It was acceptable in the 70s: Cherwell’s guide to 70s fashion

This year I have noticed vehement discourse surrounding one of the university’s most iconic and yet controversial items of clothing. No, I’m not talking about scholar’s gowns, although they’re up there on the list. I’m talking about college puffer jackets. I don’t know whether College Puffer Discourse is an age-old thing, because quite frankly I don’t even know when and how they first came about – shockingly enough, there is no Wikipedia page on college stash. However, lately my Facebook feed has been inundated with Oxfesses criticising students who choose to sport college puffer jackets (amongst other things, namely those annoying ‘XYZ as colleges’ lists, please don’t even get me started on them).

The author of #oxfess11746, for example, claims that anybody who wears a college puffer is a so-called ‘NPC’ to them. For those unfamiliar with the term NPC, it comes from ‘non-player character’ in video games and describes a computercontrolled background character. In the context of the real world, it means that you are a spineless person who lacks critical thinking – basically, the opposite of the Main Character. Just thinking of being called an NPC makes me shudder. I could not think of a worse insult. Shortly after the publication of said Oxfess, some countered back: the author of #oxfess11796 edited the original post by claiming that if you don’t wear a college puffer, you’re an NPC. Clearly, opinions are very divided. Another person sought to settle the debate via a somewhat inconclusive vote based on Facebook reactions, but personally I think this issue should be fought out in a good old Union debate.

Here’s where I throw in my own two cents. Actually, I mean a lot more than just two cents because as one of Cherwell’s fashion editors, I’m obviously the definitive authority on Oxford student fashion. Even if one of our other editors is very much opposed to college puffers. Sorry Madi, your views don’t count right now - everyone has to agree with me. Am I only writing all of this because I want to feel better about myself for owning one? Probably.

First and foremost, I would argue that puffer jackets in general are really some of the most versatile and practical forms of outerwear, but college puffers are even more so. Mine has practically saved my life on every night out. The very large side pockets are brilliant for holding your phone/keys/lip balm/wallet/ID/a snack/ basically everything you need. For some extra security, there is a handy inner pocket where you can keep some of the more valuable stuff. Weirdly enough there’s even a large zip across the back, which I haven’t been brave enough to use yet but I have been told that it’s quite useful for carrying alcohol, so do with that what you will. My college puffer is also probably the warmest item of clothing I own, so it’s even better for going out because I can trek across Oxford to Parkend without freezing

Wearing your name on your sleeve: In defence of the college puffer whilst carrying all the essentials, ditch it in the cloakroom for a mere £2, pick it up at the end of the night and go home. I can honestly say that my puffer has kept me alive through storm Eunice; I haven’t worn Iustina Roman stands strong for stash! Never fear, any of my other coats these past two weeks. Christ Church students, she has your back. Now you might be thinking: is that all she has to say? College puffers are only good for going out? Well of course, there’s a lot more than that, which is where I come on to the most important and controversial aspect of these pieces – why would you walk around with a coat embroidered with your college and initials? It’s sooo tacky and cringe. Maybe you’re right. Maybe it is obnoxious to walk around being labelled with your name and college crest. But it’s also exciting. Most people, myself included, purchase a puffer in Michaelmas of their first year. I personally remember seeing all the students walking around with theirs during interviews and thinking ‘this is so cool’. I might have been 17 at the time, but that same excitement got to me when I first saw the stash order form being posted on my JCR group a year later. Personalising my order, I began to daydream of all the Oxloves I would be receiving once random people in the city could pick me out: “IRR @StA - I was absolutely enamoured as I walked past you outside Pret on Cornmarket Street. Would love to get coffee with you sometime and then offer you all my devotion and firstborn child because you’re literally the coolest person I’ve ever seen.” The possibilities were endless. Needless to say, I am still yet to receive an Oxlove, which is a huge disappointment and kind of defeats most of the point of wearing a puffer. So, if you’re reading this, you know what to do. Whilst I don’t condone profiling and judging people based on their college, I will add that being able to know which college someone goes to is kind of useful, in a non-stalker way. Now I can steer clear of some Christchurch College students just by seeing that ridiculous coat of arms emblazoned on their chest (seriously, why is it so extravagant? And no offence to Christchurch students because some of you are decent people this is just jokes). I guess it’s just fun for my nosy self to know where people go. Having a personalised puffer unique to you does also make it very steal-proof, because walking around wearing one with a different person’s name and college is pretty bait. So even if you do happen to lose it in a random cloakroom or at a bop, chances are that you will be eventually reunited – co-editor Ciara can tell you all about her experience with losing a puffer. Did I just write an entire article based off anonymous submissions on a Facebook page? I have spent so long on Oxfess that if I see Timothée Chalamet’s name one more time I might just scream. Seriously though, ultimately it just really isn’t that deep. Let people do what they want! I won’t accept being judged by someone who owns a North Face puffer jacket. The only difference between you and me is that you paid about £200 more to look just as basic, so get off your high horse. Is this issue then just another product of the individuality complexes afflicting far too many of our Oxford students today? I would say so. Realistically, I don’t think we’ll be seeing the downfall of college puffers any time soon, as it appears that each year freshers are equally excited to get their hands on one. Since we buy them, we might as well get good use out of them! They are practical and versatile, whether you refuse to wear yours outside of Oxford or proudly take it with you wherever you go. Embrace your puffer jacket complete with the embroidered initials and college – but maybe not if you’re at Christchurch or have four letters on your chest.

It was acceptable in the 70s: Cherwell’s 70s ‘how to’ guide

Our expert fashion editors have put forward their favorite aspects of 70s style to channel your inner Beatle, Bowie and Barbara Beach.

Seventies STYLE – HOW TO So you want to get the look shown on our gorgeous cast of in-and-outhouse models. Here are some top tips to getting that groovy seventies style:

Charity Shops

First of all, you have to know where to get what you need. As anyone who reads this page consistently may have guessed, we are all big advocates for charity shops. The majority of what our lovely models are wearing is sourced from them – actual vintage is super expensive, but you can find a lot of good stuff – all manner of funky shirts and jackets in particular – in the local BHF. Word to the wise – the further out of central you go, the better the things you’ll find.

Colours

brightest assortment of clear, bright colours possible, and a good way to stop it being too overwhelming is to pick items with different textures, which you’d think would send it over the top but somehow is actually a very good way to keep an outfit cohesive. Or you go for the palette modelled here on Jon Starkey – fifty shades of brown. People tend to forget, but this was actually a very popular shade in the mid-70s, and it can be a good way to edge into the decade if flamboyancy isn’t quite your thing.

Fur

Now, this one is a little controversial – fur is, after all, the victim of PETAs only successful campaign. But nothing says 70s louder – and you can always go faux (can you tell whose is fake and whose is real in the photos ?). I also think that if you can get it (and a lot of places do sell it for super cheap - because of how unpopular it became right after its 70s heyday) vintage fur is Not That Bad, because as it’s already been made, it’s pretty eco-friendly to give it a second life – and faux fur doesn’t biodegrade. You can chuck one over pretty much anything, and it’ll give you an instant 70s feel.

Now for a run through of the looks:Luke Moore is styled in a charity shop rose printed shirt, styled with a seventies style green snakeskin belt, pink graphic liner and a diamanté choker, alongside Ciara’s Monki leopard print coat. Ciara Beale wears an ABBA-esque vintage flared denim jumpsuit from Depop with an embroidered dog print waistcoat (which proves controversial amongst her most fashionable friends) and chunky snakeskin belt, with her mum’s vintage silver boots. Rachie Ing rocks velvet paisley flares, an orange dip-dyed and embellished vest top from a charity shop (originally Karen Millen), and Jon’s charity shop brown cord coat. She is styled with Ciara’s homemade yellow scrunchie, oversized hoops and neon graphic liner. Alfred Dry wears a navy satin shirt with silver wide leg trousers and is accessorized with his own silver rhinestone-encrusted necklace and face rhinestones. Madi Hopper’s trousers were her friend’s stepmum’s in the seventies (!) and her tops are charity shop purchases – Madi’s look is full of colour and proof that colour clashing is a myth. Jon Starkey’s look owes itself exclusively to Weymouth ‘s finest charity shops (apparently the best charity shops in the country – can anyone else confirm?), and his look is a masterclass in layering, with various knitted pieces, a whole lot of jewellery and a stunning brown leather bomber. Iustina Roman went for the preppy side of seventies style, with a head to toe purple look (literally).

Setting the bar high: On running the college bar

Jill Cushen speaks to the bar managers of Regent’s Park and Balliol bars about the job, the drinks and the joy of running a student bar.

Nestled behind the dreaming spires, cobbled streets and well-kept quads are some of the most beloved, and most frequented, spots in Oxford - college bars.

Serving as a venue for members to socialise and drink at Spoons rivalling prices, almost all colleges have a cherished bar, but few remain student run. Solely in the name of a journalistic endeavour, I took it upon myself to visit two such bars, spend another evening surrounded by alcohol under the pretence of it being my Cherwell duty, and find out exactly what it means to run a student bar.

Regent’s Bar, or what was more recently named ‘Manny’s Shell’, is one of the cheapest bars in Oxford, sitting snug behind the College’s JCR. Bar Manager Amelia Sellors runs a tight ship, and tells me that it’s her job to keep the bar running ‘no matter what it takes’.

‘We pride ourselves on having the cheapest drinks in Oxford. £1 a shot, mixer is free, £1.90 a pint. The prices are unbeatable - it’s because each year we aren’t trying to make a profit. It’s just a pub for the students to enjoy however they wish.’

The bar’s motto is ‘cheap and cheerful’ but there’s more to it than low prices and chipper bartenders. From ordering stock and dealing with suppliers, to the maintenance, cleaning and training of the staff of twelve, running the college bar is no mean feat. ‘It’s for the students by the students’, Amelia says, ‘And to make sure the bar stays fun, you have to be pretty rigorous about the behind the scenes stuff’.

I wonder what kind of bar manager she is. Feared, she says, and given that one of her many nicknames in the bar is ‘Mussomimi’, I’m inclined to agree: ‘It would also be a bit egotistical to say I’m beloved. I’d say as long as the bar is beloved then I’m happy.’

Even on a quiet Monday evening, Regent’s Bar is cosy and lively. The small, woodpanelled room is decorated with old photos of the college, a collage of many flattering photos of its patrons and an array of other random objects. It’s proximity to the JCR means that if you’re not vibing with the staff’s eclectic mix of tunes in the bar, you can have a game of ping-pong, table football or darts. I’m also informed that the Wii is the greatest thing to come to Regents since Manny the tortoise.

Allowing the powers of Regent’s most popular drink, ‘The Dizzi’, to kick in, I head over to Balliol to see if the incumbent Lady Lindsay, Hannah O’Connor, is running the bar into the ground or just running it beneath the ground. ‘The Lindsay’ has long been a famously good watering hole, and after being shut for over two years due to water damage and a refurbishment, it is back and better than ever.

A world away from the intimacy of Regent’s, Balliol’s bar is a spacious underground haunt. Serving up a spectacular line up of drinks from the legendary ‘Balliol Blues’ to Lady Lindsay’s experimental peach margaritas, the bar has a sophisticated air but is equally welcoming and spirited.

While the cocktails are shaken, I ask around among the many unbiased customers what makes Balliol bar so special. ‘I just love it here’ a non-Balliol reveller tells me, ‘it’s the vibe, I don’t ever want to leave when I come in’. The best thing about Balliol bar? After the drinks, it’s Lady Lindsay herself, I’m told.

‘I’ve managed to make the bar profitable without losing any of its essence’, Hannah says. ‘There are no frills, it’s just a great space and should be a place that students want to go to. I do put a lot of work in but it gives me such joy when I see it bustling with people all drinking and having a good time’.

I listen to the pair complain about the weight of their duties, dealing with irritable suppliers and the recklessness of certain bar users. So why do it? Why have a student run bar if it’s just another headache? Spending the evening in the bars, I get the sense that both bar bosses manage to blend the fun and chaos of the job with the gravity of the responsibility. ‘You don’t rant about something you don’t care about’, Amelia tells me, ‘It really doesn’t make sense to have a college bar run by students, it’s not rational but there’s something irreplaceable about it. Because we’re student run, we’ve got something that no other bar has - a lot of love and pride for it and that’s what makes it so special.’

Ingredients for the filling

400ml of chicken stock 3 chicken breasts, diced 150g ham, roughly diced into 2cm pieces (Danish Ham works particularly well in terms of texture and chunkiness) 75g of butter 2 trimmed leeks, cut into 1cm slices 2 garlic cloves, crushed 60g of plain flour 200ml semi-skimmed milk 150ml of double cream Salt and pepper, to taste

Ingredients for the pastry

350g plain four, with extra for dusting 200g of butter 2 eggs - one should be whisked, and set aside for glazing the pastry later, and the other should be beaten together with a tablespoon of cold water Or, if you’re hungry and want dinner to get to the table quickly like me… enough Jus-Rol premade pastry to cover your pie dish.

For the filling:

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C, 170°C for fan ovens.

Recipe

Chicken, ham, and leek pie

2. Add the diced chicken breast to your pan and cook gently,before adding the chicken stock and bringing to a low simmer. You want to cook this for about 10-15 minutes, before removing the contents and setting to one side - the cooking juices will come in handy for later! 3. In a large saucepan, melt 25g of the butter. Once it’s melted, add in the chopped leek before sweating them gently for two minutes. 4. Add the garlic and cook for a few more minutes. Next add the remaining butter, and once melted add the flour gradually in order to begin thickening the sauce to make a roux. This is where it gets handson; make sure to keep stirring from this point onwards to avoid any lumps in your sauce. 5. Now keep stirring whilst adding the milk into the pan a little at a time, mixing well to bind everything together. Simmer for three minutes, stirring occasionally. To taste, add some salt and black pepper to the sauce, which now should be thickening nicely. Once thickened, take it off the heat and stir in the double cream. Set this mixture to the side, and make sure to cover it with clingfilm in order to prevent a skin from forming on the top. 6. If you’re making your pastry from scratch, add the flour and butter into a food processor and blend together. You’re aiming to get close to a breadcrumb texture, so blitz until the mixture looks quite fine. One you reach this stage, add the beaten egg and water into the blender and blitz again until it starts to come together and becomes ball-shaped. 7. When baking this recipe with my Nana in the past, we normally found that 250g of dough would be enough to cover the top of a 10 inch round pie dish. This depends on what you’ve got in the cupboard for baking this, so it might take a little time to play around and find out what works best for the dish you’ve got. 8. With the remaining pastry, roll it out onto a lightly floured surface, making sure to turn the pastry frequently until around 5mm thick and 4cm larger than the pie dish. Now time for the tricky part - you need to lift the pastry over the rolling pin, and try your best to lower it gently into the pie dish. Once it’s gently tucked into the bowl, make sure to push firmly down on all sides to make the pastry base for the bottom of your pie. Ideally, you want to make sure there are no air bubbles left over, but one or two little ones won’t hurt. Any leftover pastry that hangs over the side of the dish can be left if you’d like the pie to have more of a rustic look to it, but any major overhang can be trimmed off. From here, add your pre-cooked chicken into the dish, then the sauce on top. Coat the rim of the pastry with beaten egg. 9. The final touch is to cover the pie with the pastry lid and firmly press the edges together. Using fingers for this is fine, but if you’d like a more decorative effect then you can also use a fork. Before coating the pastry with the beaten egg mentioned earlier, it might be a nice little addition to your pie to add some decorative features from the leftover pastry; 10. Pop your finished pie into the oven for another 35-40 minutes.

On groping bouncers and ticked boxes: Hypocrisy in Oxford’s nightclubs

Hannah Lund tells a story of misogyny and violence at one of Oxford’s biggest nightclubs.

CW: sexual assault Women want to be able to look and feel good when going on a night out and not be sexually assaulted. What if I told you the two actually are not mutually exclusive?

From a woman’s perspective, the efforts of clubs like Bridge to prevent sexual violence feel more like an effort to tick boxes, rather than actually supporting and helping their female customers. How are we meant to feel safe when those who are meant to protect us turn out to be the worst offenders?

After a long night bopping in Bridge, I headed for the exit thinking only about whether I should get cheese or garlic mayo on my chips from McCoys. I asked the bouncers at the exit to open the metal gates so I could be let out, but not before one managed to get a firm feel of my firm behind, while I struggled to push this lump of a man off me. The issue wasn’t helped by the (at least four) other bouncers watching him who did not stop smiling or laughing for a second to get him off me. It is easier to be satirical, and I know it helps me to talk about it, but on a serious note I cannot see any way in which his action could be justified, and believe me I have thought it through a lot. He was in the position of power, and abused that power by feeling up a drunk, alone girl.

Fast forward a few weeks and I had finally regrown my lady balls enough to return to Bridge for another Bop. While bad bitch behaviour provides many superpowers, drunk bladder control is sadly not one, so I recruited my male friend to come to the toilets with me. Now I could have gone to the bathroom alone, however being alone in a club I was recently assaulted in didn’t really appeal to me. Pee complete, we returned to Spirit together to regain our status of ‘not-boring third years’, only to be immediately kicked out of the club by a male bouncer. Were my friend and I a threat to the people in Bridge – as I could have been sexually assaulted by him? As you may know, there is no gender-neutral bathroom in bridge, so my options to feel safe and to go to the bathroom were limited. I justified our joint toilet trip using ‘grope-gate’, only for the bouncer to reply, ‘well I’ve not heard about this so that doesn’t matter here’. Their resolution to the incident was to kick me out the club, with nobody else there or to walk home with none other than the man they said could have

hypothetically abused me in the bathroom. I was told that my sexual assault, which occurred in their venue, ‘didn’t matter’, and what makes me the angriest is that they acted like the biggest threat to me was myself and my friends, rather than their own staff.

I work hard both physically and mentally to have a body that I feel confident in. So not only do I love feeling and looking drastically better than my mid-lecture, half-asleep state, but I also bloody love seeing my girlfriends out in the club looking confident too. Sequin covered tops. Short cut skirts. Low cut tops to get the ‘ladies’ out. High slit skirts which would make my Nanna say, ‘oh love do you need to borrow a needle and thread?’. EXQUISITE. Nights out should be about being able to dress up however you want to and feel confident and safe enough to go out with friends, get a bit too tiddled and have fun. Half of the student body is excluded from this privilege, simply because they have so many more aspects of a night out to consider and worry about compared to most males.

Clubs like Bridge advertise ‘protective’ strategies as a way to gain women›s trust, hence continuing to buy tickets and keep their revenue flowing. My truth is that they could not give two hoots about the welfare and security of their female guests. I do wonder if they have ever bothered to survey female students to see what would actually make them feel safe and supported in a club.

I can guarantee that even I will be back in Bridge sooner or later, albeit glaring at the bouncers a little bit harsher and holding in a wee so I don’t get kicked out or left alone feeling unsafe. So, if you see me bopping in my favourite low-cut top and trousers that fit *just right*, just know it is a very strong act of feminism.

Horoscopes...

SCORPIO

23 Oct - 21 Nov

I have also heard some funny stories concerning Prosecco for you too. Now I don’t know if the rumors are true, but they are bringing me so much joy. Sort out the Prosecco and all shall align in your life.

CAPRICORN

22 Dec - 19 Jan

The vac is so close, please hold on darling. Think of sunny skies, cute butterflies, and Eunicefree breezes. Take this upcoming time off to relax and come back stronger than ever for Trinity. She’s going to be a doozey. GEMINI

CANCER

21 June - 22 July

After Eunice, the planets are trying to realign themselves, so as you can imagine, things are a bit whack right now. Unlike the other signs, you just can’t help but worry about this so continue as you were. It will end soon.

AQUARIUS

20 Jan - 18 Feb

You may feel as if someone has played a cruel trick on you this week. It’s just the stars darling. No tricks, just treats for you my dear. And remember, f*** the world and don’t forget to eat.

LEO

23 July - 22 August

TAURUS

20 April - 20 May

It is officially time for Hot Girl Hilary! It has been a long-time coming for you, but you are finally ready to let your hair down and let the Saturday night Fever commence. And just like that, you have found your groove again!

SAGITTARIUS

22 Nov - 21 Dec

As a wise woman (Katy Perry of course) has said, ‘Baby you are a firework’. Let the world see that. Sometimes you need to calm it with the dance mum enthusiasm, and other times you need to dial it way up: ‘Come on let your colours burst’.

LIBRA

23 Sept - 22 Oct 21 May- 20 June

I have heard that you will have some wild encounters with some Prosecco (don’t worry, all positive). This will become a funny story down the line, but as of now both me and the cosmos are utterly confused.

VIRGO

23 August - 22 Sept

I honestly have heard from the cosmos that your flatmate has a bigger butt than you. Now, we can’t all be winners sweetie. Just take the L and move on. Instead, focus all your energy on showing your amazing personality.

Worrying doesn’t help sweetie. Find power in routine and get out of that slump you have been in lately. I find that a good power walk down High Street always does the trick for me.

ARIES

I have heard you giggling alone in your room: some people would call that sad but I’m here to pick you up sweetie. Don’t listen to the haters, laugh by yourself in your room and make your flatmate concerned. That’s life.

PISCES

19 Feb - 20 March

Please light a vibey candle and dance in your underwear tonight (in your room and by yourself of course). This sacred little ‘casual magic’ ritual will brighten up your day, especially if you have ‘Bad Day’ by Alvin and the Chipmunks playing.

21 March- 19 April

You have been out of balance for the past few weeks and there is nothing you can say to yourself that will change that. It is okay. Take a death breath, find your inner peace and take up the next essay crisis with a smile.