Charleston City Paper: Dish Dining Guide, Summer 2024
Bexley Fish & Raw Bar is serving some of Summerville’s most creative dishes right now
Welcome to the Charleston City Paper’s summer version of our quarterly publication, Dish, in which we highlight the best of the best eats this city has to offer. In this issue, we lean into all things summer with fresh local fish, juicy tomatoes, chic outdoor patios and high-quality suburban restaurants where you can skip the beach traffic and settle into a nice spot in your own neighborhood.
Writer Gabi Capestany talked to local chefs about how they prepare what we’re starting to think is the dish of the summer: ceviche. The citrus-cured fish, served in a variety of ways around town, is the perfect chill, crisp antidote to blazing hot days.
Whether you’re growing them yourself or just stocking up at a local farmers market, fresh tomatoes are so in season, we’d be surprised to find a restaurant in town that wasn’t celebrating — and elevating the humble vegetable. Writer Libby Wiersema talked to some local farmers and chefs to see how they handle a robust tomato crop.
As refreshing as an air-conditioned bar and restaurant can be, there’s no better way to truly enjoy Lowcountry summers than kicking back on a local patio. Whether you’re looking for a happy hour drink or a morning caffeine fix, we’ve found places that feature
shade, fans and cold, cold beverages.
If you’ve never traveled out of downtown Charleston for a big night out, you might want to rethink things after reading our story about the finer dining exploding in area suburbs. We talked to three local restaurants that prove you don’t have to leave the neighborhood to have an excellent dining experience.
This issue’s essay comes from local chef Nikko Cagalanan, who recounts a recent trip to Chicago for the James Beard Awards.
As always, we’ve got you covered with our Top 50 list of great area restaurants — and be sure to keep an eye out for some new additions. And if you’re still dying to try the area’s newest and hottest spots, well, you can find those on the aptly titled CP Hotlist. Connelly Hardaway
Contributors:
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Photographers: Rūta Smith, Ashley Rose Stanol
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Shrimp ceviche at Maya del Sol Kitchen, photographed by Rūta Smith.
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Killer tomatoes
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Local hotspots for dining out this summer inside
Blistering temps can’t temper our ravenous appetite for tasty ’maters
The new frontier How finer dining is thriving in Charleston’s suburbs
The perfect bite
Cool off with Charleston’s fresh ceviche preparations
The perfect patio
Rūta Smith
Editor and Publisher: Andy Brack
Associate Publisher: Cris Temples editorial News:
Skyler Baldwin, Herb Frazier, Connelly Hardaway, Chloe Hogan, Hillary Reaves
Libby Wiersema, Tiare Solis, Gabriela Capestany
Blistering temps can’t temper our appetites for tasty ’maters
By Libby Wiersema
hough the summer heat meted out a punishing beat-down, it was business as usual for South Carolinians. We don’t just survive hellish weather. We thrive in it thanks to a carefully curated arsenal of pleasures: beach days, swimming pools, sweet iced tea, air conditioning and lots of field-fresh produce. In fact, we take downright giddy joy in the rising of the mercury and pop-up afternoon showers as they signal the most sacred time on our agricultural calendar: tomato season.
Visions of tomatoes piled high in market bins dance in our heads come April or May when planting gets underway. Then, things heat up in June as backyard vines and roadside stands begin filling out with seductive rosy orbs and their promise of titillating gastronomic delights. And lucky us! Not only do we get a robust summer season, but our climate affords us a second tomato season in the fall. (When you’re envying the North’s autumn leaves and cool weather, remember the trade-off.)
Sorelle’s summer tuna crudo
We can look back on the 2024 summer season as one that was hotter than hot with things reaching a fever pitch in July. Indeed, the scorching conditions failed to temper our appetite for tomato-this and tomato-that nor halt the yielding of tasty local tomatoes. Early planting, a heatsmart strategy for providing water, sun and shade, and other techniques mastered by Lowcountry growers, ensure we get our fill. When your family’s demand for a summertime menu of tomato sandwiches, BLTs, tomato salads and such puts a dent in your tomato supply, there are plenty of options for continued enjoyment.
At Stono Market and Tomato Shed Café, operating on Johns Island since 1987, a side of warm tomato pie is more than a crowdpleaser — it is a tradition. Proprietors “Farmer” Pete and Barbara Ambrose grow and source tomatoes for their famous dish on a 200-acre Wadmalaw Island organic farm. In a day, Barbara Ambrose said they go through about 10 cases of tomatoes.
Joey Izzo
“I don’t know because I’m not a scientist, but I have a speculation that our tomatoes taste so good because of the phosphorus in the soil and the fact that they are vine-ripened,” she explained.
The basil in the tomato pie adds an herby, bright element to the creamy, cheesy,
Charleston Grill’s heirloom tomato carpaccio with boquerones is served with a savory garlic aioli
You can only nosh on FIG’s tomato tarte tatin during peak tomato season
tomato-filled pastry. But while tomato pie is a common Southern delight, there are more tomato adventures to be had, especially in Charleston.
At FIG, the iconic tomato tarte tatin is only served during tomato season.
To meet the high demand, chef Mika Lata’s strategy relies upon timing to source the right tomatoes from area farms for this favored dish.
“We source vine-ripe, beefsteak-type tomatoes, ideally with thicker walls for a more meaty and luscious texture when
roasted,” he said. “We wait for the season to get well underway, when lots of juicy, red, ripe tomatoes are available.”
During the season, which peaks in July and lingers through October, chef Michelle Weaver is all about showing some inspired and creative tomato love to patrons of Charleston Grill and Palmetto Café.
“To me, tomatoes are synonymous with summer, and we try to incorporate them into as many dishes as we can during peak season,” she said. “We’re offering an heirloom cherry tomato salad that’s a riff on a BLT with bacon and lemon dill dressing — which uses Duke’s Mayo of course! We also have a delicious Caprese sandwich with Johns Island tomatoes and an heirloom tomato carpaccio with boquerones and a really savory garlic aioli.”
JOHNS ISLAND’S BEST BRUNCH VOTED
SERVED ALL DAY EVERY DAY
At Sorelle, chef Nick Dugan also focuses on Johns Island tomatoes, which he sources from Rosebank Farms. For a light, elegant starter, he is offering a summer tuna crudo with finely chopped tomatoes, tuna and punchy Calabrian chiles.
“The flavor profiles and cooking techniques of Italian fare, in this case, coastal Italian, lend themselves incredibly well to the seafood and produce we are fortunate to have at our fingertips,” he said. “For this time of year, it’s really a great joy to have accessibility to small local farms and to work with GrowFood Carolina and so many South Carolina farmers to bring tomatoes and other produce into restaurants.”
Tomato Trivia: Did you know …
A case was sent to the U.S. Supreme Court in 1893 ( Nix v. Hedden, 149 U.S. 304) to determine if tomatoes were vegetables or fruits. In yet another questionable ruling, they designated them “vegetables.”
Tomatoes are from the nightshade family and closely related to the highly toxic belladonna.
It wasn’t until the 19th century that tomatoes and pasta were paired by Italians. Prior to that, lard was the pasta sauce of choice.
Though met with suspicion by many Europeans when the Spanish introduced them, tomatoes landed in North America where Southerners dug right in, thanks to reassurances from the tomato-familiar Gullah Geechee.
Thought to have been brought to this continent via the Caribbean, tomatoes were likely first grown in South Carolina in the 1700s — which makes them, quintessentially, a Southern thang. Hooray!
Courtesy FIG
Weaver
Lata
Dugan
The new frontier
How ‘finer dining’ is thriving
Fine dining has long surpassed antiquated notions of white tablecloths and dress codes, once markers of an elegant evening out. Sure, you’ll find those things around town, but they don’t make or break a “fine dining” experience. In Charleston, “fine dining” has come to encompass an experience that incorporates exceptional service, sensational food and solid beverage pairings.
Lately, those kinds of experiences can be found, more and more often, off the peninsula. There are incredible restaurants
in Charleston’s suburbs
By Connelly Hardaway
all over the area — stalwarts like Johns Island’s Wild Olive and Isle of Palms’ Coda del Pesce come to mind — but for this story, we focused on spots that have opened in the last several years as a direct response to population growth.
Fine dining — or as we fondly like to think of it, finer dining — has firmly situated itself in area suburbs, from northern Mount Pleasant to downtown Summerville. We chatted with chefs at these destinations about what it’s like to serve the folks of the
region’s exploding residential areas, and what the future of Charleston cuisine might hold.
A friend of the neighborhood
Kevin Johnson and his wife Susan, owners of downtown’s The Grocery and, most recently, of Mount Pleasant’s Lola Rose, have lived in northern Mount Pleasant for two decades.
“We’ve certainly seen the growth,” said Johnson of the area’s drastic rise in population. In 2019, Mount Pleasant was named the second-fastest growing city in the country. Since then, the city has continued to grow, expanding northward up U.S. Highway 17.
And after years of living in the area, Johnson thought it was high time to start feeding it, too. He opened Lola Rose, a “neighborhood trattoria,” in 2023.
“We wanted to have a place that was within what we considered to be our community,” he said. “This is where all three of our kids have gone to school. … It’s just a great way to be part of where we’ve really grown up.”
Lola Rose, located in Park Bend at Carolina Park, is Johnson’s answer to the
question: Where should we eat tonight? He refers to the coastal Mediterranean food as “elevated,” and with a menu divided into sections like antipasta, salad, pizza, pasta and entrees, it’s approachable, too.
“We want to provide people with an elevated experience,” he said. “But not so much that they feel like they can’t bring their kids in there after a dance practice or on a Tuesday night … and then maybe come in for a date night with another couple on a Friday night.”
Johnson described a night at Lola Rose as the kind of experience diners are used to having at a downtown Charleston restaurant, “where you can get curated ingredients,” but within the confines of your neighborhood.
As the owner of a popular downtown restaurant, Johnson said he’s seen some people become regulars of The Grocery over the years. He noted The Grocery also has outof-town customers “who are probably never going to come again.”
Lola Rose, though, is different. “Pretty much every single person that walks in the door of Lola Rose has the potential to become a regular because they live nearby or they have friends that live nearby,” Johnson said.
And as appealing as a neighborhood spot is to the people who live in the ‘burbs, these locations have something to offer for Johnson’s employees, too. “For the better part of the last eight years we wanted to open another restaurant,” he said. “We wanted to diversify ourselves and give our staff new opportunities.”
Johnson sings the praises of his staff’s dedication to a quality dining experience at Lola Rose.
“We stress this all the time — the difference between service and hospitality,” he said. “Service is something people see. Hospitality is what they feel.”
An all-American night out
Located just south of downtown Charleston, James Island is a triangular sea island full of well-established neighborhoods and swaths of newer housing developments. The neighborhood dates to the 1925 development of Riverland Terrace, an area that includes his-
Photos courtesy Lola Rose; Jonathan Boncek
Lola Rose owners Kevin and Susan Johnson bring coastal Mediterranean fare to northern Mount Pleasant
James Islanders can indulge in steak and martinis right in their own neighborhood
toric residential homes and an array of small businesses.
Last summer The James, a member of the Neighborhood Dining Group (NDG), joined that array when it set up shop on Maybank Highway in the former location of Zia Taqueria (and before that, Athens Greek restaurant).
“One thing that’s always stood out to me, is when I think of James Island, I always felt it was underserved for restaurants,” said the president of the Neighborhood Dining Group, David Howard. “I’ve been in the town a long time and there were never really a lot of restaurants over there.”
So, Howard decided to open one. And the old adage — the one about if you build it — proved true. “We’ve been very busy from day one and the feedback has been tremendous,” he said.
Howard founded NDG in 2001 and the hospitality group currently includes Husk, Minero, Delaney Oyster House and most recently, East Bay Street’s new steakhouse, Marbled & Fin. Howard has been watching the growth of the Charleston area for over two decades now.
“The city has grown so much. People are moving further out because it’s cost-prohib itive [to live downtown] … I think with the growth of the city, the suburban pockets are going to be filled with more dining options — and more elevated dining options,” said Howard. “I don’t think everybody is content just going to a bar and eating fast food.
The Bexley’s Key Lime Semifreddo is a sweet way to end a meal at the
Andrew Cebulka
buzzing Summerville restaurant
BEST BREAKFAST
and miso glazed duck leg.
They want a comfortable place, they want somewhere that’s a little more mature.”
The James calls itself an “American grill” and Howard said the cuisine is the stuff that “America likes to eat.” From a wedge salad to a cheeseburger to garlic shrimp pasta, the menu trends traditional for a reason. “That’s a formula that works,” Howard said.
Part of the formula, too, is the kind of service a longstanding hospitality group like NDG is used to offering. “We provide the hospitality and then build the relationships with the people in our community,” he said. “Building those relationships is everything that I built my business on.”
That’s jazz, man
Summerville, a town of just over 50,000 people, is located about 20 miles north of downtown Charleston and falls firmly into what are now called the “exurbs.”
In a recent Axios story, “Exurb boom: America’s fastest-growing cities,” Alex Fitzpatrick wrote: “More [of the fastest growing places in the country] were on the far outskirts of metro areas — 30, 40 and even more than 60 miles away from the largest city’s downtown.”
In 2022, chef-owner Jeremy Holst opened Bexley Fish & Raw Bar in Summerville, continuing the exurb boom and introducing a new kind of cuisine to the town’s quaint downtown.
At Bexley, diners can peruse a menu that’s true to the restaurant’s “fish and raw bar” name, with dishes like tuna tartare with crispy rice, kimchi and chili crunch, daily oysters and a warm rice bowl with tuna crudo. There’s more land-lubbing fare, too, with slow-cooked lamb shank
The Bexley menu changes seasonally and sometimes even daily, depending on what Holst is getting from local purveyors, some of whom bring him ingredients unprompted.
“There’s a guy that provides all the peppers,” Holst said, listing his numerous suppliers. “I have a guy who basically grows the tomatoes for me and grows the lettuce for me, all the sprouts that you see — he grows.”
During his many years in Charleston area kitchens, Holst said he used to fight to get fresh, local ingredients like the ones people now willingly bring to his doorstep. It’s all part of the neighborhood support system, one that Holst has seen support him and his team in ways he’d never imagined.
“I had one gentleman who has been to every single [special] dinner I’ve done. I see him twice a week,” Holst said. “He was over at the wine bar and somebody was like, ‘I’ve never been to Bexley,’ and he walked him over here, bought him an app and said, ‘You’re welcome’ and walked away. And I remember thinking — Coca-Cola doesn’t have branding like that.”
The commitment to Bexley comes from Holst’s staff, too. A recent visit to the restaurant saw a server walking in the door promptly at 4 p.m. — not to work, but to enjoy a night out on her night off.
Holst said he remembers a night when he tried to help in the kitchen but his staff let him know they had everything under control. So, he stood in the dining room, out of the way.
“And I stood right there. And I watched and I saw the food coming out,” he said.
“And I remember thinking like, ‘Oh, my God, man, like we’re really doing it.’ They’re doing it. It looks like what I want it to look like … I guess it’s like jazz, man. It’s neat. It still excites me.”
Frontier from page 11
Rūta Smith
Bexley chef-owner Jeremy Holst and chef Mike Hirshfield serve fresh, inventive food to hungry suburbanites
@pearlzoysterbar
@pearlzoysterbarwestashley
DOWNTOWN
@kaminskys
167
The perfect bite
Cool
off with Charleston’s fresh ceviche preparations
By Gabriela Capestany
Summer is well underway in the South as temperatures soar into the 90s and relentless humidity drenches anyone who sets foot outside of an air-conditioned space. Amid the intense heat that saturates Charleston during the summer months, a cold dish like ceviche offers welcome relief.
The raw, fresh seafood often cured with citrus and tossed with complementary vegetables is a classic South American staple with Peruvian roots.
Spanish-American nations along the coast of the Pacific have offered their own take on the dish for centuries, with variants that may include different kinds of
peppers, corn, garnishes and accompaniments. And now, some of Charleston’s best restaurants have started to offer new interpretations on ceviche.
167 Raw’s prime protein
A seafood favorite on lower King Street (with 167 Sushi and Bar 167 spinoffs), the main 167 Raw location features a scallop ceviche perfect for sharing. 167 Raw’s ceviche goes back to the roots of the dish by putting an emphasis on seafood and citrus.
“We do a blend of orange, lemon and lime [for] the juice base. The protein does rotate. We’ll do it based on availability, [like] hal-
Joey Izzo
Raw’s ceviche rotates between bass, scallop and snapper
Chef Alex Yellan serves a modern ceviche preparation at Colectivo
ibut, bass, scallop, and sometimes we’ll do the beeliner snappers if we get the big ones,” Chef Bailey Campbell said.
The portions are certainly generous, with a deep dish of seafood adorned with pickled red onion, chives, cilantro, a little bit of house hot sauce and Peruvian sweet drop peppers. Served with cumin-dusted, housefried corn tortilla chips, Campbell agreed the dish is perfect to enjoy among friends.
“It’s definitely not a big profit margin thing for us,” he said, and explained that “ceviche in a lot of places is just kind of like your scrap stuff, it’ll be like your trimmings continued on page 16
“It’s a pretty delicate balance between wanting to do something that’s traditional, but at the same time, recognizing that within the realm of Mexican seafood, it’s very, very much an evolving sort of field.”
—Colectivo chef Alex Yellan
Brunching Besties! with
EVERY SATURDAY & SUNDAY 10AM – 3PM
Courtesy Colectivo
from your fish or shrimp or you just throw some oysters or something in, but we’re putting real prime proteins in there.”
Colectivo’s ceviche evolution
Charleston newcomer Colectivo is less than a year old but has already generated plenty of buzz around its Mexican cuisine.
“We just recently switched from a very traditional style of ceviche to a little bit more of a modern preparation. It’s a pretty delicate balance between wanting to do something that’s traditional, but at the same time, recognizing that within the realm of Mexican seafood, it’s very, very much an evolving sort of field,” Chef Alex Yellan said.
He opts for a salt-cured option featuring a rotating selection of snapper and finishes the dish off with a complex, savory sauce.
“The inspiration behind the dish is going to be the flavor, particularly the flavor of hoja santa, which is a large leaf that is used very commonly in moles as well as sometimes in desserts. … It kind of has a little bit of a sarsaparilla-y aroma, a little bit anise-y as well.”
After salting and drying the snapper, the fish is wrapped in hoja santa leaves from a Johns Island farm.
“The perfume on the fish, it’s fairly subtle. It’s something that would kind of get lost, I think, if you were just tasting on its own. So we also made an hoja santa oil to drizzle over the top of it,” Yellan explained.
The addition of coconut milk in the sauce and toasted coconut flake over the top of the dish offers a creamy, slightly sweet flavor to complement Yellan’s use of cascabel chilis which “are pretty mild as far as it goes, but they have like a nice sort of like chili, fruity quality to it,” Yellan said.
Husk Bar & Patio’s light and bright dish
A uniquely seasonal twist on ceviche can be found at Husk’s Bar & Patio. Local yellowfin tuna from CudaCo. on James Island is paired with melon for a refreshing combination.
Husk’s general manager David Fluharty described some of the inspiration behind the choice.
“Chef Ray [England] uses local farmers and their produce as inspiration when creating any new dish. Summer in South Carolina is the season for all things melon. Fortunately, Bradford Farms gives Husk access to some of the best melons in the Southeast.”
While the cantaloupe brings Southern flavor to the dish, the addition of a nuoc cham marinade and fresh Thai basil bring Asian flavors. A sweet potato puree
“A ceviche became a no-brainer since there is nothing better than a light, bright, and refreshing dish on a hot summer day.”
—Husk General Manager David Fluharty
on the base of the plate balances out the fresh citrus flavors and brings some textural depth.
“A ceviche became a no-brainer since there is nothing better than a light, bright, and refreshing dish on a hot summer day,” Fluharty said.
Maya del Sol Kitchen’s special nights
Perhaps the most unique and authentic ceviche experience lies with Chef Raul Sanchez and his five-course ceviche night.
“We’ve been doing ceviche [nights] since we opened five years ago, and we do it throughout the summer when it’s hot because people want a lighter meal. …
We’re a chef’s table dinner, so my ceviche night is going to be whatever I find in the market when I go shopping, whatever’s the freshest,” he said.
He brings diners on a tour through Latin America and Spain with inventive, fresh fish dishes and insightful conversation on his culinary choices. Citrus and acid are at the forefront of any ceviche dish, and Sanchez uses this process to offer a cold, refreshing dinner to Charleston customers.
“I go across Latin America and all my research and all I’ve ever looked at, they are all ‘cooked’ in acid … that’s a way of cooking it without adding heat to it,” he said.
While customers can expect a rotating selection during each special ceviche night, the most recent event featured a stunning variety of courses: Mexican-style ceviche featuring honeycrisp apples, shrimp and a spicy, tangy sauce; the traditional Peruvian version served with a honey-drizzled sweet potato “to cut the heat” and topped with toasted corn nuts; an inventive Argentinian “fruit cocktail” ceviche with scallops, pears, grapes and a tropical juice marinade; a deeply savory Spanish interpretation with smoky roasted corn and Spanish octopus and rich olive oil.
Sanchez finished off the evening with a mole Mexican chocolate ice cream garnished with sesame seeds, and kept house-made margaritas flowing throughout the dinner. Outside of specialthemed nights like the ceviche dinner (scheduling and announcements can be found on Maya del Sol Kitchen’s instagram), the restaurant is open for lunch Wednesday-Friday, dinner (reservation only) Thursday-Saturday, and Sunday brunch.
Get your fill of fresh ceviche at Maya del Sol Kitchen’s seasonal dinners
Photos by Rūta Smith
Enjoy great local hotspots for dining out this summer
By Connelly Hardaway
While there are a number of outdoor dining options in the Lowcountry (and we encourage you to try every one!), these bars, restaurants and coffee shops are some of our favorite places for lounging, noshing and sipping in that sweet, sweet Lowcountry heat.
Head to Herd Provisions for a relaxing happy hour, lunch or dinner under string lights and greenery that surrounds a handful of tables, couches and a large fire pit. The Wagener Terrace neighborhood joint features humanely raised and sustainably sourced food and a seasonal menu that incorporates farm-to-table ingredients. Herd’s summer menu includes dishes like local summer squash; pan seared local fish with black rice soubise, fennel confit and oregano chimichurri; nicoise field greens salad with local tuna, six-minute egg and summer beans and Leaping Waters Farm beef tartare. Herd Provisions features a special happy hour menu every day from 3 p.m. to
5 p.m., with items like local oysters, chicken wings and a variety of specialty burgers.
Open for lunch and dinner Friday and Saturday and for happy hour (3 p.m. to 5 p.m.) and dinner Monday through Thursday. herdprovisions.com
If you’re going to dine out, might as well make a night of it. Lost Isle, an exclusively outdoor restaurant, knows how to carefully curate an outdoor space, with hanging twinkling lights, chandeliers and towering oaks. Order drinks and dinner at the bar — we’re inclined to sip on a “from the freezer” selection like the classic martini — and settle down at a table with friends and family.
Coterie (top) and its coffee shop Idle Hands, features a flora-covered patio while Johns Island’s Lost Isle (above) even does all the cooking on the patio
Chef Josh Taylor is joined in the kitchen by sous chef Matt Priede and lead cook Sam Tucker. Formerly of Root Note Food, Taylor has crafted a seasonally focused menu with frequently changing specials and dishes, like whipped ricotta with smoked tomato, wood-fired oysters with chili butter and delmonico steak with chimichurri. The restaurant added a late night happy hour menu earlier this year, with dishes like the grilled ribeye sandwich, harissa buffalo chicken dip and Thai curry poutine available from 9 p.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday. Open for dinner daily. lostislechs.com
Warren Street restaurant, Coterie, serves modern American fare in the space formerly occupied by the longstanding Italian restaurant, Pane e Vino. The restaurant
consists of an intimate indoor dining space and a large, flora-focused outdoor patio. Chef Damian Sandoval has created a menu that focuses on cuisine inspired by his own background and experience with dishes like local fish thai curry, chicken tinga and lamb barbacoa. Coterie owner Jeremy Buck, who started the restaurant with his wife, Jital Vaghela, has an exceptional background as a mixologist, and Coterie’s creative cocktail list reflects that.
During the day, Coterie’s patio transforms into a coffee shop, Idle Hands. Guests can order espresso drinks, chai lattes and cocktails, as well as light bites sourced from local bakeries. Whether you’re meeting a pal for a drink, swinging by for an afternoon pick me-up or settling in for a
Photos courtesy Coterie; Rūta Smith file
little remote work, Idle Hands is a chic spot for any activity.
Idle Hands is open 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday and 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Coterie is open for dinner and happy hour Thursday through Monday. coteriechs.com
If you’re craving a relaxed lunch in a quaint courtyard, look no further than the French Quarter’s 82 Queen. Founded in 1982, 82 Queen is a classic Charleston restaurant for a reason, serving up local cuisine with a focus on gracious hospitality.
You’d be remiss not to order the restaurant’s award-winning she-crab soup — or stick with something lighter like a salad topped with fried oysters. The restaurant recently launched a mid-day menu, so if you need an afternoon snack, head to the bar from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. for a condensed menu of the restaurant’s favorites like jambalaya and chicken salad wrap. The patio is perfect for sipping, too, and 82 Queen’s cocktail list is happy to help with drinks like the barrel-aged Manhattan, Violet Vesper (a fresh take on 007’s classic drink) and the Charleston Breeze, made with tequila and grapefruit juice.
Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Friday and brunch and dinner on weekends. 82queen.com
Edmund’s Oast celebrated 10 years in Charleston earlier this year, in the same week that the restaurant made the James Beard semifinalist list for Outstanding Bar program, no less.
The stalwart spot is renowned for its food and drink program, and those things are best enjoyed in EO’s outdoor space, The Bower. With covered and open-air outdoor seating, the spot is great in all kinds of weather. Happy hour at The Bower is particularly fun: the limited drink menu hits all the right notes, with an option for beer, wine and cocktail lovers alike. Head there with a co-worker and re-hash the day’s office drama.
Open for lunch and dinner daily and happy hour (5 p.m. to 6:30 p.m.) edmundsoast.com
It’s pretty dang rare to find sidewalk and patio dining in downtown Charleston (who else would love to see King Street blocked off to street traffic permanently?) and 39 Rue de Jean is a favorite spot for sipping wine and watching passersby. The French cafe and bar based on a New York-themed restaurant is meant to evoke the vibes of a late 1800s brasserie and with traditional French dishes like coq au vin and shrimp provencal, they seem to nail it every time. And don’t forget the fries: 39 Rue de Jean is a frequent Best of Charleston winner for Best French restaurant in town. Pair a beverage or two with
Enjoy classic Southern dishes in 82 Queen’s courtyard
one of the restaurant’s six preparations of mussels and settle in for the afternoon.
Open for brunch and lunch Friday through Sunday and dinner Monday through Sunday.
holycityhospitality.com
The Mills House Hotel’s restaurant, Iron Rose, offers outdoor courtyard dining inside the historic hotel’s walled courtyard. Guests can enjoy Southern, coastal fare for breakfast, lunch, dinner and weekend brunch.
Representative menu items include dishes
SLOW DOWN, STAY AWHILE
TUE - SAT, 11A.M. - 9:30P.M.
like local shrimp served over Carolina Gold rice and the Joyce Farms half chicken served with roasted vegetable panzanella. Sip on a craft cocktail like the Amazing Grace, made with applewood smoked vodka, chinola mango, maraschino liqueur, citrus and orgeat or The Iron Rose, the restaurant’s take on an espresso martini made with vodka, coffee liqueur and fresh espresso. Iron Rose recently added a new familystyle brunch menu that’s prime for enjoying in the restaurant’s chic courtyard. Check out dishes like pork belly hash browns and wild mushroom frittata paired with carafes of mimosas and bellinis.
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Brunch available from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. on weekends. ironroserestaurant.com
Make a reservation at Cru Cafe for an intimate dinner or casual lunch on the restaurant’s porch or patio. For lunch, we love to pair the mesclun fried goat cheese salad with a side of truffle fries and a glass of crisp, white wine (the Pine Ridge chenin blanc-viognier does the trick). You can’t go wrong with any of Cru’s dinner entrees, like the grilled New York strip and Thai seafood risotto. Pair your meal with a bottle of wine or a local, craft beer and enjoy the sounds of the nearby city market and East Bay nightlife.
Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. crucafe.com
Courtesy 82 Queen
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Here’s where to go if you’re looking for something new City Paper staff
This issue’s CP Hotlist shines a spotlight on hot, relatively new restaurants that impress our cuisine team. We encourage you to check them out and let us know whether you think they should be added to our Top 50 list. Now on the CP Hotlist (in alphabetical order):
Costa (2023), Downtown. Vinson Petrillo, executive chef at Zero George, opened Costa Charleston, a restaurant dedicated to coastal Italian fare, in The Jasper at the end of last year. Costa features influences from Petrillo’s background, inspired by his upbringing, but with a coastal focus. The dinner menu changes seasonally and you’d be remiss not to try dishes that feature inseason produce, like the oysters served with olive oil and fresh crushed tomatoes. Other recent dinner items include coastal-inspired fare like Tarvin shrimp, served with sungold tomatoes, garlic and Calabrian chili, and the scallop crudo, served with passionfruit, avocado and finger lime. Don’t forget to spend
some time perusing the wine list, which features more than 350 bottles from regions across the globe. The cocktail list is pretty special, too, with drinks inspired by Italian culture (hello, spritzes). Very expensive. costacharleston.com. Dinner, Tuesday through Saturday.
La Bonne Franquette (2023), West Ashley. This sunny and sometimes loud bistro is a great all-day addition to West Ashley. Stop off for a quick coffee and croissant during the week. Or try a bistro lunch of quiche and a dressed mixed salad or a simple-but-satisfying French sandwich on crusty bread. At dinner, enjoy outstanding charcuterie and cheese before diving into scallops with butternut squash puree, French petit pots and cranberry gastrique or the classic steak and frites. Not on a solid diet? Check out the bar with its tasty libations and good wine list. Moderate. labonnefranquettechs.com. Breakfast, lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Friday. Brunch, Saturday and Sunday. Dinner, Saturday.
Lost Isle (2023), Johns Island. Walking into this open-air concept feels a little like walking onto, well, a lost island. The name is fitting for a spot that’s quirky without trying too hard, featuring chandeliers floating among the Spanish moss of live oak trees. After checking out the menu, guests can order food and drinks and seat themselves. Chef Josh Taylor, Formerly of Root Note Food, has crafted a seasonally focused menu with frequently changing specials and dishes, such as whipped ricotta with smoked tomato, wood-fired oysters with chili butter and Delmonico steak with chimichurri. Moderate. lostislechs.com. Open for dinner daily.
Lowland (2023), Downtown. James Beard Award-winning Chef Jason Stanhope opened Lowland at the end of last year, after leaving his longtime role as chef at FIG last summer. In an essay for City Paper’s winter Dish, Stanhope
Get your fix of land and sea at East Bay Street’s modern
said that he hopes to “create magic” at Lowland. The upscale tavern menu at Lowland seems pretty magical, indeed, with decadent dishes like bone-in pork chop piccata, sweet potato ravioli and cornmeal crusted skate wing ribs. Be sure to visit Stanhope’s other concept, the re-opened Quinte oyster bar, located in the Pinch Hotel. You’ll find the usual raw bar fare and a fun cocktail list, too. Expensive. lowlandcharleston.com. Open for dinner daily.
Makan (2024), Downtown. The second restaurant from chefowner James Wozniuk, Makan’s Charleston location offers the same Malaysian fare found at its original location in Washington, D.C. Makan DC has received a number of awards since opening in 2020, including a Michelin Bib Gourmand every year since 2021. The menu features a wide variety of Malaysian dishes, inspired by Wozniuk’s travels throughout southeast Asia. The menu is divided into small plates, noodles and main dishes and guests are encouraged to share plates. Don’t miss the Sambal Udang Petai, a shrimp dish made with sambal tumis,
tamarind, chili and “stink beans,” Southeast Asian legumes known for their distinct smell and nutty flavor. Expensive. makanchs.com. Dinner Tuesday through Saturday.
Marbled & Fin (2024), Downtown. If you’ve been in the market for a new modern steakhouse — one that serves delicate, flavorful hamachi crudo alongside a big, bold bone-in tomahawk, look no further. The attention to detail at Neighborhood Dining Group’s latest begins the moment you step into Marbled & Fin — the vaulted ceilings and chic interior belie the building’s history as a dry cleaners. Reservations are recommended for the dining room at this buzzy new spot, but guests are always welcome to belly up to the 25-seat bar, first-come, firstserved. The details continue to impress throughout the meal, from welcome cocktails to an evening-ending sweet bite. Be sure to try the broiled oysters and bone marrow appetizer. Made with herb bread crumbs, charred lemon and chimichurri, it’s the perfect mix of land and sea. Very expensive. marbledandfin.com. Dinner nightly.
Courtesy Makan
Chef James Wozniuk brings big, bold flavors with his restaurant Makan
Andrew Cebulka
steakhouse Marbled & Fin
Sorelle’s ‘Pillows of Gold’ ricotta tortelloni is served with prosciutto cotto, ‘very good butter’ and balsamic
Eating well
In an attempt to make it easier for you to find great restaurants in Charleston when searching for “food” results in a sea of suggestions, we offer The Dish Top 50 restaurants. From incredible, internationally inspired dining experiences like Bintu Atelier or Kultura to more casual dining joints like Berkeley’s and Bowens Island Restaurant, there’s no shortage of fantastic dining experiences in town. What sets these 50 establishments apart isn’t price or location. It’s the dedication each establishment puts into providing dining memories. This is the list to give family or friends visiting the city. It’s the list to scan through when you’re undecided. It’s a list with options for every budget. And it’s the list that, like Charleston and the seasons, is ever-changing.
Organized in alphabetical order.
167 Raw Oyster Bar
SEAFOOD
Expensive
Downtown. 193 King St. (843) 579-4997 167raw.com
Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)
Surrounded by high-end boutiques, swanky inns, antique stores and art galleries, 167 Raw’s King Street home sits along a quiet stretch of storefronts. But fear not, it still boasts the same lineup of New England bivalves and lobster rolls that were muchlauded at its existing original (and teeny) spot at 289 East Bay St., which now operates as 167 Sushi Bar. The first floor of 167 Raw’s ever-so-charming 19th century building is long and narrow, with original brick walls and a walnut bar. Even with four times (at least) as much seating as its original space, 167 Raw gets packed. Arrive early to tuck into your 10-hour carnita taco and tuna burger.
Basic Kitchen
CAFE
Moderate Downtown. 82 Wentworth St. (843) 789-4568 basickitchen.com
Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.), Weekend Brunch
In a city filled with hearty Southern cuisine, sometimes it’s tricky to find a
flavorful, light meal. Not the case at Basic Kitchen. According to co-owner Ben Towill, that has been exactly the goal since opening the restaurant with his wife Kate in 2017. “We want to provide massive flavor and a meal that’s hearty but still feels light,” he said. Robin Hollis, who took over as Basic Kitchen executive chef in July 2019, has honed in on this mission by creating more wholesome dishes that highlight vegetables from local purveyors. BK’s lunch menu is divided into small plates, bowls, salads, sandwiches and sweets. For dinner selections, it offers big plates like market fish with peach salsa, cilantro, avocado and lime or chicken or cauliflower schnitzel.
Soak in the North Central neighborhood from the front patio and escape King Street crowds at this spot that feels like going over to a friend’s home for dinner. Berkeley’s keeps its menu relatively simple but packs big flavor into each dish with plenty of options for meat-eaters and vegetarians alike. Opt for a traditional or vegetarian cheesesteak (made with mushrooms) or select another savory sandwich. If you’ve craving something heavier, look to chicken or eggplant parmesan, cavatappi or hanger steak. One satisfied diner said, “The spicy shrimp polenta appetizer has been on my mind for weeks since I first tried it. It’s filling, flavorful and definitely more than enough to share. Pair it with the smoked salmon dip if you want to start your meal with a decadent seafood spread.”
Bertha’s Kitchen
SOUL FOOD
Inexpensive
Downtown. 2332 Meeting Street Road. (843) 554-6519
Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Fri.)
Head up Meeting Street until you see a two-story robin’s egg blue building with purple trim and a line stretching out the
SUMMER TIME ON SHEM CREEK
Waterfront & outside dining featuring local fish, and Lowcountry favorites.
SUNDAY BRUNCH 11am - 3pm, Build your own BLOODY MARY BAR!
Live Music
Every Wednesday (5:30-8:30) Friday (6-9) & Sunday (3-6)
WINE SPECTATOR AWARD OF EXCELLENCE
Over 200 Selections!
Name that Tune Trivia Every Monday @6pm in the Cabana Bar! LIVE MUSIC Thurs-Sun 6:30-9:30pm
door. The Southern soul food platters here are so tasty, generous and inexpensive, that the line starts forming well before it’s open for lunch. Businessmen, laborers and far-flung tourists alike shuffle through the quick cafeteria-style service counter loaded with a smorgasbord of meat and threes, such as fried pork chops, fish specials, yams, stewed greens, homestyle mac-and-cheese, limas nestled with smoked turkey necks, dark roux okra soup, moist cornbread and fried chicken better than anyone’s Grandma ever made. Bertha’s building was announced for sale earlier this year, but has since been taken off the market.
Bintu Atelier
AFRICAN
Moderate
Downtown. 8 Line St. (347)249-6594
Serving Lunch, Dinner (Thurs-Sun)
This small restaurant in Charleston’s Eastside serves delicious African cuisine to excited guests who are eager to dive into familiar favorites like jollof rice, a fluffy rice dish with a connection to Charleston’s own red rice. Diners can also dig into dishes like goat egusi, a ground melon seed stew with pumpkin, spinach and a red pepper sauce, served with a side of starchy fufu. Chef N’Daw Young has cooked and traveled around the world, from her homelands of Senegal and France, to various countries in Africa, Europe and the U.S., landing in New York before moving to Charleston. Vegetarian options offered.
Bistronomy by Nico
FRENCH
Expensive
Downtown. 64 Spring St. (843) 410-6221
bistronomybynico.com
Serving Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch
One month after getting the keys to 64 Spring St., Bistronomy by Nico co-owners Nico Romo and Dominique Chantepie opened the French bistro after revamping the space previously occupied by Josephine Wine Bar. The cuisine mirrors the vibrant atmosphere and draws on celebrated dishes from Romo’s 10 years at Fish, which closed in 2017 after 17 years on King Street. Romo calls Bistronomy’s menu approachable French cuisine with an Asian fusion twist. The menu changes seasonally, but at the time of publishing, it included items like frog legs, 24-hour short ribs, bouillabaisse and escargot rice dumplings. If you want to sample Romo’s fare in Mount Pleasant, his original bistro NICO sits right off of Shem Creek.
Bowens Island Restaurant
SEAFOOD
Moderate
James Island. 1870 Bowens Island Road. (843) 795-2757
bowensisland.com
Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)
Don’t expect white tablecloth and maitre d’service at Bowens Island. It’s famously no frills, but it’s worth it. The nightly crowds are a testament to the family fish camp. Since its founding in 1946, it’s grown from a grimy, albeit quaint, cinder block outpost to a pluff-mud pantheon that offers up damn good fried seafood, hushpuppies and cold local beer in its upstairs dining room. Follow your nose downstairs and elbowout yourself a space at the all-you-can-eat oyster tables and slurp down tasty local oysters by the shovelful that were likely pulled off the marsh that day. Oyster season or not, we have a hard time passing up the Frogmore Stew, a pot full of potatoes, sau-
sage, corn on the cob and shrimp steamed together as God intended it.
Charleston Grill
MODERN AMERICAN
Very Expensive
Downtown. 224 King St. (843) 577-4522 charlestongrill.com
Serving Dinner (Wed.-Thurs.)
Amid ever-shifting culinary fashions, Charleston Grill has remained one of the city’s crown jewels by delivering a consistently flawless dining experience. Chef de cuisine Suzy Castelloe’s dishes can be decadently lush, like her beef tenderloin with a red wine gastrique or seared foie gras, spiked with a strawberry jam and balsamic vinegar. The dishes are balanced, ingredient-centric creations, while contemporary spins on Southern cuisine are bold and satisfying. The best way to experience the full sweep of the cuisine is to pick out items from each section of the menu and sit
back to enjoy the house jazz band tucked in the corner.
Chasing Sage
MODERN AMERICAN
Expensive
Downtown. 267 Rutledge Ave. (854) 444-3402
chasingsagerestaurant.com
Serving dinner (Mon.-Sat.)
Focused on farm-to-table cuisine, Chasing Sage is always a delight because you never quite know what dishes will appear on the menu. The plates rotate regularly, depending on what’s in season and what local purveyors provide. You might indulge in small plates like corn dumplings with bacon and chili oil or blue crab lettuce wraps topped with avocado and watermelon. Plates are organized by price and designed to be shared. Dishes are often
Andrew Cebulka
The snapper ceviche at Gabrielle, located inside Hotel Bennett, is the perfect summer dish
843.534.2433 @crubarchs www.crucatering.com
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veggie-forward, but there are plenty of options for meat eaters. If you’re dining with a large group, opt for the chef’s choice and let the kitchen decide.
Most mornings before lunch, the Chez Nous Instagram feed (@cheznouscharleston) features a picture of the day’s menu, handwritten in black ink on a small white card in executive chef Jill Mathias’ eccentric and highly stylized script. Next comes a separate picture of each and every dish being served that day, taken from above in flawless light. Admittedly, it’s only seven pictures total, since Chez Nous serves just two starters, two entrees and two desserts, and the selection changes daily. The setting is charmingly old and the cuisine Europeaninspired, but it’s hardly a throwback to an older mode of dining. Chez Nous stands alone just as it is, an eccentric outlier. With such a dynamic menu, any review of Chez Nous is by necessity a fleeting snapshot.
Trattoria Lucca headed out to Isle of Palms to create a beachside Italian seafood restaurant. The beautiful second-story dining room has brick walls, reclaimed wood floors and, in a rarity for the Lowcountry, floor-to-ceiling windows offering a lovely view of the Atlantic. It’s an ideal setting for Vedrinski’s signature high-end Italian fare, which offers plenty of bright flavors and unexpected twists. Masterful pasta anchors the primi selection, which includes ricotta gnudi tossed with mushrooms, guanciale (pork jowls) and vacche rosse parmesan cheese. The secondi highlights fresh fish like swordfish and swordfish “marsala.” Pair any of these with an Italian wine from the impressive list, and you’ll have one splendid fish tale to share with friends.
Dave’s Carry-Out
SOUL FOOD/SEAFOOD
Inexpensive
Downtown. 42-C Morris St. (843) 577-7943 facebook.com/Daves-CarryOut-111720082197029/
Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)
Chubby Fish
SEAFOOD
Expensive
Downtown. 252 Coming St. (843) 222-3949 chubbyfishcharleston.com
Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)
Executive chef James London serves a hyper-local, daily changing menu at this vibrant Coming Street restaurant, which opened in June 2018. And while the fish selection may vary, London is known for a few signature preparations. Expect raw oysters, crudos and likely one small plate that incorporates caviar. We recommend ordering several dishes and sharing with the group before finishing off with sweets from Life Raft Treats’ Cynthia Wong, who supplies Chubby Fish with dessert. Chubby Fish doesn’t take reservations, but it’s well worth the wait for one of 30 or so seats inside a restaurant that prides itself on turning under utilized types of fish into dishes you’ll crave for weeks.
Coda del Pesce
ITALIAN/SEAFOOD
Expensive
Isle of Palms. 1130 Ocean Blvd. (843) 242-8570 codadelpesce.com
Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)
With Coda del Pesce, Chef/owner Ken Vedrinski of former downtown mainstay
This soul food joint offers a true taste of Charleston. For under $10 you can get a takeout box filled to the brim with the best of Lowcountry cooking like pork chops, crispy chicken wings and finger-lickin’ ribs. The selection of sides is small but tasty — try the lima beans, thick steak fries, or rice. The lunch specials change daily, but your best bet is to go with a seafood platter, which ranges from $10 for a generous portion of shrimp to $20 for shrimp, fish, scallops and deviled crab. If you want a true local experience, opt for the lima beans and rice. It’s meaty and filling. A few tables allow customers to dine in, but most folks get their Dave’s to-go, whether for lunch or a greasy late-night snack.
Delaney Oyster House
SEAFOOD
Expensive
Downtown. 115 Calhoun St. (843) 594-0099
delaneyoysterhouse.com
Serving Dinner (daily)
The Neighborhood Dining Group — owners of Husk — have converted an old single house on Calhoun Street into a stunner of a seafood restaurant. The raw bar offerings range from local oysters and clams to hackleback caviar, and Executive Chef Will Fincher’s inventive small plates are stylish and intensely flavored. The menu has featured rich poached lobster tossed with mayo and lemon and scallops served with butternut squash farrotto, brown butter and sunflower seeds. Each dish is finished with a precise visual style that befits the picture-perfect setting. Grab a seat out on the second floor piazza, order a glass of chilled red wine and dig in.
Edison James Island
Moderate
James Island. 1014 Fort Johnson Road (843) 872-5500
Edisonjamesisland.com
Serving Dinner (Wed.-Sun.)
Be prepared for a loud experience at this place where you can taste the world with Lowcountry ingredients. Co-owner and chef Joel Lucas puts his culinary skills to work in the kitchen with creative takes on international cuisine by using a rotating seasonal menu that highlights local produce and seafood available in the area.
Start dinner off with the Vietnamese pho taco made with hoisin pork, glass noodles, cilantro, sprouts, ginger aioli and sriracha or the chef’s selection of charcuterie and cheeses, full-bodied sandwiches, soups and salads. Examples: the poached salmon burger, Thai chicken noodle soup and bistro steak salad. There also are hearty entrees like green curry meatballs, blackstrap braised beef short ribs with smoked gouda grits, pan-seared local swordfish with chimichurri, green peppercorns, asparagus and purple sweet potatoes.
continued on page 30
Gately Williams
Pitmaster John Lewis brings Tex-Mex cuisine to Charleston at Rancho Lewis
Estadio
TAPAS
Moderate Downtown. 122 Spring St. estadio-chs.com
Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)
Estadio, which opened on Spring Street in October 2019, is technically the second outpost of a successful Washington, D.C., Spanish-style bar and tapas restaurant. The decor and the deep sherry and gin selection echo the D.C. original, but Executive Chef Alex Eaton’s impressive menu is unique to Charleston. The pintxos and tapas — grilled shrimp on skewers, deviled eggs and caviar and matriano hash browns with black and white anchovies — offer beguiling little bites. Fresh local crudo and flat iron steak cooked with a poblano romesco and served with caramelized leek mashed potatoes are offered on the heavier side. With a slate of sherry cocktails, “gin tonics” made with rare Spanish brands and porróns of wine, Estadio brings a brilliant taste of Spain to the heart of downtown Charleston.
FIG
MODERN AMERICAN
Very Expensive
Downtown. 232 Meeting St. (843) 805-5900 eatatfig.com
Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)
In 2003, Chef Mike Lata set out to prove that “food is good.” After blazing a trail for the robust local farm-to-table restaurant scene, FIG still stands out, winning awards and creating devotees year after year. Although snagging a reservation can be a challenge, the seasonally inspired cuisine and impeccable service are worth the effort. Change is a constant, but stalwart menu standbys, like the pillowy ricotta gnocchi alla bolognese, never fail to satisfy. Be sure to check out the wine offerings, as — along with two nods for Best Chef Southeast — FIG is also a national James Beard award-winner for Outstanding Wine Program.
Gabrielle
MODERN AMERICAN
Very Expensive
Downtown. 404 King St. (843) 203-0922 hotelbennett.com
Serving Lunch, dinner
If you’re looking for the perfect internationally inspired dinner, this is the place for you. It’s lush, quiet and feels serious without being stuffy. An attentive bar staff pours cocktails as inventors must have imagined. Chef Edgar Kano’s menu choices, influenced by Japanese and Latin flavors, makes
on the East Side of downtown Charleston that, according to owner L.J. Huger, has “been feeding the soul of the city” for more than 40 years. After serving the community for so many years, Hannibal’s has become an institution in the Charleston food scene. It was even listed on The New York Times 2021 top 50 restaurants in the country. Try the signature dish “crab and shrimp rice.” Salmon, shrimp and shark steak are three other hot items at lunch time. And don’t skip out on the traditional Southern sides including lima beans, okra soup, fried chicken, pork chops and collard greens.
Herd Provisions
Moderate to expensive
Upper Charleston. 106 Grove St. (843) 637-4145
Lunch (Mon.-Thurs) and Dinner (all week)
This minimalist, farm-to-table restaurant has a high-end butchery that offers proteins to a kitchen that transforms them into mouth-watering, satisfying dishes like seared steaks, roasted chicken, pan-seared local fish and luscious pork chops. Herd, also known for burgers, offers delightful vegetable-forward dishes, too. Examples: a perfect Caesar salad and portobello mushrooms stuffed with artichokes and capers. You also might want to try the restaurant’s spicy and savory dry-rubbed chicken wings, which are moist and pull right off the bone. Pro tip: Enjoy a relaxing outside happy hour under string lights and greenery with tables, couches and a large fire pit. Happy hour menu every day.
Husk Restaurant
Expensive
Downtown. 76 Queen St. (843) 577-2500
huskrestaurant.com
Serving Dinner (daily),Sat.-Sun. Brunch
dining fun, as we wrote in 2023: “Kano’s cooking philosophy is to keep it simple — he said he can’t live without salt and butter — and let the ingredients of each dish shine. He said overwhelming flavors can lead to ‘confusion, not fusion’ and that ‘less is always more.’” Ask about specials and enjoy fresh seafood, flavorful steaks and outstanding produce intentionally sourced from local purveyors.
Halls Chophouse
STEAKHOUSE
Expensive
Downtown. 434 King St. (843) 727-0090
Hallschophouse.com
Serving Dinner (Mon.-Thurs.), Lunch (Sat.-Sun.)
Sure, there are newer and “hotter” restaurants, but Halls Chophouse is a special
occasion classic for a reason. You can’t get better service with your steak, the wine list includes some unexpected offerings and the cocktails are generous. And the steak, of course, is fabulous. Pro tip: order the giant tomahawk cut and split it. One diner told us to order any of the dried aged steaks, especially if you need a reason to cry tears of joy. “While I have only eaten there a few times for dinner,” he said. “I dream of the next opportunity to go back.”
Hannibal’s Kitchen
SOUL FOOD
Inexpensive
Downtown. 16 Blake St. (843) 722-2256 Hannibalkitchen.com
Serving Lunch, Dinner (Sun.-Sat.)
Hannibal’s Kitchen is a no-frills soul joint
Husk has outposts in Nashville, Greenville and Savannah, but this location — housed in a white mansion on Queen Street — is the original. Here, the kitchen creates must-try marvels with a frequently changing menu like Southern fried chicken skins, “Kentuckyaki” pigs ear lettuce wraps or the hulking Carolina heritage pork chop, while dessert offerings include such innovations as the savory-sweet cornbread pudding. There’s a welcoming, rustic atmosphere indoors, but if weather permits, sit out on the upstairs porch and enjoy what is, without hesitation, Southern food at its best.
Rūta Smith file photo
Pair Herd Provisions’ braised pork shank pasta with a glass of pink or orange wine
Live, Work, Play Downtown at IRON FORGE
The ever-changing menu at Jack of Cups Saloon offers diners exciting new dishes
Top 50 from page 30
Jack of Cups Saloon
Inexpensive
Folly Beach. 34 Center St. (843) 633-0042
jackofcupssaloon.net
Serving lunch, dinner (Wed.-Mon.)
Jack of Cups Saloon describes its cuisine as “globally inspired comfort food made with love,” and anyone who has dined here understands why. Jack of Cups co-owner and Chef Lesley Carroll puts creativity and care into every dish she develops. And she’s always quick to offer a smile or share a laugh with diners. Menu offerings rotate with the
seasons and incorporate unique, unexpected flavor combinations like the ever-popular red curry mac and cheese. Other unusual and delicious offerings that have popped up on the menu include Tom Kha Gai gnocchi, a traditional Vietnamese coconut brothturned-sauce blended with a classic Italian dumpling, and Cap’N Crunch deviled eggs. Check the menu ahead of time to discover the latest Jack of Cups creations. One diner is particularly fond of the ever-changing menu. “The seasonal menu brings new, exciting changes every quarter,” she said. “This summer’s Cashew Korma was hands down the best curry I’ve ever put in my mouth. Sweet and savory, I couldn’t get enough. I felt like I died and went to curry heaven.”
Rūta Smith file photo
Jackrabbit Filly
CHINESE
Moderate
North Charleston. 4628 Spruill Ave. (843) 460-0037
jackrabbitfilly.com
Serving Lunch, Dinner (Wed.-Sat.), Sun. Brunch
The menu at Jackrabbit Filly — Shuai and Corrie Wang’s brick-and-mortar jump from their popular Short Grain food truck — takes quintessential Asian fare, and adds some vamp. The pork and cabbage dumplings are where Yangtze meets Ganges, with a rich mix of pork, cabbage, ginger and coriander encased inside the perfectly cooked pasta wrapper. Topped with a pungent chinkiang vinegar and Lao Gan Ma chili crisp sauce, the first bite is like suddenly finding something in life you hadn’t even realized was missing. Short Grain’s beloved karaage endures — the meat is juicy, the coating crunchy and the drizzle of lemon mayo and ponzu, along with some togarashi-induced heat, should be presented with the following disclaimer: “The karaage is a small structure made of chicken. It is delicious, and you are not ready for it.”
Kultura
FILIPINO
Moderate Downtown. 73 Spring St. kulturacharleston.com
Serving Dinner (Thurs.-Mon) and Karaoke Brunch (Sat., Sun.)
An homage to a Filipino grandmother’s home cooking, Kultura ties the fresh tastes of the Lowcountry to the Philippines with a focus on using as many local ingredients as possible. A must-try dish is the restaurant’s pancit made with rice noodles, local blue crab and vegetables in a calamansi sauce. Make sure you try the Halo Halo cocktail –an enticing blend of purple yam (ube), pineapple, sake and oat milk. Also of note: You know you’ll get good food because Kultura’s chef, Nikko Cagalanan, is one of five 2024 nominees for Best Emerging Chef by the James Beard Foundation.
Kwei Fei
CHINESE
Moderate
James Island. 1977 Maybank Hwy. kweifei.com
Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)
Set next door to Charleston Pour House in the space previously occupied by The Lot, Kwei Fei’s interior looks the same-ish, except now the chairs are yellow and you’ll find some Asian knick knacks scattered about. But the updates are the only understated thing about Kwei Fei. Pretty much nothing else — from the food to the music to the chef himself — can be described as subtle. Kwei Fei’s menu is an equally wild
ride, offering an array of appetizers, entrees and veggie-based sides sorted into blocks labeled “Loud,” “Hot” and “Vibes.” The crescent dumplings are an outstanding way to give your tastebuds a crash course in the events to come. Made with ground pork and redolent Sichuan pepper, the five plump dumplings are served in a soy-based, vinegary sauce and topped with fresh cilantro and chives. Hot, sour, salty, sweet: everyone’s here. On the “vibes” side of things, vegetarians are well-taken care of with the dry-fried green beans. Here some rice makes sense and adds bulk to the dry, fried shiitakes and peppers, which are coated in sichuan peppercorn and fermented bean paste, served with mushrooms and of course, peppers.
Lewis Barbecue
BARBECUE
Expensive
Downtown. 464 N. Nassau St. (843) 805-9500
lewisbarbecue.com
Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)
Lewis’ building houses four custom-built smokers and a sausage smoker that can cook 1,600 links at a time, all hand-built by Lewis and his father. Once inside, you’ll queue up to have meat hand-sliced by one of two meat-cutters stationed behind a long counter directing you to opposite ends. Lewis’ “life changing’’ beef brisket is definitely the star. The infinitely tender meat has a salty, peppery crust and shines with melted fat. But there’s also juicy smoked turkey, pulled pork, pork ribs and Texas sausage called “hot guts” available and priced by the pound (or hot guts by the link). After your tray is filled with your order of meats, choose your sides from mustardy potato salad, lemon slaw, cowboy beans and rich green chile corn pudding.
Ma’am Saab
PAKISTANI
Moderate
Charleston. 251 Meeting St. (843) 259-2660
MaamSaab.com
Serving lunch (Fri.-Sat.) and dinner (Tues.-Sat.) If you’re looking for “flavorland,” you should check out this elegant but nonwhite-tablecloth Pakistani restaurant that offers modern takes on time-tested dishes. Owners Maryam Ghaznavi and Raheel Gauba took Charleston by storm with their authentic Pakistani comfort food, first as a pop-up in 2019. The couple introduced a new cuisine to the market, bringing to the table dishes like lamb biryani or aloo gobi. You’ll also enjoy the rich, savory and spicy flavors of chicken
tikka and butter chicken. And the fresh naan? It’s to die for. Don’t forget the restaurant’s Mount Pleasant roadhouse called Malika Pakistani Chai Canteen in Towne Center where you can get Pakistani street food such as samosa chaats, aloo tikki, dhamaka burger and more.
Maya del Sol Kitchen
MEXICAN
Moderate
North Charleston. 1813 Reynolds Ave. Suite B (843) 225-2390
Maya del Sol Kitchen is a good passion project for Chef and owner Raul Sanchez, and it clearly shows. When the kitchen first opened in 2021, Sanchez started by offering his five-course chef’s table. He now serves lunch and brunch, too, where you can find Mexican standards like pozole, tamales or tacos al pastor. But if you’re looking for something a little heartier, try items on the rotating menu, such as the beef heart guisado (stewed beef heart) or puerco asado (roasted pork). Pro-tip: Check Instagram or Facebook for the lunch and brunch menus. For dinner, Sanchez is always cooking something special for his chef’s tasting menu, whether he creates dishes inspired by family recipes or hosts a themed night like an Italian dinner or an international ceviche special. Give the restaurant a ring for a seat at the table.
Oak Steakhouse
STEAKHOUSE
Expensive
Downtown. 17 Broad St. (843) 722-4220
oaksteakhouserestaurant.com
Serving Dinner (daily)
Located in a restored 150-year-old bank building, Oak is a long-running favorite for a big Charleston night out. Hefty prime ribeyes and strips are the main attractions, with luxurious family-style accompaniments like creamy whipped potatoes and lobster mac and cheese. Within the traditional steakhouse format, there is always a twist or two, like a daily local seafood special or beef belly with sorghum barbecue sauce. The deep wine list focuses on California reds, and the service is reliably top-notch, regardless of whether you eat downstairs in the bar area, with its exposed brick walls and clubby red leather booths, or at the white cloth-draped tables in the second story dining room, its high windows looking out over Broad Street.
At The Obstinate Daughter, Executive Chef Jacques Larson’s big, open kitchen has a plancha and a wood-fired oven, and he uses it to create a beguiling array of pizzas, pastas and small plates. The pizzas bear tempting toppings, like guanciale, white anchovy or pancetta. The dishes on the rotating “plates” menu range in size from griddled octopus with crispy potatoes and black olive tapenade to swordfish siciliana with green olives, capers, tomatoes, raisins and currant. Fluffy ricotta gnocchi
are topped with an intensely flavorful short rib ragu with tender strands of beef in a pool of reddish orange tomato-tinged jus. OD boasts a cheery, casual environment for enjoying Larson’s impressive parade of delicate but flavorful dishes. And that makes it one of the best upscale dining destinations not just out on the beaches, but anywhere in town.
The Ordinary
SEAFOOD
Expensive Downtown. 544 King St. (843) 414-7060 eattheordinary.com
Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)
In December 2012, a historic King Street bank building found new life as an upscale oyster hall. The Ordinary — second child
of Adam Nemirow and Chef Mike Lata — opened with soaring 22-foot ceilings, the promise of locally sourced seafood and lots of buzz. The Ordinary was the first of its kind. While regularly packed and filled with an upbeat ambiance, The Ordinary’s high ceilings diffuse the jovial noise to a pleasant buzz. Along with six daily varieties of raw oysters on the half shell, the house-smoked oysters are not to be missed. Presented in an oil and vinegarfilled preserve jar and spiked with slices of crisp pickled celery, the six oysters are so gently smoked that they are still raw. As a result, each is tender and juicy, the delicate hint of ocean flavor touched with woodsy smoke. Served with fancied-up
Luke Higgs @lukehiggsphotos
Berkeley’s reuben is made with corned beef, swiss, Thousand Island dressing and sauerkraut on griddled rye
LOOK AND FEEL YOUR BEST
saltines (brushed with butter and Old Bay), rich, cold creme fraiche and vibrant hot sauce, the combination is outstanding: cool, crisp and smoky all at once.
Peninsula Grill
NEW SOUTHERN
Very Expensive
Downtown. 112 N. Market St. (843) 723-0700 peninsulagrill.com
Serving Dinner (daily)
There are milestones in life that require a fancy steak. Or at least the kind of place where one can get a fancy steak. If you’re in the midst of such an occasion, Peninsula Grill has got you covered. Even after more than two decades, Peninsula Grill continues to impress with its luxurious fare. Executive Chef Kalen Fortuna has taken the helm, bringing with him over a decade of fine dining experience with plans to change the restaurant’s course. “We’re trying to take it in a much more refined aspect,” Fortuna said about the restaurant’s new direction. “A lot less meat and the stuff that’s been there for a long time. It’s really just trying to put nice, beautifully composed plates on the dish and working a lot with local farmers & seafood.”
Post House Restaurant
MODERN AMERICAN
Expensive
Mount Pleasant. 101 Pitt St. (843) 203-7678
theposthouseinn.com
Serving Dinner (daily); Weekend Brunch Post House Restaurant opened in Mount Pleasant in August 2020 after undergoing significant renovations led by Kate and Ben Towill of design and hospitality firm Basic Projects. Post House is a reincarnation of The Old Village Post House, which closed in February 2019 after 16 years at 101 Pitt St. The Towills completely redesigned the circa-1896 space, moving the main dining room to the back of the restaurant and the bar to face Pitt Street. The space is adorned with antiques, vintage rugs, local art, archival wallpaper and handcrafted fixtures. You’ll find seasonal snacks, raw bar options, fresh pastas, local seafood and an assortment of vegetarian dishes at Post House. Local seafood massaman curry, Carolina heritage farm pork with creamy kimchi collard greens and a “backbar” cheeseburger are some of the main dishes that pair with starters like lamb wraps or Anson Mills cornbread. Post House also features an expansive wine list with bottles from around the world, and those looking for a staycation can grab a room in the quaint inn connected to the restaurant.
R Kitchen
ECLECTIC
Expensive
Downtown. 212 Rutledge Ave. West Ashley, 1337 Ashley River Road. (843) 789-0725
rutledgekitchen.com
Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)
R Kitchen brings diners an exciting new experience every night. At both locations, enjoy intimate dining settings while getting up-close and personal with a rotating line up of chefs creating that night’s fivecourse meal. R Kitchen is quick to remind guests that it’s a kitchen, not a restaurant. The menu is always a surprise — to both diners and chefs, who create the dishes each morning based on what ingredients the kitchen received that day. On a recent trip to the West Ashley location, a loaded potato soup, short rib dish and French toast with bacon made an appearance on the menu. Be sure to make a reservation in advance as these kitchens fill quickly.
Rancho Lewis
TEX-MEX
Moderate
Charleston Neck. 1503 King St. (843) 996-4500
Rancholewischs.com
Serving Lunch and Dinner (Mon.-Sun.)
Barbecue Chef extraordinaire John Lewis adds Tex-Mex to his culinary mix with Rancho Lewis, where he uses his favorite Hatch chiles in many dishes. The tortillas are made fresh onsite, and, if you can stray from the tempting tacos, the burger — made with brisket — is terrific. Don’t forget in-house classics like the Christmas burrito or fabulous enchiladas. If you’re looking for Mexican fresh, this is the place to visit. One diner raved: “Don’t leave without eating the steak fajitas. Period.”
Renzo
Moderate
Downtown. 384 Huger St. (843) 952-7864 renzochs.com
Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)
This former storefront-turned-hip neighborhood trattoria has a wood-fired oven and knows how to use it. Along with tempting starters like ricotta gnudi, charred broccolini or cavatelli, the menu features a trio of pastas, plus an array of creative Neapolitan-style pizzas. Feeling adventurous? The Cheli offers a tomato base with lamb sausage, tangy pickled peppers, honey and za’atar. There’s a bagel brunch on Sundays, plus Renzo offers one of the area’s largest selections of natural wine.
Rodney Scott’s BBQ
BARBECUE
Inexpensive
Downtown. 1011 King St. (843) 990-9535
rodneyscottsbbq.com
Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)
Rodney Scott made waves in 2017 when, after two decades of cooking hogs at his family’s acclaimed operation in Hemingway, he brought his traditional burn barrel style of barbecue down to Charleston. That splendid whole hog — basted in a pepper-laced sauce and pulled into long, succulent strands — remains the foundation of Scott’s offering on King Street, but he’s added a few new options for the city crowd, like meaty spareribs, crisp fried catfish and craft beer on tap. The flawless collards and the ribeye sandwiches, made from pit-smoked steak sliced thin and piled high on soft rolls, are musttry sleepers.
Royal Tern
SEAFOOD
Expensive
Johns Island. 3005 Maybank Hwy. (843) 718-3434
theroyaltern.com
Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)
Set on Johns Island between Wild Olive and Minero, The Royal Tern is a welcome and well-positioned addition to that existing pair of successful Maybank Highway restaurants. With a focus on fish, the menu offers an aquarium-full of options. Along with a raw bar, there are a handful of sandwiches, a half-dozen seafood entrees and a hat trick of wood-fired steaks. The building is also glorious. Outside, it’s effortlessly stylish and would look just as appropriate nestled amongst a row of upscale beachfront estates. Inside, the chic, airy space boasts wood floors and high ceilings adorned with dramatic lights that resemble giant clusters of white grapes. The interior incorporates a number of current trends, including an open kitchen, marble-topped bar and miles of banquette seating. One of the best-looking joints in the area, The Royal Tern offers a hip place to scratch a variety of seafood itches on Johns Island.
SHIKI
SEAFOOD
Moderate
Downtown. 334 E Bay St. (843) 720-8568
shikicharleston.com
Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)
One of downtown’s longest standing restaurants, SHIKI delivers fresh sushi rolls, nigiri and more in a cozy, recently renovated dining room. Owner Hae Gon
“David” Park opened SHIKI at 334 East Bay St. in 2001 after moving to Charleston from New York City, where he worked at esteemed sushi restaurants like Yuraku, serving as head sushi chef for five years. The chef prides himself on sourcing the highest-quality fish and his technique when making rolls, sashimi and nigiri that is second to none. Patrons who want to go big can order the chef’s choice “omakase,” which translates to “I’ll leave it up to you” in Japanese. Chef Park will bring out a seemingly endless assortment of sashimi and nigiri bites, allowing guests to try a little bit of everything. For less devout sushi enthusiasts, there are approachable options like tempura shrimp and avocado rolls, teriyaki beef, pork katsu and more. Shiki’s menu hasn’t changed much over the years, but why would it, as the restau-
taurant’s traditional dishes with more forward-looking fare. Pristinely fresh seafood gets an elegant Southern touch on plates like New Bedford scallops with tomato ham hock broth or seared tuna topped with crisp fried oysters and tart yellow “mustard Q” sauce. SNOB was a local charcuterie pioneer and a platter of hearty country pate, savory pork rillettes and lush chicken liver mousse is the perfect evening starter.
Sorelle
ITALIAN
Expensive
Downtown. 88 Broad St. (843) 974-1575
Sorellecharleston.com
Serving dinner (Mon.-Sun.)
If you consider yourself a foodie, then chances are you’ve heard of Sorelle, one of the hottest and most talked about restaurants of the year so far. It’s a partnership between Chefs Adam Sobel and Nick Dugan, bringing their take on classic southern Italian cuisine to the South. Everything on the menu is “a banger,” said one diner who managed to get in. A great combo, he salivated, would be to order the pane (bread) with fougasse, roasted garlic and olive oil, the cavatelli al tartufo (a mushroom pasta) with ricotta dumplings and truffle parmesan, and the pastabaked branzino for a dinner to die for.
Note: While it’s hard to get a dinner reservation here, it’s attached store (mercado) is open 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. for a quick bite.
Southbound LIVE-FIRE
Downtown. 72 Cannon St. (843) 823-0212 Southboundchs.com
Serving dinner, (Mon.-Sun)
rant helps fill a void in a city that has very few sushi-focused restaurants. Next time you’re in the mood for high quality sushi, give this family owned and operated restaurant a try.
Slightly North of Broad is the perfect place to take visiting friends for their first taste of Charleston cuisine, for it embodies so much of what makes the city’s dining scene special. Since taking the reins in 2016, Executive Chef Russ Moore has deftly balanced the res-
Live-fire cooking takes center stage at this new Cannon Street restaurant from the same folks behind Mount Pleasant’s Community Table and BarPizza, formerly Kiki & Rye. The elegant two-story dining room is located inside a historic home, which features a large wood-fire grill on the first floor. The menu, which changes daily and is posted to Facebook and Instagram each day by 3 p.m., makes great use of the grill with items such as dry-aged steak tartare with smoked egg, grilled toast and miso butter, coal-roasted Spanish octopus and grilled bone marrow with fried oysters. Examples of heartier entrees include an Australian lamb chop, crispy Orvia duck and housemade cavatelli with braised rabbit sugo.
Jonathan Boncek file photo
The Prime rib sandwich at Rodney Scott’s BBQ hits all the right notes
Stella’s
GREEK
Moderate
Downtown. 114 St. Philip St. (843) 400-0026
stellascharleston.com
Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)
It’s hard to say what’s most striking about Stella’s on St. Philip Street. Is it the hip, yet boisterous vibe? The large portions at an incredibly reasonable price point? Or the vast, authentic and consistently delicious menu? Regardless of your ultimate conclusion, this is a trifecta worth a visit… or five. The grilled octopus and spanakopita are simple perfection, while the saganaki is a visual showstopper and an excuse to pig out on cheese. Stella’s own recipes — namely her calamari and braised lamb shank with No. 5 noodles and brown butter shank sauce, are at once comforting and elevated, testimony to the woman who inspired it all.
Sushi-Wa
SUSHI
Expensive
Downtown. 1503 King St. Extension. (843) 735-8633
Sushiwacharleston.com
Serving dinner (Wed.-Sun.)
If you’re looking for an intimate date night with your significant other and a rare experience in the Southeast, head to Sushi Wa. This restaurant brings the traditional Japanese omakase dining experience to the Lowcountry, with Chefs and owners Kazu Murakami and Chris Schoedler taking your taste buds on a culinary journey. The chefs curate what you eat during a special multi-course meal with decisions based on something pre-determined by the chef. Book a night out on Resy, or if you’re lucky by following on Instagram, you might be able to snag a last-minute spot.
The James American Grill
Moderate to expensive
James Island. 1939A Maybank Hwy. (843)278-1066
Thejameschs.com
Serving Lunch (Wed.-Sun.) and Dinner (all week)
A relatively new location for fine dining on James Island, The James American Grill blends the feel of a neighborhood joint with comfortable elegance. It offers lots of nice touches – sumptuous Parker House rolls, tasty lump crab cakes with flair and fresh fish that soothes and nourishes. If you want an extra special treat, start with the creamy, rich mushroom soup with a hint of sherry that is topped by flaky pastry. Also enjoy the cozy bar and its satisfying drinks, including a rockin’ martini.
Post House offers a variety of dishes for pescatarians, vegetarians and meat eaters
Vern’s
NEW AMERICAN
Expensive
Downtown. 41 Bogard St. vernschs.com
Serving dinner (Thurs.-Mon.), weekend brunch
Tucked on the corner of Bogard and Ashe streets, Vern’s is the definition of a friendly neighborhood dining spot. And boy, is it popular. This New American restaurant offers family-style meals, which allow everyone at a table to enjoy dishes like gnochetti sardi, a rich and creamy gnocchi dish with arugula and walnut pesto, or the bavette steak with a sweet-tart balsamic glaze. If you get the chance to stop by for weekend brunch, don’t miss the sesame seed pancakes that embrace slices of local fruit and whipped ricotta for a delicate balance of sweet, creamy and nutty flavors. This, however, is a dish you might not want to share.
Wild Common
MODERN AMERICAN
Expensive
Downtown. 103 Spring St. WildCommonCharleston.com
Serving dinner (Wed.-Sun.)
The experience at Wild Common is different every time. Executive Chef Orlando Pagán changes the menu daily for a one-of-
a-kind dinner. Some items on the menu may start with crab rice with kimchi or a baked oyster for some funk. And if you’re feeling fancy AND funky, throw in a caviar course to liven up the night. Other past menu items include the delightfully pink Unicorn grits from Marsh Hen Mill with yeasted cultured butter or a robust duck breast with mushroom quiche. For dessert, expect something playful like the chef’s elevated take on a Fig Newton or the chocolate and blood orange terrine with a citrus marmalade, hazelnut and dark chocolate. No two experiences are ever the same. How cool.
Wild Olive
Expensive
Johns Island. 2867 Maybank Hwy. (843) 737-4177
wildoliverestaurant.com
Serving Dinner (daily)
Right off Maybank Highway sits Wild Olive, Chef Jacques Larson’s haven for exquisite Italian fare. Since 2009, it has served as the go-to place for anniversary dinners and reunions with old friends. A comfortable bar greets those looking for a casual bite, but don’t let that relaxed atmosphere deceive you. Larson’s food
is anything but. Incredible (and decadent) risotto fritters stuffed with sausage, spinach, Parmesan and mozzarella are a great way to start. And always ask about the specials, of which there are plenty. A past highlight was a pappardelle with prosciutto, pork and escarole. Larson is a firm believer in local and his conviction permeates everything on the plate.
Zero Restaurant + Bar
MODERN AMERICAN
Very expensive
Downtown. 0 George St. (843) 817-7900
zerogeorge.com
Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)
On the grounds of the elegant Zero George Street Boutique Hotel, Zero Restaurant + Bar’s romantic dining room is set in a former carriage house built in 1804. Here, Chef Vinson Petrillo whips up innovative tasting menus with the option of four or seven courses, plus optional wine pairings. Selections vary with the seasons, but anticipate such treats as lightly grilled mackerel served with foie gras and local citrus, or venison prepared with vadouvan curry and taleggio cheese. Hit up happy hour for a craft cocktail; whether wielding a lead pipe or the candlestick, the bourbon-based Colonel Mustard is sure to pack a punch.
ITALIAN
Rūta Smith file photo
Thanks, Ben!
It’s not often we receive mailed letters these days, much less one written on a grandfather’s old typewriter and delivered by hand in an envelope with a cool embossed seal.
So thanks, Ben, for your thoughtfulness. And while we’re at it, thanks to the City Paper’s thousands of loyal readers, advertisers and donors who allow us to keep doing what we love doing.
Andy Brack, editor and publisher
ESSAY
A WALK DOWN THE RED CARPET
Recounting the biggest night of my life
By Nikko Cagalanan
Lyric Opera in Chicago, aisle 2, row O, seat 9.
It’s like being back in Talisay walking to a dark movie theater called Pag-asa (Hope) all over again: A church by Sunday morning and a movie theater that plays classic Filipino movies the rest of the week where my dad used to take me, and where Mansueta and the rest of the family goes for Sunday church and where I usually fall asleep or do something dumb.
But this time I didn’t do any of that!
I am so excited walking towards the red carpet at the James Beard Awards. I have never seen so many cameras, reporters or celebrity chefs. I’m in line to get my badge next to my fiancée, when I see a familiar face who immediately crosses out my name on the guest list, hands me a badge and says: “Congratulations and good luck, Nikko.”
Then, I get nervous. All of this is now so surreal. I stand behind Marcus Samuelsson where I’m next in line to walk the red carpet. Marcus is amazing: the smile, the fit, the confidence. I’ve loved that guy since his days on Top Chef.
I step on the red carpet and all of a sudden all I hear is: “Here, look here, look over here!” One person interviews me for a few minutes, and I walk a few feet further, and then another person asks me a few more questions. I don’t remember any of the questions at all, or I probably just black out. Who knows?
In the heart of the theater, I have a flashback to my senior year in nursing school playing my last game of basketball, a championship game with my nursing team against the college of business. Since my freshman year, I had helped bring this nursing team to the championship three years in a row — but also failed to bring the trophy every year.
The fourth year, my last year, I’m hoping it’s a different outcome before I graduate. Going into the campus gymnasium with a full crowd, half of it is nursing students cheering their hearts out and half of the gymnasium is the rest of the college students who for some reason always hate the nursing team. Everyone just wanted to beat us.
Cue music, “Lose Yourself” by Eminem.
“Look, if you had one shot or one opportunity to seize everything you ever wanted — One moment — would you capture it or just let it slip?”
2011, my senior year, we went undefeated and brought home the gold. It took me four years to win the sweetest trophy of my college career.
Walking down aisle 2 with my whole crew from Kultura and looking for our assigned seats … cue music:
“His palms are sweaty, knees weak, arms are heavy. There’s vomit on his sweater already, mom’s spaghetti; He’s nervous, but on the surface he looks calm and ready.”
We sit down and two minutes later, the awards ceremony starts. My category, Emerging Chef,
Provided
is the first one to be announced. I see my name on the big screen — cool! — and they announce another winner.
For a moment, I’m stunned, and then I look around the room and realize that I’m in a room I never thought I’d be in. I’ve already won. Just like in nursing school, I’ll be back.
The rest of the night’s celebrations are a blur — like the last three months since I was nominated — in the best possible way. My team and I will never get over it. What a night.
Your Destination For Dining
CHARLESTON’S LUXURY HOTEL
Embark on a culinary journey, where Southern-inspired dishes meet international flavors in perfect harmony. Enjoy the fresh local ingredients at Gabrielle or treat yourself to the delicate delights of authentic French pastries at La Pâtisserie. Sip on meticulously crafted cocktails at Fiat Lux or unwind with a bespoke tea experience at Camellias. Join us and discover why Hotel Bennett is celebrated as Charleston’s haven for exquisite dining.
Culinary and hospitality programs are eligible for no-cost tuition. Visit bit.ly/SCWINSatTTC for more info.
Take Charge of Your Future
Start your culinary or hospitality education right here in the Lowcountry. Choose from an array of in-person and online programs designed to meet the needs of the hospitality and culinary industries. Noncredit courses, community interest sessions and specific industry training workshops are also offered.
