TASTING: TEQUILA TESTS THE TASTEBUDS

TALKING TEQUILA

SOUTH AFRICANS LOVE TEQUILA. IT’S WHY THE COUNTRY IS THE FOURTH LARGEST MARKET FOR IT IN THE WORLD – AND GROWING. BUT THE PERCEPTION OF TEQUILA BEING A HARSH, FIERY, WINCE AND GRIMACEINDUCING SPIRIT IS DUE FOR AN UPGRADE, AS THIS TASTING DEMONSTRATED.

TASTER S: HEC TOR MCBE TH, C L I F F O R D R O B E R T S , S H AY N E D OW L I N G , GR A N T S AY E R S O F T H E S T O L I GR O U P , JA N LAUB SC HER OF DRINKSFEED, JEA N BUC KHAM OF THE GIN B OX A ND FIONA MCDONALD.

There were eyebrows raised and a bit of trepidation expressed at the start of the tasting. After all, it’s not every day one gets to sample 16 different Tequilas across the stylistic spectrum. Spirit aficionado Hector McBeth provided a briefing on the styles ... mixtos/ blanco, 100% agave, reposado and añejo descriptions and definitions, just to refresh the memory.

The 16 spirits were divided into four separate flights with the mixtos/blanco up first. These are essentially either pure agave Tequila straight off the stills or mixed with cane spirit. Flight two comprised the reposados, flight three the 100% agave and flight four had just two añejo.

Jan Laubscher hit the nail on the head when he pointed out that consumers are so used to tasting panels assessing whisky and brandy – even gin – but Tequila was not given the same attention. “There’s respect for Single Malt whisky, pot-stilled brandy and even the blended categories of both but Tequila not so much...”

The mindset and appreciation needs to change – and after this particular exercise, all present felt like donning armour and going into battle to promote the cause of this overlooked spirit. Everyone thinks you shoot a glass with salt, lime or lemon to get the party started but there’s a surprising amount of subtle differences between the various producers and brands.

Tasters found themselves expressing disbelief at getting mint, vinegar and even shy floral notes on both the nose and the palate of so many of the spirits on the tasting bench.

“I honestly didn’t expect to find this much diversity,” said Jean Buckham of the The Gin Box. “I’ll be looking at Tequila with a huge amount of respect in future. And also urging friends to line them up and seriously taste them alongside each other to see the differences.”

Hector said people should also start looking at the añejo category because this is where a lot of Tequila producers are focussing their efforts, aging spirit for at least a year in barrels which had previously been used for Bourbon. Being smaller volume American oak barrels, the American white oak imparts a sweet vanilla and caramel spice to the maturing spirit which adds an extra element of appeal.

FLIGHT ONE

OLMECA ALTOS The Altos kicked off with a bright saline note, Jean said while Hector stated it was the most balanced spirit in the first flight. “Soft, dry with powdered ginger heat,” he said. Shayne again appreciated its length of flavour while Clifford noted a gentle smokiness.

EL JIMADOR BLANCO Noticeably different to the others in this flight – quite minty. Even a hint of aniseed toothpaste, Clifford found. Understated and subtle – not an “in-yourface” spirit, Shayne said, finding it smooth with a lingering finish.

JOSE CUERVO TRADICIONAL Subtle floral perfume with almond and marzipan or nuttiness, Fiona found. That nuttiness as well as a slight vegetal, green note was apparent in the mouth, along with shy violets. Smooth in texture with a touch of licorice on the aftertaste, Hector said.

JOSE CUERVO ESPECIAL “It’s got a typical vegetal agave nose,” said Jean. Good concentration of spirit in the mouth, warm and peppery. Green vine leaves and a light balsamic vinegar note that comes through along with a husky sweetness, said Hector, pointing out that agave syrup is very sweet so consumers shouldn’t be surprised to find it.

ESPOLÒN BLANCO Brisk discussion about this spirit. “I’d say this is a sipper because you have to think and pay attention to it.” Hector agreed saying he’d found cut green chillies, layers of flavour with some balsamic vinegar and spirit warmth. It had a rich warmth, Jan and Grant noted.

FLIGHT TWO

JOSE CUERVO ESPECIAL Distinct agave vegetal aromas, said Jan. Clifford likened the nose to vegetable stock. Jean found it sweet on the palate with a caramel richness counterbalanced by a vivid spirit note. Fresh ginger bite too.

SICARIO REPOSADO The locally produced spirit was one which evoked quite a lot of comment. Smoky braai grid, green peach and succulent plants with a big coffee liqueur flavour and aniseed sweetness. “Unlike anything else on the table,” said Shayne who pronounced himself “pleasantly surprised” by its boldness.

FLIGHT THREE

JOSE CUERVO TRADICIONAL REPOSADO Leafy aroma with warm spices and again cut green chillies, said Hector. Layered, with a hint of jasmine. Clifford liked the simple, straightforward peppery spiciness of the spirit.

EL JIMADOR REPOSADO Comments for this one ranged from Cream Soda (Shayne) to mint jelly (Fiona), vanilla cupcake (Jan) and ginger beer (Clifford)! Hector said other than drinking it, he’d be happy to wear it as a cologne! Subtle, rounded and smooth. “Would work exceptionally well in a Margarita,” said Hector.

ESPOLÒN REPOSADO Walnut, ginger and gentle pear aromas and even flavour. Salted caramel notes with sandalwood was Hector’s note while Shayne found butterscotch and Jean English Toffee. Creamy but with shy notes of hard candy and a gentle hum of heat.

HERRADURA REPOSADO Another interesting one with Shayne finding soy sauce and Clifford sweet sawdust. There were notes of Hot Cross Buns – a sort of yeastiness with some raisin and sultana nuances while Jan found a sweet vanilla vibe going on.

DON JULIO Honeyed toffee, syrup and caramel on the nose. “Really rich mouthfeel which heads towards that sweet honeyed note and then the all spice kicks in at the end,” said Hector. An excellent example of a very good 100% agave. Ideal to sit and sip because it’s so smooth and refined.

OLMECA ALTOS REPOSADO Bran husk and autumn leaves, Fiona said. Strong vegetal agave character, both Jean and Hector found. Ripe with layers of jasmine, agave, white pepper and dolmades.

FLIGHT FOUR

HERRADURA AÑEJO Elegant with a grassy note, Clifford found while Jean noted fudgey, tin roof icecream flavour – which Jan experienced as a spicy, ginger cake element. Hector said it was reminiscent of a workshop with sawdust and green fruit. Smooth.

KAH “This is like the Mediterranean,” said Jean. “There’s a salty/ briny, olive tang to it.” Other tasters picked up similar notes – like tomato and pizza, herb notes but with lovely sweet smoothness and spicy kick. Gentle and contemplative.

KAH AÑEJO Salted caramel and coffee boldness. Jan found this spirit quite textural and almost oily on the palate. Green agave, for Hector, which rolled into freshroasted coffee beans with a smoky kick. “It’s almost got a peated vibe,” he said.

The panel found it difficult to select a favourite in the last flight because both were so good. They decided to call it a draw although the funky painted Kah skull packaging came in for special mention.

SEVEN COLOURS SUNDAYS & SCOTCH

Tommie’s Margherita 50ml Don Julio Reposado 25ml Freshly Squeezed Lime Juice 25ml Agave Nectar METHOD: Shake and strain GLASS: Tumbler with cubed ice GARNISH: Orange Peel

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