All about chocolate

All about

chocolate

Davide Comaschi’s name is inextricably linked with chocolate,because he was the first and only Italian to win the World Chocolate Masters competition and because of his incessant exploration in this field, as described in his book “Sul Cioccolato”

You never stop playing, studying and evolving with chocolate. It may seem obvious, but this is also a statements which sums up what we learned in the making of “Sul Cioccolato”. We had already addressed this topic in the past with the first-rate authors published by Chiriotti Editori, but the subject is now expressed and expanded in new ways thanks to Davide Comaschi’s book written with Marta Giorgetti. This project came to light thanks to Davide’s perseverance. We have known and followed him for years through various events and competitions - first of all the prestigious World Chocolate Masters 2013 - and his long working career in Italy and abroad. His professional path is the result of both an intense desire to go on and of the flame of ambition, which he was able to tame and channel during the years through the development of his personal style, techniques and visions. The synthesis is illustrated in this volume and both the authors infuse their experience and creative force, that they balance with rigorous techniques and an inclination towards design and images. The volume is the fruit of teamwork with the contribution of experts such as Luca Govoni for historical research and Heikki Verdurme for photography, thus increasing the value of the book.

“The volume contains the story of my professional life. A story that I love to tell every day, with the ambition to learn, always. That’s why I work with passion, asking myself many questions and comparing myself to others, so as to be sure that every concept and every step can be immediately understood. I also wanted to convey all my love for chocolate in this book, strengthened by precision and creativity, study and training”

Inside the book

Each page tells of a visceral love for chocolate from every point of view: history, botany, processing, sensorial qualities, malleability... Davide’s deep respect for the matter shows that he knows it thoroughly to offer a new modern, reasoned and dynamic vision of chocolate. He adds both ancient and very innovative recipes so as to submit original hints to readers, while ensuring precision and an intense aesthetic linearity at the same time. “At a certain point in my career, the desire to express my concept of chocolate was urgent – he says –, as well as the desire to share my experiences in a constructive dialogue, choosing a simple, clear and uncomplicated approach. Therefore, with Marta we chose a proper language so as to be understood by all and to give useful insights and information, while maintaining technical accuracy”. The book is not just a basic collection of recipes (even if there are many!), because of their additional hands-on perspective, which is useful to better

understand the transition from theory to practice. “It makes readers understand how crucial is to study before acting, to do research and experiment before establishing the rules”, Davide adds.

The authors

Chocolate culture, design and internationality are the three concepts that best define Davide Comaschi. Some months ago he came back to Italy from Belgium, where he worked as global creative leader for Callebaut. Today he is the first Chocolate Academy Ambassador of Barry Callebaut’s corporate brands and he personally manages his own lab in Bergamo. After a long project of rebranding, it is there that his Galaxy Collection is produced, as well as a whole range of chocolate products, and where new ideas are constantly developed. The new logo highlights the initials D and C and the packaging focuses on yellow, while the triangular motive reproduce the exact design of Davide’s Galaxy chocolate.

DAVIDE COMASCHI AND MARTA GIORGETTI WITH TOMMASO GROLLERO, WHO JOINED THEM FOR THE SHOOTING OF THE RECIPES OF THE BOOK.

The exhaustive “Sul Cioccolato” is also the result of Marta Giorgetti’s expertise. Born in Senigallia, she had studied anthropology at the University of Bologna, but when she realized that her love for confectionery could not find its right expression in a home kitchen, she enrolled at Alma, the International School of Italian Cuisine in Colorno, near Parma. This is where she was struck by the charm of ingredients, the precision of recipes, the techniques and everything that hid behind a dessert. Afterwards, as an intern at the Pasticceria Martesana in Milan, she met Comaschi and the urgency to deepen her professional skills concerning chocolate grew, leading her to Chocolate Academy Milano. She has worked there since 2017 doing international research and development projects, taking care of educational programs and supporting external chefs and pastry chefs. The relationship of exchange, esteem, trust and friendship between Marta and Davide, as well as months of study and work in common, are expressed in this book, whose strength and usefulness come from two visions, two approaches and two different sensibilities, which fit together harmoniously.

Chapter after chapter

After the historical introduction by Luca Govoni, the world of cocoa is described through several chapters: from bean to cocoa mass, cocoa butter and cocoa powder; from processing to recipes; from pre-crystallization to ganaches, from chocolate tasting to more than 50 recipes, exploring different areas of chocolate making, such as creams, tablets, chocolates, cremini, truffles, ganaches, biscuits, cakes, single portions and subzero, including semifreddoes, gelatos and sorbets.

SUL CIOCCOLATO - Davide Comaschi, with the collaboration of Marta Giorgetti - photo Heikki Verdurme - 400 pages - € 80 available in Italian - Chiriotti Editori shop.chiriottieditori.it

GIANDUJA

CAKE

For 4 ø 18 cm cakes

COCOA AND ALMOND SPONGE CAKE egg yolks ................ g 160 whole eggs ............... g 100 granulated sugar ........... g 150 fresh egg whites ............ g 150 granulated sugar ........... g 100 finely ground almond powder .... g 100 flour W160 ............... g 100 cocoa powder 22/24 .......... g 50 butter .................. g 100

In a planetary mixer fitted with a wire whip, whisk the yolks and eggs with the first part of sugar. In another bowl, whisk the egg whites with the second dose of sugar. Sift the powders together at least twice. Make a batter with some whisked eggs, some powders and the melted butter, in order to obtain a mixture as close as possible to the whisked egg one. Then add the remaining powders, alternating them with the egg whites, always stirring from the bottom up with a rubber spatula. Leave some egg whites aside, add the butter-based mixture and then the egg whites left. Spread a 8 mm layer inside a ø 16 cm chablon. Remove the chablon, place a cooking ring of the same diameter and cook at 210°C for 7-8 minutes, valve closed. Put the obtained sponge cake in the blast chill at positive temperature. When cold, turn it over and remove the silicone mat.

CARAMEL FOR THE BAVAROIS water .................. g 12 60 DE glucose syrup .......... g 12 granulated sugar ........... g 30 35% fat cream ............. g 50

In a saucepan, caramelize sugar, water and glucose syrup at 176°C, then de-cook with the boiling cream.

HAZELNUT BAVARIAN fresh milk ............... g 205 granulated sugar ........... g 290 egg yolks ................ g 130 hazelnut paste ............. g 165 72% dark chocolate .......... g 55 gelatin 100 Bloom ........... g 18 water .................. g 90 caramel ................. g 65 35% fat cream ............. g 460

Pasteurize milk, sugar and yolk in a saucepan at 82°C, then pour it into a planetary mixer fitted with a wire whip with the hazelnut paste, chocolate and the rehydrated gelatin. Add the decocted caramel and mix. Lighten with the semi-whipped cream, mixing from bottom to top with a rubber spatula.

DARK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE fresh milk ................................................g 290 granulated sugar ....................................g 85 egg yolks...................................................g 85 hazelnut paste .........................................g 85 72% dark chocolate ...............................g 290 80% dark chocolate................................g 90 35% fat cream ........................................g 590

Pasteurize milk, sugar and yolks in a saucepan at 82°C. Pour the cream into a jug with the hazelnut paste and the chocolates; mix with an immersion blender at high

speed until you reach a perfect emulsion. Finally, add the semi-whipped cream, mixing from bottom to top with a rubber spatula.

CHOCOLATE AND ORANGE SOAK SYRUP water .................. g 100 granulated sugar ........... g 150 60 DE glucose syrup .......... g 50 orange peel ............... n  1/2 vanilla pod ............... n  1/2 72% dark chocolate .......... g 25 Grand Marnier ............ g 50

Bring water, sugar, glucose syrup and the flavoring ingredients to the boil in a saucepan. Pour it over the dark chocolate and cool. When the temperature is below 50°C, add the Grand Marnier, then emulsify with an immersion blender at high speed. Cool in a blast chiller at a positive temperature.

CRUNCHY BRITTLE corn flakes ............... g 200 cocoa butter .............. g 50 80% dark chocolate .......... g 100 hazelnut praline ............ g 500

Put the corn flakes in a cutter, pre-crystallize the cocoa butter and pour into the bowl of the cutter to waterproof them. Add the pre-crystallized chocolate and the hazelnut paste and mix well until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Spread the mixture to 3 mm and cut out 15 cm ø circles. Place in the refrigerator.

ICING vanilla pods .............. n 2 35% fat cream ............. g 750 inverted sugar syrup ......... g 105 granulated sugar ........... g 90 60 DE glucose syrup .......... g 105 22/24 cocoa powder .......... g 42 hazelnut paste ............. g 92 40% milk chocolate .......... g 300 100 Bloom gelatin ........... g 25 water .................. g 125

In a nonstick saucepan, bring the cream, vanilla and sugars to the boil. Add the sifted cocoa powder and bring back to the boil. Pour over the milk chocolate and hazelnut paste, emulsify with an immersion blender at high speed; add the hydrated gelatin and emulsify for 2 minutes, taking care not to let air into the icing. Cover with a film and chill in the refrigerator.

COMPOSITION

Soak the sponge cake discs with 50 g of the chocolate and orange syrup and freeze. Pour 300 g of hazelnut Bavarian cream into a silicone mold, then put it in a blast chiller at positive temperature for 5 minutes. Pour 250 g of dark chocolate mousse, making it adhere immediately to the crunchy brittle. Add another 100 g of chocolate mousse and finally the soaked sponge cake.

FINISH

Pre-crystallize the orange cocoa butter and draw very thin lines with a brush on an acetate sheet. Once crystallized, sprinkle some gold dust. Pour some pre-crystallized 41% milk chocolate on it, then place another decorated acetate sheet and spread it very thinly with the help of a rigid tube. When chocolate starts to turn to cream, press it with a nut-shaped mold. Let it crystallize between two trays to prevent the decoration from deforming. Make a chocolate strip for the cake outline, using an acetate band decorated with some orange chocolate butter and golden dust. Let it crystallize around a 18 cm ø ring. Heat the icing to 35°C and glaze the cake at -20°C. Place the decoration in an elegant and clean way and end with the chocolate strip around the cake.

STORAGE (BASE ONLY)

This product can be stored at a temperature of -20°C for 6 months, stored and covered without sudden changes in temperature, after being chilled to -40°C. The regeneration of the product must respect the cold chain.

STORAGE (FINISHED PRODUCT)

Store at positive temperature +0-4°C for up to 2 days.

Davide Comaschi Marta Giorgetti “Sul Cioccolato” Chiriotti Editori shop.chiriottieditori.it Photos Heikki Verdurme

THE GENESIS OF THE TRIANGLE

It was 2013 when Davide Comaschi raised the trophy of the World Chocolate Masters in Paris, after a challenge involving 19 chocolatiers from all over the world competing on the theme of architecture of taste. This victory marked his professional destiny, supporting his peculiar and unique rise as an Italian professional, who was then able to reach the international organizational structure of Barry Callebaut. Davide was able to influence the Italian positive reputation in the world confectionery, as well as the evolution of the ways to face international competitions. At that time, we realized how innovative Davide’s approach had been, both in the training method (under the supervision of Iginio Massari) and during the competition, with a hyper organized and personalized working box. Furthermore, he introduced many innovations which were much admired front the technical point of view. For example, the various elements of his chocolate sculpture were not glued together but interlocked and superimposed, using an “engineered” self-assembly technique, not to mention the airbrushing and flowers. This splendid victory traced not only Comaschi’s career path, but also the stylistic code on which his brand is based today, in a geometric game in which the triangle reigns, together with sobriety and linearity. His performance in 2013 in Paris stated his aesthetic orientation.

SURPRISING

vegetables

Vegetables are the lead actors on the stage of Unforgettable, the Michelin-starred restaurant in Turin owned by Christian Mandura. They are used as ingredients in both savoury and sweet courses, as in the sorbets conceived with Giulio Rocci and Emanuele Monero, the gelato makers of Ottimo! Buono non basta in Turin

They have known each other for 7 years and shared not only friendship, but also a common penchant for food culture and quality. This is where their fruitful collaboration comes from, leading to a range of gelato and sorbets a step ahead. Christian Mandura is the young chef of the Michelin-starred Unforgettable restaurant in Turin, which was opened three years ago, and Giulio Rocci is the gelato maker and owner of Ottimo! Buono non basta in Turin as well, with his business partner Emanuele Monero. Mandura and Rocci took inspiration from their respective places of origin. Christian Christian flew to Noma in Copenhagen, while Giulio found inspiration at Davide Scabin’s Combal Zero in Rivoli, worked in catering until 2006 and then turned to gelato making.

began his career at his family-run restaurant Il Geranio in Chieri, near Turin, and then took off to open his own business, focusing on a “vegetables in the center and meat and fish as side dishes”-culinary attitude. Giulio was inspired by his grandmother Maria’s recipe notebooks and her homemade gelato, which she prepared with a few available ingredients such as ice and her cow milk, and by his mother Carmen’s respect for food, a sort of ante litteram cult of sustainability. Both then left for international experiences: after having been commis de cuisine at the Michelin-starred Del Cambio restaurant in Turin,

Vegetables in the limelight

Being attracted by what lingers behind the scenes – such as the meaning of working in the food service sector, of food ethics and sustainability – Christian and the gelato makers carefully design new dishes and special gelato desserts. In addition to their own activity, Rocci and Monero conceive specific recipes for Unforgettable and their common approach is based on placing vegetables in the limelight, while leaving the rest in the background. An innovative attitude, which brings out both their “childish hearts” and affinities. “We have made a small, but huge revolution within us”, the chef says. At the single table of Unforgettable, guests share the restaurant experience together and vegetables are not “only” in the limelight, but the main courses themselves. The same happens in Dessert

in a stone and radish with coconut ge-

lato, served with a salad, or Gelato with cuttlefish and lettuce which, as we shall see, are both a prelude to Vegetables in the limelight, where some elements of the previous savory courses are transformed into sorbets. These combinations are the result of Christian, Giulio and Emanuele research, which is focused on unprecedented combinations of taste and the reduction of added sugars, making

CHRISTIAN MANDURA, THE CHEF OF THE MICHELIN STARRED-UNFORGETTABLE RESTAURANT IN TURIN.

the best of the naturally occurring sugars contained in vegetables. “An interesting experiment – Rocci says – was the recipe of a prizewinning gastronomic gelato which was awarded the Premio Menzione Speciale per il Legame con il Territorio (a special prize for the recipe territorial links) last year, on the occasion of the Sherbeth Festival. Having to send it, we thought of a “Turin postcard”, a concentrate of our typical flavors. This is how Baci da Torino was conceived, a recipe expressing a new concept which overcame the Being attracted by what lingers behind the scenes – such as the meaning of working in the food service sector, of food ethics and sustainability – the chef and the gelato makers carefully design new dishes and special gelato desserts

distinction between gastronomic gelato and the artisan product sold in gelato shops. It included some typical Piedmontese ingredients from different areas, such as the hazelnuts from the hilly area of Langhe, porcini mushroom from the mountains, coffee and chocolate from the confectionery tradition of our city, noisette butter for its culinary role... A surprise for the palate!”.

Essence of taste and aesthetic minimalism

The following dessert includes some vegetable ingredients already tasted during the meal. The photo shows seven sorbets and here there are four recipes. Depending on the season, other suitable vegetable ingredients can be aubergines, fennels, capers, fava beans, broccoli… “The difficulty consisted in obtaining a taste as faithful as possible to the corresponding vegetable chosen by Christian”, Rocci explains. The sorbets are the result of a long preparation time, in order to maintain the flavour intensity of each vegetable, in a balance between sugar and salt, and with a particular attention to the unconventional temperatures (-7 / -8 ° C instead of -10 / -12 ° C as usual) required to keep their structure. The same special care is taken to match the small vegetable sorbetto spheres to a suitable serving dish. Freshness, taste and a minimalistic aesthetic choice are thus included in a surprising dessert, that “summarizes” the menu and opens to new appealing vegetal scenarios.

Emanuela Balestrino Photos by Olivia Rotondo

VEGETABLES IN THE LIMELIGHT

TOASTED LETTUCE SORBET toasted lettuce .................... g 500 water ......................... g 250 trehalose ....................... g 50 dextrose ....................... g 130 pectin ......................... g 4 white vinegar .................... g 4 lightly fired lettuce ................. g 200 inulin ......................... g 10

Toast 500 g of lettuce on a high flame, then put it in a juice extractor to obtain 350 g of juice. Bring it to the boil with water, sugars, pectin and white vinegar. Let it cool and emulsify with the lightly fried lettuce and inulin. Let it rest and stir. Finishing touches by the chef.

POTATO AND OIL SORBET potatoes ....................... g 200 trehalose ....................... g 50 dextrose ....................... g 130 salt .......................... g 6 extra virgin olive oil ................. g 30

Cook the diced potatoes in about 580 g of water. Add sugar and salt, then blend at about 40 ° C. Add the extra virgin olive oil, emulsify and whisk. Finishing touches by the chef.

TOMATO SORBET sweet tomato water ................. g 500 dextrose ....................... g 130 trehalose ....................... g 50 salt .......................... g 4 white vinegar .................... g 2 tomato extract .................... g 70 pectin ......................... g 4

Bring the tomato water with sugars and pectin to a boil and add the salt. Add tomato extract, emulsify and whisk. Finishing touches by the chef.

ONION SORBET steamed onions ................... g 500 water ......................... g 250 dextrose ....................... g 130 trehalose ....................... g 40 pectin ......................... g 2 white vinegar .................... g 8 salt .......................... g 4

Bring liquids, sugars and pectin to a boil. Emulsify with the onions, sift, and whisk. Finishing touches by the chef.

Christian Mandura Unforgettable Torino unforgettablexperience.info

Giulio Rocci ed Emanuele Monero Ottimo! Buono non basta Torino facebook.com/ottimobuonononbasta/

CHOCOLATIER IN NAPOLI - ITALY

Gambero Rosso ‘2 Cakes’ award 2020 2022

When you mix passion with experience, the promise of a masterpiece is never far away. For over 75 years ICAM Professional and Agostoni have fed the creativity of pastry chefs, chocolatiers and ice cream makers worldwide. And now we are back with the origin of taste: we are back with our Italian chocolate.

Ecological transition

Frigomat chose to preserve existing resources through environmentally friendly solutions with the lowest possible impact. The company initiated a process of ecological transition of its activities some years ago and they recently started to apply the concept of ecological sustainability to machinery production, also due to the current required industrial standards. Their new range now employs energy and water saving technologies and a natural refrigerant gas to reduce its environmental impact, while ensuring higher levels of efficiency at the same time. The goal is to convert the entire Frigomat range of gelato and pastry machines through sustainability standards, in order to preserve and transmit the “taste” of a cleaner world to future generations. The GX series is included in the above mentioned ecological transition project through the use of an eco-friendly natural refrigerant gas, and the adoption of highly efficient refrigeration circuits, which allow consistent water saving (up to 50%). The series is equipped with 7 electronic programs for the freezing of gelato and slush mixes, with the possibility to produce 8 different flavours in front of the customer. Moreover, a practical quick release system for spatulas protects gelato against the risk of contamination; the food-grade rings allow perfect thermal insulation of the tanks; an anti-fog system avoids condensation under the lids (optional). The series is certified by Italian university research labs which recognize the high hygienic and food safety standards of the GX machines, which can be installed in shops and restaurants in order to expand one’s offer and to have an independent gelato corner.

frigomat.com

The Italian art of chocolate making

For more than 75 years, ICAM Cioccolato has been a spokesman for the Italian excellence in the art of chocolate making and two professional brands have been conceived to satisfy the growing needs of chocolatiers, pastry chefs, and gelato makers. Icam Professional was launched in 2004 while Agostoni in 2018 and from then on their ranges are constantly being expanded to guarantee excellent performances. The latest additions include Chocolate Nuances range to the ICAM Professional and two new chocolates to the Agostoni Monorigine. Chocolate Nuances are chocolate chunks for baking made with white or milk chocolate, a truly unique product in terms of shape, texture, and taste. These 100% natural recipes are designed to withstand baking at high temperatures, making them perfect for leavened products, croissants, baking bases, cookies... and more. Moreover, with the addition of about 6 % of cocoa butter, these chocolate cubes turn into true chocolate couvertures to be used in pastry, chocolate, and gelato making. There are five available flavours: raspberry, pistachio, passion fruit, blueberry, and milk and coffee. The Agostoni Monorigine range now includes Cuba Dark Chocolate 66% and

Madagascar Milk Chocolate 40. The Cuba chocolate features a rich showcase of Cuban flavours, giving it an intense taste with multiple nuances: wood, hints of dried fruit and spices, accompanied by a slight acidity and delicate cocoa notes. It is ideal for enrobing and in the production of ganaches, chocolate cups, creams and mousses. The Madagascar milk chocolate has pleasant notes of yellow fruits and hazelnut endnotes resulting in a smooth and palatable taste. It is recommended for enrobing, chocolate cups, creams and mousses. Both products are excellent for chocolate tastes, that are particularly suitable in the cold season.

icamcioccolato.com