JUNE 2019
ISSUE 11
#FINEDININGINDIAN
WORLDS FINEST INDIAN FOOD MAGAZINE
CREATING
indian LEGENDS
Young indian chefs creating History COMING YOUR WAY
“Lots of famous chefs today don’t look whacked, because they don’t work. They have a healthy glow and a clear complexion. There is blood in their cheeks. They haven’t got burns on their wrists and cuts on their hands.” Marco pierre white #FINEDININGINDIAN | 02
JUNE 2019
CONTENTS • FINEDININGINDIAN
06 june 2019 Issue 11
CHEF VINESH JOHNY creating a legacy of extra ordinaire pastry
20 CHEF MUKTAR QURESHI Bringings his legandary culinary roots to plate
Table of Contents
28 KERALA CULINARY TRAVEL By an awesome Host Mr. Wilson Rajan
41 AMAZING RECIPES FORM FINEDININGINDIAN use this for home and restuarant
WWW.FINEDININGINDIAN.COM • @FINEDININGINDIA
06 20 28
41
Gratitude Letter
Editor Ms.Supriya Premaraj
Dear Readers,
we are happy to present our second Quarter Issue for 2019
Sincere Gratitude for all chefs who been featured in this Issue by providing timely articles, Interview, Images and Recipes.
Its an Immense proud and achievement in featuring so
Featured Chefs Vinesh Johny Muktar Qureshi
Courtesy All Images to their respective chefs and providers
any talented Indian chef . Do let us know if you know some one would be deserving in featuring .
For Chef Muktar Qureshi :
Ms. Sana qureshi special We are so grateful and happy that Fine dining Indian is Recognised Worldwide for its Vision, Our readers are
correspondent
increasing day by day.
We urge all Indian chefs around the globe to provide your recipes and articles for our future issues. We are also looking for promoters, through product placement advertisement.
We strive to push forward in achieving our vision "To be the face of Finest Indian cuisine In the world "
Please write to chef@finediningindian.com
With Gratitude, Founder
Bobby Geetha
Write to us Chef@finediningindian.com or send message through Instagram
#finediningindian #FINEDININGINDIAN | 05
Our Vision: " Being the world's best fine dining Indian cuisine website and magazine" We strive to achieve this by providing a platform for all Indian food lovers around the globe. March 2019
Vinesh Johny is Asia’s top pastry chef, Forbes Under 30 Asia 2016. CNN 20 under 40 and Expert for WorldSkills India. As co-founder of Lavonne Academy of Baking Sciences & Pastry Arts, India’s first international baking academy. How you become a chef and why?
This in itself is amazing and I am sure it has set
It was back during my hotel management
the foundation for all the glory you will receive
days, when I realized my love & passion for
in the days to come. However, it is extremely
pastry arts. After graduating from culinary
imperative that you solidify your dreams and
school, I went on to work with The Oberoi
aspiration with some formal education and
Group of Hotels and Starwood Hotels &
learning. The initial investment made in
Resorts, in various capacities within the
educating yourself will surely take you a long
realm of Pastry. Every experience I have had
way in understanding the art, the chemistry of
during university, internships and my hotel
ingredients and the science involved. Education
days, through the people I have met and
will also help you understand the fundamentals
worked with has only helped in strengthening
of basic subjects like storage, safety, hygiene,
the bedrock of passion I have towards
shelf life, costing, entrepreneurship, etc.
baking and pastry art. More than anything, I
Learning never stops. Therefore, my only advise
absolutely love what I do, and my love only
to all is to constantly keep learning.
grown stronger each day!
How you explain your style of cooking?
I usually look for and incorporate lesser known
What message you want to give to young chefs out there?
but intriguing flavours & ingredients. It is imperative that the final product compliments
If you are looking at being a part of the
every flavour profile and must surely have a
baking world, it surely means that you have
balance of the right textures. Some sponge, a
already been inspired in the past and you
little mousse, jelly and most importantly the
have developed a certain degree of passion
crunch. There is also a lot of focus on the finish
for the craft.
and garnish. The cakes and pastries are mostly modern, stylish & luxe.
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“India has given me more than I have given (it). This country has been a very emotional experience for me.”
What are your memorable achievement in your professional life? Why it was important for you? It definitely would be being featured on the Forbes 30 Under 30 list and the continued association after. It was important because it came to me at a time when I was least expecting an award of such grandeur. It was so surreal for me when the final list was announced. Each day after that has only reminded me of the times, the situations, the people and events that have contributed to my presence here today with you. It is such a proud moment for the people back in India right now. My team, my students, my friends and my family. I want to thank them all for being supportive and sticking by my side. All of this has been a very emotional and a humbling journey for me. I have immense gratitude to Forbes for recognizing my art under their mighty graciousness.
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What is your concept of a writing a menu for your Restaurant and how a new dish makes to the menu list?
How you keep up to date with a constantly evolving world's culinary scene?
Although it is true that the culinary landscape is
For both my team and myself, pastry has always
constantly evolving, it is very important for chefs to
been about flavour pairing, texture combinations,
have a strong foundation of the very basics. Age
mouth feel and of-course the look. Each dish on
old techniques and recipes are still the foundation
the menu is always approached with these
of all the incredible dishes we see every day. It is
components in mind. A lot of time is spent in our
therefore imperative to know your basics very well,
test kitchen doing numerous trials, research and
respect the art and also keep yourself upbeat by
tastings, before we finalize on a particular dish.
constantly learning. Learning for me happens
every day. From books, the internet, to the people I
How you develop your team, what responsibilities and freedom you give to your juniors?
meet, the chefs I work with and most importantly; travel. Although keeping up pace may sometimes be challenging, to be relevant in todays world, I
I have always encouraged my team to implement
firmly believe that travelling is the best teacher of
their creativity in coming up with new recipes
all.
and ideas. We spend a lot of time in the test
tasting new menu items. During research and
One of your worst food critic or comment you received and how you dealt with it?
development, we are always in the lookout for
lesser known ingredients, working with both
Every day, chefs are constantly criticized and
classic and newest techniques to be able to
judged. You may have created a brilliant dish, but
create flavours, textures and most importantly; a
there is always room for criticism, thoughts,
memory. All of the recipes, be it for the academy
opinions and judgements from people who may
or the pastry shop has always been a combined
know less or more than you. The key is to listen
team effort. And I’m so proud of my team! Even
closely and take in what is relevant but also
in my absence I am rest assured that nothing will
remember the once that are not.
kitchen in designing, creating, critiquing and
obstruct the flow of production.
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What would you like to do more for a chef support system in helping each other in achieving success? Cross promotion?
my best to promote my chefs and also people from across
What will be Indian cuisine & Indian chef’s future according to you, what should be Indian chefs approach in making Indian cuisine best in The World?
the world who doing their best to add value to the art.
Indian cuisine is already
Likewise, many chefs across do the same for each other.
widely popular across the
Apart from this, at Lavonne we make it a point to keep
globe. It surely stands out
bringing down Chefs from across the globe for Master &
among the top few
Demo classes. Through this programme, chefs get to
preferred cuisines globally.
showcase their art to a brand new audience and vice-versa.
Today, our culture and
Today’s culinary and pastry world is mostly dominated via social apps such as Instagram, Facebook & Snapchat. I try
history is so visible in the
Any daily rituals you do and how it helps you to stay active, Motivated?
food we prepare and eat. With hundreds of incredible
regional cuisines within
Cross fit is a big part of my fitness regime. Ever since I took
India, it is sometimes too
it up, there’s been no looking back. Fitness now occupies a
easy to forget a majority of
big part of my day to day activity. Cross fit in particular has
them. With so much
been great for me and I love spending time at the gym and
modernization happening
pushing my limits each day. Having said that, it is your food
globally, I sincerely hope
plan for the day which is most critical towards maintaining a
that ancient recipes,
healthy body and mind.
techniques and methods won’t be forgotten. I would
How you judge a young chef and how you test him for the long term?
love for children to also experience the
awesomeness of Indian
Young Chefs are the future of our culinary world. It always
home cooking at their time
amazes me to see so much enthusiasm and passion for the
as well.
art. However, their success is mainly dependant on their attitude and endurance levels. It’s too easy to go on giving it your all for a while, before you drop the ball. It is very important to be fully committed and be prepared for all the
Name top five Indian restaurants around the world according to you?
nuances that come along the way. A lot of people assume that being a chef is easy. But the reality is quite the
Indian Accent – New Delhi
opposite. However, as long as you truly love what you do,
Karavalli – Bangalore
your long term success won’t be too hard to achieve. So,
Gaa – Bangkok
when I talk to interact with young chefs, apart from the work
Bukhara – New Delhi
that they do, I look closely for their love for food, a sense of
Bombay Canteen – Mumbai
responsibility, and an attitude to keep bettering themselves.
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Name a few top Indian chefs according to you? Chef Manish Malhotra Chef Vineeth Bhatia Chef Gaggan Anand Chef Manu Chandra Chef Amninder Sandhu Chef Thomas Zachariah
How you choose an Indian restaurant to eat with the family, what dishes you look for in the menu? Indian food is so good at home that we rarely go out to Indian restaurants. Once in a while however, when we do find ourselves at an Indian restaurant, the dishes that are usually ordered are mostly soups, naans, grills from the tandoor, rich gravies, biryanis, tawa fries, and pretty much all of the desserts. It’s the whole mumbo jumbo, when we dine Indian!
Does classic or modern dishes stand ahead of time, why according to you? Classic Indian recipes and cooking in my opinion will always be close to my heart. With so much modernization happening globally, I sincerely hope that ancient recipes, techniques and methods won’t be completely lost. With the influence of social media, more and more chefs are getting quite experimental with their approach. Although, they come up with fascinating results, the dish itself does not stand the test of time and is soon replaced with another brand-new creation.
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Ingredients Double chocolate cookie Butter
74 g
Caster sugar 60 g Brown sugar
Eggs
1/2 egg
Vanilla Peanut butter Salt Soda Flour Cocoa powder
67 g
5 ml 67 g 5 g 1.5 g 77 g 30 g
Dark chocolate, chopped 110 g
Method: 1. Cream the butter, sugar and peanut butter together till light and fluffy. 2. Add the eggs and vanilla in parts, making sure the the eggs are incorporated well before the next addition. 3. Once all the eggs are in, fold in the dry ingredients in 2-3 parts. 4. Portion the dough into 40g portions and roll into balls. Place on a tray with silicon mat or parchment paper. 5. Chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Bake at 170C for 16 minutes.
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DOUBLE CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES RECIPE BY CHEF VINESH JHONY
PREPARATION TIME 40 MINUTES. COOKING TIME 10 MINUTES. SERVES 15
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Method: 1.Heat
f i r s t
s u g a r
a n d
s m a l l
2.At
p u r e e
c o m m o n
s t e w i n g t h i s
s e c o n d
Mallow
s u g a r
a n d
s t a n d
m i x e r
Sugar
Raspberry Invert
Puree-1
sugar
Gelatin
300g 70g 105g
sheet
28g
p a r t
t o
w a r m
o f
t h e
p u r e e . a n d
i n v e r t
s u g a r
p a n
t i m e
Ingredients Fruit Marsh
Caster
w i t h
i n
1 0 6
a
ºC.
t h e i n v e r t
P o u r
i n t o
a
s t a r t
w h i s k i n g .
3.Soak c o l d
g e l a t i n
w a t e r ,
e x c e s s
s h e e t
s q u e e z e
w a t e r .
A d d
i n o u t
i t
t o
a t h e t h e
f i r s t
Additionally: Raspberry Invert
Puree
–2
sugar
70g
105g
f r u i t - s u g a r
w h i s k
4.Pour s a m e
u n t i l
s t a n d
c o n t i n u e
Corn
flour
r e a c h e s
Icing
sugar
20g 80g
5.Pour
s y r u p
i n t o
m i x e r
a n d
w h i s k i n g s t i f f
i n t o
d u s t e d
t h e
u n t i l
m a s s
p e a k s .
a
w i t h
s q u a r e
t h e
i c i n g
s u g a r
m i x .
6.Let
i t
a t
s e t
a n d
d i s s o l v e d .
t h i s
Dusting mixture:
s y r u p
c o r n
m o u l d , f l o u r
r o o m
t e m p e r a t u r e .
7.Cut t h e
i n t o
i c i n g
c o r n f l o u r
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c u b e s
s u g a r
a n d
t o s s
i n
a n d
m i x .
JUNE 2019
FRUIT MARSH MALLOW RECIPE BY CHEF VINESH JHONY
PREPARATION TIME 4 HRS . COOKING TIME 20 MINUTES. SERVES 25 PIECES
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AT AGE 10, HE WOULD WANDER INTO HIS FAMILY’S LEGENDARY DHABA IN LUCKNOW - THE CITY OF KEBABS & NAWABS. THE CURIOSITY TO SEE HOW FINE FOOD HAD A SEAMLESS POWER TO INVOKE EMOTIONS MADE HIM COME BACK EVERYDAY.
MASTER CHEF, MUKHTAR QURESHI, AT UMMRAO, COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT, MUMBAI,
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How did you become a chef and why ? It was inheritance with the Lucknow times and I gave it a thought when I came to Mumbai looking for a job where I began as a trainee in
What are your most memorable achievement in your professional life? why was it important for you ? In the year 2011, I catered to 600 people at a wedding function where I cooked 199 dishes
Copper Chimney where I learnt to make rumali
which was great achievement for me. The year
roti. I have always had love for food since
after that gave me the prestigious Best Chef
childhood it makes me happy and when people
award for Neel
like my food it makes me feel very satisfied.
How can you explain your style of cooking?
What is your concept for a forming a new menu for your restaurant and how do you shortlist the dishes?
For me consistency is the key and that matters
Being a Qureshi, I focus more on the kebabs
the most. No compromise on that. Raw material holds great importance. Each dish that is cooked taking its own sweet time will always have a better taste and that should always
and non veg dishes. A biryani in a menu is a must for me and so is the dal. A menu composition depends on the restaurant covers. For instance if a restaurant has 60 covers then my menu would have 35 dishes
come from the chef’s heart
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ONE CANNOT THINK WELL, LOVE WELL AND SLEEP WELL IF ONE HAS NOT DINED WELL. Virginia Woolf
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How do you develop your team, what responsibilities and freedom do you give your subordinates? I give personal training to the team and educate them prior for a month or two. I teach them to focus on the visual aspect with taste followed by service. I let the team innovate different dishes which is a part of experimentation and boosts their morale
What message do you want to give younger chefs out there ? I quite like the zeal in young chefs out there trying to experiment with all the local food. We do need young chefs like them who will make Indian food more popular. It’s indeed a learning from them too
How do you keep up to date with the constantly evolving world's culinary scene? Everyone has its own style of cooking and we should not get diluted in it thereby adhering to the authenticity of the product that we have always been known for
One of your worst food critic or comment you received and how did you deal with it? One of the worst comment that I got was when the critic thought that the clove in the curry was a fly. I tried explaining to him and instead of taking it negatively I visually showed it to him to make him realise the right thing. There has been other such instances too but guest is God and if he/she isn’t satisfied, I apologize, seek for their recommendation and work on it to make them happy.
What would you like to do more for a chef support system in helping each other in achieving success? Cross promotion, etc. The more you give an extra hand to the chefs they would appreciate it and its always better to work together removing the negativity in the system if any. We need to give our back to each other and elevate together
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Any daily rituals you do and how it helps you to stay active, motivated ?
A Book or an Incident that influenced you and how it changed your approach to life?
Check on all the guest feedback and daily meet
with the guests to understand how and where
I am very fond of reading old books. Royal
things need to improve and where I have
dining Nawab by Muzafar Ali book gave
exceeded expectations
me a ray of my all my ancestor that I had forgotten about and never knew. This gave
How do you judge a young chef and how you test him for the long term?
me all the more reasons to do justice to my food and its royalty
young chef. Passion is the key.
How do you choose an Indian restaurant to eat with the family, what dishes do you look for in the menu?
By the interest he/she shows in food and his way of working would tell me everything about the
what will be Indian cuisine & Indian chef’s future according to you, what should be Indian chefs approach in making Indian cuisine best in the world?
Hindustan me khazana he khazana hai !!!
Daal and rice first with kebab and curry holds utmost importance
Does classic or modern dishes stand ahead of time? why according to you ?
It’s because people are liking it and chefs
I already feel that we have been delayed in
are making amendments in those dishes to
bringing forward our cuisine but Indians are
make it look big
typically slow but steady in their pace. Just have
faith in your product and cuisine the rest will be
taken care by planning throughout
Name top five Indian restaurants around the world according to you?
Article by Sana Qureshi.
Bukhara, Masala Library, Indian accent, Bombay
Correspondent, (Mumbai)
canteen, Rasoi
Name Top Five Indian chefs of all Time according to you ? Imitiaz Qureshi, Anand Soman, Ishtiaq Qureshi, Sanjeev Kapoor, Ranveer Brar
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Method For Orange Broth •Heat
ghee
in
pan,
sauté
onion,
green chilli,carrots&Beanstill
Ingredients:
add
orange
more Scallops 2 pcs GreenChilli 5 gm Clarified butter/Ghee 30 gm
Segments
minutes.
•Sieved
Blend
orange
cook
in
juice
scallop and
cook
further
blender
mixture
the consistenty.Finish for
translucent
it
with
for
and
,
few
stain
it.
adjust cream
Add
2 mins.
Whitepepper powder 3 gms
Ricottacheese 30 gm
For Scallops
Cream 60 ml
•Clean
&
Pat
dry
the
scallops.
Marinate
the
Macepowder 2 gm
scallops
with
ginger
garlic
paste,
salt
and
Greencardamom powder 5 gm
lemon
juice
.
Gingerand garlic Paste10 gm
•Add
White
Salt 8 gm Lemonjuice 1 wedge Whiteonion 100 gm Malta orange juice 150 ml Carrot 20 Gms French Beans 20gms Mint 2gms
pepper powder,Mace&Greencardamom Powder,
check
seasoning.
this marinationon
the
Rub
scallops
and
sear
it
on
griddle. •Plate
the
garnish
over
the
broth
and
with Ricotta,RedRaddish&friedMint
Chef tips: can
scallops
also
if
use
scallops fresh
are
prawns
not or
available fresh
you
salmon
in
recipe.
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Tawa Jalpari Scallop | Orange Broth RECIPE BY CHEF MUKTAR QURESHI
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AS A DESTINATION EXPERT & HOST, WILSON FOR THE LAST COUPLE OF YEARS HAS BEEN LEADING CULINARY TOURS TO THE SOUTH OF INDIA AND SRI LANKA. A RESTAURATEUR BY PROFESSION, HE RECENTLY MADE HIS TRANSITION BACK HOME FROM THE SULTANATE OF OMAN AND NOW PROMOTES RURAL TOURISM THROUGH HIS ‘HOME IN A VILLAGE’ LOCATED IN KERALA, INDIA. BY WAY OF A PROGRAM CALLED ‘ROUTE TO ROOTS’ HE OFFERS A PLATFORM TO EMBRACE SUSTAINABLE AND RESPONSIBLE VILLAGE LIFESTYLE. HEREIN ONE ALSO GETS TO COOK LOCAL KERALAN CUISINE ALONG WITH HIS MOTHER, PONNAMMA AND WITNESS THE MAKING OF TRADITIONAL SNACKS AT ‘PONNAMMACHI’S PALAHARAM’ A UNIT STARTED WITH THE IDEA OF EMPOWERING LOCAL WOMEN AND SUPPORT VILLAGEWAYS.
WILSON RAJAN
INSTAGRAM:RAJAN.WILSON
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Culinary Travel…for a journey full of flavours!
Over
the last five odd years, culinary travel
and food tourism has become a major player
The desire to indulge in an incredible in the travel industry, driving growth and gastronomic fare is inspiring many to travel expansion in the current and emerging around the world, thereby making culinary markets as more and more travelers seek to travel one of the most promising segments of experience different cultures through food, tourism. beverage and its related engagements. And
The
it’s not only tour operators and agents who history of travel arose from the need for are positioning themselves to this surging
people to traverse endless landscapes in demand, but properties, resorts, hotels and search of food and water. And, if there’s one stand-alone restaurants that have been thing which has defined human nature preparing to capitalize on it. throughout history, it is our restless, uncontrollable impulse to move, to discover and cross new borders, to adapt to new
A
culinary traveler desires local, unique and
individualized travel experiences rooted in a environments---the same unquenchable deeper understanding and appreciation of inquisitiveness continues to this age, the destinations they visit. Apart from something we call tourism. authenticity, culinary travelers also seek to
Tourism
explore the artistry, traditions and heritage is a social, cultural and economic surrounding the food and beverage of the
phenomenon that involves the movement of destination, as well as the people who people to countries or destinations outside of create food and drink of that region. Chefs, their own. Traditionally, destinations are winemakers, farmers and other artisans are well-defined geographical areas---places held in high regard by today’s foodie where a traveler can rest, spend time amidst travelers. nature, appreciate historical monuments, witness and be part of the local traditions and customs, attend festivals and events,
The
enthusiasm to identify and understand
of what happens behind the scene, the taste local cuisine and partake of its unique desire to know more about the ingredients culture and features. and process of the product has made way
Culinary
for; Interactive culinary demonstrations, culture is the longest surviving part farmers market visit, spice plantation tour,
of a culture and tradition. Our cuisines farm trips, cooking at a farm kitchen, tea reflect our customs, religious beliefs and factory visit, vineyard tour, walk over to a habits. In fact, they are not just a mirror of local mill, jaggery or snack making unit, our daily lifestyle, but also of our national dining at native food joints, street food identity. And as an expression of our identity, experience, a meal at a homestay, and a food provides an important link to our whole lot of food related interactions and cultural heritage and connects us to people experiences. and places.
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MORNING SIGHT OF A VILLAGE MARKET YOU WITNESS WITH A TRIP WITH MR.RAJAN
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This
growing trend of culinary travel has also
inspired international chefs to take up
A
few tips to prepare and extract the
maximum from your gastronomic tour:
culinary travels with many today leading travellers over ‘chef-led tours’. These
- Get an overview of the culinary culture
specialized tours not just offer a platform for
of the destination you would like to visit.
chefs to showcase and share their knowledge
- Identify not just restaurants and local
but are a means to enrich and sharpen their
places to eat but also dishes that you
skills too. Chef-led tours are an extraordinary
would want to savour, remember local is
gastronomic journey as they present a rare
the word.
opportunity for culinary travelers to discover,
- If the cuisine is very new to new to you,
indulge and interact and allow both the chef
start with smaller portions and slowly
and the travelers to take along local ideas
build your palate to appreciate a full
and authentic recipes into their kitchens.
meal. - Over a culinary demo; document the
A
culinary traveler is today willing to travel
details, involve in every process, notice
anywhere to seek and experience the
how the dish is evolving through the
intense, complex, and layered flavours of
process, ask and clear every doubt.
cuisines native to a destination---making
- Notice the cookware too. You need a
food tourism a global phenomenon with the
special pan to make hoppers, one which
choice of destinations spread across the
you may not be available at your place.
globe. And this augmented interest in food
So, also the ingredients add them all to
and food culture is an opportunity for tourism
your buy list.
stakeholders, including food travelers to
- Take photos of the ingredients, the
golocal, which makes native eateries,
process and the finished product,
establishments where food tradition is being
including its presentation and
followed over generations and family-run
accompaniments.
homestays hold great promise for
- Participate in all culinary activities, be
gastronomic travel.
it local market visits, spice plantation tours, farm trips, etc., these are an
Where
cooking traditions are still preserved,
important aspects of your gastronomic
where every dish has a story, where one can
journey.
unearth the culture to which the dish
- Remember that the success of your
belongs, where the dish is not only special to
culinary travel depends on you more than
those who prepare it, but also for those who
anyone or anything so travel with an open
are willing to embrace its heritage---here is
mind, take the initiative, engage and
your culinary destination.
enjoy everything that comes on the platter.
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YOUR HEALTHY AND EARTHY LUNCH SPREAD WITH ORGANIC PRODUCES
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VERANDAH
PROGRESSIVE INDIAN RESTAURANT IS LOCATED IN THE KIRBY COLLECTION BUILDING AT 3300 KIRBY DRIVE, SUITE A. IT IS OPEN DAILY TUESDAY-SUNDAY FOR LUNCH AND DINNER (CLOSED MONDAYS). HOURS ARE 11 A.M.-2:30 P.M. AND 5 P.M.-11 P.M. DAILY. BRUNCH HOURS ARE 11 A.M.-3 P.M. SATURDAY AND SUNDAY. PARKING IS AVAILABLE IN THE BUILDING’S PARKING GARAGE WITH VOUCHERS AVAILABLE IN THE RESTAURANT. VALET SERVICE IS ALSO AVAILABLE AT THE KIRBY DRIVE ENTRANCE. RESERVATIONS ONLY. FOR INFORMATION OR RESERVATIONS, CALL 281-501-0258 OR 832-886-4291 OR VISIT WWW.VERANDAHRESTAURANT.COM.. Article : by Mark G Hanna
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Chef Sunil Srivastava and Anupama
In
Srivastava
walls
Husband and wife owners of the Verandah
of
Progressive Indian Restaurant
symbols
HOUSTON
…To listen to Chefs Sunil
air
the
colors,
and
the
even
main
and
of
the
flooring,
the
dining earth,
ether,
the
lofty room
fire,
the
ceiling are
water,
carrier
of
and Anupama Srivastava talk about their
sound.
newest restaurant, Verandah in the Upper
And in the food is a story that makes
Kirby area, one is very quickly aware the
Verandah. Chef Sunil has added a
venture itself barely scratches the surface of what this unique Indian restaurant
lot more than a collection of perfectly chosen ingredients.
represents. If Verandah were a book, this book’s cover is both beautiful and enticing, encouraging one to explore the twists and surprises enclosed inside. The couple’s design ideas have transformed the street-level restaurant space in the Kirby Collection building at 3300 Kirby Drive into a mesmerizing, multiroom dining location. The contemporary décor in each of the rooms offers a welcoming comfort, perfect for leisure
“My approach to preparing food is free-style,” he says. “I am committed to the avant-garde, but at the same time, I am still faithful to the memory of different generations of the country's ancestors who were dedicated to feeding people. That means each time I am blending herbs and spices and working them into a dish, it must be turned into a masterpiece.”
dining. The two are certainly not new on the Houston-area culinary scene. They
Inside this book’s attractive cover is an moved to Sugar Land in 2009 and
intriguing and entertaining story, told in the began work consulting on Indian
pages of Chef Sunil’s menus. The dishes he presents are often classics, familiar names to anyone with an understanding of Indian cuisine, yet these dishes have been rewritten by the chef’s own hand. “This is our own style,” he says. “These are our recipes. This is our way of doing things.” And what makes this literary comparison even more complete are all the many chapters of thought the two put into every
cuisines, followed soon in 2010 by the Great W’Kana Café in Meadows Place. Implementing his usual avantgarde style, his food met with immediate acclaim, and the café soon had the attention of people all over the Houston area. In 2014, they opened a second location in West Houston on Briar Forest just east of Eldridge.
facet of planning that have both created and maintained Verandah as the one-of-akind Indian restaurant it is.
#FINEDININGINDIAN | 30
JUNE 2019
THE NAME, LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE THIS COUPLE INVOLVE THEMSELVES IN, HAS MEANING, TOO. “BACK HOME, THE VERANDA IS THE PLACE WHERE EVERYONE IS ENTERTAINED,” HE EXPLAINS.
#FINEDININGINDIAN | 31
JUNE 2019
The move found an entire new group of fans. The restaurant has been included in the Houston Chronicle’s Top 100 Restaurants list every year since 2011. The couple closed the Meadows Place location in 2017 as plans for Verandah
After
graduating
management best
school
India),
he
Grand
he
institute of
(the
2nd
arts
in
at
the
Sheraton,
Just
the
hotel
training
Kakatiya,
won
the
culinary
began
Hyderabad.
from
two
Best
years
Chef
and
later, gold
began taking shape. medal Both Sunil and Anupama were born in India. Both are also graduates of the Institute of Hotel Management, he from the campus in Bangalore, and she from the campus in Chennai. Anupama is also a certified hospitality educator awarded by the American Hotel and
for
Culinary
Creations.
youngest
job
offer
line
to
be
the
five-star
Maritime
that family and neighbors would gather
ship
He
luxury
cruise for
to
ports
and
introduced
asking
The
on
Astor
Cruise
the
a
Chef
ship
young
him
the
cruise
Seafood
opened the
was
prompted
Voyages).
to
French
Germany,
their
charter
job
doors
a
in
in
the
That
in
him
Sunil’s interest in becoming a chef began
in
from
based
(under
in Jaipur, Rajasthan, India. It was there
chef
competition.
Lodging Association.
as a child at home in his mother’s kitchen
excellence
&
cruise
world’s
chef.
around
the
It
took
world
to cook for parties and other special events, sometimes creating meals for 120 people or more. He grew up surrounded
innumerable
styles.
and friends. The kitchen was a living
prepare
meals
room, playground, a place for doing
people,
homework, for watching television and
scratch.
No
for breathing in the constant aromas of
the
ship
job,
not
lead
the
seafood,
the
ocean
food being prepared and served.
“I was raised in a fun and food-loving
He for
and
helped up
everything
to
to
cuisines
cooking
by the hubbub of dishes, pots and pans
him
to
900
made
from
conversation even
Sunil
today,
does
marveling
caught
and
about
fresh
prepared
over
from
within
family with a never-ending love for food, spice and life. All my recipes today I
hours.
“Everything
was
fresh.
age
to
be
and making Indian food less intimidating,
and
to
learn
healthy and easy to cook, something
me
which is reflected in my restaurant.”
different
learned in that kitchen from her” he says. “It’s why I am passionate about cooking
to
I
was
at
exposed so
cooking ways
we a to
much.
fresh
cooked very all It
ripe of
this
exposed
seafood
all
around
also
came
in
the
globe.” And
#FINEDININGINDIAN | 32
the
world
to
him.
JUNE 2019
Food is our common ground, a universal experience. james beard
#FINEDININGINDIAN | Â 33
JUNE 2019
Over the years, Sunil had the privilege of cooking for the Duke of Edinburg and Queen Elizabeth during their historic visit to India in 1997, then President Bill Clinton on his Indian Visit, Prime Minister Pervez
“It’s where the family gathers. It’s where friends are brought to when they visit. It’s where we eat and talk and enjoy each other’s company.” In the Verandah
Musharraf of Pakistan, and Indian Prime
kitchen, Sunil continues his master skills
Ministers Atal Bihari Vajpayee and
at creating Indian dishes that both push
Manmohan Singh. Microsoft founder Bill
the envelope in their uniqueness and still
Gates has dined on Sunil’s creative fare, as has the Ambassador of Tunisia to India, Sabeer Bhatia (founder of Hotmail), and Vinod Dham (Intel, Founder of Pentium Chip). He also planned and hosted a cooking show for Miss India 2002.
pay homage to centuries of culinary history and Indian chefs. His Chef’s Table, reserved in advance for up to 10 people, allows for both he and his guests to be even more adventurous, and
His special talents in the culinary arts and sciences awarded him a special visa to
his tasting menus explore specific areas
come to the United States in 2005.
of Indian cuisine. Monthly dinners,
He promptly went to work in New York as
featuring menus on everything from a
executive chef at Tamarind, the first Indian restaurant on the Michelin recommended restaurant list and one of the top Indian restaurants in the city. After helping a friend open a restaurant in
night of curries to dining in ancient India during the time of Alexander the Great, offer yet another way to explore the cuisine Sunil so loves
Virginia, the family moved to San Francisco where he became executive chef at Amber. It became the only Indian restaurant in Zagat’s Top 100 Restaurants in the Bay Area for 12 years.
Outside the kitchen, Anupama continues her own unique talents in hospitality, with an uncanny knack for remembering faces and names and a flair for making
The Great W’Kana Café was another step toward the couple’s plans of opening a
guests feel like they have come home again. (And one cannot mention
special restaurant like no other inside the Loop. That dream came to be in November, 2018 when they opened the doors to Verandah.
Anupama without acknowledging her incredible fruit jams and preserves which she occasionally sells at the restaurant. The marmalade is exceptional).
The name, like everything else this couple
Away from the restaurant, Anupama and
involve themselves in, has meaning, too. “Back home, the veranda is the place
her mother tend to a large home garden
where everyone is entertained,” he
from which the restaurant gets a lot of
explains.
fresh produce.
#FINEDININGINDIAN | 34
JUNE 2019
CLICK TO BUY FROM AMAZAON
Ingredients · 100 g plain Flour · 30g potato flour · 60g water · 5g salt · 3g sugar · 4g baking powder · 3g Turmeric powder · 5g Oil · 30g Grated red Leicester cheese
· 5g Hemp seed
Method In a mixing bowl add in plain flour, potato flour, salt, sugar, baking powder and turmeric powder slowly mix in . Knead to a semi tight dough apply oil on top rest for an 1 hour Make two equal doughs of 40g size , fill with cheese on both . Flatten the dough with hemp seed cook in the tandoor were temperature at 350 -380c Cook till you get brown spots and lightly fluffed . Cut the bread and present on a wooden plate
#FINEDININGINDIAN | 36
JUNE 2019
Hemp Seeded Turmeric Naan | Red Leicester cheese RECIPE FROM BOBBY GEETHA
PREPARATION TIME 1 HR .15 MINUTES. COOKING TIME 10 MINUTES. SERVES 2
#FINEDININGINDIAN | 37
JUNE 2019
Ingredients
METHOD
To Finish
For Onion Tomato Masala
· 150g washed and dry Wild
·
Mix Mushroom
medium fire till light golden brown color.
· 50g onion tomato masala
·
· 20g Spring onion
add in chopped Tomato .
· 20g salted Enoki
·
Mushroom
seasoning remove.
· 3g Mustard seed
· 10 g mustard oil
For Salted Enoki Mushroom
· 3g chopped green chilli
·
· 4g chopped coriander
add salt and green chilli.
· 1no. lemon wedge
·
· 2g Red Amaranth cress
· 2g coriander cress
To Finish
·
For Onion Tomato Masala
required to remove pungency from mustard oil
· 50g chopped onion
·
· 50g chopped tomato
wild mix mushrooms
· 30g plain Veg or seed oil
·
· 2g turmeric powder
masala and spring onions .
· 5g red chilli powder
·
· 3g salt
mushroom add green chilli and chopped
coriander.
For Salted Enoki Mushroom
·
· 50g enoki mushroom
with salted enoki mushroom
washed and dry
·
Heat oil sautéed onion for 10 minuted on
Add powdered spiced saute for 30 seconds
Cook till tomato is soft and mushy, check
Take 100ml boiling water remove from fire
Add enoki mushroom allow to cool
Heat Mustard oil till it starts smoking, its
Add mustard seeds allow to crackle, add in
Sauté for 2 minutes add salt , onion tomato
Once the mixture is nicely coated around
Finish with lemon juice, plate in a bowl top
Garnish with coriander and amaranth cress.
· 20g salt · 100 ml water 3g chopped green chilli
#FINEDININGINDIAN | 38
JUNE 2019
Wild Mushroom Masala | Spring onion | Salted Enoki mushrooms RECIPE FROM BOBBY GEETHA
PREPARATION TIME 30 MINUTES. COOKING TIME 15 MINUTES. SERVES 2
#FINEDININGINDIAN | 39
JUNE 2019
Method 1.Wash
cucumber using a small size melon ball
scooper, make 10-12 balls. Cut all remaining cucumber and marinate with lemon juice, salt, mint,
Ingredients
green chili and black salt. Keep refrigerated for 1
· 200g Cucumber
hour, although it is best to keep overnight.
· 2g Mint Leaf
2.Heat
the mustard oil in a pan just to smoking
· 1g Green Chilly Sliced
point, then remove the pan from heat & add onion
· 5g Fresh Lemon Juice
seed. Toss cucumber balls in pan, and season with
· 1g Black Salt · (Kalanamak)
black salt and lemon juice. Keep on side till serving.
3.In
a heavy duty blender, blend the marinated mix
to a fine smooth puree. Taste and adjust with
Garnish
seasoning. Pass through a chinois that has medium
· 2no. Baby Radish
to fine mesh.
· 1g Onion Seed
4.
it’s recommended that you chill before serving.
· 3g Mustard Oil
5.
Spoon melon balls to center of a bowl, thinly
· 2g Lemon Juice
slice and cut baby radish to thin julienne. Place on
· 1g Black Salt
top of the melon balls
Chef’s Tip: For keeping the color nice and strong, be sure to use cucumber skin & lemon juice. Chilled cucumber soup can be poured in front of the guest, around the garnish placed on bowl plate for added class and to adhere to the culture.
#FINEDININGINDIAN | 40
JUNE 2019
CUCUMBER | ONION SEED AND RADISH - CHILLED SOUP RECIPE FROM INDIAN CUISINE EVOLUTION COOK BOOK
PREPARATION TIME 10 MINUTES. SERVES 1
#FINEDININGINDIAN | Â 41
JUNE 2019
ANCHOVIES | GUNPOWDER | TOMATO RECIPE FROM INDIAN CUISINE EVOLUTION COOK BOOK
PREPARATION TIME 10 MINUTES. RESTING TIME 5 HRS COOKING TIME 10 MINUTES. SERVES 4
#FINEDININGINDIAN | 42
JUNE 2019
Method 1.
Marinate
anchovies,
Ingredients
best
Heat
probe 150C
· 15g Gun Powder
3.
· 10g Shallots Fine Chopped · ½ Lemon Juice
the
to to
160C
sticking
Drain
· Oil to Fry
in
a
to
a
see
the
temperature
temperature
to
get
oil
best
between
results.
is
hot,
drop
in
making
sure
that
they
oil
Fry
settles
on
hot
to
a
until
and
the
the
the
place
kitchen
for
aren’t
bubbling
anchovies
towel
and
keep
usage.
Salad 1.
Peel
and
2.Remove shape.
cut
the
The
button
outer
Tomato Without Seed
chopped
tomato,
· 5g Chaat Masala
leaf
Chaat
· 0.5g Finely Chopped Coriander
3.Taste
Leaf
Plating
it
finely
and
needs
1.Ensure place plate.
chopped
and
the
the Fill
2.Arrange of
the
the
best
half.
of
a
cup
onion
can
with
juice,
coriander
masala. seasoning
if
you
feel
taste.
anchovies
with
crispy
onion,
in
get
mixed
lemon
cup-shaped it
to
part
and
adjust
more
onions
layer
remaining
be
#FINEDININGINDIAN | 43
minutes
Use
· 2no. Fine Chopped Baby Plum
· ½ Lemon Juice
Keep
crispy.
4.
· 2 No. White Button Onion
30
together.
of
· 1g Salt
for Onion Tomato Salad
the
anchovies
effect
oil.
adjust
Once
are
for
oil.
for
results.
· 100g Anchovies Fresh Cleaned · 2g Curry Leaf Fresh
ingredients
except
refrigerated
2.
for Anchovies
all
as
are
onion
onion fried
shown
aesthetic
hot,
then
flake
tomato
a
salad.
anchovies in
on
on
picture,
top
for
results.
JUNE 2019
CLICK TO BUY FROM AMAZAON
Sardine | coconut | tomato curry RECIPE FROM BEYOND CURRY
COOK BOOK
PREPARATION TIME 10 MINUTES. RESTING TIME 5 HRS COOKING TIME 10 MINUTES. SERVES 4
#FINEDININGINDIAN | 45
JUNE 2019
Ingredients
Method Clean,
cut,
wash,
and
drain
fish.
400 g Sardine / Mackerel
Coconut paste
Grind
all
smooth
ingredients
mentioned
coconut
paste.
drumstick,
scrape
to
a
100 g grated coconut
15 g chili powder 10 g coriander powder 3 g turmeric powder
To finish 30 mL coconut oil 1 g fenugreek seed 3 g mustard seeds 20 g garlic, sliced 15 g ginger, sliced 2 sprigs curry leaves
Take and
cut
split
into
all
5-cm
pieces
skin,
long
in
wash,
batons,
half
by
then
length.
To
finish
the
sauce,
thick-bottom
heat
oil
in
a
saucepan.
Add it
fenugreek
turns
golden
ingredients one,
2 slit green chilies
50 g sliced shallots
Add
1 medium-sized tomato,
minute.
cut in quarters
give
1 drumstick
seasoning.
50 g cocum(tamarind)
soaked in water
Add
200 mL fish stock/water
soaked
Salt to taste
Bring
coconut
the
fish
Slide
low
a
in
add one
or
boil;
by
for
water
a
and
check
fish.
leaves
water
remove and
heat.
sauté
curry
with
lid,
amazing
and
stock
one
boil,
then
until
between.
remaining
a
wait
drumstick
paste
sauce
with
very
retain
in
cocum
to
cover on
Add
and
brown,
until
sautéing
the
seeds
soaked
from
allow
This
helps
texture
and
and
in.
heat,
cooking the
fish
flavor.
Check
consistency
minutes
to
a
semi
of
sauce
thick
after
30
pouring
stage.
#FINEDININGINDIAN | 46
JUNE 2019
Spiced Lamb and basmati rice biryani cooked in casserole (Lamb biryani) RECIPE FROM INDIAN CUISINE EVOLUTION COOK BOOK
PREPARATION TIME 30 MINUTES. COOKING TIME 1 HOUR . SERVES 6
#FINEDININGINDIAN | 47
JUNE 2019
For the rice 400 g basmati rice 20 g cinnamon 10 g cloves 10 g cardamom 5 g black pepper Salt to taste.
For lamb 500 g lamb, boneless
15 g coriander powder
100 g clarified butter
15 g garam masala powder
150 mL neutral oil
15 g fennel powder
250 g onions, sliced
1 g saffron
150 g tomatoes, chopped
50 mL milk
15 g ginger, sliced
200 mL yogurt
20 g garlic, sliced
20 g mint leaves, chopped
6 green chilies
15 g coriander leaves, chopped
5 g turmeric powder
Salt to taste.
15 g red chili powder
Method Wash rice gently until the water becomes clear. Soak rice for 30 minutes. Drain and set aside. Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed pan. Add one-fourth of the sliced onions and fry them until they become golden in color and crisp in texture. Remove the onions in a paper towel and keep for garnish. Clean and cut the lamb into 50 g pieces. Wash and drain well. Grind the ginger, garlic, and green chilies in a food processor until it becomes a coarse paste.
#FINEDININGINDIAN | 48
JUNE 2019
Heat fry
oil
in
a
thick
until
it
and
fry
for
Add
all
powdered
Add
the
bottom
becomes a
Add
the
spices;
half
and
translucent.
minute.
curd,
pan
of
Add
remaining
the
ginger
tomatoes;
sauté
mint
add
until
leaves,
sauté
the
and
oil
sliced
garlic
until
starts
coriander
onions;
chili
paste
softened.
to
separate.
leaves.
Now or
add
lamb
mutton
the
stock
mutton
is
Frequently to
the
pieces until
and it
mix
well.
covers
Season
lamb,
and
with
cook
salt,
over
pour
low
water
heat
until
tender.
check
bottom
of
to
prevent
the
pan.
the
If
masala
needed,
from
add
burning
more
and
water
or
sticking
lamb
stock. The
lamb
Boil
rice
cent
masala along
should
with
all
have
some
whole
thick
spices
gravy
and
salt,
when until
cooked.
it
is
60
per
cooked.
If
you
want
before
to
discard
adding
to
whole
water.
spices,
Drain
and
tie
them
reserve
in
cheesecloth
rice.
Preheat Grease of
the
the an
oven
to
165
ovenproof
lamb
masala
°C.
casserole
and
layer
with
half
clarified
of
the
butter.
part-cooked
Spread rice
half
over
it. Pour
2
tbsp.
onions,
mint,
remaining Spoon
of
and
rice
around
clarified
coriander
and 50
butter
on
top
leaves.
and
sprinkle
Repeat
the
some
step
fried
with
lamb.
mL
saffron-soaked
warm
milk
on
top
of
biryani
rice. Place oven
greaseproof for
shape.
20
minutes.
Serve
#FINEDININGINDIAN | 49
paper
equal
over
Check
amounts
rice
and
whether of
rice
close
rice and
is
the
lid;
cooked
bake
but
in
the
retaining
lamb.
JUNE 2019
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