SUMMER
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2019
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passionsarabia.com
PASSIONS ARABIA special edition summer 2019:
ARAB
06. Art 26. Design 44. Jewelry Designers 58. Fashion
Publisher Zeina Mokaddam Operations Director Mishleen AlKazzi Editors Simon Balsom Rawan Qabazard Art Director Yousif Abdulsaid Graphic Designer Chadi Moufied Published by PH7 GROUP
Reproduction in whole or part of any matter appearing in PASSIONS ARABIA is prohibited by law without prior written approval of the publishers.
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ARAB 08. Ali Chaaban
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18. Hatem Imam
ART
Suzi Nassif
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22. Tamara Al Samerraei 6 7
/ ARAB ART
Ali Cha’aban
Only very recently one of the region’s rising stars of art, today he’s cemented his position as one of the solidly arisen. With a truly stellar tra jectory, his recent cv includes a sparkling litany of venues, events, projects and exhibitions of sky-high renown. Last year he collaborated with iconic footwear brand Nike and, at the beginning of 2019, he was part of Jeddah’s 21,39 Art Exhibition with his 12PM Class Series – for which he employed massive and magnificent Persian rugs as the proxy construction material for his creation of very much larger-than-life ‘paper’ airplanes. Today, it is impossible to read too far into a story about this Lebanese-born Artist who grew up in Kuwait without coming across such designations as “sociocultural”, “dystopia”, and “nostalgia”.
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Even for a corner of society quite so well known for its hyperbole – the corner inhabited solely by artists and their critics – at first glance, all appear to have fallen into a pit of floridity and embellishment where Cha’aban is concerned. However, the truth is, he and his work are as far from the pretentions of other ‘manufactured’ work that tries to plough the same furrow as this talented young man. If he is referred to as “a talented observer of culture and traditions”, it is because he is this not because he chooses, but rather because he has no choice. He unravels the intricate details of Arab society as easily as people like you and I breathe air. With no agenda to his work other than to provoke a reaction which may lead to smalland large-scale societal debates, he gives the appearance of being a rare breed of artist – one where ‘ego’ metamorphoses and reveals itself instead as the utmost ‘confidence’ and ‘proficiency’. Through this, Cha’aban manifests his observations in the creation of some of today’s finest contemporary art… not only within the region, but also on a global scale.
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Suzi Nassif
From a very young age, Dubai-based Lebanese artist Nassif was aware of her orientation towards visual arts. Her notebooks were filled with a proliferation of sketches, artistic fonts and vivid colours. She took (and continues to take) pleasure in finding beauty in everything. Her eyes and mind have become accustomed to admiring and analysing details, colours and textures. The artist insists it was destiny that led her to follow her artistic dream - wherever they might take her - and is greatly inspired by the writer Paulo Coelho’s quote: “When you want something, the entire Universe conspires to help you to achieve it”. Innovative diversification is the cornerstone of her art oeuvres. From black and white to vivid colours, mild to sharp and sassy strokes, and different styles and mediums, her paintings tell a unique story with deep emotional echoes. In the words of Picasso: “Painting is a blind man’s profession. He paints not what he sees, but what he feels, what he tells himself about what he has seen”.
Che Frida
Coco Karl
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The Colors of Iris
Dalimmortal
Divine
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Justice League
What they say: “PARADOX” is the latest Suzi Nassif’ exhibition specially created for her New York’s debut. The exhibition is about connecting the past with the present, right with wrong, old with new. Each painting tells different story whilst famous masters are portrayed in different life situations in today’s world and the perception of the same intension, but in different times. Vincent Van Gogh and Frida Kahlo were the masters of self- portrait, but if they have lived in today’s world, would they be narcissistic social media users taking selfies? These are the questions we can only raise and wonder “What If”. [Contemporary Art Curator] “We are so proud of our collaborations with Suzi Nassif. Her artistic flair and captivating use of canvases fits in seamlessly with COYA’s spirit; so much so, that she is the only artist who has been invited to show her art pieces at three different COYA locations: COYA Dubai, COYA Mayfair and COYA Miami”. [Cedric Toussaint, Director of Operations, COYA Dubai] Breakfast at Monalisa
La Boheme
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Threshold, Ink on zinc plate, 134x100cm, 2018
Hatem Imam Lebanon
For his first solo exhibition in Lebanon curated by Amanda Abi Khalil and held at Letitia Gallery - all works were newly commissioned to compose a site-specific installation for the gallery space. Hatem Imam’s artistic practice looks at the ways in which we employ representation to instil a sense of belonging to, or ownership of physical and social spaces through visual inquiries spanning across media and lately stemming from printmaking traditions. “Threshold” proposed to extend the debate about the frame and framing processes inherent to the concept of representation in art – a subject that has nourished significant arguments in the field of art theory and philosophy. The space of the gallery – a virtual frame and agent of power within the structure of the art world, determines and transforms our ways of seeing and perceiving art.
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Infinite Landscape 01, etching, 12x10cm, 2017
Infinite Landscape 02, triptych etching, 15x20cm each, 2017
Threshold, Monotype, 60x90cm, 2018
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Tamara Al Samerraei Kuwait
At the heart of Tamara Al-Samerraei’s new research, there is an object. Or rather, the idea of an object; a form which has shifted from the realm of the real to become an obsession, where the origin of this shape is of little importance. It could as well be a box, a rock or a pile of waste, but above all, it is the way in which it has been absorbed and digested by the artist, the process of revelation that should interest us. From this forgotten artifact, the artist draws the essence of a new series of work. (Loïc Le Gall)
Sleeping Figure, 2018,Acrylic on canvas,137x104cm
Night Shrub, 2018,Acrylic on canvas,108x106cm
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Offering, 2018,Acrylic on canvas,197x147cm
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A R A B 28. Iyad Naja
D
32. Kawth
36. Naqsh Coll
DESIGN
her Alsaffar
40. Shaikha Al Mazrou
llective
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/ ARAB DESIGN
Iyad Naja Embodying past and present The work of Lebanese multidisciplinary product designer Iyad Na ja distils the avant garde with the legacy of this region’s patrimony. His rich sensory experiences are applied to many creative disciplines. Enriching his viewers with a fresh perspective on heritage, he creates pieces of high art from everyday objects and material knowhow. Weaving his personal experiences to his work, he applies a personal element to art, mirroring his soul-searching methods in the foundation of his unparalleled products. Fusing heritage with contemporary, his work pays homage to the skills of the craftsmen that have helped shape the region over the centuries. Very much the modern 21st century man, the references in his works to Islamic history and art are authentic and stand scrutiny – unlike much of the pastiche copycat pieces that have picked up on similar design-threads as being ‘on-trend’. So highly is his work regarded, that you’ll find it prized by members of the Saudi royal family and Imam and business magnate Aga Khan. Na ja also has seven pieces in the collection of Harvard Law School in Boston, USA. His work matches form and function; indeed, he refers to his pieces as “functional art”. How so? As you can see, recent work includes doors, lamps, bookshelves and mirrors. Manifesting his designs using modernist materials including concrete, he contrasts this harshness through the addition of exquisitely Arabic calligraphy formed of brass or plated-steel. “Empowered by the solid foundation he finds in the authentic art of the region, Na ja affirms that, “This is our essence.”
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/ ARAB DESIGN
Kawther Alsaffar There are few designers more eloquent about their craft than Kawther Alsaffar. Passionate about the future of design in the Kuwait and across the region, she’s very much on the frontline fighting to establish an identity for Kuwaiti designers, and has established her design credentials both at home and abroad. Her work is multi-disciplinary and uses storytelling and craft to traverse the fictional lines between art and design. She focuses on finding patterns for human intimacy and truth, whether this manifests itself in finding cultural significance, integrity in materials, or creating human connections. Recently involved as one-third of a trio of designers (with architect Jassim Al Nashmi and Ricardas Blazukas) who proposed a new design identity for Kuwait through a series of 46 chairs in a project entitled ‘Desert Cast’. Constructed through a combination of traditional foam cutting and sandcasting processes, the work was presented at Dubai Design Week where the designers classified each within one of nine styles: Rodhún (Rotunda), Coloseum (Coliseum), Danteel (Dentil), Âyooni (Ionic), Ishtiqâq (Pediment), Corinthian (Corinthian), Córneeshe (Cornice), Ifreez (Frieze) and Ri-wâq Bi-á’mida (Portico). The reason? They are inspired to introduce their countrymen to the design process, and to show how accessible easy methods of fabrication are in the country. With this project, and through further collaborations, they want to help define a local “maker” identity – something that will prove beneficial for all parties. The result? Positive engagement with regional and international designers that sparked a conversation that continues to today. Did it spark a similar conversation amongst their fellow citizens? Well, some things are a little harder to provoke.
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The work that brought Alsaffar to prominence was ‘Dual Bowls’. Through her emerging furniture design practice, Alsaffar aims to contribute to a worldwide conversation on the differences and importance of experience based cultural design. This is achieved by elevating and promoting the processes and skills available in Kuwait such as sand-casting and copper sinking which have been under-utilized. What is her method? Dual casting is the process of sand casting using two metals. Alsaffar employs three distinct dual casting processes to create the Dual Bowls: i Cutting – Pouring a second metal onto a cold half cut form.
ii Pouring – Pouring two molten metals into the same sand form. iii Plating – half dipping a finished base metal into another conductive metal. The result? Judge for yourself on these pages. For us, within them lies both a physical construct and a social construct. These pieces of ‘imperfect tableware’ highlight a successful amalgamation of design and craft, and bridge the gap between the designer and her craftsmen. Kuwait’s class structure makes it socially unacceptable for Alsaffar to become a fabricator. The designer’s own reasoning behind the success of ‘Dual Bowls’ is in bridging this divide in that it allows the fabricators so much control and input into the craft of her pieces.
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/ ARAB DESIGN
The naqsh collective The naqsh collective is sisters Nisreen Abudail and Nermeen Abudail. Founded in in Amman, Jordan in 2010, the naqsh collective instantly became a conceptual framework reflected in the unique pieces of art and their intricate collaboration with design.
The Shawl: reflects a ‘testimonial of stories’ inherited from the duo’s ancestors of their Palestinian heritage. It recreates traditional hand-crafted embroidery, reinterpreting its shapes and compositions in robust materials. It was shortlisted for the fifth edition of the Jameel Prize, supported by Art Jameel.
The Jameel Prize: the vision of the Jameel Prize is to recognise artists who explore traditional Islamic influences through contemporary art. The Jameel Prize, worth £25,000, is open to contemporary artists and designers from all around the world and entry is by nomination, recommended by a wide range of specialists.
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Installation view of Jameel Prize 5 by naqsh collective at Jameel Arts Centre, Dubai. Photo by Dani Baptista
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/ ARAB DESIGN
Shaikha
Al Mazrou Emirati artist Shaikha Al Mazrou is on a constant journey through materials, form, and content. In describing her work, Al Mazrou explains that it is less about storytelling and more about challenging perceptions. It comes mainly from the school of minimalism, with a focus on industrially made works.
What her gallery says: “Al Mazrou’s practice is anchored in history of art, borrowing formally from minimalism and intellectually from conceptual art. Influenced by artists from the Modernist and Bauhaus Movements - such as Paul Klee, Carle Andre and Wassily Kandinsky - Al Mazrou uses the formal aspects of minimalism to engage in a current fascination with materiality in art. Often in her works she combines mass-produced materials such as electronic waste or construction materials with colour and form, experimenting with these resources to create abstract geometric arrangements. Fascinated by notions of physical space, her sculptures and installations materialize as simple gestures that emphasize the representation of tension, weight and space.” (Lawrie Shabibi Gallery)
Exhale , 40 2018 41
What the artist says: “Being fascinated by material, I wanted to take normal metal sheets that are used in industrial fields and transform their physical form, changing their context, and using the power of colour to give a three-dimensional shape. for this collection, I created seven different works in a range of colours. You will often find dichotomy in my practice – something looks handmade, but isn’t. Something that looks soft, but is actually metal.”
Extend, 2018
Focal Point, 2019
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ARAB
JEWEL
DE
46. Falamank by Tarfa Itani
56. Mukhi
ELRY
DESIGNERS 52. Ranya Sarakbi
Sisters 44 45
/ ARAB Jewelry DESIGNERS
Falamank by Tarfa Itani Tarfa Itani, the founder of Falamank by Tarfa Itani, a Beirut-based luxury jewelry label, launched the brand in 2006, has attracted an army of loyal fans and is stocked in boutiques and department stores in her home country plus Kuwait, Qatar, and the UAE. With ten core collections; from the diamond-blaze of her ‘Fireworks’, to the Arabesque curves and forms of her award-winnig ‘L’Orient’ story; the designer adds to her oeuvre through the infinite possibilities embodied by her ‘Bespoke’ service. Through this, the designer creates pieces of jewelry “as unique as the women they adorn”. Today, and executed by some of the most highly-skilled artisans’ hands in the Levant, Falamank by Tarfa Itani is uniquely in the business of combining the finest traditions with the latest in contemporary jewelmaking techniques for the creation of original designs of sculptural and fine jewelry – the 21st century’s contemporary collectibles.
Angel Knight
Soleil
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L’aureole
Soleil
www.falamank.com Instagram: falamankbytarfaitani Facebook: falamankbytarfaitani
The dream catcher
Neoclassic
Neoclassic
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/ ARAB Jewelry DESIGNERS
Ranya Sarakbi Self-taught creator of astonishing pieces of wearable art and daedal jewelry, Ranya Sarakbi is perhaps the most talented sculptor you’ve never heard of. Low-key in the world of the over-blown, Sarakbi’s most recent work – ‘Untitled, 2019’ was viewed during Milan Design Week.
Currently living and working in Italy’s second city, Lebanese Sarakbi has made a name for herself amongst those ‘in-the-know’ for her esoteric and larger-than-life pieces. In 2013 she created an imposing installation out of more than 16,000 bronze castings. Entirely handmade, its serpentine form extended to 11 metres in length. At the other end of the scale, smaller works – but no less striking – include neck ornaments and wrist adornments. The seminal two-part collar – Icarus/8800 – is, for us, her most memorable piece to date. 150 pieces of gold-plated bronze form the wings and body of a falcon – as singular in concept as it was in execution. Milan, 2019 Quite beautiful despite (or, perhaps because of) its hideousness, the artist’s sculpture carries extractable spines to be worn as amulets around the neck. Continuing Sarakbi’s obsessive marriage of the aesthetic and the industrial, it is a unique piece. That the human mind can envision and make real such works of extraordinary and forceful convolution as Sarakbi’s speaks volumes for the complexity and power of the driven mind.
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Untitled, 2019 silver plated copper alloy, sapphires, black diamonds, gold
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/ ARAB Jewelry DESIGNERS
Mukhi Sisters The three Indian Lebanese sisters (Maya, Meena, and Zeenat Mukhi) decided to take their passion for fine jewelry to the next level. And so Mukhi Sisters was born out of the vivacious influences of different cultures and rich traditions. The three sisters grew up surrounded by design and jewelry-making. This intergenerational background makes Mukhi Sisters an independent brand that tells an exceptional story of its own. Their label is female owned and run. They were inspired by their Indian and Lebanese heritage. Their jewelry skills and their working of gold, stones, and pearls are all unique in a sense. The brand Mukhi Sisters transforms stories and personal moments into finely crafted jewelry with real individuality. At Mukhi Sisters, the subtle meets the bold, the vibrant clashes with the sober, the nostalgic meets trendsetting style, the ethnic merges with the urban, and nature blossoms next to fanciful symmetry. It’s a cascade of sensations that celebrates the beauty of semi-precious stones, gold, and diamonds to create original statements and to reflect a lifestyle sparkling with individuality.
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No Guts No Glory, a collection designed by women for women. It’s the Mukhi Sisters’ stunning tenth collection. Guided by the sage gravitas of a heroine superhero, Glory, sending a message of true strength that comes from within. Rather than wearing items that have superpowers, Mukhi Sisters are here to remind women of their own.
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ARAB FA 66. Marzook
60.
70. Mohammed Ashi
78. H
ASHION Krikor Jabotian 74. Salim Azzam
Hala Kaiksow
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/ ARAB FASHION
Krikor Jabotian
Krikor Jabotian jumpstarted his career within the creative department at Elie Saab following his graduation from the École Supérieure des Arts et Techniques de la Mode (ESMOD) in Beirut, an enriching experience that paved his path into the industry. At the age of 23, Krikor set up his first studio and designed his very first collection. The company quickly evolved into a thriving, family-run business alongside his father, mother, and sister. Atelier Krikor Jabotian takes pride in its refined craftsmanship and use of opulent fabrics to create a timeless message of heritage, style, tradition, and innovation. Meticulous, dramatic, lavish, and demure. In the latest collections, we see hints of inspiration from the Russian monarchy through silhouettes and jewelry-like embellishments. The Krikor Jabotian woman is strong but sensitive, confident yet delicate, and that is precisely what his collections are all about.
Meticulous, dramatic, lavish, and demure. In the latest Spring-Summer 2019 collection, we see hints of inspiration from the Russian monarchy through silhouettes and jewelry-like embellishments. Dusty pink, off-white, and burgundy come together to show off a royal yet young perspective evident across many of the pieces.
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Marzook
Fahad and Shouq’s journey into designing and styling was initially driven by their passion for art and design. The brand Marzook creates handmade luxury art forms. Each design is individually unique, finding inspiration from art, architecture, and nature. Introducing distortions in design by breaking norms and not being a systematic arrangement. Marzook’s exquisite line of accessories consists of precious metals, plexiglass resins, and Swarovski encrusted spherical shapes and styles. The designs draw inspiration from a rich mix of Eastern and Western cultures, which reflect the world the brand was developed in. The collection is a reverence to modern-day objet d’art. Celebrities all over the world have been spotted sporting the Pill bag and the Orb clutch at ma jor red carpet and fashion events such as The Met Gala and Cannes Film Festival. Other than accessories, during Ramadan, Marzook has introduced a ready-to-wear capsule collection to celebrate the season.
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Marzook launches the second Ramadan Readyto-Wear collection: “Land of Opulence, World of Art� - a collection inspired by the coronation of Shah of Persia, Mohamed Reza Pahlavi at a lavish coronation ceremony on October 1971. Also, shown here are the Marzook accessories from their latest collection.
description
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/ ARAB FASHION
Mohammed Ashi
Launched in 2007 in Beirut by the designer Mohammed Ashi, Ashi Studio established itself as a luxurious fashion house, rapidly gaining recognition as an illustrious label catering to a distinct clientele. Aiming to garner praise in timeless and modern elegance, Ashi’s designs, through their sharp cut shapes and intricate details, present a classic update for the greatest codes of fashion. The designer, who has a refined taste for all that art embodies, embraces embroidery to capture the essence of luxury and tell fairy tales through every meticulously handcrafted design. Attached to his Arab roots yet inspired by diverse cultures, the designer brings life and a story to every creation he designs. He has redefined the realms of Haute Couture by masterfully sculpting every dress with ornate fabrics and embellishments, transforming them into timeless pieces of art.
The Spring/Summer 2019 Couture Collection entitled ‘Letters from Margaret’ consisting of 25 looks, is inspired by the blend of two iconic eras - the 1950s and the 1990s, with silhouettes that are voluminous, yet light and feminine.
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Behind the scene of Ashi’s Spring/ Summer 2019 Couture
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Salim Azzam Salim believes in storytelling through fashion. He studied graphic design at the Lebanese University and went on to get a master’s degree in visual communication from Canada. He considers himself as an illustrator of traditional stories and local customs. He uses his design and illustration skills to highlight and document these stories, customs and traditions, and events with embroidery. Known for intricate hand-embroidered designs which are fabulously executed by local craftswomen in Mount Lebanon, allowing them to tell their own stories with their needles and threads, Salim Azzam’s designs and illustrations on shirts and dresses bring personal stories to life. Azzam’s work represents a mix of artwork and skills, giving him an opportunity to undertake social design in communities. Each collection has a different theme, and under each theme come some stories that are embroidered on plain white shirts. His unique designs and attention to the social aspect of design, involving the community in his projects, were some of the reasons for his deserving popularity.
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PASSIONSARABIA - ARAB FASHION
Salim Azzam, the storyteller, begins designing his pieces with a blank canvas and utilizes the art of embroidery to tell a story. Each collection has a specific theme, and each piece tells a different story.
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Hala Kaiksow From her loom, Kaiksow conducts the practice of 21st century artisan. A trained artist and sculptor, she is inspired by the beauty found in everyday objects and through a utilitarian approach to dressing. Deconstructing apparel – both contemporary and of the past – she creates clothing infused with feminine strength. Exploring the endless possibilities of garment construction, her creative process is driven by experimentation. Working with a group of Bahraini artisans, they weave the fabrics by hand – a process which aids the preservation of weaving skills within this historic Gulf country. In 2018, she was one of the artists named on the shortlist for the Jameel Prize. The pieces selected by the jury were the Kimono Vest and Thoub Nashal Jumpsuit from her debut ‘Wandress’ collection.
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Letter from the Editor
Dear Dreamer, To inspire and be inspired… To allow yourself to dream, everyday a bigger and more challenging dream… To celebrate the dreams and successes of others. To push yourself to new limits and watch yourself grow with your achievements… And watch your nation grow through your achievements.. To know that, indeed, your existence does matter Your work does have impact. That, in and by itself, is the ultimate reward. As such, and to all the Arabs who strive to push themselves within their domain, in whatever part of the world they are, I dedicate this first special edition of PASSIONS ARABIA. A celebration of the dream within us all, Till the next issue… Zeina Mokaddam
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THE FIRST WATCH WORN ON THE MOON
AVA IL A BL E AT:
#MOONWATCH
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