the
NATURAL
BEAUTY SOLUTION Break Free from Commercial Beauty Products Using Simple Recipes and Natural Ingredients
MARY HELEN LEONARD photography by
Kimberly Davis
Why Go Natural? Your refrigerator is packed with veggies. You have organic grains in the pantry. You’ve cut down on fast food and processed snacks. With regard to what goes into your body, you’re on your way to a healthier lifestyle. Now it’s time to think about what goes on your body. Your cabinet of commercial skincare products probably contains chemical preservatives, synthetic fragrances, and questionable additives in every bottle. With the help of The Natural Beauty Solution, you can make the break from commercial products and take your first steps towards a natural beauty routine that is surprisingly easy, very affordable, and extremely healthy. The Natural Beauty Solution will simplify what you put on your body while making your skin and hair look and feel better—naturally.
the
NATURAL
BEAUTY SOLUTION
Break Free from Commercial Beauty Products Using Simple Recipes and Natural Ingredients
MARY HELEN LEONARD photography by
Kimberly Davis
Text Š 2015 by Mary Helen Leonard
ISBN: 978-1-940611-18-1
Photographs Š 2015 by Kimberly Davis
Library of Congress Control Number: 2015932165
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electric or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without written permission from the author.
Printed in China
Publisher: Paul McGahren Editor: Matthew Teague Designer: Lindsay Hess Photographer: Kimberly Davis Copyeditor: Teresa Dulaney Dewald Indexer: Holly Day Spring House Press 3613 Brush Hill Court Nashville, TN 37216
First Printing: June 2015 The information in this book is presented in good faith; however, no warranty is given, nor are results guaranteed. Your safety is your responsibility. Neither Spring House Press nor the author assumes any responsibility for any injuries or accidents. The following manufacturers/names appearing in The Natural Beauty Solution are trademarks: Environmental Working Group, Jolly Rancher, Blythe Natural Living, Vermont Soap, Austin Natural Soap, Bramble Berry, FDA, INCI, USDA National Organic Program, Artifact Girl, Chapstick To learn more about Spring House Press books, or to find a retailer near you, email info@springhousepress.com or visit us at www.springhousepress.com.
Acknowledgments I’ve always been an overconfident person. I was the
I’d like to thank Sally Ekus, my agent, for taking an
type of kid who would launch herself from boulders
interest in this project and also in me. I knew I wanted
or out of windows, surviving such leaps only by the
to write this book one day, but it took meeting Sally
special grace that preserves fools and little children.
for me to realize that waiting for “one day” wasn’t a
While maturity has granted me with a deeper respect
great plan. Sally gave me the tools I needed to turn a
for my physical well-being, that spirit of reckless
daydream into a goal, and from a goal into a book.
ambition is still very much a part of who I am.
I feel very lucky to have worked with Paul McGahren,
So when the stars aligned to grant me my first baby
Matthew Teague, Lindsay Hess, and Kimberly Davis on
and my first book deal simultaneously, I graciously
this book. From the very start I could tell that we shared
accepted the challenge. I had just eight months to
a vision for how it would all come together. This is my
write my manuscript, and my baby was due smack-
first book, but I imagine it is a rare thing to have the
dab in the middle of it. It turns out I had seriously
author, publisher, editor, designer, and photographer
underestimated how hard it would be to write a book
work together so effortlessly. I’m grateful for the
or to care for an infant, nevermind doing both while
talents, wisdom, and creativity of these people who
holding down a full-time job.
turned my words into paper and pictures.
Lucky for me, that special grace is no longer the only
Thanks to my amazing friends, fellow bloggers,
thing that preserves me. While working on this book I
tweeters, and DIY geniuses. I’m grateful to be part of
was blessed with boundless support from my family,
such a supportive community both locally in Austin
friends, and colleagues. My mother spent countless
and online. And thanks to Nelly for modeling and for
hours bouncing my son on her knee, helping me with
letting us shoot photos in her gorgeous kitchen!
laundry, and making sure I stayed fed. When I say this
Finally, my thanks go out to Jay Basu and Kibby Mitra.
book could not have been written without her help I
I had no idea where my job at From Nature With Love
mean it very literally.
would take me when I showed up in a blizzard for my
My husband was there to cheer me on, even when I
interview back in 2005. They gave me the opportunity
doubted the possibility of making it through this project
to learn and create for a living, and I’ve done my best
with my sanity intact. He believed I could do it, as he
to make the most of it over the years. My head is fit to
seems to believe I can do anything. His faith in me is
burst with the knowledge I’ve gained while writing The
the best gift a girl could ask for.
Natural Beauty Workshop blog, and I’m glad to be able
My sister, Heather, has read this book more times
to share what I’ve learned through this book. Jay and
than anyone (except maybe me) supplying edits,
Kibby have been incredibly supportive of this project,
questions, and a second point of view every step of
both as professionals and as friends.
the way. I was so lucky to have her on my side, offering me her advice and support.
They say that many hands make light work. I’m eternally grateful for every hand involved in the making of this book. Here’s to many more.
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
3
CONTENTS 3 Acknowledgments 7 Introduction: Why Go Natural?
9 Getting Started
21 Building Your Pantry
10 Your First Steps
22 Stocking Up
CHAPTER 1
CHAPTER 2
Cabinet Cleanse
The Importance of Quality
Replace Your Commercial Products
Shopping Smart Ingredient Storage and Shelf Life
Customize your Recipes Keep it Simple
24 The Essential Ingredients
Fresh is Best
Adzuki Bean Powder
Honey
Develop a Routine
Almonds
Hydrosols
Aloe Vera Gel
Rice Bran Powder or Rice Flour
15 Basic Techniques
Apple Cider Vinegar
How to Make Lotions and Creams
Baking Soda
How to Make Hand-Milled Soap
Beeswax and Candelilla Wax
How to Apply a Facial Masque
Carrier Oils Cosmetic Grade Clay Essential Oils Eggs Fruits and Vegetables
Sea Salt and Raw Sugar Soy Lecithin Unscented, Dye-Free, Cold Process Soap Vegetable Butters Witch Hazel Yogurt
37 Choose the Right Ingredients for Your Own Routine
39 Face
65 Body
95 Hair
43 Everyday Recipes
67 Everyday Recipes
98 Everyday Recipes
CHAPTER 3
CHAPTER 4
CHAPTER 5
Oil Cleansers
Hand-Milled Soap Bars
Baking Soda Wash
Washing Grains
Castile Body Wash
Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse
Toners
Body Oil
Rosemary Pale Ale Shampoo Bars
Moisturizing Facial Oils
Body Butter
Coconut Milk Wash
Facial Creams
Body Lotion
Rhassoul Clay Hair Wash
Lip Balms
Sugar and Salt Scrubs
Conditioning Oil Blend
57 Specialty Recipes Deep Cleansing Masque
Deodorant
85 Specialty Recipes
113 Specialty Recipes Egg Yolk Hair Masque
Alpha Hydroxy Facial
Warming Massage Oil
Natural Detangler
Soothing Oat & Avocado Masque
Cuticle Oil
Pomade
Healing Facial Masque
Pedicure Soak
Scrunch Spray
Pedicure Scrub
Dry Shampoo
Almond and Yogurt Body Scrub
122 Appendix 122 Resources 127 Index
Contents chapter
6
•
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
INTRODUCTION
Why Go Natural? A Simple Step Toward Healthier Living
Your refrigerator is packed with fresh veggies.
affordable solution to this issue. Not only will making
You have organic grains in the pantry and have
your own products help you avoid dangerous
made a concerted effort to cut down on things
ingredients—it can help get your skin and hair on
like fast food and processed snacks. You are well
the way to looking and feeling better naturally.
on your way to a healthier lifestyle. But have you
This book is meant to be your companion as
taken a look in your bathroom lately? Commercial
you make the leap into a new beauty routine that
skincare products are produced with some
uses natural ingredients to bring out your body’s
pretty nasty ingredients. Chemical preservatives,
inherent ability for self-care. When you break free
synthetic fragrances, questionable additives, and
from the cycle of over-drying and skin-clogging
controversial ingredients are found in just about
that commercial beauty products create, our
every bottle on the shelf.
bodies have a way of regulating themselves. For
We cover ourselves in this stuff from head to
example, our scalps stop over-producing sebum
toe—often spending quite a bit of money to do so—
(our skin’s natural conditioning oil) just days after
all for the promise of clear skin and lustrous hair.
shampooing is stopped. Over the next few weeks
Yet many times the very products that promise to
sebum production starts and stops as our body
deliver these things are causing irritation, damage,
figures out just how much is needed to protect and
and possibly even illness. Watchdog organizations
condition the hair. Within a year, the scalp settles
such as The Environmental Working Group (www.
in to a natural rhythm that eliminates the need for
ewg.org) do their best to keep track of harmful
additional conditioners or hair oils altogether.
ingredients and fight to have them removed from
Our bodies know what to do to keep our skin
beauty products, but for every ingredient that is
and hair healthy. This book isn’t about adding extra
banned another crops up to take its place.
potions and promises to an already-full world of
Navigating the world of commercial beauty in
beauty products. It’s about simplifying what you
search of products that are both safe and effective
put on your body, encouraging your skin and hair
can be expensive and daunting. Creating your own
to care for itself, and helping to keep it on track
simple products at home is a surprisingly easy and
while it does so.
6 THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
7
1
GETTING STARTED W
hile you are more than welcome to browse through this book and pick out recipes as you please, it is my hope that
you will feel inspired to embrace natural beauty for your entire routine. Just like switching to a healthier diet or beginning an exercise routine, making the leap to natural beauty really is a lifestyle change. In either case, I recommend taking it slow by replacing one product at a time or focusing on one aspect of your routine at a time. The everyday recipes in this book are given in the simplest form possible. You will find options to customize them to suit your particular needs. It’s always a good idea to start off with the basic version of each recipe. Once you see how your skin and hair react to that simple version, you can add or replace ingredients to better suit your needs.
6 9
››
Getting Started chapter 1
•
Most of the ingredients used in the basic versions of the everyday recipes are listed
YOUR FIRST STEPS
in Chapter 2: Building Your Pantry. These
As with any lifestyle change, you may
ingredients are used most often in a
find it easier to give yourself a head start.
standard natural beauty routine. Browse
I suggest kicking things off with a
the ingredients to learn about how they
bathroom cabinet cleanse. This gives you
work, where you can find them, and how
the chance to scrutinize your existing
they should be used.
routine. Next you can develop a plan
I’ve also included specialty recipes in this book that go beyond the essential parts
for replacing your products with new, customized recipes.
of your routine. These recipes use less common ingredients than are found in
Step One: Cabinet Cleanse
Chapter 2, and make a great introduction
Start by taking out all of your skin care,
into more advanced skin care formulation.
hair care, and body care products. Line
Specialty recipes for things like facial
them up, grouped by their purpose. For
masques or pedicure treatments are sort of
example, you might have one group of
like icing on the natural beauty cake. They
hair care products, another for facial care,
aren’t strictly necessary, but they can be
and another for bath and body.
fun. I recommend exploring them after you get your everyday routine worked out.
Go through the products one by one, discarding any that are very old or expired. Consider the products that are left. How
Toxic Beauty Ingredients
often do you use them? How much do you like them? Set aside the products
Parabens Commercial products are formulated to last a very long time. Think about how long products might sit on the store shelf and then how long they are kept in your bathroom cabinet. It takes heavy-duty preservatives to prevent products from becoming overrun with bacteria, mold, and other nasty microbes. Parabens are preservatives commonly used in skin and hair care products. But they have a dark side: According to certain studies, parabens may cause health issues such as endocrine disruption, reproductive toxicity, and immune system toxicity—a high price to pay for shelf-stable products!
that you use most often, and the ones that you enjoy using the most. Make a list of these products so that you’ll know what needs to be replaced. You can use the form provided on page 126 of the Appendix to keep track of the products you’d like to replace. As for the rest, consider passing them on to friends or family before tossing them out. Seek out natural and handmade replacements for products on your list from the resources listed on page 122. Be sure to note how you plan to replace each product. Then use this information to make a shopping list of ingredients you’ll need.
10
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
chapter 1
Step Two: Replace Your Commercial Products A great way to start your natural routine is to continue to use your favorite products until they run out! When you notice your favorite store-bought product running low, gather the ingredients you need to create its homemade replacement. By replacing products one by one you can minimize the expense of starting a new routine and make the process easier. Taking things slowly also gives your body time to adjust to the new products and techniques one at a time, which helps you identify any issues you might run into along the way.
Getting Started
Toxic Beauty Ingredients
Phthalates Phthalates (pronounced “thal-ates”) are a little harder to spot than other toxic beauty ingredients. This is because they are usually found within a fragrance and aren’t listed separately. It takes extra legwork to find out whether or not a store-bought product contains phthalates. Why should you bother to keep an eye out for phthalates? Like parabens, phthalates have possible connections to reproductive toxicity and endocrine disruption. They are also linked to developmental issues, making their safety questionable for pregnant women, nursing moms, kids, babies, and pretty much everyone else.
Keep swapping out products as your commercial items run out. Before you revamped! If you run into any products
Step Three: Customize Your Recipes
that are particularly tough along the way,
As you replace products from your
try reaching out to others in the natural
routine you’ll start to notice what does
beauty community. You’ll find a list of
and doesn’t work for you. Is your skin
blogs, forums, and informational sites in
dry? Is your hair heavier or more oily than
the Resources section.
you’d like? Many of the everyday recipes
know it, your entire routine will be
in this book contain information on customization and troubleshooting. Once your routine is established, it’s a good idea to take a close look at each segment and make any necessary adjustments. If you have a condition such as eczema, psoriasis, or chronic dry skin, pay extra attention to how your skin reacts to new recipes, ingredients, or changes to your routine. If you are under The next time you pick up a bottle of shower gel, take a look at the ingredient list. You may be surprised how many ingredients go into something as simple as liquid soap.
a doctor or dermatologist’s care, discuss your natural beauty plan with them before you get started. THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
11
Getting Started chapter 1
•
Keep it Simple
The best way to safely use homemade
If you do a little searching, you can dig
products is to make them to order. Create
up plenty of recipe books for natural
products in small batches, use them up
beauty. The biggest difference between
quickly, and always try to handle products
this book and many other natural beauty
and ingredients with clean hands.
books is that the recipes in this book are given in their most simplified form. While
Develop a Routine
experimenting with exotic ingredients
Sometimes you have to kiss a few frogs
and complex formulas can be fun,
before you find your Prince Charming.
keeping things simple is the best strategy
Falling in love with your natural beauty
for establishing an everyday routine.
routine could take a little bit of trial and
Everyday skin care and hair care is similar
error as well. Not every recipe or technique
to everyday cooking and eating. The
will work for you right away. Sometimes it
healthiest options often depend on simple
takes a little tweaking and a lot of practice
combinations of high quality ingredients.
to get something to work for you. Other
Quality over quantity matters. For example,
times, you may find that you need a
a great facial oil doesn’t have to contain
different method altogether. As you try
twenty different ingredients: Just one or
different recipes and new ingredients, take
two that work really well will suffice.
note of how your skin and hair react. By continuing to make adjustments along the
Fresh is Best
way you’ll end up creating a routine that is
Commercial beauty products have been
fully customized to your unique needs.
formulated by scientists to remain shelf stable. Mass-produced recipes won’t go bad before their expiration date and are built to withstand direct handling and less than ideal storage. Handmade products don’t have the protection of high-powered preservatives so keeping them fresh depends on proper storing and handling. We aren’t used to thinking of beauty products in the same way that we do food but, the truth is, they are often made from very similar stuff. You wouldn’t want to eat a meal that has been left on the kitchen counter overnight, and a fresh batch of handmade lotion is very much the same.
12
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
Toxic Beauty Ingredients
Sulfates If you look at the label on store-bought shampoo, body wash or bar soap, you are likely to see an ingredient containing the word sulfate. Sulfates are types of detergents and surfactants that help create that rich, bubbly lather that we all love. Unfortunately, they also have a habit of stripping the skin of the beneficial oils that keep it moisturized and protected. People with sensitive skin sometimes have very strong reactions to sulfates. Reactions can result in redness, rashes, and, in extreme cases, bleeding. Sodium Laureth Sulfate (also referred to as SLS) is one of the most common sulfates found in bath and body products, and is one of many sulfate ingredients that can wreak havoc on your skin and scalp.
chapter 1
Most natural beauty recipes are very easy to make. The sugar scrub above can be made by mixing just two ingredients—sugar and oil.
Getting Started
In order to establish a natural beauty
Pay attention to your body. Your skin
routine that really works you need to do
and hair have a way of telling you what
four things:
they need. Paying close attention to how your body reacts to the recipes you use
Give each recipe, ingredient, or method a fair shot. Your skin needs time to
can help clue you in to how they can be
adjust any time you change a routine.
recipes in this book can be used as-is, but
It’s important to let that adjustment
are far more effective when customized
happen before you decide whether or not
to a specific skin type or hair type. No two
something works for you. As a general
people are exactly the same, which can
rule, it’s good to give any change about
make customizing recipes a challenge.
seven days to settle in. There are a few
When it comes to establishing your own
exceptions that I’ll mention along the
routine, you are the best possible person
way. However, if your skin or hair has an
for the job.
adjusted to better suit your needs. The
extreme reaction or if you suspect you might be having an allergic reaction to an
Find a balance that works for you.
ingredient, stop using it right away and
When it comes to natural beauty it’s not
consult your doctor.
all or nothing. Some people like to keep their hair care all-natural, but aren’t ready THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
13
Getting Started chapter 1
•
to give up their favorite facial cream or commercial deodorant. That’s okay! The
Organic Vs. Natural
two worlds don’t have to be mutually exclusive. Any changes you choose to
We hear the words natural and organic a lot—
make will be worthwhile. While there
both in the grocery store and at the beauty
are certain recipes that need to be used
counter. While both words have a similar
together (and I’ll point those out as they
definition in the dictionary, they have very
come along), usually you can pick and
different meanings when found on a label.
choose which portions of your routine to
Organic is a term that the FDA uses to certify
keep all-natural. For example, you might
ingredients produced without chemicals or
choose to cleanse and condition your hair
synthetic materials. Beauty products can be
naturally, but continue to style your hair
completely organic or they can be made with
with commercial gel.
a combination of organic and conventional ingredients. Take a look at the ingredient listing to
Be consistent. The recipes in this book are meant to help you create a whole
The word natural, on the other hand, is not
new way of caring for your skin and hair.
regulated by the FDA and is mostly used as a
Repeatedly switching back and forth
marketing term. It’s generally accepted that a
between handmade and commercial
product marked as natural should contain only
products is likely to wreak havoc—
ingredients found in nature, but exactly how
especially for those methods that involve
close to nature those ingredients are is open
a long adjustment period. Do yourself a
to interpretation. For example, a label might
favor, and do your best not to “cheat” on
use the word natural to describe cocamide
your natural routine.
diethanolamine—a derivative of coconut which
[
is just about as close to a coconut as a Jolly
as k a Y T RAL BEAU
NATU
EXPERT
Q: What inspired
you to start making handmade and natural skin care products?
A: The more I learned about the
power of foods to heal the body, the more I wanted to use some foods directly on my skin. I can see and feel the difference right away, so that kept the inspiration flowing. Blythe Metz,BlytheNaturalLiving.com
14
see how much of the product is actually organic.
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
Rancher is to a watermelon. When it comes to shopping for commercial beauty products, it’s good to take the word natural with a grain of salt. In this book, natural indicates ingredients that are derived from natural sources, like plants.
chapter 1
Getting Started
BASIC TECHNIQUES Most of the recipes in this book are as simple as mixing ingredients in a bowl or shaking them together in a bottle. There are two kinds of recipes that might be a little trickier to pull off. Emulsions (lotions and creams), and bar soap involve some extra steps and sometimes take practice to master. If these kinds of advanced recipes don’t appeal to you, it’s totally ok to cheat by purchasing a ready-made version of any of these basic natural products.
How to Make Lotions and Creams Oils and waters don’t usually mix, so it takes a little extra effort to create a mixture that uses both oil and water in one product. Lotions and creams are made using a technique called emulsion, which disperses water-based ingredients like water, hydrosol, or aloe gel into oils and fats. Emulsion might sound a bit intimidating, but it’s actually a pretty simple process—one that’s also used in the kitchen for salad dressings and sauces. The trick to achieving a stable emulsion, one that won’t separate as soon as it cools down, is to combine the water and oil phases at similar temperatures and then mix them really, really well. Emulsions need to be whisked continuously as they cool. If you try to skip those last few minutes of whisking, the emulsion may fail and leave you with a goopy mess instead of a smooth, creamy lotion.
Toxic Beauty Ingredients
Mineral Oil Mineral oil is a byproduct of petroleum. While it is technically a natural ingredient made from natural minerals, it doesn’t offer the same kind of moisturizing benefits found in high quality plant-based carrier oils. Whether or not mineral oil is actually toxic is uncertain, but there is limited data that links it to cancer and allergy and immune system disruption. Aside from possible risks, mineral oil offers very few benefits beyond being cheap and shelf stable—two qualities that cosmetic companies often value above all else.
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
15
Getting Started chapter 1
•
How to Make Lotions and Creams (continued)
1
During the oil phase, combine the wax, butter and/or carrier oil in a double boiler, and heat until everything is fully melted together.
2 3
During the water phase warm the water-based ingredients in a small pan.
Do your best to make sure that the oil phase and water phase come to the same temperature.
4
Remove the oil phase from the heat and begin to whisk it. Pour the water phase into the oil phase in a slow, steady stream, whisking continuously as you do. An electric hand mixer comes in handy for larger batches.
5
Whisk the mixture for at least five minutes or for as long as it take to cool to room temperature. The mixture will thicken as it cools.
6
Stir in any essential oils that you may be using, then transfer the mixture to clean jars or bottles.
16
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
chapter 1
Getting Started
How to Make Hand-Milled Soap Hand-milling is a great way for beginners
specialty recipes like shampoo bars.
to make their own customized, all-natural
Start off with a high quality bar soap
soaps. The process melts down pre-made
made with pure oils and butters. Castile
soap with ingredients like oils, herbs, and
soap is ideal because it is made from 100%
clays, creating new bars that are totally
olive oil. Some soap making suppliers even
customized—not to mention creamy,
offer a rebatch base, a pre-shredded soap
bubbly, and a pleasure to use.
base made specifically for hand-milling.
In soap making circles, hand-milling is
Avoid using commercial bar soap and
also called rebatching or rebatch soap.
melt-and-pour soap bases as these are
The process starts off by grating natural
made with totally different ingredients,
soap bars into shavings, then melting
making them unsuitable for the hand-
them down with liquids. Additives like
milling process. It’s also important to look
carrier oils, herbs, and essential oils can
for bar soap that doesn’t contain salt. Salt
be added to the melted soap in order to
is often added to natural soaps to harden
create custom recipes. Because the hand-
the bars, but this makes them a real pain
milling process uses a relatively low heat
to melt down. Castile Bars from Vermont
it doesn’t damage fragile ingredients the
Soap, Austin Natural Soap, or castile
way that from-scratch soap making can.
rebatch base from Bramble Berry all work
This makes hand-milling a great choice for
really well. (For contact information see the Resources section on page 122.)
Toxic Beauty Ingredients
Fragrances Did you know that there can be over one thousand components contained in a single ingredient marked as fragrance? Manufacturers aren’t obligated to share their ingredients because their fragrance recipes are considered proprietary. This might not seem like a big deal until you learn more about the kinds of chemicals that can be found in fragrance. Studies have found some pretty nasty stuff—like neurotoxins, allergens, and sensitizers. Specific substances, like phthalates, get called out every now and then but for every ingredient that gets banned or drops out of use there could be many more right behind it. This explains why so many people find themselves sensitive to fragrances in body products, air fresheners, and laundry detergents.
You’ll need a double boiler or a crockpot to make hand-milled soap. Direct heat will burn the soap, and it won’t melt (or set back up) properly once it’s been scorched. The soaps should be poured into molds made of wood or heatproof silicone. Other kinds of molds may be too flimsy to handle hand-milled soap and could melt right along with the soap!
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
17
Getting Started chapter 1
•
How to Make Hand-Milled Soap (continued)
1
Grate the soap into shavings, then combine them in a double boiler or crock pot with liquid (water, beer, etc.).
2
Heat the soap and liquid until the ingredients are fully melted together. Be sure to stir the ingredients often.
3
Remove the ingredients from the heat. Stir in any additives while the mixture is still nice and hot.
4
Pour the melted soap into a silicone or wooden mold lined with wax paper. Allow the soap to cool until it is hard enough to handle. This can take anywhere from 1 to 3 days.
5
Once the soap has hardened, carefully remove it from the mold. If you used a large mold, now is the time to slice it into bars. Set the individual soaps on a drying rack and allow them to cure until fully dried and hardened. This can take anywhere from 1 to 3 weeks.
18
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
chapter 1
Getting Started
How to Apply a Facial Masque While it’s absolutely fine to slap homemade treatments on with reckless abandon, you might be surprised to learn that there is a proper way to apply a facial masque. Whether it's meant to cleanse, soothe, plump, or pamper, these simple application steps can help make the most of your facial.
1 2
Start off with bare skin that is free of any makeups or lotions.
Moisten a washcloth with hot water. It should be hot enough to generate steam, but not so hot that it will scald your face. Be careful not to burn your skin.
3
Drape the washcloth over your face. This will help open your pores, prepping your skin for your homemade treatment. Leave your skin damp or pat it dry according to the directions in your treatment.
4
Scoop the masque into the palm of one hand using a clean spoon or spatula. Using two fingers, gently spread the mixture onto your face in a slow, circular motion. Avoid your eyes, lips, and nostrils. You can also try applying on your masque with a clean paintbrush or makeup brush. Follow the recipe directions on how long to leave the masque on and how to remove it.
Masque Tips
Most masques can be left on for fifteen to thirty minutes. If your masque contains any drying or acidic ingredients like clay or lemon juice, be careful not to leave it on any longer than fifteen minutes. If you find a homemade masque to be too slippery or wet, try adding a dry ingredient like oatmeal, oat flour, rice bran powder or adzuki bean powder. Gentle masques can be used everyday, but any recipes that include drying or acidic ingredients like clay or lemon juice should be limited. Strong clays, like French green, green Illite, rhassoul, and multanni mitti (also known as fuller’s earth) should be used once a week at most.
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
19
2
BUILDING YOUR PANTRY I
t’s easy to get carried away when it comes to building up an ingredient collection. With so many exotic oils and magical
sounding herbs, you can easily find yourself amassing a horde of butters, serums, and elixirs. If you aren’t careful, you may find yourself resembling a medieval apothecary rather than a green living guru. While it can be tempting to procure each and every exciting product that comes along, I recommend keeping your pantry simple, and customized to your own personal needs. Sure, you could end up needing that bottle of Amazonian sacha inchi oil one day, but you probably could have made do with something twice as common and half as expensive such as rose hip seed oil. The following chapter will highlight the most practical and commonly used ingredients for a natural beauty routine.
6 21
››
Building Your Pantry chapter 2
•
STOCKING UP The Importance of Quality
Shopping Smart
It’s important to remember that not all
With natural products growing in
natural ingredients are created equally.
popularity, the market has become
Just because something is natural, doesn’t
saturated with brick-and-mortar and
mean that it was produced with cosmetic
online retailers offering ingredients for
use in mind. Natural minerals are a great
food and cosmetic use. These ingredients
example of the importance of sourcing
are imported from all corners of the
only cosmetic or food-grade ingredients
world, sometimes with strict quality
(rather than industrial-grade) for your
control standards, and sometimes not.
natural beauty routine.
Choose your suppliers wisely. Look for
While it is possible to harvest natural
companies with well-established business
oxides from the earth, these raw minerals
histories and solid reputations for quality
often contain heavy metals, such as lead
and customer service. Check out the list
and arsenic. While lead and arsenic are
of recommended suppliers in the back of
totally natural, you don’t want them in
this book to get started.
your cosmetics. Raw minerals are often
It’s important that the ingredients
used for industrial purposes, while safer
you are working with are pure, natural,
minerals are synthesized or purified in labs
and safe. Whenever possible, choosing
for cosmetic use.
certified organic ingredients is best, as
Beeswax is another great example.
the FDA imposes extra regulations and
Industrial beeswax is produced using
quality standards on certified organic
much lower standards than cosmetic or
ingredients. Never buy an ingredient that
food grade wax. It can include nasty
you aren’t sure is either cosmetic or food
pesticides and toxins, definitely
grade, and always purchase directly from
not the kind of thing you
trusted suppliers or local artisans. If you’re
would want to put in your lip balm.
unsure about the quality or nature of an ingredient, ask questions. Your supplier should always be able to provide you with the INCI (international nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients) or the scientific name and ingredient listing for any products they sell. You can also request documentation, such as certificates of analysis, from most trustworthy suppliers.
22
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
chapter 2
Ingredient Storage and Shelf Life
Building Your Pantry
when ingredients are exposed to air, light, moisture, or extreme temperatures.
Natural cosmetic ingredients should be
As a rule, dry powders should be
treated with the same care as the food
stored in airtight containers in a cool,
in your kitchen. Like food, ingredients
dry place. Fats, like carrier oils and
like vegetable butter, grain powders,
vegetable butters can be stored in sealed
and carrier oils will eventually expire.
containers at room temperature for
Rancidity or oxidation can occur quickly
several months or in the refrigerator for
FAQ
long-term storage. Fragile ingredients with shelf lives of six months or less
What are the Differences Between Ingredient Classifications?
should always be refrigerated.
Organic Ingredients Sourced from growers and manufacturers certified by the USDA National Organic Program Produced without the use of prohibited substances such as chemical pesticides and fertilizers Both food-grade and cosmetic-grade ingredients may also be certified as Organic
change in color, texture, or aroma, it
Food Grade Ingredients Edible ingredients, both fresh and packaged Produced and packaged using food-grade standard set by the FDA Can be eaten or used in skin care and hair care products
also diminish over time, which is why, like
77
Keep a close eye on your ingredients for signs of spoilage. If the ingredients may be a sign that they’ve gone rancid.
77
Rancid ingredients can change pH level,
77
thus damaging to your skin. The nutrients
77 77 77
Cosmetic Grade Ingredients Cosmetics and soap making supplies such as clays, grains, essential oils, vegetable butters, etc. Produced and packaged using cosmetic-grade standards set by the FDA Can be used in skin care and hair care products but should not be eaten
becoming more acidic over time, and and benefits of natural ingredients can food, natural cosmetics are best made in small batches with fresh ingredients. Purchasing ingredients in small quantities will help keep your stock fresh and potent.
77 77 77
Industrial Grade Ingredients Produced for use in industrial products such as paint, building, and machinery. Should never be used in food, skin care, or hair care products.
77 77
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
23
Building Your Pantry chapter 2
•
THE ESSENTIAL INGREDIENTS Adzuki Bean Powder
water-like consistency. Steer clear of
A traditional Japanese beauty ingredient,
aloe vera products with jelly-like textures,
this finely milled bean powder gently
as these probably contain undesirable
exfoliates the skin without drying it out.
additives. When in doubt, check the label
Adzuki bean powder can be used on its
on the packaging. Aloe vera should be
own with plain water to create a simple
the only ingredient listed.
and effective daily cleanser. It can also be blended with cosmetic clays, almond
Apple Cider Vinegar
flour, yogurt, carrier oils, and other natural
In addition to being an excellent
ingredients to create specialty
ingredient in salad dressings, apple
masques and treatments.
cider vinegar is a natural beauty VIP. Buy raw, organic, and unfiltered apple cider
Almonds
vinegar when you can, as this will be by
Finely milled almond
far the most potent type available. When
flour makes a
properly diluted, apple cider vinegar helps
great exfoliant.
to balance skin’s pH, disinfect and tame
It’s gentle enough
troublesome bacteria, and soothe itchy,
for facial cleansers,
irritated skin. It is an essential part of
but sturdy enough
any natural hair care routine, and acts
for body scrubs and
as both a conditioner and detangler.
masques too. Almonds are also rich
In skin care, diluted apple cider vinegar
in calcium and magnesium, both minerals
makes an excellent toner.
that can help skin appear brighter and more healthy.
Baking Soda Sodium bicarbonate, better known as
24
Aloe Vera Gel
baking soda, is a household staple that
[A] lavender buds
Aloe vera is famous for its soothing,
doubles as an indispensable ingredient
[B] turbinado sugar
anti-inflammatory properties. It can be
for any natural beauty routine. Baking
[C] sea clay
used as-is to soothe bug bites, sunburn,
soda is naturally alkaline, while the
[D] rose clay
or mild skin irritations. Aloe vera gel
mixture of sweat and sebum that
[E] almond flour
makes a great substitute for water in
collects on your skin and hair is acidic.
[F] sea salt
toners, lotions, creams, and masques.
The reaction between these two
[G] oatmeal
It can even be used in hair sprays and
substances allows baking soda to
[H] brown rice
body spritzes. Also known as aloe vera
gently cleanse and exfoliate without
[I] white rice
juice, pure aloe vera gel has a thin,
stripping your skin and hair.
[J] rice bran flour
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
chapter 2
Building Your Pantry
A
B
C
E D
G F
I
J
H
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
25
Building Your Pantry chapter 2
•
Beeswax and Candelilla Wax Wax is used to harden balms and salves. It is also use as a main ingredient in emulsions, such as lotions and creams. The two most commonly used waxes for natural skin care are beeswax and candelilla wax. Beeswax is the most common and easiest to use, having a relatively soft and pliable texture.
Rose Hip Seed Oil: This highly
Candelilla is a better choice for vegans, or
moisturizing oil is as light as a feather
those who prefer not to use animal-based
and packed with antioxidants, making
ingredients. It has a much harder texture,
it an excellent base for a facial serums
so recipes often need to be adjusted to
and creams. Rose hip seed oil can also
compensate for that. To make vegan
be used as an additive in facial masques,
creams and lotions, you can use either
body oils, and oil-cleansers.
candelilla wax or emulsifying wax instead of beeswax.
Castor Oil: Castor oil is very thick and greasy. It may not seem like the kind of
Carrier Oils
thing that you would want to put on your
There are about as many carrier oils
face, but it is a key ingredient for the oil
for natural skin care and hair care as there
cleansing method. It’s also a good choice
are stars in the sky. Before you get too
for foot care. Castor oil is too greasy for
overwhelmed by the possibilities, keep in
use as a moisturizing ingredient on the
mind that you only need a few favorites to
rest of your body.
accompany a simple beauty routine.
Watermelon Seed Oil: This miracle Organic Virgin Coconut Oil:
oil has a very pleasant texture that is
The rich, decadent aroma of this oil will
non-greasy, and easily absorbed into
make it very hard to resist. While I am
the skin. Watermelon seed oil is an
often tempted to slather myself in this oil
excellent ingredient to have on hand
from head to toe, I use just a few dabs
for almost any recipe, including scrubs,
as an extra conditioner whenever I wash
lotions, balms, body butters, and hair
my hair. Organic virgin coconut oil is
conditioners. Watermelon seed oil is
moisturizing, but also astringent. Its light
relatively inexpensive compared to other
texture is great for everyday hair care and
specialty oils with similar properties, so
skin care.
I recommend keeping a good amount handy for general use.
26
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
Clockwise from top: rose hip seed oil, watermelon seed oil, tamanu oil.
chapter 2
Building Your Pantry
Apricot Kernel Oil: Another excellent
Cosmetic Grade Clay
oil for daily use, apricot kernel oil is
Clay has the amazing ability to draw
sometimes easier to find than watermelon
out dirt, toxins, and oils from your skin.
seed oil. It makes a great base for almost
This makes it an excellent ingredient for
any recipe, and can be used in both skin
cleansers, masques, and even detoxifying
and hair care products.
baths. Because these ingredients are mineral-based, it is very important to
Avocado Oil: This carrier oil is thicker and
make sure that you only purchase
heavier than watermelon seed oil, but
cosmetic grade clay. Industrial clays can
not nearly as greasy as castor oil, making
contain dangerous heavy metals, such as
it the perfect choice for adding extra
lead and arsenic.
conditioning power to recipes meant for dry skin or dry hair.
Different varieties of clay possess varying strengths, some drawing out much more moisture than others. Keep
Clockwise from top left: pink kaolin clay, dry; pink kaolin clay, wet, sea clay, wet; sea clay, dry.
Jojoba: Scientifically speaking, jojoba is
your skin type in mind when choosing the
actually not an oil but a liquid wax. This
right clays for your pantry. Following, you
unique ingredient mimics your skin’s
will find explanations of the different types
natural sebum almost exactly. Sebum
of clay used in beauty products.
is the natural lubricant and protectant
77 Kaolin is the most gentle family of
your body produces for the hair and skin.
clays, white kaolin, being the mildest
For this reason, Jojoba makes a great
of all. Kaolin can be used on all skin
moisturizer, but just like sebum, jojoba oil
types. Even children and those with
can clog your skin if used too heavily.
sensitive skin can use kaolin clay.
77 Sea clay and Dead Sea clay are a bit stronger, and should be used with more caution. Those with oily skin can use these daily, but others should limit the application of sea clay to weekly masques or occasional treatments.
77 The strongest clays are French green, green Illite, rhassoul, and multanni mitti (also known as fuller’s earth). These clays should be limited to one application per week, and should only be used by those with oily skin.
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
27
Building Your Pantry chapter 2
•
Essential Oils
are pregnant, I recommend consulting a
Essential oils are highly potent, steam-
doctor or aromatherapist before using or
distilled plant extracts. Though completely
handling any essential oils. Check out the
natural, they must be handled and
Resources page to find websites that offer
used with care. Essential oils are used
more information on essential oil safety.
medicinally by aromatherapists. Like any
While there are thousands of essential
medicine, these natural chemicals can be
oils available, I tend to lean on a handful
harmful if used improperly. It’s important
of favorites. Choose one or two that suit
to research any essential oil before using
your skin type, and invest in small bottles
it in your routine. You’ll need to determine
of high quality oil.
its recommended dilution, and check to see if the oil has any restrictions for use.
Rose Essential Oil: The ultimate oil for
Certain essential oils can be disruptive to
mature skin care, rose essential oil is
medical conditions like pregnancy, high
treasured for its ability to help soothe and
blood pressure, or epilepsy.
soften. Rose essential oil is soothing to all
As a rule, any essential oil you are working with should be diluted to around
skin types, and is an excellent addition to any of your most precious facial recipes.
1–3% for use in skin care. That means that the oil needs to be blended with a carrier
Geranium Essential Oil: Geranium
oil to be used directly, or used in very small
essential oil makes a great alternative to
proportions in recipes and formulations.
rose essential oil and is far less expensive.
It's important to note that essential
It can still help balance skin pH, fight
oils should be used with extreme
fine lines and wrinkles, and benefit facial
care on children and babies. Kids and
recipes. Though any variety of geranium
babies can't process the chemicals in
essential oil will do, my personal favorites
essential oils as easily as adults. If you
are rose geranium and geranium bourbon.
FAQ
Should My Ingredients Be Organic? Purchasing organic ingredients for skin care whenever possible is ideal if you can manage it. If not, keep in mind that some ingredients carry a heavier load of pesticides, antibiotics, and other nasty bits than others. If you pick and choose which items to buy organic, go with fresh dairy, berries, and soft fruits. Carrier oils, butters, and other ingredients come in organic
28
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
varieties, but choosing organic with these ingredients may not be as crucial. If prices are comparable, go for it. But if choosing organic pushes natural beauty beyond your budget, stick with conventional ingredients. Like shopping for groceries, the decision between buying organic and conventional ingredients comes down to personal preference.
Essential oils should always be stored in glass or stainless steel containers. These potent ingredients can dissolve plastic and eat through rubber.
chapter 2
Building Your Pantry
Helichrysum Essential Oil: Helichrysum
FAQ
essential oil is expensive, but a worthwhile
Will I Save Money Using a Natural Routine? That really depends on how much you are already spending on store-bought products. Considering that a bottle of shampoo can cost anywhere from one dollar to over twenty dollars, it’s safe to say that the cost comparison will vary from person to person. That being said, most of the ingredients in these recipes are relatively affordable, with the exception of certain essential oils or carrier oils that come a bit more dear. Replacing your products one at a time is a good way to keep the cost of switching to a natural routine easier to manage. If you were to buy all the ingredients listed in this book at once, you’d be looking at a pretty hefty price tag.
investment for those fighting acne. It not only possesses potent antibacterial and antifungal properties, it can help reduce scarring. Helichrysum essential oil's restorative properties also make it a good choice for mature skin.
Niaouli Essential Oil: Niaouli essential oil is a close relative to tea tree essential oil, an ingredient commonly used to combat acne. While both boast potent antibacterial properties and are excellent for acne-prone and combination skin, niaouli essential oil is more gentle on
Neroli Essential Oil: Neroli essential oil
the nervous system and overall health. I
is another great choice for facial care.
recommend using niaouli essential oil in
Like rose essential oil and geranium
place of tea tree essential oil in recipes.
essential oil, it helps to balance skin’s moisture. Which of the three you choose
Peppermint Essential Oil: I use
mostly depends on budget and personal
peppermint essential oil in almost all of
preference. Personally, I adore the smell
my lip balm recipes. The hint of cooling
of neroli essential oil. It is made from
mint will make your lips tingle. That
orange blossoms, giving it a delightfully
stimulating feeling can also benefit tired
sweet and floral scent.
muscles in your feet, legs, and hands. A word to the wise though: a little
Roman Chamomile Essential Oil: Roman
peppermint essential oil goes a long way,
chamomile essential oil is very effective
so go easy with this particular essential
at soothing itchy, red skin. It also has a
oil. By the way, do not use peppermint
calming effect emotionally, which as far
essential oil with babies or toddlers.
as side effects go, is not too shabby.
Rosemary Essential Oil: Rosemary is a Yarrow Essential Oil: Another great
popular essential oil in haircare recipes
essential oil for soothing inflamed skin,
because it encourages a healthy balance
yarrow is also slightly astringent, making it
of oils in the scalp. It is believed to
a good choice for oily or combination skin.
discourage dandruff, soothe inflammation, and may even stimulate hair growth. THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
29
Building Your Pantry chapter 2
•
Eggs As far as old wives’ tales go, slathering one’s head in mayonnaise to get gorgeous, shining locks, is actually not a bad idea. The cholesterol contained in eggs can help reinforce damaged hair, and its natural lecithin provides shine and luster. While the mayonnaise in your refrigerator does contain some of these benefits, a fresh-made emulsion of organic eggs, nutritive carrier oil, and apple cider vinegar is so much better. You can even dress up this homemade hair
FAQ
Are the Recipes in this Book Edible? While most of the ingredients used in this book are technically edible, you probably wouldn’t want to eat them. For one thing, cosmetic ingredient suppliers are seldom set up to repackage their products as food grade. While the practices used to handle cosmetics are perfectly safe, they aren’t held to the same standards as facilities licensed to handle food. Certain ingredients, like essential oils, clay, and castile soap—really shouldn’t be eaten, anyway. If you find yourself getting hungry while reading this book, head for the kitchen—not your skin care stash.
mayo with a beneficial essential oil.
Fruits and Vegetables
Cucumber: We’ve all seen ladies in spa
I love using fresh produce in homemade
commercials relaxing with cucumber
skin care treatments. Keep in mind
slices over their eyes. Cucumbers are
that whenever you incorporate fresh
great for soothing skin because they are
ingredients, like fruits, veggies, herbs,
naturally cooling and anti-inflammatory.
and dairy products, your recipes should
Cucumber contains a bounty of
be used up right away. Sometimes you
antioxidant and is mildly astringent,
can get away with storing leftovers in the
meaning it can help to balance skin’s
fridge for a few days. Generally, these
moisture levels. Cucumbers are a classic
kinds of recipes are best when fresh.
ingredient for masques, but they can also be used to reduce puffiness and increase
Berries: Strawberries, raspberries,
circulation anywhere on your body.
and blackberries are packed with alphahydroxy acids. These gentle acids help
Fresh Herbs: You can kick up your
dissolve sebum, and slough off dead skin
masques and scrubs by including
cells, making skin look glowing and bright.
pureed herbs. Spearmint, chamomile, and marigold can be added to soothing
Banana: Mashed banana contains a lot
recipes for their cooling and anti-
of vitamin B, which can help reduce
inflammatory benefits. Herbs like basil,
redness and inflammation. Use bananas
lavender, and lemon balm can be used
in soothing and moisturizing masques.
to help fight acne.
Banana"s high potassium levels can also help balance your skin’s pH level.
30
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
chapter 2
Fresh herbs, fruits, vegetables, and dairy products contain active ingredients that can be highly beneficial in homemade beauty products.
Building Your Pantry
Honey
Hydrosols
One of nature’s most amazing
Hydrosols are a byproduct that is created
wonder-foods, honey contains natural
when essential oils are made. Essential
antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and
oils are steam distilled. When a batch is
antifungal properties. This makes it an
completed, the leftover steam is collected
excellent tool for skin care. Honey can
and bottled as hydrosol. Like essential
be used to cleanse, soothe, and heal
oils, hydrosols contain natural chemicals
troubled skin. It’s unique combination of
that can be used to benefit beauty and
soothing and healing properties makes it
aromatherapy treatments. However,
especially beneficial to combination skin
hydrosols are much milder than essential
types. Those with normal, sensitive, or
oils, and can be used more liberally than
acne-prone skin can also benefit from the
their potent counterparts.
inclusion of honey in soaps, cleansers, and masques.
Don’t be surprised if the hydrosols you use don’t smell exactly how you might THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
31
Building Your Pantry chapter 2
32
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
•
chapter 2
Building Your Pantry
very diluted, and the most recognizable
Rice Bran Powder or Rice Flour
scents from the plants used to make them
Rice bran powder and rice flour are
often end up in their twin essential oils
gentle, non-drying exfoliants and are
instead. Hydrosols make excellent toners
often easier to find than adzuki bean
and are fabulous in masques, cleansers,
powder. They can be mixed with water or
and rinses. Try to keep one or two types
hydrosol for use as a cleanser or added
that that correspond to your skin and
to masques, scrubs, and other recipes for
beauty routine.
cleansing or exfoliating your skin.
Rose or Rose Geranium Hydrosol: If you
Sea Salt and Raw Sugar
invest in only one hydrosol, make it rose.
With salt and sugar, nature has provided
Rose water is a classic beauty ingredient for
two of the most perfect body exfoliants.
good reason. It can be used from head to
Look for a fine to medium grain size for
toe and is especially beneficial to mature
scrubs, body polishes, and most any other
skin. If rose hydrosol is too pricey, look for
skincare recipe. In addition to being an
rose geranium hydrosol instead. It tends to
excellent exfoliant, sea salt contains a
be less expensive and can replace rose.
bounty of healthy minerals that can help
expect. These water-based distillations are
improve skin’s circulation and soothe skin
Chamomile or Yarrow Hydrosol: Both of
conditions like eczema and psoriasis. Raw
these hydrosols are perfect for soothing
sugar also contains healthy mineral content
itchy, irritated, or inflamed skin. They work
and provides gentle exfoliation for sensitive
well for dry skin, combination skin, or
or irritated skin. Raw sugar can also be
conditions like eczema or psoriasis.
used to create DIY hair removal treatments.
Neroli Hydrosol: This particular hydrosol is a luxury, pure and simple. It has a beautiful aroma, and like rose hydrosol, can help to balance skin and lift spirits.
Witch Hazel or Lavender Hydrosol: Most carrier oils can be used directly on the skin and hair to provide instant moisture. Hydrosols make excellent toners, body sprays, and hair spritzes.
If you have acne prone skin or
[ as k a Y T RAL BEAU
NATU
EXPERT
Q:
Which ingredients do you use most in your DIY routine? Do you have a favorite?
A: I cannot live without honey, lemon,
hydrosols contain both antibacterial and
and sea salt. They are three of my favorite things. I always like to add these ingredients whenever I can. Not only are these ingredients great, but most people already have them in their home. They just fix everything!
anti-inflammatory properties, making
Narae Kim, Artifactgirl.com
combination skin, keeping a hydrosol on hand with disinfecting properties is a good idea. Both lavender and witch hazel
them not only healing, but also soothing. THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
33
Building Your Pantry chapter 2
•
Soy Lecithin
Vegetable Butters
[A] natural bar soap
Lecithin is a thick, gooey substance that
Vegetable butters are far thicker and
[B] white beeswax
is often used as an additive in not only
heavier than carrier oils, and are used to
[C] yellow beeswax
skin care ingredients, but also junk food.
provide intense moisture to body and
[D] candelilla wax
You may recognize the scent of lecithin
skin care recipes. While most vegetable
[E] emulsifying wax
from the suspiciously soft and pliable
butters are too thick for facial use, they
[F] cacao beans
caramel in candy bars. While lecithin is
are excellent ingredients for lip care, foot
[G] cocoa butter
great for assisting natural emulsions and
care, dry hair types, and all-over body care.
improving the texture and adhesion in lip
Like carrier oils, there are plenty to choose
[H] organic virgin coconut cream oil
balms, you won’t catch me taking a bite.
from, but a few favorites will suffice in
Lecithin is used in very small quantities in
building a well-stocked beauty pantry.
[I] shea butter [J] castile bar soap, whole and shredded
skin care recipes.
Shea Butter: This classic beauty
Unscented, Dye-Free Cold Process Soap
ingredient comes in several varieties. Raw
Soap can be a champion in recipes
but it has a very strong aroma that doesn’t
because it can grab on to water and oil
sit well with everyone. Refined shea butter
at the same time. Soap encapsulates dirt,
is nearly odorless and colorless, and tends
bacteria, and oil, and then rinses it away.
to be easier to work with than raw shea
It’s the best way to remove dangerous
butter. If possible, try to get your hands on
bacteria from skin without harming the
organic shea butter, or better yet, organic
helpful microorganisms. Soap is a useful
nilotica shea butter, a particularly rich and
ingredient in a number of basic skin care
creamy variety that I adore.
shea butter is touted as the most effective,
and hair care recipes, so I always keep a bit of natural, unscented, cold process
Cocoa Butter: Pure cocoa butter has a
soap on hand.
very characteristic aroma that you will
Cold process soap is made by saponifying raw oils and fats with lye and water. Though lye is extremely caustic, it evaporates from the soap as it cures. Cold process soap can be made in an endless variety of recipes, and can include both natural and synthetic ingredients. For your pantry, look for an all-natural, unscented soap. Castile, a traditional olive-based soap, is ideal for building other recipes. It can be purchased or handmade in both bar and liquid form.
34
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
FAQ
Should I Be Concerned About Allergies? Consider allergies before working with particular natural ingredients. If you have a nut allergy, for instance, you may have a reaction to sweet almond oil or even shea butter, which also comes from a nut. Those with latex allergies may be sensitive to shea or cocoa butter, which contain natural latex proteins. When in doubt, consult an allergist.
chapter 2
Building Your Pantry
A
F
B
C
D
E
G
H J
I
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
35
Building Your Pantry chapter 2
•
instantly recognize as the rich, creamy
Yogurt
chocolate of your dreams. This super-
You might remember the old stories
hard butter is an intense conditioner, but a
of bathing beauty queens in buttermilk
bit on the greasy side. While cocoa butter
before a big pageant. Lactic acid, which
can certainly be enjoyed as-is, I usually
is found in milk, yogurt, and other dairy
like to blend it with something lighter, like
products, can help to brighten dull skin
watermelon seed oil or shea butter.
by gently exfoliating dead cells from your skin’s surface. Soaking in milk is actually
Witch Hazel
an excellent way to smooth, soften, and
Witch hazel is a water soluble extract
polish your skin. There are few exfoliants
derived from a plant valued for its
as gentle or as soothing as dairy.
medicinal properties. It makes an excellent
My top choice for homemade beauty
toner and wetting agent for masques
recipes is plain, full-fat organic yogurt.
and cleansers, having both soothing and
The thick consistency and active cultures
astringent properties. Witch hazel can also
make it a wonderful masque as-is. It
help disinfect the skin, making it ideal for
can also be mixed with mashed berries,
combination or acne-prone skin types.
cosmetic clays and herbs to create
Witch hazel is most commonly available
masques, body scrubs, and cleansers.
in an alcohol base. That variety works fine, but can be a bit drying. If you can find it. try using witch hazel hydrosol, which is usually alcohol-free.
Borax Borax is a synthetic ingredient, but it’s
emulsion to work without borax, its
necessary for creating stable emulsions
absence makes the process much
in natural lotion and cream recipes. It’s
more fussy and unpredictable. If you
a type of mineral salt technically named
are opposed to using borax, another
sodium borate, and it’s used to soften
alternative for easy emulsion is to
the waters in lotion recipes in order to
replace the beeswax, lecithin, and borax
reduce surface tension and encourage
in these recipes with emulsifying wax.
emulsion. Basically, borax helps make
Emulsifying wax is a plant-based wax
sure that handmade creams and lotions
that contains a special alcohol to aid in
don’t separate after they cool. While
stabilizing lotion and creams recipes.
you can sometimes get a handmade
36
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
chapter 2
Building Your Pantry
CHOOSING THE RIGHT INGREDIENTS FOR YOUR OWN ROUTINE While this list might seem awfully long,
When you are getting ready to use the
keep in mind that you’ll only need to
recipes in this book, refer back to this
invest in the ingredients that match your
chapter to find the ingredients that will
skin type and routine. Everyone’s skin
suit you best. If you aren’t sure which
and hair is slightly different, which is why
to pick, I recommend choosing the
creating your own customized beauty
ingredients best suited to sensitive or
routine can have such wonderful effects.
mature skin. Those ingredients tend to work well for everyone.
FAQ
It can also help to purchase small
What kind of tools and equipment do I need to get started?
quantities of ingredients when you
Most recipes in this book can be made with nothing more than a spoon and mixing bowl, but there are a few that require extra tools. A double boiler is a special kind of pot that allows ingredients to melt at a lower temperature than they would in a regular saucepan. Using one is the best way to melt butters, waxes, and solid oils as the lower heat won’t damage the ingredients. Having a blender or a food processor handy helps make mixing up fresh masques as easy as making a smoothie. An electric hand-mixer takes the pain out of whipping up body butters, creams, and lotions that require extended whisking. If you get into soap making, you’ll need a sturdy metal grater and a wooden or silicone soap mold. Pipette droppers are great for dispensing small amounts of essential oils into handmade recipes. Tiny droppers can be purchased online from most craft or soap making supply sites. Collecting small bottles, jars, and canisters to hold your handmade products can be as much fun as making them. Look for small containers in food or cosmetic grade plastic, glass, and stainless steel.
You may need to try a few different
77
first get started. Natural beauty can sometimes require experimentation. ingredients before discovering your favorite. Try to embrace this particular part of the challenge by allowing yourself to have fun and be creative.
77 77 77 77 77
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
37
3
FACE A
s far as beauty goes, facial care is pretty high on the priority list. Who hasn’t wrestled with issues like acne, dryness, or irritation?
While there are hundreds, if not thousands, of commercial products out there that promise relief from these common skin care challenges, the ingredients used in these products often do more to exacerbate the issues than help. Harsh detergents like sodium laurel sulfate and chemical-based additives, like silicone and parabens can leave skin irritated and with an unbalanced pH. Luckily, replacing your commercial facial care products can be surprisingly simple. In fact, facial care is usually the first area that I recommend for switching over to a totally natural and do-it-yourself routine. Simple cleansers and natural moisturizers made from whole ingredients can help your skin learn to balance itself naturally. A basic natural beauty routine should consist of an everyday cleanser, a toner, and a moisturizer. These three products are all you really need to keep your skin looking great on a regular basis. Adding special recipes, like masques and facial
6 39
››
face chapter 3
•
treatments is a great way to take your
own moisture levels. You also will have
skin care regimen one step further. I’d
the comfort of knowing that you are no
recommend starting your transition to
longer exposing your body to toxic dyes,
an all-natural routine by replacing your
preservatives, and additives. Looking better
cleanser first, followed by your toner,
and feeling better—what’s not to love?
then your moisturizer. Transitioning in steps will give your skin time to
What to Expect
adjust while making the process less
Even once you find the best recipe and
overwhelming for you as well.
method for your needs, you may go through an adjustment period while your
Getting Started
skin gets used to the new routine. Part
Determining the approach to natural
of what makes natural skin care great is
skin care for your particular skin type
that the gentle ingredients help your skin
will involve a little trial and error. It takes
relearn how to keep itself well-conditioned.
time and practice to identify the natural
It can take time for your skin to learn
ingredients and perfect a technique that
exactly how much sebum to produce once
works best for your skin. It's important
it is no longer stripped by harsh detergents
to keep in mind that different parts of
on a daily basis. At first you may experience
your body may have different skin types.
an overproduction of oil or a period of
Someone could have a dry scalp, oily skin
dryness. For this reason, give a new skin
on their back, and combination skin on
care method two to three weeks before
their face.
deciding whether or not it works for you.
This chapter features two different methods for both cleansing and moisturizing the skin on your face. The first is an overview of the Oil Cleansing Method, which uses carrier oils to remove sebum from within the pores. The second offers exfoliation through use of a simple grain-based scrub. I recommend giving each method a try before settling on your favorite. And don’t be afraid to experiment! If something isn’t working for you, swap out an ingredient and try it again. Once you settle into a natural routine that suits you well, your skin should respond by becoming clearer, less prone to redness, and better able to regulate its
40
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
Personal Stories
Is My Face Red? I’ve battled redness and irritation since I was a teenager. Before I started my natural skincare routine I spent a small fortune on products marketed for sensitive skin. No matter what I tried, the redness never faded and I began to believe that I was destined to spend the rest of my life piling on makeup to try to hide my splotchy skin. It wasn’t until I discovered adzuki bean powder that I saw a real improvement. By cutting out the harsh detergents in even the most benign commercial face washes I ended the cycle of over-drying and aggravating my sensitive skin. When I added a facial oil with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial ingredients, my skin began to clear up completely.
chapter 3
face
The Oil Cleansing Method If washing your face with oil sounds crazy
gooey carrier oil, acts as the base for all
to you, don’t worry—you are not alone.
oil-cleansing recipes. This super-greasy and
The commercial beauty industry has put a
sticky oil does a great job of grabbing on
lot of effort into making oil sound like the
to excess dirt and oil—maybe too great of
enemy. Oil-free cleansers and moisturizers
a job. Castor oil’s intensity is mellowed out
are extremely popular as a result.
by being blended with light, moisturizing
Considering that soap-based cleansers
carrier oils, such as rosehip seed oil,
are meant to remove oil from your skin,
watermelon oil, or avocado oil. You can
adding oil to get your face clean seems
customize your oil cleanser by choosing a
totally counterintuitive. Despite how
carrier oil that suits your skin type, and by
wacky this concept may sound at first,
adjusting the ratio of castor oil in the blend.
the oil-cleansing method actually works really well for most people! The method is founded on the concept
It’s important to note that though this cleanser is made entirely of oil, in some cases it can leave the skin feeling quite
that like removes like. Soap and detergents
dry. Other users find that their skin remains
can scour the surface of your skin,
perfectly moisturized after oil cleansing.
removing every last drop of moisture
I always recommend following any cleanser
(including the good stuff) but they have
with a toner. Toners help balance the
a hard time reaching beneath the surface,
skin's pH and remove any leftover residue
into your skin’s pores, where excess sebum
the cleanser may leave behind. Using a
and bacteria can build up. Those clogged
moisturizer is totally optional—especially
pores can result in acne, redness, uneven
with the oil cleansing method. You may
skin texture, or even infections. Oil, on
also find that you don’t need to use this
the other hand, can dissolve the sebum
cleanser on a daily basis. Unless you wear
in those backed up pores, keeping them
makeup, using the cleanser two or three
healthy and clean.
times per week is often more than enough.
Of course, you can’t use just any oil with this method. Castor oil, a thick and
On off days, simply rinse your face with warm water.
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
41
face chapter 3
42
•
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
chapter 3
face
everyday recipe
OIL CLEANSERS These basic oil cleanser recipes can be customized by adjusting the ratio of castor oil to other carrier oils. The more castor oil the recipe contains the more aggressive its cleansing power. For a less-drying blend, reduce the amount of castor oil. You can also swap out the other carrier oils with specialty ingredients that are well-suited to your skin type.
Optional Add-Ons
MATURE SKIN
ACNE-PRONE SKIN
SENSITIVE SKIN
Argan Oil Evening Primrose Oil Pomegranate Seed Oil
Neem Oil Perilla Seed
Oat Oil Raspberry Seed Oil Tamanu Oil
INGREDIENTS For normal skin:
AA2 tablespoons castor oil AA1/4 cup rose hip seed oil For dry skin:
HOW TO USE Start by running a clean washcloth under hot water. Keep the water as hot as you can while still feeling comfortable—you don’t want to burn yourself. Ring out the washcloth and place it over
AA1 tablespoon castor oil AA1/4 cup and 1 tablespoon rose hip seed oil AA2 tablespoons avocado oil AA2 tablespoons jojoba oil
your face for about thirty seconds. Remove the
For oily skin:
for a minute or two. Run the washcloth under the
AA3 tablespoons castor oil AA1/4 cup and 3 tablespoons rose hip seed oil
washcloth, then drop about two teaspoons worth of oil cleanser into your palm, and then gently massage it onto your face and neck in a slow, circular motion. Continue to massage your skin hot water again, ring it out, and steam your face again for about ten seconds. Gently wipe the oil from your face, then repeat the steaming process
DIRECTIONS Combine the oils in a 4–8 ounce bottle and shake well.
two to three more times, or as many times as you feel you need to in order to remove all of the oil cleanser. Follow the cleanser with a toner, and if necessary, a moisturizer.
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
43
face chapter 3
44
•
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
chapter 3
face
everyday recipe
WASHING GRAINS Washing grains are incredibly simple to make and easy to use, making them a great first step into natural skincare. Washing grains work by gently exfoliating your skin while soaking up excess oil and scrubbing away dirt and grime. They are fabulous for all skin types, gentle enough to be used daily, and an excellent addition to any skin care routine. Even if you prefer using a different method for everyday cleansing, washing grains provide a great way to give your skin weekly or monthly exfoliation. This recipe is one of the simplest, and most easy to use recipes that you’ll find in this book. Adzuki bean powder is a gentle exfoliant, so this recipe can be used as an everyday cleanser. If you are using the oil cleansing method, or another daily facial care routine, this scrub can be used as an occasional treatment on a weekly or monthly basis. The basic recipe works well for almost all
Troubleshooting
skin types, and can easily be tailored to your specific needs.
77 For dry and sensitive skin, try using kaolin clay and a soothing essential oil like roman chamomile or yarrow.
77 For mature skin, you can use either kaolin or sea clay. Choose a balancing essential oil, such as rose or geranium.
77 If you have oily or acne-prone skin, use sea clay and a 50/50 blend of niaouli and a soothing essential oil such as roman chamomile or yarrow.
Rosacea Rosacea is a mysterious condition where the skin’s blood vessels dilate, causing chronic redness of the skin. In some cases, it can be hard to distinguish between regular sensitive skin and rosacea. Rosacea is a case of blood vessels being overly sensitive, and while the exact cause is unknown, the condition seems to be more complex and deeply rooted than simply having a sensitive skin type. Some experts believe that certain cases of rosacea may be caused or aggravated by an imbalance in digestive bacteria. Other theories contend that rosacea is a genetic condition. If you find that your skin’s redness doesn’t improve with the use of a natural skin care routine or respond to anti-inflammatory ingredients, you may want to consult a dermatologist regarding the possibility of rosacea.
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
45
Appendix
Worksheet:
MY BATHROOM CABINET CLEANSE COMMERCIAL PRODUCT
Copies of this worksheet available at springhousepress.com.
126
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
NATURAL REPLACEMENT
DONE
A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A
Index
INDEX alcohol, 36, 51, 53, 66, 77 allergies, 13, 15, 34, 50 aloe vera gel, 24, 67, 71, 107, 119 alpha-hydroxy acids, 30, 59 aluminum, 83 ammonia, 117 antibacterials, 29, 31, 33, 40, 46, 91 anti-inflammatories, 29-31, 33, 40, 45, 50, 61 antifungal treatments, 29, 31, 46, 53 apple cider vinegar, 24, 30, 98-103, 105, 107, 109, 113-114 arsenic, 22, 27 Artifactgirl.com, 33 astringents, 26, 29-30, 36 Austin Natural Soap, 17, 67, 69, 103 baking soda, 24, 46, 83-84, 98-99, 101-102, 105, 107 balms, 22, 26, 29, 75; Everyday Recipe Lip Balm, 55 beer, 67, 103, 105 beeswax, 22, 26, 34-36, 53, 55, 75-76, 78, 84, 117 blahblahmagazine.com, 63 BlytheNaturalLiving.com, 14 body spritzes, 24 borax, 36, 53, 78 bug bites, 24 butters, 83; cocoa, 34-37, 55, 78; Body Butter, 75-77; organic virgin coconut cream oil, 34-35; shea, 34, 36, 55, 67, 76, 78; storing, 76; vegetable, 23, 34-36, 69, 75; whipped, 75-76 cabinet cleanse, 10, 126 calcium, 24 candelilla wax, 26, 34-35, 53, 55 candida, 53 carrier oils, 17, 24, 26-28, 41, 69, 73, 85; apricot kernel, 27, 67, 73, 76, 78, 81, 85,
111, 117; argan, 43, 49, 51; avocado, 27, 41, 43, 50, 55, 61, 67, 71, 73, 78, 87, 91, 96, 105, 107, 111, 113-114; castor, 26-27, 41, 43; evening primrose, 43, 49, 51; jojoba, 27, 43, 50, 55, 105, 107, 109, 111, 113114, 117; karanja, 46, 49, 51, 63, 84, 91; neem, 43, 46, 51, 53, 63, 67, 91; oat, 43, 49, 51; organic virgin coconut, 26, 34, 50, 67, 73, 84, 96, 98, 111, 113114, 117; perilla seed, 43, 49, 51, 63; pomegranate, 43, 49-51; raspberry seed, 43, 49, 51; rose hip seed, 26, 41, 43, 50-51, 53, 111, 113-114; tamanu, 26, 43, 49, 51; watermelon seed, 26-27, 36, 41, 50, 73, 76, 78, 81, 85, 96, 111 Castile Rebatch Base from Brambleberry, 17, 67, 103 clay, cosmetic, 19, 23-25, 27, 30, 36, 46, 69; bentonite, 84; Dead Sea, 27; French green, 19, 27, 57, 67; green Illite, 19, 27; kaolin, 27, 45, 57, 59, 63, 67, 103, 105, 121; multanni mitti/fuller’s earth, 19, 27; rhassoul, 19, 27, 103, 105, 107, 109; rose, 24-25; sea, 24-25, 27, 45, 63, 67 cocamide diethanolamine, 14 cocoa powder, 121 coconut milk, 93, 107 cornstarch, 84, 121 cosmetic grade ingredients, 23, 27, 37 dandruff, 29, 101, 115 deodorant, 83; commercial, 14; homemade, 65, 83-84 Dr. Bronner’s, 69 eczema, 11, 33, 50 eggs, 30, 50, 113-114 emulsifying wax, 26, 34-36 emulsion, 15, 26, 30, 34, 36, 51, 61, 77, 144
endocrine disruption, 10-11, 117 (The) Environmental Working Group, 7 essential oils, 16-17, 23, 2831, 46, 76, 78, 83; black pepper, 85; chamomile, 30, 45, 47, 49, 51, 57, 61, 67, 71; geranium, 28-29, 45, 49, 51, 57, 71, 77, 93; geranium bourbon, 28; ginger, 85; helichrysum, 29, 49, 51, 57; lavender, 67; masculine scents, 83; neroli, 29, 73, 75, 77, 81, 83, 117; niaouli, 29, 45, 46, 49, 51, 53, 57, 63, 67, 71, 84, 87, 89, 91; peppermint, 29, 55, 67, 71, 73, 77, 81, 91, 107, 109; roman chamomile, 29, 45, 73; rose, 28-29, 45, 49, 51, 57, 67, 71, 73, 7778, 81, 83, 93, 117; rose geranium, 28; rosemary, 29, 105, 107, 113-114; tea tree, 29; yarrow, 29, 45, 49, 51, 57, 61, 67, 71, 73; ylang ylang, 83 ethanolamine, 117 exfoliants, 33, 40, 45, 81, 91, 93; adzuki bean powder, 19, 24, 33, 40, 45-46, 67; almond flour/meal, 24, 67, 93; chickpea flour, 93; coffee, 67; oats, rolled, 67 Fabry, Andrea, 102 facial cleansers, 24, 31, 33, 36, 39; Alpha Hydroxy Facial, 59; Facial Cleanser, 46; storing, 59; vegan, 59 facial cream, 14-15, 46, 50; basic recipe, 15-16, 51-53, 61; how to make, 15-16 facial masques, 19, 24, 26-27, 30-31, 33, 36, 37, 39-40; Deep Cleansing Masque, 57; Healing Facial Masque, 46, 63; how to use, 19; Soothing Oat & Avocado Masque, 61 FDA, 14, 22
foot care, 26, 34 fragrances, synthetic, 7, 17, 50-51, 55, 61, 66, 78, 81, 83, 89, 103 fruits and vegetables, 30; bananas, 30; berries, 30, 59; cucumbers, 30; lemon juice, 19, 33, 117; herbs, 17, 30, 36 ginger powder, 63 grains, 23, 57; scrub, 40; Washing Grains, 45-46 hair care, 12, 23-24, 26-27, 30; Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse, 98-103, 109; Baking Soda Wash, 98-99, 101, 107; Clay Hair Wash, 109; Coconut Milk Wash, 107; Conditioning Oil Blend, 111; Dry Shampoo, 121; Pale Ale Shampoo Bars, 103-105; Egg Yolk Hair Masque, 113-114; four steps to healthier hair, 97; routine, 24, 66; Natural Detangler, 115; Pomade, 117; Scrunch Spray, 119; storing, 107, 109, 114-115 hair, coloring, 117 (The) Herb Bar theherbbar. com, 66 honey, 31, 33, 63, 67, 69, 89 hydrosols, 31-33, 46-47, 53, 59, 78, 115; chamomile, 33, 47, 51, 57, 71; geranium, 51; lavender, 33, 47, 51, 57, 63, 71, 115; neroli, 33, 71, 78, 115, 119; rose, 33, 47, 51, 57, 71, 115; rose geranium, 33, 47, 57, 71; tea tree, 47; witch hazel, 33, 36, 47, 51, 57, 63, 71; yarrow, 33, 47, 51, 57, 71 immune system toxicity, 10 it-takes-time.com, 102 Kim, Narae, 33
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
127
Index
Index (continued) lead, 22, 27 lecithin, 30, 36, 53, 55, 78; soy, 34 lotion, 15-16, 24, 26; Everyday Recipe Body Lotion, 77-78; storing, 77; vegan, 26
oil cleansers/cleansing, 26, 40-41, 46, 83; Cleansing Facial Oil, 46; moisturizing facial oils, 46 olive oil, 17 organic, 28; certified, 22; definition of, 14, 23
magnesium, 24 marshmallow root, 115 Masterman, Cybele, 63 Metz, Blythe, 14 mineral oil, 15, 55, 77 moisturizers, 26, 39-40; Everyday Recipe Body Oil, 73; Moisturizing Facial Oils, 49-50
paraben, 10, 39, 61, 83, 103, 117 phthalates, 11, 17 psoriasis, 11, 33
nail care, 87-91; Cuticle Oil, 87; Pedicure Scrub, 91; Pedicure Soak, 89 natural ingredients, 22; definition, 14 neem powder, 46 oats, 19, 61 oatmeal, 19
reproductive toxicity, 10-11 resorcinol, 117 rice; bran powder, 19, 2425, 33, 46; brown, 24-25; flour, 33, 46; white, 24-25 rosacea, 45, 63 routine, creating your beauty, 12-13, 21, 39, 66; expenses of, 29 salt, 17; Epsom, 89; sea, 24, 33, 80-81, 91, 119 sebum, 7, 24, 27, 30, 40-41, 46, 96
scrubs, 26, 65; Almond and Yogurt Body Scrub, 93; body, 36, 93; salt, 81; sugar, 13, 81; Washing Grains, 45-46 shampoo, 95; commercial, 12, 95-96; Dry Shampoo, 121; Everyday Recipe Pale Ale Shampoo Bars, 103-105 silicone, 39, 77, 95, 98 skin; acne-prone, 30-31, 36, 39, 45-47, 51, 55, 71; dry, 27, 39, 45, 47, 49, 71, 73; irritations, 24, 29, 33, 39, 61; mature, 28, 45, 49, 51, 57; sensitive, 45, 49, 51, 55, 71 skin toners, 24, 33, 39-41; Everyday Recipe Skin Toner, 46-47 soap, 31, 65; bar, 15, 34-35, 66, 67-69; castile, 17, 30, 34-35, 69, 103, 105, 107; castle body wash, 71; cold process, 34, 66; how to make hand-milled, 17-18; molds, 17-18, 37; natural bar, 34-35; rebatch, 17
sodium borate, 36 sodium laurel sulfate (SLS), 39, 95, 103 sugar, 53; brown, 80-81; organic, 80-81; raw, 33; scrub, 13, 81; turbinado, 80-81 sulfates, 12, 103 Sun Protection Factor (SPF), 61 sunburns, 24 USDA National Organic Program, 23 Vermont Soap, 17, 67, 69, 103 Warming Massage Oil, 85, 85 Willis, Twila Dawn, 66 yogurt, 24, 36, 59, 61, 93
More Great Books from
Spring House Press
Secrets from the La Varenne Kitchen ISBN: 978-1-940611-15-0 $17.95 | 136 Pages
The Tinkering Woodworker ISBN: 978-1-940611-08-2 $24.95 | 160 Pages
The Handmade Skateboard ISBN: 978-1-940611-06-8 $24.95 | 160 Pages
Look for these Spring House Press titles at your favorite bookstore or woodworking retailer. For more information or to order direct, visit www.springhousepress.com or call 717-208-3739.
128
THE NATURAL BEAUTY SOLUTION
About the Author A decade ago, Mary Helen Leonard decided to make bath and body products for holiday gifts. In researching the supplies, she discovered a fascinating world of ingredients that sparked her curiosity and set her on a path to natural beauty. Today, she works for one of the nation’s leading natural ingredient suppliers as a formulator and author for their blog, The Natural Beauty Workshop, while also sharing DIY recipes for natural skin care, hair care, and green living on her own blog, Mary Makes Good. It’s been years since she relied on commercial products for her beauty routine and she’s healthier for it. When not providing tips and assistance to readers, she can be found teaching natural beauty classes and workshops in her hometown of Austin, TX.
Health & Fitness / Beauty & Grooming
$19.95
A Simple Step Toward
Healthier Living Why go to great lengths to make sure the foods you eat are safe and natural, but then coat your body with soaps, shampoos, and cosmetics that are laden with chemicals? The Natural Beauty Solution is a step-by-step guide that will help you systematically replace your commercial beauty products with a 100% natural routine. With easy-to-follow, affordable, and customizable recipes, The Natural Beauty Solution provides wholesome alternatives to mass produced products. These simple recipes and solutions will help you feel and look your natural, healthy best.
Inside You’ll DISCOVER
AA AA AA AA AA AA
asy-to-follow, all-natural recipes to replace E chemical-laden beauty products How to develop and transition to a natural beauty routine The essential ingredients and tools you need Easy to achieve rewards of DIY facial and body skin care Steps to a healthier, happier head of hair Helpful tips, personal stories, and troubleshooting advice
ISBN 978-1-940611-18-1
www.springhousepress.com