BOSUN’S BAG

PRACTICAL TIPS FOR THE TRADITIONAL BOATER

WORDS TOM CUNLIFFE ILLUSTRATION MARTYN MACKRILL

When a boat stays in the water all winter, there are two choices for preparing her engine for long periods of rest. The obvious solution is to make a pact with oneself to visit the vessel at least once a fortnight and run the motor under load for an hour or so every time. Running it in neutral gear is bad news because it will take ages to warm up and diesels love to work. Too much of this will cause deterioration to the cylinder bores among other things so, if she’s alongside, make sure the stern line and the head spring are well set up, then select ahead and give it half revs. The engine will enjoy its outing and the batteries will love a good old jolt from the alternator.

The downside of this policy is that it’s easy to put off until the spring doing the basic engine service we all can manage. After a diesel has run for a season, or 100 hours, or whatever you’ve decided is to be the oil-change interval, the oil absorbs undesirable extras that worry away at the metal parts inside the engine. Changing the oil and filter removes the lion’s share of these. If you’re content to leave them doing their nasty work all winter long, that’s up to you, but an oil change at lay-up time is by far the better solution. Since you are going to that trouble, why not change the fuel filters at the same time, and do what needs to be done with the gearbox oil too. Even if you plan on the fortnightly run to keep things working, fresh oil will be a bonus. The guarantee of clean fuel will be another, and there’s also the psychological advantage that you’ve done the jobs already when fit-out time comes around.

Whether the boat is stored ashore or afloat, if she’s outside, or even inside, in an unheated shed, the fuel in the tanks will be subject to big temperature and humidity changes. Any air above the fuel will carry moisture in it, replenished via the tank breathers. An abrupt fall in temperature condenses this and that’s a few more drops of the dreaded water in your diesel. Pressing the tanks up full at lay-up time is the best way around this. The less air in the top of the tank, the less water in the diesel next year and, of course, you’ve taken the hit in the wallet six months ago when you’re having to stump up for antifouling, a new sail and all the rest of the new-season commitments.

Whether a boat is going ashore for the winter, or staying afloat but will be left alone for months, there’s one more job that will save you a lot of money in the end. Corrosion in the heat exchanger, exhaust elbow and piping in general are going on quietly all winter long if they are left full of salt water. Here’s what to do.

The engine’s internal system is already full of coolant with the required concentration of antifreeze – or it should be. It’s the raw water system we’re interested in. First, buy a gallon or so of eco-antifreeze. Mix 50/50 with fresh water in a watering can with no rose on the spout. Warm up the engine. Diesels don’t like being left after running for only a couple of minutes. Now, stop the engine and close the inlet seacock. Open the top of the water strainer and stand by with the watering can. Start the engine and watch the level in the strainer. As soon as it drops, top it up with the antifreeze and go on until you’ve none left. Shut the engine down immediately and replace the lid on the strainer. Leave the seacock closed. All the parts that count are now protected against frost, but equally importantly, the anti-corrosion and lubricating qualities are beyond price. Come spring, open the seacocks and start up. The eco antifreeze will do no harm as it’s ejected, and away you go.

STRIPPED TO A GANTLINE

When is a halyard not a halyard? Answer: When it’s a gantline.

The last rope left aloft when stripping a rig is always called a gantline. It’s best if this has its turning sheave as high as possible so that anyone in a bosun’s chair bringing the halyard blocks down for the winter can reach them all without stretching. A gaffer’s topsail halyard is favourite for this because it is set in a sheave on a pin through the mast and has no block of its own that would otherwise have to be left aloft. On a bermudan mast it will be the main halyard or a topping lift.

Blocks left aloft in the weather all winter long suffer horribly. By spring, they are always the worse for wear, with cracks appearing in the wooden joints as well as having their varnish wrecked by the wind, rain and snow. It’s so much better to bring them home. Then you can service them in comfort instead of slumping on the sofa to study the latest grim tidings from Albert Square.

If muscle for getting aloft is a problem and you have a power windlass, try this: lead the halyard that will become the gantline through a turning block at the base of the mast and take it to the windlass. You may need a second block near the hauling drum to ensure a fair lead. Otherwise riding turns may follow, which you don’t want with little Jimmy halfway up the stick. Sitting on deck with the heel of a boot on the windlass switch is the best way to operate the system, because you can watch what’s going on. And when the job’s done, take off all the turns except the last two so you can surge the rope smoothly. Nobody enjoys a jerky ride down to the deck.

MARTYN MACKRILL Son of a marine engineer and grandson of a trawlerman, Martyn is Honorary Painter of the Royal Thames Yacht Club and the Royal Yacht Squadron. His depictions of classic boats, from clinker rowing boats to Edwardian schooners, have made him one of the most sought-after marine artists, and his work forms part of major collections worldwide. He and his wife, Bryony, sail the restored 1910 ga cutter Nightfall (Classic Boat 328).