Phoenicia, New York

By Greg Madden

Some 15 years ago, as one who was born in New England in the late 1950’s and not allowed by my parents (I was only 13 at the time) to go to the concert of a lifetime, I moved to Bethel, NY. I was eagerly on my way to see what all the hubbub was about with Woodstock and I stumbled onto Phoenicia for the very first time on my way. I realized in a flash that this was an intriguing locale that needed further investigation. But why, so I made a mental note in my further investigation file for the time being to check this place out.

On my way home later that day, Phoenicia was closed for the evening, but the sirens from the shore of the local streams called out beckoning my return, and the sooner the better.

Sadly, sooner ended up to be three years later, but Phoenicia didn’t disappoint, not in the least. Since then, I’ve returned many times for pizza, meals, work, meetings, shopping, and, of course, ice cream … and it all was delicious and time very well spent.

This little slice of paradise has a certain draw from yesteryear, a return to simpler times as the streets and shops are overflowing with wanna-be hippie types and bikers from a half century ago to today’s hipsters, who visit from the five boroughs, and also the ever curious globetrotters. Yes, I was hooked and so have many thousands of folks over the years. I may have just stumbled into Phoenicia the first time, but future trips became a decided destination to try something new and to just feel the vibe.

Phoenicia is the perfect location. It is hiding in plain sight and is a reflection of Americana, whether you desire an enormous summer time cold and creamy treat on a lazy afternoon/evening or perhaps have a house, or car, full of hangry friends or relatives crying out for good food that soothes more than the belly.

Crafted into the heart of the Catskills and surrounded by the Stoney Clove and Esopus Creeks along with Romer and Sheridan Mountains … and lets not forget Mount Tremper. Phoenicia is a charming hamlet in the town of Shandaken, NY that beckons all with its undisturbed natural beauty, rich and unique history, and vibrant community spirit.

Its recorded population is small, but swells dramatically during summer, ski and vacation seasons. Whether you’re seeking a tranquil escape from your urban life or an adventurous getaway, Phoenicia offers something for everyone at any time of year. This welcoming enclave is not just a place to visit; it’s a place to invest in and live, thrive, and be part of a very tight and close-knit community. Beware, visit once and you’ll be hooked forever, you’ll see.

There are no painted ponies (yet) but the seasons, they do go round and round here. As winter thaws and nature awakens, Phoenicia transforms into a lush, green paradise. The Esopus Creek, a focal point, swells with melting snow, creating a haven for fly-fishing enthusiasts. Local fishermen and those who return each year feel that there’s nothing like casting a line into the Esopus in spring. The trout are plentiful, and the scenery is just breathtaking and the feeling of peace, quiet and calm are priceless. Some say the fish jump right into your frying pan, but it is a safe bet to bring your rod and tackle, just in case.

As spring warms into summer, the village awakens to a flurry of activity, locals say it’s the busiest time of year here. This is when the hiking trails—like the popular Giant Ledge and Panther Mountain—beckon outdoor enthusiasts from near and far. A new and well received summer art festival is expanding with talented artisans both locally and those who come to the region to create and share their amazing displays and gifts.

The dog days of summer demand a never ending thirst for lemonade and slices of watermelon to cool one off during the steamy days. It is these sweltering days, however, that are followed by cool evening breezes that transform our region into autumn— and Phoenicia’s overnight foliage costume change is nothing short of magical.

The Catskills quickly burst into a symphony of reds, oranges, and yellows, drawing leaf-peepers from far and wide. The fall foliage here is unmatched, and everywhere you look, it’s like witnessing a postcard come to life.

As the circle of life rolls through this valley annually, the fall kaleidoscope turns to a purifying brilliant white blanket to restart the calendar yet again and snow constantly spreads out along our winter sports landscape. Phoenicia becomes a winter wonderland where if you tune into the deafening stillness, yodeling cascades throughout the region as the area mountains offer excellent skiing, snowboarding, and snowshoeing. When the time returns to warm up, a varied array of local shops and cafes provide cozy refuge from the dark frigidity.

Winter in Phoenicia has a special charm. After an invigorating day outside, there’s nothing like sitting by a fire with a hot drink after a day playing in the snow. That is just the beginning, however, as dinners and breakfasts are plentiful and world class … after all your yodel will need strengthening for the next day’s activities.

Locals and visitors come to expect the unexpected even when it comes to mealtime in this village, as many restaurants take great pride in offering healthy menu choices. You will find they source a lot of their ingredients locally. It’s about supporting our neighbor farmers and offering fresh, quality food for our locals and visitors too.

The backdrop of your experience everyday is breathtaking as the natural beauty surrounding Phoenicia is simply unparalleled. The hamlet is a gateway to forests, lakes, mountains and creeks, offering countless opportunities for outdoor recreation.

If you love nature, you will love Phoenicia as it is a haven for birdwatchers, hikers, and nature lovers alike. With its diverse habitats, it’s home to a variety of wildlife, including bald eagles, herons, beavers, not to mention the numerous bear families and deer. Try walking through the Esopus Bend Nature Preserve and you will feel a deep connection to nature and the earth. It’s a dandy place to unwind and recharge.

If you have a hankering to stretch your legs, Phoenicia is chock-full with challenging hikes with rewarding panoramic views nearly year round. It is a rite of passage for all and increases one’s sense of athletic accomplishment. That alone can bring you back for several visits to live or just renew your spirit.

Phoenicia’s small-town charm is perhaps its greatest asset. With a very small year round population, the sense of community is strong. Neighbors most certainly know each other by name and can often be extended generational families. There is clearly a palpable sense of pride here in our hamlet. Local businesses thrive on this close-knit atmosphere, offering unique and personalized experiences.

One of the many reasons you have been beckoned to this region perhaps is your eclectic nature or creative bent. Phoenicia has always attracted creative types as we have artists, writers, musicians—all contributing to a vibrant cultural scene. “Like attract like,” they say, and there is a powerful energy where folks come together to celebrate the arts and our community.

Phoenicia’s history is deeply intertwined with the Catskills’ legacy as a haven for artists, writers, and nature enthusiasts. The hamlet itself dates back to the 19th century, and many of its historic buildings have been lovingly preserved. There were tanneries here once, and before automobiles littered our countryside, it was the train that ferried skiers looking for snow in the winter and those wishing to escape the steamy cement cities during our hottest months. In fact, there is an interesting railway museum here highlighting how one would get to God’s country. The railway was crucial to the development of Phoenicia as it brought visitors from New York City and helped establish the Catskills as a year round vacation destination.

Perhaps the most compelling reason to visit or live in Phoenicia is the welcoming spirit of its residents and business community. This is a place where everyone is treated like a friend, and newcomers quickly feel at home. Whether you’re chatting with locals at an eatery, browsing the shops, or attending a community event, you’ll be struck by the warmth and friendliness that define this hamlet.

Our home, our town, our hamlet, your vacation or weekend away is a gem hidden in plain sight in the Catskill Mountains, offering a perfect blend of natural beauty, cultural richness, and community spirit. Whether you’re exploring the great outdoors, indulging in culinary delights, or simply soaking in the serene atmosphere, Phoenicia promises to be an unforgettable experience year-round. For those who choose to make it their home, it offers a lifestyle that’s both fulfilling and enriching. So, pack your bags and your appetite and head to Phoenicia—where every season brings new adventures and lifelong memories.

It has been said that Phoenicia is more than just a place. It’s a feeling, a sense of belonging. It’s where your heart feels at peace. See for yourself and share with others. Enjoy!!

Greg Madden is the Development Manager at Wellness Rx, Pharmacy for the Public Good. He also practices ancient healing modalities like Tui-Na Medical Massage and BioPhoton Light Therapy. More atIlluminatingWellness.care.

WellnessRx, Pharmacy for the Public Good is America’s first nonprofit Community Pharmacy located in Phoenicia, NY (PharmacyforthePublicGood.org), on Main Street.