Portfolio

Page 1

CHARLOTTE BRITTEN




The Designer

I am a contour fashion graduate from De MontfortUniversity. Throughout my degree i have been able to produce both technical and esthetic work, focusing primarily on lingerie and swimwear. I am keen to progress in the intimate apparel industry and feel my previous work and additional experience has given me a broad knowledge of this industry. Innovation is key in my designs because i always want to create something very different to anything seen before.


Gossard : designing for an upcoming luxury label within the brand. .

Inspired by greay herons with a focus on texture




Final Major Project : Coral Reef inspired couture


The uneven textures and surfaces of the coral reefs influenced my decision to heavily embroider and bead my garments.


SIREN the siren may be said to be the lady of the sea naiad are her kin eyes that entrance all who see her a temptress to all eyes that magnetize



Line Up: Front


Line Up: Back


Technical


Work


METHOD OF CONSTRUCTION

PATTERN PIECES PRODUCT NUMBER SEASON

SIREN2

OUTFIT

TWO

DIVISION

COUTURE LINGERIE

RETAIL PRICE

COLLECTION

SIREN

BRAND

_____

BRAND DESCRIPTION

34B

AUTUMN/WINTER 17/18

RETAIL PRICE

MERAKI

PRODUCT NUMBER

SIZE

HALTERNECK QUARTER CUP BRA

FABRIC

SEASON

DESCRIPTION

LACE, SILK SATIN, FOAM, POWERMESH, DENIER

SIREN2

SIZE

34B

OUTFIT

TWO

DIVISION

COUTURE LINGERIE

COLLECTION

SIREN

AUTUMN/WINTER 17/18 _____ MERAKI

HALTERNECK QUARTER CUP BRA

FABRIC

SEAM ALLOWANCE 3MM

e

ht

of

Gra in

ee dg La c

Str aig

Straight of Grain

5MM

LOCK STITCH

5MM

ATTACH THE POWERMESH WING TO THE CRADLE

LOCK STITCH

N/A

OVERLOCKER

OVERLOCK THIS

1MM

LOCK STITCH

TAC THE SEAM BEHIND THE SATIN

LOCK STITCH

INSERT THE CUP TO THE CRADLE

5MM

Straight of Grain

BAG OUT THE CENTER FRONT OF THE CRADLE IN DENIER AND SATIN TAC DOWN THE REST OF THE SATIN CRADLE TO THE DENIER

LOCK STITCH

1MM

Straight of Grain

LACE AND SATIN QUARTER CUP BRA WING 5 OF 5 34B CUT 2 X POWERMESH CHARLOTTE BRITTEN

Straight of Grain LACE AND SATIN QUARTER CUP BRA QUATER CUP 3 OF 5 34B CUT 2 X SATIN CHARLOTTE BRITTEN

EXTRA COMMENTS

SEW THE QUATER CUP TO THE SEW FROM THE UNDERARM TO THE CENTER FRONT DARTED CUP

LOCK STITCH

5MM

LACE AND SATIN QUARTER CUP BRA QUATER CUP 2 OF 5 34B CUT 2 X FOAM CHARLOTTE BRITTEN

BAG THE SATIN QUARTER CUP PIECE OUT OVER THE FOAM

LOCK STITCH

5MM LACE AND SATIN QUARTER CUP BRA CRADLE 1 OF 5 34B CUT 1 X SATIN (ON FOLD) CUT 1 X DENIER (ON FOLD) CHARLOTTE BRITTEN

METHOD

LOCK STITCH

TAC THE SATIN DOWN ON THE FOAM SEW THE DART ON THE LACE LOCK STITCH / OVERLOCKER CUPS AND OVERLOCK

1MM

LACE AND SATIN QUARTER CUP BRA DARTED CUP 4 OF 5 34B CUT 1 PAIR X LACE CUT 1 PAIR X DENIER CHARLOTTE BRITTEN

LACE, SILK SATIN, FOAM, POWERMESH, DENIER

MACHINE TYPE

SEW FROM THE UNDERARM TO THE CENTER FRONT

NOT TO SCALE

METHOD OF CONSTRUCTION PRODUCT NUMBER SEASON RETAIL PRICE BRAND DESCRIPTION

SIREN2

34B

OUTFIT

TWO

DIVISION

COUTURE LINGERIE

RETAIL PRICE

COLLECTION

SIREN

BRAND

AUTUMN/WINTER 17/18 _____ MERAKI

HALTERNECK QUARTER CUP BRA

FABRIC

PRODUCT NUMBER SEASON

LACE, SILK SATIN, FOAM, POWERMESH, DENIER

MACHINE TYPE

METHOD

3MM

LOCK STITCH

ELASTICATE THE UNDERARM AND UNDERBAND

N/A

LOCK STITCH WITH BINDING FOOT

BIND OVER THE ELASTIC AND CONTINUE FROM THE UNDERARM FOR 20CM

5MM

LOCK STITCH

ATTACH SWAN HOOKS TO THE HALTERNECK TOP

N/A

LOCK STITCH

USE BINDING TO CREATE A HOOK HOLDING A RING

5MM

LOCK STITCH

SEW THIS HOOK JUST BESIDE THE CUP (UNDERARM)

5MM

LOCK STITCH

CREATE A STRAP AND ATTACH TO THE RING AND WING OF THE GARMENT

N/A

TWIN NEEDLE WIRE CASING MACHINE

ATTACH THE WIRE CASING

SEAM ALLOWANCE

LACE PLACEMENT

SIZE

N/A

HAND

INSERT WIRES

5MM

LOCK STITCH

ATTACH HOOK AND EYES

N/A

HAND

EMBROIDER

DESCRIPTION

SIREN2

SIZE

34B

OUTFIT

TWO

DIVISION

COUTURE LINGERIE

COLLECTION

SIREN

AUTUMN/WINTER 17/18 _____ MERAKI

HALTERNECK QUARTER CUP BRA

FABRIC

LACE, SILK SATIN, FOAM, POWERMESH, DENIER

EXTRA COMMENTS

ENSURE THAT THE ELASTIC IS BEING CAUGHT INTO THE BINDING

NOT TO SCALE


FABRICS AND COMPONENTS PRODUCT NUMBER SEASON RETAIL PRICE BRAND DESCRIPTION

SIREN2

SIZE

AUTUMN/WINTER 17/18

OUTFIT

TWO

DIVISION

COUTURE LINGERIE

COLLECTION

SIREN

_____ MERAKI

34B

HALTERNECK QUARTER CUP BRA

FABRIC

STITCH DETAIL PRODUCT NUMBER SEASON

SIREN2

34B

OUTFIT

TWO

DIVISION

COUTURE LINGERIE

COLLECTION

SIREN

AUTUMN/WINTER 17/18

RETAIL PRICE

_____

BRAND

LACE, SILK SATIN, FOAM, POWERMESH, DENIER

SIZE

MERAKI

DESCRIPTION

HALTERNECK QUARTER CUP BRA

FABRIC

COMPONENT: 11MM OVAL BEADS COLOUR: PURPLE/LIGHT PINK PRICE: £2.49 FOR 20 SUPPLIER: SARAJANEBROWN, EBAY USED ON: THE EBROIDERED SHOULDERS ADDITIONAL NOTES: NEED TO BE SEWN TIGHTLY, OTHERWISE THEY WILL LOOSEN OVER TIME.

COMPONENT: ELASTIC COLOUR: PRICE: -------------------------------SUPPLIER: USED ON: THE UNDERARM AND THE UNDERBAND. ADDITIONAL NOTES: -

MACHINE

COMPONENT: PEARL BEADS COLOUR: PURPLE PRICE: £0.99 FOR 100 SUPPLIER: JEWEL-MANIA, EBAY USED ON: THE EBROIDERED SHOULDERS ADDITIONAL NOTES: OCCASIONALLY SOME ARE ATTACHED TOGETHER.

LOCK STITCH

STITCH LENGTH

1MM

STITCH WIDTH

N/A

ALL BINDING IS DONE ON A LOCKSTITCH MACHINE WITH A BINDING FOOT

NOTES HAND STITCH

STITCH LENGTH

N/A

STITCH WIDTH

N/A

ELASTIC WAS ALLPIED WITH ONLY A LOCKSTITCH TOO

DIAGRAM

NOTES

EACH KNOT AND BEAD IS INDIVIDUALLY STITCHED WITH NUDE THREAD LACE IS TACKED IN PLACE IN 5 AREAS ON THE CUP

MACHINE

COMPONENT: HOOK & EYES COLOUR: PURPLE PRICE: -------------------------SUPPLIER: DILJIT, BOUGHT FROM THE MEZZANINE USED ON: THE WINGS. ADDITIONAL NOTES: DYED WITH COLOURS ---------------------------------------

FABRIC: RINGS AND SLIDERS COLOUR: SILVER PRICE: -------------------------------SUPPLIER: DILJIT, BOUGHT FROM THE MEZZANINE USED ON: THE STRAPS ADDITIONAL NOTES: -

TWIN NEEDLE

STITCH LENGTH

3MM

STITCH WIDTH

N/A

DIAGRAM

NOTES

WIRE CASING WAS APPLIED TO THE SEAM OF THE CUP WITH A TEWIN NEEDLE STABILISER IS APPLIED TO THE GARMENT BEFORE BINDING

FIT EVALUATION PRODUCT NUMBER SEASON RETAIL PRICE BRAND DESCRIPTION

SIREN2

34B

OUTFIT

TWO

DIVISION

COUTURE LINGERIE

RETAIL PRICE

COLLECTION

SIREN

BRAND

AUTUMN/WINTER 17/18 _____ MERAKI

FIT EVALUATION

SIZE

HALTERNECK QUARTER CUP BRA

FABRIC

LACE, SILK SATIN, FOAM, POWERMESH, DENIER

The aspect of the bra that I have struggled with the most within the pattern cutting and construction of this bra is the quarter cup. Although the pattern is very simple, the foam quarter cup has in most toiles been baggy against the breast and needed reducing multiple times. In my final toile this was much improved, however by shaving 5mm from the side of the overbust pattern this cup fits perfectly. The darted cup is very well fitted, with a flower over the nipple, strategically placed by lace. The lace has denier behind it to ensure that the lace motif doesn’t stretch, however after making this bra, I realized that the lace was slipping against the denier. To fix this I have hand tacked the lace to the denier in critical areas such as at the bust point, the height of the apex and alongside the scallop where the denier ends. The center front has been compromised by the lace placement. In my original designs, the bra was intended to have an extended center front. However in order to position the lace over the nipple, the center front cup has an excess of 1.2cm and perfectly fits the cradle. Although this wasn’t how the bra was meant to look, I am happy with the outcome, and the cup seems to fit the models breasts a lot better. Elastication was difficult because of using a rigid fabric, so to the eye the wing of the bra has a very ruched look, however when on the body, the garment looks well fitted and perfectly made. The binding has been sewn well throughout the garment and sits smoothly against the skin on the underarm.

PRODUCT NUMBER SEASON

DESCRIPTION

SIREN2

SIZE

34B

OUTFIT

TWO

DIVISION

COUTURE LINGERIE

COLLECTION

SIREN

AUTUMN/WINTER 17/18 _____ MERAKI

HALTERNECK QUARTER CUP BRA

FABRIC

MACHINE

OVERLOCKER

STITCH LENGTH

3MM

STITCH WIDTH

0.5MM

DIAGRAM

DIAGRAM

MACHINE

COMPONENT: TEARDROP BEADS COLOUR: PURPLE PRICE: £0.99 FOR 25 SUPPLIER: LENKA.REPUBLIKA, EBAY USED ON: THE EBROIDERED SHOULDERS ADDITIONAL NOTES: -

LACE, SILK SATIN, FOAM, POWERMESH, DENIER

LACE, SILK SATIN, FOAM, POWERMESH, DENIER

The wing of the bra fits very well. The side seam has been adjusted in many of my toiles, however i think that the changed depth here is much suited to the shape of the bra. The hook and eye fit very well at the back and the wing in general is not strained too much. I have reviewed this bra both on the mannequin and on my model, Beth, because i think that its important to consider the difference in fit againsty boththe human body and the mannequin that reflects sample size. The garment was of a very similar fit on the mannequin. However, one difference that i have seen is that the cups do not sit quite as well. The darts seem to make the cup slightly raised from the body, however because this is resolved when on the body, I wouldnt consider this too much of a problem. If i were to make this bra again, I would reconsider fabric choices. Although the denier works well behind the cup, I would probably look for a denier that is slightly lighter in weight. As well as this, i would have tried to get hold of a stretch satin instead of a rigid. Although this fabric has worked well for me, ithas been very difficult to work with, especially when considering elastic under binding, which has resulted in the wing of my bra having less hanger appeal.

NOTES

SIDE SEAMS ARE OVERLOCKED BEFORE BEING STABILISED


Modaris



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