CHARLOTTE BRITTEN
The Designer
I am a contour fashion graduate from De MontfortUniversity. Throughout my degree i have been able to produce both technical and esthetic work, focusing primarily on lingerie and swimwear. I am keen to progress in the intimate apparel industry and feel my previous work and additional experience has given me a broad knowledge of this industry. Innovation is key in my designs because i always want to create something very different to anything seen before.
Gossard : designing for an upcoming luxury label within the brand. .
Inspired by greay herons with a focus on texture
Final Major Project : Coral Reef inspired couture
The uneven textures and surfaces of the coral reefs influenced my decision to heavily embroider and bead my garments.
SIREN the siren may be said to be the lady of the sea naiad are her kin eyes that entrance all who see her a temptress to all eyes that magnetize
Line Up: Front
Line Up: Back
Technical
Work
METHOD OF CONSTRUCTION
PATTERN PIECES PRODUCT NUMBER SEASON
SIREN2
OUTFIT
TWO
DIVISION
COUTURE LINGERIE
RETAIL PRICE
COLLECTION
SIREN
BRAND
_____
BRAND DESCRIPTION
34B
AUTUMN/WINTER 17/18
RETAIL PRICE
MERAKI
PRODUCT NUMBER
SIZE
HALTERNECK QUARTER CUP BRA
FABRIC
SEASON
DESCRIPTION
LACE, SILK SATIN, FOAM, POWERMESH, DENIER
SIREN2
SIZE
34B
OUTFIT
TWO
DIVISION
COUTURE LINGERIE
COLLECTION
SIREN
AUTUMN/WINTER 17/18 _____ MERAKI
HALTERNECK QUARTER CUP BRA
FABRIC
SEAM ALLOWANCE 3MM
e
ht
of
Gra in
ee dg La c
Str aig
Straight of Grain
5MM
LOCK STITCH
5MM
ATTACH THE POWERMESH WING TO THE CRADLE
LOCK STITCH
N/A
OVERLOCKER
OVERLOCK THIS
1MM
LOCK STITCH
TAC THE SEAM BEHIND THE SATIN
LOCK STITCH
INSERT THE CUP TO THE CRADLE
5MM
Straight of Grain
BAG OUT THE CENTER FRONT OF THE CRADLE IN DENIER AND SATIN TAC DOWN THE REST OF THE SATIN CRADLE TO THE DENIER
LOCK STITCH
1MM
Straight of Grain
LACE AND SATIN QUARTER CUP BRA WING 5 OF 5 34B CUT 2 X POWERMESH CHARLOTTE BRITTEN
Straight of Grain LACE AND SATIN QUARTER CUP BRA QUATER CUP 3 OF 5 34B CUT 2 X SATIN CHARLOTTE BRITTEN
EXTRA COMMENTS
SEW THE QUATER CUP TO THE SEW FROM THE UNDERARM TO THE CENTER FRONT DARTED CUP
LOCK STITCH
5MM
LACE AND SATIN QUARTER CUP BRA QUATER CUP 2 OF 5 34B CUT 2 X FOAM CHARLOTTE BRITTEN
BAG THE SATIN QUARTER CUP PIECE OUT OVER THE FOAM
LOCK STITCH
5MM LACE AND SATIN QUARTER CUP BRA CRADLE 1 OF 5 34B CUT 1 X SATIN (ON FOLD) CUT 1 X DENIER (ON FOLD) CHARLOTTE BRITTEN
METHOD
LOCK STITCH
TAC THE SATIN DOWN ON THE FOAM SEW THE DART ON THE LACE LOCK STITCH / OVERLOCKER CUPS AND OVERLOCK
1MM
LACE AND SATIN QUARTER CUP BRA DARTED CUP 4 OF 5 34B CUT 1 PAIR X LACE CUT 1 PAIR X DENIER CHARLOTTE BRITTEN
LACE, SILK SATIN, FOAM, POWERMESH, DENIER
MACHINE TYPE
SEW FROM THE UNDERARM TO THE CENTER FRONT
NOT TO SCALE
METHOD OF CONSTRUCTION PRODUCT NUMBER SEASON RETAIL PRICE BRAND DESCRIPTION
SIREN2
34B
OUTFIT
TWO
DIVISION
COUTURE LINGERIE
RETAIL PRICE
COLLECTION
SIREN
BRAND
AUTUMN/WINTER 17/18 _____ MERAKI
HALTERNECK QUARTER CUP BRA
FABRIC
PRODUCT NUMBER SEASON
LACE, SILK SATIN, FOAM, POWERMESH, DENIER
MACHINE TYPE
METHOD
3MM
LOCK STITCH
ELASTICATE THE UNDERARM AND UNDERBAND
N/A
LOCK STITCH WITH BINDING FOOT
BIND OVER THE ELASTIC AND CONTINUE FROM THE UNDERARM FOR 20CM
5MM
LOCK STITCH
ATTACH SWAN HOOKS TO THE HALTERNECK TOP
N/A
LOCK STITCH
USE BINDING TO CREATE A HOOK HOLDING A RING
5MM
LOCK STITCH
SEW THIS HOOK JUST BESIDE THE CUP (UNDERARM)
5MM
LOCK STITCH
CREATE A STRAP AND ATTACH TO THE RING AND WING OF THE GARMENT
N/A
TWIN NEEDLE WIRE CASING MACHINE
ATTACH THE WIRE CASING
SEAM ALLOWANCE
LACE PLACEMENT
SIZE
N/A
HAND
INSERT WIRES
5MM
LOCK STITCH
ATTACH HOOK AND EYES
N/A
HAND
EMBROIDER
DESCRIPTION
SIREN2
SIZE
34B
OUTFIT
TWO
DIVISION
COUTURE LINGERIE
COLLECTION
SIREN
AUTUMN/WINTER 17/18 _____ MERAKI
HALTERNECK QUARTER CUP BRA
FABRIC
LACE, SILK SATIN, FOAM, POWERMESH, DENIER
EXTRA COMMENTS
ENSURE THAT THE ELASTIC IS BEING CAUGHT INTO THE BINDING
NOT TO SCALE
FABRICS AND COMPONENTS PRODUCT NUMBER SEASON RETAIL PRICE BRAND DESCRIPTION
SIREN2
SIZE
AUTUMN/WINTER 17/18
OUTFIT
TWO
DIVISION
COUTURE LINGERIE
COLLECTION
SIREN
_____ MERAKI
34B
HALTERNECK QUARTER CUP BRA
FABRIC
STITCH DETAIL PRODUCT NUMBER SEASON
SIREN2
34B
OUTFIT
TWO
DIVISION
COUTURE LINGERIE
COLLECTION
SIREN
AUTUMN/WINTER 17/18
RETAIL PRICE
_____
BRAND
LACE, SILK SATIN, FOAM, POWERMESH, DENIER
SIZE
MERAKI
DESCRIPTION
HALTERNECK QUARTER CUP BRA
FABRIC
COMPONENT: 11MM OVAL BEADS COLOUR: PURPLE/LIGHT PINK PRICE: £2.49 FOR 20 SUPPLIER: SARAJANEBROWN, EBAY USED ON: THE EBROIDERED SHOULDERS ADDITIONAL NOTES: NEED TO BE SEWN TIGHTLY, OTHERWISE THEY WILL LOOSEN OVER TIME.
COMPONENT: ELASTIC COLOUR: PRICE: -------------------------------SUPPLIER: USED ON: THE UNDERARM AND THE UNDERBAND. ADDITIONAL NOTES: -
MACHINE
COMPONENT: PEARL BEADS COLOUR: PURPLE PRICE: £0.99 FOR 100 SUPPLIER: JEWEL-MANIA, EBAY USED ON: THE EBROIDERED SHOULDERS ADDITIONAL NOTES: OCCASIONALLY SOME ARE ATTACHED TOGETHER.
LOCK STITCH
STITCH LENGTH
1MM
STITCH WIDTH
N/A
ALL BINDING IS DONE ON A LOCKSTITCH MACHINE WITH A BINDING FOOT
NOTES HAND STITCH
STITCH LENGTH
N/A
STITCH WIDTH
N/A
ELASTIC WAS ALLPIED WITH ONLY A LOCKSTITCH TOO
DIAGRAM
NOTES
EACH KNOT AND BEAD IS INDIVIDUALLY STITCHED WITH NUDE THREAD LACE IS TACKED IN PLACE IN 5 AREAS ON THE CUP
MACHINE
COMPONENT: HOOK & EYES COLOUR: PURPLE PRICE: -------------------------SUPPLIER: DILJIT, BOUGHT FROM THE MEZZANINE USED ON: THE WINGS. ADDITIONAL NOTES: DYED WITH COLOURS ---------------------------------------
FABRIC: RINGS AND SLIDERS COLOUR: SILVER PRICE: -------------------------------SUPPLIER: DILJIT, BOUGHT FROM THE MEZZANINE USED ON: THE STRAPS ADDITIONAL NOTES: -
TWIN NEEDLE
STITCH LENGTH
3MM
STITCH WIDTH
N/A
DIAGRAM
NOTES
WIRE CASING WAS APPLIED TO THE SEAM OF THE CUP WITH A TEWIN NEEDLE STABILISER IS APPLIED TO THE GARMENT BEFORE BINDING
FIT EVALUATION PRODUCT NUMBER SEASON RETAIL PRICE BRAND DESCRIPTION
SIREN2
34B
OUTFIT
TWO
DIVISION
COUTURE LINGERIE
RETAIL PRICE
COLLECTION
SIREN
BRAND
AUTUMN/WINTER 17/18 _____ MERAKI
FIT EVALUATION
SIZE
HALTERNECK QUARTER CUP BRA
FABRIC
LACE, SILK SATIN, FOAM, POWERMESH, DENIER
The aspect of the bra that I have struggled with the most within the pattern cutting and construction of this bra is the quarter cup. Although the pattern is very simple, the foam quarter cup has in most toiles been baggy against the breast and needed reducing multiple times. In my final toile this was much improved, however by shaving 5mm from the side of the overbust pattern this cup fits perfectly. The darted cup is very well fitted, with a flower over the nipple, strategically placed by lace. The lace has denier behind it to ensure that the lace motif doesn’t stretch, however after making this bra, I realized that the lace was slipping against the denier. To fix this I have hand tacked the lace to the denier in critical areas such as at the bust point, the height of the apex and alongside the scallop where the denier ends. The center front has been compromised by the lace placement. In my original designs, the bra was intended to have an extended center front. However in order to position the lace over the nipple, the center front cup has an excess of 1.2cm and perfectly fits the cradle. Although this wasn’t how the bra was meant to look, I am happy with the outcome, and the cup seems to fit the models breasts a lot better. Elastication was difficult because of using a rigid fabric, so to the eye the wing of the bra has a very ruched look, however when on the body, the garment looks well fitted and perfectly made. The binding has been sewn well throughout the garment and sits smoothly against the skin on the underarm.
PRODUCT NUMBER SEASON
DESCRIPTION
SIREN2
SIZE
34B
OUTFIT
TWO
DIVISION
COUTURE LINGERIE
COLLECTION
SIREN
AUTUMN/WINTER 17/18 _____ MERAKI
HALTERNECK QUARTER CUP BRA
FABRIC
MACHINE
OVERLOCKER
STITCH LENGTH
3MM
STITCH WIDTH
0.5MM
DIAGRAM
DIAGRAM
MACHINE
COMPONENT: TEARDROP BEADS COLOUR: PURPLE PRICE: £0.99 FOR 25 SUPPLIER: LENKA.REPUBLIKA, EBAY USED ON: THE EBROIDERED SHOULDERS ADDITIONAL NOTES: -
LACE, SILK SATIN, FOAM, POWERMESH, DENIER
LACE, SILK SATIN, FOAM, POWERMESH, DENIER
The wing of the bra fits very well. The side seam has been adjusted in many of my toiles, however i think that the changed depth here is much suited to the shape of the bra. The hook and eye fit very well at the back and the wing in general is not strained too much. I have reviewed this bra both on the mannequin and on my model, Beth, because i think that its important to consider the difference in fit againsty boththe human body and the mannequin that reflects sample size. The garment was of a very similar fit on the mannequin. However, one difference that i have seen is that the cups do not sit quite as well. The darts seem to make the cup slightly raised from the body, however because this is resolved when on the body, I wouldnt consider this too much of a problem. If i were to make this bra again, I would reconsider fabric choices. Although the denier works well behind the cup, I would probably look for a denier that is slightly lighter in weight. As well as this, i would have tried to get hold of a stretch satin instead of a rigid. Although this fabric has worked well for me, ithas been very difficult to work with, especially when considering elastic under binding, which has resulted in the wing of my bra having less hanger appeal.
NOTES
SIDE SEAMS ARE OVERLOCKED BEFORE BEING STABILISED
Modaris