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Love low season Explore
Love low season
You don’t have to visit the Balearic Islands at the height of summer. Long-term fan of the islands Isabella Noble tells us why Ibiza, Mallorca and Menorca are worth a visit at any time of year
Michael Tomlinson at Unsplash O n Ibiza’s south-west coast,
a half-moon of stone-built fishing shacks overlook a glassy little bay tinged a seductive teal, surrounded by bottle-green pine trees that dot the gently
sloping hillside. During the hot, busy summer months, ibicencos gather here for low-key picnic lunches and dips in the glittering turquoise sea, while visitors soak up the non-stop party scene on En Bossa beach just to the north. But this time, on a cool earlyspring evening, I have the place all to myself, with only the gentle Mediterranean breeze for company.
Strung just off Spain’s eastern shoreline, the four bewitching Balearic Islands have been one of Europe’s most-loved summer beach destinations for decades, and none of them more so than the sequin-clad party queen Ibiza.
But there’s much more than sun, sand and clubs to discover here, with everything from relics of ancient civilisations to off-beat cliff-hugging hiking trails and a wonderfully rich regional food scene. For a taste of Ibiza’s go-slow side, skip the June-toSeptember high season; January/ February temperatures can creep up to 15°C, and it’s often a pleasant 19°C in April and November.
All Ibiza adventures should start at magical Dalt Vila – the Unescolisted citadel founded by the Phoenicians in 654 BC and now encircled by 16th-century ramparts, at the core of the capital Ibiza Town.
While most of the stylish restaurants here close during winter, the quieter season is the perfect time to get a feel for the island’s long, layered history. Strolling the cobbled pedestrianised streets, you’ll spot washing dangling from
Dalt Vila, Ibiza old town
Samuel C at Unsplash
flung-open windows and discover the Catalan Gothic cathedral, the Museu d’Art Contemporani d’Eivissa (a reborn 18th-century building devoted to local art) and, just outside Dalt Vila’s walls, the major Phoenician-era Puig des Molins necropolis.
Then stop for a bite at Ca n’Alfredo (known for its classic Ibizan recipes such as ensalada pagesa – rustic salad with cod), inventive tapas spot La Barrita (boletus – or mushroom – croquettes, huevos rotos sobrasada – broken eggs with cured sausage) or creative health-food cafe Passion (with two branches open year-round).
Beyond the capital, explore timeworn whitewashed villages dripping with bougainvillea, where life ticks on no matter the season – buzzy Santa Gertrudis at the heart of the island, mellow east-coast Santa Eulària with its Roman-origin history, and secluded northern hubs like Sant Joan and Santa Agnès (with a string of deliciously remote coves on their doorstep).
Head out hiking, cycling or horse-riding to drink in the dazzling Ibizan coastline at a more leisurely pace, perhaps on an expert-guided trip with Ibiza Outdoors, whose rewarding walking routes
Sant Joan de Labritja
MORE OFF-SEASON Balearics
MALLORCA
Lively Palma de Mallorca is making a name for itself as one of Spain’s most irresistible anyseason-goes city breaks. It’s home to an astonishing waterside Gothic cathedral (in which Gaudí eventually played a part), a string of local-produce markets (start with the 1951-founded Mercat de l’Olivar) and unmissable art galleries, such as the Fundació Pilar i Joan Miró (where the revamped Edificio Moneo recently reopened).
An ever-growing crop of tempting boutique stays includes Hotel Sant Francesc, a chicly converted 19th-century home neighbouring a church and square of the same name with a rooftop pool and bar. Or escape into the rugged Serra de Tramuntana hills, where the famous winter almond blossom is a rosetinged delight, and hiking and cycling routes meander between honey-walled villages like Deià, Valldemossa and Banyalbufar.
PALMA DE MALLORCA
MENORCA
Mellower than Ibiza and Mallorca, Menorca has been a Unesco Biosphere Reserve since 1993. Stay in the Britishinfluenced capital Maó and explore the crumbling forts, the buzzy fresh-produce market (with an array of tapas stalls) and the boundary-pushing Hauser & Wirth gallery set in the spectacular natural harbour.
Or go for labyrinthine Ciutadella on the west coast; Menorca's former capital, its medieval streets encircle the old port. Other year-round Menorca highlights include mysterious prehistoric Talayotic monuments scattered across the rugged landscape, as well as hiking, cycling and horse-riding along the 185km-long Camí de Cavalls, which encircles the whole island.
Maria Is at Unsplash TAULA GRAN, MENORCA
David Shihovec at Unsplash
include mysterious Atlantis on the south-west tip of the island and the protected Ses Salines salt flats. Or learn about Ibiza’s on-the-up wines (whose roots date back 2,500 years) with a visit to a local bodega such as Can Rich or Ibizkus, both respected family-owned wineries working with organic vines and ancient grape varieties.
Among a slowly growing number of Ibizan hotels now throwing their doors open year-round is the effortlessly chic The Standard Ibiza, which launched in 2022. This luxe adults-only address brings minimalist rooms, a farm-to-table restaurant, dreamy rooftop pool and a packed events calendar to Ibiza Town’s lively Vara de Rey boulevard.
Just outside Sant Antoni, Hostal La Torre is an all-year boho-Balearic beauty known for its sunset DJ sessions, stylishly simple rooms and suites and waterfront restaurant.
Ibiza has grown into a tantalising gastronomic destination too, blending typical Balearic recipes and fresh island ingredients with world-roaming influences. The beach-chic chiringuitos (beach bars) might pack up outside summer, but most villages
FRESH WHITEBAIT
white-washed buildings and azure seas
have a year-round foodie buzz. Santa Gertrudis is a highlight, with its 18th-century yellow-trim church, a clutch of bohemian boutiques and always-open restaurants, such as plant-based haven Wild Beets and rustic-feel Bottega Il Buco (a New York offshoot).
There’s no escaping Ibiza’s beachy soul though, and Med-side dining is on the table even during off-season. Hidden away on the rust-red south coast, Sa Caleta is a traditional, family-owned seafood kitchen going strong since the 1980s and perfect for devouring local favourites such as bullit de peix (seafood and potato stew) and arròs a banda (rice with cuttlefish). It’s just a few steps from the Sa Caleta ruins, where the Phoenicians first landed on Ibiza – and the island’s story began over 2,000 years ago.
