CONTEXTUAL STUDIES
– LCF CATALOGUE RECORD – The Tommy Nutter Collection of suits
–
Cecilie Stöger Nachman
Page 3 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Tommy Nutter Tommy Nutter (1943-1992) studied tailoring at the Tailor and Cutter Academy. In the early 1960s he joined traditional tailors Donaldson, Williamson & Ward where he worked for 7 years. In 1969 he opened his own shop, Nutters of Savile Row, together with master cutter Edward Sexton. Nutters got famous for reinventing the Savile Row suit in the 1960s; shoulders were softer than the traditional cut, jackets tapering to the hip and trousers slightly bagging. Nutter’s better known customers included Mick Jagger, Eric Clapton, The Beatles and Elton John. In the 1970s his bespoke business became less succesful. Tommy Nutter’s eponymous shop opened on Savile Row in the early 80’s, where he trained future talents Timothy Everest and John Galliano and continued to create signature suiting. Tommy Nutter died of AIDS in 1992.
Page 4 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Page 5 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Object 1 –
IDENTIFICATION
Trousers:
Object Number: 1 (a+b+c) Collection: The Tommy Nutter Archive Sex: Male Garment Type: Three-piece suit
Quite high-waisted. Straight-legged and rolled-up at the bottom. Two pleats at each side at the front. Two side pockets. Hidden zipper and hooks. Creases in front and at back. Hand stitched label inside.
DESCR IPTION
Waistcoat:
Number of components: 3
Front opening with single fastening (six black plastic buttons). Four small patch pockets in front. Slits in both sides. Flannel front and silk back. Fully lined. Hand stitched label inside.
Jacket (a):
Waist: 82 cm. Length: 79 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposite seam: 43 cm. Length of sleeve from seam under arm: 50 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 44 cm. Top of pocket to base: 26 cm. Width of pocket to base: 14 cm. Distance between buttonholes: 10 cm.
PRODUCTION: Method/Technique: Hand stitched. Period/Date: 16.8. 1971 Producer/Maker: Nutters Producer Address: 35a Savile Row, W.1. Acquisition Details: On loan from Alistair O’Neill Acquisition Date: Regularly through 2006
Trousers (b):
Waist: 70 cm. Length: 112 cm. Waistcoat (c):
Waist: 70 cm. Length: 62 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposite seam: 45 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 34 cm. Distance between buttonholes: 5 cm.
M ATER IAL (COLOUR /PATTER N, FABR IC): Black woollen flannel with white vertical pinstripes. Silk lining – black in the jacket and white in the waistcoat.
CONDITION: Very good quality fabric. The general condition of the suit is almost as new except for a few stains inside the jacket and trousers.
DESCR IPTION: Jacket:
Front opening with double button fastening (six black plastic buttons in total). Quite wide double-breasted style lapel/pointed lapel. Slightly rounded shoulder pads. Two flap pockets and one small breast pocket on the left side. Full-length sleeves with four buttons on each cuff. Bound keyhole buttonholes made by hand. Fully lined. The label has been cut out of from the inner breast pocket, which is quite unusual. A speculation could be that the family did not wanted the name of the wearer out after they passed on the suit.
OBJECT HISTORY: Provenance: The suit was made for Stewart Grimshaw, a successful restaurateur and bookseller and in a relationship with the honourable Simon Sainsbury for 40 years.
R EFER ENCES: Related Objects: Same model as object 2, 3 and 4.
Page 6 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Page 7 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Object 2 –
IDENTIFICATION
Trousers:
Object Number: 2 (a+b+c) Collection: The Tommy Nutter Archive Sex: Male Garment Type: Three-piece suit
Quite high-waisted. Straight-legged and rolled-up at the bottom. Two pleats at each side at the front. Two side pockets, one small pocket at the waist and one rear pocket. Hidden zipper and hooks. Creases in front and at back. The label has been cut out.
DESCR IPTION Number of components: 3 Jacket (a):
Waist: 82 cm. Length: 79 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposite seam: 43 cm. Length of sleeve from seam under arm: 48 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 44 cm. Top of pocket to base: 25 cm. Width of pocket to base: 15 cm. Distance between buttonholes: 11 cm.
Waistcoat:
Front opening with single fastening (six grey plastic buttons). Four small patch pockets in front. Slits in both sides. Flannel front and back. Fully lined. Hand stitched label inside.
PRODUCTION:
Trousers (b):
Method/Technique: Hand stitched. Period/Date: 19.2. 1973 Producer/Maker: Nutters Producer Address: 35a Savile Row, W.1. Acquisition Details: On loan from Alistair O’Neill Acquisition Date: Regularly through 2006
Waist: 70 cm. Length: 110 cm.
OBJECT HISTORY: Provenance: The suit was made for Stewart Grimshaw.
Waistcoat (c):
Waist: 72 cm. Length: 59 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposite seam: 45 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 34 cm. Distance between buttonholes: 5 cm.
M ATER IAL (COLOUR /PATTER N, FABR IC): Grey woollen flannel. Jacket and waistcoat are fully lined with grey silk. The trousers are lined at the waist with beige cotton.
CONDITION: Very good quality fabric. The suit looks like new except for some dirt on one of the buttons at the waistcoat.
DESCR IPTION: Jacket:
Front opening with double button fastening (six grey plastic buttons in total). Quite wide double-breasted style lapel/pointed lapel. Slightly rounded shoulder pads. Two flap pockets and one small breast pocket on the left side. Full-length sleeves with four buttons on each cuff. Bound keyhole buttonholes made by hand. Fully lined. The label has been cut out of from the inner breast pocket.
R EFER ENCES: Related Objects: Same model as object 1, 3 and 4.
Page 8 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Page 9 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Object 3 –
IDENTIFICATION
PRODUCTION:
Object Number: 3 (a+b) Collection: The Tommy Nutter Archive Sex: Male Garment Type: Two-piece suit
Number of components: 2
Method/Technique: Hand stitched. Period/Date: Probably early 1970s as the model is the exact same as model 1, 2 and 4. Producer/Maker: Nutters Producer Address: 35a Savile Row, W.1. Acquisition Details: On loan from Alistair O’Neill Acquisition Date: Regularly through 2006
Jacket (a):
OBJECT HISTORY:
Waist: 84 cm. Length: 79 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposite seam: 48 cm. Length of sleeve from seam under arm: 48 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 44 cm. Top of pocket to base: 27,5 cm. Width of pocket to base: 15 cm. Distance between buttonholes: 11 cm.
Provenance: The suit was made for Stewart Grimshaw.
DESCR IPTION
Trousers (b):
Waist: 74 cm. Length: 111 cm.
M ATER IAL (COLOUR /PATTER N, FABR IC): Dark blue woollen flannel with vertical pinstripes in two different shades of blue. Blue silk lining in jacket and trousers.
CONDITION: The jacket is in a very good condition. The trousers are in a general good condition too, but have around fifteen small holes from month at the front.
DESCR IPTION: Jacket:
Front opening with double button fastening (six blue plastic buttons in total). Quite wide double-breasted style lapel/pointed lapel. Slightly rounded shoulder pads. Two flap pockets and one small breast pocket on the left side. Full-length sleeves with four buttons on each cuff. Bound keyhole buttonholes made by hand. Fully lined. The label has been cut out of from the inner breast pocket. Trousers:
Quite high-waisted. Straight-legged and rolled-up at the bottom. Two pleats at each side at the front. Side pockets. Hidden zipper and hooks. Creases in front and at back. The label has been cut out. A bias binding inside the trousers says “Super 90s luxury flannel made in England”.
R EFER ENCES: Related Objects: Same model as object 1, 2 and 4.
Page 10 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Page 11 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Object 4 –
IDENTIFICATION
Trousers:
Object Number: 4 (a+b+c) Collection: The Tommy Nutter Archive Sex: Male Garment Type: Three-piece suit
Quite high-waisted. Straight-legged and rolled-up at the bottom. Two pleats at each side at the front. Two side pockets and one small pocket at the waist. Hidden zipper and hooks. Creases in front and at back. White cotton lining in the waist. Hand stitched label inside.
DESCR IPTION Number of components: 3 Jacket (a):
Waist: 82 cm. Length: 81 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposite seam: 44 cm. Length of sleeve from seam under arm: 49 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 42 cm. Top of pocket to base: 24 cm. Width of pocket to base: 16,5 cm. Distance between buttonholes: 10 cm.
Waistcoat:
Front opening with single fastening (six olive green plastic buttons). Four small patch pockets in front. Slits in both sides. Tweed front and back. Fully lined. Hand stitched label inside.
PRODUCTION:
Trousers (b):
Method/Technique: Hand stitched. Period/Date: 2.8. 1974 Producer/Maker: Nutters Producer Address: 35a Savile Row, W.1. Acquisition Details: On loan from Alistair O’Neill Acquisition Date: Regularly through 2006
Waist: 70 cm. Length: 110 cm.
OBJECT HISTORY:
Waistcoat (c):
Waist: 70 cm. Length: 57 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposite seam: 46 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 34 cm. Distance between buttonholes: 5 cm.
M ATER IAL (COLOUR /PATTER N, FABR IC): Tweed with check pattern in olive green, beige and orange. Silk lining – olive green in the jacket and white in the waistcoat.
CONDITION: Very good quality fabric. The suit looks like new except for a stain on the front of the waistcoat and a small hole in front of the trousers.
DESCR IPTION: Jacket:
Front opening with double button fastening (six olive green plastic buttons in total). Quite wide double-breasted style lapel/ pointed lapel. Slightly rounded shoulder pads. Two flap pockets and one small breast pocket on the left side. Full-length sleeves with four buttons on each cuff. Bound keyhole buttonholes made by hand. Fully lined. The label has been cut out of from the inner breast pocket.
Provenance: The suit was made for Stewart Grimshaw.
R EFER ENCES: Related Objects: Same model as object 1, 2 and 3.
Page 12 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Page 13 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Object 5 –
IDENTIFICATION
Trousers:
Object Number: 5 (a+b+c) Collection: The Tommy Nutter Archive Sex: Male Garment Type: Three-piece suit
Quite high-waisted. Straight-legged. Two pleats at each side at the front. Two side pockets and one small pocket at the waist. Hidden zipper and hooks. Creases in front and at back. No label inside.
DESCR IPTION
Waistcoat:
Number of components: 3
Front opening with single fastening (six olive dark blue plastic buttons). Four small patch pockets in front. Slits in both sides. Tweed on the front and greyish silk on the back. Fully lined with white silk. Buckle at the back. No label inside.
Jacket (a):
Waist: 80 cm. Length: 80 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposite seam: 45 cm. Length of sleeve from seam under arm: 49 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 42 cm. Top of pocket to base: 35 / 25 cm. Width of pocket to base: 15 cm. Distance between buttonholes: 9,5 cm.
PRODUCTION:
Trousers (b):
Method/Technique: Hand stitched. Period/Date: Probably late 1960s or early 1970s Producer/Maker: Nutters Producer Address: 35a Savile Row, W.1. Acquisition Details: On loan from Alistair O’Neill Acquisition Date: Regularly through 2006
Waist: 70 cm. Length: 110 cm.
OBJECT HISTORY: Provenance: The suit was made for Stewart Grimshaw.
Waistcoat (c):
Waist: 72 cm. Length: 63 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposite seam: 45 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 32 cm. Distance between buttonholes: 5,5 cm.
M ATER IAL (COLOUR /PATTER N, FABR IC): Tweed with a herringbone pattern in blue and black. Greyish silk lining.
CONDITION: The outside of the jacket is in a good condition except for some pealing under the arms. The lining inside the jacket is very porous, especially at the right armpit. The trousers and waistcoat are in a general good condition except for a few stains.
DESCR IPTION: Jacket:
Front opening with single button fastening (three dark blue plastic buttons in total). Notched lapel with a single flower-buttonhole on the left side. Slightly rounded shoulder pads. Two flap pockets, one ticket pocket and one small breast pocket on the left side. Full-length sleeves with four buttons on each cuff. Bound keyhole buttonholes made by hand. Single centre vent and fully lined. There is a ‘Nutters’ label inside the jacket.
R EFER ENCES: Related Objects: Same model as object 9
Page 14 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Page 15 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Object 6 –
IDENTIFICATION
PRODUCTION:
Object Number: 6 (a+b) Collection: The Tommy Nutter Archive Sex: Male Garment Type: Two-piece suit (sports jacket and trousers)
Method/Technique: Hand stitched. Period/Date: 19.7. 1972 Producer/Maker: Nutters Producer Address: 35a Savile Row, W.1. Acquisition Details: On loan from Alistair O’Neill Acquisition Date: Regularly through 2006
DESCR IPTION Number of components: 2
OBJECT HISTORY: Jacket (a):
Waist: 76 cm. Length: 81 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposite seam: 42 cm. Length of sleeve from seam under arm: 47 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 43 cm. Top of pocket to base: 26 cm. Width of pocket to base: 16,5 cm. Distance between buttonholes: 7 cm. Trousers (b):
Waist: 70 cm. Length: 112 cm.
M ATER IAL (COLOUR /PATTER N, FABR IC): Tweed with a blue/grey pattern. Grey silk lining.
CONDITION: The quality of the fabric is very good. The suit looks like new and has hardly ever been worn.
DESCR IPTION: Sports/The Norfolk Jacket:
Front opening with single button fastening (three dark blue plastic buttons in total). Notched lapel with a single flowerbuttonhole on the left side. Two flap pockets in each side. Integrated belt with button fastening. Full-length sleeves with button detail on each cuff. Bound keyhole buttonholes made by hand. Double-vented style and fully lined with grey silk in the body and white in the sleeves. The label has been cut out. Trousers:
Quite high-waisted. Wide-legged and rolled-up at the bottom. Two pleats at each side at the front. Two side pockets, one small pocket at the waist and one rear pocket. Hidden zipper and hooks. Creases in front and at back. White silk lining at the waist. No label inside.
Provenance: The suit was made for Stewart Grimshaw.
R EFER ENCES: Related Objects: -
Page 16 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Page 17 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Object 7 –
IDENTIFICATION
PRODUCTION:
Object Number: 7 (a+b) Collection: The Tommy Nutter Archive Sex: Male Garment Type: Two-piece suit
Method/Technique: Hand stitched. Period/Date: Probably the mid 1970s. Producer/Maker: Nutters Producer Address: 35a Savile Row, W.1. Acquisition Details: On loan from Alistair O’Neill Acquisition Date: Regularly through 2006
DESCR IPTION Number of components: 2
OBJECT HISTORY: Jacket (a):
Waist: 80 cm. Length: 80 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposite seam: 43 cm. Length of sleeve from seam under arm: 46 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 42 cm. Top of pocket to base: 29 cm. Width of pocket to base: 15 cm. Distance between buttonholes: 12 cm. Trousers (b):
Waist: 74 cm. Length: 109 cm.
M ATER IAL (COLOUR /PATTER N, FABR IC): Tweed with a check pattern in brown, green, orange and red. Lining of olive green silk.
CONDITION: The quality of the fabric is very good. The suit looks like new and have perhaps never been worn.
DESCR IPTION: Jacket:
Front opening with single button fastening (two plastic ‘bone’ buttons in total). Peacked lapel with a single buttonhole on the left side. Two flap pockets in each side. Full-length sleeves with four buttons on each cuff. Bound keyhole buttonholes made by hand. Single-vented style and fully lined with olive green silk in the body and white in the sleeves. The label has been cut out. Trousers:
Quite high-waisted. Wide-legged and rolled-up at the bottom. Two pleats at each side at the front. Two side pockets. Hidden zipper and hooks. Creases in front and at back. Yellow/greenish silk lining at the waist. No label inside.
Provenance: The suit was made for Stewart Grimshaw.
R EFER ENCES: Related Objects: Same model as object 8
Page 18 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Page 19 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Object 8 –
IDENTIFICATION
PRODUCTION:
Object Number: 8 (a+b) Collection: The Tommy Nutter Archive Sex: Male Garment Type: Two-piece suit
Method/Technique: Hand stitched. Period/Date: Probably the mid 1970s. Producer/Maker: Nutters Producer Address: 35a Savile Row, W.1. Acquisition Details: On loan from Alistair O’Neill Acquisition Date: Regularly through 2006
DESCR IPTION Number of components: 2
OBJECT HISTORY: Jacket (a):
Waist: 78 cm. Length: 81 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposite seam: 44 cm. Length of sleeve from seam under arm: 50 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 46 cm. Top of pocket to base: 30 cm. Width of pocket to base: 15 cm. Distance between buttonholes: 12,5 cm. Trousers (b):
Waist: 74 cm. Length: 113 cm.
M ATER IAL (COLOUR /PATTER N, FABR IC): Green tweed with a blue check pattern. Grey silk lining.
CONDITION: The suit is in a very good condition except for a few, small stains.
DESCR IPTION: Jacket:
Front opening with single button fastening (two grey plastic buttons in total). Peacked lapel with a single flower-buttonhole on the left side. Two flap pockets in each side and a breast pocket. Full-length sleeves with four buttons on each cuff. Bound keyhole buttonholes made by hand. Single-vented style and fully lined with olive grey silk in the body and white in the sleeves. No label inside. Trousers:
Quite high-waisted. Wide-legged and rolled-up at the bottom. Two pleats at each side at the front. Two side pockets. Hidden zipper and hooks. Creases in front and at back. Fully lined with grey silk. No label inside.
Provenance: The suit was made for Stewart Grimshaw.
R EFER ENCES: Related Objects: Same model as object 7
Page 20 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Page 21 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Object 9 –
IDENTIFICATION Object Number: 9 (a+b+c+d) Collection: The Tommy Nutter Archive Sex: Male Garment Type: Three-piece suit + extra breeches.
ets, one ticket pocket and one small breast pocket on the left side. Full-length sleeves with four buttons on each cuff. Bound keyhole buttonholes made by hand. Single centre vent and fully lined. The label has been cut out.
DESCR IPTION
Trousers:
Number of components: 4
Quite high-waisted. Straight-legged. One dart at each side (at both the front and the back). One small pocket at the waist. Hidden zipper and hooks. Creases in front and at back. Label inside.
Jacket (a):
Waist: 80 cm. Length: 79 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposite seam: 44 cm. Length of sleeve from seam under arm: 49 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 43 cm. Top of pocket to base: 35,5 / 26 cm. Width of pocket to base: 15 cm. Distance between buttonholes: 10 cm.
Waistcoat:
Front opening with single fastening (six grey plastic buttons). Four small patch pockets at front. Slits in both sides. Tweed on the front and greyish silk on the back. Fully lined with white silk. Buckle-belt at the back. No label inside.
Trousers (b):
Breeches:
Waist: 72 cm. Length: 112 cm.
Knee-long. One dart at each side in the waist (front and back). One small pocket in the waist, hidden zipper and hooks and buckles at the end of each trouser leg. Silk and cotton lining. Label inside.
Waistcoat (c):
Waist: 70 cm. Length: 63 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposite seam: 47 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 33 cm. Distance between buttonholes: 5 cm. Breeches (d):
Waist: 72 cm. Length: 112 cm.
PRODUCTION: Method/Technique: Hand-stitched. Period/Date: 6.1. 1971 Producer/Maker: Nutters Producer Address: 35a Savile Row, W.1. Acquisition Details: On loan from Alistair O’Neill Acquisition Date: Regularly through 2006
OBJECT HISTORY:
M ATER IAL (COLOUR /PATTER N, FABR IC):
Provenance: The suit was made for Stewart Grimshaw.
Olive green flannel with a check pattern in green, blue and red. Olive green and white silk lining.
R EFER ENCES: Related Objects: Same model as object 5
CONDITION: Very good quality fabric. The condition of the suit is as good as new.
DESCR IPTION: Jacket:
Front opening with single button fastening (three grey plastic buttons in total). Notched lapel with a single flower-buttonhole on the left side. Slightly rounded shoulder pads. Two flap pock-
Page 22 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Page 23 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Object 10 –
IDENTIFICATION
Trousers:
Object Number: 10 (a+b+c) Collection: The Tommy Nutter Archive Sex: Male Garment Type: Three-piece suit
Quite high-waisted and wide-legged. One dart in each side of the waist (both at the front and back). Two small ‘hidden’ pockets in the waist. Hidden zipper and hooks. Creases in front and at back. Fully lined. Label inside.
DESCR IPTION Number of components: 3 Jacket (a):
Waist: 78 cm. Length: 80 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposite seam: 44 cm. Length of sleeve from seam under arm: 49 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 42 cm. Top of pocket to base: 37/27 cm. Width of pocket to base: 15 cm. Distance between buttonholes: 10 cm. Trousers (b):
Waist: 70 cm. Length: 109 cm. Waistcoat (c):
Waist: 72 cm. Length: 57 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposire seam: 45 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 33 cm. Distance between buttonholes. 5,5 cm.
M ATER IAL (COLOUR /PATTER N, FABR IC): Purple twill woollen fabric with bordeaux-red bias binding. Aubergine coloured silk lining in the jacket and white silk lining in the waistcoat and the trousers.
CONDITION: The suit is in a very good condition except for some fading of the lining in the jacket.
DESCR IPTION: Jacket:
Front opening with single button fastening (two mother-ofpearl buttons in total). Very wide peacked lapel with a single flower-buttonhole on the left side. Two flap pockets in each side, one ticket pocket and one patch breast pocket. Full-length sleeves with four buttons on each cuff. Bound keyhole buttonholes made by hand. Single-vented style and fully lined with aubergine coloured silk. The label has been cut out.
Waistcoat:
Front opening with single button fastening (six mother-of-pearl buttons in total). Four patch pockets at the front. Slits in each side. Label inside.
PRODUCTION: Method/Technique: Mainly hand stitched but the lining is machine stitched with overlocked seams. Period/Date: 22.5. 1972 Producer/Maker: Nutters Producer Address: 35a Savile Row, W.1. Acquisition Details: On loan from Alistair O’Neill Acquisition Date: Regularly through 2006
OBJECT HISTORY: Provenance: The suit was made for Stewart Grimshaw.
R EFER ENCES: Related Objects: Same model as object 11 and 12
Page 24 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Page 25 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Object 11 –
IDENTIFICATION
Trousers:
Object Number: 11 (a+b+c) Collection: The Tommy Nutter Archive Sex: Male Garment Type: Three-piece suit
Quite high-waisted and wide-legged. One dart in each side of the waist (both at the front and back). Two small ‘hidden’ pockets in the waist. Hidden zipper and hooks. Creases in front and at back. Fully lined. Label inside.
DESCR IPTION Number of components: 3
Waistcoat:
Jacket (a):
Front opening with single button fastening (six grey plastic buttons in total). Four patch pockets at the front. Slits in each side. Label inside.
Waist: 80 cm. Length: 81 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposite seam: 44 cm. Length of sleeve from seam under arm: 49 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 43 cm. Top of pocket to base: 37/27 cm. Width of pocket to base: 15 cm. Distance between buttonholes: 10,5 cm.
PRODUCTION:
Trousers (b):
Method/Technique: Mainly hand stitched but the lining is machine stitched with overlocked seams. Period/Date: 1.8. 1973 Producer/Maker: Nutters Producer Address: 35a Savile Row, W.1. Acquisition Details: On loan from Alistair O’Neill Acquisition Date: Regularly through 2006
Waist: 68 cm. Length: 111 cm.
OBJECT HISTORY: Provenance: The suit was made for Stewart Grimshaw.
Waistcoat (c):
Waist: 70 cm. Length: 56 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposire seam: 45 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 33 cm. Distance between buttonholes. 5 cm.
M ATER IAL (COLOUR /PATTER N, FABR IC): Mouse grey twill woollen fabric with mouse grey bias binding. Grey silk lining.
CONDITION: The suit is in a very good condition except for a stain at the front of the waistcoat.
DESCR IPTION: Jacket:
Front opening with single button fastening (two grey plastic buttons in total). Very wide peacked lapel with a single flowerbuttonhole on the left side. Two flap pockets in each side, one ticket pocket and one patch breast pocket. Full-length sleeves with four buttons on each cuff. Bound keyhole buttonholes made by hand. Single-vented style and fully lined with grey silk. The label has been cut out.
R EFER ENCES: Related Objects: Same model as object 10 and 12
Page 26 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Page 27 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Object 12 –
IDENTIFICATION
Trousers:
Object Number: 12 (a+b+c) Collection: The Tommy Nutter Archive Sex: Male Garment Type: Three-piece suit
Quite high-waisted and wide-legged. One dart in each side of the waist (both at the front and back). Two small ‘hidden’ pockets in the waist. Hidden zipper and hooks. Creases in front and at back. Fully lined. No label inside.
DESCR IPTION Number of components: 3 Jacket (a):
Waist: 74 cm. Length: 79 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposite seam: 42 cm. Length of sleeve from seam under arm: 49 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 43 cm. Top of pocket to base: 35/25 cm. Width of pocket to base: 15 cm. Distance between buttonholes: 10 cm. Trousers (b):
Waist: 69 cm. Length: 114 cm. Waistcoat (c):
Waist: 70 cm. Length: 59 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposire seam: 45 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 33 cm. Distance between buttonholes. 5 cm.
M ATER IAL (COLOUR /PATTER N, FABR IC): Black twill woollen fabric with black silk bias binding. Black silk lining in the jacket, white in sleeves and the waistcoat.
CONDITION: The suit is in a very good condition except for some tear on the bias binding and the hem inside the lining of the waistcoat is rolling.
DESCR IPTION: Jacket:
Front opening with single button fastening (two black plastic buttons in total). Very wide peacked lapel with a single flowerbuttonhole on the left side. Two flap pockets in each side, one ticket pocket and one patch breast pocket. Full-length sleeves with four buttons on each cuff. Bound keyhole buttonholes made by hand. Single-vented style and fully lined. The label has been cut out.
Waistcoat:
Front opening with single button fastening (six black plastic buttons in total). Four patch pockets at the front. Slits in each side. Label inside.
PRODUCTION: Method/Technique: Mainly hand stitched but the lining is machine stitched with overlocked seams. Period/Date: 14.9. 1974 Producer/Maker: Nutters Producer Address: 35a Savile Row, W.1. Acquisition Details: On loan from Alistair O’Neill Acquisition Date: Regularly through 2006
OBJECT HISTORY: Provenance: The suit was made for Stewart Grimshaw.
R EFER ENCES: Related Objects: Same model as object 10 and 11
Page 28 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Page 29 – Cecilie Stöger Nachman – MA Fashion Curation – Contextual Studies – 07.03.2011
Object 13 –
IDENTIFICATION
PRODUCTION:
Object Number: 13 (a+b) Collection: The Tommy Nutter Archive Sex: Male Garment Type: Two-piece suit
Number of components: 2
Method/Technique: Mainly hand stitched but the lining is machine stitched with overlocked seams. Period/Date: 10.7. 1973 Producer/Maker: Nutters Producer Address: 35a Savile Row, W.1. Acquisition Details: On loan from Alistair O’Neill Acquisition Date: Regularly through 2006
Jacket (a):
OBJECT HISTORY:
Waist: 82 cm. Length: 77 cm. Seam under arm across the back to opposite seam: 52 cm. Length of sleeve from seam under arm: 44 cm. Top of shoulder across back to other shoulder: 47 cm. Top of pocket to base: 26 cm. Width of pocket to base: 16 cm. Distance between buttonholes: 9,5 cm.
Provenance: The suit was made for Dickie Kries (?).
DESCR IPTION
Trousers (b):
Waist: 71 cm. Length: 110 cm.
M ATER IAL (COLOUR /PATTER N, FABR IC): Skin coloured woollen twill fabric, silk bias binding and orange silk lining.
CONDITION: Good quality fabric. The suit is in a good condition except for a few stains on the jacket, some fading of the lining and the hook in the trousers is damaged.
DESCR IPTION: Jacket:
Front opening with single button fastening (two mother of pearl buttons in total). Very wide peacked lapel with a single flowerbuttonhole on the left side. Three, slightly rounded, patch pockets . Full-length sleeves with four buttons on each cuff. Bound keyhole buttonholes made by hand. Five big pleats at the back. Fully lined. Label inside. Trousers:
Quite high-waisted and wide-legged which are rolled-up. One dart in each side of the waist (both at the front and back). Two small ‘hidden’ pockets in the waist. Hidden zipper and hooks. Creases in front and at back. Fully lined. Label inside.
R EFER ENCES: Related Objects: -