Postcard from: Okinawa, Japan

Postcard from

OKINAWA

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Southern ways

Okinawa is the most southerly prefecture in Japan and only became part of the country in 1879. An island chain stretching 1,000km, its capital Naha is closer to Taiwan than Tokyo.

During World War Two the main island, also called Okinawa, was invaded by U.S. troops and nearly half the population died or committed suicide after 82 days of bombardment known as the ‘rain of steel’.

U.S. troops are still stationed in Okinawa and their cultural influence lingers too – the endless stalls of tourist tat along Naha’s Kokusai Street peddle Hawaiian shirts alongside dried fish snacks and silk kimonos. Growing old gracefully

Okinawa is a ‘Blue Zone’ region, where people live notably long lives and I found out one of the reasons why during lunch, at Cafe

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Off Naha is Nagannu, a sliver of an island carpeted in bonewhite sand, crunchy pink coral and tropical screw pines, visited by humpback whales Okinawa was home of the Ryuku Kingdom, which traded with other cultures when Japan was isolated

Garamanjyaku. Its owner Kiyoko Yamashiro prepared my lunch in what she called ‘Grandma’s kitchen’ as I sat cross-legged at the low table, looking out of the sliding doors to the damp, green garden of this little wooden house. “It’s all down to nuchi gusto,” she explained. This means ‘food is medicine’ and it must be

because the women here live on average 87 years; men a notably lower 77. “Because they drink more sake and do less work”, said Kiyoko, totally serious.

I felt healthier just looking at my plate. Colourful clusters of grated carrot, juicy yellow star fruit, mauve fried taro, earthy mushrooms, green beans, herb-flecked tofu and sticky rice speckled with peas – all local vegetables and herbs.

As I tucked in a tabby cat padded silently across the tatami mat floor while a stone kettle bubbled cheerily on the glowing coal hearth at the centre of the table, the witchy-looking herbs sprouting out of it giving off a calming aroma.

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