THINK PIECES ǀ Chelsea Davis ǀ June 8, 2016
she was a skater boy: androgyny in contemporary skate culture From Supreme to Palace, the rising UK girl skate scene reject fashion's representation of boarding and take cues from men's street wear
We've all seen Ashish's ethereal and ultra feminine SS16 skateboarding take on womenswear, but is this what skater girls actually look like? Sure, it made the FROW all go 'Wow, skateboards.' and it looked cool in a fashion context, but the real skater girls don't give a shit. They're too busy buying boys clothes to pay attention to the 'fake skate' 90's complex of the catwalk. Graduating from the angst ridden adolescent years spent playing Tony Hawk on the ps2 and lusting over a fresh pair DC sneakers, a new generation of skaters has evolved: the UK girls. Trading consoles for real boards, the latest wave of female skaters are transforming the UK skate scene, one kick-flip at a time. With skating veteran Lucy Adams raking in the championship titles around the
UK and skilled newcomers like Zeta Rush adding a feminine flair to her board with hot pink wheels, the home-grown girls are revolutionising the world of skateboarding: shredding alongside the boys. And with model/skater Natalie Westling landing the role of brand ambassador for Vans, girl skater style is fast becoming a favourite among fashion's elite. But how to the real skater girls feel about this? As skate apparel has seen a revival in contemporary culture, the core skater girls can't help but feel exploited when brands like Ashish come along and capitalise on their passion. 'It's not real', says skater and shop assistant at Soho's Palace Skateboards, Rachel Hewitt, 'I don't know one girl who wears all that glitter, sequins and flowy shit. We wear urban streetwear, not all that fem 'lardy dah' stuff.' With fashion houses cashing in on the genuine cool aesthetic of the skater girls, you can't walk down the street without seeing skating inspired gear. But the recent influx of the fashionable skater barely scratches the surface of what the community actually wears. To the die-hard boarders, the runway version of the skater is a poser. Nothing but an imitation of a subculture. The bona fide boarder takes no bullshit and dresses for purpose. Influenced by the menswear roots of the sport, men's streetwear labels like Palace, Supreme and Huf have become the go to for the skater girls.
'Women are starting to get the same recognition as men, but skating is a hard industry to break into in general. UK speaking some of the top male pros still have to hold down full time jobs, or do something else as well as skate,' says 29 year old semi-pro skater, Kirsty Tonner. The Sheffield
native, who writes for boarding bible, Girl Skate UK, and is the self proclaimed 'dezzy driver' for the Jams and competitions all over the country recalls how 'it’s going in the right direction though, with some of our best UK girls such as Josie Millard and Zeta Rush getting on shop teams and getting product flow.' Fuelled in a world where women have to push to achieve the same credit as their male equivalents, the girl skaters have had to persevere for respect. Something fashion brands have skipped over. 'Those high fashion brands just don't get it. We've had to work to get to this point and their 'skater girl' is so un-relatable it pisses us off,' continues Hewitt, 'We started wearing men's threads to fit in at first, but now it's part of our culture.' Staying comfortable on the ramps while still looking fresh is a skill that the UK girls have mastered. And their secret weapon; mixing classic menswear shapes with streetwear. With a lack of purely dedicated womenswear skate brands in the UK (with the exception being Rogue Skateboards), the badass boaders have opted for urban men's streetwear brands. Whether these rad ladies are keeping stray hairs away with a HUF snapback or a looking cool in Stussy gear, the new-gen of women skaters giving a twist to 'borrowing from the boys'. 'All t-shirts and tops I wear are usually men's or just the regular unisex sizes. I don’t think I own one piece of women's skate clothing,' continues Tonner, 'I think menswear is pretty popular for most women at the minute.' Typically spotted in baggy ripped jeans and men's Nike garms, part of the skate crew pack of Girl Skate UK, Romy Haynes, explains how 'menswear is popular in women's skateboarding because it's comfortable and there is generally a wider range of it than womenswear in skateboarding,' says the Derby based skater, 'I do tend to incorporate menswear into my style because again there is just a wider range, a lot of big skate companies don't even sell women's clothing.' With brands who established themselves as dedicated skate stores, like Palace, becoming more popular as general streetwear, the skate scene is having its moment in fashion once again.
Trailing the 90's fashion revival, skate wear is making waves off the ramps, encouraging the poser fad that pisses off those who live and breathe boarding. 'You see people that don't even skate wearing brands like Thrasher and Nike' continues Haynes. Style is important, but so is comfort. Instead of squeezing into tight jeans that you just want to burn, menswear balances urban flair and comfort.' With comfy style constantly reigning supreme with skate park attire, certain menswear labels have brand power over the rest. 'Palace, Thrasher, Vans, Nike etc. All of the girls who skate or are interested in skateboarding will buy items from their favourite companies,' says online marketing manager at Slam City Skates, Jake Sawyer, 'some clothing we sell is specifically made and for men, but things like Tshirts, hats and sweaters come in small sizes and sell to men and women alike.' 'Style has always been a key part of skateboarding from the Punk influences of the 80's, Hip Hop in the 90's etc and now is no exception, the clothes you wear are a big part of the culture as a whole, but no one style defines a skateboarder,' explains Sawyer, 'you still find a wide range of styles even within groups of skateboarders in the same city. There's been a rise in the number of girls taking part in skateboarding as a whole, finding themselves their own identity within what has been traditionally a very male orientated activity.' It is this sense of a 'male dominated sport' that has lead to girls banding together at skate parks, simultaneously building confidence and board skills.
Following in the footsteps of pioneering boarders Stef Nurding and Josie Miller, UK's new generation of skaters are putting female boarders on the map, but it's not a carbon copy of Ashish's version of a skater....these girls are tough as nails and don't wear pretty frills and flowers. 'Girl Skate Sessions' have stirred up a debate about whether they disrupt the normalisation of women in a sport that has so long been ruled by men. And all the while this sounds like the perfect remedy for those intimidating exclusive skate environments that are full of tatted up, supped up and tricked up boarders, the UK girl skaters have voiced their disapproval. One step forward, and two steps back for feminism in sports? Brighton based boarder, Wings Chan, also advocates the normalisation of women into the skating world through fashion. Just as much as skate wear has become a cornucopia of unisex garments prompted by androgyny, skating skill is not defined to gender.The selftaught skater and men's skatewear enthusiast believes 'girls are getting there. It was a niche market and now it is growing. More and more girls are getting into it and more are really shredding. I personally see skateboarding as an escape from reality. It's definitely a sort of therapy for me and for some others.'
'Streetwear in its current form draws a lot on skate culture and skate style,' says Steve Slocombe, editor-in-chief of Complex UK to the Guardian. But according to the core skaters of the UK scene, fashion houses have missed the mark and created a phony version of a skater wannabe. Why? Because there's no men's streetwear and there is an air of pretentiousness. As Hewitt quite rightly explains, the new wave of skater girls are 'not sexualising the sport like the fashion industry. We're in menswear and street labels because we choose to be. We've worked so hard for the recognition, and people who don't understand our culture have ripped it off.'
Text Chelsea Davis All images copyright Stef Nurding, Kirsty Tonner & Rianne Evans Instagram
Topics: think pieces, culture, fashion, menswear, skateboarding
London, 25 May, 2016
0 SHARES
0 COMMENTS
BY CHELSEA DAVIS MAY 16, 2016 12:45
OP - ED
Op-Ed
Women on Top
Gender equality has been a hot topic in the fashion industry over the last few years. Now that we have seen a financial and cultural boom in the menswear sector, Chelsea Davis argues, where are all the women working in menswear?
Clara Martin SS16 Lookbook
Source: Clara Martin
LONDON, United Kingdom- In the corporate world of British fashion companies, we are dealing with a major gender imbalance. All it takes is a quick scan of retail businesses to see that women climb the ranks up to a particular level, and then suddenly a gap develops where it becomes extremely male dominated in the upper echelons. According to market research firm, Euromonitor, sales in the menswear sector grew by 1.9 percent to $408.4 billion in 2015, showing that we are beyond the stereotype of men swearing off shopping. In fact, the menswear industry is marginally expanding at a higher rate than womenswear, which grew 1.6 percent to $625.9 billion. Men are becoming more fashion forward and more concerned with their appearance - but this doesn't mean that only men can work in the menswear industry. Director of Women in Retail, Fiona Johnson-Davis explains how "85 percent of board roles are held by men" while a staggering "90 percent of all retail purchase decisions are made by women." Since the majority
of those running retail business are male, they are not the sole deciders of purchase decisions. The question arises- "are men best informed to run said businesses and make decisions on behalf of the customer, or are businesses where there is a stronger gender balance more likely to be successful?" Verdict's report 'Importance of Fashion in Menswear' in late 2015 details that female influence is important for the menswear industry to thrive. Brands need to target females when marketing their collections, as they purchase for their partners. Of the ÂŁ1.8 billion menswear online spend, 14.3% are purchases bought by women. With women having a strong influence on retail purchasing, there is no reason as to why the menswear industry should be male dominated. A study conducted by the McKinsey Global Institute found that the worldwide economy could add $12 trillion in growth by 2025 if countries met 'best-in-region' scores for improving women's participation in the labour force.
"
Women offer a different approach in leadership style- we ask different questions and tackle issues in a different manner
"
Despite the 40 percent drop in women holding chief executive positions in retail in 2015, there are signs that the industry is being penetrated by women. Both the finance structure of Selfridges and Harvey Nichols are run by women and LC:M has had more women menswear designers than ever before with some shiny rising stars being Clara Martin and Wales Bonner. What has very often happened in the past is that women haven't had many role models of their own gender, in menswear especially. To combat this, companies like Women in Retail and
Mentor MatcHER aim to support up and coming creatives as well as established women in the retail sector to promote a positive image for independent working women.
Although there have been advances to equality, there is more room to grow - "women offer a different approach in leadership style - we ask different questions and tackle issues in a different manner. This, by all means doesn't mean better" continues Johnson-Davis, only that women offer perspectives that could work better in certain environments. Reaching an equilibrium is not only the right choice for the menswear, but also the smart choice.
PAUSE MEETS: THE UNISEX MODE June 15, 2016 Interviewers: Chelsea Davis // @chelseadavis23 Photography and Styling: Juice Gee & Kitty Cowel// @juicegee // @kittycowell
Feeding into the gender fluidity movement that is taking over the industry by storm, we at PAUSE chat to the women behind The Unisex Mode. Rooted in unisex street and sportswear, the self appointed 'creative collective' composed of Kitty Cowell and Juice Gee talk menswear, gender bending and everything in between.
Just to start, can you tell us a bit about yourselves? Juice : I run Small Feet Big Kicks - an online sneaker store for girls, as well as working on a few other sportswear related projects. My style is tomboyish with an occasional girly flair - I like most things oversized, and I never leave the house without trainers on! me: #staycozy #everydaycozy Kitty : My personal style is tomboy meets barbie! Trainers and camo and ripped jeans and baggy tees but with cute hair or make up or a cute girly bag.
How did you two meet? We met through mutual sneaker head girl mates and through the sneaker festival Crepe City!
What inspired The Unisex Mode? Juice : Wanting to have a platform to showcase the voices and styles of women who like to dress down, who are into menswear and streetwear. Kitty : The lack of unisex culture being represented. Everything sneaker and streetwear related was from a men's point of view back then (3 years ago!). What are your fashion influences? Juice : Growing up hip hop and the 90s influenced me... from pedal pushers and crop tops to the likes of Gwen Stefani and TLC - who were all about women dressing comfortably and in oversized clothing and making it cool and sexy. Now - I'm less influenced by pop culture but more but street culture. It's more organic and fast paced people are always trying to outdo each other and challenge the way in which they wear things, which I find interesting. It's cool to see how someone styles things differently to you. Kitty : Japanese pop culture and street style has always been a major influence to me. Pharrell Williams, Nigo and Gwen Steffani really inspired me growing up. And hip hop, UK grime and punk rock! That combo is kind of me...
What brands could you not live without? Juice : Nike is probably my fave as I pretty much rock it in some way shape or form every day. They are so innovative - and are always pushing boundaries, which I don't always agree with but I can understand their reasoning behind it - it's inspiring. Kitty : I love Nike because they are so progressive, they have so many aspects to the brand so they keep me constantly interested. Also, Stussy because I love the way it crosses the line between skate/rock culture and hip-hop and streetwear and I've been wearing it since I was a kid. Are we beyond the era of gender blurring and heading towards totally unisex fashion? Juice : I think it's great that unisex fashion is so much more available and less of a taboo nowadays. But I think it will be a while before becoming completely unisex. Kitty : I think it's happening but I do feel we will always have men's and womenswear. BUT there will be a lot more unisex fashion available. People want unisex designs, clothing that can be worn by either sex but in their own way and that isn't going away, it's just growing. How important is LC:M for your career? LC: M is my favourite - as it's more me. It's important because it's so inspiring and eye opening. It allows you to see menswear in such a different light - and shows how menswear can be so versatile.
Do you think more women are becoming more interested in wearing menswear brands? Juice : Definitely. That's become massively apparent in the last few years. Women are forever buying into male clothing and streetwear so brands are reciprocating by creating a lot more unisex collections. Kitty : The brands are starting to make better women's collections too but women are still buying the men's fits a lot of the time which just goes to show the need for unisex collections.
What is the appeal of menswear for women? Oversized fits, relaxed, comfortable, isn't skin tight - you can create different looks and layered affects with menswear that you might not be able to achieve with womenswear. For me, the appeal of menswear is the functionality and practicality - I'm always on the move and rushing around so wearing loose fitting clothing is ideal.
Do you get a reaction from the public when wearing menswear? I used to - everyone used to rip me for 'dressing like a boy' and now I've made a career out of it people want to know. It's good to have criticism around you - it makes you more assured that you're doing what you want - and feels even better when you achieve your goals for sticking to what you want/wear what you want.
INTERVIEWS
Harmony Boucher 5/18/2016 by CHELSEA DAVIS
Text by Chelsea Davis Images by Beauty Papers SS16
From Alessandro Michele's ultra feminine men's collection to Zara's unisex line, fashion has turned down a path that no longer pins menswear against womenswear. And the model at the forefront of the gender revolution? Harmony Boucher. Taking fashion inspiration from her father and prizing her vintage menswear suits, Boucher has long been an advocate for genderless fashion ."It's not necessarily unisex fashion anymore. People are feeling more comfortable to wear whatever they want, the line is completely blurred. I feel a lot more comfortable wearing boys clothes. We are in a moment of fashion that is united, we are beyond gender lines which makes fashion that much more interesting."
As the self proclaimed polite punk/femme tomboy, the model and musician is releasing a unisex clothing line at the end of May - Blanco. " The inspiration has come from the rapper and streetwear scene- that whole gangster aesthetic. I've always been an advocate for strong women, so we wanted to create something that explored the pop culture of being a strong woman in a man's world, but also the trappings of fame. It's more about the vibe of the label and what we can bring on board to the fashion industry," she explains. " We put Griselda Blanco on the t-shirts, who was the godmother for the Mexican cartels back in the 80s. Basically she's a boss lady surrounded by all these gangster men, and the women was in control of the situation. We want to empower women - celebrating the women in a man's world."
Spending her career breaking down the gender boundaries, the Australian born model has become a fast favourite for androgynous editorials such as Steven Meisel's 'Girls & Boys' shoot. " I've always been obsessed with masculine and androgynous fashion. There's stuff where it's very feminine, but when you wear the jacket it's unisex. I think I've always been drawn to stuff like Givenchy and Gareth Pugh, stuff where it's more crazy fashion- that isn't obvious if it was meant for a girl or a boy." As for her mission through Blanco, "I want people to learn about strong women in the world and hopefully it will motivate them to break down society's barriers." Follow Harmony's journey on Instagram @harmonyboucher
6 Dapper Ladies Who Will Make You Want To Shop In The Menswear Section It's time to buckle down and suit up. posted on May 16, 2016 at 5:07 p.m.
Chelsea Davis BuzzFeed Contributor, UK
1. First let's look at suited ladies throughout history. Marlene Dietrich- the original dapper woman. The actress had a penchant for menswear and helped redefine women's fashion in the 1930s by making trousers mainstream. Phew, thanks Marlene!
Instagram: @tdi1909
2. Pioneer in androgynous fashion, Oscar award winning actress Katharine Hepburn wore men's jackets and trousers in a time when it was seen as unorthodox.
Instagram: @agelessandmindfull
3. Woody Allen's cult classic character, Annie Hall played by Diane Keaton epitomised the 'boyfriend' look of the 70s by wearing men's work trousers, ties and suit vests.
Instagram: @instaqualcuno
4. Now for the modern ladies. Fashion Director at Esquire Singapore, Janie Cai can always be found wearing a men's tailored jacket.
Instagram: @janiecai
5. Menswear enthusiast Cristina Popirta takes cues from her men's fashion designer boyfriend Florin Dobre and knows how to rock a three-piece suit with class.
Instagram: popirtaccristina
6. And who would have thought an all white suit could be so stylish? Stylebop's Fashion Director, Leila Yavari knows a thing or two about how to pull of this get up.
Instagram: ptheurbanspotter
LC:M Designers to watch out for this season With the men's fashion season upon us, a new crowd of designers are shaking up the traditional suited and booted menswear aesthetic. Chelsea Davis selects the collections to watch out for. CHELSEA DAVIS Wednesday 1 June 2016
0 comments
LC:M takes place 10-13 June. (londoncollections.co.uk)
As all eyes gravitate to the British capital ahead of the Spring/Summer '17 instalment of London Collections: Men, the pressure to churn out a creative cohort of collections is well and truly on. Synonymous with a mix of Savile Row house tailoring and edgy East London sportswear silhouettes, the biannual showcase takes place next weekend, 10-13 June. In its fifth year on the global menswear calendar, LC:M has built up a reputation blending classic British menswear with the up and coming modern feel of the new generation; making it a must see for buyers, designers and the upper echelons of the elite. With the menswear market growing exponentially faster than womenswear (expected to reach an expansion of 22 per cent in the next four years),LC:M is quickly becoming the launching platform for new designers and labels. For this season, we focus on the female designers giving an edge to traditional menswear shapes
Known for her urban athletic vibe, Danish designer Astrid Andersen has become a household name during LC:M. Her take on modern sportswear flaunts with proportions and gives a sense of brute aggression to the runways which are usually filled with androgynous, ethereal collections. Andersen's sporty and refined approach to menswear adds a sense of youth to a weekend that is full of British tailoring. After launching the brands first menswear capsule collection last year, Phoebe English MAN has already made waves within the community with its structured lines and minimal colour tones. Focusing on forgotten artisan techniques and relaxed shapes, English brings a new edge to the usually quirky and colourful ethos of the young London designer. Taking inspiration from her boyfriend's personal style, English is one to watch for wearable garments with a ....twist.
Phoebe English Man AW16/17. (phoebeenglish.com)
Launching her first menswear collection in January, Wales Bonner has gone from relatively unknown designer to advocate for cultural shift within the fashion industry seemingly overnight. With an underlying themes of cultural identity and black male representation, Bonner has become a figure for change in the fashion sphere. Weaving both hand couture techniques and historical African craft in her designs, she is able to communicate political struggle and racial narratives from the seams of her work. As a recipients of the Topman sponsored Newgen Men programm e for S/S17 season, Phoebe English and Wales Bonner have both received support to create a presentation or show during next week's LC:M .
Lou Stoppard wearing Craig Green Menswear. LC:M SS17
Want to get all the insider info about one of menswear's most major events? Well then, keep 10th-13th June free on your calendar for London Collections: Men SS17. Shine your brogues, iron your tailored trousers and borrow your boyfriends oversized denim jacket because the season of menswear is upon us.
Pinstripe Cigarette Trousers, TOPSHOP, ÂŁ25. Visit topshop.com
The bi-annual fashion event first showcased in 2012, and has quickly gained international attention in the menswear community. Coupled with the economic spike in the menswear industry, LC:M is a force to be reckoned with among the fashion conscious. But don't fret ladies, LC:M is as much for women as it is for men. Follow these simple tips to get the most out of one of London's most stylish weekends.
Head on over to Victoria House or 180 Strand to see all the LC:M happenings. If you get lost on the way, no need to worry...just follow the breadcrumb trail of dapper gents and you'll be there in no time. If you're one of the lucky ones and have invitations to the shows and presentations, you'll be able to get into the venues and swoon over the industry's latest IT men. If not, you'll be able to catch a glimpse of the spruced up menswear lovers flocking around London in droves.
36
Above: Margaret Zhang, Right: Rainy Milo outside Victoria House
To look the part, update your wardrobe with some menswear inspired basics like soft tailored trousers (Topshop) and a crisp white shirt (Cos). Menswear is all about looking effortlessly sharp, so stick to a minimal colour palette and classic shapes. A fresh pair of trainers is a goto for a classic look. Get inspired by looking in the menswear sections of Whistles and Zara for the basic essential pieces. Mix them in with your personal style, and you're LC:M ready.
Fashion Week
As LC:M is still relatively up and coming outside of the menswear bubble, you will need to brush up on the men who set street style photographers into a fashion induced frenzy: Oliver Cheshire, Tinie Tempah, Jim Chapman and of course David Gandy. Ladies, keep your eyes peeled.
The menswear market is on the rise - but who is behind closed doors? Chelsea Davis reports on the women who are pioneering in the menswear industry, and the bias they face in this, a 'man's world.'
S
aturating the AW16 runways of Alessandro Michele's new and improved Gucci to the ever-innovative J.W. Anderson, gender ambiguity is once again a hot topic. Genderless beings stand side-by-side with windswept hair and flowy silhouettes, making it difficult to decipher who is who. For an industry traditionally run by men in suits, women are wearing brogues and borrowing from the boys in more ways than one. So, while the trends and merchandise of the fashion industry have already been a product of gender-bending, are women still struggling for equality in the developed world of fashion? With celebrities like Emma Watson and Tom Hardy promoting feminism in the performing arts, the girl power movement has finally reached men's fashion. But why now? Go back 15 years. Finding a woman working in menswear would be like finding a needle in a haystack. A rare and impressive feat. Now, women are in the driving seat; giving menswear a feminine attitude. Image source: WhoWhatWear Instagram
S
According to market research company, Mintel, the menswear industry has grown by 4.5% in 2014 to reach ÂŁ13.5 billion, outpacing that of womenswear. With forecasts that the men's clothing market will grow by 22% in the next four years to reach ÂŁ16.5 billion, it's no wonder creative minds are flocking to be a part of fashions rising big business. With a handful of the most talked about collections from January's London Collections: Men emerging from the minds of Lou Dalton, Wales Bonner and Astrid Andersen to name a few, women are giving the London's menswear scene a breath of fresh air. From YSL's 'Le Smoking' suit to Chanel's tailored trousers, menswear has always had an influence on womenswear. But now, women are taking it one step further by shopping directly for menswear. Looking around the streets of London, it's clear that menswear isn't just for men. You'll see a 20something year old girl in Topman, no boyfriend in tow, trying on bomber jackets and loose fitting tees because the fit is more flattering. Or a quirky gal shopping in the men's sections of Dalston's vintage stores for classic pieces. The new wave of menswear isn't reserved for just men, and this notion has filtered up through the menswear industry rungs. "The menswear industry is changing, the customer is changing, and there is more creativity than ever before", says Carri Munden, who is no stranger to menswear with her 90's rave techno influenced fashion label, Cassette Playa. Munden is a firm believer in the effortless sex appeal and modern feel that comes with women wearing menswear shapes, a trend much bigger than simply 'borrowing from your boyfriend.' The eccentric Cassette Playa designer gives an insight to the appeal of the booming menswear market and why we are seeing more women being drawn to the field. "I think people are more intrigued by women working in the menswear industry than anything else. I like the limitations within menswear- the shapes are more simple but it is about your choice of fabric or placement of print or something being well cut. "
"When I started working more in streetwear than in high fashion, being a female designer doing menswear was totally unique" explains the former 'Best Menswear Designer' nominee at the British Fashion Awards in 2007, "the only prejudice I have encountered was people, usually men, taking me less seriously on the business side."
There's an undeniable audience for women wearing menswear; you only need to look at the streets to know that. "I definitely see more women taking interest in wearing vintage, denim, and men's shapes, but these women are still a minority group of rad ladies who proudly take life by the scruff of the neck per se' describes Yates, 'I would say they are mostly from Japan, the UK and the States."
"Some editors only want men in the top jobs" says GQ Style & Grooming editor Jessica Punter. The tightly knit menswear community may be supportive of each other within the industry, but there is undoubtedly a gender divide for women rising in the ranks. Why can't women know what men want just as much as they themselves do? Men have been designing, writing and styling women for decades without an inch of enquiry about their ability. But when women take the role, its seen as forward thinking and progressive. Powerhouse male womenswear designers such as Galliano and Tom Ford are often called out for fetishising women and projecting their ego into their collections, but this doesn't seem to be the case for women menswear designers. It's perfectly acceptable for men to act as peacocks in fashion, but like any feather flaring creature, there will always be a kingpin. Perhaps the
prejudice stems from men feeling intimidated by a successful women rivalling for their position as 'top dog', a feeling that menswear 'IT' girl and Ponytail Journal creator, Lauren Yates knows all too well. "I have experienced men who haven't quite made it in their field and make a pass of me because I somehow come across as a threat" says the former model. Named the 'Hottest Thing in Menswear' by GQ in 2014, the style guru and gender bender knows a thing or two about why ladies are being drawn to the men's fashion industry.
"As a female editor, there is less interest in what I wear personally," explains Punter, "whereas some of my peers get to select their 'edit' for various retailers or get featured in campaigns because they can wear the clothes they talk about." Sifting through social media's endless stream of off-duty models to the holy grail of street style influential's, women are giving traditional men's silhouettes a feminine update. "I think people are a little beyond sticking to the idea that a garment is bound by a singular sex, and that conversation is only widening thanks to the internet" says Yates. Thanks to menswear focusing on classic shapes and longevity, women have been able to find solace in the timelessness of menswear pieces, while womenswear tends to focus
on the high turnover of trends. The boom of urban sportswear has ushered in a new era concentrating on comfort and effortless style; a trend that menswear succeeds at. 'I wear at least 50% menswear and 50% womenswear, but some days I'll be wearing all menswear' says Munden, "I really like streetwear brands like Supreme and sportswear brands like Nike." With all the gender-blurring on the runway and on the streets, the menswear market has seen a rise in female menswear designers breaking though the gender divide. And it's about time. Out of the 129 showcased brands of last season's LC:M, 15% had a female designer or mixed gender design duo. With that number only set to increase, we have reached a point in fashion that is beyond defined sexual boundaries. Androgyny has had a place on the runway, so why are more women getting involved now? "Women can have a great perspective on menswear. We
would probably just need more women working in the menswear world in order to make menswear even more exciting and free," says creator of Fantastic Man, Gert Jonkers. With the surge of interest in the last decade, more women have wanted to be a part of menswear, or at least be in the know about the industry. According to Jonkers, Fantastic Man had such a large female print reach among their readers that The Gentlewoman was born as a comparable title. So it's not just wearing and working in menswear, women want to consume all aspects of the industry. The recent wave of feminism in pop culture has allowed for more women to reach for roles that were once considered traditionally 'all male'. Us ladies are taking charge. The dynamic shift of what was once a chiefly male oriented industry has now seen a boost in female influence. However, the relationship between women and menswear has always existed, but maybe never this visible. "It would be as
basic as the fact that women and men have never existed separate from one another" says Yates, "there are tones of women behind every major menswear operation, whether that's designing, pattern making, manufacturing, selling, or marketing. I could name every job title involved, but it's clear that men and women need one another to bounce thoughts and ideas off each other. It's that necessary balance between masculinity and femininity that goes into making a proper product." "We've seen a great surge in menswear in the last 10,15 years, and of course that's because people have interest in it," says Jonkers, "we don't want a world where genders are strictly segregated, thank god! Why wouldn't a man ever be interested in what women think or stand for?" With the industry growing faster than ever, women are finding their feet in menswear and giving the boys a run for their money.
WOMENSWEAR VS MENSWEAR
To a growing number of City chaps, the shopping scene has changed. Chelsea Davis chats with Dappad founder, Erika Nilsson-Humphrey about how to shop like a man in the modern world
DappadstylistsErika Nilsson-Humphrey,Ewa AndrieszandTineGreen
L
et's face it, shopping isn't what it used to be. Undoubtedly, we all want to look our finest. Yet, with work schedules and social calendars filled to the brim, it's hard to squeeze in any extra time. Gone are the days when you could spend a relaxing afternoon strolling the shops with the Mrs. like everything in the digital age, shopping has moved online. Time is precious enough, and the thought of traveling to Central London on the weekend is soul crushing in its own right - so this is where Dappad comes in. But does it really work? 15 ES MAGAZINE 26.05.16
Created in September of last year, the personal shopping service lets you be head-to-toe dapper without having to leave the comfort of your pad - hence the name, Dappad. So here's the lowdown- you fill out a brief questionnaire in which your personal style is deciphered, then you are paired with a stylist who tailors a box of clothes just for you. And the best part: all clothes are RRP and you only keep what tickles your fancy. The threads are chosen from a carefully curated selection of top menswear labels
like Sand Copenhagen, Gant, Eton and Tiger of Sweden. Notice the Scandi influence, as founder and native Swede Erika NilssonHumphrey stays true to her roots with brands who pride clean cuts and a minimal aesthetic- 'We are picky with the brands and recommendations that we make, because that is how we live our own lives,' says Dappad. 'We don’t work with brands because of the logos. We work with brands because of the quality, craftsmanship and design that the brands represent'- keeping to a high standard of style and accessible pricing.
by men that wanted to look good, but had no time nor desire to spend hours on the high street or online getting the right outfits. Not only do I want to give the Dappad customer an effortless shopping experience, but I also want to bring new and fresh brands to their wardrobes all with a slight Scandinavian touch.'
Left: A Dappad personal delivery. Left and Below: Examples of goodies from the tailored shopping boxes. Far right: A real customers personally styled Dappad box
'I travel every other week for business, so shopping is not my priority,' says first time online shopper and Chemical Engineer, Chris Davis. After a one-on-one phone call with a Dappad stylist, Davis was able to explain his hectic travel schedule, usual work place attire and need for comfortable yet stylish wardrobe updates. 'The stylist hit the nail on the head for the most part, I only had to return 2 items. There was an Eton business shirt, Orlebar Brown white tee, a few colourful pairs of London Sock co socks to jazz things up, and a great pair of J Lindeberg dark
Indeed, men of today appreciate fine tailoring and quality craftsmanship, but finding spare time is a rare gem. With the rise of new technological
wash jeans. It really saved me time and hassle, and I was pleasantly surprised by the selection,' continues Davis. Spending the last decade surrounded by City gents in a sales role on a bank trading floor, Nilsson-Humphrey knows what men want when it comes to effortless fashion. 'I found the whole shopping process tiresome and quite stressful. I thought there must be a better way,' says the former banker, 'I was at that point, surrounded
styling services, City chaps can spruce up their wardrobes in a click of the mouse. Staying true to British heritage brands like Belstaff and Barbour, the Dappad customer can expect a selection of classic items with a mix of alternative international labels. 'Change is coming on very quickly and strongly and the possibilities with technology opens up for new experiences. However we shouldn’t forget that clothes is about emotion and feeling good about yourself,' explains the styling guru, 'Men
16 ES MAGAZINE 26.05.16
want a service like this. The companies doing it are still very young and it is a new and and emerging concept. We stand out with the brands and personal touch that we bring to Dappad.' 'From just a short phone conversation, it was amazing how the stylist understood what I needed in my wardrobe,' added Davis. 'I'm from a different generation, so online shopping is a difficult thing to grasp. Although I did have to send back a few pieces from the box, the clothes matched what I needed. Not even my wife can compact my fashion taste into a box, so it's great what Dappad can do.' From finance to menswear, Nilsson-Humphrey has spent her career in traditionally male dominated industries - giving her a unique insight into understanding what men want 'The clothes that we provide are masculine but at the same time we dress the Dappad men the way women want to see them, which I think can only be a good thing!' Forging a successful career in menswear, Nilsson-Humphrey along with Dappad's 3 female personal stylists show that you don't have to be a man to work in a man's world -'I think any new comer has to prove themselves whether you are male or female. Of course some people have asked 'but why don’t you have any men?' We
17 ES MAGAZINE 26.05.16
shouldn’t forget that throughout the times women have been dressed in clothes primarily designed by men, and nobody has questioned that. Why should it be different with women dressing men?' Aided by online platforms, the modern man can still appreciate the comfort of their usual high quality threads all while experiencing emerging brands (Scandi digs in Dappad's case) without having to compromise time or taste. Fortunately, Dappad offers upmarket classic pieces and a selection of style surprises that you'd never considered before - making it seem like you've spent hours slaving away in the stores. With no add ons or hidden charges, it's worth a trial run.
Above: Garment Project shoes and Gant shirt . Below: A selection of Dappad's menswear edit
SUPA-STARS Us women were the ones who spotted the gap in the market for a new generation of models
JULY 2016 GQ 159
Supa models; Alijah Harrison, Sven de Vries, Otto Vainaste, Ezra Jolly, Sol Goss, Jackson Hale, Hunter Parkes and Marc-Andre Turgeon
In a cut-throat industry where faces struggle to stand the test of time, a new breed of male models has emerged. But without their female bookers pulling the strings, the industry's newcomers would still be behind a cash machine at Poundland or on their way to early morning university classes. The SUPA men are the poster boys for the new clan of male model STORY BY CHELSEA DAVIS
MALE MODELLING
STORY BY CHELSEA DAVIS
Images curtesey of Vogue Runway and Supa Model Management Instagram JULY 2016 GQ 160
Sven de Vries, Leo Topalov, Tobias Sorenson. Heard of any of these names? Odds are, probably not. They're not celebrities or footballers, yet you've seen them in magazines and billboards around the world. These social media kings are snagging editorials and ruling the runways. GQ meets the girl-power booking team behind one of London's most successful modelling agencies, Supa Model Management, who recognised a need for an army of new faces using the power of social media. tarting out as a male modelling agency in 2013, Supa Model Management represent a variety of the industry's top men including British bombshell Tom Barker, the face Hugo Boss Clement Chabernaud and Dior's Fall 16/17 campaign boy, Otto Vainaste. But behind the dapper exterior of the campaign cash-cows and the editorial kings are the Sagency bookers; and at Supa, they're an all-female men's desk
S
"We women were the ones who spotted the gap in the market for a new generation of models," says Head Booker of the Men's Board, Amelia Trevette. "While everyone was focusing on the powerhouse names, we were searching for new boys that we knew would shake up the industry." When you think male supermodel, David Gandy pops into the mind of many. But there is more to this industry than it's poster boy. Come 2016, there is an endless pool The Original Male Supermodel: David Gandy is often referred to as one of the pioneers of male modelling
JULY 2016 GQ 161
of young and photogenic boys giving the big wigs a run for their money, using social media as a catapult into the industry. 'When I grow up I want to be a male model'; not the usual sentence young boys would like to proclaim to the world as an awkward pre-pubescent teen. Except now, that doesn't seem to be the case. So what pushed this new breed into the spotlight? "There was a lull in the menswear industry. We just kept seeing the same faces over and over. Gandy was everywhere and that was all that people associated with the male model," explains Junior Men's booker Lauren Farrelley. "And then guy celebrities took over campaigns, so male model in a sense got pushed out. At the time no one else was really promoting up and coming boys because the bigger names just dominated the media. We spotted the gap and we made it work." "There was definitely a slope where male models were only celebs and the Gandy types; that needed to be changed. It really took off as we got obsessed with social media and the younger generation started to care about their appearance. More boys looked up to models as role models and wanted a career like that" continues Trevette. "It's a whole new generation of boys who want to be lusted after and want to do modelling. As bookers, we noticed the shift when we first started out this agency a few years back.
It's really picked up speed with the growth of social media."
MALE MODELLING
With boys now jumping on the selfie bandwagon and openly uploading amateur model shots without fear of being ridiculed, it has created the perfect storm to scout new faces. Posting modelesque images "would have been seen as a weird thing to do 5 years ago," continues Trevette. "In my generation, that would get a guy ridiculed, but now it's as normal as taking a food instagram shot." The idea of a man making his career out of being photogenic is a modern concept. To most fashion outsiders, it is hard to take seriously. The men are subject to mockery from the public and constantly compared to Zoolander's 'Blue Steel'. But now, it is all changing. As the menswear industry is quickly gaining momentum and social media building confidence, there has been a swell of interest for men to take pride in their appearance. It is this normalisation of the metrosexual in contemporary culture that is allowing male models to be viewed in the same league as celebrities. As fashion icons, if you will. Men want to be them and women want to be with them. And this is good news for men who make a living out of being attractive. "I'll have groups of fans waiting for me in airport terminals with posters saying 'Marry Me', it's like you're a celebrity," says Instagram royalty Reece King who has racked up over 339K followers.
Blue Steel: Ben Stiller aka Derek Zoolander has become the satirical face of male modelling since the release of Zoolander in 2001 "When I told my mates I had been signed, they all laughed and took the piss. That was over a year ago. But now they're like 'wow man you have the most amazing job. I wish I could be a model," continues King. "There's been this shift now and guys want to be a part of this industry, and I don't think that would have happened a few years ago." "Social media is everywhere and that's really helping male models," says 19 year-old Sol Goss who was
scouted at a Norwich bus stop. "More people can see what we do, and faster than ever before. There's more exposure and I would say that's really helping to push our careers, which then creates fans." With the aid of a social media presence, the landscape of modelling has changed, and the booking team at SUPA were quick to pick up on this feat. "We've started looking more on Instagram and social media for new faces," says Farrelley, "it's become an endless resource for us to search for new boys and so far it's been really successful." JULY 2016 GQ 162
But they're not just a pack of Zoolanders. "I left law school to do modelling full time so I hate when people expect me to be an airhead or talk down to me. But now I've earned enough to pay for my last year at law school 40 times over, so who's got the last laugh now," says Aussie model, Hunter Parkes who was scouted via Instagram. Goss agrees with the Zoolander effect saying �it really pisses me off when people assume I'm stupid because I stand in front of the camera all day. I mean, I'm not doctor, but it's not
the easiest job. When I was first scouted, I was embarrassed to tell all my mates because I thought they would just laugh. They did at first, but now they are my biggest fans." Although the menswear industry is a booming market today, a few years ago when male models were a 'dying breed' according to Trevette, there was a gap in which women had to pick up the slack and reinvent the industry. "I think that men have only really just gotten to the point where JULY 2016 GQ 163
they can openly say they care about fashion, where women have been doing that for ages. So it's only been women who have been making the campaigns and all that work" says Parkes. The women of Supa pack a punch when it comes to knowing what works in the menswear industry. Even though male modelling may be dominated by men on the surface, the women are the
ones making the industry thrive. "Most agencies have all women desks now," says Junior Men's Booker, Ama Samra, "women know what men want and can look at a male model and right away tell what type of work they'll get. I don't think other men will be able to tell that." It's the appreciation for beauty that women have been aware of their whole lives which give them the upper hand - "we grow up knowing what a good looking boy is. It's
easier to decipher when you're seeing it as an outsider. I think women have a good eye for seeing bone structure and photogenic features and that's why men's booking desks work best with a women team" explains Farrelley But does being a woman on the men's booking team have an impact on Supa? Samra says "I can't tell you how many times I have got people replying fast or doing a booking for me right away
when they think my name is Adam." Even though the modelling industry is regarded as a largely female driven business, when it comes to male modelling, it's not so straightforward for the women bookers. "I think they (designers) judge first and think we don't know much about menswear and how the clothes will look and fit on the boys," explains Farrelly. "We know just as much, if not more than them because we see the models and campaigns from a different
Women look at male models too. Menswear isn't just for men
angle, not just as consumers. Women look at male models too. Menswear isn't just for men." For the women working on the men's board, building a relationship with menswear is a must. According to Supa Director, Charlie Clark, a vast majority of employees in the modelling industry are women and gay men, with straight men taking roles such as graphic design and financial accounts. Because of this void, women have had to adjust and discover the in's and outs of the menswear industry from scratch.
"I've had to learn who the good fashion houses are, who creates the most exposure, what shows turn a boy into a household name and which up and coming brands to watch. We're the ones who create the IT boys and decide what look is going to be in, "says Trevette. And for the fresh faces who join the industry when they're rosy cheeked 15 year old cherubs, the bookers come to act as mother figures. "I signed a contract with Supa when I was 16 and right away had so many castings and
editorials. At first it was so overwhelming and I had no idea what I was doing. Amelia acted almost like my second mother. I would have been a lost puppy otherwise," says Goss. Perhaps it's the nurturing, maternal aspect of female bookers that works so well on the men's board or perhaps it is the lack of men wanting to be behind the scenes of the modelling world, but it has created a need for a powerful army of female booking agents to grow.
MALE MODELLING Just as the bookers are rising in the industry, the menswear industry itself is gaining momentum. Expected to hit an astounding ÂŁ16.5 billion in the next few years, male modelling is only going to grow alongside it. London plays a key role in the fashion pick & mix with LC:M and the "scruffy, scrawny rough looking South London type that
SUPA Stars: Hunter Parkes closing Versace AW16, the SUPA team (Ama Samra, Charlie Clark, Lauren Farrelley and Amelia Trevette), Reece King, Sol Goss at Louis Vuiton fitting, Max Streetley in Elle China
the industry is currently in love with," says Trevette. So just as London's modelling scene is becoming the new playground for the up and coming, social media is forging a future for hopeful models. It's a changing industry, and a changing consumer, and agency bookers are the ones innovating the modelling worlds next new face. GQ
JULY 2016 GQ 164
Victoria Jackson, MWB Editor Victoria Jackson, 26, is the editor of menswear trade magazine, MWB. The Yorkshire native lives in London with her boyfriend
MWB IS THE UK'S LEADING
MY ALARM GOES OFF... At 6am. Each day can be very different, depending if it's in season or out of season. If it's fashion month, then my hours can ranging from 7.30am through to 10.30pm - especially if I'm putting together a photo shoot.
I'M RESPONSIBLE FOR... Overseeing everything at MWB. I've worked across womenswear, lingerie and the footwear industry and I have to say, menswear is one of the most genuine and friendly industries to work in. I started working for MWB back in 2013, just before menswear was about to have its "moment", so it's been great to ride that wave if you like. In regards to work, I want to continue growing MWB as a brand, looking at collaborations with brands and really pushing forward with our digital strategy. On a personal level, I want to build on the success of my blog last year - I won an award for the Best Fashion Inspired Interiors Blog at the Amara Interior Blog Awards, which was amazing, so I want to carry on building Apartment Number 4 and become a destination site for affordable but inspirational interior design ideas.
TRADE TITLE
MWB'S LATEST ISSUE
I GOT THE JOB... Only by chance when I sent my CV to the publishing house I work for now for an assistants position. I worked for various titles before being offered my own publication as editor a year into working for the company. As you can probably tell I'm driven and not afraid of hard work. I always say to anyone wanting to get into this industry hands on experience is key, so get as much as you possibly can. It's what set me aside from other applicants. I started a blog back in 2008 and continued to build that, as well as working two paying jobs on the side to make sure my bills were covered.
MY TYPICAL DAY... Many of my friends think being an editor is a super glamorous job, and don't get me wrong there are moments when I can't believe I get paid to do this for a living. But a normal average day will consist of me getting in to work early, checking emails and trying to clear my inbox before my work
JACKSON'S AWARD WINNING INTERIOR BLOG
starts. I then make a to-do list of all the things I need to get finished that day. I'll take some time to look for new designers to feature and to write down ideas for possible articles for the coming month. I'll also try and get a couple of stories up on our website, especially If there's any breaking news that day within the industry.
certainly a challenge but I love both so much I couldn't pick one to give up. THE BEST PART OF MY JOB...
I found it refreshing to be a woman within the menswear industry. I don't think the fact I was a woman in this industry was the issue, but I do think it was sometimes hard to MY MOST MEMORABLE WORK be taken seriously as a 26 year-old editor. I followed in the footsteps of MOMENT... a great editor at MWB, who was both well known and well respected London Collections Men or Pitti in the industry so I had big shoes to Uomo- I'm running from one show fill. I didn't want to just fill them, so to the next. They always say the I bought a brand new pair and put women in trainers or pumps at my own spin on the magazine, fashion shows are the ones there to including a complete redesign so it do the work. Do I agree? Absolutely. felt like my baby. THE WORST PART OF MY JOB... Multitasking MWB with my blog. It's
My Plan B : Interior Designer I've always been a huge fan of interior design, and I think if I hadn't have become a writer, I would have studied to become an interior designer. It also gives me a release from writing about fashion and I think there are so many trends that span across the two sectors.
AFTER WORK.. I like to wind down with a glass of wine . www.mwb-online.co.uk STYLIST.COUK
20
Words Chelsea Davis Illustrations Charlotte Coakley
From the classic Hollywood style of Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn to the likes of YSL's Le Smoking suit and Diane Keaton in Annie Hall, women borrowing from menswear culture has always been present in fashion . Twenty-first century women have taken it one step further by shopping the menswear rails ; their wardrobes packed to the brim with baggy boyfriend jeans and oversized jackets. And it's not just women who are hopping on the bandwagon: 'Usually girls steal their boyfriends' jeans or jumpers, but from my experience it was quite the opposite. My boyfriend would often borrow some of my menswear items,' says model and LCF Journalism graduate Elise LeBrun. The way we dress is changing. We are beyond simply 'gender-blurring' and being androgynous. Menswear and masculine staples which we have taken from the boys such tailored trousers, short hair and brogues have now become wholly feminine in their own right. The so called 'gender blend' has evolved and created a generation of fashion conscious individuals - where gender through dress is not a signifier of sexuality, rather a form of expression. As customers, we are buying across genders without thinking if a particular designer or a style is 'meant' to be for men's or women's. We are deconstructing the paradigm of traditional dress and allowing this new and experimental way of style to shine through. Fragments of inspiration from counter-culture and pioneers in the queer communities have infiltrated brands like J.W. Anderson and Alexander McQueen, creating trends that filter back to mainstream culture - making gender blurring more popular than ever. Willow and Jaden Smith, Ruby Rose and even Rihanna are ambassadors for genderless style, letting the heteronormativity of the traditional fashion industry fade into the darkness. But what does this mean for us gals? Because, what is fashion if not a platform to express and empower our inner selves? Wearing menswear means that we are not restricted to a certain type of dress and boxed into a category in which others contain us. It is freedom in fashion.
42
Words Chelsea Davis
Unless you've been living under a rock somewhere, you'd have noticed the permeation of queered gender binaries both on the runway and on the high street. Tom Ford, Burberry and Gucci have all be innovators in ditching the gender specific catwalk shows and merging both menswear and womenswear into a cohesive collection and brand image. So, as fashion's top dog brands are embracing a genderless vision, why is there such a divide behind the scenes? Today, the menswear industry is anything but black and white. Over the last few years it has blossomed in contemporary culture with the rise of the metrosexual and the demand of men wanting to look good. With the indication from the runway that attitudes towards women and menswear is growing, there still seems to be a void for women working in the industry. Marc Jacobs, J.W. Anderson, Jonathan Saunders; the list of men designing for women goes on. But it's not as easy to do the same for the women who are masterminding menswear. But why? 'I do think that people have reservations about women designing for men because people may think 'how do women understand what men want to wear' when in fact it's what you don't expect to see on a man that is the most interesting,' says rookie menswear designer, Isobel Cook. In an era of rampant feminism and powerful women dominating the media, shouldn't we be talking about female menswear designers like we do male womenswear? Veronique Nichanian has been the Artistic Director of Hermes Menswear for over twenty years, one of the few women of London Collections : Men, Lou Dalton has become a fast favourite among the menswear elite, and Grace Wales Bonner has been praised for promoting diversity through her collections. These are the women we need to hear more about. For those pioneering in this male dictated industry, it's not an easy feat, especially considering that women receive 80p for every ÂŁ1 earned by a man. Facing undermining remarks and being a victim of condescending behaviour is not out of the norm. These women have had an upward battle to fight for success, which makes their creations even more innovative for the industry.
43
Words Chelsea Davis
Whether we are borrowing clothes from the men in our lives, or shopping in the men's sections, there is something quite comforting and effortlessly cool about adding a piece of menswear into our wardrobes. But what is it about menswear that is so enticing? 'It is the ethos of respecting the fabric, the cut and the purity of the details that has a lot of women buying into menswear' says Curator at the Fashion Space Gallery, Polona Dolzan. Menswear designers make garments that are meant to last without having to compromise, something womenswear hasn't quite hit on the head yet. Working with a man's wardrobe, you can play with the silhouette all while keeping a feminine aspect. It's like the old time saying, less is more. In terms of wearing menswear, what is hidden can be more enticing than what is revealed. This gives women who wear menswear a new grasp of femininity. One that isn't all 'look at me because I'm wearing heels and a tight dress.' Now it is 'look at me because I have good taste.' Just as much as womenswear, we've been surrounded by menswear through our fathers, brothers and boyfriends. But big baggy denim jackets and sportswear hoodies is just scraping the surface of the menswear potential. London's ritziest clubs are even altering their dress code to allow trainers...something that would have caused an outrage among the high flyers of Mayfair five years ago. Not to mention that menswear, on a whole, is cheaper. According to Business of Fashion, Saint Laurent often marks up a women's version of identical designs by 10%, and Valentino has been criticised for adding an extra $840 to a silk shirt. Why should we pay more for the same design when we can cut out the middle man and beeline for menswear?
46
As spring glides into summer, we're saying goodbye to the chunky stripe and welcoming back the classic pinstripe. If there is one print we all have in our wardrobes, it's stripes. From navy nautical stripes to bright colour blocking patterns, stripes are the power print that we can always count on. But as we are approaching the simmering summer season, it's all about crisp lines and streamlined silhouettes: time to reintroduce the razor-sharp pinstripe. Taking cues from the traditional menswear motif, the linear pattern is getting a revamp. HISTORY, HERSTORY
DRIES VAN NOTEN
Pinstripes have been a fashion staple throughout the years. Appearing in the attire of the classic gangster-squad 'Zoot Suit' of the 40's to the power dressing yuppies of the 80s, the minimalist print oozes power and class. Just take a look at Diane Keaton's flared white pinstripe get-up at the White House Correspondent's Dinner in 2012. But why has there been a pinstripe revival? Just like Keaton's androgynous style, experimenting with menswear has never been more à la mode. With gender boundaries being pushed further than ever before, we are seeing a plethora of boyish fits paired with sharp pinstripes on the runway.
DIANE KEATON
INSPO Storming down the DKNY AW16 catwalk was a monochromatic palette of pinstripes. Deconstructed suits and boxy tailoring nodded to classic menswear silhouettes. Dries van Noten mirrored the tone and soft tailored shapes with a feminine edge( girl power). It's impossible to resist Vetements' SS16 oversized tailoring and men's pinstriped shirtsshowing men's shapes can look even better on us ladies. Off the runway and on the streets, Cristina Popîrțac (girlfriend of menswear designer, Florin Dobre) is your source for feminised menswear. OFF THE RAILS
VETEMENTS
We're no longer refined to just 'borrowing from the boys'. Our fav brands have already scrounged from masculine trends before we could even raid the men's section. Pinstripes not only slim your pins but high street versions don't slim your wallet either. Check out & Other Stories and Cos for modern pinstripe fashions. With a chic asymmetrical pinned shirt (£59, Cos) and tailored wool pinstripe trousers (£79, & Other Stories), pinstripes are the simple yet effortless way to add some freshness into your wardrobe.
COS PINNED SHIRT
29
.co.uk
CRISTINA POPIRTA C
Wednesday 25 May 2016 The Daily Telegraph
18 FASHION
The extra cost of dressing like a woman In the 21st century, women are getting taxed for simply buying clothes for their bodies- Chelsea Davis says, let's all shop in the men's department.
A
re you paying the 'Pink Tax'? Just because of your luck in the lottery gender, women having been paying more for goods that have been marketed specifically to them as females. This has caused outrage amongst those who consider the Pink Tax to be a factor of gender discrimination, and rightly so. So how do we fight this battle? By avoiding the pink and shopping for menswear. According to pink.tax, In 1995 the government of the state of California conducted a study showing that women in that state spent an average of $1351 in extra gender-based costs and fees each year for goods tailored to them as females. This phenomenon, has come to be known as the "Pink Tax".
Following research from The New York City Department of Consumer Affairs (DCA) conducted December of last year, women's clothing costs an additional average of 7% more than men's. And the gap is even higher in the luxury sector. 'I think more now than ever it's such an amazing time to
be a woman,' explains Mariam from female- led mentoring program, Mentor MatcHer, 'there is so much light being shined on gender equality it's empowering us to do better. Women need to ask for more.' So now it's time to ask for equally priced clothing. The Telegraph found that Saint Laurent charges ÂŁ490 for the Paris Collar shirt in White Cotton Poplin while the exact same version in the menswear
section will only set you back ÂŁ270. That's a mark up of 81% just because you are a women. Other designer labels with similar gender based pricing discrepancies are Gucci and Balmain, to name a few. And for the high street, an identical plain white t-shirt from Whistles will see you paying 33% more because of your gender.
Women's clothing costs an additional average of 7% more than men's. To battle the unfair markup's, shop in the menswear sections. Not only will your wallet be thanking you, but with the soft tailoring and masculine shapes taking prescient in forecasted SS17 WGSN trends, you'll also be ahead of the trends.
Above: Saint Laurent Paris Collar Shirt (ysl.com)
But with the exponential growth in the now $408.4 billion menswear market, is it the end of the gender price gap? With men becoming more fashion oriented and willing to spend more, the pink tax may become obsolete in the near future.
THE BROWSER (TREND IMAGES HERE)
TRAVEL
IMAGE
ADVERTISEMENT