Current Designers: Final Project Designer Scrap Book Chelsea Mack [Pick the date]
Yves Saint Laurent Introduction Yves Saint Laurent is considered to be one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century. He is celebrated for bringing street wear into Haute Couture, creating liberating and beautiful styles for women, and pioneering to bridge the gap between popular culture and fashion. Many current and innovative designers list YSL as their personal mentor and his designs continue to influence fashion around the world.
Biography YSL was born in 1936 in Oran, Algeria. His father was an insurance company manager and his mother was a fashion enthusiast, which significantly impacted his career path. He spent his childhood perusing through French fashion magazines and designing dresses for his mother and sister. When YSL was 17, he traveled to Paris to start his formal fashion education. There, he entered into a fashion design competition sponsored by the International Wool Secretariat. Not only did YSL place first, he met Christian Dior. After a short conversation and after seeing YSL designs and sketches, Dior hired YSL to become his assistant. With the unfortunate death of Dior in 1957, YSL was selected to replace the fashion mogul as design head of the House of Dior. He was 21 at the time of this appointment. His first collection for Dior received critical acclaim. His trapeze dresses liberated women from the restrictive and binding fashions of the past and gave them a new silhouette. His trapeze dress landed YSL the Neiman Marcus Oscar for fashion excellence. The design featured narrow shoulders and a wide-swinging skirt. In 1960, YSL launched his “Beat Look” or Left Bank style. This received mixed responses amongst critics, affecting his appointment to the House of Dior. That same year, YSL was drafted into the French Army to fight in the Algerian War. His service was short-lived, since he was mentally unprepared to deal with the stresses of a deployment to a combat zone. By the time he returned home, he had been replaced as the head of the House of Dior. Considering this a blessing, YSL started his own label with the financing of partner Pierre Berge. Under this label, YSL continued to revolutionize fashion of the time. His designed a tuxedo for women in 1965 called “Le Smoking”. He is also known for giving women see-through blouses, peasant blouses, jump suits, and wearable and flattering pant suits. In 1966, he opened up his first ready-to-wear boutique for women. At this time he started using ethnic models in his runway shows. He was the first designer to use black models in his shows.
YSL career started to come to an end in the late 90s. Many of his designs and collections were reinventions of his historic collections of the 60s and 70s. In 1993 he sold his fashion house and in 1998 he showed his last ready-to-wear collection. In 2003, after he announced his retirement from the fashion world, YSL became very reclusive, seldom leaving his estate in Morocco. In 2008, YSL lost his battle with brain cancer and passed away on June 1st.
Marketing Strategy and Muses YSL proved his affinity for marketing his brand name with his ground breaking perfume campaigns. In 1971 he shocked the fashion world by launching a campaign, in which he posed nude for. The campaign for his scent, Opium, featured model Jerry Hall and captured the sex, drugs and rock and roll themes of the time. This campaign was launched in 1977. Many worldly celebrities remained have remained faithful to the YSL brand. Loulou de la Falaise, Marie-Hélène de Rothschild, and French actress Catherine Deneuve were among YSL most trusted customers and muses. These days Cameron Diaz, Chloe Sevigny, Claudia Schiffer, Claire Danes, Carla Bruni, and Catherine Zita-Jones are all well known supporters and wearers of the YSL label.
Inspirations and Historic Influences Aside from being inspired by beautiful and stylish women, YSL was heavily influenced by popular culture and social movements. He is well known for transforming the Mondrian movement in art into extremely successful designs. His Mondrian dresses encapsulated the essence of Mondrian art through color choices and color blocking. He was also inspired by the works of Marcel Proust, the Russian Cossacks and ballets. His “Le Smoking” tuxedo jacket was directly inspired by the lesbian cross-dressing circuits in France. He embraced the trend towards more androgynous clothing that was popular in Europe.
Mood/Theme YSL worked to take street wear and make it couture. He wanted to dress women so that they looked sophisticated, elegant, and expensive. His reoccurring theme of androgynous clothing is relevant in his pant suits, tuxedo jackets for women and blouses.
Fabrics, Construction Techniques and Designs His designs were cutting edge. He transformed the way women looked and dressed. For this, YSL is known as the “King of Fashion”. He was a couturier, some of his garments took more than 80 people to hand sew. He preferred expensive and luxurious fabrics, importing exotic fabrics from around the world.
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Line and Shape YSL changed the way that women dress. His clothing contained many different silhouettes. His trapeze dresses were narrow up top and flowed into a wide skirt. His Mondrian dresses were tubular in shape. His tuxedo jackets were fitted and many contained cut outs. His pants were
fitted and included a tight Capri. His lines were simple, yet elegant, sometimes being used as design elements, as is evident with his Mondrian dresses.
Use of Color and Texture YSL saw fashion as art and used color and texture to translate this concept. His clothing are brilliantly colored and arranged. He was known to layer fabrics on top of each other, using their individual textures to complement each other. Many of his color choices were bold and bright. His Mondrian dresses used color blocking of bold primary colors. He paired hot pink with black in his tuxedo jackets and many of his dresses include bright and sophisticated color pallets.
Balance of Construction of the Garments YSL clothing was specifically tailored and designed to ensure there was a pleasing balance of construction in his clothing. He was an exquisite tailor, which is evident in the way that his clothing fit the female form, which is increasingly impressive when you consider that he was transforming men’s styles and putting them on a more delicate, female form.
Harmony in the Entire Collection YSL collections were very harmonious, each embodying their own themes and elements. His Safari collection incorporated his preference for ethnic styles and fabrics, for instance. While each collection was different, there was definite harmony.
Takada Kenzo
Biography Takada Kenzo was born in Himeiji City, Japan in 1940. He was one of seven children and began his fashion career by thumbing through his sister’s fashion magazines. Against his parent’s wishes, Takada really wanted to be a fashion designer and worked very hard to gain admission into Tokyo’s lucrative fashion design school. This was unheard of, since he was a man and fashion design was considered a woman’s profession In Japan. After he graduated, Takada moved to Paris and began work as a freelance designer, selling his designs to big name designers, couturiers, and fashion houses. Eventually, his unique style and designs began garnering attention. His style incorporated an “East meets West vibe”, combining the two different worlds in one grand fashion gesture. His clothes were known for their color, texture and their prints, featuring ethnic and floral designs. In 1970, Takada opened up his first store, called Jungle Jap. From there, Takada exploded on the French and worldwide fashion scene. Being credited with introducing Japanese design aesthetic to the rest of the fasion world, Takada became a big name designer, even opening up his own fashion house, called Kenzo. In the 90s, Takada started to design for men as well as children. In 1993, luxury label Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy bought the house of Kenzo. Takada himself announced his retirement from fashion in 1999.
Marketing Strategies Takada has been a marketing genius from the beginning of his career. Finding a name for himself was his goal when he was a mere freelance designer selling his sketches in Paris. Soon, however, through hard work, obvious talent and dedication, Takada has made a global name for himself. Takada has been the brainchild behind several very successful ad campaigns for his fashion and fragrance lines. His first fragrance line was called Kenxo de Kenzo and its ad campaign was so successful that Takada continued to create lucrative fragrance and successful ad campaigns. His marketing has been based on the merger between worlds, primarily western and eastern. Through this, he has launched numerous successful ad campaigns that have helped turned him into a global name designer.
Inspirations Takada is most inspired by nature, color, and multiculturalism, especially the Japanese and French cultures. He tries to embody the balance between nature and spirit, as well as body and soul. His early designs were influenced by the kimono, which is the traditional dress attire in Japan. However, he is also drawn to loud, colorful themes, like the circus, which was a theme
for one of his runway shows, a show in which he appeared on the runway riding an elephant! He is also heavily influenced by folk costumes.
Mood, Theme, Fabrics, Construction, and Design. His signature print is a floral motif, which is apparent in even his perfume bottle designs, although his designs also feature a lot of ethnic prints. He is very selective when it comes to fabrics, preferring 100% cotton, other natural fibers and knits. His garments are large, becoming most famous for his “big silhouette�. He designs a lot of wide legged pants and smock tent dresses. His clothing is also somewhat androgynous, although most of his clothing is made for women. He is also known for his bold use of bright colors and daring color combinations. When it comes to construction, Takada prefers flat patterns, like that of the kimono, which translates into the designs of his garments, producing big garments with large sleeves.
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Line and Shape Takada’s clothing is big and bold. He made his name on producing “big silhouettes”. He was originally inspired by the kimono dress, which is amplified in his clothing’s silhouettes.
Use of Color and Texture Takada is known for bright colors, patterns, interesting color usage and layering of textures. He mixes patterns, fabrics, and colors, producing visually bright garments made to stand out from the rest.
Balance of Construction of the Garments All of his clothing is big and over the top. His clothing has less structure than other designers, as he is known for draping and layering. His clothing is meant to be beautiful, flowing, sophisticated, and ethnic.
Harmony in the Entire Collection Takada is very consistent in his designs. His collections are full of fabric, color, and patterns. His designs are very cohesive, although each garment is a stand out piece.
Calvin Klein Biography Calvin Klein was born on November 19, 1942 in one of New York’s famous boroughs, the Bronx. He was always drawn to fashion and fashion illustrations, even from a young age. He would spend hours sitting in New York and drawing women’s suits and dresses. After graduating high school, Calvin enrolled in the Fashion Institute of Technology in Manhattan. While, there he met his first wife, Jayne Centre. They had one child together, Marci, before they filed for divorce. Calvin broke into the fashion scene in when the relaxed fashion of the hippie generation of the 60s was popular. He got his start after launching his own business in 1968 called Calvin Klein, Inc. He started designing jackets and dresses for women. When designer Bonwitt Teller bought out Calvin’s inventory, Calvin was launched into design stardom. Soon, Calvin began changing the fashion industry. He started designing designer jeans in the 80s, which forever altered the fashion world. Now, people were rushing to the stores to buy expensive luxury denim with Calvin Klein’s name on the butt. He turned from the couture designs that many name designers were focusing on and instead took sports and active wear and made them sheek fashion statements. What he did to sports and active wear is nothing compared to what he did to underwear. Calvin made it acceptable to done tailored and expensive underwear for all to see. His provocative ad campaigns featured scantily clad men and women wearing only Calvin Klein underwear. In the 90s, Calvin launched his bridge label, CK, which was targeted at Middle Class America. Referred to as the epitome of American fashion designers, Calvin Klein has become a household brand. He has expanded his empire to include high fashion, ready to wear, bridge labels, denim, underwear, perfume, accessories, make-up, and even home essentials. Calvin has been the recipient of many awards, including the COTY award for three consecutive years in the 1970s.He was also awarded the Council of Fashion Designers of America award for both women and menswear. He won the CDFA and the America’s Best Designer Award.
Marketing Strategy and Muses Calvin Klein is known for his provocative ad campaigns for both his underwear and perfume lines. His ads feature very young looking models wearing virtually nothing and posing in sexually provocative positions. He has received a lot of criticism and backlash for these ad campaigns, some of which were pulled because they were so controversial. His ad campaigns have featured Brooke Shields, Mark Wahlberg, Kate Moss, Antonio Sabato Jr., and Djimon Hounsou. His celebrity endorsements include GwynethPaltrow, Julia Roberts, Sandra Bullock, and Helen Hunt.
Inspirations and Historic Influences
Calvin is most influenced by the body. His clothing is minimalist in its lines and styling, which gives emphasis to the silhouette. He is also influenced by New York street life.
Mood/Theme Calvin’s clothes are sexy, elegant, sophisticated and modern. He pushes the boundaries of what’s acceptable and what’s taboo in his ad campaigns, which all contain raw, sexual energy. He loves the body form, emphasizing lines and contours. He clothing is classically styled and has a clean finish.
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Line and Shape Calvin Klein likes elegant likes and sheek shapes. He is a minimalist in a lot of ways, and doesn’t focus on large and bold embellishments or glitzy design details. Instead, he sees the perfection in the small details and because of that his clothes include a lot of long, flowing lines, tailored shapes, and sophisticated details.
Use of Color and Texture Calvin keeps it simple when it comes to colors and textures. He prefers a mono color pallet and very rarely includes interesting color combinations; instead, he chooses to keep colors very simple and particular. He doesn’t use a lot of contrasting textures, either.
Balance of Construction of the Garments His clothing is very balanced. His emphasis is always the body’s form and shape and his garments flatter the body, not take away from it.
Harmony in the Entire Collection Calvin’s collections are very harmonious. They have a very direct point of view and are very balanced within each collection.
Anna Sui Biography Anna Sui was born on August 4, 1964 in Dearborn Heights, Michigan. She attended Parsons School of Design in New York in 1973. After graduating two years later, Anna became the lead stylist for a photographer and friend she had met during college. During the beginning half of the 1980s, Anna spent her time trying to establish herself as a designer. She presented her original designs in a boutique show, which lead to Macy’s purchasing her entire first collection. After that, Anna started her own design business that would operate out of her apartment during the rest of the 80s. The 1990s saw Anna Sui reach her stardom as an American fashion designer. She launched her first runway show in 1991 and soon was able to move her work location out of her apartment and into an actual showroom. Soon she opened her first boutique and was awarded the CFDA Perry Ellis Award for New Fashion Talent. Since then, Anna Sui has built a reputation for hip looks mixed with haute style. After received nationwide success as a fashion designer, Anna decided to branch out into global operations. Anna opened freestanding boutiques in Asia. Her brand began to expand to include shoes, perfume, accessories, and cosmetics.
Marketing Strategies Anna Sui has worked to expand her brand to become more than just women’s and menswear, but many other facets, including perfume, cosmetics, shoes, and accessories. Her shoe line is extremely popular and has influenced and inspired many other designers, both nationally and globally. Globally speaking, Anna has worked to expand her brand to impact the world, not just America. She has opened boutiques in Asia and works to bring global awareness to her brand. Anna is a queen of licensing. She has licensing arrangements with her perfume, cosmetic, and shoe lines. Her clothes are worn by Patricia Arquette, Christina Ricci, Naomi Campbell, Cher, Courtney Love, James Iha, and Sophia Coppola.
Inspiration Anna Sui has very unique inspirations. Her stores all have purple walls and red floors and are filled with vintage furniture mixed with mannequins. Her clothing is inspired by mixing vintage styles with her own worldly inspirations. She likes the understand everything behind her inspirations. She wants to know why they inspire her. She is inspired by cowboys, the Victorian era, textile prints from around the world and her vast cultural knowledge.
Mood, Theme, Fabrics, Construction, and Design. Anna’s worldly inspirations are evident when looking at her collections. She loves bright colors and bold color combinations. Her fabrics vary but they are always elegant and accentuate her designs, rather than take away from them. She uses sleek and flowing lines and fun and flirty looks.
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Line and Shape
Anna Sui loves to be fun and flirty with her collections. They are young and fresh. She includes a lot of line and shapes in her designs. She prefers short dresses that flatter and accentuate the body.
Use of Color and Texture Anna loves color, texture and pattern. She combines colors in such a way as to create an ambiance that sets the tone of the collection. Sometimes, her collections are bright and bold. Sometimes, she combines contrasting colors to create stand out looks. On the other hand, sometimes she works with shades of black and gray. She also loves bold prints and texture.
Balance of Construction of the Garments Anna’s collections are very cohesive. She keeps the color story consistent and the styling and silhouettes.
Harmony in the Entire Collection Anna’s collections are very harmonious in that they are all cohesive and tell a story.
Betsey Johnson Biography Betsey Johnson was born on August 10, 1942 in Wethersfield, Connecticut. Betsey grew up with two great passions: art, particularly sketching, and dancing. Her love of fashion started when she was allowed to design her dance competition outfits. From there, Betsey knew that she could use fashion design to incorporate her two other passions: dance and art. After high school, Betsey went on to graduate from Syracuse University in 1964 with top honors. After college, Betsey scored an internship as the Guest Editor for Mademoiselle, a fashion and lifestyle magazine for young women. When her guest position expired at the magazine, Betsey was hired in the magazine’s art department, which brought Betsey to the next step in her career. Her new position took her to London’s music scene, where she was introduced to the MOD styles that would be introduced to American by the British Invasion led by the Beatles. She was so inspired by London’s street style that she brought those ideas back to New York, where she was hired as a designer for Paraphernalia, a chic clothing boutique. While designing fot Paraphernalia, Betsey began to receive a lot of attention for her use of unconventional textiles and materials in her garments. She famously made a dress out of shower curtains, for instance. Another one of her designs, dubbed “The Noise” dress, made a lot of noise when worn because of the layers of metal bangles. During this time, Betsey became a member of the “Youthquake” movement, centered around fashion, culture and art. She was close friends with Andy Warhol and attended many of his parties and functions. She also developed a strong following amongst her customers. This lasted for almost a decade, when her customers grew up and were members of the professional work force. Almost overnight, Betsey sales dropped and she was in serious jeopardy of going bankrupt. This lull in sales and profits lasted for a couple years, that is until the Punk movement started to liven up. Once again, Betsey found herself to be in a political and social climate that would trigger her creative expression. Soon, Betsey had recharged her designs and her brand. Betsey has remained a powerful force in the fashion world for over three decades. She has won multiple awards for her work as a fashion designer for more than 30 years. She is now known as a designer that defies all rules of fashion. Admittedly, she has maintained the same design aesthetic, but merely tweeked it to fit into the current fashion climate. She is known for her uncoventionalism, both as a designer and as a person. During each show, for instance, she does a cartwheel. She designs fun, flirty, feminine, and supercharged garments, meant to make a woman feel young, sexy and vibrant. There is no doubt that she will continue to be a force in the fashion world for decades more to come! "Making clothes involves what I like, color, pattern, shape and movement. I like the everyday process and the people, the pressure, the surprise of seeing the work come alive walking and
dancing around on strangers. I like red lipstick on the mouth. My products wake up and brighten and bring the wearer to life, drawing attention to her beauty and specialness, her moods and movements, her dreams and fantasies." - Betsey Johnson
Marketing Strategies Betsey Johnson is more than just a designer; she is a brand, through-and-through. Her brand includes more than just fashion. She has shoe, cosmetic, lingerie, and perfume lines. She is constantly licensing her name to other industries: cell phones and watch industries, for instance, although there are many more. Betsey is also a global force, with over 80 stores open and operational worldwide. Betsey’s celebrity faithful include: Katy Perry, Paris Hilton, Joan Jet, Janis Joplin, Cindy Lauper, Twiggy, Madonna, Lenny Kravitz, Minnie Driver, Lil’ Kim, Cher, and Jacqueline Onassis, among many others!
Inspirations Betsey is inspired by many things. Her daughter, Lola, is a big inspiration for her. She is also very inspired by color, movement, and dancing. She wants to dress women the way they want to be dressed, without worrying about what other people are thinking of them. "I'm usually the sparkle in a closet full of conservative clothes. Either that or my customer has a closet full of my clothes and a few conservative suits from Calvin Klein. I think you've got to give a girl what's missing from her closet. If something jazzy, tacky or sexy is what's missing, I provide it" – Betsey Johnson.
Mood, Theme, Fabrics, Construction, and Design. Betsey’s clothes are all about having fun, being flirty and enjoying life. She makes clothes to fill the niches of emptiness in a woman’s closet. And it is through this uncanny ability to sense and predict not only current need but future demands that have made her such a force in the fashion world for more than three decades! She is the first one to admit that most of her garments are revisions of previous styles that have been tweaked to be appropriate for the current political and social climates. She is a very unconventional designer. She defies the rules of age and fashion and she uses unconventional materials to construct her garments. Not only does she use velvet, leather, lace, satin, cotton, and polyester, Betsey has also been known to use shower curtains, the linings out of cars, and even the pinstripes from the New York Yankees jerseys!
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Line and Shape Betsey is most of all inspired by her daughter and dancing, and in both cases, short skirts are preferable! She is quoted as saying that she prefers a ballerina’s silhouette, which is tight throughout the torso and then full in the skirt. This is the aesthetic that Betsey has been faithful to. Her clothes are cut to be fun, sexy and revealing. High hemlines and low necklines are synonymous with Betsey Johnson dresses!
Use of Color and Texture Betsey loves color and texture. Her clothing is inspired not only by dancing and her daughter, but also the world we live in. This includes color! She, herself, loves pink, but is not scared to use any other color. As for texture, Betsey believes the more the better. She tends to mix up the textiles used in her clothing: lace, leather, satin, taffeta, and velvet. Each one of these textiles has a different texture, and these textiles are used consistently throughout her designs.
Balance of Construction of the Garments Betsey’s garments are rarely balanced! She has a very free design spirit, which takes her in all sorts of different design directions. A lot of her smaller dresses, however, are balanaced.
Harmony in the Entire Collection
Betsey’s harmony comes in the chaos of her artistic dishevelment. She is inspired by so many different things and embraces so many different colors, patterns and textures, that this chaos becomes her brand. She is known for her off the wall clothing and attitude. There is also harmony in the fact that each garment adheres to her personal perspective about fashion and life‌both should be fun and well lived!
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