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THE FENDI HISTORY The Fendi adventure began on Via del Plebiscito, a busy street whose location in the heart of Rome made it a main thoroughfare used by the transalpine aristocracy. Adele and Edoardo Fendi opened a small and medium leather goods shop and set up what was then a secret fur workshop. Success came quickly and was confirmed when their five daughters, Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla and Alda, decided to get involved in the family business bringing new energy and ideas. Nicknamed the five fingers of the hand, it was they who, in 1965, invited a young German designer to join the House. His name: Karl Lagerfeld! After revolutionizing how to wear fur by fully reinterpreting it, transforming it into a fashionable, soft, light item of clothing, he launched the House’s ready-to-wear collection in 1977. He still provides artistic direction alongside Silvia Venturini Fendi, who represents the third generation of the family and is in charge of accessories, menswear and kidswear. Forever associated with the Fendi image, the legendary Baguette bag and the timeless Peekaboo have helped to shape the House’s influence.
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FENDI CAMPAIGN, 1998
FENDI FIRST BOUTIQUE IN VIA DEL PLEBISCITO, ROME
THE MAGIC OF FENDI
FENDI SISTERS
SILVANA MANGANO IS MARQUISE BIANCA BRUMONTI IN ‘CONVERSATION PIECE’ (GRUPPO DI FAMIGLIA IN UN INTERNO), 1974
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LAGERFELD FITS ONE OF HIS DESIGNS ON TOP MODEL INES DE LA FRESSANGE AT CHLOE’S PARIS STUDIO.
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KARL LAGERFELD AND FENDI Karl Lagerfeld, the world’s most famous fashion designer, was being heralded for an unprecedented and astonishingly successful streak of 51 years designing for Fendi. The famed Roman luxury label, once a small, family-run business, was celebrating its 90th anniversary and on a serious global roll. There was fearless expansion happening everywhere, including the fancy new white marble headquarters in the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana (a modernist Fascist-era wonder courtesy of Benito Mussolini) and the 17th-century Palazzo Fendi, replete with a new flagship, a jewel-box boutique hotel that houses a Japanese restaurant and a rooftop bar, and a private VIP apartment. Basta.
“My work is a bigger priority now than when I was younger, and it’s a very good thing.”
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KARL
ON FUR, FENDI AND COUTURE
By Miles Socha on July 8, 2015
Lagerfeld will unveil his most expansive experiment yet during Paris Couture Week: an haute fourrure show for Fendi.
Never one to take himself too seriously, Karl Lagerfeld once deadpanned: “I’m not very gifted for hairdos.” He was referring to his signature snow-white ponytail, which he has worn since the mid-Seventies and which has become visual shorthand for the designer’s personage.
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Yet when it comes to the hair of animals, Lagerfeld is a magician and a scientist, continually exploring new techniques and pushing the boundaries of design with one of the world’s most precious and valuable—yet still divisive—materials.
“Never use the word “cheap”. Today everybody can look chic in inexpensive clothes (the rich buy them too). There is good clothing design on every level today. You can be the chicest thing in the world in a T-shirt and jeans—it’s up to you.” —Karl Lagerfeld Still restless and driven after half a century designing fur and ready-to-wear at Fendi, Lagerfeld will unveil his most expansive experiment yet during Paris Couture Week: an haute fourrure show for the Roman house, putting fur on fashion’s most prestigious stage —and securing Lagerfeld, the couturier at Chanel for more than 30 years, another coup: the only designer to stage two high-fashion shows in one week.
Fendi is making a big deal of the milestone, not only mounting the show, but publishing a boxbound Steidl tome, “Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld,” packed with the German designer’s colorful sketches. Eyes fixed on fashion’s horizon, Lagerfeld is practically allergic to anniversaries and backward glances. In a wide-ranging conversation, he shared his vast knowledge of fur production and design, strong opinions about men in mink and the virtues of sketching by hand.
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1. WHICH WOMEN, PAST OR PRESENT, WORE FUR WITH THE GREATEST PANACHE?
Look at the old issues of Vogue, fur was the chicest thing in the world, especially in the Twenties and Thirties, when they used a lot of ermine — nothing to do with what they did later. At that time, the fur was much more beautiful and lighter. In the Forties and Fifties, they were just horrible, stiff and old. In the Twenties, fur was treated like a material. There was 2. HAD YOU DESIGNED ANYa French fur designer THING WITH FUR BEFORE YOU named Max Leroy, and STARTED WORKING FOR FENDI? he did beautiful furs. We did a few fantasy coats at Chloé: three or four little coats There is a very beautiful in rabbit in the Sixties because that was the trend of the old catalogue that exists moment, but you can’t call this fur. When the Fendi sisters of sketches by a man asked me to work with them, I said, “You know I don’t called Eduardo Benito. like the bourgeois mink, but if you do a fantasy line called And Madeleine Vionnet Fendi Fun…” because that was the idea at the beginning. The did beautiful furs. double-F was Fendi Fun. That’s how it started and two years later I did everything and the double-F became the logo of the house. Today it’s important to have a logo because some people from the other countries can’t read the name. I cannot read 3. DO YOU SEE HAUTE Chinese names, but everybody can FOURRURE AS SOMEidentify a logo. That’s why logos are THING INNATE TO so important.
FENDI AND ROME—IN THE SAME WAY THAT COUTURE IS CLOSELY LINKED TO PARIS?
Fur for me is something Italian because in France, I never do fur. There are not many great fur people here, and their technique is basic compared to what I’m used to.
4. FUR HAS ROARED BACK TO POPULARITY IN RECENT YEARS. HOW DO YOU ACCOUNT FOR THAT? IS IT JUST A FASHION TREND, OR DO YOU THINK THERE’S SOMETHING ELSE AT PLAY?
You know, trends come and go, so there are no rules. For the moment, people like fur, but they like fur as a fantasy, not as 5. DO YOU THINK IT LOOKS GOOD ON a status symbol. It’s MEN, OR SHOULD THEY APPROACH not something you WITH CAUTION? buy to show how It depends who you are, if you’re Liberace, maybe it’s OK, but I’m not rich you are, or as an too crazy for fur on men. As a lining in cold countries, why not? Alinvestment. That I though they can make hate. But that kind of you look fat. Very soft, coat they don’t really beautiful coats — I make anymore. 6. SO YOU RELY ON THE ATELIER think they are femiTO INTERPRET YOUR SKETCHES nine. There were too many rock stars and AND TECHNICAL REQUIREMENTS? people in the Sixties When they cannot do it exactly the way I thought, they find who used to wear fur, another way. It’s a very creative way to work together. I’m and if you look at the always very close to the workroom. pictures today, it’s very I t’s not only the idea, it’s also the technique and finding the tacky. But you know, right people to do it, because there are not so many people left, in the Sixties, it was and trained well enough. You cannot do this with amateurs. anything goes. We do samples, we try to work out things together, to mix, to make it look completely different, because the great thing about fur today is that it mostly doesn’t look like fur anymore. I even like the allure of mixing fake fur with real fur. Nothing should be forbidden.
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FENDI’S FUR MOMENTS IN FILM 22
Hand-painted red sil cloak embellished wi mink collar and cuffs tume was designed b Canonero and Fendi Expand Photo
lk velvet ith black s. The cosby Milena i.
Is there any contemporary film character as Pinterest-friendly as the kohl-eyed and deeply disillusioned Margot Tenenbaum? Quite frankly, no. And when she wasn’t wearing a transparent negligeé, smoking incessantly and doing DIY pedicures, she was dressed in Fendi – a toffee-coloured mink trench, to be precise – showing misanthropic melancholia at its most appealing.
The Royal Tenenbaums 2001 Toffee demi buff mink trench coat with tie belt. The costume was designed by Karen Patch and Fendi.
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Fendi and Wes Anderson are clearly a match made in heaven –after all, Anderson’s proclivity for mad glamour presents the perfect canvas for a major look. Here, Tilda Swinton (as Madame D) is suitably dressed in a hand-painted velvet cloak, with mink cuff and collars, and she is every bit the fabulously eccentric billionaire.
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Hand-painted red silk velvet cloak embellished with black mink collar and cuffs. The costume was designed by Milena Canonero and Fendi.
The Grand Budapest Hotel 2014
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No matter your gender, surely the staple requirement for being an Eighties Bond villain is a fur coat–and, if you’re Spectre operative and assassin Fatima Blush, such a staple comes custom-made. Played by Playboy covergirl Barbara Carrera, Blush is the archetypal Bond villainess– hyper-sexual and hyper-glam –and her fox fur stole is as necessary a part of her character as her pout.
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Evita 1996 There are few women whose penchant for luxury was as extreme as Eva Peron: the megalomaniac first lady of Argentina who would notoriously wear fur stoles as she deployed democracy to the masses. So devoted was she to a good fur that her last public appearance, just before she passed away from cancer, was staged wearing one filled with an internal frame made of plaster and wire to help keep her standing. Madonna’s might not have featured such intricate interiors, but it was certainly a suitable homage to Peron’s proclivities.
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The Devil Wears Prada 2006 If you’re playing such a stereotypically abusive magazine editor as Miranda Priestly, then you deserve a Cruella-style coat. Accordingly, Patricia Field and Fendi collaborated to create a red Persian jacket with orange and black striped lining for Meryl Streep’s character to wear: an outré fashion statement well-suited to her similarly outré demands.
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Red Persian jacket with orange and black striped lining, visible on the collar and cuffs. The costume was designed by Patricia Field and Fendi.
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FENDI STAGES A FASHION SHOW AT ROME’S TREVI FOUNTAIN The fashion brand and the iconic landmark are pairing up in more ways than one. By Lilit Marcus on July 8, 2016
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FENDI COUTURE SHOW AT ROME’S TREVI FOUNTAIN
If you’re playing such a stereotypically abusive magazine editor as Miranda Priestly, then you deserve a Cruella-style coat. Accordingly, Patricia Field and Fendi collaborated to create a red Persian jacket with orange and black striped lining for Meryl Streep’s character to wear: an outré fashion statement well-suited to her similarly outré demands. While the Trevi Fountain has long been associated with style (Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday, anyone?) there was more to its choice as the Fendi show setting than simply beauty: Last year, Fendi donated the money needed to repair and update the fountain. The brand reportedly gave roughly $4 million to fund the project, and the Trevi reopened to the public in November 2015. This marked the beginning of a trend, as other Italian fashion houses chipped in to care for beloved monuments in Rome—Bulgari paid for the renovation of the Spanish Steps, while leather-goods brand Tod’s has signed on to sponsor repairs at the Colosseum. If the old legend about throwing a coin in the Trevi Fountain and being granted a wish is true, then Fendi most likely has plenty of good fortune coming its way.
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LEGENDS AND FENDI COUTURE SHOW AT ROME’S TREVI FOUNTAIN
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For its 90th anniversary, Fendi staged one of its most breathtaking shows ever—a clear plexiglass runway stretched across Rome’s iconic Trevi Fountain. The couture collection’s theme was fittingly ‘Legends and Fairytales,’ as models walked on water–literally—across the backdrop of the famous fountains and pools from the 1960 film, La Dolce Vita. This marked the first-ever fashion show to take place at the Italian landmark.
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PARIS HILTON CARRYING A FENDI BAGUETTE BAG
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Carrie: “What?” Mugger: “Gimme your bag.” Carrie: “uh.. but it’s a baguette” 41
SARAH JESSICA PARKER AS CARRIE BRADSHAW IN SEX AND THE CITY CARRYING A FENDI BAGUETTE BAG
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THE EVOLUTION
By Laura Waldschmidt
When Silvia Venturini Fendi first suggested to create a little bag that could be carried around like the famous French bakery goods, the reactions at the Fendi headquarters were rather cautious – Fendi’s colleagues were suestioning its small size and appeal to the consumer as bigger bags like the PRADA Nylon Backpack were leading the market at the time. But Silvia Fendi kept on advocating her vision, and so in 1997 the Baguette Bag was released. Each of the purses came with a small strap and the double Fs, the infamous Fendi logo. The designer’s aim was to step away from any basic design, deliberately refusing to conform to the other bags on the market, complaining that they all looked the same. To avoid any kind of repetitiveness, the Baguette Bag’s iconic design and shape came in many different patterns and colours, ranging from colourful, sequin-scattered versions to reptile prints and furry logo-mania ‘Baguettes’. And the fashion crowd bit into it. Fendi’s creation became the first bag to induce waiting lists at all the big department stores – One could even say it started the era of the It Bag.
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44 MADONNA CARRYING A FENDI BAGUETTE BAG AT THE EVENING STANDARD BRITISH FILM AWARDS IN 2000
SPARKLY VINTAGE FENDI BAGUETTE
PURPLE SEQUIN CHARM FENDI BAGUETTE
GREEN CLOTH FENDI BAGUETTE
SPARKLY VINTAGE FENDI BASPARKLY FENDI BAGUETTE
GREEN SEQUIN FENDI BAGUETTE
CHINESE NEW YEAR 2020 FENDI BAGUETTE
BLUE SEQUIN FENDI BAGUETTE
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FENDISPRING
Making its debut on the runway during its Spring/Summer 2020 show, Fendi introduced the smallest pouch it has ever made as part of its Baguette family. Dubbed the Pico bag, the accessory arrives in two silhouettes and six spring-ready colors.
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THE SMALLEST POUCH ON EARTH JOINS FENDI’S BAGUETTE FAMILY The Pico bag arrives in two styles and six different colorways.
By Pauline De Leon
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PICO BAGUETTE CHARM Charm with brown beads
PICO BAGUETTE CHARM Charm with black beads
PICO BAGUETTE CHARM Charm with pink beads
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PICO BAGUETTE CHARM Charm with blue beads
PICO BAGUETTE CHARM Charm with yellow beads
PICO BAGUETTE CHARM Charm with yellow and orange beads
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WWW. FENDI.COM
Making its debut on the runway during its Spring/Summer 2020 show, Fendi introduced the smallest pouch it has ever made as part of its Baguette family. Dubbed the Pico bag, the accessory arrives in two silhouettes and six spring-ready colors. The pieces feature luxe embroideries made out of micro and macro beads, some with the addition of fringe details. Measuring at four centimeters in height and width, the new Baguette addition comes with a long multifunctional chain that can be worn as a crossbody bag, a necklace and bracelet, or attach it to your regular bag as a charm. Rounding out its design is the label’s iconic Baguette buckle that appears in the front as the closure of the bag. Take a detailed look at all the styles in the gallery below and let us know which one is your favorite. The Pici Baguettes are now available online and Fendi boutiques worldwide. f you’re looking to add more to your designer bag collection, be sure to check out Jacquemus’ Le Vanity mini bag.
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SILVIA THE NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR After losing Karl Lagerfeld, Silvia Fendi forges on at one of Italy’s most storied fashion houses.
By Fiona Sinclair Scott
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Replacing a long-time creative director comes with inherent risk, but Chanel sought to create a seamless transition by promoting Virginie Viard, Lagerfeld’s closest collaborator at the brand for nearly 30 years. Fendi looked within the family for Lagerfeld’s successor and promoted Silvia Venturini Fendi—the granddaughter of the company’s founders —from head of menswear, accessories and children to creative director for the entire brand. Both appointments were made with little fanfare, seemingly out of respect for the late designer. Two women now stand where Lagerfeld once did, tasked with working through great personal loss to define their own style, separate from their mentor’s, on a very public stage. “I don’t think I’m a clone of Karl Lagerfeld,” Fendi told CNN Style from the group’s Rome headquarters in July, hours before the first Fendi haute couture show since his death. “I will write my own story,” she added.
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2020 FENDI FW PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
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FENDI FW 2020 READY-TO-WEAR ILLUSTRATION BY JIWEIJW
KAIA JORDAN GERBER AND GIGI HADID AT FENDI FW 2020 SHOW BACKSTAGE
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FENDI FW2020 MENSWEAR “Retro-futurist” “polished utility” “a surprising wardrobe for the 75 modern gentleman”
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FROM THE FENDI FW 2020 MENSWEAR COLLECTION
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Photographed by Cong Gu
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SCAN WITH THE FENDI APP TO SEE EXCLUSIVE CONTENT
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SCAN WITH THE FENDI APP TO SEE EXCLUSIVE CONTENT
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Fendi partners with Korean sunglasses brand The Gentle Monster for a capsule collection in time for summer.
It’s officially sunglasses season, and Fendi has come through with the goods: the brand has collaborated with Korean eyewear company Gentle Monster for a new capsule collection, manufactured and distributed by Salifo. Featuring six different styles – from cat eye to classic aviator silhouettes – the unisex range combines Fendi’s dedication to craftsmanship with Gentle Monster’s futuristic, innovative aesthetic. The Gentle Fendi No. 1 part of the collection channels the tiny shades trend and are marked with a bright Fendi logo, while Gentle Fendi No.2 are crafted from metal for a versatile, flattering and easy-to-wear shape. To celebrate the launch of the collaboration this month, the brands teamed up with Russian art collective AES+F to create a short film. Reflecting its mix of futuristic and traditional themes, it sees the collection catapulted into a surreal, cyberpunk universe where classical architecture and hyper-modern geometric structures collide.
Two events will also take place to mark the occasion, hosted in the Seoul and Beijing Gentle Monster stores on 7 and 14 May respectively, where guests are invited to view the collection alongside bespoke animations created in line with its release. A Gentle Fendi cafè will also be open to visit from 7 May until the end of July in Seoul, which will offer the opportunity to taste a customised Gentle Fendi original steccolecco gelato bar, as well as other bespoke drinks and desserts. If you were looking for an excuse to take a holiday, this is it! Book those flights, watch the film below and follow the countdown to the drop here. The Gentle Fenti capsule collection will be available starting from early May 2019 in Fendi and Gentle Monster boutiques along with selected optic stores worldwide.
Gentle Fendi Café
“Creating two unique sunglasses alongside a Seoul-based installation.”
Alongside the launch of the collaboration, both brands have come to-
gether for a special pop-up shop entitled the Gentle Fendi Café, which will take place at Gentle Monster’s flagship in the Apgujeong district of Seoul, South Korea. The installation will take place for three months, starting May 8 and ending July 29, whereby visitors can experience
various art installations based on the collection and brands, as well as experience various exclusive treats created specifically for the café. You can check out the campaign, model, and product shots in the
gallery above. If you’re interested in visiting the café installation, the address and hours are located below.
Address: 22, Apgujeong-ro 10-gil, Gangnam-gu Seoul, Republic of Korea May 8 – July 29 (Closed on Mondays) 11 a.m. – 8 p.m.
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REFERNCES
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10-11 Text Fendi. (n.d.). The history of Fendi. Retrieved from https://www.fendi.com/bg/info/ fendi-roma/the-history-of-fendi Image Karl Lagerfeld en 1986, entouré des cinq soeurs Fendi. De gauche à droite: Franca, Carla, Anna, Paola et Alda.Courtesy of Fendi 12-13 Images © Courtesy of Fendi Foto uit ‘Fendi 90th Anniversary Book’. Metzner. S (Courtesy Staley-Wise Gallery, 1986). Gruppo di famiglia in un interno photo Elisabetta CatalanoThe Passion of Rome. 14-15 Text Martin, J. J. (2017, October 5). Karl Lagerfeld Opens Up About His 50 Years with Fendi. Retrieved from https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a17910/ karl-lagerfeld-fendi-collaboration/ Images Vauthey. P. Sygma (1960) Karl Studio. Retrieved from https://www.bbc.com/news/ in-pictures-47293657 18-21 Text Socha, M. (2015, July 8). Karl Lagerfeld on Fur, Fendi and Couture. Retrieved from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/karl-lagerfeld-fendi-fourrure-show-interview-10177590/ 22-23 Text Singer, O. (2019, August 14). Five Of Fendi’s Most Memorable Fashion Moments In Film. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/fendi-cinema-exhibition?image=5d54707661eb780008858101 Image The Royal Tenenbaums, 2001 24-25 Image The Grand Budapest Hotel, 2014 26-27 Image Never Say Never Again, 1983 28-29 Image Evita, 1996 30-31 Image The Devil Wears Prada, 2006 34-35 Text Marcus, L. (2016, October 20). Fendi Stages a Fashion Show at Rome’s Trevi Fountain. Retrieved from https://www.cntraveler.com/stories/2016-07-08/fendi-stages-a-fashionshow-at-romes-trevi-fountain Image Origla. F(2016, August) TREVI FOUNTAIN. Getty Images Europe/Getty Images. Retrieved from https://www.cnn.com/style/article/fendi-historical-couture-show-trevi-fountain/index.html 36-37 Origla. F(2016, August) TREVI FOUNTAIN. Getty Images Europe/Getty Images. Retrieved from https://www.cnn.com/style/article/fendi-historical-couture-show-trevi-fountain/index.html 38-39 Origla. F(2016, August) TREVI FOUNTAIN. Getty Images Europe/Getty Images. Retrieved from https://www.cnn.com/style/article/fendi-historical-couture-show-trevi-fountain/index.html
40-41 Image Heiress Paris Hilton on the Fendi Baguette © Gettyimages HBO Sex and the city 42-43 Text Waldschmidt, L. (2018, October 12). The Evolution of: The Fendi Baguette Bag. Retrieved from https://indie-mag.com/2018/10/fendi-baguette-bag/ 44-45 Image Madonna with a Baguette bag in 2000, Gettyimages All baguette images are from fendi.com 46-49 Image Fendi.com 52-55 Image Lagerfeld, K(Spring 2000). Campaign: Fendi Season. 56-61 Image Fendi.com Text Leon, Pauline De. “The Smallest Pouch on Earth Joins Fendi’s Baguette Family.” HYPEBAE. HYPEBAE, February 13, 2020. https://hypebae.com/2020/2/fendi-pico-baguette-designer-micro-mini-bag-release. 64-65 Image Numéro Magazine. Numéro magazine, (November 25, 2019). “Interview: Karl Lagerfeld Et Rome Vus Par Silvia Fendi.” Retrieved from https://www.numero.com/fr/mode/ silvia-venturini-fendi-rome-karl-lagerfeld-defile-venus-automne-hiver-modele#_. Text Scott, Fiona Sinclair. “After Losing Karl Lagerfeld, Silvia Fendi Forges on at One of Italy’s Most Storied Fashion Houses.” CNN. Cable News Network, September 5, 2019. https://www.cnn.com/style/article/silvia-fendi-documentary/index.html. 66-71 Images Fendi.com 72-73 Images Illustrated by Jiweijw Photographed by Corey Tenold 74-79 Images Fendi Milan FW2020 photos by IMAXTree 88-89 Text “Fendi Partners with Gentle Monster on Sunglasses Collection.” Wonderland, (May 2, 2019). Retrieved from https://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2019/05/02/gentle-monster-fendi-sunglasses/. Image Gentle Monster 90-93 Images Gentle Monster
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