You’ve got the goal.

surprises,” with a bright buttery San Marzano sauce and a side of mozzarella di bufala meant to melt into the matrix when sauce meets pasta. Quartaro followed the next week with burrata and Tempesta n’duja paprika-striped ravioli with a butter green garlic sauce, and cappelletti (“little hats”) with lamb pancetta and fava cream.

These pickup pop-ups will spread to different neighborhoods over the summer, part of a larger expansion that’s well under way. Quartaro is close to inking a lease on an undisclosed storefront that can meet the ballooning demand, with a pickup point and window display. “If you look into the window you’re going to be seeing multiple hands making shapes,” he says. “Our machine will be running. I want it to be this spectacle of production and energy so people walk by and say, ‘What is going on in that place?’”

Delivery was key to Gemma’s success, and Quartaro’s planning to keep that option alive, along with shipping.

“This was not in the plan whatsoever,” he says. “But everything I’ve done has kind of