The Kitchen Garden at Thyme Months of

The Green Fuse

May arrives with a bang at Thyme in Southrop, the months of planning and planting resulting in a sudden rush of green that puts beans, herbs and botanicals on the menu

WORDS VIVIENNE HAMBLY PHOTOGRAPHS SUSSIE BELL

Dew gathers on rows of herbs and other botanicals that are prized by Thyme’s chefs and bar sta .

Above Exuberantly leafy greens grow at speed. With one eye on the weather, this is the time to think about planting out tender vegetables. M ay rushes in with almost unstoppable force. The dreams for the garden sketched out over the long months of winter, the seed orders placed from an armchair beside a fire, and the preparation carried out on icy days: they all lead to this point.

At Thyme near Southrop in Gloucestershire, the gentle folds of the landscape have turned an exultant shade of green. Hedgerows are erupting with a froth of white, elder is beginning to open its honey-scented flowers, and clouds of cow parsley line the little lane leading down to the kitchen garden.

As the last frosts pass, thoughts turn to planting out tender vegetables that will grow at pace in the warmer weather. And, as the evenings lengthen, chefs in Thyme’s kitchens call on Victoria Bowsher, under whose care the kitchen garden at Thyme thrives, for a very particular set of botanicals.

A Bean Feast

For a vegetable gardener, few things are more thrilling than watching a bean rapidly germinate and then scale a six-foot post in a matter of weeks. For imaginative gardeners, there is a wonderful selection of these legumes to choose from: dwarf varieties, climbing, French and haricot beans, and traditional runner beans that can be eaten whole when young or, if allowed to mature, be podded and eaten fresh or stored for use in winter soups and stews.

“By May, the beans we’ve sown under cover are ready to go out,” says Victoria. As insurance against a surprise late frost, it can help to keep a few seedlings back if they are not straining in their pots, or to sow a seed at the same place and time as planting out the seedling. This will also help to extend the growing season, with a younger plant gathering pace as the older plant begins to flag. “I like to sow in two stages, and I might try to do three

Top left Pink varieties of elderflower make a delicious, unusualcoloured cordial. Top right Peonies in the cutting garden begin to unfurl their blooms. Above Mist on the water meadow at dawn. Flowering chives make a pretty and toothsome addition to salads. Left Plant beans when the frost risk has passed. stages this year. But as long as you keep picking, the beans keep giving,” she explains.

Although supermarkets tend to sell only green beans, gardeners have other options at their fingertips. “The kitchens love the yellow and purple French beans,” notes Victoria. For a good yellow climbing French bean try ‘Neckargold’, available from Plants of Distinction. Purple beans look marvellous on their climbing frames but sadly turn green on cooking. ‘Cosse Violette’ is a widely available climbing variety, stocked by both Marshalls and Chiltern Seeds. For traditionalists, ‘Cobra’ is a fine green variety.

Climbing beans have the advantage of growing out of the reach of all but the most intrepid slugs and snails, but they do need support in the form of canes or obelisks. Dwarf beans grow as bushes and do not need support. Good dwarf varieties include green ‘Endeavour’ and yellow ‘Dior’.

TECHNIQUE Support Climbers

Beans, peas, and cucurbits, if they are not to run on the ground, all need supporting frames. Dwarf peas and broad beans need just simple twiggy hazel sticks pushed into the ground, but for bigger varieties the simplest solution is a teepee made from hazel poles: look to your local coppice for a ready supply. Structures need to be strong enough to withstand a prevailing wind and late-summer storms: four poles lashed together at the top with twine should be su cient. A traditional A-frame run of supports, held together at the top with a horizontal bar, is a possibility for growing on a larger scale.

A more decorative and fashionable element is an arch fashioned from hazel bent into shape: for a lesson on making one, try Alison Jenkins of Damson Farm, who hosts workshops (alisonjenkins.co.uk). For permanent obelisks and supports, look to Harrod Horticultural (harrodhorticultural. co.uk), Agriframes (agriframes.co.uk) and Oxford Planters (oxfordplanters. co.uk), choosing metal or wood.

Certain cucurbits will sprawl. For this, jute netting can be ideal. Sarah Raven can supply (sarahraven.com).

The French terms flageolet and haricot refer to the age at which French beans are podded and dried, with flageolet being younger than haricot. Gorgeous Italian borlotti beans with their red and cream speckles fall into the haricot category.

Meanwhile, runner beans, the mainstay of English allotments, are so attractive with their pretty peach, white and red flowers: little wonder they were grown as ornamentals in 17th-century Europe. ‘Painted Lady’ appeared in Europe in 1633 and is still widely grown today. Runner beans worth leaving to mature for storage include ‘Greek Gigantes’ and ‘The Czar’, both of which are available from Real Seeds.

Herbal Remedy

Herbs are integral to the menu at Thyme and, in May, chefs come down to the garden to gather leaves and flowers. Herbs are grown in pots and beds and line certain paths, pointing to the versatility of these fragrant, flavoursome plants. “There are some lovely rows of rosemary in the kitchen garden that are rather in the way, but they are so healthy I haven’t got the heart to dig them up,” says Victoria. Parsley, chives, sage and thyme are mainstays, but there is room for more unusual candidates. “The kitchen is obsessed by lovage at the moment,” she notes, duly sowing enough seed to keep up with demand. Head chef Charlie Hibbert is a fan of sweet woodru , which he turns into a syrup to pour over ice cream.

Herbs are in demand beyond the kitchen. The bar sta wander down to gather botanicals to make a signature Thyme vermouth. “They wouldn’t want me to disclose all the ingredients, but they include bay, sweet cicely, rosemary, yarrow, marjoram and sage,” Victoria reveals. In the spa, meanwhile, sweet cicely and mint are used to flavour jugs of cold water.

Above left Prunings can make attractive supports for peas and beans. Above middle Victoria gathers bunches of herbs for the kitchen. Above right Young coriander and quickgrowing radishes.

Seeds to Sow Now

Sweetcorn Courgettes Carrots and parsnips Brassicas Peas and beans Chives, coriander, dill and parsley

Harvesting Now

Spring cabbages Broad beans Asparagus Kale Spring onions

SEASONAL RECIPE

Asparagus with mousseline sauce

Celebrate English asparagus season by serving it with this rich, sophisticated sauce

While asparagus is now to be found in supermarkets all year round, the appearance of the first English asparagus in the garden and at local markets is a moment for celebration. Asparagus is delectable adorned merely with a pat of the finest salted butter, but to raise the bar, try it with mousseline sauce. “Everyone has had asparagus and hollandaise, so this isn’t a new idea,” explains Charlie Hibbert, head chef at Thyme. “It is, however, undeniably delicious. Mousseline takes the dish a step further with the addition of whipped cream folded through, making for an unbelievably rich and light sauce for spring vegetables.” SERVES 4 4 free-range egg yolks Juice of ½ a lemon 1 tbsp cold water 250g cold, unsalted butter, cubed 100ml whipping cream, whipped to soft peaks Sea salt flakes and freshly cracked black pepper 20 sticks of asparagus, tough ends snapped o Parmesan and olive oil for finishing

METHOD Fill a pot of water a third of the way up and bring it to a simmer over a medium heat. Put the egg yolks, lemon juice and cold water in a metal or heatproof bowl, and whisk them together. Place the bowl over the pot of water and continue to whisk the egg mixture vigorously, incorporating as much air as possible as it begins to cook. Make sure the eggs don’t get too hot or they will scramble – if they start to overheat, remove the bowl from the heat for a minute, continuing to whisk, then put it back over the pot.

After five minutes the mixture should be thicker and look silken. At this point, add the butter three cubes at a time. As the cubes start to melt, add in more and continue to whisk until the butter is fully incorporated. The cold butter will help to regulate the temperature. Remove what is now a hollandaise sauce from the heat and add salt and a little more lemon juice if required. Set this to one side.

Put the prepared asparagus into the simmering water and cook for four minutes. While this is happening, fold the cream gently through the hollandaise, turning it into mousseline. Drain the asparagus and dress with lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper. Arrange five spears on each plate, spoon over the mousseline sauce, or serve it in a separate pot for dipping. Finish with Parmesan cheese and a drizzle of olive oil. n

Dual Celebration

200 years ago, the Royal Horticultural Society created their first garden at Chiswick, the same year George Fergusson Wilson, Wisley’s creator, was born. Matthew Biggs explores their joint history

RHS Garden Wisley’s historic Laboratory building was once George Fergusson Wilson’s home.

In the late 18th century, John Wedgwood of the ceramic dynasty moved to Cole House near Bristol to pursue his interests in botany and horticulture. He also had other plans, writing to William Forsyth, head gardener to King George III, in a letter dated 29 June 1801: ‘I have been turning my attention to the formation of a Horticultural Society and have drawn up such heads as have appeared to me necessary for the first formation of the Society.’

On 7 March 1804, the Horticultural Society of London (later The Royal Horticultural Society) was founded in a room in what is now Hatchards, Piccadilly. The minutes note that the society was formed ‘for the improvement of horticulture in all its branches, ornamental as well as useful’, based on practice and observation. They discussed gardening, exhibited plants and listened to papers, mostly on fruit and vegetables, which were later published in the society’s Transactions. But they knew their ultimate success lay in ‘the establishment of an extensive garden, in which plants may be placed, their peculiarities honestly remarked and the requisite experiments carried under the immediate superintendence of its o cers’. As a learned society, they sought to trial new techniques and technology, including glasshouses and heating systems. 200 years ago this year, they took a 60-year lease of 33 acres of the Duke of Devonshire’s estate in Chiswick, West London and created their first garden. Half was dedicated to fruit and vegetables and 13 acres to flowers and shrubs, with an eight-acre arboretum. Fruit growing was a major focus and strawberry trials became prominent. The orchards, a ‘collection of fruit trees of all kinds that has perhaps never been equalled’ was overseen, with varieties trialled and assessed by Scotsman Robert Thompson. At the same time, exotic plants were arriving from around the world and it was incumbent on

Above With its range of habitats and situations, from streamside to woodland, Wisley made the perfect setting for the Society’s experimental garden. Below An 1826 plan of the Arboretum at the Society’s first trials garden, at Chiswick.

IMAGES RHS/JASON INGRAM; RHS LINDLEY COLLECTIONS/A. ARROWSMITH/A.H. CARLING the horticulturists to develop techniques to cultivate them successfully. There was great excitement when chrysanthemums and roses from China fl ourished, the latter blooming for longer than their western European counterparts. The fi rst fête (a forerunner of the Chelsea Flower Show), held in 1827, became one of the main events of the London ‘season’. Produce from the garden was displayed in large marquees and regimental bands entertained visitors.

The Society intended that the Chiswick Garden should become ‘a National School for the propagation of Horticultural Knowledge’. Undergardeners and labourers, recommended by the Fellows of the Society, were ‘duly instructed in the various practices of each department’. John Lindley, who was appointed assistant secretary in charge of plants in the garden, introduced a formal curriculum in 1836, including an oral exam covering accountancy, arithmetic, plan drawing, botany and vegetable physiology. Students became plant collectors, nurserymen and head gardeners to aristocrats, the most famous being Joseph Paxton.

Top left A glasshouse at the original Chiswick Garden bulges at the seams with perfectly grown plants. Top right Education has always been an RHS aim; students gather for a photograph outside Wisley’s Walled Garden. Above Prunus ‘Accolade’ and gunnera in Wisley’s Wild Garden in spring.

Above Wisley from above, showing the Glasshouse and nowcompleted landscaping and building work at the garden’s entrance. Left A bridge leads to the Wild Garden at Oakwood, pre-RHS. Below George Fergusson Wilson, who created the garden at Oakwood that later became Wisley.

In 1861 the RHS opened new gardens in Kensington, and by 1870 the garden at Chiswick was reduced to 11 acres, the glasshouses demolished and the arboretum swept away. By 1900 Chiswick was fast becoming swamped by an expanding London, so in 1904 the Society moved to Wisley, which was already an established experimentation garden.

George Fergusson Wilson (1822-1902), who was born 200 years ago this year, retired from his family candle-making fi rm in 1850. Using his knowledge as an industrial chemist, he made his own fortune. An RHS fellow, he was a committed ‘scientifi c gardener’ who meticulously recorded the details of his experiments and shared his results.

When land and a small farm at Wisley came on the market in 1878, he saw its potential, writing: ‘From being an old inventor and experimentalist, I could see and use our advantages of soils and situations… I saw in the old undisturbed oak wood, such vegetation, showing the richness of soil… I can make such a garden as has not been made before.’

George Wilson bought the land and rented out most of its 60 acres for farming apart from one carefully selected part of the estate, which he transformed into the Oakwood Experimental Garden. He identifi ed eight soil types and a diverse range of conditions in light and shade for experimentation, adding mounds, ponds and ditches to create perfect environments to experiment with growing ‘di cult plants successfully’.

Far left Japanese irises thriving beside a pond at Wisley, and revealing which conditions suit them best. Left George Fergusson Wilson was one of the fi rst to trial growing newly introduced water lilies in Wisley’s ponds. Below Wisley’s Long Ponds can still be seen today, at the foot of the iconic Rock Garden.

He grew a range of lily species in the woodland at a time when they were grown in glasshouses, and the garden gained a reputation for its range of quality plants. He was infl uenced by William Robinson’s naturalistic approach to horticulture in his creation of a Wild Garden. One visitor noted: ‘Seedlings are springing up in all directions, and one is almost afraid to step lest some precious gem be crushed.’

Wilson also experimented with water gardening, creating the Long Ponds and growing bog plants and gunnera. He also tested exotic aquatics, including hybrid water lilies, and discovered that growing Japanese Irises in water margins was key to success.

Many Happy Returns

Celebrating other significant anniversaries in 2022

Happy birthday to The Cottage Garden Society, celebrating 40 years since its foundation. thecottagegardensociety.org.uk It’s 20 years since Majestic Trees in Hertfordshire was set up by Steve and Janet McCurdy to supply top-quality mature trees. majestictrees.co.uk Garden centre chain Notcutts is commemorating 125 years of retailing this year, with events across its 18 stores. notcutts.co.uk The National Trust’s Plant Conservation Centre, where the rare and historic plants in its collections are propagated and safeguarded, turns 40 this year. David Austin marks 60 years of its famous Handbook of Roses with a special, commemorative 60th edition. davidaustinroses.co.uk

At the time of his death in 1902, the RHS had been searching for a rural location ‘beyond the radius of the London smoke’. A year after Wilson’s death, Sir Thomas Hanbury, a prosperous silk merchant bought Wisley and nearby Glebe Farm and presented it to the Society, having been encouraged to do so by plantswoman and gardener, Ellen Willmott, who became one of the fi rst trustees.

Among the fi rst major projects, in 1905, was the construction of a range of glasshouses on what is now the Jellicoe Canal, followed by the Rock Garden, for which a light railway was constructed to move the huge Sussex sandstone blocks. Over the past 100 years, the RHS has expanded the original garden with entirely new landscapes such as the Pinetum, installed the Glasshouse and kept the scientifi c spirit of the Society alive with the RHS Plant Trials, the School of Horticulture and now RHS Hilltop, continuing their commitment to practical, scientifi c gardening, a legacy of the fi rst garden in Chiswick and George Fergusson Wilson, whose anniversaries are celebrated this year. n

SPRING REACH NURSERY

A plant fanatic’s paradise on the edge of the beautiful Surrey Hills, just 10 minutes from the A3/ M25. Brilliant home grown shrubs, climbers, grasses, perennials, roses, ferns, trees, hedging and fruit, plus these May starlets: Astrantia ‘Gill Richardson’, alliums, bearded iris, Paeonia ‘Sarah Bernhardt’, Viburnum macrocephalum, Japanese and Chinese wisterias, and new season Japanese acers and trees also now in stock.

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THORNCROFT CLEMATIS & CLIMBERS

We are the UK’s leading clematis specialist with nearly 40 years of experience growing and selling high quality clematis and climbers. We are proud to have an excellent reputation, not only for the quality of the plants we sell but also the high standard of service we give our customers. We have 12 Gold Medals at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show, adding to a vast array of awards from other exhibitions and events, including a major award for our mail order service. We do not open our nursery but a Click & Collect service is now available.

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BEETHAM NURSERIES

Beetham Nurseries is a familyowned, independent Garden Centre and Growing Nursery on the A6 in south Cumbria, just four miles from the M6 motorway. Established in 1984, we are proud to offer our customers something different and unique. The Growing Nursery is a traditional retail plant nursery where you will find thousands of herbaceous perennials; they will always be interesting and grown by us here at Beetham Nurseries. Plants are our passion, we invite you to see for yourself the spectacular selection that we grow and the high standards we go to in order to grow plants that are of the highest quality.

Tel: 015395 63630 www.beethamnurseries.co.uk Pool Darkin Lane, Beetham, Nr Milnthorpe, Cumbria LA7 7AP

BLUEBELL ARBORETUM & NURSERY

Specialists in hardy trees, shrubs and climbers including a huge selection of unusual and rare species and varieties. Expert advice is available from our helpful staff. The nursery is surrounded by a nine-acre woodland garden (RHS Partner Garden), and visitors are welcome all year round. Informative website and reliable mail order service if you would like plants delivered.

LANGTHORNS PLANTERY

With an eye for the unusual and a vast range of plants of all sizes, the team at Langthorns Plantery are on hand to help you choose the right plants for your gardens. Our collection of more than 5,000 varieties includes ornamental and fruit trees, shrubs, perennials, roses, climbers, bamboos, grasses, herbs and wildflowers. View online or visit our Plantery and enjoy some fresh air in the beautiful Essex countryside. OPEN: Every Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 5pm. Closed Mondays.

Tel: 01371 872611 info@langthorns.com | www.langthorns.com High Cross Lane West, Dunmow, Essex CM6 1TD

HEDGING UK

Hedging UK are specialist growers of quality hedging plants. Plants are available to purchase at wholesale prices across the UK through our mail order service. Buy direct from the grower, delivered direct to your door. Readers of The English Garden get a 5% discount (quote TEG2022).

Tel: 01704 827224 or 07789 922457 sales@hedginguk.com | www.hedginguk.com Boundary House Farm, Holmeswood Road, Holmeswood, Lancashire L40 1UA

DENMANS GARDEN

Created by Joyce Robinson, a pioneer in gravel gardening, and former home of influential landscape designer, John Brookes MBE, Denmans is a Grade II-registered post-war garden renowned for its curvilinear layout and complex plantings. Enjoy colour, unusual plants, structure and fragrance in the gravel gardens, intimate Walled Garden, ponds and Conservatory. Browse Denmans-grown plants, vintage garden ornaments, gadgets and house accessories in the gift shop and plant centre. OPEN: Year round. See website for details.

Tel: 01243 278 950 www.denmans.org | office@denmans.org Denmans Lane, Fontwell, Nr. Arundel BN18 0SU

ASHWOOD NURSERIES

A plantsman’s paradise and an independent nursery situated in the West Midlands open seven days a week. We specialise in hellebores, hardy cyclamen, salvias, hepaticas, lewisias, hydrangeas, dwarf conifers, snowdrops, Primula auricula and many more beautiful plants. Our UK mail order service sends plants, garden essentials and gifts direct to your doorstep. John’s Garden is also open on Saturdays 10am-4pm. Please visit our website for full details.

Tel: 01384 401996 mailorder@ashwoodnurseries.com | www.ashwoodnurseries.com Ashwood Lower Lane, Kingswinford, West Midlands DY6 0AE

HESTERCOMBE GARDENS

Hestercombe’s 50 acres of gardens are simply delightful. Nestled away in the heart of the Somerset countryside, its exquisite period and landscape gardens span three centuries of history and design. Throughout the majestic formal gardens, Gertrude Jekyll’s striking, ‘vibrating’ colour schemes perfectly complement Lutyens’ masterly hard landscaping. Find inner peace and tranquillity as you meander through the lush Georgian Landscape Garden, with ‘borrowed’ views from each of the exotic seats exuding unique magnificence. OPEN: 10am - 6pm (last entry 4.30pm)

CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY BOTANIC GARDEN

Cambridge University Botanic Garden is one of the largest Universityowned botanic gardens in the world. Over 8,000 species spread over 40 acres of beautiful gardens and glasshouses in the centre of Cambridge offer year-round interest and inspiration. Highlights include our Scented Garden; Bee Borders; Dry Garden; Lake, Glasshouse range and Rising Path. OPEN: 7 days a week from 10am

Tel: 01223 336265 enquiries@botanic.cam.ac.uk | www.botanic.cam.ac.uk 1 Brookside, Cambridge CB2 1JE

WATERPERRY GARDENS

Waterperry Gardens –eight acres of spectacular ornamental gardens with a fascinating history and one of the country’s finest herbaceous borders – blooming with lupins and alliums at this time of year. There is a Plant Centre, Garden Shop, Gift Barn, Gallery, Rural Life Museum and Teashop on site. You will find a full programme of year-round events, from horticulturally themed weekends to outdoor theatre, opera and concerts. OPEN: 10am to 5.30pm. Party bookings welcome by arrangement.

Tel: 01844 339254 office@waterperrygardens.co.uk | www.waterperrygardens.co.uk Waterperry, Near Wheatley, Oxfordshire OX33 1LA

HEVER CASTLE & GARDENS

Spring is a wonderful time to vist Hever Castle, when spectacular carpets of daffodils welcome visitors. Walls are covered in camellias and tulips are in full bloom, as are the azaleas, rhododendrons and wisteria. Colourful spring bedding includes hyacinths, wallflowers and pansies. OPEN: See website for details

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