norflok and suffolk broads

Page 1



THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID



THE HANDBOO TO THE

of





THE HANDBOOK TO THE

RIVERS AND BROADS OF

CMV

r YY

Norfolk

o

&

iCy

rv YY

jwtffaw.

BY

a.

CHEISTOPHEE DAVIES, \i

Author of "Norfolk Broads and Rivers,"

'"

The Swan and her Crew,"

<c., dc.

REVISED AND ENLARGED

EIGHTEENTH EDITION.

JARBOLD AND SONS, PATERNOSTER BUILDINGS, LONDON; LONDON AND EXCHANGE STREETS, NORWICH. 3,

BRANCHES

'

2 KING STREET GREAT YARMOUTH THE LIBRARY, CROMER. '

'

(All riyhts reserved.)

J


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History and Legends Illustrated.

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How to

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Sandringham, Past and Present. By MRS. HERBERT JONES. With 12 Illustrations of the Neighbourhood, etc.

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COKTEHTS.

Page

Cltapter

INTRODUCTION I.

II.

THE BROAD DISTRICT

DOWN THE YARE NORWICH YARMOUTH

III.

REEDHAM

IV.

YARMOUTH TO ACLE

V. VI. VII. VIII. -

...

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11

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17

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22

REEDHAM

TO

...

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43

...

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51

ACLE TO WROXHAM

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67

WROXHAM BROAD

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68

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75

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...

81

WROXHAM

UP THE

TO

TO COLTISHALL

ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM

IX.

WOMACK BROAD

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91

X.

HICKLING BROAD

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98

HORSEY MERE AND SOMERTON BROAD

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106

BACK TO YARMOUTH...

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114

XI. XII.

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XIII.

YARMOUTH TO SOMERLETTON, UP THE WAVENEY

...

117

XIV.

FROM SOMERLEYTON TO BEOCLBS

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124

...

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129

XV. OULTON BROAD XVI.

...

...

OBMESBY AND FRITTOM

$348661

.136


CONTENTS.

APPENDIX. Page

RAILWAY ACCESS TO FISHING STATIONS

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138

NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT

...

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143

TABLES or EIVEB DISTANCES

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14

TIDES

...

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151

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151

ROACH

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155

BREAM

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161

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165

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170

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FISHING GENERALLY

YACHTING

SHOOTING AND SKATING

FAUNA OF THE BROADS

171


ILLUSTRATIONS.

WROXHAM BROAD

A

Page ...

...

POOL IN SURLINGHAM BROAD

...

Frontispiece

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16

PULL'S FERRY

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..,

23

BISHOP'S BRIDGE

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25

BOOM TOWER

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26

THORPE GARDENS

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27

...

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...

31

A

NORFOLK WHERRY

ON THE YARE, AT BRAMERTON ON ROCKLAND BROAD LANGLEY DYKE ST.

...

...

...

...

33

...

...

...

...

37

...

...

...

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38

...

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41

NICHOLAS CHURCH, GREAT YARMOUTH

THE QUAY, GREAT YARMOUTH A "Row," GREAT YARMOUTH ABBEY

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..

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45

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49

...

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55

COTTAGE, SOUTH WALSHAM BROAD

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59

HORNING VILLAGE

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60

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61

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67

...

...

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..

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74

...

...

...

...

ST. BENET'S

...

...

RANWORTH CHURCH HORNING FERRY BELAUGH CHURCH

DYKE NEAR COLTISHALL

LUDHAM BRIDGE

...

77

78


X

ILLUSTRATIONS. Page

RIVER BURE AT HAUTBOIS

A WOODLAND ENTRANCE

POOL

IRSTEAD

BARTON BROAD

CARRYING REEDS

BARTON

BARTON STAITHE

...

...

...

...

...

79

...

...

...

83

...

...

...

...

85

...

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88

...

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90

ORMESBY BROAD

LANDING STAGE

DRAINAGE MILL

RIVER THURNE

...

...

...

91

...

...

...

92

RIVER THURNE

...

...

...

...

...

93

HICKLING BROAD

...

...

...

...

...

99

DYKE AT POTTER HEIGHAM

...

...

...

...

101

HICKLING STAITHE

...

...

...

...

...

104

MARTHAM BROAD

...

...

...

...

...

105

SOUND ASLEEP

...

...

...

...

...

109

SOMERLEYTON HALL

...

...

...

...

...

121

RIVER WAVENEY

...

...

...

...

...

128

OULTON BROAD

...

...

...

...

...

131

FRITTON DECOY

...

...

...

...

...

137

ORMESBY BROAD

LANDING STAGE

153


INTEODUCTION. SINCE the

first

appearance of this Handbook, and the

larger volume on the same

the

first

which the preface to edition stated to be in contemplation, the Broad subject,

Each year

become highly popular.

District has

tourist stream increases, but, happily, there is

No doubt some

of room. to

have the whole

still

of the old habitues,

landscape to themselves,

the change, but the less selfish persons,

the

plenty

who

liked

grumble at

who

happily

constitute the majority, do not object to seeing a dozen

yachts where formerly they saw but one, or a score of anglers where in past years but half-a-dozen might be seen.

A large

trade has arisen in the letting of yachts, boats,

and pleasure wherries for cruising purposes but the inn accommodation has made little advance, and is still too ;

meagre, and insufficient for the demand.

have made

great strides in speed

and

in

The yachts The

number.

Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club has flourished exceedingly,

and

Artists

its

regattas are popular.

have found out the charm of the quiet scenery


X

INTRODUCTION.

of the Broads, and visit us in great numbers. Notably Mr. E. H. Fahey and Miss Osborn have given exhibitions

London devoted

in

to

the

Then

district.

litterateurs

without number have written magazine and newspaper articles,

and

others,

few days' scamper, have

after a

written exhaustive guide-books

;

and so the

the present writer set rolling in earnest is

ball,

which

some years

ago,

helped merrily forward, and the Kivers and Broads of

Norfolk and Suffolk are fast becoming one of the most

popular of English playgrounds. I should like to put the brake on a

little

in one respect.

One guide-book writer appears to treat the riverside meadows as commons, and suggests that yachtsmen should bring lawn-tennis sets and cricket materials with

them.

Pray don't take such absurd

advice.

All riparian

owners adhere stoutly to their just

rights.

It

remembered that the

must be

rights of the public are limited to

passage along the navigable

rivers

and the navigable

broads, and the use of the banks of navigable waters for The soil of the mooring purposes and for towing. greater part of the river-beds therefore angling

is free to

ing, the shooting over the

is

vested in the Crown,

the public.

Crown

Strictly speak-

rivers is free, but this

does not give persons a right to shoot an inch over the banks.

Looking

me

Bure

to the fact that the

narrow, and passes through private earnestly entreat visitors not to

at birds or at bottles (which last

game

is

very

preserves, let

fire off

guns either

amusement appears

to


INTRODUCTION.

Xlll

be a favourite one) above Acle bridge.

The

sport to the

annoyance to the riparian owners riparian owners are generally willing to

visitors is nil, while the is

extreme.

The

afford the well-behaved public all reasonable facilities for

enjoyment. Let this be repaid by the public refraining from potting away at waterhens and pigeons, or other birds on the banks. It

may

be well to add that, up to about the year 1830,

the Broads and wet marshes were simply waste

the Enclosure Acts and Awards, these watery

;

but by

commons

were allotted and divided among the neighbouring landowners.

In some cases the rights of navigation and In others no reserva-

staithes were expressly reserved.

tion

was made, and the Broads are absolutely

in the

hands of private owners. In other cases again, staithes and rights of way have grown into disuse, and channels have become choked up by

mud and

vegetation.

In no

case, however, has the right of the Crown to the bed

of the

common

river

been affected or changed by the

Enclosure Awards.

A

great point to

the Broads set as

water

lilies

gather any

remember

much

is,

store

that the possessors of

by

their bulrushes

as the admiring visitor; off

the Broads.

therefore,

All flowers

and

do not

and grasses

which grow in such luxuriance by the riverside, within the river wall, or the three yards from the river margin where the navigator has an indefeasible right, may as well be gathered for pleasure as die and rot. Here


XIV there

INTRODUCTION. is

abundance

for everyone

repetition has

is

but to penetrate into

and help oneself

quiet nooks of Broads

valued property,

;

an indefensible

much

irritated

to other people's

which by oft owners against the public. act,

It is in this respect also that visitors

from a distance

most prone to err, because, without reflection, it Nor would there be appears that no harm is done. are

much harm

in a single instance, but

"many

a

little

makes a mickle."

As a

general rule, visitors from a distance behave

exceedingly well, being educated persons with a due sense of law

and

and noisy

The

order.

destroyers, the persons

bottle shooters, coot potters,

swan's egg robbers and grebe

revellers, the

who

luncheon rooms or dust bins products.

Of

use one's

boat-houses as

are, unfortunately,

home

course, I hear of all offences that are

committed, and by some people I am actually saddled with the responsibility of any breach of good manners

on the part of the brought the large

public, because I

latter to the

unknown

public (of

author I have had so

am

Broads.

whose

many

supposed to have

I therefore beg the

friendliness to

proofs),

when they

me

as an

visit

the

Broads, not to allow the exhilaration of an enjoyable holiday to interfere with a due propriety of behaviour.

The

hitherto unwritten rules of the Rivers

and Broads

are these:

Do

not,

in

the neighbourhood of other yachts or

houses, indulge in songs and revelry after eleven p.m.,

even at regatta times.


XV

INTRODUCTION.

Bathe only before eight o'clock in the morning, sight of other vessels or

moored in a frequented part

if

in

of the

Ladies are not expected to turn out before eight,

river.

but after that time they are entitled to be free from any

Young men who lounge

annoyance.

boats while ladies

Norwich youths shot, or the end Adhere

to

are

do

passing

this)

may

in a

nude

(and I have

state

on

known

be saluted with dust

of a quant.

strictly to the rule of the

road when boating,

according to the instructions contained in a subsequent chapter,

and when angling, moor out

of the

way

of

sailing craft, as afterwards explained.

Do

not throw straw or paper overboard to float to

leeward and become offensive

;

but burn, or take care to

sink all rubbish.

Do

not light

fires,

place stoves, or throw refuse on the

banks in the path of others, whose yachts to the

may be moored

same bank.

Steam launches must not run

moored

to the bank, particularly

at full speed past yachts

when

the occupants of

the latter have things spread out for a meal.

Don't take guns on board unless you have leave to shoot on somebody's land.

Eemember and do not

that sound travels a long

criticise the

people you

way on

may

the water,

encounter with

too loud a voice.

Don't go on a friend's yacht with nailed shoes (the of a Thames sailing club once came on

commodore


XVI

INTRODUCTION.

board mine in cricket shoes armed with spikes).

Don't

knock the ashes out of your pipe into his boat, and don't catch small fish and litter his decks with them, leaving

them

for

him

to clean

up

after you.

Don't moor outside another yacht without the permission of

its

owner.

Ladies, please don't gather armfuls of flowers, berries,

and grasses which, when

faded,

you leave in the boat or

yacht for the unfortunate skipper to clear up.

Don't

play the piano in season and out of season (the reedbird's

song

is

sweeter on the Broads)

before eight o'clock in the

;

and don't turn out

morning when other yachts

are near.

Observing

all

these

simple maxims, any number of

visitors will find plenty of

room

for their

own enjoyment,

without offence to anyone.

X

^

m A POOL IN SUBLINOHAM BROAD.


L Bi!

THE HANDBOOK TO THE

at 10rfolh

CHAPTER THE " BROAD

T

"

somewhat

is

I.

DISTRICT. to

difficult

analyse the

charm which the "Broad"

N orfolk

and Suffolk has

have once made only

way

ledge of

it

in

you

you,

if

who

its

acquaintance in the

an intimate know-

can be gained.

see nothing but its flatness

roads,

District of

for those

which

In a journey through ;

it

by rail, you walk along its

see the dullest side of

to its water-highways,

Suff0Ih.

and the glamour of

it it

;

but take

steals over

you have aught of the love of nature, the angler,

or the artist in you

.


RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

18

One reason may be that From them you view things point

;

along them

the rivers are highways. as from a different stand-

flows a current of

that on either rail or road

sometimes your master

life

the wind

:

from

differing

is

your servant,

an uncertainty in the issue of the day's proceedings, which to an idle holidaymaker is most delightful, and the slowly-moving water is

more

;

there

is

companion than any other inanimate Houses are few and far between. Often-

like a living

thing can

be.

times within the circle of your sight there

house nor

man visible. A grey church tower,

is

neither

a windmill,

or the dark-brown sail of a wherry in the distance breaks

the sense of utter loneliness, but the scene to enchain

the imagination of many.

is

wild enough

Long

miles of

sinuous gleaming river, marshes gay with innumerable flowering plants, wide sheets of water bordered with

swaying reeds, yachts or wherries, boats, rare birds

and

and sketch

plants,

and exquisite

these are the

pleasant holiday

may

fish, fowl,

little bits

and

to paint

elements out of which a

be made.

I wrote these lines whilst at anchor on Salhouse Little

Broad.

The evening was most

boat lay motionless the water around. petals

still

and

placid,

and the

the lily leaves which covered

among The white

lilies

had so closed

their

that but the faintest morsels of white peeped

but the yellow, which were most numerous, did not close so completely, and the dark interspaces of water

out

;

were thickly starred with the golden globes.

Beyond


DISTRICT.

19

belt of tall reeds,

swayed only by

TUB "BROAD"

was a

the lily leaves

yellow

flowers

iris

with colour.

on the one

made

the narrow neck of

Bounding the view

side a

wooded bank

A

sight, the river.

The

home among them.

the birds which have their

;

marsh ablaze

was a cordon

on the

of trees

;

other, but out of

amid the

rustic boathouse nestled

white swans lighted up the dark shades, moor-

trees,

the western

hens led their broods across the pool;

clouds were edged with sunset glories, and the reflections in the water were as perfect as the things they copy.

But though not

still,

was absolute calm, the lily leaves were but moved tremulously, and sent ripples on there

Looking closely, you saw that the leaves were covered with small insects, and the small roach either side.

were busily plucking them could hear the

little

off

once you caught the sound you found the these snaps,

and a most weird

The roach crowded I threw them.

my

hand

eagerly round

effect

air

was

and

full of

the sound gave.

to eat the

crumbs that

were they, that when I put it quite still for a

fearless

into the water

while, they little

So

You

the under side.

snap or suck the fishes made,

and held

came and snapped

tickling scrapes they gave.

at

my fingers,

and funny

I actually succeeded in

grasping one or two of the boldest.

A piece

of paper,

which had been crumpled up and thrown on the water, to and fro by the hungry little fish,

was being urged

who

tried to find

The

it

eatable,

clouds darkened.

and tugged at it bravely. went into my cabin as a

I


20

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

squall of wind

and rain came on.

The thunder

louder and louder, and there, alone, with the tempest

was

raging, I could yet write that the end of the evening

as pleasant as the beginning, so great to

me

the

is

charm

of the water.

I slung

my hammock,

hoping that on the following

day the sun would shine, the wind would blow, and the hours would pass as quickly as the boat as

sound as It

man

and

sailed,

slept

may.

has happened that I have written a good deal about

these waters

too

much, some people

One

say.

result

has been that I have been pretty well overpowered with correspondence arising from persons making enquiries

about the

when

district,

handbook or guide it

with a view to visiting

the publishers requested to the

me

it

;

therefore,

to write a kind of

Broads and Rivers,

I thought

a good idea, in that enquirers might, by buying such a

book, save themselves the trouble of writing to me, and getting necessarily short

and inadequate

afraid, however, the guide-book style

me, and

I shall be

most

at

home

if

is

replies.

I

am

rather beyond

I try to convey the

cruises in

by describing one of the numerous which I have sailed as guide to those friends

who have

trusted their holidays to

requisite information

select

my

care,

and

I will

one lasting but a fortnight, during which time we

covered most of the available ground. Before doing so, a few words, descriptive of the situation of these rivers

and

lakes, will not be amiss.


THE "BROAD" DISTRICT.

From Yarmouth, highways

looking inland, three main waterchief is the Yare, flowing from

The

radiate.

21

the westward; then comes the Bure, flowing from the

north-westward, and having her large tributaries, the

Ant and the Thurne, flowing from the northward. From the south-west come the clear waters of the WaveAll these

ney.

distances,

number

navigable for considerable

rivers are

and on the Bure and

of the

Broads are

its tributaries

the greater

These Broads are

situate.

large shallow lakes, connected with the rivers,

many

of

and are

them navigable. Flat marshes follow the lines and while higher and well- wooded ground

of the rivers,

near the upper portions of the

rises

the country

is

perfectly

flat,

three rivers are visible at the

The rivers,

level of the

and

marsh

is

and

rivers,

near the sea

vessels sailing

same

on

all

time.

frequently below that of the

at the outlet of each

main drain

is

a drainage

or turbine wheel, sometimes worked by a windmill,

pump, and sometimes by steam, which pumps the water out

of

the drains into the rivers.

The

fall of

The ebb and inland, but

are

so

the river

is

about four inches to the mile.

flow of the tide are

its rise

and

fall

are very

felt for thirty little

indeed.

miles

There

no impediments

it

may

to navigation of any consequence, " be imagined what a "happy hunting ground

this is to the boat-sailor, the naturalist,

and the

angler.


CHAPTER DOWN THE YARB,

H

NORWICH TO HEBDHAM.

" you mean to say," said Wynne, that these Broads are worth my giving up

a few days to seeing them

" If you

will give

up a

?

"

fortnight, I

promise you that you will find

it

too

You went to the Friesland Meres and enjoyed it. You will like those quite as short.

years ago, well."

So he promised to come for a fortnight, rather reluctantly, and when, on his anival in Norwich, he took a preliminary canter by rail to Yarmouth, he refused to say anything about what he thought of the country,

which looked ominous.

We

had hired a

ten- ton cutter,

and she was lying at Thorpe, a mile and a half below the city. The man we had engaged rowed the jolly-boat

and as Wynne was enthusiastic about old buildings, we rowed him up the river to the New Mills, a very old mill, which spans the river Wonsum near ita

up

for us,




DOWN THE

NORWICH TO REEDHAM.

YA11E.

entrance into the city.

From

ZO

thence we came back

along the narrow sinuous river, overhung with buildings,

many

of

them ancient and

bridges, wharves

picturesque, under

numerous

where wherries were loading or un-

loading, using the half-lowered mast as cranes, past the

Boom

Tower,

river

quaint Bishops' Bridge

;

still

keeping watch and ward over the ;

Pull's Ferry,

where there

L-UUiOP'S BlilDQE.

is

a ruined water gate, often sketched and photographed

;

past the railway station, into the reach parallel with

where gables, and archways, and courts Here, on the left bank, is another delight the painter.

King

Boom

Street,

Tower, built of

of Norfolk, faced

whence runs a

flint,

the universal building-stone

by another tower on the opposite bank,

fine piece of the old city wall

up the

hill


26

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK,

BOOH TOWEB. to

another and larger tower, in better preservation, on

Then we next passed

the summit.

works of Messrs.

J.

and

J.

the very extensive

Colman, and below them

innumerable stacks of choice wood, out of which the boxes to contain the mustard, &c., are made.

"You speak of this as the "I thought it was the Yare." " This river is the

Wensum,"

Wensum, but

coming

in

on the right

is

is

where there

Wynne;

this smaller

stream

the true Yare, and from this

point the united river takes the

This spot

said

name

of the

Yare.

Trowse Hythe, and half a mile up it, a mill, was once a famous spot for smelts,

called is

where they were caught by large casting

nets, used at




DOWN THE

29

NORWICH TO REEDHAM.

YARE.

night by torch-light, but the town sewage has effectually

The pool below the New

the smelting.

spoiled

Mills

was also a place where the smelts were caught in large numbers, but

it is

not so good now."

Presently we came river has

straight

been cut

new

cut

to Thorpe,

off

made

where a bend of the

by two railway bridges, and a

We

for the navigation.

took the

and Wynne was charmed with the view which then unfolded itself. The long curve of the river was old river,

lined on the outer

gardens leading to

bank by picturesque houses, with the water's edge, while behind them

rose a well-wooded bank.

In the autumn of 1879 this

reach was found to be swarming with pike, speedily

swarmed with

anglers,

who had

sport until, apparently, all the pike intervals since, there

pike to this reach drive the fish

it

generally good

were caught.

At

have been similar immigrations of

when

tides

unusually high or salt

up from the lower reaches.

end of the reach

and

is

a favourite

evenings, a waterside inn,

known

resort

At the lower on

summer

as

Thorpe Gardens, where we pulled up. Here there are also boat-letting stations, where cruising yachts can be hired.

we joined the main river yachts moored against the

Just through the bridge,* again,

and noticed

several

bank, amongst which was ours. * This bridge

was the scene of a most

disastrous railway

in September, 1874, when two trains met, and an appalling loss of life resulted, 25 persons being killed, and 60 or 70 injured. collision,


80

RIVERS AND BROADS OP NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

stepped on board, curious to inspect a Norfolk

Wynne

yacht, and he freely

commented on her enormous counter,

short keel, great open well, and tall pole-mast.

we stowed

short time

mainsail, jib,

and

all

our belongings, and set

In a sail

the spread of canvas rather

topsail

Wynne, who had only been used to sea yachts. There was a light north-westerly wind, and we glided

startling

swiftly

away

couple

of

before

hundred

But

it.

yards,

we had

Wynne

White House,

stopping to sketch the

which, with the trees on the of river,

ere

hill,

and the huge brown

sailed

on

insisted at

a

our

Whitlingham,

the wood-shaded reach sails

of the

wherries,

formed a picture we might well wish to carry away.

Wynne

often stopped in this way, to the intense disgust

man, who liked to make his passages had no sympathy with artistic amusements. of our

The dyke leading out

of the river

restocked from the river. at the

good

mouth At

spot.

last winter

"

What

and

by the White House

a regular harbour for pike, which

is

quickly,

is

continually

It is private property,

but just

of the dyke, in the navigable river, is a least three

by Norwich

hundred pike were taken here

artisans.

graceful craft these wherries, as you call them,

"

remarked Wynne, as he rapidly sketched the highpeaked sail of one which was slowly beating to windward are

1

or " turning," as the vernacular hath

it,

up the narrow

river.

And he was

quite right.

There

is

not a line that

is




DOWN THK

NORWICH TO REEDHAM.

YABK.

81

She has a long

not graceful about a Norfolk wherry.

low hull with a

rising sheer to stem and stern, which are

both pointed.

She has a

tall

and massive mast sup-

porting a single large sail which

is

without a boom, but

has a very long gaff launching out boldly at an angle of forty-five degrees.

The curve

from the

to the sheet is

of the

on

brown or black all

sail

points of sailing

lofty peak a curve of beauty. The wherries are trading crafts from carrying twenty to fifty tons of cargo. They are

manned

generally by one

aid of his wife or children.

yachts,

handy.

sail

is

can lower or raise

it

are nearly as fast as

weighted at the keel with one or

and

lead,

They

the wind, and are wonderfully

closer to

The mast

two tons of

man, who sometimes has the

is

so well balanced that a lad

with the greatest ease, when

necessary to pass under a bridge.

it is

Wherries are the most

conspicuous objects in a Norfolk broad landscape, and are in sight for miles, as they follow the winding courses of the rivers, often nothing but the sail visible above the

green marsh.

Very many of these wherries have been converted into sailing house boats or pleasure barges, and so constitute

most admirable

floating

homes

for those

who

like cruising

with greater comfort than small yachts can give. It

was an hour

when,

we got under way again, and down the long straight reach by

before

after sailing

Whitlingham, we came in sight of the eminence known as Postwick Grove, Wynne wished to land in order that


82

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

The man

he might see the view from the top. into open grumbling, so

we asked him

if

burst

the trip were

undertaken for his pleasure or ours, and on his reluctantly admitting that

it

was

for ours,

we

told

him

it

was

our pleasure to do as we liked, and he resigned himself to his fate.

but

The watermen on

these rivers are very

they look with disfavour upon anything

civil,

which

interferes with actual sailing.

Well, the view from Postwick

was

worth seeing.

The curving reaches of the river, animated with yachts, wherries, and boats, lay beneath us, and the green marshes were bounded by the woods of Thorpe, Whitlingham, and Bramerton, while the ruined church of

Whitlingham stood boldly on the brow

of the opposite

hill.

Under way

we

presently reached Bramerton,

End"

public-house offers good cheer

again,

where the " Wood's

wherryman and boating-man. The pleasure-steamers which run between Norwich and Yarmouth afford a quick but less pleasant way of to the

seeing the river,

and stop

at

Bramerton nearly every day

in the week.

Now

the higher ground

falls

away from the

river

on

each side of us, and the belt of marshes widens, the river is higher

than the surface of the land, and the

many drains and dykes by worked by the windmills which form such conspicuous objects in the landscape, and by more pretentious steam drainage mills. water

means

is

lifted

out of the

of turbine wheels,




DOWN THE

YARE.

85

NORWICH TO REEDHAM.

Surlingham Ferry, 6 miles by

river

from Norwich,

The house, with its picturesque shadow of a group of fine trees. A

next came into view. gables, lies in the

horse and cart was being ferried across on the huge raft

we approached, and

as

the chain was only just dropped

in time for us to pass.

There

a good inn at the Ferry, with limited but

is

comfortable staying accommodation is

fishing

on the same there

"

"

side is suitable for

fair

!

said

excellent roach

mooring yachts

to, as

of boats there are with people fish-

"

Wynne.

Do

they

all

catch anything

?

"

Oh, yes, any quantity, as far as number goes, of

roach, and bream, and fish are

some good

fish too,

caught in the deeper water, lower

Coldham Hall ance.

There

for hire at a

is

the next fishing station of import-

is

cheap

boating station,

As

but the larger

down."

a good inn there, and plenty of boats rate.

Fishing and other boats can

H. Flowers and

Co.'s

new

where yachts can be moored and

laid

also be obtained at Messrs.

up.

and

depth of water close to the bank.

What numbers "

ing

a

is

;

The shore above the Ferry

often obtainable.

the railway station (Brundall)

very convenient for anglers.

is

close to

The mooring

it, it is

places at

Brundall and Coldham Hall are not many, as the banks are very shoal

In the reach between Brundall and

Coldham Hall only

the middle third of the river

navigable for yachts

and the same may be said of the

;

long reach below Coldham HalL

Wr

is

could see half-a-


86

RIVERS AND BROADS OP NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

dozen fishing boats under the It

station.

lee of the point

But

without seeing fishermen there. sail the

above the

seems a favourite place, for I never passed

river,

a short cut across Surlingham Broad in the

This Broad

lies

man had

as the

yacht round the great curve of the

jolly.

It is not deep

it.

The

enough, however, for yachts or laden wherries. is

largely affected

by the tide, which sometimes

The

leaves its shallows exposed. said, is tidal

increases

We

up

to

we took

within a horse- shoe bend of the river,

and has a navigable channel across Broad

it

river, as I

and the

to Norwich,

should have

force of the tide

with every deepening of Yarmouth Haven.

rowed up the dyke which leads on

to the

Broad, a

small sheet of water, overgrown with weeds and very

The

shallow, but a capital nursery for fish and fowl. fishing

it

upon

is

Eowing

preserved.

across

it,

we

entered another dyke, and emerged into the river again,

and caught up the yacht. Snipe abound on the marshes

ming can always be heard

here,

and

in the early

their

summer.

drum-

The

far-reaching marshes glowed with a thousand tints of flower and grass, and the iris gleamed brightly in the

flat,

lush margins of the river.

We

sailed quietly on,

down

the curving reaches of the widening river, watching the

slow-seeming

flight of the heron, the splash of fish, the

bending reeds, until irp

we came

and the occasional boatloads to the

which we again

mouth

of anglers,

of a dyke, about a mile long,

rowed

in

the

jolly,

to

explore


:

:

'

W;V-?sn;jijj

\~";

WW&

>



DOWN THE

NORWICH TO REEDHAM.

YABE.

87

Rockland Broad, where the open water is much more Here there are several

extensive than at Surlingham. eel-fishers'

floating

abodes,

Noah's- ark-like structures,

The

with nets and "liggers" dangling about them. fishing

and shooting on the Broad

are, at present,

open

to all.

This Broad

also

is

notwithstanding

its

much

affected

by the

tide, as,

distance from the river, there are

numerous connecting dykes permitting easy flow and re-flow of water.

Back

the yacht again,

in

Ferry (ten

and a half

we reached Buckenham

miles), a favourite angling ren-

name

dezvous, with a railway station of the same by.

A

long row

of trees

on the

left

bank

is

wherrymen and sailormen, The man who plants trees by the

close

the cause of

shuts on

daily trouble to

as

the wind.

side of a navi-

it

gable river, where the navigation depends upon the wind, IB

and only

the very reverse of a benefactor to mankind,

gelfishness or thoughtlessness can permit such

There

is fair

on the same

mooring

side,

for yachts just

an

act.

below the Inn,

but they must be kept well

off

the

ghore by poles, or as the tide ebbs they will strand and

perhaps

fall

over.

comfort

and

its

The

;

The Ferry Inn

is

noted

limited staying accommodation

fishing is very

for

its

is

good.

good both up and down the

river,

and there are good boats for hire for fishing purposes. The river now becomes very wide and deep, and the shoals near the banks, which

abound

in

the higher


83

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

reaches, are not so frequent.

I

would

call the especial

attention of the river authorities to the disgraceful state

Buckenham

of the river as far as

Ferry.

Each year

the shoals and weeds increase, and the channel narrows, until in

width

some places not more than a

is

available

consequence cease to be culty,

for

the

third of the river-

made use

and the railway

be kept to the river

of,

as

if

natural

must gradually

becomes a matter of

it

will take the trade,

diffi-

which might

a more energetic care of the

navigable stream were taken. matter, and ought

The

navigation.

will be that the navigation

This

to be attended to.

H.NQLEY

DYEJS.

is

a most serious


DOWN THE Next

is

99

NORWICH TO REEDHAM.

YARE.

Langley Dyke, near which are the reaches of and by

the river where the principal regattas are held,

the river side

is

Cantley Red House (fourteen miles).

Cantley railway station is very close to the river, the water

deep close to the bank,

is

fairly firm ground, this

A

some

is

good

lower down, on the same side of the another house, " Peart's," where one may obtain

about.

river, is

as

Comfortable quarters

be had at the Bed House, and the fishing

may

and

is

a favourite yachting station,

is

with good mooring to the banks.

all

and there

little

" comfortable accommodation, and a " dock where small

boats

We

may

:

left.

delayed so long on our

falling, as

days

be safely

it

way

that the wind

usually does towards five o'clock on

the tide

had

so our progress

also turned,

We

was slow.

and we had

it

was

summer

against us,

passed the mouth of the

diet on our

right,

navigable some four miles up to

Loddon.

mouth

is

Its

marked by Hardley

Cross, which

forms the boundary between the Norwich and Yarmouth jurisdictions over the river.

as a public-house on the

was reached, and a

We

left,

lower

little

barely

called

made headway

Eeedham

down we

Ferry,

lay to against

the " rond," or bank, and

A

little

which

is

further

is

made all snug for the night. Eeedham village (eighteen miles),

picturesquely situated on high ground on the

north bank of the

and

is

river.

the junction

and Norwich

lines.

The railway

station is close by,

between the Yarmouth, Lowestoft, There is staying accommodation


40

RIVERS AND BROADS OP NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

to be

had

Yachts can be moored against

at Reedhain.

the south bank above the bridge, but should not be

lefy

unguarded, as the tide runs strong, and wherries tacking

through the bridge often jam up against the bank.

The

stove

we walked

was soon

and the

alight,

to the village for eggs

gloaming deepened,

Wynne

of wide space there

kettle on, while

and milk.

As the

grew poetical over the scene

was about

us, filled then with

an

orange glow from the west, while the swallows skimmed the river, and struck red drops of spray from the surface.

Then when

the awning was spread over the stern sheets,

and the lamp contentedly, to

smoke

we

lay

;

and

down

it

lit

up the snug cabin, Wynne smoked

the envy of the writer,

was

later

than

it

ought

in our respective bunks,

to

who cannot have been ere

and were

lulled to

leep by the ripple of the water against the planks.

EOAC1I.




CHAPTER

in.

HEEDHAM TO YARMOUTIL

HE

next morning we were up betimes to

down

take the last of the ebb

to Yar-

mouth, and catch the

As

tide up the Bure. was a fresh breeze from the

there

east,

we had

to tack nearly the whole

of the way.

At Eeedham there is a swing bridge, over which the railway passes, and if the wind is foul is

it

particularly

occasion

always a if

difficult

matter to

the tide be against you.

we had

the tide with us

;

sail

On

therefore,

through,

the present

on reaching

1

we could shoot the yacht up and carry her way on until through, when her head was paid off on the proper tack. the opening of the bri( g3,

into the wind,

"I

tell

you what, these Norfolk waters are

places to learn to steer in.

ehould have torn our *

sail

An

capital

inch either way, and we

against the bridge."

Yes, and what with getting the utmost on every


44

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

tack, without going ashore, shaving wherries

or two, and watching for every puff as

on the marsh, so as

the grasses there

it,

is

more fun

to

it

make

by a yard comes over

the most of

on more open

in sailing here than

waters."

Just below the bridge

is

the

New

Cut, a perfectly

straight canal, three miles long, connecting the Yare

with the Waveney, and so saving a round of some eighteen miles, which would otherwise be necessary to get

from the one river to the other, as a reference

map

Now came

a steady beat for several miles, until we

reached the Berney the river Waveney),

Arms

(on the right

tide is in, this is a

a-half miles long

is

the

mouth

of

when Breydon water opened out

Yarmouth

before us, with

on

to the

will show.

When

in the distance.

the

remarkable sheet of water, four and

by a mile broad.

There are

either side of the wide channel,

sea fowl greatly congregate.

mud

flats

where herons and

The strong wind

against

the tide raises a respectable sea, and the tacks being

longer

we made

exhilarating.

A

rapid progress, and the motion waa sail across

Brej'don in a strong wind,

ia

The channel

ia

a thing I always consider a great treat

marked out by

stout posts at intervals of two hundred

yards or thereabouts, but

it is

not safe to

sail

too close

to all these posts unless the tide be high, as the shoals stretch out ledge,

it is

beyond them, and, in default of them a wide berth.

best to give

local

know-




REEDHAM TO YARMOUTH.

The last

spires of

we

Yarmouth grew more

47 distinct,

arrived at its quays, just as the tide

and

at

was on the

We made fast alongside a wherry moored to the and while our man, with the assistance of one of quay, the loiterers on the quay, lowered the mast, and quanted the yacht up the narrow mouth of the Bure and under

turn.

two bridges, we took a stroll about the quays, the " " quaint rows and streets of the old part of the town,

and had a peep

The ebb

at the splendid church.

tide

runs very strongly, and, to avoid being

carried against the bridge

harbour,

it is

in readiness.

prudent

The

which spans the contracted have an anchor

for the stranger to

public quays are on the north side

next the town, and a berth alongside a wherry or other

There are private moorings laid

yacht can be chosen.

down and

" alongside the south shore off

it is

of these,

Island,"

customary, in case of need, to bring up to one if

vacant; but a yacht must not be moored

there, or alongside another sion.

Cobholm

If the visitor is

r

j

acht there, without permis-

nervous or inexperienced, he can

avail himself of the services of

one of the watermen

loafing about the quays, to help

him through

bridges which block the entrance which here enters the harbour.

The its

river

to the

the fixed

river Bure,

bends to the south at an acute angle with

former course, and for about three miles runs very

close to,

ing to

and almost

parallel with the sea.

It is interest-

row past the wharves and quays, where many


48

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

quaint and picturesque bits present themselves, but on

account of the rapid flow of the the river

much

tide, it is

not a part of

frequented by the river yachts.

As Yarmouth has guide-books necessary here to expatiate upon

all to itself, it is

its attractions.

not


A.

"SOW," GREAT YAE3IOUTH,



CHAPTER YARMOUTH TO

N

IV.

ACLE.

going back to the yacht, we found that she was moored in the North River, or Bure, having been quanted under the

two fixed bridges, and the mast was being slowly

raised.

The

big pole

masts of these river yachts are very

heavy and unwieldy, and I

when

the

am

always glad

and raising Sometimes they

operation of lowering

them again

is

safely over.

have lead weights permanently fixed to the heel of the mast (which latter swings in a tabernacle), but generally,

lumps of

ballast

have

to be shifted

and hooked on, a

troublesome "pinch-finger" business which I avoid in

my own

yacht by using a tackle and blocks. Of course the wind was fair, as our course up the Euro lies north for a mile or two, and then due west as far as Acle

;

and

it is

well

when

it is fair,

miles are very uninteresting.

There

for the next twelve is

nothing whatever


52

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

to see, except eel sets craft are generally

built

on them.

out of the

way

They

These Noah 's-ark- like

and boats.

made

out of old sea boats, with a hut

are shoved a

of wherries,

little

and the

way up

a dyke,

eel net is stretched

across the stream, waiting for the eels, in their annual

seawards, to swim

migrations

wooden buoys, one on each

into

it.

Those

side of the river,

two

mark

its

position.

Almost and

we

got aground;

hard

fast too, for the shoals are frequent hereabout.

We

at our first starting,

waited for the tide to float us a rope ashore to a

man on

off,

and

the bank.

to help

it

we

sent

The rope was not

and Wynne undertook to bend anThe man set all his weight on it, the knot

quite long enough,

other to

it.

parted, and the man disappeared on the other side of the embankment, where there was, we knew, a deep ditch.

Presently he reappeared, dripping wet, and in a towering passion.

a

little

He

refused to assist us any more, so

longer,

and as the

tide rose,

we waited

we were again

afloat.

Once round the bend by the Two-mile House we sped

away

at top speed to the westward, with frequent jibes

as the river bends.

tremendous

force,

The

great

boom came

over with

and made the yacht quiver again,

although we eased it all we could by rallying in the The low, dull banks passed rapidly by, the only sheet.

land-marks being solitary houses, known as the threemile, four- mile, five-mile, six-mile,

and seven-mile houses.

Then we came

where there

to Stokesby Ferry,

is

a group


68

YARMOUTH TO ACLE. which would make a

of houses,

where there

is

the entrance to the

and an inn,

accommodation, called the Ferry

tolerable

Then, on the

House.

picture,

some

right, are

"Muck

marking

sluices,

Fleet," a shallow,

muddy

dyke, only navigable for small boats, which leads to the fine

group of Broads known as

Of these we shall have something

Broads. wards.

A

separate excursion has to be

come

as they do not trip,

to say after-

made

Muck

experiment, I cannot

recommend

others to do

got through

this

to Acle

Here

a fixed

for

the wind before dark,

we were

Wroxham

spirits,

attained an upright position,

" Whatever

and

is

it

As a matter of

mud, and when

it it,

in mid-air.

going to happen

after a frantic

In the exu-

refused to depart from

course, the pole sank deep into the

Wynne

now ? " he

exclaimed,

gymnastic exercise on the top of the

and

quant,

it

Wynne

on his back in the middle of the dyke.

slowly

with

he attempted to jump a wide

dyke, using the quant as a leaping-pole.

so checked

then,

fated to spend the night

here, in consequence of a freak of Wynne's.

berance of his

and

dinner,

although we might have sailed up to

is

"When we

to be lowered.

we stopped

it.

we came

from Yarmouth.

bridge, where the mast has

row

Having once tried this

Fleet.

mile and a half further on, and

bridge, twelve miles

and

to them,

within the round of a yachting

unless you drag your jolly over the sluices, and

the four- miles -long

A

Ormesby and Filby

bent,

finally

broke,

depositing


54

RIVEKS AND BBOADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK

We it

with laughter, and, as

fairly shrieked

him

served

right, for laughing as

rolling into the ditch,

As we had had

when

to get a

Wynne

said,

he did at the

man

the rope gave way.

new quant from Yarmouth, we

to wait here until the morning,

and amuse ourselves

with fishing for bream, of which large quantities

caught here, and of good weight. ing station, and

new is

is

now

Acle

is

may

a capital

fish-

from Norwich by the

accessible

Acle

line to

Yarmouth, branching off at Brundall. a charming village, and offers many residential

ties to

who

those

amusements.

he

are fond of country

facili-

and aquatic

life

It is within easy reach of all the best

Broads, lying on the rivers Bure and Thurne, and not far

by water

Yarmouth.

to

the " King's Head,"

There are three good inns

the " Queen's Head," and the

The most convenient

"Angel."

"

is

the

one by Acle

who

well

understands and can supply the needs of yachting

men

bridge (the

and

anglers.

Angel

"),

There

is

kept by Mr. Kose,

staying accommodation at the

inn, a wagonnette to meet the trains, fishing boats to let,

and every attention from the

mooring the river

host.

As

there

is

wide and deep, Acle

to the

and angling

is

rapidly becoming a

station.

wide breadth of marsh there

Owing wind for sailing, and the reaches above Acle Bure.

good and

to both banks, especially above the bridge,

favourite yachting

mouth

is

are wider

and

finer

to

is

a tru

Thurne-

than any other parts of tho




CHAPTEB

V.

ACLE TO WROXHAM.

HE

wind, on the next morning, was from

the north-west, a head wind for us, and

was

there that to to the

little

of it;

we could not stem

quant

mouth

so

little,

for three miles.

to

the west,

of the river Thurne, leading to

strength,

Wroxham.

and as

we were

had

Then we came

Hickling Broad, up which we intended to

our return from

indeed,

the tide, and

The Bure turns

the wind

off

sail

sharply

gradually gained

able to dispense with the

on

in

unwelcome

labour of quanting.

The

first

noteworthy spot that we came to was St.

Beuet's Abbey, situated on the north bank of the river.

Once upon a time covering

Now

much

it

must have been a mighty

ground, as

nought reminds us of

its its

building,

scattered ruins

testify.

founder, sensible

King

Canute, but a fine archway, with some contiguous walls,

upon which a windmill has been

erected, but

which

is


RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

58

now

itself

in ruins,

and two massive

parallel

walls,

standing about two hundred yards to the eastward; also, there are

arched doorways, and strong walls in the

house by the riverside, whose cool recesses speak of This house was once a public-house we ancient days. ;

landed to get a drink of buttermilk, and lay in a store of eggs and butter.

We

also climbed to the top of the

ruined arch, whence a wide prospect

is visible,

and one

count a goodly number of churches.

may

Opposite the ruins

is

a dyke,

down which a wherry

turned.

"

Where

does that lead to

" To South half

down

it

;

?

"

asked Wynne.

Walsham Broad, which

boat, which draws about five feet Still, we can go down in the jolly, here,

and

there

is

is

and, although wherries can

fish for perch.

This

is

a mile and a sail

down,

this

six inches, cannot. or, if

you

like, stay

a noted spot, because

a hard gravelly bottom, and, by the way,

might have stopped at Thurne mouth, which

is

we

a good

place for pike."

" I like exploring these dykes, so I vote we go down to the

Broad."

and overtook the wherry, which had been aground, and she gave us a tow down. The Broad, which was formerly one sheet of water, has, by the

So we

started,

growth of reeds and plants, been divided into two porThere was nothing particular to be seen in the tions. but on rowing into the further Broad, we saw first one ;




ACLE TO WROXHAM.

59

a cottage on the right bank, which, with

long, low

its

honeysuckles and roses, its trees and its landing-place, formed a most tempting object for a sketch, and one the artist would do well to seek. The thatch, deep eaves,

Broad of

it

The

is private,

its

save for the navigation across one part

South Walsham, and the fishing

to

old course of the river formerly

is

preserved.

made a

horse- shoe

bend down towards South Walsham, and the present straight channel by the Abbey ruins is an artificial cut.

The

site of

the

Abbey

is

an island of

midst of a great extent of marsh. the boat

we saw

the

with his rod in the

man

About a mile the river,

further,

half,

on the counter,

tow of a large perch, which we secured.

on the right hand, as we ascend

mouth

the

is

When

fast asleep

river, in

weighing one pound and a

ground in the we got back to

solid

of the river Ant, leading to

Barton Broad and Stalhain, of which more anon. " The

river

is

getting

uncommonly

" and this slow tacking enables Wynne, advantage, eh

!

How

close

we

pretty,"

me

said

to see it to

steer to the fishing boats

I

me, why do fishermen in Norfolk wear such extraordiary hats! Here is another dyke. Can

and, pray

we

sail

tell

down

it ?

"

" If we only drew four feet of water,

we could go on

to

Eanworth Broad." "

Then, on

my

next cruise here, I will get a yacht that

does not draw more than a wherry does.

It is

absurd to

have such deep draught yachts where there are so Let us row down." shallows.

many


CO

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

Ranworth Broad so

that

is

a very pretty Broad, but grown up

The

divided into two.

is

it

the village of Kanworth,

navigable to

private, as is the other portion of the

very strictly frequent

it.

eastern half

is

but otherwise

Broad.

This

is

preserved, on account of the wild fowl which It is

permission has

a favourite fishing place, although

first to

be obtained from the owner, who,

however, cannot be expected to give leave indiscriminately.

It is not

waters in this

worth while seeking

district, for

other fish than pike, seeing

that the free fishing in the rivers

could wish

for.

From

to fish in private

is

as good as

any one

the eastern part of the Broad, a

very pretty picture, with the church in the back ground,

on a wooded height,

Then

to

is visible.

Horning Ferry, where, as we approached, a we had to

horse and cart were being ferried across, and

BOBHXHO VILLAGE.




Cl

ACLE 10 WROXHAM. lie to for

The public-house

and the chain lowered.

across,

ferry

a few minutes, until the huge raft was safely at the

a very comfortable one, with a nice sitting-room

is

and garden

in front, It

head-quarters.

and is

is

a capital place to

about

Wroxham

Norwich, and four from

miles

nine

make

one's

drive

from

railway station.

A

further on is Horning village, a picturesque group

little

of houses, straggling along the river bank, with a large

windmill on the

hill behind, making a good picture. Here our ears were greeted with the song which, for generations past, the small children of the village have

chanted to passing yachts

"Ho John !

Barleycorn

Ho John !

:

Barleycorn,

All day long I raise my pong " To old John Barleycorn.

That

It is simple

is all.

from too

The

turns to the it

and extracts coins

left,

at right angles to its

passes the village, and on the north

a reedy sheet of water, called Hoveton Little

is

Broad, where there gulls.

effective,

easily pleased holiday-makers.

river

former course, as

bank

and

On

is

a small colony of the black-headed

the south side

is

a small, but pretty Broad,

Decoy Broad. Then the river turns more sharply to the left, and we sailed due south, called

the

having come due north by Horning. " What a number of anglers there '

:

and the singular thing

catching

fish.

is,

How many

are

" !

said

still

after

Wynne,

that they always seem to be "

have you caught

out to two fishermen in a boat.

?

he called


RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

C2

" About six stone,

was the reply; " but we have been at it since daylight, and they bite very slow." " I must say I think Norfolk a very favoured county, with

all

sir,"

these splendid rivers and free fishing

;

and one

place seems as good as another."

"

Yes, as long as you pick deepish water, and get

under a "

Do

lee."

they groundbait the place where they fish

?

"

" Not before they come, but while fishing they throw

good deal of meal, mixed with water and clay. If they were to groundbait one or two suitable places on in a

both sides of the for a

river, so as to

be sure of getting a

lee,

day or two before they fish, they ought to get even

more than they do now. Here is a boat-load Ask how many they have caught." jack.

trailing for

and the reply was, " Fifteen, but they run from two pounds up to seven."

Wynne

did so,

all

small " People here either fish for pike with a live bait or :

with a spoon. You rarely see anybody spinning by casting, or even using a dead bait on a spinning flight. Now, I know that in the hands of one or two people, a trail

With

three large

tackle, and roving about bank, you may get many pike and perch."

close to the

paternoster has proved very deadly.

minnows on your '*

I'll

try

it

in the

morning before breakfast," said

Wynne. In another mile the river again turns westward. the north

is

On

a very large Broad, called Hoveton Great


C3

ACLE TO WROXHAM.

Broad, whence comes the clangour of a large colony of black-headed gulls.

The Broad

is

not navigable for

anything of greater draught than a small sailing boat

and now

access

all

across the dykes,

consequence,

by

visitors.

and

;

it

has been barred by chains

it is

strictly preserved, chiefly in

to

it is

said, of the disturbance of the gulls

The

gulls flew, screaming, overhead, in a

white cloud, so that the air seemed the half-grown

young ones

as thistle-down.

floated

filled

with them, and

on the water, as lightly

nothing like so Although large as the famous one at Scoulton Mere, near Hingham, in Norfolk, yet larly

when

this colony is

it is

extremely interesting, and particu-

the eggs are being hatched

off,

and the

little

brown

balls, which represent the young birds, are and running creeping about the reeds and grasses, and swimming in and out of the water-divided tussocks. Air fluffy

and water and grasses seem thrilling with abundant life, and the ear is deafened with abundant noise a noise, ;

however, which, discordant as the music of the nightingale. at the east end,

of

it is,

has for a naturalist

The water

where the gulls

are,

an exceeding great depth. Some years ago the American

is

very shallow

but the soft

weed,

mud

is

Anacharis

alsinastrum, that pest of our inland waters, so completely filled

this

surface.

Broad, that a duck could walk upon the

It

then suddenly decayed, at the same time

poisoning the fish so that they died by thousands. this time the

Broad has been comparatively

free

Since

from

it


64

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

During Wynne's

we

visited

it

the

visit

time,

we turned

to

said,

"I

see

don't

Broad was

still

open, and

After rowing about for

in the jolly.

go back to the yacht, and the

sails

some

Wynne

of the yacht anywhere.

Where can she have disappeared

I

to ?

know

that the

river is over there, because there is the sail of a

over the reeds, but there

and

it is

"I

You have

no use your rowing that way.

your way,

We

wherry no channel through the reeds,

is

my

lost

boy."

only laughed at him and rowed on. tell

you that there

Oh, yes, there

is

;

no way into the

is

river here.

I beg your pardon, but I should have

rowed about until doomsday before I found the way off." " And you couldn't have landed, for I don't think there is is

a bit of solid ground

all

But where

round the Broad.

"

For there was no sign The wide opening on the opposite

side of the river

man had

taken her on to

the yacht

?

suggested that perhaps the

of her.

So we rowed on, disturbing a kingwhich was perched on a bullrush, and there was

Salhouse Broad. fisher,

a picture.

Wynne

cried,

"On!"

with delight,

although I have seen the like so is

always fresh in

its

beauty.

many On the

and,

times, the scene placid

bosom

of

the small lake the yacht lay motionless, while a pair of

swans, with their brood of cygnets,

swam

near her.

Outside the ever-present boundary of green reeds, was a

darker circle of trees, and crowds of yellow bright bit of colour in the foreground.

lilies

On

made a

the further


C5

ACLE TO WROXHAM. shore was a thatched boat-house, and behind

The

bank.

it

a wooded

thud of the jolly against the yacht's side

aroused a wild duck; a shoal of rudd broke the surface, as they sprang from a pursuing pike,

still

and the

red-and- white cows, which had pushed through the reeds to drink, stood looking at us contemplatively.

We

dropped the anchor, and got tea ready, and Wynne at a water-colour sketch, brush in one hand,

worked hard

bread and butter in the other, palate, plate, and sketchblock mixed up, and the brush going as often into his

teacup as into the

we

After tea,

mug

of water.

landed, and walked into the long and

straggling village of Salhouse, in search of bread fresh meat,

and on our return, climbed

bank, whence a

fair

prospect

met our

and

to the top of the

At our

eyes.

feet

were Salhouse Broad, and the smaller Broad next to

which I

with water

lilies

doubling upon a land

Broad latter,

;

outside

;

itself,

Hoveton Broad

to the left

;

these,

the

sinuous

river,

as though loth to leave so pleasant

many

to the right,

white

and Wroxham

sails flitting

about on the

and more yachts coming slowly up the river. is a navigation across Salhouse Broad to

There house

it,

Salhouse Little Broad, a lakelet covered

call

Sal-

Staithe, but the present owner of the Broad

discourages sailing upon

it,

not to anchor or moor there.

and the reader

is

advised

The old times when one

could come and go upon the Broads as a matter of

apparent right are

now

past.


GO

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

We eggs,

went

and

to Girling's farm, close by, to get milk,

butter,

and

I

may

has comfortable rooms to whilst the situation

We air

a

quanted

let,

suitable

a

We

river to take us gently on.

had

As we came up

to Wynne. asked him to reach me something

Broad, I

out of the cabin.

family,

Broad, and found just sufficient

surprise in store for

Wroxham

for

unsurpassed for prettiness.

is

off the

moving on the

little

and

mention that Mr. Girling

When

he was safe

put the

inside, I '

helm up, and we slipped through the gatway into the Broad. When Wynne came out of the cabin, instead '

saw the wide- stretching Broad, the Broads, for her beauty, size, and depth

of the river banks, he

the Queen of

of water combined.

" This river.

is lovely.

What

a match

?

I

had no idea that we had

a string of fishing boats

1

left

the

Are they having

"

Angling matches are very favourite amuse-

"Yes.

ments here, and the prizes are sometimes valuable, and sometimes very miscellaneous in their nature. They are very sociable, well-conducted gatherings,

and I think

the Norfolk anglers would meet with old fzaak's approbation, as being honest and peaceable men."

"

They

always so " Not

all

look very happy.

many

quite.

But,

tell

me, are there

yachts here as there are to-day

The

fact

is,

there

is

?

"

a regatta of the

Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club here to-morrow, and is

always a genuine water

frolic.

This

is

it

a favourite


WROXHAM.

A OLE TO

place at

all

times

;

Wroxham

from

Wroxham by

We

only seven miles by

is

from Norwich, and the Broad

67

is

rail

only a mile and a half

water."

drifted across to the other side of the

there dropped our anchor,

and made

all

Broad, and

snug.

was a lovely evening, and yacht after yacht came upon the Broad, and anchored anchoring, by the way, meaning, in the majority of cases, dropping some pigs It

;

of ballast overboard, at the end of a rope, for the is

mud

so soft that an ordinary anchor would drag through

it.

We

the

moon shone

late as

visited our friends

it

was,

we

did not turn in for a long time, but

floated about in the boat, until

it

was very

on various yachts, and then

so brightly out of a cloudless sky, that,

and yarned about old times,

late indeed.

HORNING FEEKT.


CHAPTEB VL

WROXHAM BROAD. HAD

scarcely closed

my

eyes, it

me, ere I was awakened by

seemed

to

Wynne moving

about.

"

What "I am

and

I'll

are

you up

to ?

"

I cried.

going to paternoster for perch,

take the casting-net to get some small

fry."

"Oh, dearl why morning

?

can't

you wait

until

the

"

It is four o'clock and broad daylight." " Then and don't come back until breakfast time.'' go,

4'

It is

And

I

think

morning.

drew the curtains over the windows, and tried was quite dark, and to get to sleep again.

to

it

On awaking I heard the sound of a piano. My first thought was, "Where am I?" I found that I was on the boat, sure enough, and

was no more

it

was seven

o'clock.

There

sleep for me, for a wherry, fitted up as a was lying near, and her crew had not only got a yacht,


C9

WROXHAM BROAD. piano on board, but played upon the morning. in this

way

large party

It is

it

at seven o'clock in

an excellent plan to rig up a wherry good accommodation for a

for a cruise, as is

and the

secured,

can be well

interior

divided into several sleeping-rooms.

The presence

of

and up so early, was rather a row away for one's dip. Up to

ladies aboard the wherry,

nuisance, as one

had

to

eight o'clock, the Broad

who can

is

generally sacred to the men,

take their plunge overboard with safety.

Presently Wynne came back. " Well, what have you caught " Two about five

?

"

pounds each, and three perch, have got some minnows

jack,

about a pound each.

If I could

I should have done better, but the roach I got were too

large for paternostering, into a row, too.

and not

lively

found a bow net set among the

I

weeds, and there were three large tench in it

up

to look at

considerably at talkative,

it, its

first

I got

enough.

;

As

it.

I took

owner appeared, and slanged me but when he cooled down, he got

and told me that the reaches of the

river

by

Salhouse and Hoveton Broads are the best for pike, but that all the

way down

to

Horning Ferry

is

good.

the way, I saw a lot of boats fishing on the Broad

when they saw

I set out, and they went on to the river

me. "

The Broad

No

;

a tax of

is

not preserved,

is it ?

By

when

"

but one of the owners, Mr. Chamberlin, levies 2s.

Gd.

on fishermen, and as

it

goes to the

Norfolk and Norwich Hospital, one ought

to

pay

it-


70

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

willingly.

Broad

in

Poor men can't pay it, so they fish on the early morning, and then leave for the

the

They walk here from Norwich,

river.

overnight,

and

begin to fish before daylight, and as they can get a boat at

Wroxhain

for a shilling a day,

it is

not an expensive

pastime for them."

"I saw some notice boards at Salhouse, but there was so much on them, and the letters were so small, that I could not read them, but I suppose they were

meant "

warn people

to

Yes, there

is

off."

unfortunately too great a disposition

amongst owners to try and close the Broads against the fishing public, and even to interfere with the old navigation rights, but there are praiseworthy exceptions,

and here comes one, the owner

of this

end of

Wroxham

Broad." This

[Note.

now

is left

as first written, but

to say that since the death of

it is

necessary

Mr. Chamberlin, the

owners of the Broad have obtained a decision in the Superior Courts that the public have no right to fish on

Wroxham

Broad, and although the navigation question

has not been raised, the owners claim the Broad to be private property.

At the same time they courteously of closing the Broad to the

disclaim any intention

reasonable enjoyment of the public.

Broad

is

moor

there at night, on account,

Sailing

on the

freely permitted, but yachts are not allowed to it

is

said, of the un-

avoidable refuse floating against the private pleasure


71

WROXHAM BROAD.

Persons also are not allowed

grounds of the owners. to land.

be hoped that the good behaviour of

It is to

the public will remove

all

Broad

idea of closing the

to

the public, which would be nothing short of a calamity.

The

on

regattas

Broad which used

this

sources of amusement, have been quite partly

on account of the

to

be such

discontinued,

difficulty in getting the present

racing craft up the North Biver, and partly through the reluctance of yacht owners to ask the favour of sailing

where they formerly supposed they had a right.] As the sun rose higher, so it grew hotter in too great a ratio,

and the breeze was too

much

light to afford it

was a won-

derfully pretty sight, such as could be seen

on no other

English inland water, save Windermere

the yachts,

excitement in the

too, are

way

much

very

of racing.

like the

Still,

:

Windermere yachts, but The follow-

carry even more canvas than the latter do.

ing are the dimensions of a 10-tonner of that time length on keel, 25 feet

;

over

all,

34

Ordinary canvas would be, mainsail

28

feet 6 inches

leech, 23

feet

;

foot,

;

36

foot,

topsail yard of

23

feet.

are largely increased.

35

feet,

feet

;

and

and

feet

;

luff,

beam, 10 23

leech,

luff,

48

feet

;

42 feet feet,

:

feet.

head, ;

jib,

with a

For racing, these dimensions For fast sailing and quick turn-

ing to windward, these boats are justly celebrated, but the Broads are so rapidly growing shallower, that their

draught, about five

them.

A much

feet, closes

more

many

of the

Broads

to

sensible type of a large boat for


72

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

pure comfort in cruising (though not for sport in sailing) one founded on the wherry plan, with a large main-

is

and drawing not more than three feet of water. For such boats under 10 tons, the " Una " type is the sail,

best.

shallow draught would enable

Its

with the

it,

centre-board up, to go anywhere, and penetrate into the

most charming recesses

of this wild country,

deeper yacht can never see.

Its

beam

which the

and

gives safety,

also minimises the inconvenience of -the

centre-board

case in the cabin, and a high booby hatch would give

The one

head-room.

sail

owner has but ordinary

skill

very handy, and

if

her

and energy, he could

sail

is

her alone, and so dispense with the expense of keeping a man. is

"Without this expense, yachting in these waters

a reasonable and very cheap amusement.

marks are

who have what

for the benefit of the great

me

written to

facilities

for

These

re-

of people

at one time or another, to

know

economical boat- sailing and living

exist in these waters.

handling by a

number

skilled

For

fast

sailing

and ease

of

person, the present improved type

of sloop or cutter cannot be surpassed

on any waters.

Well, 10-tonners and 4-tonners, open cutter-rigged sailing-boats of a very fast type, canoes with battened sails,

luggers and boats,

and wherries

and steam launches puffed

sailed to

noisily about,

and

fro,

and marred

the beauty of the scene, as well as upset the glasses

and

dishes of breakfast or luncheon by the swell which they caused.

The people paid very

little

attention to the


73

WROXHAM BROAD.

this great racing, but set themselves heartily to enjoy

water picnic.

Wynne went woodland

ashore,

and

with glimpses of

vistas,

some pretty the Broad, and the

discovered

between leafy boughs of oaks, and under glancing of Scotch firs. Also, he discovered that at lofty arms sails

the farm at the lower end of the Broad, Mrs. Newman's,

rooms

there were

had taken them, kept the

Of

to let,

and that an

artist friend of his

so there he stayed for a long time,

jolly, in spite of

vigorous hails for

the adventurous journeys of yachts

Wroxham

and

it.

up

to divers

Regattas, of the exploits of elated yachtsmen,

and the mishaps of careless ones, of the fun and merriment attendant on these annual gatherings, the writer At present, we must has written in another place. hurry on.

In the evening we

sailed, or rather

These reaches of the

Bridge.

The

extreme.

river

quanted, up to the

were lovely in the

and brimming river reflected the and groups of trees, while acres of

clear

marginal flowers

marsh shone with the yellow iris flowers. But, alas the woods and the sloping fields kept off the wind, and I

made one wish

that the upper entrance to the

Broad

were widened and made navigable.

We

came

to the Bridge at last,

and moored

to the

bank, watching the homeward-bound holiday makers arrive

in

number

yachts,

and

boats,

of the latter having

and wherries; a goodly

numerous passengers. F


RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

74

Wroxliain has two decent inns, where good boats and bait

may

be obtained

Jimpson's (the "King's Head"), largest, but both com-

and Whittaker's, the former the fortable.

UELAUG1I CHURCH.


CHAPTER VIL WROX 11 AM

HE

TO COLTISH ALL.

bridge at

WroxLam

The mast,

and low.

is

very narrow

of course,

had

to

be lowered, and the yacht quanted under the road

and railway bridges.

A wherry

passing under raised her rnast too soon,

and damaged the ornamental vane, which consisted of the inevitable figure of a Welsh girl with a high hat and holding a bunch of leeks. " There, I must have a new Welsh girl," said the

wherryman. "

Why

is

such an emblem chosen in Norfolk, of

"

places ? asked " Some

thirty years ago there

after the

famous Jenny Morgan of

such a vane.

was a wherry named the song, and she had

It took the fancy of

such an extent that they

all

adopted

the it

wherrymen

river here is very narrow,

to

in the course of

time."

The

all

Wynne.

and Wynne, who


7G

RIVERS AND BROADS OP NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK. " " on the putty twice, before he

steering, put the yacht

could be induced to give up the helm to the man,

know

professed to

The

river.

river

the exact depth of every part of the

makes a very long loop

just above Wroxham.

On

In this loop

some very

said to hold

who

is

to the south,

Belaugh Broad,

large carp, but

it

is

preserved.

the neck of the loop, on a high bank, stands Belaugh

Church, a prominent object for some miles, as you follow the river.

the view from is

it

It is very picturesquely situated,

Close by the church

is characteristic.

a draw-well, with a pent-house over

sketching. of the

which

There

is

and

it,

well worth

a pretty backwater, or old channel

near here, called "Little Switzerland,"

river,

worth rowing up, but unfortunately the owner objects even to artists visiting it, and hence it must be is

considered as sacred ground. It

came on

to

blow very hard, as we finished the

three-mile loop of river, half a mile from

entered

it,

and the

and as the wind was

river narrow,

up under the

made

meat

and ran

where we at once

for our dinner to-morrow, which, being

Sunday, we intended to spend at superior to

most Norfolk

The

Coltishall.

villages,

old houses with rounded gables,

men

the mainsail,

jib alone, to Coltishall,

a rush for the butcher's, just in time to secure a

piece of

is

fair,

we lowered

where we

the corners sharp,

is

village

and contains some

and a

great business of the place

The

fine church.

malting, and

many

labour as maltsters in winter and boat-builders in


WROXHAM TO COLTISHALL.

DYKE NEAR OOLIUBAU*

summer, so that summer at Coltishall,

when

one at a reasonable

The

is

the time to get a boat built

either Allen or Collins will build

you

rate.

good in this portion of the river, and there are great numbers of jack here, although they run rather small. In the spawning season, the bream fishing is very

head up here in large numbers, and as there season in Norfolk,

The

first

many

anglers follow

lock on this river

is

is

no

close

them up.

just above the

village,

and on the bye- stream stands Horstead

mill, a very fine

specimen of the Norfolk water-mill.

It

stands

upon


78

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

and the stream runs under

arches,

course, being undershot.

It

from below, and, in

picture, seen

it,

the wheels, of

makes a very fact, if

effective

you row your

jolly up the left-hand stream, as you go up, you will see

very

many

lovely bits worth the painter's attention.

I

have photographed some of them, as I can't sketch, but photographs cannot depict the colour. It is in the soft living light

beauty

lies,

of colour,

The

of these

Norfolk scenes

that

their

chief

but they cannot be depicted without the aid

and only imperfectly then.

and yachts drawAylsham, some eleven

river is navigable for wherries

ing but

little

miles further

to

water, right up ;

but there are two more locks before

reaching Aylsham. Coltishall is accessible

the next station to able there.

by

rail

Wroxham, and

The jack

fishing

is

from Norwich, being lodgings are obtain-

very good

all

the way.

.

:

LUDH/Uf BRIDOK.

i




CHAPTER

VIII.

UP THE ANT> TO BARTON AND STALHAM. |

IYNNE had

undertaken

steward, and so

far

the

office

we had

of

fared

sumptuously, but as we were tidying up on

the fact

Monday morning,

became apparent that the provision lockers were nearly empty.

"The

fact is,"

he

"I thought there would

said,

be a better chance of buying things, as we went along,

than there appears to be, for with the exception of butter

and eggs, we might as well be on the shall

we do

?

prairies.

Now, provisioning is a very perplexing ticularly when it is for several days, and as at

Norwich made-up hampers of provisions

parties could be obtained,

sent to us at

What

"

Wroxharn

with a light but

fair

we telegraphed

station,

wind.

behind, and caught several

thing, parI

knew

for

and departed

We

trailed

that

for fishing-

one to be in hope,

a pike-bait

jack, and two or three good


82

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

We

perch.

were three hours getting to Wroxham, and

while the mast was being lowered, station to

meet a

train then

coming

Wynne went to the He returned in

in.

hamper of good things, and our difficulty end. Once we spent a Sunday at Wroxham,

glee with a

was

at

with nothing procurable to eat but biscuits, and once, at Barton,

we were

obliged to fish for our meals.

Meat

so soon goes bad on board a boat, and one does not

A

always care for tinned things.

good wrinkle

is

to

have a bottle containing a strong solution of permanganate of potash on board, and then a few drops placed in a pint of \\ater will

make a most

liquid, with which you

and wash out the

As

may

efficient

safely sprinkle the meat,

lockers.

the day advanced, the breeze got up,

o'clock

we were

deodorising

at the

mouth

and by two

of the river Ant, ten miles

from Wroxham.

As we turned up

man "

narrow and shallow waters, our

said,

We

shan't get very far up this river,

drawing so

"

its

much water

No, but we can get

have arranged

We

for

sir,

with a craft

as this." to

Ludham

an old lateener

Bridge, and there I

to be waiting for us."

touched the ground several times before we got to

the bridge, about a mile up, thus showing that a very fine

Broad

is

practically closed to the possessor of a

large yacht of the usual type.

the bridge in charge of the

Wo

left

man, and

the yacht below

Wynne and

I


WOODLAND POOL

IBBTEAD.



UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. transferred ourselves

on board a

six- ton lateener,

broad and very shallow, with bluff bows years old,

if

;

83 very

a boat sixty

a day, only drawing about two feet of water.

She had an enormous lateen

foresail,

and a mizen, and

she subsequently formed a picturesque object in Wynne's

A wherry was coming through the low and narrow bridge, and, as the water was high, she had sketches.

some

difficulty in

The wind was

doing

it.

fair for

a large portion of the way, and

we bowled along very fast. Where it was ahead, owing to a bend in the river, there was no room to tack, and one of us would jump ashore with a

Ant

The

is

line,

just like a canal, except that it

fishing in

and tow.

The

has no tow-path.

remarkably good, particularly at Irstead shoals, where there is a stretch of water about it

is

half a mile long, with an even depth of four to five feet,

and a

firm, level, pebbly bottom, a curiosity in this land

boggy streams. This is an excellent spot for perch and pike. It is marked by the presence of a church on the western bank, and is one of the few places on these

of

waters where a person safety or comfort.

who cannot swim can bathe with

The muddy bottom,

of course, pro-

As you approach the entrance to Barton hibits wading. Broad, the bottom becomes muddy again, and the Broad itself is full of

the water

is

mud;

there being large "hills" where

not more than two feet deep.

gable channels wind between these out by posts.

The Broad

is

hills,

The

navi-

and are marked

a mile long, and very pretty,


RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

84

and the entrance

mouth

and a half miles from the

to it is four

of the Ant.

In our light-draught lateener, we

ignored the channels, and sped about

all

over, often,

however, finding our speed diminished, as the keel cut through the soft mud, and turned up yellow volumes of

mud and

portions of Broads, the

colour, is

It is a curious fact that in

behind.

and

mud

is

some Broads

of a light yellow

in other portions black.

As

the result of decayed vegetation, this

all this

mud

difference is

singular.

There

is

an

island in the Broad, where a

artificial

We sailed picnic party were then enjoying themselves. away into the long bight which leads towards Neatishead, where the bowery woods, fringing the water, spoke of welcome shade, but we were brought to a stop by the

mud, and had some very lovely

difficulty in getting back.

Broad, we found we had much

On

this

better stick to

the channels, which were wide enough, and explore the

The

shallows in the jolly.

good.

I do not think

fishing here is remarkably

any objection is made to angling must be obtained for

for coarse fish, but permission

The Broad, though the water is fresh, is affected by the rise and fall of the tide. Going on one I in missed the the channel, and ran so dark, night

pike fishing.

hard on

was

"

hill," that in

at its height,

means ere

to a

of lines

we could

we had

and

float

the morning

to lay the

when

yacht on her

the tide side

by

tackles to the nearest channel posts

her

off.

The Broad

is

easy of access,




UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM.

87

Stalham railway station, and hiring boats at Stalham, whence a row of about two miles will bring

by going you on

to

to the Broad.

At the north end of the Broad, a wide dyke northwards. the Broad

;

This divides into two about a mile from the left-hand one leads to

Walsham, becoming a

We

leads

Dilham and North

canal, with locks

and water-mills.

took the right-hand one, and on coming to another

sub-division, took the left-hand one, the right leading to

a grown-up piece of water,

The course we chose

known

as Button

Broad.

led us over Stalham Broad, which,

though marked on maps as a piece of open water, now only consists of a tract of marsh, with a dyke kept open

end of this dyke. Here " " Maid's there are two good inns, the Swan," and the

through

it.

Stalham

is

at the

Head," and there are plenty of good boats for hire at the waterside. Stalham has a station on the Yarmouth

and North Norfolk Railway, and as a

fishing station is

considered very good.

We

caught a pike in the dyke, at luncheon time (ours as his), and a big fellow of about fourteen

as well

pounds in weight was said a large

fish strike at

at our spinning-bait.

to

haunt the

spot.

We

saw

some roach, but he would not look Within sight of the dyke end is a

tumble- down house, with a thatched roof, b ,</ken-backed, ;

and altogether so jumbled and anciePviooking, that makes a capital subject for a sketch-.

it

In the afternoon we sailed quietly back to the cutter,


88

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

and took both boats back

to the Bure,

and down

it

to

Abbey, which we reached by moonlight. had taken a great fancy to the lateener, which

St. Benet's

Wynne

had been lent to me by a friend, and as we wished to explore the Broads about Hickling, all too shallow for the cutter, we decided to take both yachts up the Thurne to

Heigham

we took

Bridges, and leave the cutter there, while

the lateener up on the wide, wild waters above

The next morning we devoted

the bridge. ing, at the

mouth

casting-net.

We

of the

to pike fish-

Thurne, getting our bait with a

got up very early, and were moored in

a convenient spot, and

all

rigged up ready to start before

the mist had risen off the water.

I do not intend to go

into the details of our sport, which

was not out

of the

way, but by one o'clock we got six pike, from four to ten pounds in weight, and put back four under- sized fish. This was with

live bait,

without moving more than one

hundred yards from the same

spot.






CHAPTER IX

WO MACK BROAD. tired of fishing,

we had

a swim, and

then dinner; and, late in the afternoon,

we

hoisted

sail,

and the man in the

I

to a stiff breeze,

cutter,

and I hi the

Wynne

lateener.

They ran away from me so quickly, however, that could not stop them at the entrance to Womack* Broad,

had intended, and was obliged to go in chase of them up to Heigham Bridges. The round, bluff bows

as I

of

my

old lateener, designed to support the heavy mast,

which raked forward over them, made such a hollow in the water,

and raised such a big wave, that

was impossible. As sank so that it seemed as fast

not

uncommon with

breeze.

It

was

if

she must run under, a fate

lateeners,

more than

Swandjke.

before a

stiff

combined with

twice the length of the boat

* Sometimes called Wannick, or tion of

when running

this peculiarity of theirs,

the large foreyard,

sailing very

was, the nose of the boat

it

Wandjke,

said to be a corrup-


92

RIVERS AND BROADS OP NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

which caused the

windward, however, they are easily

For turning to uncommonly handy, and

rig to fall into disuse.

managed single-handed.

The Thurne

is

a fairly

wide stream, with deep water, so that you can tack close

up to the banks. It is four miles from the mouth of the Thurne to Heigham Bridges, and the cutter was there ten minutes hefore me.

DBAINAGE MILL

KITES THTTBNB.

" I say, Wynne, I wanted you to stop at that dyke, half is

way

up, but I could not

a charming

little

Broad

make you hear me.

there, called

Womack

There Broad,

and a picture ready composed, so bring your paint-box, and we will beat back in the lateen."

We reached the dyke in half an hour, tacking in that narrow channel with great celerity. 11 This boat turns more quickly than the cutter, I think

;

at all events, there is less trouble in

managing




WOMACK BROAD. her," said

bowed

"

Wynne.

lugger, with

Do you know

95 that I think a fine-

main and mizen

would be a

rig,

handy boat for these waters." " Some of the old lateeners have been turned into luggers,

and

sail

very well.

Here

is

the dyke, nearly a

mile long, and fringed with ferns and flowers, reeds and bulrushes, iris and forget-me-nots." " Here conies a

wherry.

is

no room "

What

we do

shall

There

?

to pass."

We

must go take the mast out

windward

to

Here

of us.

of her, or her sail will is

made wide

a place

to

admit of wherries passing, and we can hold on here There, that was a tight

until she gets by.

The boat ward gaffs

sailor

must be very

of the wherries in

and

sails take

fit."

careful to keep to wind-

narrow waters, as

their

up a great deal of room, and

catch your mast, they

may

carry

it

huge

if

they

away, or capsize you.

more important not to get across the bows of a wherry, as she would get the best of the encounter, It is still

and a small yacht very much the worst often that accidents

of

happen through any

It is

not

collision,

but

it.

occasionally the crew of a row-boat get bewildered and

row across the bows of pleasure

is

of a wherry, sailing fast,

turned into mourning.

A

and a day

special Provi-

dence seems to watch over amateur boat-sailors, and is

marvellous to see

how

it

they come unharmed out of

predicaments which seem most serious. The wherries are sailed remarkably well, and you can generally rely


90

RIVERS AND BROADS OF

on

their carefulness, so that

NOUFOL.fi.

AND SUFFOLK.

you may

sail

should be remembered, the wherry's sailing of business,

therefore,

only; there

and the yachtsman's

is

well to give

it is

your yacht

One thing

rigidly according to the rule of the road.

is

a matter

a matter of pleasure

way

to a wherry, if

any doubt on the point, and not hamper her

is

unnecessarily.

The dyke we were then

sailing

down

Womack

long, leading westward to

once a nice sheet of water, but

is

is

about a mile

Broad, which was

very rapidly growing

up, each year seeing an accretion to the growth of spongy

marsh, and an additional layer of mud on the bottom. At present, the channel is navigable for wherries, which

Ludham

ply to

On

village, at the further

the right-hand side, as

end of

we entered

it.

the Broad,

is

a

an old-world picture a boat-builder's shed, large and old, and of picturesque construction, stands on the bit of

:

margin, amid low bushes and under the shade of mighty trees.

Beneath

a large boat, of an age and type

it is

unknown, and a wherry hind the boat-house

is

sleepily awaiting repair.

Be-

a barn, whose high- thatched roof

shaded by the branches of a cherry tree. By the side of the boat-shed is a dyke, where sundry small craft are

is

ensconced.

Behind

all,

and peeping out of a garden run and scattered about,

wild, are low, thatched cottages,

among

the

"knees"

tall

grasses,

are

trunks of trees, curved

of oak, suitable for boat-building,

up boats and punts.

On

the

still

and broken-

water in front

is


WOMACX BROAD. moored a

floating eel-fisher's hut,

sense of the repose of the past.

has

left its

emblems

and

97

around

is

the

The former busy

life

all

resting in acquiescence with the fate

which contracts the sphere of their usefulness, day by day, and year by year, as the vegetation slowly, but

That dense growth of reeds which would not bear the weight

surely, drives out the water. lies

upon a skim of soil and now undulates with the movement

of a dog,

water, but in three years' time of a

may

bear the weight

man.

An

old

the artists take

it

of the

man who

lives

near there, grumbles because

come and paint

his cottage

and broad, and

away pounds' worth of sketches, and never think of

sending him a picture in acknowledgment. It

was a

painted,

and

lotos lake to us that afternoon.

I fished,

and we sailed back

to

Wynne Heigharn

Bridges by moonlight.

Womack Broad charts, but those

should not pass

it

is

not shown upon some maps and

who

are susceptible to a lovely scene

by.

OUDGEOX.


CHAPTEE

X.

IIICKLING BROAD.

EIGHAM

Bridge

is

much room

not little

above

it

\vhich the Eastern

a small stone one, with to get through,

and a

the railway bridge, over

is

and Midlands Kail way runs,

with a station not

Near the station is

is

far off Potter Heigham. " the " Falgate Inn, where there

A

comfortable accommodation.

inn by

way

and on

of a sign,

its

gate hangs over the

bars

is

inscribed the

following

"This gate hang high But hinder none. Refresh and pay

And

The omission verb

is

of the

truly

middle classes.

s

travel on."

in the third person singular of the

and common even among the At the bridge is the " Waterman's Arms,"

Norfolk,

where one or two bedrooms, and a small parlour, scrupulously clean, are obtainable. in a sort of

ail

Just by the bridge,

wooden " Peggoty's Hut,"

lives Applegate,




99

HiCKLING BROAD.

who has good round

as

is

near

jack

and rowing,

good the

as

it

The

can be, and I never

bridge,

within

while,

stowed

for hire,

remarkably neat boat-house.

in a

away

boats, sailing

fishing all

get a

fail to

miles

four

lie

Hiclding and Somerton Broads, Heigham Sounds, and For myself, I should prefer this as a Horsey Mere. fishing

and boating

wildness of the

The

tide

plexed

way

station, to

any

other, because of the

district.

and I caught on and the looking in a perbridge, Wynne standing river

at

ebbs and flows strongly;

at the rate the perfectly fresh water of the

was running up stream. The exit of these waters Yarmouth was twenty miles away, by water;

Heigham Bridge from the

only between four and

is

running eastward, towards the daily rise

by the "

and

fall,

salt tide,

"

sea,

and the

lakes,

which

though only a few inches, actuated

" so near,

and yet so

far."

Verily, this is a strange country," said

not, I should think, visit

miles

five

and the water was now

sea, in a direct line,

beyond the

Wynne,

possibility of a

" and

sudden

from the sea." No, those light-coloured mounds in the distance are

the sea- banks, of sand, only held together by scanty

marram

We

grasses.

We

will

pay them a closer

visit."

got the lateener through the bridges, taking

cient things for a night's absence,

the Thurne, which seems

and take that

of the "

now to

and

lose its

sailed

name

Hundred Stream."

suffi-

away up

as a river,

About half a

H


100

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

mile above the railway bridge

is

the

mouth

of Kendal, or

Candler's, Dyke, a narrow winding stream, up which

we

turned, soon to find ourselves bordered by tall reeds on

and then

either hand,

water and reeds so

This

through a wilderness of

sailing

that they bounded our view.

tall

Heigham Sounds, now

is

a capital place for wild fowl attain a very large size,

;

greatly overgrown,

also for rudd,

and go in immense

is

Hickling, Horsey, and

nominally preserved, but

At

not seem to be interfered with. channel and the dykes one likes,

fair anglers

all events, in

do the

pretty well do as one

may

and no attempt has ever been made

exclusive right to

In the

Kendal Dyke, I have caught a

good number of pike. The fishing on all these Broads the Sounds

Out

shoals.

of the channel the water is extremely shallow.

channel, particularly in

and

which here

to set

up an

I note that a Fishery

the rivers.

Preservation Society has been formed to abolish illegal netting,

and

to overlook this

auspices of this

it is

district,

and under the

probable that riparian owners will

not object to anglers taking a share of the superabundant fish out of the

advisedly,

assure

me

number

and

Broads. will

that they

I call the fish superabundant

adhere to the term until anglers can

know what

of fish they catch,

away on the bank,

after

to

do (usefully) with the

and cease from throwing them ascertaining their weight and

number. Well,

we

sailed as close to the

wind as we could

and




103

HICKLING BROAD.

and could just

nothing goes closer than a lateener

lie

the channel through another reedy lake, called Whites-

on to the vast expanse of Hickling Broad, a lake 400 acres in extent, and looking three times as large,

lea,

owing

to the

extreme lowness of

shores, the absence

its

any landmarks, and the great concave sky, which seems to fit close down all around it. A channel across

of

it is

marked by

sailed over to

posts,

which we

The width

it.

left to

Broad

it

is

is

twenty yards wide, and

so shallow that

we

is

you will have no guide. At

all

the rest of the

of the channel

determine by experiment, as there

a guess,

starboard, as

you might wade over it, and bottom almost everywhere.

find a hard, yellow, gravel

Trusting in our two-feet draught, thither,

and

felt

we

sailed hither

and

our way checked, as the keel cut through

masses of weed, and then the bound forward, as the boat entered a part clear of weeds.

weed have

These bunches of

lately increased greatly in Hickling Broad,

which used to be comparatively

free

from them, and the

promontories of reeds are pushing themselves further

and further

into the lake,

ting shallower. to

Still,

be able to stand a

We side

sailed

of the

station,

down

and the bays between are

the lake

little

on the

line

get-

large enough, as yet,

filching from.

to Catfield staithe,

Broad, and not

to Hickling staithe,

is

on the western

from Catfield railway Then we went already alluded to. at the north end, where there is an

" Pleasure inn, the Boat,"

far

and walked into the

post letters, and to receive some.

village to


104

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

Boats of a rough kind can be obtained here for fishing

They are long, narrow, and flat-bottomed, purposes. and the usual method of propulsion is by "setting." The setter sits in the extreme stern, and pushes the boat along with a light pole, at a great often setting races at local regattas,

rate.

There are

and great fun they

are.

The number

of broken-up lateeners

on the shores of

the Broad attest the decay of large pleasure-boat sailing

on these remote waters, but the smaller

class of centre-

HICZLINO 8TAITHE.

board boats are coming into favour, and

more

are, perhaps,

suitable.

After lunch

we had

to reef the great foresail,

which

was not an easy operation, as the reef was taken in along the yard, and we had to go into the jolly boat to get to


105

HICKLING BROAD. *

the end of is

species

that

him

is, it

The

it.

very fond slipped

jolly boat of,

committed a joke

itg

under similar circumstances;

away from under one

of us,

and

left

clinging to the yard, with his legs in the water.

I shall never forget three days I spent, on Whiteslea

and Heigham Sound, for the fishing and December with a friend. I stayed in the on the small island in Whiteslea.

and two men

we were

that I

There was a

ourselves in the lonely house, where the

slept

floor,

and the beds were so

completely clothed in

bitter north-easter

though I

I never

am

felt

my

oilies.

sweeping over the dry

reeds under a leaden sky, and the sport slowest.

cottage

had two boats

to attend to us during the day, but at night

left to

water oozed through the

damp

We

fowling, one little

was

of the

the cold so much, accustomed

to winter pike-fishing.

illETHAM BROAD.


CHAPTER

XI.

HORSEY MERE AND SOMERTON BROAD.

T was

work

exhilarating

Hickling Broad, and

sailing

we were very

to leave its wind-swept

waters.

over loth

We

had a rare run back along the channel, and over "Whiteslea, and then turned sharp to the

left,

up the Old Meadow

dyke leading to Horsey Mere. is

a mile long, and of

fair

This dyke

depth, but so

narrow that people fishing on the banks had to hold

up

their rods as

swept the tops of the reeds.

we

passed, while our sail

Then we shot

into

Horsey

Mere, a lake of 130 acres in extent, with a small island in the middle.

It

was very

clear,

and very shallow, the

channel for wherries lying along the west side of Palling dyke, which leads north-westward

miles until

it

The white

it,

into

for several

reaches almost to the sea. sand-hills

on the coast were plainly

and the thunder of the surf was

visible,

audible, as the sea

was


HORSEY MERE AND SOMERTON BROAD.

We

but a mile and a half away.

one

else does

who

the east end of too

to

rough

it,

what nearly every

did

in a yacht

visits

Horsey and walked to the

;

landed at

coast, but

These sand-hills

bathe.

107

it

was

form a very

curious barrier between the salt and fresh water.

They and high, and make one wonder by what force wind and waves they attained their present shape and

are steep of

dimensions, in so

flat

a country, and

why

the like forces

do not dissipate them over the plain. Breaches have been made in them by the sea, from time to time,

when a very high

notably in the winter of 1791,

made

several

gaps, and threatened

to

tide

overwhelm the

marshes inland. " I like this Mere as well as any of the Broads," said

Wynne, when we returned and

still

lonely,

and

its

to the yacht.

quiet

is

roar and unrest of the sea close by.

here "

?

"It

is

so very

in such contrast to the Is the fishing free

"

supposed to be preserved, though I don't suppose anyone will object to our catching a pike for

No,

supper,

it

is

if

you wish.

There are no pike

like those in

Horsey, the proverb says."

But the wind had

fallen as suddenly as it arose,

and

the glamour of a fiery sunset shone over the silent mere.

An

occasional cry of coot, or duck, or splash of fish, and

the distant sound of the sea, but emphasized the stillness

around

us.

as the dusk

We

sat

on the cabin

came slowly

on,

roof,

and talked

lazily,

and our voices were low, in

unison with the evening hush.


108

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

" I do not " that wonder," said Wynne, you are so fond of these waters. An evening like this, in such

watery solitude, makes a strong impression upon one."

Horsey Mere

is

There

only accessible by water.

Martham

railway station

about four miles

off,

is

a

but

if

you walked from there you could get no sight of the Broad without a boat, and boats are not procurable. "

What

Wynne,

as

these

are

we

lay

cushions

down

with

stuffed

?

"

asked

for the night.

"Horse-hair," I expect;

"but then age has made

them hard and crabbed." "

Well, I think that

the

sleeping

accommodation

might be vastly improved in your Norfolk boats geneCanvas cots or hammocks, air beds and pillows, rally. would all be better than the thin cushions there are in the cutter.

needles

And

all

I sha'n't sleep to-night, for I

over

me

already,"

in five minutes he

was snoring

I

ou a deal plank, or even on an oak one, and nights on the Broads.

We

woke very

have pins and

early in the morning,

One could after a

sleep

few days

and found that

a brisk breeze had sprung up, and that the lateener had

dragged her moorings and drifted into the reeds.

She

had taken no harm, for, short of being run down by a wherry, there are no dangers of shipwreck on the Broads,

and you might there

is

drift

about unmoored, for

all

the hurt

likely to accrue.

After a hurried breakfast

we hoisted

the foresail, and




Ill

HORSEY MERE AND SOMERTON BROAD. tore

down

we sped

the dyke into

Heigbam Sounds,

across which

throwing the shallow water into waves,

fast,

which shook the reeds mightily. When we emerged from Kendal dyke into the main stream, we turned to the

and in

left,

than a mile reached Martham Ferry,

less

which was stretched across the were passing across. is

kept in a recess

on either

no one

is

to tend

it,

and

if

it

it

against

required.

and

is

to be

It is a

won-

not regarded

who run

their

too often at night, or when,

One

with the wind astern, they are unable to stop.

wherryman, wherry go

at

exasperated

with

it

all

half a gale, but only

beyond

her force

We

to

when running

smashed the bows it,

fro until the

and then struck the

river,

and

it

dyke,

is

raft

for

it

is

heavily

This

sail in

a hurry,

with great force before

jammed

it

side of the ferry,

it

could

diagonally across the

was half an hour before

At the other

of his vessel, not

wagons had passed, but

a wherry coming up had to lower her

be drawn away.

his

before

withstand such experiments.

and

sailed to

let

endurance,

the ferry a bit or injuring

moving bound with iron

on

some one

until

across.

it

thing to look at,

full tilt

floated

happens

with friendly eyes by the wherrymen, wherries

which

and

when

must wait

appears on the other side to get

clumsy

raft,

side of the river,

the other side, a wayfarer

derfully

some wagons

a large

is

reaching from hank to bank

across,

There

river while

This ferry

it

could be moved.

and at the mouth of a

a capital place for pike and large

eels,

and I


112

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

can conceive of no better-looking pike place than the mile of stream between here and Somerton or Martham

The water

Broad.

is

deep and clear, with a stratum of

leaves, about four feet below the surface, and here

lily

and there

lilies

on the

As we

surface.

glassy surface, not ruffled by the

sailed over its

on

crossing wind,

account of the high reeds and grasses, we could see thousands of fish of all sizes darting away beneath us ;

and

at the

two,

is

end of the main dyke, where

it

divides into

a deep, clear pool, with a hard, gravelly bottom,

where there are any quantity of perch and large roach. It is the beau-ideal of a spot for bottom-fishing,

"fine and far off" must you deep,

is

Martham

passing clear.

It

fish, for the water, is

easily

but

though from

accessible

railway station, and preferably from Potter

Heigharn, where, too, you could procure a boat.

The right-hand dyke

leads to

Somerton Broad, another

reed-surrounded lake, possessing no particular

merit.

From Martham

ferry we walked up a steep road to the around a broad green, and had we time we would have ascended the tower of the church, which

village, lying

is

a conspicuous object for miles, and from which a

splendid view of sea and lake

is

attainable.

In the church we noted a tablet to one Burraway,

whose history is told more than referred to

there,

but

is

too unpleasant to be

here.

After being so long on board a small vessel, one's legs

become cramped and

unfit for walking,

and the walk

to


113

HORSEY MERE AND SOMERTON BROAD.

Martham and

back, only a couple of miles, quite tired

In us, and we were glad to get back to our little craft. half an hour's time we were passing under Heigham Bridge, and watching our man playing a seven-pound

On

pike in the pool below.

had arranged

for

the bank, by the cutter, he

our inspection a score of bream, from

one pound to three pounds in weight, which he and another had caught early that morning and the night before.

Before turning our faces again towards Yarmouth,

may

be mentioned that yachts

may

safely be

moored

it

to

the bank anywhere above Acle, care being taken to avoid the obviously shallow parts.

In

many

places you will notice the eel-sets, which are

fixed nets across the river for the purpose of intercepting

the

silver-bellied eels

These nets are only

on their migration to the sea. and there is a man in

set at night,

charge (sheltered in a rough sort of house-boat or hut), to lower the nets

when

craft are passing, so that they

not obstruct the navigation. are caught in these nets,

and

Immense it

do

quantities of eels

has been proved by an

inquiry conducted by the Yare Preservation

Society,

that other fishes are not caught therein, and that the sport of the anglers

is

in

no wise interfered with.


CHAPTER

XII.

BACK TO YARMOUTH. 'T was two o'clock sail

on the

when we

cutter, leaving the lateener in

charge of the owner,

and

it

hoisted a reefed

was three

who had

o'clock

joined us,

when we reached

Acle bridge, having done tho seven miles in the hour, wind and tide with us. at

four, being

raising

much

the mast,

delayed in

We

left

Acle

lowering and

and reached Yarmouth (12

We

so we made a pretty quick " " laid by the for the night, Ale Stores

and were very

careful to have the yacht strongly moored,

miles)

by half-past

passage.

five

for the tide runs fast.

the wherries dropped

;

We

were interested in the way

down out

of the

North River, with

lowered masts, and a chain or weight out over the bows, so as to retard their speed, as they drifted stern steering, of course,

first,

by the pressure of the faster- flowing

tide against the rudder.

We had

intended to drop

down

in a similar way, through the swing bridge just below


BACK TO YARMOUTH. us,

and

to go,

eight miles

;

by

sea, to Lowestoft,

115

a distance of only

but as the wind kept getting up, and

Breydon was white with foam, we put off making up our minds until the morning, for the disproportionate bowsprits and open wells of the river yachts are not very suitable for sea work.

Of course, we

strolled

to the quay- side

upon the

We

by moonlight.

and then returned

pier,

found that

it

was

dead low water, and that the yacht had receded so much below the level of the quay, that no plank within reach

would touch her.

The man was

in the forepeak fast

was a long time before we could wake him, asleep, and then we jumped on to some wherries lying near, and and

it

he brought the jolly to us.

We

woke

at times during the night,

and

felt

the boat

swaying, and heard the wind howling in the rigging to a very pretty tune.

ment, and although wetting

we should

In the morning there was no abateit

was

off

the land,

get at sea,

Breydon, and up the Waveney.

make

is

As the

until the middle of the morning,

and rowed down

to the

we shirked

and decided tide

to

the

go over

would not

we took

the jolly

harbour mouth at Gorleston.

It

interesting to note how, for three miles, the river flows

parallel with the sea, and,

mile from

it,

the

dividing land being nothing

substantial than shingle is it, also,

tants of

on the average, under half a

and sand.

more

Deeply interesting

to read of the early struggles of the inhabi-

Yarmouth

to

maintain a navigable waterway.


116

EIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AKD SUFFOLK.

Sometimes the

river

would open a new

and sometimes they made a new one after

time,

the river

wearing away

mouth got

outlet for itself, for it

silted

and, time

;

up with

of this soft eastern shore.

the

Even now

there is often insufficient water at the bar for deeply-

laden vessels of ordinary

size,

and the entrance

is

par-

ticularly unsafe for sailing vessels to enter unassisted at

certain times.

Picturesque sights abound on the river,

and the quays. Fishing smacks taking their brown nets on board from carts ranged alongside; boats of every form and

and

size

hauled up on the beach

;

vessels building

vessels in dry docks, undergoing repairs

;

;

a regular

covey of smacks, in tow of a powerful steam tug, and

hundreds of similar sights of deep interest to a bitten with the joint love of the water and the turesque.

man pic-


CHAPTER

XIII.

YARMOUTH TO SOMERLEYTON.

N

reaching the yacht, after rowing back

with the

of the flow,

first

we

started

with two reefs down to beat over Breydon, on which the wind against the raised a respectable

tide

for it

having been north-west south-west wind squalls.

Many

times

ings of the well,

awash. " This

is

sea.

There

was a great deal of weight in the wind, was veering towards the south-west,

is

generally full

we had

and the

something

all night,

lee

and a strong of puffs and

the water over the coam-

plankways were always

like fun!

"

gasped Wynne, as he

eased off the jib sheet to a squall, and the salt foam dashed in his face ; " but there won't be much skin left

on

by the time we get to the top of Breydon. These enormous jibs are horrible things to have to work If the yachts had finer bows, they would nofc want

my hands


118

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND

much

nearly so

head- sail, and would go as

fast, if

not

faster."

This was heresy to our man, rig for river boats all his

life,

who had

seen no other

and he and Wynne had a

heated argument on the matter, without either being

much

On

the wiser.

reaching the top of Breydon,

up the Waveney,

we turned

for half a mile, as far as

passing over the dreaded

to the left,

Burgh

Castle,

where a wherry

Burgh flats, and a yacht were both hard aground, waiting for the tide to float them off. The deep water channel is not near the line of posts as one would imagine, but close

We

along the west shore. stick,

and landed

to

No of

and

touched two or three times,

moored alongside a wherry, inspect the ruins on the top of the hill.

but did not

at last

one passing along these waters should miss the ruins

Burgh There

Castle, a

is

Roman

station of great interest.

a very extensive stretch of massive wall, with

and we spent a making sketches of the ruins, and

towers at intervals, and at the corners considerable time in

;

admiring the extensive view.

We

could,

but the next

if

we

five

chose, continue on

up the Waveney,

miles of river are narrow, uninteresting,

and with a heavy run of tide, while at the end is a fixed St. Olave's, where the mast would have to be bridge lowered.

up

to the

So we turned back

mouth

of the

new

into the Yare,

cut at Beedham.

and

sailed

This

ship canal, about three miles long, connecting the

is

a

Yare


H9

YAEMOUTH TO SOMERLEYTON.

The

with the Waveney.

Reedham end

of

wind should be for

and ebbs from the

It is perfectly straight,

it.

or

down

there

and

if

the

is

nothing it, up Now, however, we had a beam wind, But trouble was in along merrily enough. The canal is wide enough, but it is not us. straight

but to tow.

it

and

tide flows

tore

store for

kept "didled" out (" didling," or "dydling," being a Norfolk term for dredging, with scoops at the end of poles,

and

lifting the

mud

billy -boy,

on

to the banks),

and the

In the distance, we saw a large

sides are very shallow.

or topsail smack, from the

Thames, and as we

became only too plain from the rake of approached, her mast, that she was aground in the very middle of the it

channel.

We

got the mainsail

along under the

jib,

alongside of her. sail,

down

directly,

and ran

and then, as we expected, ran aground

A

and stopped in

wherry coming behind lowered her

The smack was laden with

time.

Colmans' Works, and her skipper, instead round by Yarmouth, had tried the short cut by After much shoving and towing we got Lowestoft. rice for Messrs.

of going

past,

and

left

the

smack

patiently waiting the rise of the

tide, or the anival of a tug.

[Since the foregoing was written, the Cut has been

much improved

in depth

by dredging, and

piling the

banks.]

There

is

very good fishing to be had in the cut, and

the banks are sound and dry, which these rivers.

There

is

is

a rare thing on

a lift-bridge at Haddiscoe railway


120

RIVERS AND BROADS OP NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

station,

near the end of the cut, which takes some

time to get opened;

this

and even

matter when

as

fast,

also

a

serious

there

sometimes

some time

not

is

fail

to

is

room

to

since a large yacht

A

you are

come

sailing

about.

They

open the bridge wide enough, and

she passed through, by uplifted bridge.

a great inconvenience,

its

had her mainsail torn as

catching on the corner of the

toll of Is. for

each yacht

is

taken,

and a man holds out a bag on the end of a pole to receive it. The toll for wherries depends in amount

upon whether they have the bridge opened for them or go through with mast lowered, and at night a chain used to be put across to prevent them stealing through unobserved, but the chain was frequently "charged" at full speed,

and broken.

In a quarter of a mile we emerged into the Waveney, and, looking back, rather

handsome

we could

structure.

see St. Olave's

bridge, a

There are a few houses

grouped rather prettily, and a good inn, the "Bell,"

by the Bridge, a quarter of a mile from Haddiscoe station, and about a mile from Fritton Decoy, a favourite

close

lake for fishing, which

We

we

shall afterwards mention.

then passed through a railway swing

bridge,

where the East Suffolk Kail way passes over, and sailed without further

incident

some two miles

further

to

another swing bridge at Somerleyton, where the Lowestoft line

passes over.

rivers to pass

This bridge

when wind and

is

the worst on the

tide are against you, as




123

YARMOUTH TO SOMEBLEYTON.

am

they so frequently are, and I clear of its piles

and

always glad to be well

projections, through

which the

tide

swirls so swiftly.

The reach below the bridge used whole

river for pike, but the greater

to be the best in the

run of

tide in recent

years and the salter water has spoiled the pike for which one has now to go higher up the river.

There

is

west of the

a very good inn at the top of the bank to the " Duke's line, called the Head," and a very

beautiful belt of side of the river,

obtained,

and

woods

skirts the marshes on the east " where some delicious " bits may be

birds, butterflies,

Somerleyton village

owner of the

is

and flowers abound.

well worth

estate has built

some most

a

visit,

be beautiful.

The

hall,

the

years' wear,

occupied by Sir Savile

Grossley, M.P., stands in a sylvan park.

DACE,

for

artistic cottages

and houses, which, with another score of will

fishing,


CHAPTER

XIV.

SOMERLEYTON TO BECCLES,

FllOM

HE

angling in

all this

part of the

Waveney

extremely good, and the bream and

is

roach are of large

much

so

size.

It is

not nearly

frequented as the other rivers or

the upper part of the Waveney, and practically unfished, in obtaining

station

on account of the

boats, there

nearer than

is

difficulty

being no boating-

Oulton Broad,

five

miles

from away. Oulton Broad, half way to Somerleyton, for the takes of Still,

bream there

lately

and number.

The

is

is

it

worth while rowing

have been wonderful, both as river is

to size

broad and deep, and one part

as good as another, provided that

you

select a suffi-

cient depth of water. "VVe

had no time

not stay to

fish, if

first, fishing after

We

to fish,

there

is

and as a matter

of fact I can-

a good breeze blowing

;

sailing

1

lay to at the

mouth

of Oulton dyke, to get our


SOMERLEYTON TO BECCLES. lunch, which

we had put

125

The dyka

off rather too long.

nearly as broad as the river,

and a mile and a half

long, leading to Oulton Broad,

which we intended to

is

visit, after

going up the

Waveney

At the

to Beccles,

junction of the dyke with the river there

an excellent

is

While we lay a brigantine of 100 tons,

fishing spot, with a great depth of water. there, a large two-inasted vessel,

came along the dyke at a good pace, with set, and looked as if she were going to scoop

topsails only all

the water

Her crew

out of the river with her great bluff bows.

were pointing out to us, as we lay on the Waveney, and presently the hail came across the narrow neck of marsh, " " Do we turn up past you to go to Beccles ? " " Yes, sharp to port ; right around 1

The

topsails

came down, and the mainsail went up

with great celerity, and with the aid of her aft canvas,

and the helm hard

over, she

came round

the acute angle

bend with creditable quickness, looking a Goliath on those comparatively narrow waters

of the sharp veritable

As she was now head

to wind,

down came her

canvas,

and half-a-dozen men went ashore with a long line to tow, and tow they did all the way to Beccles, 13 miles, by which time they must have had enough was in sight all day over the marsh. After lunch,

we

sailed

ever

way

some

the wind

She

it.

up the Waveney, having

tack a good portion of the way; tortuous that

of

but the river

is

to

so

of the reaches can be sailed which-

is,

without tacking.


126 "

RIVEKS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

How

remarkably clear the water

is

" 1

remarked

Wynne. "

Yes, those weeds you see are 14 feet at least below It is a river is deep close up to the banks. us,

and the

very pleasant river to sail upon." " And what a lot of small fish there are

The Waveney ought

"Yes.

fishing river in

England,

it is

smacks,

and

to be the best bottom-

and sweet,

so deep, clear,

but the poachers used to harry long, small-meshed nets,

" I

it

it

dreadfully, with their

was even

to get bait for sea-fishing,

trawled up

Suffolk Fisheries Act has stopped all that, or nearly

and the

too,

and a haunt of perch.

Look

all,

There are

river is rapidly recovering itself.

some very large perch in it, and wherever you bank gravelly and free from reeds, the bottom hard

by

but the Norfolk and

see the will be

at those bul-

rushes."

"

What huge

"

Yes, the

and what a quantity

ones,

marshmen sometimes dry

of

them

" 1

the heads, and

rub them up to stuff pillows aud cushions with."

On

the north bank

the tower of which

is

is

the church of

Burgh

St. Peter,

built in gradually-lessening steps,

and presents a very strange, un-English appearance. The sail up to Beccles is a very pleasant one, and pretty bits continually present themselves.

below Beccles there

is

it,

miles

a swing railway bridge, which

tolerably easy to get through, as there

rush of tide through

Two

is

is

not a great

as under the bridges lower down.


127

SOMERLEYTON TO BECCLE9. Beccles church had been a prominent object

the

all

way, and when we arrived at Sayer's Grove, so prettily sylvan a place that

we went

we decided

to stay there the night,

in the useful jolly another mile

to

Beccles

bridge, 23 miles from Yarmouth, until lately a narrow arched stone structure, but now replaced by a wider and

more convenient

Passing through, we skirted the church, a

bridge.

we came below

the town of Beccles, until sight

no one should miss who

Viewed from the a

commanding

river, it

splendid view westward

in the neighbourhood.

is

hill,

in

Landing, we climbed up a

position.

and reached

series of steps

is

stands on the brow of a

the.

churchyard, whence a

obtained, the river winding in

and out through the green marshes towards Bungay. The south doorway of the church is richly ornamented, but the peculiar feature of the church very high and massive Beccles

is

is

that the tower, a

structure, is separate

from

railway accommodation, as a glance at the

show.

It is a

heavy

rates,

cheap

these

it.

with good

a quiet, old-fashioned place,

map

will

place to live in, as there are

no

the letting

of

being defrayed by

valuable marshes belonging to the town.

It is a healthy

and pretty withal, and would, I

think, be a

capital place for retired persons with small

incomes to

little

place,

settle in.

The for

river is navigable for wherries

and small yachts,

about ten miles further up to Bungay, but the navi-

gation

is

rather troublesome, and there are two or three

locks to be passed through.


128

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

It is

worth while to row up the river a few miles to

Shipineadow lock.

The

river all the

with crystal clear water, and the lock

way

is

itself is

very pretty,

quaint and

old-fashioned.

After laying in

some

stores

we returned

to the yacht,

and spent a peaceful evening in the shadow wooded hill, beneath which we were moored.

KIVKH WAVliNKY.

of the


CHAPTER

XV.

OUT/TON BROAD.

N

the night of very

we were awakened by

the sound

heavy rain pattering on the deck

and cabin

roof,

and presently we

dis-

covered that the recent very dry weather

had opened the seams

of the wood,

and

sundry persistent droppings evaded our attempts to escape them.

"

My

nose

is

wearing away with one dreadful

drop." "

Then open your mouth and catch "What's the matter?" "

A

drop went splash into

my

it.

Oh

"

eye

!

We made merry for a time, but presently became a case of " a drop too much," and we despair.

" !

it

clearly

sat

up in

Just as things were getting uncomfortably

wet, the storm passed

off,

and the morning dawned with

a wondrous clearness and brilliance, while the air was full

of the sweet, earthy scents that arise after rain.


130

The

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK. reeds were fresher and greener, and the grasses and

flowers glittered in the sun, like the radiant ripples on

And

the water.

amid the songs of birds and the we bowled along down the a merry pace, and in two hours we had so,

quickened joy of nature, at

Waveney

reached the mouth of Oulton Dyke, the sharp turn into

which necessitated a heavy gibe. A mile and a half of this and Oulton Broad opened out before us. This is the most civilized of all the Broads, and

is always gay with yachts sailing about, and populous with yachts lying at their moorings. It " is of an irregular shape, and in the ham," at bight, or

the north-east end of Also, for

it,

what reason

and worn-out

fishing

the yachts are thickly clustered.

it is

hard

to say,

many

of the old

smacks of Lowestoft are brought

and moored against the bank, where them have sunk, and all are picturesque

into this corner,

very

many

of

in the extreme.

Some

large

sea yachts also use this

bight as a laying-up place for the winter.

The

river

yachts and sailing boats are of every size and

rig,

and a

and out among them is of interest to a nautical At the lower end of the lake is a lock which

paddle in

mind.

gives access for sea-going vessels to is

Lake Lothing, which

a tidal lake, two miles long, ending in Lowestoft

harbour and the

charming

sea.

By

the lock

is

one of the most

hostelries it is possible to conceive.

It

ought

to be called the " Angler's Best," were it not already called the " Hotel." Here there is

Wherry

capital




133

OULTON BROAD.

accommodation

for anglers,

and

boats, bait, &c., are pro-

also another com-

vided at reasonable rates. fortable called the "

There

the "

The railway

is

inn, Commodore," and there are " the landlord two smaller inns, the " Waveney Hotel and of which, George Smith, is an excellent waterman

by,

of the Lake."

Lady

and

now

is

called

Oulton Broad Station, but was

name

formerly Mutford, that being the

The

the east end of the Broad.

for a

and

of the village at

village is very prettily

and

situated between the two lakes,

from the

station is close

is

only two miles

There are lodgings to be had

sea.

there,

combining the attractions of lake, river, Of course, the Broad is

place

has few equals.

sea, it

within easy reach of

Lowestoft, the most attractive

watering-place on the coast of Norfolk and Suffolk.

has a

and

fine pier,

good houses,

cliffs,

It

a capital harbour for

yachts, a harbour for fishing vessels, where the artist will find

much

that

is

and an old part of

picturesque,

the town on the higher ground to the north, which has

many

features of interest.

and bustle

of

Yarmouth, but

It

has not the noise and

it is

gay enough

for reason-

able people.

At Lowestoft, facing the harbour,

is

the club house of

the Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club, and annual visitors to Lowestoft

Yacht Club

would find

it

an advantage

to

join

for the sake of the conveniences afforded

the

by

the club-house.

Oulton Broad has plenty of

fish in

it,

and the

fishing


RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

4

When

is free.

water

off the

the rivers

are

flooded,

marshes pours into the

and the rank

river, the fish of all

kinds crowd into the purer waters of the Broad in surprising numbers.

Formerly

it

was noted

for its perch,

but for some time they appear to have decreased in

numbers. caught.

Lately, however, they have been

more

freely

In a few more years the benefits of the Norfolk

and Suffolk Fisheries Act

will

be more widely

the abundance of small fish in the rivers plainly

felt,

as

testifies.

Pike are present sometimes in great quantity, but the supply seems to fluctuate

considerably.

For a few

weeks each season they seem to be uncommonly numeand large catches are made. Then they fall off,

rous,

and none are caught for some time. The shooting on the Broad is also

room

large

at the "

collection of fishes

free,

and

in the

"

Wherry Inn is a most attractive and birds, which have met their death

in this locality.

The most Broad

is

interesting

and tantalizing inhabitant

the grey mullet, large shoals of which

seen disporting themselves on the surface.

of the

may

be

They run to

a large size, and seem to average two or three pounds hi weight. rule,

Anglers cannot catch them as a general

but some persons say that they have succeeded,

using small hooks baited with strange baits, such as the

beard of an oyster, or a bit of boiled cabbage stump. fancy that by using a bits of cork,

I

fly cast, buoyed at intervals by and having small hooks baited with gentles,


135

OULTON BROAD.

and then paying out a long line so as to cover a shoal, some sport might be had. At all events, the experiment worth trying some day when there is no wind for The mullet, when alarmed by a net or other sailing.

is

obstruction, has

water,

was

a habit of leaping high out of the

and frequently leaps into boats.

sailing

through Reedham

Once, while I

Bridge, a grey mullet, of

four pounds in weight, leaped into the jolly-boat towing astern,

and was captured.

At Oulton the mullet are

often

shot with arrows

having heavy lines attached, while they are accidentally confined

in

the lock

between the Broad and Lake

Lothing. Well,

we spent

the rest of our holiday at Oulton, and

was saying good-bye to Wynne at the station, I asked him what he thought of the Broads. " The finest places for boat-sailing and bottom-fishing

as I

in England.

I shall bring a boat here in the winter

for wild-fowl shooting

on Breydon, and I

come again next summer." So ended our cruise.

BUFFE.

shall certainly


CHAPTER XVL ORMESBY AND FRITTON.

HEEE

are

still

in Norfolk

some very important Broads and Suffolk, which I could

not mention in an account of a cruise, because they are not accessible from the navigable waters, and, as a matter of fact, I

them

know comparatively

for that reason.

little

about

There are the Ormesby,

Filby and Rollesby Broads, lying together in a straggling group four or five miles north-east-

ward

of Acle.

water, but

Muck

Altogether, they contain 800 acres of

much

Fleet,

The of this is overgrown by reeds. which we passed below Acle Bridge, is their

outlet into the river Bure. sible

from Yarmouth by

They

rail to

are very easily acces-

Ormesby

station,

on the

North Norfolk Railway, and boats may be obtained at the Eel's Foot, and the Sportsman's Arms, the former having

fair

staying accommodation.

The

fishing is free,

at all events to persons going to the houses

named, and




137

ORMESBY AND FRITTON.

uncommonly good sport is to be had amongst pike, rudd, and bream, the number of a catch being counted by the For fishing, hundred, and the weight by the stone. pure and simple, Ormesby Broad

any

is

as

good a place as

to visit.

The other

lake I have not described

is

Fritton Decoy,

a long curving lake, about a mile from station,

St.

Olave's

on the Yarmouth and Lowestoft Railway, and station, on the Norwich and Lowestoft Bail-

Haddiscoe way.

It is only

open to anglers from April to September,

being closed the rest of the year, to protect the wild-fowl

prietors.

Norfolk, I

worked on

by the two proFor a note upon these decoys, and others in

decoys, which are

must

still

it,

refer the reader to a

paper upon decoys,

written by Mr. Thos. Southwell, F.Z.S., published in a

new

edition of that most fascinating book, Lubbock's " Fauna of Norfolk," issued by the publishers of this

book, and for descriptive accounts to my own larger " Norfolk Broads and book, Rivers," published by Wm.

Blackwood and Sons. an exceedingly beautiful Broad, and its waters are very deep. It is, in fact, a lake, rather than Fritton

is

a Broad proper.

It is extremely well stocked with fish,

and good sport may generally be obtained can be obtained at " Fritton Old Hall."

there.

Boats


APPENDIX. KAILWAY ACCESS TO FISHING STATIONS. begin with,

it

may

be well to state

that Norwich itself can be reached from

London by two via jj

lines

one

of railway

Colchester and Ipswich,

and the

other by Cambridge and Ely, the journey

From

taking from three to four hours.

Norwich, Yarmouth and Lowestoft may be reached in an hour of slow travelling,

and as the every

line

station is

runs by the river the whole way, and convenient for fishing purposes,

be desirable to give a

list

it

of them, with remarks

will

upon

the adjacent fishing places.

WHITLINGHAM. This

is

too close to Norwich for very good fishing,

head up, and although occasionally the fish seem to be good takes are to be had. Good rowing boats may obtained at Thorpe Gardens, five minutes' walk from


139

BAILWAY ACCESS TO FISHING STATIONS. the station.

Omnibuses ply between the Gardens and

The reach

Norwich every hour.

of the old river is very

lovely.

BRUNDALL Is the station for " Coldham Hall," at which inn visitors

The inn

can be accommodated.

from the station down the

river,

is

ten minutes' walk

and across the

There are plenty of boats, and the place quented.

From

are large

numbers

down

here

down

of pike,

trailing a bait

is

Buckenham Ferry

to

and

it

is

ferry.

much

there

customary to row

Roach and bream

behind.

fre-

are

plentiful.

BUCKENHAM FERRY.

From

you have ten minutes' walk down the Ferry, where boats are to be obtained, and the

to

this station

fishing generally is good.

CANTLET. Close by the station there

had. up.

water

is

is

the "

Bed House " Inn, where

good accommodation for visitors. Boats can be fish, as a rule, run larger here than higher

The

The water

is

deep and the tide

is fairly clear,

swift.

When

the

some good pike may be had. BEEDHAM.

" The " Ferry Inn

is

ten minutes' walk.

The bream run

Good accom-

do the perch, of which there used to be large numbers under the ferry modation.

boat.

large, so


140

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

The

Eeedham, one part going to Yarmouth and the other to Lowestoft. There is no fishing line divides at

place on the

Yarmouth branch, but on the Lowestoft

line there are

HADDISCOE,

whence the Cut may be

Boats are

fished.

" landlord of the " Bell

obtain, but the

This

you one.

Olave's bridge, might procure

difficult to

Inn, at is

St.

the

station for Fritton Decoy.

SOMERLEYTON. This would be an excellent fishing station

if

boats

could be procured, but you cannot rely upon being able

borrow one. The porters at the swing-bridge, or the landlord of the " Duke's Head," might direct you where to

I think the latter has one or two.

to obtain a boat.

The bream

are very large

and numerous.

The good

fishing in this part of the river has been exemplified

Mr. Winch, of Norwich, five

6|

who has taken 8

bream weighing 20

Ibs.,

by

stone in a day

and one bream weighing

Ibs.

OULTON BROAD. See the last chapter for

full

information as to this

important fishing station.

Another

Line

from Norwich leads to

WROXHAM. 7 miles.

The

pike, although

river is full of roach,

it

is

much

fished.

bream, perch, and

Boats at Jimpson's


RAILWAY ACCESS TO FISHING STATIONS. or Wliittaker's, where there

The Broad

for visitors.

is

also fair

accommodation

a mile and a half

is

141

down

It can be fished by perstream, from the hridge. mission only. Tickets to fish on the Broad can be

obtained through Mr.

Maker, London

C. J.

Greene,

Norwich, at

Street,

Fishing Tackle

2s. 6d.

per boat.

COLTISHALL.

Two

The

miles further.

fishing

is

much

better here

is generally supposed, but boats are not plentiful. Enquire at the waterside who is likely to have one at

than

liberty.

The Eastern and Midlands

line runs

from Yarmouth

through the heart of the Broad District to North Wai-

sham, on the Norwich, Wroxham, and Cromer

The

stations

line.

from Yarmouth are ORMESBY.

A

mile and a half from

which are

The

its

Broads, about 200 acres of

as good as it can be for fishing and bream. Boats at the " Eel's pike, rudd, roach, Foot" and "Sportsman's Arms." Staying accommofree.

is

dation at the former.

MARTHAM.

Not

far

from the

river

Thurne, but the next station

is

more convenient. POTTER HEIOHAM. " " Inns, the Falgate and Waterman's Arms," where


142

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

there

is

Good

staving accommodation.

The

boats at Apple-

Thurne and the channels through Sounds and Heigham Hickling swarm with bream, rudd, perch, roach, pike, and eels. gate's.

river

CATFIELD.

The nearest

station to Hickling, but not so convenient

for boats.

STALHAM.

Barton Broad

is

fishing is excellent.

end of the dyke. "

within a mile and a half, where the

Plenty of boats obtainable at the Inns, the "Maid's

Head" and

Stalham

Swan," both very comfortable.

is

the

a pretty

village.

Thence

to

North Walsham there

is

no

fishing station

of interest.

On

the direct line between

ST. OLAVE'S

is

Yarmouth and Lowestoft,

the nearest station to Fritton.

ACLE Is

now

a station on the

new

line

between Norwich and

Yarmouth, joining the old line at Brundall. Of places not accessible by rail, the chief Ferry, on the Bure, where there at,

is

is

Horning

a capital inn to stay

kept by a good host and sportsman, Mr. Thompson,

relied upon to make his visitors comfortable. At Horning village, the "New "Inn deserves mention, and boats can be procured there. Horning is about four

who can be

miles' drive

from Wroxham, and ten from Norwich.


NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT.

The reader

is

requested to look at the Map, and note

the relative position of the various places. it

143

can hardly be said that one

is

As

to fishing,

better than another,

for all are so good.

NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT. UNDER

this Act, which was passed in 1877, certain have been made, with which the reader should Bye-laws

make himself

acquainted.

APPROVED BYE-LAWS. CLOSE TIME 1.

No

ALL WATERS.

person shall fish for, catch, take, or kill, or

attempt to

than by rod and line, within the limits of the above Act, any Trout, between the 10th day of Sepcatch, take, or kill, otherwise

tember and the 25th day of January, both days inclusive, or any fish, between the 1st day of March and the 30th

other kind of

day of June, both days inclusive, except Smelts, Bait, and Eels, as hereinafter provided.

NETS GENERALLY. 2.

No

person shall, for the purpose of taking Fish within the

limits of the above Act, do (1.)

Use or attempt set

any of the following things any Net between one hour after sun:

to use

and one hour before

Ouse below Denver

Sluice,

sunrise, except in the River

and in the River Nene below

Wisbeach Bridge. Use or attempt to use, at any time before the 30th day of June, 1890, for the purpose of taking Fish, other than


RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

144

Tench, Smelts, Bait, and Eels, any Net having a mesh of less dimensions

when wet than

three inches from

knot to knot, measured on each side of the square, or twelve inches (3.)

all

round.

Use or attempt to use any Net having a wall or facin?, with a mesh of less dimensions when wet than seven inches from knot to knot, measured on each side of the square, or 28 inches all round.

(4.)

any navigable

river,

any Bow

Use or attempt to use, in any navigable Net having a poke or pocket.

river,

any Drag

Use or attempt

to use, in

Net. (5.)

(6.)

Use or attempt to use a drag net of any kind in the under-mentioned waters

(1.) (2.)

(3.)

The River Tare or

:

Wensum

The River Waveney The River Bure, below the lower entrance

into

Wrox-

ham Broad (4.)

The River Ant, below the lower entrance

into Barton

Broad (5.)

The River Thurne, below the entrance

into Somerton

Broad except with the previous permission in writing of the Board of Conservators, under their 3.

No

person shall,

Common

Seal,

within the limits of the above Act, use.

or attempt to use, any net for taking Fish, unless

it is sufficiently

weighted to sink vertically in the water, or take, or attempt to take, Fish

by placing two or more Nets behind or near to each

other, or use

diminish the

any other device or artifice so as the mesh of any net allowed

size of

these Bye-Laws, or to evade this provision.

practically to to be used

by


NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES PROHIBITING USE OF TRIMMERS, 4.

No

Ligger,

&c., IN

ACT.

145

NAVIGABLE RIVERS.

person shall use, or attempt to use, any Trimmer,

Dead Line,

or Snare, or

any

like

Instrument or Engine,

any navigable river within the

for the purpose of taking Fish in

limits of the above Act, except Lines for taking Eels as herein-

after provided.

TAKING SMELTS. 5.

No

person shall,

RIVERS TARE AND WENSUM.

within the limits of the above Act, use, or

attempt to use, any Net in the River Yare or purpose of taking Smelts, except a Cast

Wensum

for the

Net or Drop Net, between

the 10th day of March and the 12th day of May, both days inclusive,

and then only between the

New

Mills, in the parish of

Saint Swithin, in the City of Norwich, or Trowse Bridge, in

Trowse, or Trowse Newton, and the junction of the Rivers Yare

and Wensum at a place known as Trowse Hythe, and between Hardley Cross and the junction of the Rivers Yare and Waveney. 6. No person shall use, or attempt to use, a Cast Net or Drop

Net exceeding 16 feet in diameter, in the River Yare or Wensum, within the limits of the above Act.

TAKING SMELTS. 7.

No

person shall,

RIVER WAVENEY.

within the limits of the above Act, use,

or attempt to use, in the River Waveney, above the

Cement works, any Net

Burgh

for the purpose of taking Smelts, except

between the 10th day of March and the 12th day of May, both days inclusive, and then only at the places and by the means hereinafter mentioned, viz., between Rose Hall Fleet, and the

Boat-house Hill, near Beccles, and in the pen of Shipmeadow

Lock, by a Cast Net or Drop Net not exceeding 16 feet in diameter, and

if

any such Net be used between one hour after

sunset and one hour before sunrise, the same shall be used with a light or

flare,

and not otherwise.


RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

1-16

RIVERS OUSK, NAR, AND NENE.

TAKING SMELTS. 8.

No

person shall,

within the limits of the above Act, take

or kill, or attempt to take or kill, Smelts in the Rivers Ouse,

Nar, or Nene, between the 1st day of April and the 31st day of

August, both days inclusive. 9.

No

1 person shal , within the limits of the above Act, use or

attempt to use, in the Rivers Ouse, Nar, or Nene, for the purpose of taking Smelts, any Net having a

when

mesh of

less

dimensions,

wet, than five-eighths of an inch from knot to knot,

measured on each

side of the square.

TAKING SMELTS. 10.

No

person shall,

BREYDON WATER.

within the limits of the above Act, use,

or attempt to use, in the water

known

as

Breydon Water, for the months of May, June,

purpose of taking Smelts, any Net in the

and August, or any Net between the 1st day of September and the 30th duy of April, both days inclusive, having a mesh of less dimensions, when wet, than five-eighths of an inch from knot July,

to knot,

measured on each side of the square.

TAKING BAIT. 11.

No

NAVIGABLE RIVERS.

person shall, for the purpose of taking Bait in any

navigable river within the limits of the above Act (except in the Kiver Ouse below Denver Sluice, and in the River Nene below r

AY

isbeach Bridge), use any Net other than a Cast Net, or any

Cast Net having a mesh of less dimensions,

when

wet, than five-

eighths of an inch from knot to kuot, measured on each side of the tquare.

TAKING BAIT.

ALL WATERS.

12. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use, or attempt to use, any Cast Net exceeding twelve yards in

circumference, between the llth day of October and the 1st day of April in each year, or any Cast Net exceeding eight yards in

circumference at any other time of the year, or any such net,


NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT.

147

having a sack, or purse exceeding- fourteen inches in depth, when extended, for the purpose of taking Fish for Bait and the word ;

" Bait" shall

mean Roach, Rudd

or Roud, Bream, Dace, Ruff or

Pope, Gudgeons, and Minnows, measuring

from the nose

No

13.

less

than eight inches

to the fork of the tail.

person shall, within the limits of the above Act, Net

any time on a Sunday and no person shall, within such limits, Net for Bait at any time on a week-day except between one hour before sunrise and one hour after sunset, nor for Bait at

;

unless such Bait

is

for use in angling, or trolling, or taking Eels

within the limits of the above Act.

TAKING EELS.

RIVERS YARE AND WENSUM,

ABOVE HARDLEY

No

14.

person shall, for the purpose of taking Eels in

Rivers Tare and

following things

Wensum, above

Ilardley Cross, do

tli3

any of the

:

Use or attempt

(I.)

CROSS.

to use in the

months of

April,

May, and

June, a line with a hook or hooks, except in connection

with a rod used for the purpose of Angling.

Use or attempt to use any Net in the mouths of May, and June.

(2.)

April,

Use or attempt to use at any other time of the year, a Line, whether fixed or not, with more than one hook, except

(3.)

in connection with a rod used for the purpose of Angling. (4.)

Use or attempt

to use

any Net other than a Skim or Skein

Ntt.

TAKING EELS. 15.

lines

In

all

ALL OTHER WATERS.

other waters within the limits of the above Act,

with one hook only, whether fixed or not, and fixed Nets,

but no others, 16.

may be used at any time for taking Eels only. No person shall use or attempt to use, in any water within

the limits of the above Act, a

taking Fish other than Eels.

Dag

or Spear, for the

r pu pose of


148

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK,

ALL WATERS.

Any

17.

person, within the limits of the above Act, taking

Eels, or Bait in any Net allowed by the Bye laws to be used for taking Smelts, Eels, or Bait respectively, shall immediately return such first-mentioned Fish to the water

any Pish except Smelts,

without avoidable injury. 18.

The foregoing Bye-laws

shall not apply to

known

fresh-water Fish, or to the water

as

any other than

Breydon Water,

except as to Smelts, as hereinbefore provided.

/

hereby certify that the foregoing

lans made by the

Board

is

a true Copy of the Bye-

of Conservators under the above Act,

that such Bye-laws have been approved by one of

Her

and

Majesty's

Principal Secretaries of State, and have been duly advertised as approved Bye-lams in newspapers circulated in the Counties of Norfolk and Suffolk, and have been otlierwise published as the

Board

directed.

Sealed by order of the Board.

TABLE OF RIVER DISTANCES. C ARROW BRIDGE.

FROM

YA.BE. Miles.

To Trowse Hythe

i

,,

Thorpe Second Bridge Whitlingham Ferry

,,

Corby'sDyke Postwick Grove

,,

Hall

Wood's End ,,

,,

,,

,, ,,

.

1*

Hardley Mill

.

.

,,

.

Hassingham Dyke . LangleyDyke

,

.

13* 14

.

Dyke

.

Cross

.

14* .

Norton Staithe

.

.

Walpole's Reed Bush Buckenham Ferry .

12}

.

2

.

Wilde's Cottage Surlingham Ferry Coldham Hall

Miles.

To Cantley Red House ,, Devil's House

7* 9 10

10}

,

Reedham Ferry End of New Cut .

15J 17

Upper Seven Mile House

18J

Bemey Arms

20} 21

,

. Burgh Flats Yarmouth Drawbridge

,

Gorleston Pierhead

,

15*

15*

.

.

25 27*


TABLE OF RIVER DISTANCES.

149

FROM REEDHAM BRIDGE. WAVENEY. Miles.

Miles.

To ,,

Herringfleet Bridge

3

Somerleyton Bridge Oulton Dyke

4ft

Broad

7ft

To Mutford Lock Lowestoft Bridge . Pierhead

8i

FROM YARMOUTH BRIDGE. YAEE.

9|


150

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

TTTUTWE.

ANT.

jf7.l

To Thurne Mouth Potter Heigham Bridge Candler's Dyke Hickling Staithe

To Mouth

15$ 19

.

.

.

.

19J

.

.

22 j

.

.

Bridge

.

.

,,

Ludham

,,

Mouth of Barton Broad End of Barton Broad Stalham Stalham Staithe

From Yarmouth Bridge

to

,,

,,

From Acle Bridge ,,

Seven-Mile House Stokesby Ferry Acle Bridge .

to Fishley Mill

,,

,, ,,

,,

,

,

,

,

Ferry Poiut Entrance to Wroxham Broad >

Wroxham

From TVroxham Bridge

to

Bridge

.

,,

From Thurue Mouth

to ,,

,,

Wroxhnm

Bridge

13J 15

27

34 45

Heigham Bridge Kendal Dyke

.

,,

,,

Mouth of Barton Broad End of

,,

,,

End

,,

,,

of

10

Aylsham

JLckliug Staithe

..

7* 9

Coltishall

Ludham

,,

5J

7

to

From River Ant

12

18

Aylsham Bridge to

8* 10

4

Belaugh Coltishall

From Yarmouth

24$

6 <

Horning Rectory

,,

23*

.

i

M

,,

22 \

.

3J

.

,,

.

.

Thurue Mouth St. Benefs Mouth of Ant

,,

18} 21 f

House

Six -Mile

,,

,,

.

17J

Runham Swim

,,

,,

mitt.

Ant

of

Bridge

Stalham Broad ..

Staithe


FISHING GENERALLY.

TIDES. m.

h.

It ia

Yarmouth Bar.

30,, 40,, 40., 40,.

Cantley Coldham Hall

Oulton

Horning The Tide flows and ebbs

later than at

43

high water at Lowestoft

,,

in the

,,

Bure one hour

than at

later

Yarmouth Bridge. Neaps.

Spring*.

The

rise at ,,

Yarmouth

is

Lowestoft

,,

Cantley Oulton

6 feet

6J

,,

2* 2

.

4

.

5J

feet ,,

H

.

. IJ Tides, however, vary according to the strength of the wind and the quantity of flood water in the river.

The

..

and

direction

FISHING GENERALLY. IN the rivers water,

it is

customary to

and the shortness

fish in

10 to 14

swims necessitates the

of the

line being heavily weighted, in order that

rapidly.

The

when used

floats

it

may

sink

are necessarily large, particularly

for the lower reaches,

siderable tidal current.

The boats

with the stream, not across

it,

as

the swims are thus very short. clearer waters, the

feet of

where there are

moored

is

a con-

in a line

on the Thames, and For the upper and

Nottinghamsystem

of angling

might

be advisable, but in the more turbid lower reaches the Norfolk style for

at

is

some

provide

Worms are used Worms are procurable

practically the best.

bream, and paste for roach.

of the tackle shops, but anglers will do well to

them

for themselves if possible.


152

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

Boats are charged for at the rate of from a- day,

Is. to 2s.

but are rather rough concerns, except at Oulton.

Ground-bait, consisting chiefly of meal and clay, largely used, but a place

As

there

the wind

is

is

is

rarely baited

ample choice of stations, always at your back,

and you

will

is

beforehand.

moor

so that

thus have smooth

water in front of you.

Small roach as bait for pike, are procurable at most of the waterside inns, at Is. to Is. 6d. a score, but to get the best sport obtain fish from other waters, particularly

dace and gudgeon.

Pike

are, of course, the chief fish in Norfolk,

and are

In the rivers they do not run

plentiful everywhere.

very large, a ten-pound fish being considered a good one, but in a few years' time, with the freedom from

netting the rivers

now

enjoy,

we may

expect some very

In private waters there are veritable monsters, but the stranger is not large ones to be caught in the rivers.

likely to

make acquaintance with them.

Live-baiting and spinning with a spoon, or artificial bait trailed behind a boat, are the usual for pike in Norfolk.

modes

of fishing

Trolling with a dead gorge, and

spinning with a dead bait by casting, as in the Thames, are

comparatively rarely practised, although I believe

that in

"pay."

some portions

of the rivers these

methods would

I have seen fly-fishing for pike practised with

success here, and I firmly believe that on

shallower Broads

it

would be very deadly.

some

of the




158

FISHING GENERALLY.

Perch are only locally

bottom

suitable

Hickling, and in

for

common

wherever there

is

a

them, as at Irstead Shoals and

some portions

of the

Bure and Wave-

ney, but they run to a large size, and are sometimes

caught between three and four pounds in weight.

Bream

most common

are

of

all,

by hundreds and the stone weight.

and

and may be caught They run up to five

pounds in weight, and a take by two rods in a

six

day of 150, averaging half-a-pound

apiece, is not a rare

event.

Roach close to

are very

numerous and

large,

many running

two pounds in weight.

Budd

are beautiful

game

fish,

common

in

some

Broads, particularly Ormesby, and give rare sport get

among

of the if

you

a shoal of them.

Eels are, of for

"babbing" on to worsted,

course,

present in

any number, and

them, with a bunch of is

not a bad

way

worms threaded

of passing a

warm

night.

Tench rod and

common, but

are line.

They

are not often caught with a

are taken in

bow

nets,

and run

very large. In hot weather, in June, they may be taken by the hand as they bask in the shallow water among the weeds. ticular

mode

Some fishermen

are very skilful in this par-

of catching them.

Carp are caught sometimes, but not often, although there are plenty of them.

Dace and gudgeon are not navigable waters as other

so frequently caught in the

fish.


RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

154

Chub and

barbel are

The bream

unknown

in the

Broad

District.

are so excessively abundant that they spoil

the fishing for other fish, notably for perch, and I think

would be an excellent thing if the different preservation societies would set apart a few days each year for

it

systematic netting to thin the bream, replacing the other fish,

and

What

selling those retained.

is

anglers of catching thousands of small

the good to

bream

Are

?

not a score over a pound weight each better than tenscore fingerlings ?

Judicious thinning out, under proper

supervision, would have a most

beneficial effect

on the

size of the fish generally.

There are several preservation

Yare

Preservation of

Greene,

Maker,

is

Society

London

Street,

is

which the Mr. C.

Norwich, Fishing

the honorary secretary.

societies are to abolish netting

the river for fair angling.

societies, of

the chief.

The

The

J.

Tackle

objects of these

and poaching, and protect subscriptions are nominal

and yet they are supported entirely by local efforts. As a rule, none of the anglers from London and other (5s.),

distant parts,

who come down

to Norfolk

and have the

best of sport, contribute anything to the societies which are instrumental in furnishing is

exceedingly shabby

those

who have been induced

through

my

writings will at least

to Norfolk anglers of assisting

make

them with

of visitors here, to

visit

make

them

sport.

and I

This

trust that

the

Broads

the small return

in their efforts to

these waters the best public fishing places in the

kingdom.


155

FISHING GENERALLY.

There are a few professional fishermen to be hired by the angler. "Professor" Day, of Kichmond Hill, Norwich, water,

is

one of the best, and knows every inch of

and there are some good men

at Oulton.

Strangers frequently complain that they cannot meet

with the excellent sport which local anglers,

and

I

to the lot of the

falls

remember Mr. Cholmondeley Fennel

being immensely dispirited at his non-success on our

gentleman who

I lately interviewed a local

waters. well

known

is

and I append my remarks thereon, which will afford

as a successful fisherman,

questions and his

some valuable information.

ROACH. 1.

Where found

Throughout the local streams

brackish

;

at different periods

summer

the

where the water

is

of the year

?

entire

length

fresh

and not

the finest fish and greatest

of

our

salt or

number between,

Cantle^ and Coldham Hall, on the Yare large numbers In winter also in the dyke leading from Oulton Broad. ;

they appear generally to retire to the deep waters, and are

sometimes found in good quantity about Thorpe

Broad, and

may

be angled for with success in deep spots

on the Bure and other waters. 2.

Best periods

to fish for

July to October, but

them

?

good catches

may

often be

had

November, and during the winter and early spring months by any expert angler who doesn't mind the cold.

in

1


156

RIVERS AND BROADS OP NORFOLK AND SUFFOL1L

What

3.

As a

rule,

of the day

time of day at dijjerent seasons ?

but few fish are caught during the middle this is especially the case in bright warm " close " dull, days, however, they will

;

On

weather.

The morning up

often bite freely throughout the day. to about

11.30, and from 3

to

6 or 7 p.m. are un-

doubtedly the best times to fish during summer, and in winter almost any time up to sunset.

What

4.

As a

depth of water ?

rale, the best fish are

found during summer in

the deepest water, and should not be angled for on the

Yare at a

less

depth than nine or ten

On

feet.

the deepest spots that can be found.

the Bure

In March or April

shallower waters should be tried.

How

5.

affected by the tide?

Variously.

Sometimes an angler gets

all his fish

the up tide, and at other times on the ebb.

I,

on

however,

suspect that certain local formations of the river bed,

have much

do with

best I have ever used

is

composed of bran, bread,

made up into firm One of these thrown

boiled wheat, in fair proportions,

balls

about the size of an orange.

in occasionally,

wheat fish

this.

What ground-bait?

6.

The

<and

to

and now and then a few grains of boiled

will generally suffice to

keep a good quantity of

about your boat.

7.

Not

Are places

ever baited beforehand?

often for roach.

Believe this

ally by some, but have never practised

is it

done occasionmyself.


FIS1IJLNG

What

S.

baits are

157

GENERALLY.

most successful?

During summer the most successful baits are welland paste, red or white, in such clear

boiled wheat

waters as the

Waveney and

&c.

White paste

kills

the best iish.

is

the upper reaches of Bure,

on the Yare, the red always In autumn, gentles, and later on

best

brandlings and gentles, or better

There are

"blood." success

occasionally,

many

still,

small red worms,

other baits used with good

but these are by far the most

reliable. 9.

What

For

tight-line fishing in the

kind of rod ?

the rod should be light,

stiff,

deep waters of the Yare,

and from 15 to 18

feet in

For running tackle a shorter rod will do, and Should recommend one of hickory.

length.

for this I prefer

cane for the longer kind. 10.

Number of hook

When

?

the fish are of fair size, I use No. 9, at other

times Nos. 10 or 12. Those known amongst anglers as " Crystal," are excellent for roach fishing. 11.

h

running tackle advisable

Running

strong waters as

lieedham.

?

tackle is decidedly preferable for such deep,

those between

For the slower waters

Coldham of the

Hah and 1

Bure and the

upper reaches of the Yare, I do not consider that running tackle has any advantages worth naming. 12.

Do you

use gut or hair,

For deep-water

and what kind of

line ?

fishing I always attach nine feet of

|


BIVEBS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

158

gut to fine

my

line

six feet

;

moderately stout and three feet

Line, a fine braided

drawn.

shotted line of this

kind has

A

silk.

light, well-

many advantages,

especially

on a windy day.

What

13.

kind of float ?

For deep

swift waters, a large

quill, for slower

and shallower waters

Quill at all times.

pelican or

a

much

swan

smaller one.

14.

Is line heavily shotted ?

For deep waters I use a medium-sized shot. about a feet

foot, the

float carrying

upwards of 20

These are placed on a space of

bottom one not nearer than about three

from the hook, with just one shot on the gut This arrangement ensures the bait

attached to hook.

being carried

swiftly to the

bottom and kept steady,

very important items in roach fishing. Is float best attached by lower end only ?

15.

Yes, this plan which has been in practice with the " Norwich School" for many years past is decidedly the

and admits

best,

of

much more

in striking a fish than

when

neatness and accuracy

the

float is

attached by

upper end as well as lower.

Do you

16.

When affected

good

;

fish

are on the feed, the

float is first

by a slight tremulous movement, and almost

immediately tion

strike at first dip ?

the

settles

moment

down, generally in a slanting

direc-

just as the settling

down

to strike

is


159

FISHING GENERALLY.

commences.

amount

This, however, requires n large

of

practice and some keen observation before an angler becomes expert. Sudden perky bites indicate small fish,

and these are often the most Are

17.

thick water,

much

the fish <fr.,

and

is

difficult to catch.

affected by

there

any

rule

change of wind, rain,

on

this

head

?

Have always found a S.W. to N.W. wind the most when the water is "grey" or thick,

favourable, especially

and have had but never when

capital sport with a it

moderate east wind,

has blown strongly from that quarter,

and the old maxim '

When The

When The

the wind blows from the east fish bite

the least,

the wind's from the west fish bite

the best,"

Fish

contains a great truth in small compass.

may

un-

doubtedly be taken in clear water and in good quantity,

but running tackle and

fine,

and extreme caution are

necessary. 7<9.

loud

Do yon

find that movement, in the boat, noise, or

tallrinrj frightens

Loud

the fish?

talking or laughter in the boat does not appear

to intimidate the fish, but knocking or

which communicates a vibration

any disturbance

to the water is decidedly

objectionable, especially in shallower streams,

causes a great interruption to the fishing.

and often

Have found

a pair of lawn-tennis shoes or slippers very good to wear in a boat

when

fishing, for this reason.

'


160

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

Name

19.

know

some of the

best catches

you have made or

of.

I do not chronicle

my

catches, so can give

no dates

but have had some fine catches within the past six years, principally

Buckenham, with a 7 p.m.

same

;

On one

on the Yare.

friend, six stone*

another time upwards of

space of time,

five

;

or

occasion, at

between 2.30 and about the

five stone in

and numerous catches

from two

of

an afternoon's fishing also more than a bushel by measure one afternoon with a friend fishing in the dyke leading to Oulton Broad. This was in the to four stone in

first

week

20.

;

of September, 1879.

What

anglers which

is is

reason of the non-success of strange

the

so noticeable ?

Ignorance of the general requirements of tackle suitable

and also of the modus operandi, the chief reasons being a want of knowledge of

for fishing in our waters,

one of

the right depth at which

to fish,

be known by simply "plumbing" of instance, I have

which could the depth.

easily

Byway

on several occasions found strangers

fishing on the Yare in 12 or 14

feet of water,

with their

baits only about four or five feet below the surface,

at the

same time wondering that anglers

be catching plenty of fish

close

when they could

get none.

Baits, too, are doubtless used which, although very for

some streams or

waters, are of very *

Stone = 14

Iba,

little

and

by should

good

use with us.


1C1

FISHING GENERALLY.

"

N.B. roll

When

high,"

it

the wind blows strong and the waves often very difficult to fish or even to

is

This

detect a bite.

very tantalising, and not infre-

is

quently happens through a shift in the wind are in a capital

on a nice

*'

when you

for this is to

light ledger, with about three hooks,

which excellent sport

would be impossible In

The remedy

swim."

may sometimes

to fish in

when

it

bait

should be just

A

good plan adopted by some is two hooks, the bottom one dragging on the

touching the bottom. to fish with

put

and with

any other way.

fishing for roach, the

float

be had

bottom, and the upper one about three or four inches clear

an advantage in fast retards the onward motion of the float,

of the bottom.

streams, as

it

the bait

more

is

This

is

easily taken,

and the swims are not

passed so rapidly.

BKEAM. 1.

Where found

at different periods

of

the year /

During summer, on the Yare, principally between Langley Dyke and Eeedham in winter often found in ;

good quantity in the vicinity of Thorpe

Carrow and Trowse Hythe.

On

Broad and about

the Bure they appear

to congregate in the deep waters of the Broads in winter,

and make

their appearance about the

through the summer on the 2.

Best periods

to fish for

July and August.

river.

them.

A

V fy

end of May and

I


1G2

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

What

3.

Good

time of day at different seasons ?

catches of

bream

are often

I have, on the other hand,

ing.

had

had

in early

morn-

capital sport

by

moonlight.

For further

notes, see

answer

to

same question on

"Roach."

What

4.

depth of water

?

The deepest waters and the best

bream feet

at

quietest eddies are, as a rule,

but I have caught large quantities of fine

;

Wroxham, on

the Bure, in not

more than four

and a half of water.

How

5.

affected by the tide ?

Generally speaking, the most fish are taken from about half an hour before high water to half an hour after. For further notes, see " Roach."

What ground-bait?

6.

Boiled maize, boiled barley grains, barley meal into balls, chopped

up and grains I

* v.

/

I have found very killing

Are places

7.

worms, boiled

so.

other

still

8.

made

This latter

on the Bure.

ever baited beforehand ?

Mostly overnight, where there doing

rice.

This mode

is

a fair opportunity of

is

very telling on Broads and

waters.

What

For large

baits are

most successful

fish at Cantley,

?

Reedham, Somerleyton, and

other deep swift waters, ledger fishing, with the

lobworm on the hook,

tail

end

a capital bait. Generally " brandlings" the most epeakuig, however, I have found of a

is


103

PISHING GENERALLY.

and have found a brandling with a gentle placed on the point of the hook will sometimes be taken readily no other bait would be touched. Red paste is ,

Li^when

often very killing

on the Bure.

What kind of rod ? Strong and stiff cane

9.

or hickory, 15 to 18 feet long,

with a good stout top joint, on the Yare. do on the Bure. 10.

Number of hwh.

The

finest catch I ever

Shorter will

had was with No. 12 hooks

This was, however, in comparatively shallow water, Should say that No. 7 or 8 would be very good sizes for

bream 11.

fishing generally. Is

running taclde advisable?

See "Roach." 12.

Do you

use gut or hair,

and what kind of

line /

See "Roach." 13.

What kind of float?

See "Roach." 14.

Is line heavily shotted ?

In a similar way to that recommended for roach, but having the bulk of shot placed nearer the hook,

it

being

" " necessary that the bait should drag the bottom. 15.

Is float best attached by lower end only ?

As the bream roach, this

is

bites

more slowly and

quite immaterial.

top and bottom.

certain than the

I prefer float attached


1G4

RIVERS AND BROADS OP NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

Do you

16.

A

bream

motion

dip?

bite affects the float with a slight

for a

slides it

strike at first

few seconds, he then runs

down

slantingly

off

bobbing

with

it,

and

strike as he runs off with the

;

and you are sure

bait or the float is about to disappear,

of him.

17.

Are

thick water,

Bream

the fish d*c.,

and

much

18.

any

are rarely taken in

waters are very clear.

what

affected by

is there

change of wind, rain,

rule on this

head?

any quantity when the

See " Roach."

Is legering successfully practised for large bream,

and

modus operandi ?

is the best

In such rapid waters as those at Reedham, Somerno other mode of fishing for bream can be leyton, &c. practised with

any success worth naming

attaching to line at Is. each,

may

and the modus operandi

by no means strong and of

scientific.

Do you

The rod

is

very simple, and

requires to be very

and three or four rods may be the same time.

fair length,

used from one boat at 10.

ledgers for

be purchased at any tackle shop

find that movement in the boat, noise, or

loud talking frightens the fish?

Bream

are very sensitive to noise, especially knocking

in the boat,

which invariably sends them off for an inand should therefore be most carefully

definite period,

avoided. 20.

Name

known of

t

some of the

best

catclies

you have made or


1G5

YACHTING.

About ten years ago, had, in company with a

Wroxham

a catch of 17 stone in one day on

Have heard

with only one rod each.

of

friend,

Broad, and

many

catches

from time to time of from 4 to 10 or 12 stone, but unable 21.

now

to give

What

is

names

am

or dates.

the reason

of the non-success of strange

anglers which is so noticeable ? See " Koach."

In fishing for bream, the bait should always

N.B.

drag on the bottom.

YACHTING. IT will have been gathered from the foregoing pages

that the Kivers

and Broads

present exceptional

Norfolk and Suffolk

of

facilities for

small -boat sailing and

smooth-water yachting, better, perhaps, than any other There are two yachting clubs, the part of England. Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club and the Yare Sailing Club, the latter a very flourishing institution, furnishing four or five regattas in the year for small 4-ton yachts

and open

boats.

There are numbers of suitable yachts for

owing

to the frequent

practicable to give a

changes of ownership, list

of those

who have

hire, but, it

is

not

boats for

hire, which would be of any use. Enquiry at the inns at Oulton, and advertisements in the Yarmouth and


RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

1G6

Norwich papers

will

sailing -boats

Open

elicit

generally

Bullen, of Oulton, is a likely

man

answers.

suitable

to have a yacht to let.

with awnings to sleep under, and

small cabin yachts of four to ten tons, can be obtained

Wroxham

of Loynes,

The awnings

and comfortable

;

craft they are.

and most

of the small boats are waterproof,

ingeniously constructed, and the boats can be rowed or sailed anywhere.

everything that

is

Loynes may be trusted necessary for comfort, and

to provide

his yachts

and boats are largely patronized. They are all rigged Una fashion, with one sail, and are very easily manCanoes and rowing boats are in plenty at the aged. Norwich, Yarmouth, and Oulton.

riverside, at

As

before

stated,

the goods

by means of

carried on

traffic

sailing craft of

on the river from 20

is

70

to

graceful vessels,

These are long, shallow, with an enormous mast, supporting one

enormous

The

tons burthen, called wherries.

there

is

sail.

no boom.

sail is

There

is

spread by a long

gaff,

but

only one halyard, and the

by means of a winch at the foot of the There is no rigging to the mast except the fore-

sail is hoisted

mast. stay,

which

latter being

is

m:iinly of use for lowering the mast, the

balanced on the tabernacle by a ton and a

half of lead on is

lowered.

ita heel,

so that

These wherries

the wind, and are often built

it is

sail

raised as easily as

very

fast,

managed by one man.

on the wherry plan are very comfortable

easily

managed.

it

very close to

Yachts

craft,

and


1G7

YACHTING.

Wherries are frequently hired by private parties, the hatches are raised a plank or two higher to give greater head-room, the clean-swept hold rooms, and a

There

divided into several

capital floating house is extemporized.

now

is

is

quite

a

of

fleet

permanently- fitted

pleasure wherries on the rivers, which have ample accom-

modation from 8

A

for a party or family,

to 15 guineas a

good way of seeing the

to give a

sum

you have no boat,

to take

if

will be readily taken

you fancy, you

you on

to

Yarmouth

the next, back to

Yarmouth

sail

Wroxham

is

you with him

Norwich and Yarmouth, and

Thus you might

one day, up to

to be hired at

There are always numbers

passage.

of wherries leaving hail the one

board.

rivers, if

wherryrnan a small

when he makes a

and are

week.

from Norwich

and up to Beccles, at an expenditure of half-a-crown a day and refreshments. I am sure that visitors to either

Yarmouth

or Lowestoft will do well to avail themselves

of this suggestion.

The navigation

is

controlled by Acts of Parliament,

but pleasure yachts are exempt from course, at locks

The

and Haddiscoe

lift

tolls,

except, of

bridge.

rule of the road is very strictly adhered to by the

wherries and local yachts, and necessarily so point of

honour not

;

but

to harass business wherries

it is

if it

a

can

be avoided, as these are sailed for a livelihood, while

yachtsmen

sail for pleasure.

Therefore,

doubt, give the wherry the benefit of it

if

there

is

a


1G8

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK,

prudence not to cross a wherry's

It is also a point of

bows too

closely, as they would soon smash up a yacht you are civil to a wherryman he will be most civil to you, and don't slang him if he doesn't at once give way

If

for

you

him.

to pass

The following racing

regulations of the Yacht Clubs

simply epitomise the custom and practice on the rivers,

and must be adhered " That river

to

:

two yachts be standing for the shore of any or broad, and the yacht to leeward be likely to run if

aground or foul any bottom or bank, or not be able to stay without the windward yacht running foul of her, the windward yacht

must be put about upon being hailed

by the member of the Club who may be in charge of the leeward yacht at the

;

the yacht to leeward

same time

must

also go about

as the yacht she hails.

" That in sailing to windward the yacht on the port tack must give

and

way

to the yacht

in case of collision, the

owner of the

port tack shall be liable to pay occur, and

forfeit all

on the starboard

all

vessel

tack,

on the

damages that may

claim to the prize.

" That any yacht bearing away or altering her course to

windward or leeward, provided there

is

no obstruction

to prevent her keeping her course, thereby compelling

another vessel to go out of her course, shall claim to the prize.

forfeit all

In running before the wind, the

side the leading vessel carries her

considered the lee side,

main boom

is to

be


1C9

YACHTING.

"

A

yacht overhauling another

or leeward

;

may

pass to windward

and when near the shore or shallow water,

or when rounding any mark, flag, or buoy, if the bowsprit of the yacht astern overlap any portion of the hull of the

must immediately give way and allow the former to pass between her and such shore,

yacht ahead, the latter

shallow water, mark,

yacht not give

flag,

or buoy;

and should any

or compel another to touch the

way

ground, or to foul any mark, flag, or buoy, the yacht so compelling her shall

owner

shall

pay

forfeit all

claim to the prize, her

damage that may

all

occur,

and the

yacht so compelled to touch such mark, flag, or

buoy

any penalty for such contact an established rule, and should be most strictly

shall not in this case suffer

"

It is

attended to by

all

yachtsmen, that where two vessels

have to cross each other on opposite tacks, the one on

must invariably keep her wind, and the one on the port tack must keep away and pass to the starboard tack

leeward, or tack short

when

the smallest doubt exists of

her not being able to weather the other. of

damage

All expenses

incurred by vessels on opposite tacks running

on board each other,

fall

upon the one on the port tack

;

but where the one on the starboard tack has kept away with the intention of passing to leeward, and they have

come

in contact, the expenses of

damage

fall

upon her

on the starboard tack, because by her keeping away she may have prevented the other passing to leeward.

When

a

vessel

on the

starboard

tack

sees

another


170

RIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

attempting to weather her, when sible,

it

does not seem pos-

rather than keep away, she should put her helm for the Jess

down,

way

vessels

have when they come in Should both

contact, the less

damage

vessels put their

helms up and run on board each other, may arise, and therefore

they will sustain.

the most fatal consequences

nothing should induce the vessel on the starboard tack to

All vessels going free

keep away.

must give way

to

those on a wind."

SHOOTING AND SKATING. This

district is well

worth a

for the wild-fowl shooting

the winter timo,

tidal portions of the

you must not trespass on the

rivers is free (of course

marshes

visit in

on the

for shooting purposes, as the

shooting along

The usual plan is to rowstrictly preserved). along the river while your dogs work through the reeds on the bank inside the river wall, or embankment, which them

is

generally runs parallel with the rivers on each

Flight shooting

is

side.

also successfully pursued, but of course

you must obtain information as to the best spots in the Oulton Broad is free, but is much shot line of flight. over.

Breydon Water

hard winters.

Yarmouth gunners. light draught

is

It is the

is

An

a capital fowling-ground in

"happy hunting ground" easily

managed

of

sailing-boat of

useful for this kind of work.


FAUNA OF THE BROADS.

Winter time on the Broads

is

171

Being and the skating is then simply superb. Fancy Hickling, a lake of 400 sate all with the ice as clear and hard as over, acres, very enjoyable.

so shallow, the Broads are soon frozen,

and plenty of " elbow-room

glass,

"

for ice-boats as well as

skaters. It

would be worth while

down

for skating parties to

few days at a time while the frosts

for a

stead of struggling

come

last, in-

amid the crowds which beset London

waters.

FAUNA OF THE BEOADS. I CANNOT do

dant

more than

cursorily

mention the abun-

which teems amid the Broads.

life

the reader, for a full account of the

life

I would refer of the

Broads

ago and now, to that charming book, worthy ranked with " The Complete Angler," and " The

thirty years to be

Natural History of Selborne," " Observations on the

Fauna

of Norfolk,

a

new

Thomas

and more particularly on the

District

by the Rev. Eichard Lubbock, M.A.,

of the Broads,"

edition of which, with

suitable

notes by Mr.

Southwell, has lately been issued by Messrs.

Jarrold and Sons,

London and Norwich.

This book,

to-

gether with Stevenson's "Birds of Norfolk," are necessary companions to

For a

may 14

the ornithologist on the Broads.

fuller general descriptive

also

refer

the reader to

account of the

my own

district, I

larger

book,

Norfolk Broads and Eivers," published by Blackwood.


BIVERS AND BROADS OF NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.

172

Of course, water-fowl predominate. The heron, the great-crested grebe, the coot and water-hen are constantly Dabchicks abound in places.

to be seen.

I have seen

a score together in some open water, at Surlingham, during a

Kingfishers are seen occasionally

frost.

;

water-

Wild ducks, terns, and waders

ouzels never in the navigable waters.

widgeon, of

teal,

many species, hawks,

harriers are

Bickling. tits (I

to

and other ducks,

me

will

gulls,

kestrels,

occasionally met

marsh

harriers,

and hen

with, particularly about

Owls, reed wrens, reed buntings, and bearded

know a colony

of the latter),

and other birds occur

as I write, but detailed lists of the Norfolk species

be found in the " Transactions of the Norfolk and

Norwich

Naturalists' Society

"

of past years.

It is suffi-

cient to say that not only in the department of orni-

thology, but of entomology and botany, the specialist will

abundant work.

During the days and nights I have spent in the more secluded parts of the waters, and

find

particularly in

the very early hours after daybreak, I

have watched the habits of certain rare covered

their haunts,

anything, for to

and

dis-

which I would not reveal

for

species,

do so would be to expose them to the

ravages of collectors.

I

am

not a collector myself, nor

am an " " call the home-life

have I the remotest pretension to science, but I enthusiastic student of

of birds scientific

and animals.

what I may

Therefore I cannot give accurate

information, in

the shape of

lists

of

Broad

species without borrowing from the labours of others,


178

FAUNA OF THE BROADS.

and the clothing the dry bones with flesh would require more space than a guide-book will allow. But let a man lie

in a boat,

amid the

reeds, for

an hour of the

silvery

dawn, and watch a pair of great-crested grebes, feeding their young ones with small fish, and teaching them to

and catch

you might at times touch the birds with a fishing-rod, and he will

dive

fish also, all so close that

partly understand

History.

And

what

for the

to

#

is

romance

like the reed- surrounded

Jarrold

me

the of

Broad and

Soil*,

it

its

charm there

of Natural is

marshy

Printer*, Norwich.

no place borders.


JAKROLDS'

PICTURESQUE VIEWS THE CATHEDRALCTTYOP NORWICH. THE

SERIES INCLUDES VIEWS OF

Cromer Norwich Thorpe-mxt-Norwlch Lowe s bolt

Somerleyton

Norbhrepps

Fritton Felixstowe

Felbrigg

Yarmouth

Runton

Oulton

Southwold

Sherringham, &c.

Overstrand

OPALINE VIEWS, USUAL

Post Free for 10d. PRICE, Scrap Views, 6d. each, or by Post, 7d. (Size, 5^by 4 .)

3LI5T 500 501 502 503

505

506 507 503 5^9

750

752 753 754 755 753 7S l 758

759

OF YI NORWICH

Name.

No. Norwich Norwich Norwich Norwich Norwich Norwich

Cathedral Cathedral Cathedral Cathedral Cathedral Cathedral

Norwich Choir (W.) Interior Norwich Nave (W). Interior Norwich Nave(E.) Cattle Market

Interior

London

Name.

No. (N.E.) (N.E.) (S.E.) (S.E.) (W. Front) (E.) Cathedral,

Market and Guildhall

5" 512

Cathedral,

Agricultural Hall Castle Gardens Interior of St. Peter's Church

Font, St. Peter's Church

Erpingham Gateway Ethelbert Gateway 5^7

Chapel- Field Gardens Pull's Ferry Pull's Ferry

520

Thorpe Thorps Old Cut Norwich Cathedril (N.E.) Castle and Shirehall

Cathedral,

Street

522 523

SOUTHWOLD. Southwold

High Street Market Place

Gun

Hill

East Cliff Centre Cliff

From Lighthouse North Cliff South Cliff Coast-Guard Station

760 76 1 762 763 76 * 765 766 767 768

South Green Beach Interior St. Interior St. California

Edmund's Church Edmund's Church

Walberswick Ruins Covehithe

Dunwich Ruins Ruins, Bishop's Palace

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LOWESTOFT. No,

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No.

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RIVERS & BROADS f fjcrrfolk

nnb Suffolk,

AS SEEN IN THE

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4 5 6 7

Wroxham Broad at Wroxham

Yachts

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(Early Morning) Yacht leaving Wroxham Broad Old Boat House, Wroxham Broad Dyke near Wroxham Broad

Wroxham BrHge Wroxham Bridge Broad 8 An Eel Fisher's Hut, on the Bure 9 Dyke at Wroxham 10 An Eel Fisher, entrance to i r

Hoveton Great Broad Church of Hoveton St. John

12

On

13

Hoveton and Salhouse Broads

the Bure

JARROLD & 182,

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8

On

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Girling's

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Entrance

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21

Broad Horning Ferry Horning Ferry,

22 23 24 25 26 27

Mid-day

Salhouse Dyke Boat H ouse near Salhouse Dyke Dyke at Salhouse Great Broad Salhouse Little Broad

Great

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Sailing

Wherry Horning Village Horning, Wherry unloading Horning Village Drainage Mill, River Thurne Ranworth Broad

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Ranworth Broid, Old Cottage Ranworth Staithe Hut on Ranworth Broad CotUge at Ranworth Broad Village at Ranworth Broid South Walsrum, Dyke at (Wherry unloading)

34

South Walsham Dyke, Cottage

28

Sta'lham

Stalham. Dyke at Hickling Broad (Stormy

8r

Horstead Church

82

Belaugh, on the Bure Thorpe Gardens, Norwich

St. Benet's St. Benet's

Abbey (with Cattle) Abbey (near View) Church (on the Ant)

37

Irstead

33 39

Wherries Meeting (on the Ant) Barton Broad Barton Broad Gay's Staithe, Barton Broad

40 4i 42

43 44-

Weather) 4S 46 47 48 49 5

Si 52 S3

56 57

61 62

63

Ormesby Broad Ormesby Rroad, Eel's Foot Inn Ormesby Broad, Ruins on

Ormesby Broad Ormesbv Broad (Wild Duck) Filby Broad Rollesby Broad Filby Broad Moonlight) Eel Net, Ormesby Broad

83 84 85 86 87 88

On The Waveney Lowestoft Harbour Harbour Lowestoft

Cantley, on theYare Cantley, on the Yare Cantley, Fishing at Coldham Hall, on the Yare Near Surlingham, on the Yare At Coldham Hall, on the Yare

Dyke at Coltishall Coltishall Church Horstead Mill

At Whitlingham, on the Yare Whitlingham Ruined Church A Norfolk Wherry

An

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Norfolk

90

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Acle Bridge Acle Bridge, Wherry leaving Oulton Broad Oulton Broad Oulton Broad Oulton Broad

55

58 9

Hickling Staithe

Fritton Fritton

(

54

k 60

Beccles, on the Waveney Beccles Church Beccles, on the Waveney Fritton Duck Decoy Fritton Lake At Fritton Decoy

64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80

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SONS, 3, Paternoster AND OF ALL BOOKSELLERS, ETC.

Buildings, E.G.


^elections from Jarrold

AT ALL

&

Sons'

Boots, &c.

LIBRARIES.

GRACE STEBBING'S A

New

NEW

BOOKS.

made in Haste; or Hal Baumgarten's Adventures in " New Texan Town. By the Author of That Bother of a

Will a

Boy," "That Aggravating School Girl,"

etc. Cr. 8vo, cl., 3/6. Grace Stabbing has already secured for herself a wide circle of sympathizing readers by her works, the present volume will not lessen that circle." "Echo" says "A capital story of adventure in Texas, with plenty of incident and a high moral tone, well suited as a gift book for boys. The illustrations by Paul Hardy ate admirable, and of a far higher order than are usually found in books of

" Freeman

''

"

says

this class."

Wild Kathleen

or,

;

"Both

Sides of the Channel."

Cr. 8vo, 3/-.

"As

"East Anglian Daily Times" says

the title implies, the heroine is a typical Iri.-h gentlewoman, and stirring scenes in her life, laid alternately in Wales and Erin's isle, are very cleverly worked out by the authoress, who had already made her mark in woiks of fiction."

That Bother Of a Boy.

35 H1 U s. by Paul Hardy. Cr. 8vo, 3/6. "Leeds Mercury" says "One of the most amusing stories we have read for and a one of That Bother of a Boy,' by Grace the best of its kind, is many day, '

That Grace of a Sister. 1 its joint tiile of mischief as a boy of six or seven summers could well be, and as full of goodness of heart as Little Lord Fauntleroy Kate was as gentle and grac; ious and wise-witted a sister as ever a boy had for a ministering angel. The story is admirably told; it moves to laughter in almost every page, and to Mumps in the throat' not seldom. illustrated by Mr. Paul It is al-p cleverly and adequately Hardy ; and, if we are not mistaken, it will be a favourite, not only of this season, but of many a season to follow."

Stebbing.

For

if

But

Ted was

it

as

'

ought almost to have had as full

____^______________^_______

"""Uniform with

"THAT BOTHER OF A BOY."

Sayings and Doings in Fairyland; or, Old Friends with New Faces. BY D. S. SINCLAIR. Author of "Sugar Plums "

The Fairy Prince and the Goblin, etc. Upwards for Children," Cr. 8vo, cloth elegant, 3/6. of 40 Illustrations by Paul Hardy. "

" Glasgow Herald

says" In

this delightful little

volume we have ten old

new faces, a-'d very charming faces they are, too. Miss Sinclair, who has already proved herself an adept in fairy lore, here adonis the plan of taking for such familiar nursery rhymes as text her Hush-a-bye Baby,' Baa, Baa, Black Sheep,' Old Kin^ Cole,' &c., arid weaving out of them very pretty and iuteresiing stories one of stories. little every them, and all the better for the moral that Fairy runs through them ; that love and kindness and courte-y and truth-telling are the and the dwellers in this that in fairy-world only help those who help best things world, others, and drive away fear and wickedness and enchantment with only the every-day and unselhshness There is not a dull line in any and weapons of courage goodness

friends with

'

'

'

!

little readers will welcome gladly this interpretaiion of the wellknown rhvmes, and will find 'The BUck Sheep' all the more intere.sting that he is a handsome and repentant young prince, and the story of the mouse that ran up the clock the more pathetic that it is a poor naughty human mouse that is eaten up by the pussy cat. Clever illustrations by Paul Hardy greatly add to the charm of the book, which should be very heartily welcomed."

of the stories, and

LONDON

:

JARROLD & SONS,

3,

Paternoster Buildings, E.G.

AND OF ALL BOOKSELLERS,

ETC.


Selections from Jarrold

AT ALL

& $ons' Dew Books, Ac,

LIBRARIES.

CURTIS YORKE'S POPULAR NOVELS. The Wild Ruthvens, &c.

BY CURTIS YORKE, Author

of " Hush,"

Cr. 8vo, 3/6.

" " An 11 St. Stephen's Review says enchanting work, full of the diablr rie of t pack of boys and girls, who are Dimply f>ends in human guise, distressing everybody with their mischief-loving antics. The story runs oil with happy, blithesome tread to the end, which is reached all too soon."

Dudley,

BY CURTIS YORKE.

Cr. 8vo, 3/6.

"

Whitehall Review " says " It is some time since such a fresh, pleasant book has come under o.*r notice." "Vanity Fair" says "The book is published in one volume, but it is better worth reading, and has more in it than the majority of three- volume novels."

That

BY CURTIS YORKK.

Little Girl,

(Sandringham Library). " Spectator" says "The plot is evers ttin'g that

we

Cr. 8vo.

3rd Edition.

2/6.

very good.

The

tone of the story

is

throughout

could wi<h."

"Ladies' Pictorial" says

"Written

in

a style which

is

bright, fresh,

and

original, deserves to be exceedingly popular."

The Brown Portmanteau, "

(Sandringham Library). " Literary World says" The

BY CURTIS YORKE.

Cr. 8vo.

2/6. stories are all interesting,

and the volume

is

sure of a welcome."

"The

"Morning Post" says

writ'-r is natural, realistic,

and entertaining."

Moonlight by the Shannon Shore, BY MAJOR PAUL.

NORRIS

Cr. 8vo, 3/6. "

Major Paul has written in a simple style a capital "Saturday Review" says All good Knglishm-n and Irishmen may add thanks l-> M*jor 1'aul, and luy his book for the encouragement of >outh in the practice of sound loyally and the reading of good stones.' book.

1

The Maid

of

London Bridge. A

story of the time of Kett's

BY

Rebellion.

Hovellers of

SOMERVILLE GIBNEY, " The New River," &c. Deal,"

Author of

"The

Cr. 8vo, 3/6.

"Athenaeum " says " The Maid of London Bridge is an historical story. The author has clearly worked hard, and showed a praiseworthy intimacy both with the geography of old London and with the particulars of Kelt's Rebellion and subsequent '

'

disturbances."

"

Bookseller" says

"The whole

story

is

LONDON: JARROLD & SONS,

admirably told."

3,

Paternoster Buildings, ETC.

AND OF ALL BOOKSELLERS,

E.G.


^elections from Jarrold

& 3ons' New

Books, &c,

SANDRINGHAM LIBRARY. Crn. 8vo, 2s. 6d. each vol. In issuing the above series, the Publishers aim at supplying the public with pood, healthy literature, printed on fine paper in legible type, and handsomely bound, at a moderate price. It will comprise works of Fiction, Travel, Biography, and other books likely to interest the general reader.

That

Little Girl. 3rd Edition. By CURTIS YORKE, Author of "Dudley," "Hush," Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d.

"

The

Ladies' Pictorial" says "Written in a style original, deserves to be exceedingly popular."

which

is

bright, fiesh,

&c. and

Geraldine's Husband. By MARY MACLEOD, Author

" Atalanta " says

"A bright

of

"The Man

at

No.

&c.

20,''

volume, and contains some terse and never flags.' The "Norwich Mercury says-" A well-written story, with quite enough of i- cident and to the curiof the reader active." mystery keep sity " " British Weekly says" Wj itten in a pleasant style, . thoroughly readable."

_The

vigorous writing,

.

.

.

little

of promif e. "

full

Its plot

1

.

Sandringham, Past and Present, By MRS. HERBERT JONES.

With 12

Illustrations

of the

Neighbourhood.

" Times"

says" A graphic description, by pen and pencil, of the home of the Prince and Princess of Wales it contains n interesting account of a reighbourhood which is naturally beautiful, and full of historical associations. It is a book which enhances the repuution of the publishers."

The

;

The Curse

of the Fevrills,

By SYLVIA PENN, Author

2nd Edition.

of "Chronicles

of Wittleton." "Publishers' Circular" says "Sylvia Penn's work shows considerable experience in literary effort, and is p e^santly written." The "Belfast News Letter" says " A story of great originality and power.'

The

Putt's Notions, By MRS. CHARLES HERVEY.

For the most part true."

The Brown Portmanteau By CURTIS YORKE, Author

and other stories. of " That Little Girl,'' &c.

The " Morning Post " says

" Whether grave or gay, the author is a raconteur whose imagination and vivacity are unfailing. Few, moreover, have in the same degree the versatility whicn enables him to provoke peals of laughter m Our Expectations,' and move almost to tears by the sad pictures of In the '

City's Heart

'

'

;

natural, realistic, and entertainn g.'' told in a rapid and effective fashion, without as stories of incident should be told. '

the writer

is

The "Athenaeum" says "Are magic or comment,

LONDON: JARROLD & SONS,

1

3,

Paternoster Buildings, E.G.; ETC.

AND OF ALL BOOKSELLERS,


Selections from Jarrold and gons' Publications,

THE

GILES'S TRIP SERIES.

MORE THAN

HAVE BEEN

5OO,OOO

Paper Covers, 6d. each.

London.

GileS'S Trip tO Peep

at the

SOLD.

(Cloth, is.)

A

Norfolk Labourer's First

World.

Molly Miggs's Trip to the Seaside. Woman's

First

Johnny and Jenny: on

their

A

country

Peep at the World.

Way to

their

Wonderings and Wanderings

Lowestoft.

Joh n ny 'S J aU nt. A Day in the Life of a Suffolk Couple. Jack Jawkins's First Vote; and How he Won Polly Pawkins,

The Cockneys

in

the Country.

in which the tables are turned

Daisy Dimple:

Her Loves and Her Lovers. Price

'Arry and

A Diverting story,

on the Londoners.

Twopence

'Arriett at

each.

Yarmouth.

A

Taie about

Norfolk Dumplings.

Tom Todgers

and his Christmas Party. Giles on the Road to London, Giles's First Adventures in London. Giles and the Sights of London. Joe Jenkins on the Great Crisis. A Labourer's Views on

Home

Rule.

id.

The Man who Wishes he had Not A

Married.

Series of Thirteen Laughable Sketches. By FRED PEGRAM Second Edition. Oblong Royal 410, is. By Post, is. 3d.

" Some clever sketches of the inevitable woes that await the unfortunate marrieO man. All men who contemplate matrimony should invest a modest shilling in Mr. Pcgram's book of sketches, and pause ere it be too late." Pall Mall Gazette. "

It

is

moments

a capital book for of chance visitors.

the drawing-room table, to beguile the waiting

LONDON: JARROLD & SONS,

3,

PATERNOSTER BUILDINGS, E.C.

AND OF ALL BOOKSELLERS,

ETC.


YACHTS & BOATS PBS9 Bros., NORTH WALSHAM.

FOE, HIRE.

The WHERRY- YACHTS "BERTHA," " "ELSIE," "KATE," "DILIGENT," & LUCY," are fitted with every convenience foe the enjoyment of Parties wishing to visit the Rivera and Broads of Norfolk. Ladies' Cabin, 7 ft. long, 9 ft. They contain wide, and H ft. high, to sleep 3 or 4 Ladies, and are fitted with washstand, looking-glass, lockers, Ac. Oentlemen's Cabin, 14 ft. long, 9 ft. wide, and 6 ft. high, to sleep 4 or 6 gentlemen ; this Cabin is used in the day time for a Dining Saloon, and is fitted with a table down the centre, and sitting space for 8 or 10. The cabins throughout are furnished with blinds, soft cushions, plenty of rugs, and are lighted at night by lamps ; they are divided by a gangway leading from the deck, and a w. c. entered from eitlier the fore or aft cabin, and private to each. Two men are provided by the owners to look after and sail the Yachts, and are under the direction of the party hiring the boat ; they will attend to the cooking, cleaning, and washing up, and to the wants of the party on board. When sailing, a seat is provided on the fore deck " of the Yacht, and a "jolly boat accompanies each. The Yachts are provided with all necessary glass, crockery, table linen, knives, forks, spoons, &c., and the men's cabin is fitted with a good cooking stove. :

A piano

can be provided.

The Yachts

are so constructed as to be able to visit the Norfolk and Suffolk Broads Barton, Wroxham, Hickling, South Walsham, Horsey Mere, interest and all of on the Mutford, Oulton, places Rivers. Parties are required to go on board wherever the owners may desire, but can leave the Yachts at any place convenient to themselves by giving a week's notice. ail

JIMFSOXT,

J.

WEOXHAM.

Ten-ton Cabin and 3-ton Cabin Centre Board UnaSailing, and Rowing Boats, by the Day, Week, or Month, suitable for camping out on the

^'- Op en

Rivers and Broads.

Yachting Parties supplied with every class of Provisions to order.

CODXE,

C.

WBOXHAM. J.

LOYNES,

STKAM LAUNCHES Broads, from

Wroxham

for

Day

Station,

Trips on Norfolk

G.E.R.

CABIN YACHTS

from 23 tons to 3 Tons, with every convenience for Cooking and Full particulars on application. Row Sleeping. Boats fitted with awnings, 2 tol 10s. per week. fitted

C.

WHITTAKER,

WKOXHAM. C.

BEAD,

BOATS

for hire.

BOATS

for hire.

WEOXHAM. 091&4


B. COX.T.IXTS,

WROXHAM. H.

PRESS.

YACHTS

and Boats for hire from 18 tons and Yachts stored in dry Store Booms for Winter months.

under.

YACHTS

and Boats for

hire.

WROXHAM. J.

ALLEN,

COLTISHALL.

YACHTS and Boats to let for the Season on most reasonable terms; Gentlemen's Boats taken charge of for the Winter in good dry Store Rooms. All Classes of Boats built. Estimates given. " THR JUBILEE," Una-rigged Cabin Boat; sleeping

accommodation for three. Terms on application. "THE MERLIN," cutter-rigged Yacht; sleeping accommodation for three, lerms. 3 10s. per week, including man. " THE BESSIE," lug sail open Boat, with awning. Terms dtj. 10s. per week, including man. " THE FLORENCE," lug sail open Boat, with awning. :

Terms

THOMPSON,

O.

HORNIN Gr

:

1 10s.

per week.

BOATS

and Good Fishing to be had and oonveyances to meet any trains at Wroxham Station on previous notice being given. Patronised by the Marquis of Lome, the Duke of Abercorn, Lord Claud Samilton, and others.

WALPOLEFILBY. APPLEGATE,

8.

O.

POTTER

BOATS

for hire.

A WHERRY",

Yachts and Boats for

hire.

A WHERRY,

Tachts and Boats for

hire.

HEIGH AM. W. KJTIGHT,

POTTER HEIGHAM. J.

HART

&

SOZT,

THORPE VILLAGE,

NORWICH.

YACHTS AND BOATS

suitable lor Cruising

about the Norfolk Waters. Yachts and Boats of every description bought, sold, or exchanged. "ISLAND QUEEN," 12 ton Cutter, drawing only 3 ft. 3 in. of water, fitted with two Cabins, f ach. 7 ft. long. Ladies' Cabin has Patent Toilet Stsnul, and good sleeping accommodation. The Cabins are furnished with blinds, soft cushions, &c. They are divided by a gangway leading from the deck, and a w.c. entered from either fore or airCabin, and private to each. A new Centre-board Also Sailing Jolly Boat goes with the above.

competent man and boy. All nece.spa-y Cooking Utensils and Crockery provided on board. The "AUGUSTA,'" 5 ton Cutt r, having good Cabin, 8ft. long, nicehead rcorn,d'-aughtof water3 ft. The "FROLIC," 2 ton Cutter, Ca^in 6 ft. long, with good head room, draught of water 3 ft. The "FLORENCE, ' Una- Rig Boat, Cabin 6 ft. long, good head room, draught of water 2 ft. Numerous other Yachts of various tonnage kept on hand. J. H. & SON have excellent accommodation for YACHTS and BOATS, also good dry Store Kooms. Terms moderate.

2


THE

Q. HAZELI.,

THORPE

ST A N DREW lerkTMUTnu JS Olt VV lull.

GAMECOCK." Cutter Big, Fast Sailer, Sleeping Accornmodati on for three in Cabin, Jolly 4 i0s P er lioat Wltl1 ^ ug Sa ^ and ^ entre iJoar(1 > -

'

week with

mtiu.

THE THISTLE." A New

W.C., has a handsome Cabin Boar, &c., 4 4s. per week, with

3 10s. per week. " ROSE."

THE

A. J.

BERRY,

THORPE ST. ANDREW, NORWICH.

Yacht, fitted with 10 feet long, Jolly man ; without man,

A

Single-handed Yacht, Una2 10s Rig, Sleeping Accommodation for three, per week without attendance. For Hire, by the Month, Week, or Day, the " 8 ENNI i'acht

W

G Comfortable E," tons, Copper-bottomed, Cabin 8 ft. 5 in. by 8 ft. 2 in., including Centre-board Jolly Boat, with Sail. Glass, China, Cutlery, Culinary Utensils. &c.

"THE WATER LILY," 4-ton Una-Rig Yacht. WRIGHT, sleeping accommodation in Cabin for 6 persons. KINa STREET, Good 4. 3 per week, with Man Terms NORWICH. "THE GIPSY," Balance Lug or Cutter-Rig C.

:

Yacht, which has comfortable Bleeping room in 3 per week. Cabin for 6 persons. "THE EVENING STAR," Balance Lug or Cutter- Rig Yacht, with sleeping accommodation 2 per week. for 4 persons. Open Jolly Boats, fitted with awnings, etc., from A large assortment of Canoes, 30s. per week. Punts, and Rowing Boars of alJ descriptions to be let by the Hour, Day, or Week

W.

J.

ALDOUS,

" Steampacket " Inn,

KING STREET, NORWICH.

J.

'FAIRY QUEEN," 6-ton Cutter-rig Yacht* with large Cabin newly fitted out with Lavatory* etc., with sleeping accommodation for 6 or 8 per5 per week. sons. Terms 4, with man " MYSTERY," Balanced-lug or Cutter-rig Yacht, with sleeping accommodation for 4 or 6 persons, 3 per week. Open Jolly Boats with Centre Boai'd fitted with All kinds of 1 per week. Awning, etc., from Rowing Boats, Punts, Skiffs, Canoes, to be let by the hour, day, week, or month. :

"THE GKEBE"

BSOWN,

The Nook,

TRORPE,

NORWICH.

draught of water, 3

8 ton Cutter, cabin lift., fitted with all requisites

ft.,

for cruising ; also centre board, jolly t o well. Competent man sent.

awniugs

fitted

"THE NO BY,"

4 ion Cutter, having comfortable cabin and good awning over well, fitted with all crockery and cooking utensils.

"THE

cabin 6

2

ft.,

"

CONDOli," 2 ton Lug

feet,

good head room, &c.

;

sail,

length of

draught of water

awning over well.

THE RAVEN,"

2 ton

Lug

sail,

comfortable

cabin, good head room, and all requisites for cruising ; fitted with awning over well j draught of

water 2* G.

MOLLETT,

BEUNDALL

ft.

BUILDER

of the fastest Centre-board Boats in Norfolk and Suffolk. Yachts for Sale or Hire by

the

Day or Week.

a


A

J.

YACHTS, WHERRIES, and BOATS

FAWCETT,

H.

BEUNDALL. G FISHER,

COLDHAM HALL J.

for Hire-

Yachts, &c., housed.

WILSON,

'Bed House" Inn,

BOATS

to let for Pleasure or Fishing Parties,

^7 ^ ie ^^ or Week Excellent Sleeping accommodation for Yachting and Fishing Parties. -

FISHING- TACKLE,

Bait, Boats, &c., always in

readiness.

GANTLET. J.

SULLEN,

General Stores,

OULTON BEOAD.

YACHTS

from 5

to 30 Tons, always on hand, for Suitable for Sea, or Norfolk Rivera and Broads. All kinds of Wherries and Cutter Yachts from 5 to 16 tons for Hire. Excellent Sleeping Accommodation for Yachting

Sale or Hire.

Parties. Dinners, Luncheons, and Teas supplied at the shortest notice. Gentlemen's Yachts wintered on most reasonable

Terms.

STEBBINGS,

Q. H.

OULTON BEOAD. SMITH,

G.

Waveney

Hotel,

OULTON BEOAD. WM. WILSON,

OULTON BEOAD GOOCH,

C.

YACHTS, Sailing and Fishing Boats for Sale or Hire. Yachts hauled out, repaired, painted, and stored in good dry stores during Winter. Yachts and Boats built on reasonable terms.

YACHTS, Wherries, Sailing, and Fishing Boats of every description, to Let. Yachts wintered, and Stores carefully looked after. Terms moderate.

YACHTS

and Steam Launches

SAILING

or Fishing Boats for hire.

YACHTS

and Boats for

hire.

Y1CHTS

and Boats for

hire

YACHTS

and Boats for

hire.

YACHTS

and Boats

for hire.

YACHTS

and Boats

for hire.

YACHTS

and Boats for

OULTON BEOAD. BARBER,

R.

OULTON BEOAD. DAWBORN

BROS.

OULTON BEOAD. R.

GOOCH,

OULTON BEOAD. H.

JOHNSON,

OULTON BEOAD. G.

MASON,

OULTON BEOAD G. KEMP, OUL'l ON BEOAD Mr. THACKER,

BOATS

for hir.

OULTON BEOAD. 4

hire.

for hire.


Mr. BROWW, OTJLTON BROAD. R.

BOATS

for hire.

BOATS & YACHTS

KEMP,

OCTLTONBKOAD.

always on hand, for Sale or

Hire.

Yachts or Boats, bought,

payment for new.

KEMP

R. Yachts lying out in shed

;

also

taken as part

excellent accommodation for to 10 feet draught, or hauled

has

afloat,

sold, or

up

good dry Store Rooms.

Terms

very moderate.

Models and Drawings of Boats, Yachts, and Ships

made

Hotel

&

to order.

other accommodation for visitors neighbourhood of the Broads.

In

the

Proprietor.

WROXHAM

Horse Shoe Tnn

C.

King's Head Hotel

J.

Castle Hotel

H. PRESS. Miss BALLS. MR?. COOK. J. PLATTED. G. THOMPSON.

Apartments

HORNING-

,

The

New

Inn

Ferry Hotel

HOVETON RAN WORTH STALHAM

Head Hotel Three Malsters The Waterman's Arms Eels Foot Inn

J.

King's

LITTLE ORMESBY... MARTHAJVI

POTTER HEIGHAM

King's

FILBY

ACLE

CANTLEY BittJNDALL

MUTFORD BRIDGE. OULTON BROAD. ...

SIMPSON.

W. KNIGHTS.

Arms

Mrs. EDMONDS.

Apartments

POSTMASTER.

The Falgate Hotel Bower Farm (Apartments) The Limes The Bridge

W.

G-.

APP LEGATE.

Cornhill

G-.

APPLEGATE, Junr,

Greenside

R. APPLEGATE.

Corn Mill House

MRS. CARMAN. MRS. BENTLET.

Cherry Gardens Apartments Thorpe Gardens Railway Hotel King's Head Inn Queen's Head Hotel Bridge Angel Inn Fox and Hounds Red House Inn

WHITLINGHAM REEDHAM

WHITTAKER,

JIMPSON. C. READ.

G-KORGE.

Mr. HUBBARD. Mr. HARTLEY.

S.

WALPOLE.

II.

CHASTON.

W. SMITH. Mrs. MITCHT.ET. Mrs. PEA.RCE. Mr. ROSE.

NEAVE. J WILSON.

J.

ColdhamHall

G-.

Yure Hotel

J. H. FAWCETT. H. MASON. H. MAPON. Q. H. STEBBTNGS. W. WESTHORPE.

Wherry Hotel Lady of the Lake Hotel Commodore Hotel Temperance Hotel

Wavency Hotel The Bungalow

G. SMITH. ...

DAWBORX J.

Apartments

5

FISHER.

BROS.

BULLKK.


GREAT EASTERN RAILWAY, THE

OP

NORFOLK

and

SUFFOLK.

FAKES FROM LIVEKPOOL STREET

TO

OB ST.

PANCEAS.



LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA

BERKELEY

borrowed. Return to desk from which last date stamped below. This book is DUE on the

REC'D LD DEC

10 '63 -9 A JU.N 5

1




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