owner’s risk; neither the company nor its agents accept any responsibility for loss or damage. Unsolicited material should be accompanied by a stamped self-addressed envelope.
SEPTEMBER 2009 2 AFTERHOURS 3
Travel information GETTING THERE
CURRENCY
OR Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg is South Africa’s major air hub. It is serviced by more than 70 airlines, including the national carrier, South African Airways. Cape Town Airport also receives a limited number of international flights.
The rand is divided into 100 cents. Due to favourable exchange rates, South Africa is currently an affordable travel destination.
WHEN TO GO South Africa’s seasons are the reverse of the northern hemisphere. Spring starts in late August and summer in November. Winters are generally mild. The best time to go on safari is June to September (dry season); for rafting, pick December to February (rainy season); and to go whale watching June to December is ideal.
VISAS Visitors from most western European countries, Japan and the US don’t require visas as long as their stay doesn’t exceed 30-90 days (variable).
SAFETY As recommended in most countries, especially in big cities, travellers should take common-sense safety precautions. For instance, don’t carry a camera openly in cities; don't carry large sums of money about; don't put your wallet in your back trouser pocket; and don't leave valuables unattended.
HEALTH Most of the main tourist destinations are malaria-free, making it a good destination to travel to with children. Typhoid and injections against hepatitis A and B are both recommended.
LANGUAGE English is one of 11 official languages and is widely spoken across the country. Learning how to say “hello” in the local language is an obvious way to engage.
CONTACT Southern Africa Travel www.southernafricatravel.co.uk enquiries@satravel.co.uk +44 (0) 1483 428 162
2009-2010
Dazzling dates for your diary Sport October 3-12 Bloemfontein,Free State The Macufe Festival As well as music, theatre and arts and crafts, this festival also includes highly popular football and golf tournaments. Infectious fun for all. November 13 Johannesburg,Gauteng Cricket Before the 2010 Fifa World Cup in June (see page 6 for dates) it’s cricket season. From October to April, the England team will play two Twenty20 internationals, five one4 THE REAL SOUTH AFRICA 2 SEPTEMBER 2009
day internationals and four Test matches during their tour of South Africa.The first Twenty20 international against South Africa is on November 13. Having already played the Aussies, it promises to be an exciting tour. November 20 Johannesburg,Gauteng Cricket: First one-day international, South Africa versus England. December 16 SuperSport Park, Centurion Cricket: The eagerly anticipated first Test between South Africa and England.
WHAT’S ON
Rocking the Daisies Three days of live
bands, DJ sessions and art performances attract festival-goers more at home in a tent than a hotel. Just an hour’s drive from Cape Town, there’s more than just music, with comedy, cinema, a gaming arena and theatre also on the programme. November 19-21 Ficksburg, Free State Ficksburg Cherry Festival Hot tickets: Siphokazi, left, the First Lady of Afro-pop, performs at the Macufe Festival in Bloemfontein in October. Top: Wanderers Stadium in Johannesburg hosts the first one-day international between South Africa and England on November 20. Below: whale watchers at Hermanus, where a festival is held every September
March 14 Cape Town,Western Cape Cape Argus Cycle Challenge You don’t have to live in South Africa to take to your bike with more than 35,000 other cyclists on the 109-kilometre tour through Cape Town and the Peninsula. A must for keen cyclists. June See page 6 for 2010 Fifa World Cup details
Nature
September 24-27 Hermanus,Western Cape Hermanus Whale Festival Every year, southern right whales travel thousands of miles to the Cape to mate and calve in the bays. Join Hermanus locals for what they say is the world’s best land-based whale watching. September Namaqua National Park, Namaqualand Namaqua Spring Flowers From July to the end of September, visitors to the vast Namakwa region get to see the previously rugged wide-open plains and rocky outcrops explode with colourful wildflowers. Starting in the Sandveld strip around Springbok and Steinkopf to the west, move eastwards towards the mountainous areas.
September 25-27 Simon’s Town,Western Cape Penguin Festival Since an influx of African penguins in the mid-1980s, the residents of tranquil Simon’s Town have chosen to celebrate their presence rather than evict them.This popular festival places a big emphasis on conservation.There are interactive environmental displays, art exhibitions and children’s activities.
Festivals
September 24-27 Drakensberg, KwaZulu-Natal White Mountain Folk Festival For acoustic
music lovers everywhere, the annual White
Mountain Folk Festival is held near Giant’s Castle in the idyllic Central Drakensberg region of KwaZulu-Natal.There are performances by well known and up-andcoming South African artists, while other attractions include hiking, boating and fishing, arts and crafts, a beer market, assorted food stalls and children’s entertainment. September 24-27 University of Johannesburg, Soweto Campus, Gauteng Soweto Festival While this event celebrates old local traditions, its main purpose is to empower young people. Held around South Africa’s Heritage Day, there are art performances, including music, comedy, poetry readings and storytelling as well as health and beauty areas and fashion shows. October 9-11 Cloof Wine Estate,Western Cape
What attracts around 20, 000 visitors to this small town every November? The scenery is magnificent, but the area’s cherries are the main draw.Visitors get to enjoy cherry and asparagus tastings, tours, picnics, music, and competitions. Cherry pie, anyone? From December Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens,Western Cape Kirstenbosch Summer Concerts Held within spectacular botanical gardens, these outdoor concerts take place every Sunday from December until April.They’re special mainly thanks to the breathtaking setting. Part of the charm also lies in the warm, friendly and relaxed atmosphere, with concertgoers picnicking on the grass banks that slope downwards towards the stage.The candlelight performances are magical. From December 12 Mossel Bay,Western Cape The Summersun Festival The biggest event of its kind in South Africa attracts more than one million visitors a year. From food, wine, beauty competitions and live music, to touch rugby and star-spotting, most bases are covered.This festival is based at the Diaz Strand Hotel & Resort until January 3, 2010. From February 20, 2010 Cape Town, Western Cape Cape Town Pride Thousands flock to this gay festival each year to enjoy everything from drag pageants and beach parties to plays, poetry, film and book events. Over 10 days, the variety of activities is immense. A highlight is the full-moon hike up Table Mountain. And there are lots of lively debates for those who want to exercise their brain. April, 2010 Cape Town,Western Cape Cape Town International Jazz Festival
This annual festival promotes the best in South African and international jazz music. Since 2000 it has been bringing international and local artists to perform over two days on five stages.With its workshops and outstanding music performances it’s now an important event in the world jazz calendar. SEPTEMBER 2009 2 AFTERHOURS 5
WHAT’S ON
2010 FIFA World Cup
to watch the coverage on TV.The hosts are Pretoria, Polokwane, Durban, Port Elizabeth, Cape Town, Johannesburg, Bloemfontein, Nelspruit and Rustenburg. Five major stadiums are being renovated for the finals—Soccer City (the jewel in South Africa’s crown, with a 94,700 capacity), and Ellis Park in Johannesburg; Loftus Versfeld in Pretoria; Rustenburg’s Royal Bafokeng Stadium; and the Free State Stadium in Bloemfontein. Soccer City will host both the opening match and the final on July 11.The five new, or rebuilt, arenas are the Nelson Mandela Bay in Port Elizabeth; the Mbombela at Nelspruit; the Peter Mokaba Stadium in Polokwane; the Durban Stadium; and Cape Town’s Green Point.Two multi-sport facilities in Cape Town will remain, much like the London 2012 Olympic stadiums in east
Remember the moment when London beat Paris to host the 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games? There were jubilant celebrations across the country. South Africans were similarly ecstatic when it was announced that their country would play host to the 2010 FIFA World Cup. On June 11 next year the sporting spectacle that is the FIFA World Cup finals begins in South Africa. It’s the first time that the finals have been played on the continent. And if the recent Confederations Cup success is anything to go by, visiting fans from around the world can expect a month-long carnival of football.The countdown has begun. Held once every four years, hundreds of millions of fans around the world enjoy TV coverage of 32 teams playing in 64 matches, including heavyweights such as holders Italy and legendary five-time winners Brazil, as well as the “minnows”. South Africa (or Bafana Bafana) were joined in June by Japan, Australia, South Korea, North Korea and the Netherlands. If England—top of World Cup Group Six—beat Croatia on September 9, they’re through to the finals as well. The nine host cities across eight provinces are preparing themselves for an influx of around half a million football fans not content
Carnival of football: the iconic Soccer City in Johannesburg, below, will host the World Cup final. Right: the new Durban Stadium
London, as a legacy to sport development.To make sure the event is enjoyed by as many locals as possible, FIFA will give 120,000 match tickets on a complimentary basis to lowincome South African residents. South Africans see the tournament as an opportunity to show the world the progress that the country has made since the end of apartheid in 1994. And the fans fortunate enough to get their hands on tickets will be able to combine their love of football with an exceptional value for money holiday before or after the great event to discover the country’s beauty and attractions. Southern Africa Travel has a World Cup package: 5 nights accommodation at the Pepper Club in a Deluxe Suite + 2 nights at Sanbona Wildlife Reserve and car hire throughout. Costs from £1,899.00 per person sharing. Contact +44 (0) 1483 425 533 or visit www.southernafricatravel.co.uk 6 THE REAL SOUTH AFRICA 2 SEPTEMBER 2009
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Experience the raw beauty of South Africa by volunteering on a game reserve.You’ll acquire new life skills and help protect remarkable wildlife
GIVING SOMETHING BACK
A
truly rewarding way to taste South Africa is to become involved in a conservation programme or community project. Worldwide Experience has developed several such initiatives that are available to anyone aged 17 and over. At Shamwari Game Reserve in the Eastern Cape, game are being continually monitored and introduced. Conservation volunteers assist its wildlife department, which holds the Global Nature Fund Award for Best Conservation Practice. Typical tasks include predator, elephant and rhino identification, game monitoring and counts, alien vegetation clearing and infrastructure maintenance, such as mending fences and upgrading roads. The department is headed by leading conservationist Dr Johan Joubert, who treats the reserve’s animals at the recently opened animal hospital. Volunteers also help with the care of these species and can observe operations and darting procedures. There are only 20 volunteers on the programme at any one time, and they can book a stay of between two weeks and three months, although the ideal length is regarded as being six weeks. Accommodation, meals and a laundry
service is provided within the price, which starts at £1,200 for a fortnight. Worldwide Experience also guides volunteers with selecting the most suitable placement. And it will assist those who need help with travel arrangements and offer advice on sponsorship and fundraising options. Volunteers, most of whom come from the UK, are attracted to the project for a variety of reasons. Some are conservation enthusiasts; others are seeking a different way to spend their summer break. But for everyone, the experience of being involved in the preservation and maintenance of the reserve and its animal population is extremely fulfilling. All leave imbued with a new outlook on the environment, an expanded set of life skills and, often, new friendships that have taken root along the way. The Shamwari volunteer placement project is the largest programme offered by Worldwide Experience in South Africa, but there are other options. These include a 16-day Vets Go Wild veterinary medicine programme, the Tiger Shark Research Programme, based at the Aliwal Shoal Marine Protected Area in KwaZuluNatal and the Ocean Research Conservation Africa Marine Foundation’s ongoing development of a “marine park”, which
encompasses several initiatives around the sustainability of resources within the Plettenberg Bay area. Volunteers can combine conservation work with creativity at the Wildlife Film Academy, at Nzikazi, a tented wilderness camp in the south of Kruger National Park. And, for the not so adventurous, there is a sculpture course run by Bruce Little, a veteran conservationist who’s now a photographer and sculptor. For people wanting to focus on community projects, Worldwide Experience partners with Willing Workers in South Africa (WWISA), which is a community-focused group based in Kurland, in the Eastern Cape. The organisation relies on outside helpers to assist with community services, such as health clinics, education provision and skills development.
GETTING INVOLVED Worldwide Experience www.worldwideexperience.com 01483 860560 info@worldwideexperience.com
WORLD ON A PLATE You can’t separate history from cuisine in the rainbow nation. Lesley Malachowski guides you through a richly varied menu
S
outh Africans are passionate about many things—sport, music, the natural environment, and even their constitution. But they are especially enthusiastic about food. And, it is easy to see why. Historically, the influx of foreign cuisines has been linked to the country’s development. Spices attracted the Dutch in droves in the mid-16th century. And, when the Dutch East India Company wanted a resting stage for its long-haul ships, the large farm it planted for that purpose at the tip of the southern coast set the nation on course for the great wealth of different menus that are now offered by South African restaurants. The workers brought in to the farm introduced their own cuisines, most famously the Cape Malay, with its sumptuous fruity curries. Add to the mix, the French Huguenots and their ingenious ways of planting vines, the British in search of gold, and the Indian labourers required by the sugar cane farms, and
8 THE REAL SOUTH AFRICA 2 SEPTEMBER 2009
a clearer picture emerges as to why South Africa’s history is bound up with food. And, it is still embellishing this picture. Plant your feet in some parts of Johannesburg, and within walking distance you will be able to find restaurants serving Chinese, Japanese,
Glorious food: fish bobotie, above, is a favourite Cape Malay curry, while Boerewors sausage and mushrooms, right, are classic ingredients of any successful barbecue
Moroccan, Portuguese, Greek, Brazilian, Congolese, Korean, Vietnamese and Swiss dishes of high quality. In recent years, highly acclaimed international chefs such as Gordon Ramsay have flocked to the major cities, adding new layers of creativity and expertise to an already vibrant food culture. Even better, eating out is good value and affordable thanks to the favourable exchange rate at the moment . A country that did not have a grip on its own culinary identity would have long ago been overwhelmed by these overseas influences. But at the centre of all the variety on offer, there is a strong tradition of indigenous cooking—both African and Afrikaner. Visitors should try to sample both. African dishes include pap, (stiff
FOOD
Where to eat…
FRANSCHHOEK Reuben’s
A popular place for an al fresco lunch, the varied menu includes signature dishes such as salmon fish cakes, steak and frites with sauce béarnaise, and chilli salted squid. Award-winning chef Reuben Riffel has created a modern, airy diner with a regularly changing menu that makes use of locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Portions are generous, prices are modest.
DURBAN Harvey’s
An institution in Durban, Harvey’s is the place to go if you like your decor flamboyant and arty and your flavours mixed up and exotic.The menu groups dishes by price (great value, by the way) and encourages sharing.The wine list is extensive and the staff are attentive and knowledgable.Well worth a visit.
CAPE TOWN
corn meal mix), a staple food; morogo (African spinach); and amadumbe (a potato-like tuber). They can be sampled in an authentic ethnic setting, such as Wandies Place in Soweto, or in one of the city restaurants, such as Africa Café in Cape Town. Watch out, too, for creative combinations of international and traditional African ingredients such as the Zulu sushi served at Bean Bag Bohemia in Durban. Afrikaner food is closely linked to hunting (all kinds of game, with the accent on springbok, kudu, and various kinds of hung and cured meat); fishing (look out for the catch of the day, tagged as “line fish” on the menu, shellfish, or the delicious crayfish); and farming (Boerewors—a spicy, hand-made farm sausage). Expect to find all of these foods cooked to perfection on the braais, or barbecues, that every South African seems to have been born knowing how to use. The country is famous for its hospitality, so if a local invites you to “a braai”, prepare yourself for a feast of good food and entertainment, washed down by copious amounts of alcohol. Restaurants across the country like to serve fresh ingredients (gastronomes appreciate the exceptional quality of the food), but increasingly they are turning towards local produce and seasonal menus. The superb wine lists are also being refined to take this into account. First-time visitors will soon find that they have discovered a food utopia.
La Colombe
The Cargo Hold
Award-winning La Colombe at Constantia Uitsig is situated 20 minutes away from Cape Town on a working wine farm in the Constantia Valley and is famous for its excellent mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine. Executive chef Luke Dale-Roberts has recently added some Asian influences that have led to further accolades in 2009, including three stars in the prestigious Rossouw’s Restaurants guide.
If it’s a novel dining experience you’re looking for, head to the Phantom Ship in uShaka Marina. A glass tank forms one of the walls to a shark aquarium so you’ll be eating your food against a pretty unique backdrop. Opt for the seafood—the flaming prawns and shellfish grill and platters tend to score highly.
JOHANNESBURG The Butcher Shop & Grill
Ideally located on Nelson Mandela Square in Sandton City, this restaurant is a popular meeting place for locals and tourists alike. It celebrates the South African food heritage of braaivleis and biltong—alfresco barbecuing and snacking on dried salted meat.With its prime-cut beef, ostrich fillets and venison pies, it’s a meat-eater’s heaven. But along with the rest of the nation’s food industry, it still caters for vegetarians.
Roots maze
Maze, at the One&Only hotel, is Gordon Ramsay’s first restaurant in Africa. It showcases local seafood and traditional South African recipes, including game as well as fresh organic farm produce. Overseen by award-winning chef Jason Atherton, it has South Africa’s only imported American broiler.
With its unique and beautifully crafted combination of wood and glass, Roots, on the Letamo Game Farm, 40 minutes outside Johannesburg, immediately creates a soothing, natural atmosphere. Its menu pays tribute to African and Asian influences that are then blended with French cuisine.This results in dishes that are commonly described as “soulful” and “passionate”.
SEPTEMBER 2009 2 AFTERHOURS 9
WINE
CAPE CRUSADERS
I
cannot recall a single visitor to South Africa’s wine regions who has not returned enthusing over the sheer beauty of the vineyards. The landscape is stunning—picturesque mountain ranges, swooping valleys and, close to the coast, the blue shades of not one but two oceans. Factor in the vines’ lush deep green during summer, vast open skies and the exotic fynbos flora, and a visual feast is in store. Fifteen years after the rebirth of the nation, the wines themselves have come of age, offering a tasting experience to match the majesty of the countryside. The once-experimental plantings of sauvignon blanc, viognier and shiraz now stand shoulder to shoulder with the long-established
Spectacular scenery, a warm welcome at the cellar door and good-value vintages… master of wine Hugo Rose samples the best Cape vineyards varieties of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinotage, chardonnay and chenin blanc. Export success, driven in part by the favourable exchange rate of the rand against even the pound, has given the sector renewed confidence and the benefits of both economic and social development are tangible. Wineries themselves are embracing the visitor, even the smallest offering structured tastings and picnic areas, the larger outfits equipped with respectable restaurants. Local authorities have established clearly marked Wine Routes to steer
10 THE REAL SOUTH AFRICA 2 SEPTEMBER 2009
visitors, tasting room opening hours are signalled on producers’ websites and a homely welcome is on offer at many a cellar door. A small charge may be made for the tasting, but its cost will be quickly offset as most restaurants allow you to bring your own bottle. A little basic planning is needed to enjoy deep access to the heart of the wine country. You will need a good road map of the Western Cape and an up-to-date copy of John Platter’s South African Wines, but little more. If you don’t want to drive, then hire a registered wine guide for a day or more, but
be sure to establish your preferred itinerary in advance. So which are the best “wine farms” to visit? One basic rule should be borne in mind: if the cellar is large enough to cope with bus-sized groups, then the wines are likely to be mainstream commercial offerings, probably already available in UK supermarkets. Self-directed tours are more satisfying, offering a real sense of discovery of the great wines on offer and, occasionally, the prospect of getting to know a winery at the dawn of its commercial life. Conversely, many small producers can trace their roots back through two and sometimes three centuries. A logical starting point is the Cape Winemakers Guild (www.capewinemakersguild.com), a producer association comprising many of the Cape’s most respected names. The guild’s roster of 37 members includes Beyerskloof
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(www.beyerskloof.co.za), a prominent exponent of pinotage, South Africa’s distinctive homegrown variety. Look out for Diesel, its new high-end bottling. Jordan (www.jordanwines.com) is stunningly located with views of Table Mountain and False Bay while Hartenberg (www.hartenbergestate.com), in the Bottelary Hills 10 miles north of Stellenbosch, can chart winegrowing on the property back to 1700. The winery oozes tranquillity, with a wetlands trail and a garden in which the estate’s
offer a visual treat for visitors and high-quality wines. And enthusiasts would not want to miss tasting at Meerlust, whose Bordeaux-inspired Rubicon is a celebrated South African wine. The Cape winelands lie within the Cape Floral Kingdom, one of the world’s richest plant regions, and many wineries subscribe to the Biodiversity & Wine Initiative, a conservation programme linked to sustainable winegrowing. Ethical trading is high on the agenda, too, with top producers supporting educational and health
Grape escape: one of the Cape’s largest wineries, Vergelegen, offers a visual feast for visitors both in terms of the Dutch Cape architecture and highcalibre wines
cold lunch (pre-ordering essential) can be enjoyed. Other members include Simonsig, Boekenhoutskloof, Thelema, Waterford, Kanonkop, in effect the aristocracy of the Cape’s wine industry. Grangehurst (www.grangehurst.co.za) offers a self-catering, gîte-style cottage in addition to tastings. The larger wineries should not be ignored. Vergelegen and Spier
CLASS ACT
Cape Town’s elegant Table Bay Hotel blends colonial style with easygoing charm and offers unforgettable views THE TABLE BAY HOTEL does colonial
projects for their employees. There is a small but growing band of majority-owned wineries. M’hudi (www.mhudi.com), founded in 2003 by the Rangaka family, runs a vineyard, with tasting room and cellar, at Koelenhof, between Stellenbosch and Paarl. For travel information and advice visit www.southernafricatravel.co.uk or call +44 (0) 1483 425 533
Top 10 uncorked FIVE TO TASTE BEFORE YOU GO... 2007 Beyerskloof Pinotage £6.99 2006 M’hudi Wines Merlot £7.99 2008 Iona Sauvignon Blanc £9.99 2006 Jordan Winery Cabernet Sauvignon £9.99 2005 Meerlust Estate Rubicon £21.99 ... AND FIVE TO TRY IN SOUTH AFRICA 2007 Solms-Delta Lekkerwijn Rosé R71.50 2007 Warwick First Lady Cabernet Sauvignon R72 2008 Nitída Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2008 R83.50 2001 Vergenoegd Estate Wine (blended) R162 2006 Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon R188
style with gracious ease. Its vast reception area sprawls into a doublestorey, glass-fronted lounge where high teas are served each afternoon. Fresh orchids, soft, oversized sofas, polished wooden floors and the gentle bustle created by the comings and goings of guests ensure elegance aplenty. With 329 rooms, the Table Bay is one of Cape Town’s largest hotels and is often first choice for large groups from cruise ships, conferences and high-end package holidays, as well as private individuals.There are three eateries, including the Atlantic restaurant, which hosts the à la carte dinner and a multicultural breakfast buffet. Cape Town has more than its fair share of high-quality accommodation. What sets the Table Bay apart from its competitors is, first and foremost, the location. Situated at the end of the Victoria & Albert Waterfront, guests can be in the midst of the waterfront offerings within minutes. It’s perfect for those seeking retail therapy, sunset cruises or wanting to visit historic landmarks such as Robben Island. The upmarket beaches at Clifton and Camps Bay and the Table Mountain Aerial Cableway are all easily reachable within 10-15 minutes. On the land side, the view is of the harbour, with the city and Table
Star attraction: the Table Bay Hotel oozes opulence and offers sensational views of Table Mountain
Mountain as the backdrop, and on the sea side the eyeline is dominated by the stark silhouette of Robben Island, looking deceptively near to shore but which is far removed from city life. Rooms are generously sized and all exude understated opulence. Staff are friendly and efficient, but unobtrusive. This counts in a city that prides itself on its laidback attitude. For further details, call 01491 419 600 or visit www.suninternational.com
WILDLIFE
South Africa offers a wealth of natural wonders, as Lesley Malachowski discovers for herself
CLOSE ENCOUNT S
outh Africa is a vast country, much of which abounds with natural splendour. Millions of acres of land are preserved for wildlife conservation. And there are more than 1,000 private game reserves, as well as 22 national parks, providing open access to one of the largest animal and bird communities on the planet. The national parks offer the most openended, and often awe-inspiring, means of enjoying these riches. Kruger National Park, for example, allows visitors to drive at their own pace over its huge 2,600km road network. Alternatively, they can join one of the organised activities, such as wildlife drives or bush walks. Kruger has the biggest and most diverse wildlife population on the continent, including 147 mammal species, 507 types of bird, and
12 THE REAL SOUTH AFRICA 2 SEPTEMBER 2009
114 reptile species. On a smaller scale, North West Province’s Pilanesberg National Park, in an extinct volcano’s crater, enables visitors to view more than 8,000 animals. These include several prides of lions, nearly 100 elephants, and the world’s third-largest white rhino herd. And there are many bush experiences to choose from, such as scavenger hides and self-guided geological auto-tours. Moving south-east, the famous Addo Elephant National Park in the Eastern Cape, is home to one of the most dense African elephant populations worldwide. There are plans to expand Addo into a mega-park that embraces 296,500 acres of marine reserve as well as more than 100,000 acres of additional land. For now, it boasts the “big seven” (elephant, rhino, lion, buffalo, leopard, whale,
and great white shark) and the most extensive coastal dune field in the southern hemisphere. South Africa’s private game reserves deliver more specialised access to wildlife (see pages 14-15). One of the largest, Madikwe, on the Botswana border, has entered new territory in that it is run as a joint venture between the state, private sector, and local communities. Its large, open grasslands and woodlands, broken up by rocky hills, support more than 60 species of mammals, including the “big five”, and around 300 species of birds. Established in 1895, Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve is the oldest game park in Africa and incredibly scenic. The north of the park (Hluhluwe) is rugged and mountainous with forests and grasslands, while the south is open savannah. If it’s rhinos you’re particularly
ERS IN THE WILD interested in, this is the park for you—it’s home to 1,600 white rhino and 370 black rhino, meaning the odds of a sighting are high. It also contains the rest of the “big five”. Shamwari Private Game Reserve in the Eastern Cape (see page 7) is one of the world’s leading wildlife sanctuaries. It represents the pinnacle of luxury game viewing, with five-star accommodation, cuisine, and amenities. Here, also, the staff are dedicated to wildlife conservation, taking every opportunity to demonstrate its importance to guests. Luxury and comfort can also be enjoyed within the boundaries of the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, which houses several smaller private reserves: Singita, Djuma, MalaMala, Londolozi, Lion Sands, Sabi Sabi, and Ulusaba. All have exceptional safari lodge accommodation and
catering. The unique game viewing is made more likely by the absence of fences between Sabi Sand and Kruger National Park, which allows animals to roam freely between the two. With its wealth of natural resources, South Africa offers innovative ways of experiencing these beyond traditional game viewing, such as hot-air ballooning and treetop tours. And there are other wonders to discover away from the game parks, including walking trails, both coastal and inland. Walk in Africa operates guided walks for small groups. Its most popular trek is a five-day hike that starts by ascending Table Mountain and finishes 60km away at Cape Point, covering mountains, forests, beaches and clifftops along the way. A major offshore tourist attraction is the southern right whale. These huge marine
mammals can be viewed close up, either from the ocean itself or the cliffs surrounding the bays in which they like to shelter. Hermanus, in the Western Cape, is the country’s whalewatching capital, and holds a celebratory Whale Festival every September. Throughout whale season—June to October—the town’s whale criers signal optimum sighting opportunities with a blow of a horn. South Africa’s spring (August-October) is also when Namaqualand, in the Northern Cape, comes alive as wild flowers carpet the usually barren wastelands, creating a spectacular array of vivid oranges, pinks and yellows. The arrival of this brief but glorious display is dictated by the winter rains and spring sunshine, so cannot be pinpointed to a specific date. You should get the latest from locals before setting out. SEPTEMBER 2009 2 AFTERHOURS 13
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Born free: clockwise from left, up close with a white lion on the Sanbona Wildlife Reserve; a splash of luxury at Bayethe; the old-world elegance of Jock; giraffe spotting on the Shamwari Game Reserve; and a pool with a view at Sanbona
SAFARI SENSATIONS A holiday at a Mantis Group private game reserve is an awe-inspiring African experience.Whether you stay in luxury tented accommodation or an elegant, colonial-style lodge, it puts you right at the heart of an extraordinary wilderness ith luxury private game reserves, you really can have it all, as small parties of guests are taken by professional rangers on a wildlife exploration before being welcomed into the sanctuary of their upmarket lodge accommodation. Staying at any one of the Mantis Group’s private game reserves is a rewarding adventure. Each one offers an unparalleled level of personal service, a choice of accommodation styles and expert staff who are on hand to help you get the most out of your stay. Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, in the Western Cape, stretches 54,000 hectares across the Klein Karoo. Located only three hours’ drive from Cape Town, Sanbona is the perfect choice for anyone who wants to combine a safari holiday with some beach relaxation, or gastronomic indulgence in the nearby winelands and Franschhoek regions. As well as boasting the “big five”, it is also home to the only free self-sustaining white lions in the world and is famed for being the only conserved habitat for the riverine rabbit, which is the 13th most
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endangered mammal in the world. This malaria-free reserve has four luxurious lodges, each designed for a different clientele. Gondwana, for example, is a family-oriented lodge that accommodates families with children of all ages, while Khanni Lodge promises an amazing game viewing experience. The Shamwari Game Reserve, in the Eastern Cape, supports a vast range of wildlife and plant life within its five eco-systems. Located 60km north of Port Elizabeth, this malaria-free reserve is easily accessible by air and road. Alongside the main reserve, Shamwari is renowned for its award-winning conservation projects and for its association with the Born Free Foundation, whose rehabilitation centre sits within the perimeter. The reserve has seven lodges, which vary in size and style to ensure that guests are accommodated within an environment that suits their preferences. For example, the luxury tented accommodation at Bayethe, in the northern part of the reserve, mainly attracts a more mature age group, which wants an African-bush type of experience. By contrast, Sarili, in the
HEAVENLY HIDEAWAYS
south, is ideal for guests who prefer a home from home. Modern, airy and stylishly appointed, this lodge appeals to couples and small parties, with dinner served around one long table. Jock Safari Game Lodge was the first private game lodge to be established in Kruger National Park. It has exclusive traversing rights to 6,000 hectares within the south-western corner of the park and offers daily game drives and walks into the wild. Colonial in style, Jock reflects the elegance of a bygone era. It is split into two five-star luxury lodges, with the main lodge offering 12 thatched suites with riverbed frontages for game viewing. All have air conditioning, their own private plunge pools and an outdoor lounge area. There’s also a small business centre and a library. Little Jock, the latest addition to the range of accommodation, has three suites—all with sweeping views of unspoilt bushveld. This lodge can either be booked as a private safari camp, with its own personal chef and game ranger or as individual suites. A stay at any one of these reserves is the stuff of dreams. Where else can you combine the sight of frolicking elephants, with sensuous spa treatments, mountain-top sundowners and the extraordinary dawn cry of a hungry lion. For further information, call +44 1483 425 465 or visit www.mantiscollection.com
The Last Word is a collection of five luxury boutique retreats within the Cape Town area. Each has a special appeal and style, but all share breathtaking views, and elegance and comfort in prime locations. For city dwellers who want a comfortable bolthole, but still be close enough to the action, these beautifully appointed properties are ideal. The Constantia (right), situated in Cape Town’s oldest wine valley, is the largest, with eight generously proportioned and beautifully designed suites.Typical features include open-plan bathrooms, with tasteful mosaics and roll-top baths and private patios.The Constantia offers tranquillity, relaxation and privacy. Extras include an in-house chauffeur service and turndown treats, such as individual crème brûlées. Whichever property you choose, Last Word caters for your every comfort. The Bishops’ Court is located in Cape Town’s most beautiful and exclusive suburb, and boasts five rooms, a lush terraced garden with a tennis court and an infinity pool. Meanwhile, The Long Beach, (below) at Kommetjie, sits right on the beachfront. Its guests can unwind and appreciate the charm and culture of a spectacular natural setting. In keeping with its location, its spacious suites are decorated with New England-style décor. Beyond Cape Town itself, The Franschhoek sits in the heart of its picturesque namesake village.The
six luxurious suites boast all the characteristic amenities of Last Word properties. Award-winning restaurants are no more than minutes away in what has become known as the “gourmet capital” of South Africa. The Fusion Stay offers guests the choice of sampling each retreat. For an altogether different experience, the latest addition to The Last Word experience is the luxury 85ft charter yacht, Princess Emma, moored at the V&A Marina. Four luxurious en-suite cabins, all airconditioned, accommodate eight guests. The aft deck offers alfresco dining and the swimming platform provides easy access to the water. Why not hire it as a wedding venue, for private parties or an unforgettable board meeting? Call +27 21 7946561 for more information or visit www.thelastword.co.za
ADVENTURE
PARADISE FOUND FOR THRILL-SEEKERS From rapid-riding to an elephant safari, Claire Coleman selects six exciting holiday adventures 5. Whale watching When it comes to wildlife, the coast is almost as spectacular as the inland safari parks. From seals and rare birds to penguins, dolphins and great white sharks, there’s a wealth of activity offshore. But some of the biggest draws are the whales. A two to three-hour boat trip offers the opportunity to get close to these magnificent mammals in their natural habitat, and maybe catch a glimpse of other amazing marine life. R850 (£63)
6. Hot-air ballooning
1. Hiking in the mountains The Drakensberg mountains are a 243,000 hectare world heritage site and one of South Africa’s most outstanding attractions.With awe-inspiring basalt cliffs, bush, yellowwood forests and waterfalls, the adventure activities are diverse. Experienced climbers go for the sheer rock or ice-climbing but there are also stunning hiking routes of varying degrees of difficulty on both lower (try Giants Castle Nature Reserve) and upper (try the Sentinel) slopes. Kamberg offers the most spectacular examples of rock art in South Africa.
2. Elephant-back safari South Africa is famous for its safaris, but why sit in the back of a jeep when you can sit astride one of the big game that you’d normally aim to spot through a pair of binoculars? At the Kapama Private Game Reserve, which sits
between the northern Drakensberg mountains and the Greater Kruger National Park, you can take a safari on an elephant and spend an hour walking through the jungle. R1,350 (£100)
breathtaking Richtersveldt mountain desert. Combining fishing, swimming, hiking, rapid-riding and canoeing with camping and nights around an open fire, the experience is unforgettable. R2,550 (£190)
If you want a better idea of what this staggering nation really looks like, take to the skies.Watch the sun rising from one of Bill Harrop’s Original Balloon Safaris. Catch the start of a new day with an early morning flight while you sip champagne and slowly wend your way over the Magalies River Valley. From R,1,965 (£147) For more information on these activities visit: www.southernafricatravel.co.uk
3. Sleep-out in the wild Remember the thrill of sleep-outs in the garden? Now imagine how it would feel to sleep-out in the South African bush and experience the thrill of hearing a lion roar or the rumble of elephants. Game lodges throughout the country offer this experience, and the accommodation ranges from luxury treehouses to more basic platforms. The choice is yours.
4. Orange River rafting Outdoor explorers will love the prospect of a four-day trip along the Orange River, which winds through the
Licence to thrill: from rafting to ballooning, adventurers are spoilt for choice
GOLF
SWING TIME
Lesley Malachowski guides you to the best places to tee off in a nation of golfing legends
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outh Africa is a magnet for golfers. It has an ideal climate for spending time on the fairways and boasts the standard of courses befitting a country that has produced such all-time greats as Gary Player and Ernie Els. Leopard Creek has been consistently voted the nation’s best course. But it stands out for reasons other than sheer technical excellence. Situated on the border of Kruger National Park, it was conceived by Player to provide a unique golfing experience. Taking full advantage of the awesome natural environment, the design even manages to incorporate the “big five”—lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and buffalo. Don’t worry, though, players are protected by innovative architectural and landscaping techniques. Equally at home in nature, but offering a
completely different experience, Arabella Country Estate in the Western Cape hosts another top course, complete with five-star hotel and spa. Immaculately laid out alongside the country’s largest natural lagoon, this challenging course has the ninth, 17th, and 18th holes running parallel to the water. Water also features prominently at Pezula’s undulating course on the Garden Route. Only this time, it is the sea. The back-nine holes take players along the cliffs to give them superb views of the Indian Ocean. Also on the Garden Route, the four courses at the Fancourt Hotel and Country Club are popular. And at Dainfern in Johannesburg—another of Player’s natureinspired masterpieces—the rock-strewn Jukskei River crosses and runs alongside several holes. To complete the natural sequence, the course at Champagne Sports resort in the
central Drakensberg region is poised against the backdrop of the Champagne and Catkin peaks, offering golfers a full view of the magnificent mountain scenery. For more unusual, but no less inspiring golf challenges, visit courses such as the Jack Nicklaus-designed St Francis Links that can be conveniently paired with the easier-going, parkland style of the St Francis Bay Golf Club. South Africa is highly geared to golf tourism and offers a wealth of flexible and attractive packages. But, with a little research, it is not difficult to plan your own tour. Indeed, the country makes it easy for you. Stay, for example, at KwaZulu-Natal’s Marina Beach, and you will soon see why. The area is famous for its warm weather and palm tree-lined expanses of sand, but within 45 minutes’ drive, you will be able to play at nine top-class courses. SEPTEMBER 2009 2 AFTERHOURS 17
Lesley Malachowski pampers herself at a top spa and picks six other healing havens where urbanites switch off, relax and rejuvenate
BLISSFUL ESCAPES
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f you want to be wowed while being soothed and pampered, the Arabella Spa at the five-star Arabella Western Cape Hotel & Spa, near Hermanus, offers a unique African Rain Forest treatment that’s the perfect antidote to the stress of city life. Inspired by African rains, the therapy is made up of 15 “steps”—mini treatments that use water, lights, colours, exotic sounds, smells, pressure and temperature. It begins with an
invigorating all-over aromatic salt scrub, followed by an aromatherapy sauna, a soft, cool mountain mist and a session in the steam room, with eucalyptus-infused steam. The idea of alternating hot and cold is to tire the body. And having been suitably fatigued you retreat to special relaxation beds to calm and refresh your limbs. The most sensational step, though, must be the rainforest shower bed. Lying face down as warm water cascades, you really do feel as if you’re caught in a tropical downpour. As an escape from the madding crowd, it takes some beating.
AND SIX MORE OF THE BEST The Sanctuary Spa at the Twelve Apostles Prestige hotels own many of the country’s premium spas. The Sanctuary in Camps Bay, Cape Town, is one such offering. The spa must scoop the award for best location, flanked by Table Mountain and the Twelve Apostles mountain range, and with the wide expanse of the Atlantic in front. It’s been designed to take full advantage of the situation. Split into two 18 THE REAL SOUTH AFRICA 2 SEPTEMBER 2009
WELLNESS Spa gazing: clockwise from left, the Waters of Royal Malewane Bush Spa, set within Kruger National Park; Cape Town’s ONEwellness; and the Arabella Spa at Hermanus
distinct areas, you access the Sanctuary via a glass walkover that leads you into a grotto with a waterfall and a series of hot and cold-water plunge pools. The second area, known as the Upper Sanctuary, consists of five dry-therapy rooms (with heated massage beds) and two areas for hydrotherapy and Vichy shower treatments. And for those who want to maximise their proximity to the ocean, there are two secluded gazebo-style rooms for pampering. Many therapies here are based on the indigenous fynbos flora.
Fordoun Spa at the Fordoun Hotel This award-winning spa in the picturesque Midlands of KwaZulu-Natal really pushes the boat out. Alongside its extensive list of more usual facilities—flotation pool, heated swimming pool, gym and sauna—it has a bioenergy centre, which offers therapies focusing on our energy system, including bioenergy rebalancing, reiki, kinesiology, lymphology treatments and thermal auricular therapy, or Hopi ear candles in layman’s speak. The spa lists Dr Elliot Ndlovu—a sangoma (traditional spiritual healer) and inyanga (medicinal healer)—as one of its directors. Ndlovu treats guests in two African therapy rooms that have been built in Zulu style.
One&Only Cape Town In April, leading entrepreneur Sol Kerzner opened this glitzy resort hotel along the Victoria & Albert Waterfront to much fanfare.
One&Only boasts a spa located on its own man-made island and comprising 12 private treatment villas as well as a full-service salon, a relaxation room, sauna and steam facilities, two 18 sq m vitality pools and a separate teen spa. The signature treatment here is the Essence of Earth and Ocean Experience, which makes use of therapeutic plants, seaweed and salts to soothe, hydrate and nourish the skin.
ONEwellness This award-winning spa at the Radisson SAS Hotel is also located at the V&A Waterfront. Among its key features are 10 multi-functional treatment rooms and a sleeping area. ONEwellness is spacious enough to include a unisex fitness centre that incorporates the latest Technogym equipment and a vitality pool. Its signature treatment, which can be conducted on two people at once, is a combination of traditional and modern spa techniques, using heat, ice, steam and light therapy.
The Saxon Boutique Hotel and Spa Sitting in six acres of beautifully landscaped gardens in Johannesburg, The Saxon is a luxurious but welcoming bijou hotel, priding itself on its hospitality and impeccable service. The spectacular infinity pool is a centrepoint, while the Spa encourages weary travellers to unwind after a city break or safari. There are a range of traditional treatments (from pedicures to facials). Of the signature treatments, the Sound Therapy is popular. If the gongs and bells are a bit leftfield for you, the Imvula Ya Makhosi treatment combines massage with a luxurious mud wrap and is wonderfully soothing.
The Waters of Royal Malewane Bush Spa Another stylish haven characterised by a spectacular natural setting. Located in the Royal Malewane private game reserve within Kruger National Park, this luxury spa is where indulgent splendour meets the raw beauty of the surrounding bush. All hydrotherapy treatments, for example, use mineral-rich water taken from the reserve’s own underground stream. The Waters also prides itself on using rare indigenous oils and traditional ingredients, and integrating local healers within its mix of therapists. To book or find out more call Southern Africa Travel +44 (0) 1483 425 533 SEPTEMBER 2009 2 AFTERHOURS 19
...everything is possible! Southern Africa Travel is an award-winning, fully-bonded specialist tour operator that offers the highest standards of quality travel to South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, Mozambique, Zambia, Tanzania, Kenya, the Seychelles, the Maldives and Mauritius. For further details on the hotels, trips and tours mentioned in this supplement, or to request our latest brochure, please call 01483 428 162, email enquiries@satravel.co.uk or visit www.southernafricatravel.co.uk