PORTFOLIO
Chhail Khalsa
TEXTILE DESIGN Chhail Khalsa
GRADUATION PROJECT As a part of my Graduation project, I worked with a Research facility at the Lucerne University of Applied Sciences and Arts (HOCHSCHULE LUZERN), Lucerne, Switzerland. This project allowed me to work with a new prototype printing technology that has recently been developed at the research centre. My project brief involved me to work first hand with this technology to develop innovative surfaces, treatments and textures. The idea here was to create effects using the machine that could not be recreated using conventional printing techniques. The end result of my project was a collection of successful explorations which clearly describe the potential of the machine and this was done using both regular and smart ink pigments. Working in this project allowed me to explore and understand the world of applied design research. Since the project is under an NDA (Non-disclosure Agreement) I can only share selected information here.
PROJECT BRIEF To explore the DAFAT machine in order to come up with an aesthetic innovation comprising of textures and concepts that cannot be replicated by using conventional print techniques.
WHAT IS DAFAT? Digitale Applikation von Farbe Auf Textil (German) Digital Application of Color onto Fabric (English translation) DAFAT (digital application of colour onto fabric) is a recent innovation in print design that challenges the concept of contemporary print design as we know it. Bringing print design further than flat form onto fabric the innovation in DAFAT breaks all boundaries that have been established by technicalities such as use of a certain viscosity for a certain technique, type and texture of fabric etc. Allowing a textile designer to work with 3 axis’s namely X, Y and Z to create patterns and textures which are unexplored in the field of textile design till date.
EXPLORING DAFAT Since the brief involved me to work with a prototype machine which has not been explored before, I decided to develop a mood board to guide my explorations. The idea here was to combine indian aesthetics and inspirations with a new generation technology. Jaali is a very beautiful concept that uses perforations which are placed to provide maximum aesthetic impact. Mughal jaalis in particular are usually geometric owing to religious reasons. I decided to make this my starting point because it has a great combination of simplicity and aesthetics. Geometric patterns are fairly easier to translate and since this was a research project the focus was more on the substance in the explorations rather than aesthetics.
MOOD-BOARD
This slide provides an overview of the explorations for analysis. Succesful explorations were shortlisted and explored further systematically.
Exploration analysis
This particular table describes the combination of pigments and fabrics tried in the explorations. The idea here was to experiment especially with fabrics that are unprintable using conventional print techniques. Fabrics such as textured faux leather, faux fur, lace etc. were explored using the DAFAT machine. A variety of print pigments including some smart inks were used to create the exploration samples.
Pastes Fabrics COTTON COTTON KNIT DENIM POLYSATIN FELT FAUX FUR CREPE LIGHT COTTON REXIN COTTON SATIN LACE DEVORE NYLON
PRINTPERFEKT EX AIR
HYDROCHROMIC INK
TUBILAC
COLOR 5000
NIGHT-LIGHT PIGMENT
FAT PRINT
DEVORE
THERMOCHROMIC INK
FINAL COLLECTION Taking further the learnings and the succesful explorations from the preliminary exploration excercise this final collection was developed. This collection more than being an aesthetic collection is a collection of the potential of the machine. Each fabric in this collection documents and describes a certain quality of the machine which comes together as a part of a whole collection of capabilities. Although as mentioned before the intention of this collection was not aecthetic primarily; in order to make it intresting even aesthetically some fabrics in this collection have been done in combination of Digital prints. The combination of the 2D Digital prints and 3D DAFAT comes together beautifully to create engaging pieces
MOOD-BOARD PRINTS
Textures
TRELLIS
GEOMETRICS
PERFORATIONS
COLOURFUL
NEUTRAL FORMS
GRADATION
REPEATS
BASIC SHAPES
LAYERING
BACKGROUND
LIGHT AND SHADE
MULTIPLE SHADES
FINAL COLLECTION FABRICS
FINAL COLLECTION FABRICS
FINAL COLLECTION ANALYSIS SAMPLE NUMBER
BASE FABRIC
PASTES USED
REASON
SAMPLE 1
Digital printed Cretonne
Photochromic + Ex-air
• Same fabric, two phases • Textured spray, photochromic ink
SAMPLE 2
Digital printed Cretonne
Ex-air in Black
• Match the two digitally placed patterns, after processing the fabric in between
SAMPLE 3
Digital printed Cretonne
Ex-air in Natural
• To confirm the above statement : Match the two digitally placed patterns, after processing the fabric in between
Ex-air in Black
• To check if the machine is capable of going beyond the topical aesthetic application to something that alters the very nature of the fabric
Night light pigment
• Apart from lending the fabric two different looks, the idea was to explore more textures using the machine that give it an edge over the conventional technologies
Night light pigment
• One of the major capabilites of the machine include the freedom of using a wide variety of base fabrics regardless of texture etc. This sample explores rexin.
SAMPLE 4
SAMPLE 5
SAMPLE 6
THUMBNAIL
Plain White crepe
Black knit cotton
White Rexin
SAMPLE NUMBER
THUMBNAIL
BASE FABRIC
PASTES USED
REASON
SAMPLE 7
Cotton satin Grey
Ex-air in Black
• This sample explores a variety of spray qualities along with moulded lines in order to create an overall 3D texture using the Ex-air print pigment
SAMPLE 8
Digital printed crepe
Ex-air in Black
• Taking the idea of sample 4 forward this sample was done to localise the effect and document the result in the form of a design alphabet.
SAMPLE 9
Digital printed cotton
Ex-air in Orange
• Exploring the former idea, this exploration was done to see if the same was true for all lightwieght fabrics such as crepe.
SAMPLE 10
Digital printed cotton
Ex-air in Natural
• The machine by far has been capable of linear forms. This was done to see if we can use the limitation of the machine to create overall textures.
SAMPLE 11
Digital printed crepe
Ex-air in Natural
• The idea here was to create mountain like forms using the Ex-air and the crepe
SAMPLE 12
Polyester satin plain
Photochromic + Fat print
• Here the machine has again been used to create the fabric with 2 distinct phases: One 3D and the other photochromatic
SAMPLE 13
Polyester satin plain
Photochromic
• Here the machine has again been used to create the fabric with 2 distinct phases: One flat and the other photochromatic with spray
RE-DISCOVERING INDIGO Concept
Explorations
The concept here was explore the technique of Indigo dyeing to create new effects. These effects were achieved by resisting the oxidisation of indigo after dyeing by using various methods such as pleating, screen printing gum on the fabric, arashi shibori etc. The final exploration here was done as a combination of 4 techniques; printing pleating and stitching dyeing and opening the pleats in certain areas. The idea here was to get a much brighter print in between the pleats by resisting the dye. This was further taken forward into a garment (jacket).
Final exploration
Sketches
Final product
SOFT FURNISHINGS
FINAL PRINTS
Concept Taking this project up as a freelance designer, the objective was to design soft furnishings for a teenage girls room. The girl who was meant to occupy this room was 16 at the time and the idea here was to design the furnishings in such a way that she doesn’t grow out of it too soon. The prints were kept fun and mature at the same time. I specifically made sure that the prints don’t turn out to be childish and since my client was at an age where she was just growing out of her teenage years keeping the print rather simple was important. I chose birds as my inspiration since they are fun and can work for broader age group span. Since the room was kept plain otherwise I had the freedom to chose my color palette as well. I combined ombre dyed sheers to go on the four poster bed along with the bird print furnishings.
MOOD-BOARD
Print for Euro cushion
Print for pillow cover
Print for Bed runner
FINAL LAYOUT
ACTUAL PHOTOS
SOFT FURNISHINGS Concept As a part of a freelance project, the brief was to develop a range of statement cushions for a given space. It was imperative to keeep in mind the look and feel of the space. The colors of the space though subdued had a tinge of purple in the curtains. The cushions were designed to break the monotony of purple with different colors and at the same time honor the exisiting color palette and the look of the space. To incorporate the overlooking gardens through the window into the room the ferns were added into the geometric forms otherwise.
FINAL PRINTS
FINAL OUTCOME
SOFT FURNISHINGS Concept The idea here was to execute a 3 color gradation on a very large scale. The ombre fabric produced was to be converted into seamless blinds for large windows. Since the scale was large and the blinds were to be produced in multiple quantities, piece dyeing the fabrics was not a feasible idea. The fabric was then digital printed according to specific sizes and then converted into full length roman blinds. This also posed multiple challenges such as excessive ink deposition on the fabric, issues with post printing processes etc, which was then overcome to succesfully execute this project. 115 cm
229 cm
Children’s Furnishings While working for a Textile company, I was asked to create a range of fabrics for diverse uses from upholstery to sheers. Two of which I am sharing here. This particular fabric was done to be used as a curtain fabric for a Boy’s room. To step away from the cliche and offer something fun and quirky yet simplistic was the idea here. To create this print, safety pins were dipped in ink and then stamped on paper, eventually putting them in a repeat. This fabric was woven in a double cloth technique where the top layer is sheer and the bottom layer is a plain weave polyester binding together to create the pattern. This was done in a blue and pink color variation since the print is gender neutral both those colors can be used in either a girl’s or boy’s room.
Woven fabric
Woven fabric Butterflies as colorful and interesting as they are, also have a very playful quality. Although this print was particularly created to be used in the kid’s room, I personally feel it could add a quirky touch to a lounge room as well. To reduce the cost the print was kept tonal , in order to use minimal wefts. This fabric was woven in a double cloth technique where the top layer is sheer and the bottom layer is a plain weave polyester binding together to create the pattern. This was done in a lime and indigo color variation, to have a bright, fun variation as well as a sub-dued simplistic one.
FABRIC CONSTRUCTION Concept This project was done as a part of a classroom project aimed at developing sensitivity towards fabric design as an interplay between its construction, material, structure, form and meaning. As a part of this course we developed fabrics based on a reference which was from the culture of the city of Ahmedabad. I chose the lemon soda carts in the old city of ahmedabad. The citric flavor, effervescence and the freshness of the drink is what I tried to bring in the fabrics in the form of textures, layers and transperency.
Inspiration
These artworks were explored and created as an intermediate towards creating the fabric samples. The concept here was interpreted in 3 different ways Texture, Rhythm (stripes) and composition. A variety of materials such as glass pieces, transparent OHP sheets and paper were used to create these artworks. Techniques such as marbling were used to emulate the experience of drinking a refreshing lemon soda on a hot Ahmedabad afternoon, which was done using fresh citric colors. To incorporate the stainless steel jars, a characterstic specific to Indian lemon soda carts, silver was used as an accent color in the subsequent explorations.
Final explorations (Fabric) Various processes such as lasercutting, heat setting, fabric marbling, layering were used to creating the following samples. The aim here was to succesfully express the refreshing experience of having a cool, citric effervescent drink. A lot of layeing using lightweight fabrics was done as well in order to achieve that. The layered samples were stitched together using techniques such as Badla (Indian flatwire embroidery), hand embroidery stitches etc.
PRINT DESIGN: EIFFEL TOWER Concept
ARTWORKS
To design a print inspired from the iconic Eiffel tower. Since Eiffel tower is an inspiration used often, the idea here was to develop a print based on it without being evident.
Inspiration
Final exploration
Description The artworks created inspired from the Eiffel tower were done taking into account the grills, the layered visuals of the Eiffel tower, and the forms on the arches. Using a variety of treatments these artworks were created. Triangles were used as the base form to create a collage inspired from the overlaps of the grills.
Final print
Final repeat (Inset): Actual size
Colour Palette
Print co-ordinates
NON-Print Coordinates
PRINT DESIGN: SILVER FILIGREE Concept
ARTWORKS
To design a print based on the silver filigree work done in Orissa, a state in eastern India. The idea here was to bring in the intricacy and the delicacy of the craft into the print.
Inspiration
Description This particular project was a collaborative project with ‘Arvind Mills Pvt. Ltd’. The brief here was to develop a collection of prints inspired from Indian crafts for the European market, womenswear, Spring/ Summer 13-14. The colors in the final artwork were based on the a trend study for this particular season. Since the prints were done for Spring/ Summer the palette was kept comparitively light and breezy in pastel tones.
Final prints
Printed Fabrics
FLUID FURNISHINGS Concept Taking forward basic learnings, this project was aimed at creating a collection of fabrics for home furnishings. The brief here was to develop samples of the final collection using both woven techniques. The inspiration here was ‘WATER’. The textures and concepts are derived from the following mood-board.
Inspiration
Fabric outcomes
NATURE AND FORM Concept Nature is one of the best teachers when it comes to learning form. Here in this project the forms were explored from different aspects of nature including water and foliage. This study is then taken forward into a tessellating print.
PRINTS
PINK PEACH RUG Concept
woven trials
Van Gogh one of the most acclaimed impressionists is known especially for his brush strokes and color sense. Inspired from this great artists’ work this rug was developed. It was important here to imbibe especially the color and feel of the following painting ‘The pink peach trees’.
Inspiration
final product
WOVEN INSTALLATION Concept This project was done trying to explore Multi-layer as a structure trying to create a 3D composition. With a Maximum of 4 layers and a minimum of 1 this entire structure has been woven in one single warp with only the molding done off loom This project was done as a part of a classroom project. The aim I had here was to explore the Mutlilayer structure to create a 3D woven structure. The idea here was to alternate the number of layers and interlacements to create an effect and a structure. This is woven on a Single warp.
SKETCHES
final product
ikat illusion Concept This particular piece of work was done as a part of my internship with ‘Rajesh Pratap Singh’ one of the leading mens and womens wear designer in India. He is based in Delhi. The brief here was to develop a range of Ikat sarees based on Optical artt.
Inspiration
FINAL COLLECTION
SURFACE EXPLORATIONS Concept These are some of the surfaces I explored during one of my internships. It is inspired from the artist ‘Anish Kapoor’s’ untitled work. This piece of work is done using Lacquer and metal as a medium to create a reflective tesselated surface
Inspiration
Fabric outcomes
BANDHANI & CLAMP DYEING WORKSHOP Hochschule Luzern, Switzerland Duration: 1 week This was a workshop organised for students, faculties and researchers at HOCHSCHULE LUZERN, Switzerland. It was a workshop directed towards educating the participants about the Indian tie-dye techniques especially Bandhani and clamp dyeing. The workshop was taken in collaboration with two artisans from Bhuj, North Gujarat. These artisans have been praciticing the craft of Bandhini since generations and are master craftsmen. This collaboration was intended to be an exchange platform for skills and textile techniques. It was meant to provide a common learning ground for both the participants and craftsmen alike. Taking this workshop along with the craftsmen was an interesting study in cultural experiences for me. It was interesting to see how the same design process is altered because of the difference in cultural background. This one week long workshop had nearly 40 parcipants in 2 batches.
JACQUARD Concept As a part of a classroom project we were supposed to develop patterns and designs for a company hypothetically. The company chosen was ‘Manuel Canovas’. My concept was to design for a traditional space keeping in mind the look of the company.
MOOD-BOARD
FINAL DESIGNS
EXPLORING GLASS Concept As a part of one of the academic modules, I got an opportunity to explore and play around with glass a medium; which was a great opportunity for me as a Textile Designer to try something unusual. Using techniques such as Fusing, molding etc. I came up with the following products. Glass is one of the most beautiful mediums to create textures and layering in. It was interesting to explore a different material other than fabrics.
final products
CHHAIL KHALSA C/803, Samrajya Appts; Opp. Manav mandir, Memnagar, Ahmedabad-380052 +91 99250 22790 chhail.khalsa@gmail.com www.behance.net/chhail