MARKET RESEARCH 1
CHARLOTTE BRITTEN MERAKI: FALL/WINTER 2017-18 P13210162
CONTENTS 2 1 2 3 4-7 8-29 30-43 44-51 52 53 54 55 56 57-59 60-61
My Project & The aim of the project About Haute Couture The Lingerie Market Style Muses Competitors: Haute Couture Competitors: Semi-Haute Couture Competitors: High End Designer Competitor Matrix SWOT Analysis Competitor Conclusion Customer Research Questionnaire Overview Questionnaire Respondents Interview Responses
62 63-65 66-67 68 69 70 71 72 73-75 76-79 80-86 87 88 
89-92
Customer Research Conclusion Brand Proposal Customer Profile Market Position Size and Price Range Promotion Packaging and Labeling Trends Colour Trends Style Trends Influential Trend Forecasts Trend Forecast Conclusion Final Market Research Conclusion Bibliography
MY PROJECT & THE AIM OF THE PROJECT 3 For my final project, I will be looking at coral reefs and some of the creatures the inhibit the deep oceans and their reefs. A large part of my sketchbook also included the investigation of the cell formation of some different forms of coral. From this I want to achieve a really bold colour scheme, including at least two bold colours that would make this garment really striking.This has been a trend in former seasons and I feel it is something that could re-appear in the coming seasons. The investigation of textures is also going to be really important, because it has been a very influential part of my research and sketchbook. This can be explored in a number of ways; fabric manipulation, laser cutting, embroidery or interesting forms of pleating. These are all things that would make a very simplistic garment a very special high end or couture garment – so all of these have to be looked at in great detail. Within this research file, I plan to look at a lot of different aspects of the market. Within the design field, I want to focus a lot on influential designers and investigate what makes their designs so unique as well as how their styles could inspire my designs. I also want to consider all the different details and features that make these outfits influential in the industry, and what makes them suitable to be sold at the price that they are going to retail at. Another main focus in my trend research is going to rely heavily on WGSN and the upcoming trends and styles that they focus on. I think this is really important because it will expose me to what styles, colours, prints, fabrics, trimmings and successful catwalks from the season. These are all things that I'm going to have to look at in deep detail, because missing out on a key trend in this industry can make you lose out on a massive fashion. Mintel and keynotes are also going to be useful in helping me analyze the market as a whole as well as focus in on certain companies successes; looking at success rates of certain products and having an insight to the opinions of the lingerie markets customers. Alongside this, I will also be exploring the preferences and needs of the customers within my target market.
ABOUT HAUTE COUTURE 4 Haute couture is a term that originates from the French, where ‘haute’ means high or elegant and ‘couture’ means sewing. However this term has come to represent the designing of high end, custom made women's fashion garments. In order to refer to your profession as a haute couture garment you must belong to the Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture Paris, which is only regulated by the French Department of Industry. In order to apply for this, you must have over 15 employees and present two collections a year. Each of these collections should have a minimum of 35 outfits. To this date there are around 18 members. It is predicted that it normally takes between 100 to 400 hours to make one dress, which will in total cost from between £25,000 and often exceed £100,000. It is estimated that because of the high price, only around 2,000 individuals buy couture dresses, where 60% of these are American (Johnson, D, Infoplease.com). It is considered that even though these garments bring in a reasonable turnover, haute couture brands often make the most money out of selling other products to the high end market such as perfume, cosmetics and their ready-to-wear lines, which give them a much better overall profit because they are cheap to manufacture.
THE LINGERIE MARKET 5 Even though this collection will be sitting in the haute couture sector of the lingerie market, it is important to consider that the lingerie industry is increasing on an average of 21% each year (Keynote.co.uk, 2015); which indicates that the desire for lingerie is growing and possibly that people are willing to spend more on lingerie each year. Because of the excessive embellishment and luxurious fabrics that will be used in this collection, my garments will be sold at the haute couture market level. This is regarded as the smaller section of the fashion market where garments are made specifically to fit the customer who wishes to order and is made completely handmade. Often, they are considered a one off piece that could not be purchased by any other customer. For my garments to be successful in this market, there are a lot of properties of the garments that I will have to consider in the designing and making. For one, the garments will have to be daring in design and beautifully embroidered – this is what will make them stand out as innovative styles that the customer cannot purchase elsewhere. The fabric choices need to be considered really carefully; the women who will be buying these products will have an appreciation for the finer fabrics, silk is a fabric that has to be highly considered in order to be successful at this market level. Components, although they don’t always seem that important, will be a very important aspect to as well as the quality of construction being very important when a garment is to be sold in the high end market. Because of the high price label, the garment construction really has to be impeccable. Other things that need to be considered are how you market the product and brand. Its important with couture brands that the promotion campaigns meet the product type. The labeling is also really important because it should look luxurious, elegant and unlike anything you have ever seen before. However this only really applies if there is a boutique store, which is only common in the bigger couture brands that sell readyto-wear ranges too..
STYLE MUSES 6
GIGI HADID 7 Gigi Hadid is an internationally recognised supermodel. She is beautiful, confident and admired by many. She can be seen on various runways, representing the likes of Valentino, Chanel and Chloe. However, outside of the catwalk, her style is very much irregular. Gigi is not afraid to try something daring, a new style that might not be typically fashionable. She is also not afraid to wear the more revealing outfits which might attract a lot more attention than most would prefer. However she does also have a taste for the finer labels, often seen in couture brands, most of which she has worked for previously. She has done a lot of fashion campaigns, the most recent being her campaign with Kendall Jenner for Chanel in the ‘Chanel Dolls House’. She is often seen with other style icons such as Cara Delevigne and Kendall Jenner, who also have very particular, but alternative tastes when it comes to fashion.
BLAKE LIVELY 8 Blake Lively is a massive inspiration and style muse to this brand. She has a beautiful curvy body and isn't apprehensive to show it off. She can be seen in couture garments on a regular basis and loves an evening gown. Well known for the hit series Gossip Girl, which appealed to the younger generations, she is now an inspiration to women in their late 20’s and early 30’s too. Embroidery is a feature that often occurs on her garments, making a statement at every event she attends. Her style is daring, but with the elements of elegance and sophistication still kept in mind. A figure hugging garment is her go-to style and you will never see her wearing the same dress as anyone else. Her fashion is kept in picture evidence on sites like Vogue, Elle and Marie Claire who will site back to dates as early as 2008 to show how her style has changed.
CHRISSY TEIGEN 9 Chrissy Teigen is an American model who made her debut in 2010 in Sports Illustrated. Now she is represented by IMG Models, who are internationally renowned worldwide, as well as hosting a series of TV shows, making her a fashion role model for women of all ages. Alongside this, she is seen at a variety of ceremonies and premiers wearing couture evening dresses that are often heavily embroidered. Her style is elegant and she always chooses garments that are flattering, but even pregnancy and becoming a mum hasn’t stopped her from choosing an outfit that is a little daring or revealing. She was heavily pregnant when she attended The Oscars, however she looked incredible in her hand embellished Marchesa couture dress, flattering her mum-to-be figure. She is forever radiating elegance and sophistication wherever she goes.
COMPETITORS 10
COUTURE
RALPH & RUSSO 11
RALPH & RUSSO 12 "We create an experience around the dress; we have a very personal relationship with each of our clients. I have always loved the fantasy or fashion and it was important for me to focus on something I loved.� (Ralph & Russo, ralphandrusso.com)
About: Ralph & Russo is a very elaborate couture garment maker specializing in gown, but also creating a lot of . In 2014 they became the first ever brand to show their garments at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week alongside brands such as Chanel and Valentino. They have made a range of garments for couture client from everyday womenswear to baby garments. They boast a range of customers from Angelina Jolie and BeyoncĂŠ, who wore Ralph & Russo couture garments for her performance at the White House in 2013, and later asked for the fashion house to design the outfits for her Mrs. Carter World Tour show. The Australian couple started the business less than 10 years ago with one sewing machine and now have just over 600 clients in their books and additionally work continuously to show a collection at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week each year. This brand is also said to be growing at around 400% each year, with the brand becoming more and more noticeably prestigious. Some of their gowns hold up to 600meters of tulle and some dresses are hand painted to create the perfect colour, instead of dying. Their in house team works with around 100 skilled women who hand craft these garments, at least 30% more than other couture houses such as Chanel.
RALPH & RUSSO 13 Each new client has a mannequin made in her size to ensure that the fit is perfect. In order to ensure rarity, the brand will only design one of their seasons dresses for one client in each country in order to keep the exclusivity of the brand alight. However, the opening of their boutique department in Harrods has led the business to great success and growth, now accounting for 50% of the businesses taking each year. These dresses are still made by the atelier, however they can be purchased without the 6 week waiting time that is normally required by the brand. After purchasing, these dresses can be immediately altered by the team for the client within a week.
Market Level: This brand is at the highest end of the haute couture market. The exclusivity of a brand that will only provide on design per person per country and still exceeds other brands in their quality of construction and embroidery. The impeccable fit of the dress is ensured by extensive body measures being taken and a mannequin completely mirroring your body. These garments are to be treasured from the day you receive it and years on.
RALPH & RUSSO 14 Intended Customer:
Ralph & Russo is for the exceedingly wealthy; for those who have no worry about the cost of a garment, but care greatly about the quality and extravagance of its design. A customer of Ralph & Russo wants their dress to exceed everyone elses expectations, and they want to be the center of attention whenever they wear it.
Price: At any one time there can be around 150 dresses in production. They estimate that each dress will take at least 3 weeks with 30 people helping this one individual dress and embroidered garments that can cost up to ÂŁ32,000 at a time. With the hours that are involved embroidering a single dress, the luxurious fabrics, construction, tailoring to the body and the exclusivity of the Ralph & Russo label in your wardrobe, it is not surprising that the dresses cost is so high.
Promotion: In terms of promotion, they express in an interview with the Telegraph that their success has come mostly from word of mouth and now the fashion shows that they show at Couture Fashion Week (Finnigan, K, The Telegraph, 2015). However they do also have a Facebook and Instagram page that promote their shows and upcoming designs and collections.
RALPH & RUSSO 15 Boutiques: The brand have 2 headquarters, the flagship which is based in Mayfair, London. The other office is located in Paris, where in the same year the brand opened their first boutique in the “superbrand� area of the prestigious London store, Harrods. This lies alongside other prestigious brands such as Valentino and Gucci. Other than this, the only other way to acquire a Ralph & Russo dress would be to go on their website and fill out a contact form, or alternatively book an appointment to visit them by appointment in one of their headquarters.
Collections Every season Ralph & Russo collections have a theme where each outfit will be designed around, yet each outfit still differs drastically from every other garment that they have produced. Where all the embroidery differs throughout each garment in the show, the colour palette often changes very subtly, making the collection much more diverse than a lot of couture catwalk collections might be. They use a very interestingly diverse range of fabrics and design garments of all shapes with every age and style in mind as well as often using fabric manipulation to make their garments more unique.
RALPH & RUSSO 16
AUTUMN/WINTER 2015/2016
“Silhouettes here and there showed awareness of contemporary must-haves, like a black satin jumpsuit, or crepe palazzo pants with a crop top – although admittedly, no skin was on display at the junction between top and bottom. A plunge neckline on a shimmering navy dress went a long way to evoke the sensuality of the runaway royal. Few, if any of the shapes, tilled any ground, and a fair number of them reprised imported couture "hits" from seasons past.” (Colin, R, nowfashion.com, 2015) “The enchanting designs alloy maleficent charm with virtuous beauty. Drama is personified through cascading skirts and armor-like construction. Intricate beadwork marries silk fabrics for delicate and ornate gowns. Feather detailing takes pieces into ethereal territory while capes and voluminous ball gowns give the collection its crowning moments. The British brand is consistent in achieving elegant opulence with their divinely crafted pieces. Their glorious AW 2015/2016 collection is true bridal inspiration.” (Lewars, T, munaluchibridal.com)
I believe this collection is alike many other Ralph & Russo collections, they take very simple, timeless and elegant silhouettes and expand them through exaggeration of the shape, or intricate beading which then makes every garment completley unique. However this collection did have a slightly modern edge, with a lot more body stockings and an increased element of reveal to the outfits. This collection featured a lot of fabric manipulation through processes like pleating that was paired with the subtle use of geometric embroidering, rather than the clustered, intricate patterns that Ralph & Russo normally produce.
RALPH & RUSSO 17
SPRING/SUMMER 2015 “Floral myth incarnated in the pastel loveliness of dresses playing with light and lightness through open cutwork, guipure and crosshatch appliqué. It was an ode to nature, delivered by the hand of Tamara Ralph and her atelier. As the show wore on, shapes became more opulent, as did their adornments. One coat dress was extravagantly embroidered, peppered with hundreds of flowershaped elements connected together in an intricate pattern. The trailing sleeves, so long they rivaled furisode kimono style, opened to reveal the surprise of a creamy white interior. 3D flower buds competed with metallic thread, resin embroidery with geometric pearl embroidery. Degradés of organza's painted in soft-hued shades were sculpted into floral shapes.” (Colin, R, nowfashion.com, 2014) This collection was much more loyal to the femininity that you often find in couture garments. A lot of the shapes and styles were figure-hugging and complimentary of the female body, with a lot of cinched waistlines and flowing silhouettes or exaggerated hips. These were varied throughout the show and were well paired with the detailed embroidery that remained the focus of this collection. The inspiration was clearly floral and a lot of the garments featured 3D embroidery, adding to the interesting texture that a lot of the garments hold visually. Although there were some more daring and revealing garments, the collection as a whole could easily be considered far more modest than in previous years.
RALPH & RUSSO: MOST RECENT COLLECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2016 18
VALENTINO 19
VALENTINO 20 “Established in 1960 by legendary fashion designer Valentino Garavani
and his business partner Giancarlo Giammetti, Valentino S.p.A. recently celebrated an iconic cornerstone – its 50th anniversary – that further consecrates its heritage and success story.” (Valentino.com)
About: Valentino is one of the most famous and admired fashion houses in the world, creating garments with designs comparable to no other fashion brand. The companies founder, Valentino Garavani showed a couture collection in Florence for the first time, and in 1969 opened his first readyto-wear shops in Milan and Rome.
Market Level: Valentino is considered a very high end/couture brand, whose haute couture line is very well respected.
Intended Customer: Valentino garments are for those who have a lot of disposable income and no worry about how much an everyday outfit might cost them; as long as the look and feel fabulous. When they want an evening gown, they want something amazing, but a garment that lets everyone knows that they are wearing couture.
VALENTINO 21
Price: Valentino is a very exclusive brand and this is reflected in the price. Their couture garments are varied in price depending on the garment type, fabric and embroidery/detailing. The price ranges are from around ÂŁ800 for a printed shirt, to ÂŁ6,600 for a tote bag in their ready to wear range. On average, the dresses featured in their catwalk collection average at around ÂŁ4000 each, couture would be a lot more.
Promotion: This brand use the same promotion as the previous two brands, however the couture shows really do promote the brand the most. A vast amount of people keep themselves posted with what fashion houses are bringing out each season and a lot of collections are featured in the likes of Vogue, Elle and vaguely in some other high street fashion magazines. Therefore, the photos from the collection will probably be seen by such a large portion of fashion followers that extra promotion isn't always necessary. However, if your brand is not quite as established, this may not quite be the case.
VALENTINO 22 Boutiques: Today, the brand has 62 boutiques across the globe, as well as being stocked in many prestigious department stores such as Galeries Lafayette and Harrods. Valentino ready to wear garments can also be bought online from their website, Harrods, Net-a-porter and Selfridge.
Collections: Valentino’s style is very much unique and differs from many designers on the catwalk. However, the brand is not one to shy away from the task of embroidery, nor to the design and construction of intricate lingerie pieces. This is what makes Valentino one of the very few couture houses that create some heavily lingerie inspired garments in each collection, making them reasonable competition for my brand. In each collection there always seems to be a very vague style that would be followed throughout the collection. For example, although all of the garments from the Spring/Summer Haute Couture collection of 2016 were all very different, all of the garments were very loose and floaty, often with maxi skirts or full length trousers. Whereas, their Spring/Summer 2015 collection was a lot more structure, with a lot of the garments highlighting the waistline.
VALENTINO 23
AUTUMN/WINTER 2013/2014 “Clad in ornate embroidery and luxe fabrics, the Valentino woman wears patterns reminiscent of the cosmos with abstract motifs reminding us of the sun, moon and stars. The romanticism of neo-Baroque lace or jacquards gives way to more earthy pieces such as menswear-inspired wool in camel, dark grey or black tones. These simple notes make the fur-trims and crystal beaded swirl patterns all that much more dreamy for the autumn couture season.” (fashiongonerogue.com, 2013) “In tweed and cashmere (a new dimension from the duo this season), with flocking and embroidery, pearl-encrusted high necks, skirts adorned in feathers, dresses decorated in shells and coral branches, it was extravagant with Medieval and Baroque references – the colours and richness of everything, all the while still carved from that Valentino silhouette: caped dresses, cinched waists and beautiful splaying skirts of queenly proportions.” (Vogue, 2013) This collection was very loyal to the Valentino style, dark, mysterious, but with intricate detailing. This collection had its handful of lingerie inspired garments as well as outerwear pieces, but every garment looked very delicate and transparency was dominant in most designs.
VALENTINO 24
AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/2013 “Leather coats had ornate leather cables curled into frogging at the front – in black or winter white or tan - while tapestry stripes of multicolored embroidery had an artisanal, Russian doll appeal on full length coats – and reappeared later cast in glittering sequins.” (Vogue, 2012) “There was a fittingly Catholic severity - Valentino's Roman headquarters is a quick-step from the Vatican - in much of this; it recurred from the vaguely sinister section of cleanly cut leather capes, tunics, trench coats, skirts and dresses (although not the culottes) at the beginning right through to the haunting, mournful-infanta-style square necked scallop hemmed black gown at the end.” (Luke, L, Vogue.com, 2012) This collection again was fittingly sinister-looking for Valentino. Transparency used to reveal was consistent in almost every outfit and the silhouettes were much more figure hugging than you would find in most other Valentino collections. Catsuits and negligee garments appeared regularly as well as floor length gowns which accentuated the waist and breasts of the models.
VALENTINO: MOST RECENT COLLECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2016 25
ELIE SAAB 26
ELIE SAAB 27 About:
Elie Saab started making dresses at just 9, opening his atelier at age 18 in Beirut. In 2000 he was asked to show his collection at the Haute Couture show in Paris and later became a member of Haute Couture. In 2007, he opened his flagship store in Triangle d’or, Paris. In 2005 he invested in a 5 storey building which is where his atelier works to perfect his beautiful garments.
Market Level: Elie Saab is the most popular couture designer to wear to an occasion and always radiate femininity. His dresses are elegant and always show-stopping, but they are for those who can afford to spend limitless money on a dress.
Intended Customer: The typical Elie Saab customer is one who wants to look elegant and feel amazing at all times in her couture hand beaded gown.
Price: The estimated cost of one of these dresses is fairly impossible to guess and not easily accessed unless actually purchasing, however it is said that on average, an Elie Saab dress will cost a client around ÂŁ28,000.
ELIE SAAB 28 Promotion: Elie Saab is promoted in very similar ways to other haute couture houses, they use advertising campaigns in magazines such as Elle and Vogue as well as promoting themselves through their catwalks. Because of the brands prestigious reputation, the pictures from their catwalk shows will be shows on blogs, in magazines and on various websites all over the world and this is probably their most successful form of promotion.
Boutiques: Where Elie Saab only sells his ready to wear collections in personal boutiques in Mexico, Hong Kong France and Lebanon, his haute couture can only be ordered from his atelier in Paris or in Lebanon in the middle-east. Because of the exclusivity of the intricately made garments, Elie Saab ready to wear can only be purchased from 10 different e-retailers such as Net-a-porter and Saks.
Collections: Each collection is overwhelmingly beautiful, with the most detailed embroidery you could imagine in every single outfit, making his garments really one of a kind. Each dress is very feminine and floor sweeping dresses are a style that never fails to be within his collections. Sheers and tulles are also something that have become very popular throughout his collections, adding that slightly provocative edge to a garment that is very feminine.
ELIE SAAB 29
SPRING/SUMMER 2015 “He produced a number of beautifully beaded long gowns in a myriad of blooming flora motifs such as tulips, jacarandas and mimosa and then reworked them again in a shorter offshoot with a more youthful take on the same premise.” (Michault, J, Nowfashion.com, 2015) “Flower garlands laced the golden locks of the models’ hair, below their silhouettes cast in a Midas touch of gold leaf and intricate embroidery. There were empire lines and full skirts, splaying skirts and flowing sleeves, gowns of every classic Elie incarnation.” (Vogue.com, 2015) As always, femininity was key in this Elie Saab collection. To work with the floral inspiration, very delicate fabrics were used. Chiffons and organzas were vital to this collection alongside delicate laces and the occasional use of faux fur. The silhouettes were very traditional to the Elie Saab look, mostly showing ball gowns that accentuated the waist and either flowed delicately down her body, or exaggerated the hips. This collection showed a lot of plunged necklines and cleavage reveal where it isn't always seen in Elie Saab collections.
ELIE SAAB 30
SPRING/SUMMER 2014 “The title of the spring/summer 2014 Elie Saab show was “The Promise of Spring.” Then there were the elaborate embellishmentsthree dimensional fabric blooms sprouting out of beaded ensembles. And finally the abstract flower prints Saab incorporated into the bodice of some of his more grandiose gowns rounded out the reference points. But the real promise of this collection was the introduction by Saab of a selection of chicly sober and pleasingly plain designs. The quiet draping or ombré shading of these mousseline ensembles, which the designer scattered throughout his flower filled show, connected with the audience simply through their absences of artifice.”(Staiano, G, nowfashion.com, 2014) “Embellishment came in the form of appliquéd crystals ran over organza and tulle fabrics. The silhouette is suitably feminine, honing on the waist with empire lines and flowing drapery.” (fashiongonerogue.com, 2014) Another floral inspire Elie Saab collection shows lace use, but a lot more embroidery in the form of flowers. Silhouettes are figure hugging and small waistlines can be seen in every garment. There is a lot of revel through chiffons, used more on the legs which is refreshing. Long sleeves on many of the ball gowns appeared often alongside a lot of ombre and sparkling beads.
ELIE SAAB: MOST RECENT COLLECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2016 31
COMPETITORS 32
SEMI-COUTURE
ID SARRIERI 33 ID Sarrieri is one of the most influential lingerie brands in the market. Founded in Paris in the early 2000s the brand creates pieces that look and are constructed to the quality of couture pieces. The brands aim is to stand out in all aspects that they can by providing garments unlike anyone else with a quality standard that cannot be faulted. Another aspect that gives them their luxurious edge is the exquisite fabrics that they use and the hand made details, with garments that often have hand embroidery on them. Their signiture fabric is chantilly lace – being the first lingerie company to experiement with using this fabric, they incorportae it into many of their creations.They are forever creating new, innovative designs and stunning campaigns to market the brand further.
ID SARRIERI 34 “I.D. Sarrieri celebrates strong women and promotes femininity and refined glamour through the sophisticated process of creating fine art lingerie.” (sarrieri.com)
About: ID Sarrieri is an international lingerie brand that was founded in the early 2000s. There is a sharp focus on couture-like lingerie garments that give the image of a powerful and sexy woman. They use beautiful fabrics and pay a close attention to detail to secure quality. . Their signature fabric is Chantilly lace – being the first lingerie company to experiment with using this fabric and they incorporate it into many of their creations. The aspect of ID Sarrieri that makes them so much different to other high end lingerie designers is that their designs are so modern and innovative. However, they also change their styles every season, making them very unpredictable and unlike a lot of the other lingerie brands in their market. Although they have a few staple lingerie items that they sell, such as simple silk balcony bras and G-strings, the majority of their garments are much more for the sophisticated and successful woman who wants to look amazing for one night. Aside from the more classic pieces, lace placement bodies are a big feature for ID Sarrieri, being the middle ground between the classic and the more couture pieces. Other garments will have over-exaggerated shoulder pads and peplum skirts or exquisite beading on extravagantly flared kimonos, high neck bodysuits, negligées and gowns for cover ups.
Market Level: ID Sarrieri is a brand of luxury and innovation and is of great quality. You cannot find anything alike this lingerie, so very often it is very exclusive, making it the in-between of high end designer lingerie and couture.
ID SARRIERI 35 Intended Customer
The ID Sarrieri customer wants to look glamorous and elegant in the bedroom, but in lingerie like nobody has ever seen before. She often aims to look individual and exquisite and appreciates alternative styles of lingerie that may not always be considered practical.
Price: The price of these garments is very high, ranging from around ÂŁ45 for a basic G-string into thousands of pounds for much more detailed and exclusive or couture garments. It is the fine fabrics, the hand craftsmanship, innovative styles and the beautiful attention to detail that makes this lingerie haute couture. Their collections are split up in order to focus specific garments to the correct customer market. These are listed below: - Couture lingerie: hand-made, avant-garde pieces, made from the most exclusive fabrics. The collection includes standout items that truly innovate lingerie wear, such as special bodysuits, luxurious bras, briefs and corsets, which iterate the brand's craftsmanship and flawless know-how. - Luxury lingerie: equally precious in fabric and attention to detail, the luxury line consists of pieces that can be worn day to night, in timeless as well as seasonal trends and colors. - Daily lingerie: delicate items for a daily luxurious lingerie experience, equally comfortable and fashionable. With a focus on timelessness, these are lingerie staples that shouldn't miss from any women's lingerie drawer: in delicate nudes, sophisticated noir, white and the occasional pop of soft hues. - Cocktail: consists of I.D. Sarrieri key pieces embellished with signature Swarovski elements, for a show-stopping appearance. - Homewear: delicate camisoles and robes in the finest silks and Chantilly laces, accompanied by sophisticated loungewear. The homewear collections combine feminine charm, sexiness and comfort.
ID SARRIERI 36 Promotion:
Their promotion is very minimal, with social media that is updated every few days with posts of new and old lingerie from their collections. Their campaigns are very minimal in comparison to other brands and this is an area that the company could probably develop on.
Boutiques: Most ID Sarrieri garments can be purchased from any of their 31 boutiques across Asia, USA, Europe, Middle East and Antilles Francaises. However, their flagship store that is located on the prestigious Rue de Faubourg du SaintHonore in France is where you will find the greatest selection of ID Sarierri garments. They can also be purchased at other destinations such as Printemps Paris, Harrods, Selfridges, Neiman Marcus, Journelle, Nancy Meyer as well as well established online luxury goods retailer Net-a-porter.
Collection: Each collection has statement pieces in a collection, where the design is completely unique, however there are also a lot of more basic, lace garments sold at lower prices, where the style rarely changes from season to season and only the fabrics are changed.
ID SARRIERI 37
AUTUMN/WINTER 2014/2015 “Sarrieri has created an ultra feminine collection; one that focuses on the curves of the body, the romanticism of uncovered skin, the sensuality of the arch of the back, and the crane of the neck. – the lingerie journal” (Reid, C, thelingeriejournal.com, 2013) “The collection is created from the most luxurious fabrics; most of which are created by the French artisans for Haute Couture designers. Each of the pieces have been crafted with hundreds of hours of research and fittings all under the supervision of the Artistic Director. And of course, the pieces are crystalized and adorned with Swarovski elements.” (Delune, M, fortheloveoflingerie.com, 2013) This collection was very interesting as it split its collection into two very different categories. One section of the collection, focused on neoprene, which was then used to accentuate the parts of the body that are most desirable on a woman. The bottom, the breasts, the waistline and the shoulders. All lingerie was very simplistic with simple non-wired bodies and wired longline bras made solidly from one fabric. This challenged the idea that lingerie can also be outerwear. The other sub-section of the collection was very loyal to the traditional ID Sarrieri style, with figure hugging lingerie made from delicate Chantilly laces that date back to the garments made when the company was first founded. These shapes are elegant, mostly wired for extra support and convenience and more technically correct in terms of the bra being wearable. This sub-collection featured smaller garments such as suspender belts, waspies and garters whereas the first sub-collection was created more for the principle of standing out.
ID SARRIERI: MOST RECENT COLLECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2016 38
LA PERLA 39
LA PERLA 40 “The artisanal heritage, the know-how of the female body, the fusion of innovation and tradition, the Italian identity. These solid points are the chromosomes of the La Perla DNA, the most authentic legacy of the founder Ada Masotti. And today they represent the philosophy of this Italian company that is famous worldwide for its collections of underwear and beachwear that have awakened desires and extolled the bodies of thousands of women. The La Perla essence was created by hands possessing a knowledge that is both ancient and always new. Unique and precious. Like a gesture of love.”
About: La Perla is one of the most prestigious designer houses in Italy, producing high quality garments and specializing in lingerie. The company was founded in 1954 by an Italian born corset-maker called Ada Masotti. Through the 60’s Ada focused on lingerie and swimwear as well as clothing. In 1983, she challenged the current lingerie styles, bringing out the first stretch bodysuit that would be worn to be seen. Their style is always very varied and changes every season, but is always considered innovative. From 2013 to 2014 their gross profit increased by just over 3.5%, giving them a total gross profit of 4,467,000 (keynotes.co.uk). The increase in sales could be due to a number of things. Firstly, the couture show this year will expose them to a whole new pool of clientele that may not have heard of them before, as well as boosting their reputation to a much more luxurious brand image that will appeal to some clientele where it didn’t before. They also let their models choose what garments they wore for their photshoot, experimenting with whether this would
LA PERLA 41 make them more comfortable and have an impact on their catwalk shows. Lastly, this increase could have been because of the employment of Cara Delevigne, one of the worlds most popular supermodels at the time. This campaign was released in December, which caused a very widespread appreciation of her great work for La Perla, and highlighted their interesting work on the unusual and unique boned swimwear collection. Both of these things would have given a lot of media attention to La Perla which would have resulted in a lot more sales.
Market Level:
La Perla is one of the most prestigious lingerie brands from around the globe. Their lingerie is exquisite and beautifully made with a very individual couture look and feel. This is some of the most sought after lingerie in the world.
Intended Customer:
The woman who buys and wears La Perla wasn’t the best and most exquisite lingerie she can get her hands on. This is why she wants to wear La Perla, she wants laces that wrap around her body, enhancing her figure. She wants to feel like she couldn’t feel any more glamorous and La Perla garments will help her achieve this.
LA PERLA 42 Price:
Within their brand, they have a lot of varied products for different customers. There is the more simplistic styles which would be considered luxury everyday lingerie. Here a bra would cost between £80-£140 and would normally only be stocked in very standard colours such as white, black and nude. A lot of their garments will fit into the high end designer range, which will range from around £100 to around £800. Onwards from this, there is their smaller couture range, which will include a lot of the garments seen on the catwalk. These range from £800 upwards, depending on the style, fabrics and complication of the outfit. A lot of these garments will average at around £1400, where some will exceed this.
Promotion:
La Perla are very similar to a lot of lingerie brands, depending on their photo campaigns very much for promoting the brand. However, they have been very clever with this by using celebrities to promote the campaigns further. Some of the bigger names that have represented the brand include Naomi Campbell, Liu Wen and Malgosia Bela. However, Cara Delevigne was the model they chose that probably created the most media attention, as she was just entering the high fashion world as the next big supermodel when she represented them. They use their instagram on Facebook to heavily promote celebrities that have been seen wearing their garments, as well as posting ongoing campaign and design pictures. Their following is massive, with 230,000 instagram followers and just under this in Facebook followers. They also occasionally use these forms of social media to promote their video campaigns.
LA PERLA 43 Boutique:
Today, the company has over 150 boutiques all over the globe, as well hosting their first ever presentation at Paris Couture Fashion Week in 2015. Although the company started on a very small scale with just one boutique, their development throughout the years has only increased. As the brand started in Bologna where Ada had lived, the headquarters are still situated here, alongside 2 other offices in Milan, Italy. Alternative offices can be found globally. The company has showrooms in London and Italy, where you can see the most recent collections and make enquiries about couture garments, La Perla has stockists all over the world. Their garments can be found in hundreds of independent luxury boutiques, as well as in huge department stores such as Harrods, Selfridges and Galeries Lafayette. Garments can also be bought from their website, Net-a-porter and The Outnet.
Collections:
Each catwalk collection brings a breath of fresh air to the sometimes predictable lingerie industry. Their great quality and unusual designs is what makes them very different to any other lingerie house. Their collection are always elegant and varied within styles, but on most occasions have an element of outerwear in most outfits.
LA PERLA 44
SPRING/SUMMER 2015 “Boudoir robes with exposed back panels doubled as warm-up jackets. The sport influence wasn’t really such a stretch; the boning of a girdle and the seams of a basketball—are they really so different?.” (vogue.com, 2015) “It blurred the lines between sporty daywear and boudoir underpinnings. There were pieces made from an “impossible lace”, which was derived from an early Calais pattern from the 1900s. These were made from an antique loom belonging to Calais, which La Perla restored to recreate intricate lace techniques that remain light as a feather. Chic. Suspender straps were connected to hose done in red or black lace or in black adorned with feathers. It was soft, sensual, and sexy, while maintaining a fierce edge.” (Reddinger, P, fashionweeklydaily.com, 2015) This will be a collection that will forever be one of the highlights of La Perla. The idea of sportswear and outerwear was definitely considered throughout the design process as you see jodhpur like leggings, trousers and baggy looking shorts and trousers that could very vaguely be considered French knickers. Each garment used different fabrics, leaving the colour palette to bring the whole collection together. Most bras were wired, and corsets all had fabric covering the boning; often in an alternative colour. Stockings were featured in many of the garments to add to the femininity of some lightly more masculine lingerie. The luxuriousness could be seen by the unusual and daring outfits that had been created here.
LA PERLA: MOST RECENT COLLECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2015 45
COMPETITORS 46
HIGH END DESIGNER LINGERIE
MYLA 47
MYLA 48 “For the chic, contemporary woman and the man who loves her. Myla isnt simply a piece of lingerie or a sleepwear set, Myla is an act of intimacy, a statement of togetherness, a sensual reflection of who you are�
About: MYLA is one of the biggest luxury lingerie companies in the intimate apparel market. The company was founded in the year of 1999 and began with a small investment in a boutique in Notting Hill. From this, the company has grown massively and they now have their headquarters in Mayfair as well as many stores across the globe supplying to those who only wish for beautiful, luxurious lingerie and nightwear. They work hard to create garments that are feminine and contemporary as well as being timeless; which in my opinion they do very well. Their main focus is in design and fabric choice. The fabrics that they choose are very prestigious and are always exquisite in either detail or texture. They tend to use a lot of lace in their designs, and although they like to stay fashionable, they are far less daring than the likes of ID Sarierri. The use of lace and satins alongside simplistic but seductive designs gives them a really strong brand image, which results in a really strong customer loyalty.
MYLA 49 Market Level:
Myla is often considered a high end lingerie brand because of their pricing and use of fabric. They are of good quality and simplistic but elegant design and very much fit into this area of the market.
Intended Customer: Their aim is to make a woman feel more beautiful and confident than she ever felt before. They also express that a lot of their clientele is men buying for women.
Price: Myla soft bras average at around £100, where a padded and wired bra is normally around £80-£90 more. The knickers are around £80, where their basques are between £150 up to £395. The variation in prices usually is determined by the type of fabrics used and the complexity of construction. However, Myla recently started featuring a lot of simpler products for their clients. They started producing simple bras such as plain padded plunge bras, retailing for almost £70 less than their designer wired bras. This allows customers who wouldn’t normally fit into their price range buy lingerie with the Myla label on it at a lower price. It also allows their current customers to be able to buy everyday lingerie from them, instead of buying their everyday lingerie from a different brand. The company stocks up to a DD, but but the sizes are known for coming up smaller than standard.
MYLA 50 Promotion:
Myla have very standard forms of promotion. They shoot very striking campaigns which are seen in magazines all over the world; always with a very luxurious edge to them. They have previously made a handful of advertisement videos to promote the lingerie, however they have never been as eye-catching as the photo campaigns. Alike almost every fashion retailer, they also promote through Facebook and Instagram, where they can post photos of their newest releases, upcoming announcements or promotions (e.g sales, valentines lingerie). They also use this to promote the quality of their garments, with close up and focused pictures of the detailing on their garments. Pictures have also been posted of celebrities wearing couture Myla garments, made by the atelier. These promote the likes of Storm Keating and Chiara Ferragni.
Boutique:
Their head boutique store is in Canary Wharf, London, however they also retail their products in many other department stores such as Selfridges, Printemps, Bloomingdales, Harvey Nichols and Journelle, as well as on several luxury e-retailers such as Net-a-porter. Myla also have an atelier that make all of their couture garments. This can be requested by appointment at one of their headquarters. A quote would be given when the appointment has finished and the customers requirements have been assessed.
MYLA 51 Collections:
MYLA’s designs are really classic and can be differentiated from a lot of other designers. The combination of the luxury label, the exquisite fabrics and the classic and clean designs of the garments could hardly make any Myla set unlikable to a woman. A lot of their nightwear remains very basic. They keep a lot of their classic designs between seasons and don’t change the shapes all too much. The nightwear is very simplistic and barely changes between seasons, however this is much more appealing to the older generations, where the lingerie that Myla produces is a lot more youthful. However, within each season, they often include a few nightwear pieces that feature much bolder colours, aimed at the younger customer. The main colours that they use for their lingerie include nude, black and navy, and this very rarely varies with the exception of their nightwear. However, in each season there are always a few pieces that experiment with bold and interesting colour palettes, to create lingerie that is beautiful and classic as well as unique. A lot of the bras are designed in a balconette or plunge style which seems to suit the placement of the lace really well. They also feature a lot of hipster and brazilian knickers, where featuring more thongs would make a lot of the outfits a lot more provocative, but would appeal less to the older customer who may be looking for something a bit more modest.
MYLA 52
AUTUMN/WINTER 2013/2014 This collection consists of lacy garments with frill detailing in flattering and feminine shapes. All the bras in this collection were wired and had a short cradle. Strapping detail was just entering the commercial lingerie world, so this was very popular and added to the seductive look that Myla work towards. The collection included bra, suspender and knicker sets, bodies, basques and nightwear that all varied in price. Bras varied between £115-£150, knickers between £60-90 and basques exceeded £300. Most outfits would consist of more than 2 matching garments, with the exception of hero pieces such as basques and bodystockings.
MYLA: MOST RECENT COLLECTION 53
COMPETITOR MATRIX 54 Price +
Quality +
Ralph & Russo Elie Saab
Ralph & Russo
Elie Saab Valentino
Valentino
Embroidery -
La Perla ID Sarierri
Embroidery +
Extravagant design -
ID Sarierri Myla
Myla Price -
Quality -
La Perla Extravagant design +
SWOT ANALYSIS 55 Here, I will look at the key advantages and disadvantages of each company that I will have to consider while planning my brand launch and collection.
Ralph & Russo Advantages: Large skilled team working for the atelier, consistent brand image. Disadvantages: Only supply couture garments so are less recognised worldwide.
Elie Saab Advantages: Specializes in beading and embroidery, world renowned brand, strong brand image, feminine style. Disadvantages: Their ranges are limited and vary very little in silhouette from season to season.
Valentino Advantages: Strong brand following with couture and ready-to-wear, large atelier, recognised worldwide, stocks different types of garments/accessories with different price points for different target customers. Disadvantages: Some collections are more elaborate than others as they vary so much.
La Perla Advantages: Individual and unique designs, unusual fabrics make garments attract more attention, good brand following. Disadvantages: Some very basic garments in each collection which makes the brand less adventurous as a whole.
ID Sarrieri Advantages: Some very adventurous designs. Disadvantages: A very beautiful but basic lingerie range alongside the adventurous designs make them less of a unique brand.
Myla Advantages: They use beautiful laces consistently throughout each season. Disadvantages: A lot of the styles remain the same throughout seasons and just change the fabrics, their designs aren't very adventurous.
COMPETITIOR CONCLUSION 56 Looking at competitors in different markets has enabled me to have a better understanding of where my brand will place itself. Although there is a few companies that do couture lingerie, they specialise in how they define themselves couture. Some corsetry could be referred to as bespoke, where the garments are hand-crafted and fitted specifically to the one client. However my garments will be much more than this. Looking at couture fashion houses was extremely useful because I learned so much about the process of how they make, such as Ralph & Russo having a mannequin specially made to mirror the body of the client, ensuring perfect fit of the garment. It was interesting to see that the three couture fashion houses I looked at had over 40 people working in their atelier too, showing the scale and intensity of this market in the preparation to start my own brand. And although my garments will all be lingerie, unlike any other official couture house, the embroidery work and extravagance is really something that I would like to enhance in my designs. I conclude that the most direct competition from this research would probably be La Perla or ID Sarrieri. La Perla creates some very extravagant couture garments that are unlike any other lingerie on the market. They use exciting fabrics and innovative techniques to create an aesthetic that is like nothing ever seen before as well as not being afraid to blur the lines between underwear and outerwear. ID Sarrieri is also very adventurous with their designs, but with much more of a lingerie influence. Each garment is carefully crafted with an extravagance that allows each piece to cross into the outerwear market as a statement piece. Yet, aside from these beautiful designs created by both La Perla and ID Sarrieri, they also sell very beautiful, but very basic lingerie lines. Some consist of elegant lace sets, but their brand doesn’t wholly provide couture garments. Therefore, I would like my brand to be like none of the competitors that I looked at, but feature elements from all of them. I want to create a brand that sells garments with the innovation and elegance of couture fashion houses, but only providing lingerie. Yet will not be providing any lingerie that could be considered anything other than high end couture.
CUSTOMER RESEARCH 57
QUESTIONNAIRE: OVERVIEW 58 How much would you be willing to pay for a couture garment? £0-500 £501-1000 £1001-£1500 £1501+
What couture brands do you admire and why? (Some participants skipped this question) 5 4 3 2 1 0
Here I have displayed some of the key results from my questionnaire. I have discovered that although very few people can afford couture, they would be willing to pay thousands for couture lingerie should their financial situation be different. A flattering garment seems to be the one of choice, where uniqueness and elegance are elements that the customer thinks are important to keep in mind. Elie Saab and Valentino were 2 of the most popular couture brands to admire too, supporting them as my choice of competitor. Many mentioned beading or lace as a preference in lingerie and really stressed that fit was very important to them. These are all things that I think will work with my collection and will have to be considered throughout designing. Flattering Glamorous Lace Pretty Feminine Seductive Provocative Unique Daring Beading Embroidery Embellishment Simplicity Elegance
0
5
10
15
20
25
What features/ elements are most important to keep in mind during the design process if you were to purchase couture lingerie?
QUESTIONNAIRE: RESPONDANT 1 59 How old are you? 22
Q2: How would you describe yourself in 3 words? Happy, Ambitious, FABULOUS
Q3: How would you describe your personal style? Basic
Q4: What comes to mind when you think about couture garments? Hand embellishments, craftsmanship, one of a kinds,
Q5: How much would you be willing to pay for a couture garment? ÂŁ1000+
Q6: What kind of embellishment do you prefer on lingerie? Embroidery and details, so that you can see time and care has been taken to ensure the finer finishes are perfect.
Q7: What features/elements are most important to keep in mind during the design process if you were to purchase couture lingerie? Elegance, Embellishment, Embroidery, Beading, Unique, Glamorous, Flattering
Q8: What couture brands do you admire and why? Balmain and Elie Saab, despite their different over all looks, their bead work is stunning and attention to details second to none.
Q9: What lingerie styles do you prefer and why? Lace is important to me when choosing lingerie, and I always look for something a little bit different, whether it is colour, shape or details.
QUESTIONNAIRE: RESPONDANT 2 60 How old are you? 24
Q2: How would you describe yourself in 3 words? Fun, quirky, sassy
Q3: How would you describe your personal style? Quirky and interesting
Q4: What comes to mind when you think about couture garments? Something designed specially for me
Q5: How much would you be willing to pay for a couture garment? £2000
Q6: What kind of embellishment do you prefer on lingerie? Beads, embroidery, lace
Q7: What features/elements are most important to keep in mind during the design process if you were to purchase couture lingerie? Embellishment, Daring, Unique, Provocative, Seductive, Feminine, Pretty, Lace, Glamorous, Flattering
Q8: What couture brands do you admire and why? Ellie Saab – its just so pretty and sassy, the dresses are like nothing I've ever seen before.
Q9: What lingerie styles do you prefer and why? Bras, suspender skirts, bodies
QUESTIONNAIRE: RESPONDANT 3 61 How old are you? 32
Q2: How would you describe yourself in 3 words? Fun loving, Hardworking, Kind
Q3: How would you describe your personal style? A bit of everything…a bit rocky, mixed with feminine and comfortable
Q4: What comes to mind when you think about couture garments? exquisite quality and hand finishing on one of a kind designs.
Q5: How much would you be willing to pay for a couture garment? £1000+
Q6: What kind of embellishment do you prefer on lingerie? beading/ flat crystals
Q7: What features/elements are most important to keep in mind during the design process if you were to purchase couture lingerie? Elegance, Embellishment, Daring, Unique, Seductive, Feminine, Lace, Flattering
Q8: What couture brands do you admire and why? La Perla - Atelier because it is feminine and sophisticated yet really contemporary
Q9: What lingerie styles do you prefer and why? I love bodies particularly lace, so you can where them out in the public and show off your nice underwear to everyone and not just yourself.
INTERVIEWS: INTERVIEWEE 1 62 1.How much would you be willing to spend on couture lingerie? I think if you're willing to pay the money for a garment that was made to fit your body shape and your particular desires, then you would be willing to pay almost any charge that the designer suggests. Where couture dresses probably sell at around £20,000, I guess I would be expecting to pay upwards of £2,000 for couture lingerie. 2.What couture brands do you admire and why? Elie Saab will always be a favorite of mine. The femininity of their garments is not so much my style, but I really appreciate the time that goes into the elaborate embroidery. Bouchra Jarrar are probably more my style; still heavily embroidered, but a little more simplistic. 3.What do you think the benefits of couture garments are? The rarity, of course. Everyone wants what someone else cant have. Maybe also knowing that someone has so carefully crafted the garments also, it adds to the personality of the garment. 4.How extravagant would you like a couture garment to be? In design, not so much. I’m much more in preference of heavy embroidery making the garment unique. 5.What silhouette would you choose for a couture garment? Whether it was lingerie or fashion, I think I would always prefer tight fitted garments, they will show off and exaggerate your best features. And when they fit right, they make you feel amazing.
6.How would you describe your personality in 3 words? Sassy, Sophisticated and Confident. 7.How would you describe your style? Simplistic, but daring, always elegant and occasionally provocative. 8.What makes you feel attractive? N/A 9.Describe your ideal couture garment Something daring and fully embroidered that would make me feel beautiful. 10.What parts of the body do you think should be most exaggerated? I will always believe that the waist is the most important feature on a woman. 11.How important would you consider embroidery in couture garments? Embroidery is key to a couture garment, it is what makes a garment that is really special develop into something that is just extraordinary. 12.What are your opinions on embroidery on lingerie?
Embroidery isn't always necessary on lingerie garments – it can make your
INTERVIEWS: INTERVIEWEE 2 63 1.How much would you be willing to spend on couture lingerie? Anything. To have a garment made to exactly what you could dream of, how can you put a price tag on that? I would want embroidery hand sewn all over as well, so you cant expect any kind of price to be put on that. 2.What couture brands do you admire and why? Dior couture collections are always amazing, very feminine with exaggeration of the hips in a lot of their garments. The shows are always incredible too – they really go all out to make the catwalk a story which I think sells the clothes even more! 3.What do you think the benefits of couture garments are? Having something that someone else cant have, and I guess a lot of the time, looking absolutely fabulous knowing that you're wearing something that has been crafted like a piece of art. 4.How extravagant would you like a couture garment to be? Very, I love embroidery and would want a garment that was heavily embellished. I would want the garment to be one of a kind. 5.What silhouette would you choose for a couture garment? I would want something that really enhanced my figure, and highlighted my breasts and waist. I think these parts of the body are really important to consider when designing because this is the key to creating something really feminine and elegant.
6.How would you describe your personality in 3 words? Independent, Girly, Confident 7.How would you describe your style? Definitely feminine, but really not afraid to try something new or a little unusual. I really love having a garment that I know nobody else has. 8.What makes you feel attractive? A bra that uplifts my breasts and makes them look amazing. 9.Describe your ideal couture garment Something with fine attention to detail and heavy embellishment. Garments that are not so much intended for wearing but as art. 10.What parts of the body do you think should be most exaggerated? Breasts and waist. 11.How important would you consider embroidery in couture garments? Always, its my favourite technique used to make a garment more interesting, that’s what I think makes couture so special a lot of the time. 12.What are your opinions on embroidery on lingerie? Its that extra touch on garments that often make you feel so seductive.
CUSTOMER RESEARCH CONCLUSION 64 Although I predicted that questionnaires and interviews wouldn't be that useful in my small and elite market, the results were surprising. I found that if any of my respondents were to buy a couture garment, 7/23 would be expecting/prepared to spend over £5,000, as well as over 60% also saying that they would be willing to pay £1500 or more. Although the remaining respondents were only willing to pay under £1500, this is a very small market and the prospective customers for this market are very scarce. Many people do not have the finances to justify a garment of this price and level of craftsmanship. Respondents also highlighted that a garment should be flattering, unique and elegant, which I will keep in mind during designing. From my interviews, it was mentioned on several occasions that the waist is very important, which could be worked with in order to ensure that garments are flattering. Uniqueness comes with the nature of couture anyway, but this is something that should be considered throughout as this is one of the key factors that influences the buyers of couture. Embroidery was prominent in the questionnaires, however, when expanded upon in the interviews, it was clear that the interviewees felt that this is what often made a couture garment far more exceptional than any other garment. Elie Saab and Valentino were also some of the top choices for the question: What couture brands do you admire and why?. Both brands are renowned for their close up embroidery work and exquisite pieces which supports the use of embroidery within my collection. Alongside this, these processes have helped me visualise what my customer will be like, as most people described themselves as confident and some as sassy or fabulous. I will be creating garments for the modern woman who is not afraid to try something new and out of the ordinary, which makes her the perfect fit for couture.
BRAND PROPOSAL 65
THE BRAND: MERAKI 66
Meraki: to do something with soul, creativity, or love; when you leave a piece of yourself in your work Meraki is a couture lingerie brand that create garments for women that makes them feel more confident than they have ever felt before. Founded by a Contour Fashion student, who specialized in lingerie and embroidery within her time at university. The Meraki essence is created by elegance, femininity and the ability to create something daring and provocative. With collections that consist of daring lingerie and exquisite embellishment, these garments will be like no other lingerie seen before. All embellishment will be hand crafted in the headquarters in London, by a collection of atelier workers. Beads are hand crafted in India and other embellishment tools are from the UK. Although beading is a huge aspect of the brand, all embellishment will be innovative and different to all other couture embellishment. Fit is imperative to Meraki, and to ensure that the fit of the garments is going to be completely immaculate, a mannequin will be made to mirror the figure of each customer. Each collection will display a range of different styles that will allow options for women who have different style preferences.
THE BRAND: MERAKI 67 The garments can only be purchased through arranging an appointment through the Meraki website or at the headquaters. From there, an appointment will take place in the London office where all operations will pass through. From this, several meeting will be organized to take measurements, look at dress requirements/desires, ensure fabrics and designs are correct and a final fitting will also take place at the end. Later into the companies life, assuming that it becomes a highly successful couture house, I would consider boutiques like Ralph & Russo have where garments can be hand-picked and adjusted to fit the customer with a quicker turnaround. To add to the elite edge that comes alongside couture garments, the most luxurious fabrics will be sourced especially for each garment; beautiful silks will be incorporated with fine and delicate laces that will feel teasing against the body. These garments will not be available online, however the website will feature detailed photos that will allow the potential customers to have a closer look at what they are interested in purchasing. Photos of collections will also be shown here and will collectively build over the years, allowing customers to see what has been created in the past too. One way of making more profit within a couture brand is by selling accessories, cosmetics or perfumes that allow people who would not be able to buy the dress, wear the label in a different form. When the brand has become well enough established, this is a very good way of targeting different customers and markets. It is also a very good way of creating a following; the more people that are able to purchase small items from your brand, means more people will also become followers of future collections that you create, as well as helping create a better social media following. My brand will be promoted in the ways most couture companies are. Catwalks will attract a lot of attention from the media which will widen the brands fan base dramatically. However, social media is also really important. New releases and catwalk pictures should be posted regularly as well as behind the scenes and in progress embroidery pictures, so that followers can get excited about what's to come. This is also a good way of widening the fan base, because whatever people like or comment on, other people will see. Being in fashion magazines will promote a new couture brand too, because the people who read it will be more inclined to talk about it and inform others if they like what they’ve seen and even maybe promote it on social media where a whole new group of people will see it.
CUSTOMER PROFILE 68
CUSTOMER PROFILE 69 The Meraki customer is a university qualified, wealthy woman in her mid twenties to early forties. She would be confident, daring and adventurous in everyday life and in her fashion choices as well as a professional business woman within work hours. Although she loves the feel of a luxurious tailored suit, lingerie is what she most enjoys indulging her money on. She lives a busy life in a bustling capital city. She expects the best from everything. She is very knowledgeable and passionate about food, dining out most nights. In all other aspects of her life she enjoys the finer things also; cars, houses, fashion and everything always has to be immaculate. Everyday clothes are dry cleaned and collected by the helped that lives in-house, and every single second of her day has been pre-organized so that it can run smoothly and productively. Others wonder how she manages such a hectic lifestyle, but she still finds time to upkeep a good personal life, balancing relationships and family steadily. Flying around the world on a private jet to meet potential business partners is something that occurs on a regular basis and the need to impress is imperative. However, her couture garments are kept safely locked away in the depth of her wardrobe at home, only to be uncovered for the most deserving of occasions. The gala event at the end of the year or a new years party at the exclusive and intimate rooftop party in the center of London, for the more conservative one-pieces in the collection. However, the lingerie based garments will be for anniversaries or secluded and seductive nights of celebration with her partner. This is not an everyday garment. It is couture.
MARKET POSITION 70 Each collection created by Meraki will be individually crafted with the most innovative and individual embellishments, making garments completely one of a kind. To ensure rarity, only 2 people per country can acquire the same garment from a catwalk collection. Any couture enquiries will go through the head office, with several appointments that will help ensure what we create is completely perfect for the customers needs. Because of all of the above, and the very prestigious pricing of couture, these garments will only be available to those who absolutely no limits on their finances. Although couture garments take hundreds of hours to make, the garments often exceed selling prices of ÂŁ30,000 (Shields,R, independent.co.uk, 2010) . Dior and Chanel's sales have been growing year on year in the couture sector of their companies, and it was reveled that this year their couture had taken a 30% (Dior), and 50% (Chanel) rise in the year of 2015 (Mellery-Pratt, R, businessoffashion.com, 2016). This year, the couture market stands at a $750 million market, which can only be assumed to expand in coming years. However, a lot of the bigger brands use couture to sell products to those who cannot afford their usual garments, which is where a lot of their profit comes from. Alongside this, it has also been suggested that corsetry, the most common hand crafted lingerie, retained the highest value in the industry, increasing much more than lingerie and hosiery in years 2010-2014, and increasing by 22.8% in the following year (Keynotes.co.uk, 2015). With garments that are majority hand crafted becoming more and more popular each year, it is fair to consider that couture is growing as a sector each year. Several articles indicate that fashion brands such as Dior, Chanel and Valentino have seen a 20-30% rise in sales of couture garments each year in the past few years.
SIZE & PRICE RANGE 71 The size range for this collection is very hard to predict because of its couture nature. Samples will be made in the standard sample size (size 12) because this is what most industries use as their samples size. However, in terms of future collections, the sample size would probably be reconsidered to a 6 or 8 because this is standardly the size that is normally used on couture catwalks. When someone enquires about a haute couture garments, they have the sole purpose of fitting the one customer that requires it. Therefore a size range is almost impossible to suggest for the future because each customer will vary in size. This will be the same method of conduct as most haute couture houses. Where some brands will work from measurements that they have previously taken, others like Ralph & Russo recreate the body shape of each customer in mannequin form, to ensure that the fit can be as accurate as they can possibly achieve, which is what I intend to do. Pricing will be considered in the first two meetings with the client. Embroidered pieces will range from £5,000,000-£20,000, depending on the garment itself. The reason I have chosen a price bracket that is a lot lower than other couture brands is because some garments will not be as heavily embroidered as others. Where some garments have very little coverage on the body such as a bra and knicker set, there is little room for extensive embroidery, which is the main focus of my brand. The price for these garments will vary however. If a customer wants to order something similar to what they have seen on the catwalk, then its quite easy for a designer to estimate a price quickly because they can create estimates working off of the garment that is being references and has previously been made. Fashion houses will know how long the garment took to be made, how many people worked on the embroidery, and how long the embellishment took as well as the fabric costing's and other additional costs. However, with ordering a couture dress that is not from a collection, the pricing normally runs differently; having to consider what fabric, trimmings, components, embroidery, embellishments are going to cost, alongside the amount of time that the designer has to spend personally hand crafting the garment. Pricing is normally received after careful consideration of this in the form of a quote, and sometimes when this hasn’t been estimated right, the garments have been sold for a loss. With people who are willing to pay generous amounts of money for a dress that is one of a kind, rare and designed to their taste, over-pricing slightly may be considered the more cautious thing to do.
PROMOTION 72 A lot of modern promotion involves the inclusion of social media such as Twitter, Facebook and Instagram. Brands will have social media in order to post pictures of their garments in progress and finished for millions of people to see all over the world. Not only does this encourage people to desire the garments that are being posted, but it also allows people who were previously unaware of a garment or brand to be able to see it. Where one person likes a brand or picture on Instagram or Facebook, it will often show on other users news feed. This is a continuous circle where the brand can easily become far more noticed just through the picture being viewed through their followers liked posts. Also, the use of hashtags (predominantly on Instagram or Facebook) can be an easy way to access brands similar to the one you are looking at, causing more exposure. I will regularly post embroidery updates, design updates, collection photos and advertising photos on social media to keep the attention of the followers. A lot of couture brands are advertised in magazines such as Vogue and Elle, where the brands featured in the articles are often high end or couture. This is a really good way to target the correct target customer as the buyers of these magazines are often interested in these types of brands. Prestigious couture brands really have very little promotion responsibilities because of the media coverage of their catwalk shows and celebrities wearing their garments. However, as well as this, word of mouth will always be an influential type of promotion with couture garments among those who can afford to purchase them. Alongside this, the catwalk shows are a promotion within themselves. The couture shows are very few and far between because there isn't a large amount of designers producing haute couture, making the shows far more prestigious as well as allowing them to gain much more media attention. I have previously mentioned that couture labels will often sell perfumes, cosmetics and accessories using the couture brand name, but often it is high-profit sales like this that will accommodate for most of the profit within the company. “Ironically, many people will buy a $150 bottle of perfume to participate in the lifestyle suggested by the $15,000 couture dress they cannot afford� (Cowen, T, marginalrevolution.com, 2004)
PACKAGING & LABELLING 73 Packaging is a really important aspect to consider when starting a brand, because not only should it support your market level, but they could also be considered a form of promotion. Couture garments are extremely expensive and delicate and should be looked after with the upmost care. I would like my garments to be presented to the customer in the most beautiful packaging. Where most garments will be stored on hangers, in garment bags, the more delicate garments will be presented in boxes. All packaging will be the colour of the garments, with an embroidery print to match that mirrors the embroidery on their garments. Alike this, the garment bags will be printed with embroidery to match the garment that has been ordered, and will be opaque, so that the garment cant be seen through it. This way, the reveal of the garment at first sight will be even more special for the customer. In preparation for the business expanding in the future and producing other accessories, scents and cosmetics, smaller boxes and bags have been designed. The print on these will change every season, and will the favorite embroidery chosen by the couture atelier, from their upcoming collection.
TRENDS 74
COLOUR TRENDS 75 This colour trend that I discovered on WGSN was perfect for the colour scheme of my collection. All the colours are in really dark shades that suit my sketchbook and the colour palette that I'm going for.
COLOUR TRENDS 76 These colours are all deep tones of purple and pinks with a hint of orange and exactly the colours that I have been looking at throughout my sketchbook. Although they are not typical colour matches, they seem to compliment each other really well. The colours and textures in the bottom, left picture are really striking too.
COLOUR TRENDS 77 Berry tones are always very popular for autumnal colouration every year, however the range of shades here is really lovely and are all colours that I would love to explore when looking for fabrics. Generally, I'm looking for something quite dark, but with a warmth to it. If the colours are warm then they are likely to be popular autumnal colours.
STYLE TRENDS 78 Making a garment provocative is something that I think is really important within designing lingerie. If the garment is designed with a cut out bum then I think it really adds to the seductive edge of a lingerie set. These styles are rather exaggerated, therefore I think if I were to design a brief like this, then the cut out would be smaller.
STYLE TRENDS 79 This fabric trend is very interesting as its been a trend that’s been completely over-done with floral laces, however it might be more interesting with a geometric lace like on the left picture. However, even though this trend was interesting to look at, I think its far too popular on the high street to be re-created and maybe I would rather keep the designs really clean.
STYLE TRENDS 80 Although this trend was aimed at swimwear, it very much applies to the intimates market. The high leg trend has been very popular in the last few seasons, and I feel like it is a style that will be consistently popular for a while longer. This is definitely a style to consider to keep my garments fashion-forward.
STYLE TRENDS 81 Although this design feature is used by a lot of big companies such as Chromat, the concept of this is very clever and could maybe be interpreted into a different style using different shapes and panels to compliment the exposed wire.
INFLUENTIAL TREND FORECASTS: INTIMATES POWER GLAM 82
This trend will be very influential for my collection as its very colourful with clashing colours. The theme of the trend seems to be very sassy and confident, as well as being seductive. I will look at styles, colour palettes and the different ways of adding detail to garments.
This first slide is an amazing preview of what the prediction is going to be like. The colours are vibrant and all clash enough that they could compliment each other. The lace placement on the photo on the right is also beautiful, as well as the rectangular centre front of the bra. These are really interesting design features.
INFLUENTIAL TREND FORECASTS: INTIMATES POWER GLAM 83
Both technical flats here are very complex. They have a lot of panels and a lot of straps which has been a long term trend. However what I really like from this trend is the high necks on both of these garments. The demi cup here is also really nice and is a style that is a favourite of mine, however maybe another panel of lace would be a good feature for modesty terms.
The cut out reveal of key parts of the body is what makes a lot of these garments very provocative. Revealing key parts of the body, even through more modest design features like chiffon, can make a garment much more appealing for a seductive garment. The use of lace placement is also really important here, for example, the bottom right garment has lace across the chest, which seems far too modest for the rest of the garment.
INFLUENTIAL TREND FORECASTS: INTIMATES POWER GLAM 84
The high neck detail here is very effective, elongating the neckline which I feel would be really flattering in elongating the body. However, although I think the technical flat for this garment is beautiful, I don’t like the lace placement leading up to the neckline and around the neck. However, the bottom image has straps from the neckline that create a beautiful curved shape. I think this would be really flattering to the cleavage.
INFLUENTIAL FASHION FORECASTS: PAUSE 85 I chose this trend because it heavily influenced my design process. It looks at different influences that would occur during your design process. All that are considered throughout this trend prediction are heavy influencers of a successful garment in the high end fashion market.
The colours here are a very odd mix of shades. With some dark and light shades of all variation, I don’t think that these colours could at all be used together. However, with colours 18-T444 TCX and 19-1528 TCX next to each other, as shades that are very close to what I want to use together, made me realise that this colour scheme is something that I definitely want to use.
INFLUENTIAL FASHION FORECASTS: PAUSE 86
This page simply highlights the importance of hand crafting making a garment completely individual and desirable. It shows that paying complete attention to detail and making your garments completely one of a kind can heighten the desirability and price of your garments excel.
Considering the rarity of the garments is very important to this collection. As a high end lingerie garment the pieces need to differ to anything on the market. Using this research will make my garments completley innovative and unlike anything in the current market which will create a lot of social media exposure and attract attention from industry.
INFLUENTIAL FASHION FORECASTS: PAUSE 87
The idea of a craft being precious is very similar to its rarity. This made me think a lot about fabrics that I will be using and embellishment that I could use to make the garments more unique. The idea of vintage inspiration and recycling also crossed my mind and is something that I might look into in relation to looking at a cathedral that was made in 1344.
The fragile aspect of this publication would work really well with lingerie. A lot of the fabrics we use are very delicate anyway, but this is easily achieved through design in lingerie. The use of translucent fabrics is a very good way of bringing together a lingerie outfit and its something that was highlighted a lot in future trends. The consideration of mesh, organza and chiffon should be looked at a lot more.
INFLUENTIAL FASHION FORECASTS: PAUSE 88
TREND FORECAST CONCLUSION 89 Trends are always really inspirational to look at when considering the design process of a collection. I've found that the colour inspiration is always very important because the popular colours in a season will influence and encourage a customers shopping habits. However, style forecasts are also a very good reference whilst designing and should always be considered. The high leg is predicted to become even more popular in swimwear, so will continue to filter though to the lingerie market as a key style. I also liked the high apex bra that was mentioned, and although I'm unsure of the wires used in this, the style is really quite interesting and looks as if it might be quite flattering. In the ‘Intimates Power Glam’ forecast here the demi bra was really highlighted which will sit really well with my designing – I think the demi cup bra Is a beautiful and a consistently popular shape that gives a very provocative edge to a lingerie set. Alongside this, cut outs were talked about a lot, which adds to the provocative elements in lingerie, however I would use this maybe in a more modest way, where skin coloured mesh covers these areas instead. ‘Pause’ highlighted some lovely colours that I would consider, but I thought that alongside each other they didn’t work all that well. However the principles that they highlighted throughout linked strongly to the couture market that I am seeking to enter. Craftsmanship and rarity are key factors to why people purchase couture garments and the textures that were shown in the pictures were quite an inspiration with the inspiration that I'm working with for my beading. Preciousness was also mentioned and made me consider further what embellishment and design I could use to create something that is really quite unique and one-of a kind.
FINAL MARKET RESEARCH CONCLUSION 90 This market research report has been very useful when determining the decisions that I should make within a couture fashion brand. Although the couture market has a very limited amount of prospective customers, the market is growing drastically every year and brands that are renowned for couture are seeing often more than quarterly rises in sales of couture garments each year. Alongside this, bespoke corsetry is also growing sufficiently each year, suggesting that the appreciation for hand crafted garments in general is rising. My couture competitors were interesting and mentioned within the questionnaire as a couture brand that the respondents are inspired by, therefore this suggests that they were accurate uses of direct competition. By looking into each brand, I realised little details that needed to be considered that I hadn't thought of as well as details that would help the process of making and promoting much easier. From looking at couture brands, I did realise that a lot sell other products to alternative markets where the couture garments are still not affordable to them. This allowed me to visualise what would be necessary to look at if the brand were to expand years down the line. I have found that although not all couture garments are embroidered, this is what a large amount of people expect within a couture garment and what I would like to include in all of my garments. However, uniqueness was also considered a key factor, so the garment still has to be innovative and individual at the same time. A lot of women were concerned about flattery, therefore this is going to be the main focus when designing garments. Fromlooking at the brands, I realised that I didn’t want my brand to fit into any of these sectors. I wanted the garments to be as elaborate as couture brands such as Valentino, however I wanted them to only be lingerie based. Other brands I looked at that produced couture lingerie, also had much more simplistic collections that would be considered high end designer. I believe that this brand would be a niche in the market, as there are no couture houses that offer only lingerie couture garments.
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