Scotland September/October 2024 - Sample Issue

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CLAN COURIER

Learn traditional baking in Perthshire and welcome back a legendary whisky distillery

A holiday-cottage company in Perthshire has teamed up with a local award-winning bakery to ensure that its guests get a proper taste of Scotland.

Monzie Estate Cottages is offering guests a 10% discount off cookery classes at nearby family-working bakery Campbells, where they can learn how to bake Scottish delicacies such as shortbread, oatcakes – and even Outlander bannocks inspired by the ones Mrs Fitz serves up to guests at Castle Leoch.

Holidaymakers get to take their sweet treats back to their homely cottage in the beautiful grounds of Monzie Castle (pictured), where there are plenty of trails for walking off any cake overindulgence. monzieestate.com

The beloved historical drama Outlander is nothing short of a sensation. Based on the bestselling book series by Diana Gabaldon, it sees military nurse Claire Randall (Caitríona Balfe) travel back in time, thanks to some magical stones, from the 1940s to the 1740s. Once in 18th-century Scotland, Claire meets a Highlander, Jamie Fraser (Sam Heughan), and is seduced by life with him. The epic adventure that Claire and Jamie find themselves on has a way of speaking to every human emotion. Over the years, the pair find themselves embroiled in drama, war, politics, complicated relationships, and traumatic loss. In the first part of series seven, Claire and Jamie find

© SHUTTERSTOCK/WALLOPHOTO/STARZ/GRAEME HUNTER/2016 SONY PICTURES TELEVISION.

ILLUSTRATION: ©

MICHAEL HILL
LEFT TO RIGHT: Midhope Castle on the Hopetoun estate stars as the Fraser family home, Lallybroch; Claire and Jamie ride away from Lallybroch

An expert’s guide to…

INVERNESS

Scotland’s northernmost city is so much more than just a stop gap, as our travel writer reveals

There’s an understated charm to Inverness, which, despite being known as the ‘capital of the Highlands’, has more the feel of a medium-sized town than a city. Though it may lack the tick-list of sights that other cities have, it nevertheless is the kind of place that rewards a few days of leisurely exploration.

This has long been a strategic site: a hillfort was built at Craig Phadrig, just east of the modern city, around 500BC and it was here, reputedly, that St Columba converted the Picts to Christianity.

Today’s castle (undergoing renovations) commands a more central position, overlooking the wide River Ness, and though the current building dates from the 19th century, it replaced an 11th-century castle that

was destroyed after the Jacobite defeat at the Battle of Culloden in 1746. When it reopens in 2025, it promises to be one of the city’s biggest attractions.

In recent years, Inverness’s food and drink scene has been transformed, with fantastic Highland produce at the forefront, from sustainable seafood and handmade doughnuts to beer pumped straight from the brewery. Spend your stay sampling these, wandering the tree-lined riverside, and ducking into bars to listen to traditional music, and this city will soon win you over.

BEST CITY BASE

If you can, stay by the river: here, particularly south of Ness Bridge, the busy city streets soon drop away. Just

CLOCKWISE

FROM TOP LEFT:

The pretty city of Inverness, as seen from the River Ness; prepare for the awe-inspiring Highlands by visiting Ness Islands; look out for dolphins on the Moray Firth

a short walk from the centre is Glen Mhor (glen-mhor.com), set across a handful of appealing river-facing Victorian townhouses. The best rooms have views across the river to the imposing red sandstone cathedral, and in the bar you can sample the excellent beer – made using water from the river itself – from Uile-bheist (uilebheist. com), the on-site brewery and distillery. If it’s booked up, try the elegant but unpretentious Ness Walk, part of the WorldHotels Luxury collection (nesswalk.com), tucked away on the opposite side of the river.

BEST ATTRACTION

To really get a feel of the city’s position as gateway to the Highlands, head a mile south of the centre to the tranquil Ness Islands. Here, graceful bridges

POWER TO THE PEOPLE

Since opening in 2004, the Scottish Parliament building in Holyrood has been at the heart of national politics

On 9 October 2004, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II officially opened the newly created Scottish Parliament building in Edinburgh in a day described as ‘a landmark for 21st century democracy’.

The celebration comprised of three main events, a grand opening ceremony at the old Parliament Hall, followed by a colourful, traditional ‘riding’ down the Royal Mile that involved 1,000 people, interspersed with 16 bright banners from Scotland’s eight regions.

The formal opening of the new building by Her Majesty took place in Holyrood’s new Debating Chamber, and included lively performances from famed violinist Nicola Benedetti, the RSNO, singer-songwriter Eddi Reader, renowned accordionist Phil Cunningham, and poet and playwright Liz Lochhead.

The new Parliament and its building had been a long time coming. Originally adjourned and dissolved in 1707 following the Treaty of Union, there was no Scottish Parliament to speak of until the people themselves spoke in 1997, voting to re-establish a Scottish Parliament for the first time in centuries and devolve power from Westminster.

The new Scottish Parliament first met in May 1999, some five years before this new building – the result of an international competition to design and create a building worthy as a seat of power that would be sited opposite the Palace of Holyroodhouse – was ready.

Spanish architect Enric Miralles’ vision proved victorious, but although building began in June 1999, his remarkable project went significantly over time and over budget.

Despite this (or perhaps because of it), the result is a staggering creation constructed from oak, steel and granite, that draws influence from the Scottish landscape, Charles Rennie Mackintosh and upturned boats on the seashore.

Visitors can admire the exteriors, grounds and architecture of the building, or step inside to see Scottish politics at work. There are opportunities to watch First Minister’s Questions, participate in free guided tours, and engage with Parliament’s permanent art collection, which includes works by more than 60 Scottish artists.

Not only does this building house the seat of devolved power, but it’s also a must-see visitor attraction in the capital. S

To find out about how you can visit the Scottish Parliament building, go to parliament.scot/visit

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