CHILLED Sarah SAUVIGNON BLANC BY
Jсsica Parkр WINE’S FASHION STATEMENT
+ WOMEN IN
SPIRITS LEADING LADIES OF LIQUOR
THE WORLD OF
WHISKEY BARTENDER’S PRIZE-WINNING
RECIPES
CONTENTS
VOLUME 12 - ISSUE 5
features 86
In Fashion
Wine, Sarah Jessica Style Invivo X, SJP
88
The Magic of Liqueurs
Sticking Without Being Sticky
90
The Essence of American Whiskey Whiskey Distillers Enjoy the Boom!
94
Whiskey Around the Globe The Spirit, Near and Far
96
A Look at the Liberties Dublin’s Most Iconic Whiskey-Making Places
98
Making it Right Every Time
A Day in the Life of a Whiskey Distiller
100
One for the Ages
Get to Know Solera-Aged Whiskey
102
The Age of Premium Dark Spirits Rum’s History and Heritage
104
If You Like Piña Colada Who Doesn’t?
106 Recipes
Le Sirenuse Miami, Florida
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CONTENTS
VOLUME 12 - ISSUE 5
departments
72
Editor’s Note
8 A Message from Haley Forest
Bottoms Up!
10 Cool Products - Stuff You Need to Know About 12 How to Create an Infusion Station 14 Anatomy of the Bottle - Auténtico Nativo
The Locals
18 Bartender Submission - Faisal Asseri, Cloak & Petal, San Diego 20 Bartender Submission - Mariel Burns, Trademark Taste + Grind, NYC 22 Brand Owner Profile - Claire Marin, Catskill Provisions 24 Co-President Profile - Michele Lex for The Perfect Purée of Napa Valley 26 Distiller Profile - Republic Restoratives 28 CEO Profile - Jeff Mahony, Neft Vodka 32 Ask a Food and Beverage Director Michael MacDonnell, Atlantis Paradise Island Resort 34 Cocktail Competition - Camus Shanghai Shake 36 Cocktail Competition - Shaken & Stirred with Harleston Green 38 Ask a Bartender - UNA MÁS
Special Section
42 A Note from ms. franky marshall 44 Industry Influencers, Pioneering Women Empowering Others 58 Speed Rack - An All-Female Cocktail Competition 60 Bacardi’s Spirit Forward Program for Women 62 Media Mavens - Pioneering Women in the Marketing Industry 66 Heroines of the Cork - Pioneering Women in Champagne
Advanced Mixology
36 88
70 Drink In History - Corpse Reviver 72 Crafting Cocktails - The Negroni Sbagliato 74 Bartender's Choice - Angostura Bitters 76 Trending Now - Rye, Limousin Rye 78 That’s the Spirit - The Old Fashioned Cocktail Challenge with Elijah Craig
Mix It Up
16 Behind the No-ABV Bar 40 Celebrity Sips - Pioneering Celebrity Women 82 Shaking & Stirring - Launches 112 Last Call - Chillin’ With Stephanie Hollman
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Trinidad Sour
Enjoy Cocktail Responsibly | © 2019 ANGOSTURA HOLDINGS LIMITED
VOLUME 12 - ISSUE 5 PUBLISHER Jeff Greif ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, EDITOR AT LARGE Thom Meintel EDITOR IN CHIEF Gina Farrell ADVERTISING & MARKETING MANAGER, CHILLED 100 NATIONAL DIRECTOR Max Ferro DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Amanda Gabriele EXECUTIVE EDITORS Vicki Cruz, Anita Smith, Mandy Striph SENIOR EDITOR Lesley Jacobs Solmonson MARKETING ASSISTANTS Max Charlton, Joy Sinacore ART DEPARTMENT Daniel Batlle, Rick Jensen, Jessica Bartlett, Danny West, Angie Packer, Alyssa Walker, Jackson Ryan PROMOTION ART ASSISTANT Michael Scarso EDITORIAL STAFF Nicole DiGiose, Monique Farah, Bryen Dunn, Mike Gerard, Ariana Fekett, Judi Laing, Frankie Corrado, Michael Tulipan, Francine Cohen, Cydnee Murray, Ruth Tobias, Mathew Powers, Lanee Lee, David Perry, Bob Curley, Colleen Thompson, Richard Thomas CONTRIBUTORS Haley Forest, Marsha Meyer, John Bollow, franky marshall, Joseph Luparello, Richard Fri, travelsquire.com PHOTOGRAPHY Cover Photo Courtesy of Invivo & Co. Images: Shutterstock.com SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscribe to our FREE print edition at chilledmagazine.com. Digital edition is available for all desktop and mobile devices. Visit chilledmagazine.com/digital-issue to see our complete library. HOW TO REACH US info@chilledmagazine.com ADVERTISING INQUIRIES Free Agent Media: 212-213-1155 CHILLED MEDIA PRESIDENT Anthony Graziano LEGAL REPRESENTATION Ferro, Kuba, Mangano, Sklyar, P.C. CHILLED MAGAZINE Volume 12 - Issue 5 ©2019 Chilled Media. Chilled® magazine and the Chilled® magazine logo are registered trademarks owned by Chilled Media. All rights reserved. CHILLEDMAGAZINE.COM NEWSSTAND DISTRIBUTION Curtis Circulation Company, LLC.
Chilled magazine is Printreleaf™ certified and is involved with reforestation around the globe. For more information, visit printreleaf.com.
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EDITOR’S LETTER
VOLUME 12 - ISSUE 5
Photo by Eugene Lee
GUEST EDITOR HALEY FOREST
As a child, do you remember being asked what your hobbies were? I liked ballet, soccer, and horseback riding. As a young adult, those activities shifted to rock-climbing, clubbing, and thankfully for my future self, food. Growing up, most of us were told, “Find a job you love, and you’ll never work a day in your life.” By that standard, many of us have the best jobs in the world. We’re fortunate enough to have created vocations out of pastimes; odd jobs turned into impactful life choices. When I first started slinging burgers and milkshakes in my hometown twenty years ago, I figured it was my side hustle until I became successful. Little did I know then, that my pocket change gig would quickly turn into a hobby, that grew into a passion and now, a career. For a long time, it felt like I’d left hobbies in the safekeeping of my youth. However, I recently realized that old saying is, in fact, correct. I spend a lot of time eating, drinking, and learning all I can about this wonderful industry, as you, dear CHILLED reader, are doing right now, and that’s literally part of my job. How fabulous is that? So, to the enthusiast dreaming of becoming a professional and the long-time pro looking to rekindle the flame, remember how grand it is that we live in a world where our passions can become our profession. Salute!
Haley Forest Originally hailing from San Francisco, Haley has spent the last two decades making drinks, cooking food, managing restaurants, and writing about cocktails. Currently she is the United States National Brand Ambassador for Italicus Rosolio Di Bergamotto and lives in Brooklyn with her cats, Tilt and Truffles.
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Imported by Niche Import Co. | A Marussia Beverages Company | Cedar Knolls, NJ ourniche.com | Please Drink Responsibly
BOTTOMS UP!
COOL PRODUCTS
STUFF YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE LAST DROP DISTILLERS DECANTER
The Last Drop’s decanter, Phoebe, is an “intelligent” pouring device that is as elegant as it is magical. The intuitive robotic drinks pourer is handcrafted to the highest quality by expert British engineers, is easy to transport, and it adds an element of theatre to serving spirits. thelastdropdistillers.com
THE COCKTAIL BOX CO.
Imagine having the ingredients and tools of a professional bartender right in your pocket. Take these little premium cocktail making kits wherever, whenever. Housed in beautifully designed “on-the-go” tin boxes, they are offered in four flavors: Old Fashioned, Champagne Cocktail, Moscow Mule, and Gin & Tonic. thecocktailboxco.com
FORGE CLEAR ICE SYSTEM
This crowd-funded campaign has already met its goal and proceeded to production, but the next phase of manufacturing is still open for funding. Using tap water, the Forge ice maker creates a clear ice “gem” in about four hours. In order to turn the gem into a sphere, simply place it in the heated press, which produces a perfectly spherical piece of ice that fits beautifully into a glass. Ideal for enhancing whiskey or other alcoholic beverages, the product is the first of its kind. forgeclearice.com
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HARLESTONSCOTCH.COM
TAKE ALL COMERS In 1786, Scottish merchants absconded with two of European high society’s most treasured pleasures, golf and scotch, and brought them together at Harleston Green in Charleston, South Carolina for all to enjoy. Harleston Green blended scotch celebrates this unwavering power of conviviality, openness, and firm handshakes. We trust it will soon become the indispensable foundation for balanced cocktails, long nights, new games and spirited conversation among friends—and worlds—new and old.
BOTTOMS UP!
HOW TO
HOW TO CREATE AN INFUSION STATION By Lesley Jacobs Solmonson
Bunches of mint, bowls of bright citrus, ripe berries—a garnish station is one of the most colorful, aromatic, and inviting (not to mention most used), areas at a bar. Cocktail consultant Marsha Meyer takes this concept one creative step further by assembling an Infusion Station for the events she plans. Not only is a table bursting with herbs, spices, and fruit a focal point in a room, it’s also an intriguing gathering place where Meyer infuses neutral spirits to order. When it comes to building infusions, you’re only limited by your imagination. Meyer involves her guests by helping them define their palate. “I take favorite and familiar flavors and pair them beautifully,” she explains. This type of setup isn’t just for a party. Arranged as a focal point, it welcomes guests, spurs conversation, and encourages creative interaction.
STEP 1
STEP 2
STEP 3
CREATE YOUR STATION. To create a basic station with a solid number of choices, start with at least ten ingredients. Be sure to include a combination of spices (whole or minced, never powdered) fresh herbs and fruits, including citrus. To create a personal flavor profile for each guest, ask about favorite cocktail or dessert choices—are the go-to flavors fruity, citrusy, herbaceous, spicy, sweet, or savory? Then use those ingredients.
THE INFUSING PROCESS. Choose a neutral spirit. Add 2 ounces of the neutral spirit (vodka works well) for one drink or 4 ounces for two drinks to an infuser. Allow the spirit to sink to the bottom of the infuser. Place infusion ingredients in the top of the infuser and turn on the flame. Boil until the spirit has gone up through the tube, into the top of the infuser, so it can mingle with all infusing ingredients.
INFUSION TIMING. Allow ingredients to infuse, turn off the flame and let the infuser cool. The time will vary but it is approximately 2 to 3 minutes, depending on the extraction of flavors. Pour the now-infused spirit over ice and chill the still warm mixture; then strain the mixture to remove solids and ice. Treat the mixture as you would any other chilled spirit to make a cocktail served neat or up. Serve over ice or in a simple cocktail with non-competing flavors.
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Photo by Laura Ford
MARSHA MEYER Marsha Meyer, The Natural Mixologist, has been in the beverage industry for 11 years. Her experience has spanned from bartending in London to bar program director in NYC, to consulting for major liquor brands and teaching cocktail classes. She believes that enthusiasm for healthy eating should translate to our cocktail glass as well as our plate. Cocktails can be natural, organic, vegan, gluten-free, non-GMO, and sustainable. Her motto: “Lets detox, while we retox.”
MOROCCAN NIGHTS INGREDIENTS
2 oz. spice-infused vodka* 1 ⁄4 oz. simple syrup PREPARATION
Stir ingredients in an ice-filled mixing glass. Strain into a rocks glass with a large sphere or dry, fresh ice. *Spice infusion: infuse 2 oz. vodka with 14⁄ bar spoon dried ginger, 1 ⁄2 tsp. cinnamon chips, 14⁄ bar spoon coriander, 1 cardamom pod (muddle to expose interior) and 2-3 inch lemon peel.
TIP
Start with neutral spirit. Vodka is typically best; blanco tequila or white rum will also work well.
FLAMES OF LOVE INGREDIENTS
2 oz. strawberry-pepper-infused vodka* 1 oz. tart cherry juice PREPARATION
Stir ingredients in an ice-filled mixing glass; strain into a coupe. Garnish with orchid flower. *Strawberry-pepper infusion: infuse 2 oz. vodka with 2 small or 1 medium strawberry, slightly smashed; 6 basil leaves, 1 ⁄2 bar spoon pink peppercorns, and 2-3 Szechuan peppercorns.
PRO TIP Because the infusion itself is the star of the show, serve the spirit simply over ice or in a simple cocktail with a mixer or two that won’t compete with the infusion.
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BOTTOMS UP!
ANATOMY OF THE BOTTLE
THE FULL PACKAGE EXAMINATION By Mathew Powers
No preservatives. No artificial colors. Auténtico Nativo is an all-natural rum that grows in Panama’s rich, volcanic soil. The distillation takes place at the Las Cabras Distillery in copper and brass stills dating back to 1922 and then the rums age for at least 15 years in bourbon barrels.
Auténtico Nativo: Product of Panama An authentic, allnatural rum with its ingredients grown and distilled in Panama. The rich Panamanian soil provides wonderful flavor to the rum.
The result is a rum that’s garnered Double Gold, Gold, and Platinum medals at the 2019 SIP Awards, as well as the 2019 Innovation Award from the consumer judges for its 20-year expression. Additionally, the brand has won several awards including Double Gold and Best in Show at the 2019 Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America Convention, and two more at the 2019 World Spirits competition in San Francisco.
The A.N. Monogram refers to the brand name.
THE AUTÉNTICO NATIVO PACKAGING HARKENS BACK TO THE GOLDEN AGE OF COCKTAILS, THE 1920s— CLASSIC AND ORNATE, YET SIMPLY MADE ALLOWING THE BEAUTY OF THE RUM IS ALLOWED TO SHINE.
Number emblem True-aged rum with expressions including 15 years, 20 years, and an overproof edition. The number on the label points directly to the minimum age of the liquid inside the bottle.
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The Main Label The elegant design speaks to its nature as a premium, sophisticated rum.
Glass Bottle The glass allows consumers to see the natural, dark color of the aged rum. No artificial colors are added.
R
Signature Serve –1.5 oz. Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish Gin –Top-off with chilled premium tonic water –Fresh Ruby Red Grapefruit
gunpowdergin.com ENJOY RESPONSIBLY.
PALMBAY.COM
©2019 Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL
MIX IT UP
BEHIND THE BAR
BEHIND THE
No-AB V BAR
MINGLE MOCKTAILS
Owner Laura Taylor developed this line of RTD mocktails as the result of her own decision to “lose the booze.” Her goal was to offer a tasty choice to both non-drinkers and those abstaining for other reasons. The newest flavor, Blood Orange Elderflower, joins the Cranberry Cosmo, Blackberry Hibiscus Bellini, Melon Mojito, and Moscow Mule recipes. Slight effervescence offers a refreshing mouthfeel; each RTD bottling is all-natural and organic.
CURIOUS ELIXIRS
With its no-nonsense tag line, “Craft Cocktails Without the Booze,” Curious Elixirs cuts to the chase. Brewed, bottled, and shipped weekly each elixir is lightly-carbonated and uses only organic juices with no added sugar. Curious No. 1 starts with a pomegranate base, No. 2 is smoky and spicy, No. 3 focuses on cucumber, and No. 4 takes inspiration from the classic spritz. New flavors are in development.
REGATTA PREMIUM CRAFT MIXERS
Regatta proudly offers a full line of premium craft mixers expertly crafted in small batches using the finest natural ingredients. They are American-made, non-GMO project verified, and contain no artificial preservatives. Simply said, Regatta Craft Mixers are good on their own and make better cocktails.
SEEDLIP
This company put nonalcoholic RTDs on the map. Inspired by herbal remedies from the 17th-century, Seedlip uses a bespoke distillation process for each of its ingredients. The range includes Spice 94, the herbal Garden 108, and the citrusbased Grove 42. Although the products can be sipped solo, Seedlip suggests using its flavors as a launching pad to create nonalcoholic cocktails, thus reimagining how we drink.
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COPPER & KINGS FLOODWALL APPLE BRANDY, MEZCAL, COMPLEX SWEET VERMOUTH, MOLE BITTERS, COPPER & KINGS BRANDIED CHERRY
COPPERANDKINGS.COM
ADVANCED THE LOCALSMIXOLOGY BARTENDER DRINK SUBMISSION IN HISTORY
Faisal Asseri
Cloak & Petal, San Diego Photos courtesy Cloak & Petal Faisal Asseri of Cloak & Petal is understandably excited right now. “This upcoming menu will be my first menu launch in my career,” he says. “It’s been a lot of moments of inspiration where I make something and immediately write it down. Or I’ll take something that I have an appreciation for, like the Japanese Highball, and try to put a twist on it. I’m hoping that with this menu, I can start finding a path to take when it comes to new cocktail development.” Launching his inaugural craft cocktail menu is a far cry from his first job at a local burger shop in San Diego. “We would stay open until 3 a.m. on the weekends, and we’d always see the bartenders from around town coming in after their shift exhausted, but always eager to talk about how crazy the night was,” Asseri recalls. Eventually, he got a job at Soda & Swine, a meatball shop next to Polite Provisions, one of the city’s preeminent cocktail bars. Watching the bartenders there left Asseri “awestruck” and inspired him to focus on tending bar as a career. Asseri encourages aspiring bartenders or home enthusiasts to visit local craft bars and befriend the bartenders. “We’re always happy to share knowledge and encourage growth,” he says. Right now, were you to walk into his bar, Asseri would probably wax poetic about Yuzu Omoi, a tokubetsu junmai (“special pure”) sake enhanced by natural yuzu. “It adds a bright, vibrant, and refreshing taste to cocktails while still being unique and different,” he explains. “I want to start using more traditional Japanese and Asian ingredients with my cocktails.” His enthusiasm for these ingredients ties in beautifully with the omakase (a Japanese phrase that means, “I’ll leave it up to you”) style of bartending that he sees as a continuing trend in the United States. One can only wonder what Asseri will riff on next.
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JAPANANAH INGREDIENTS
2 oz. Broker’s Gin 2 oz. coco banana puree ¼ oz. crème de violette ¼ oz. allspice dram 1 oz. lime juice 4 dashes cardamom bitters Rosemary (for garnish) PREPARATION
Combine ingredients in a shaker and shake with highquality ice (Asseri uses Scotsman). Pour mixture into a tiki mug and top with more ice. Garnish with rosemary.
A R E Y O U L OSING MONEY ?
RumChata is proud to be A TOP FIVE SELLING LIQUEUR BRAND IN THE U.S.* Is this money maker on your cordials list ?
*Source Impact Databank 2018. RumChata®. Caribbean Rum with Real Dairy Cream, Natural & Artificial Flavors, 13.75% alc/vol. Agave Loco Brands, Pewaukee, WI. Please Enjoy Responsibly. RUMCHATA and CHATA are Registered Trademarks of Agave Loco, LLC.
ADVANCED THE LOCALSMIXOLOGY BARTENDER DRINK SUBMISSION IN HISTORY
Mariel Burns
Head Bartender Trademark Taste + Grind New York, New York Photos by Sarah Curley / IGC Hospitality “Keep it simple!” That’s the mantra of Mariel Burns, who believes that even the most basic cocktail can be reborn with a bit of tinkering. “I think having a few of your favorite cocktails in your wheelhouse is invaluable,” she explains. “You can build on the basics and create countless new variations. For example, if you love an Old Fashioned, try using a spirit other than whiskey as the base and then experiment with different bitter components and sweeteners.” A perfect example is Burns’ Pisco Disco recipe, which riffs on the sour—spirit, sweetener, and citrus—by tweaking each ingredient just so. Like many career bartenders today, Burns stepped behind the bar during college to help earn tuition. Once she graduated, she traveled and tended bar for a year. After working in a few bars, she headed for New York, where she felt welcomed by the industry. “The bar community has always been a welcome home for me,” says Burns, “and NYC has been no exception. I feel most comfortable behind a bar making people happy and working with the best around.” Currently Burns heads up the bar team at Trademark Taste + Grind in Midtown, Manhattan. On a daily basis, she draws on numerous influences. Her first bar manager, Jason Brunson, taught her, “how to be kind and tough, to work smart and efficiently.” Her current director of bars, Will Benedetto, continuously pushes her outside her comfort zone, while her GM, Chris Keegan, gives her full autonomy to run the bar program as she sees fit. Right now, Burns loves anything bitter. “Either bitters or amaro balance cocktails that are too sweet or need softening from the prominent spirit. I recently was at a tiki cocktail conference where a quarter ounce of Montenegro was added to a Piña Colada—it might have been the best drink I’ve ever had. It changed my perception of a cocktail I’ve had countless times and inspired me to think in new ways when creating.”
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PISCO DISCO INGREDIENTS
1 ½ oz. Ilegal Mezcal ½ oz. El Gobernador Pisco ¼ oz. Ancho Reyes Verde ¾ oz. pineapple cilantro syrup* ½ oz. acid solution** Salt chili and pineapple dust rim*** PREPARATION
Add first five ingredients to mixing tin with ice; shake until well combined. Strain into a salt-chili, pineapple dust rim. Garnish with pineapple fronds or dehydrated lime. *Cilantro syrup: juice a pineapple, reserving pulp for pineapple dust. Boil with 8 oz. each sugar and water, a bunch of cilantro, and 1g Maldon salt. Strain and fortify with 1 oz. vodka. **Acid solution: blend 15g malic acid and 30g citric acid into 32oz. cold water until dissolved. ***Dust: dehydrate pineapple pulp until moisture free. Grind into dust.
ENJOY RESPONSIBLY. ©2019. DEWAR’S BLENDED SCOTCH WHISKY 40% ALC. BY VOL. IMPORTED BY JOHN DEWAR & SONS COMPANY, CORAL GABLES, FL.
LOCALS
BRAND OWNER PROFILE
CLAIRE MARIN
Distilling Bee-comes Her
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By Mathew Powers It’s not typical to think of beekeeping as an integral component of creating artisanal spirits, but that’s what makes the award-winning Catskills Provisions so distinctive.
Jeanne Sager Photography
Roughly a decade ago, Claire Marin, founder of Catskill Provisions, said goodbye to New York City and the corporate world. She moved to the small, rural town of Long Eddy in the Catskill Mountains and developed a hobby that would eventually become a business. “I began beekeeping on the weekends and found myself drawn to the bees and fascinated by how they work in harmony with their environment,” admits Marin. “Inspired by their example, I began building my own business, drawing upon the local natural resources of Upstate New York.” Catskill Provisions maintains more than 300 beehives, which provide honey that, when combined with Catskill Mountain terroir, give a unique flavor to its artisanal foods and spirits. But, building the business proved difficult at first. “When I initially started distilling, I worked with other facilities until we were ready to build our own, but we always were a low priority. I lost a lot of time adapting my business to others’ parameters, which held us back in ways,” explained Marin.
“The result is a clean and mildly sweet flavor with no burn, making it ideal for sipping on the rocks or mixed into a cocktail.” She added, “And, at a slightly higher, 90 proof, it’s got a soft ‘sting!’ We anticipate New York Pollinator Vodka will quickly become a staple with mixologists everywhere.” Now, with a new product and positive buzz, women with a passion for distilling can look to Marin for inspiration on how to navigate what remains a maledominated industry.
Both literally and figuratively, there are more women in the room today than ever before. It’s promising and shows the staying power of women in the spirits industry; our talent becomes impossible to ignore. — Claire Marin, founder of Catskill Provisions But the story today for Catskill is success and growth. Along with artisanal, gluten-free, non-GMO, and sustainably-made food items, Catskill Provisions produces award-winning, grain-to-glass spirits. The NY Honey Rye Whiskey finishes in honey barrels while the Rugged Rye Whiskey is made from New York State grains and infused with raw wildflower honey. And soon, something new. “Our New York Pollinator Vodka launches this month; it’s the culmination of years of planning, a source of great pride and sense of accomplishment. Pollinator Vodka is a silky-smooth, distinct spirit distilled from non-GMO corn and our wildflower honey,” explains Marin. “It’s then proofed with pure, mineral-rich Catskill Mountain spring water.”
“As women, it’s important to stay positive and strong at the same time. Women also need to support other women at every turn, regardless of whether or not we stand to gain from a certain action. If we think holistically about lifting each other up, we will realize true empowerment. “Both literally and figuratively, there are more women in the room today than ever before,” Marin continues. “It’s promising and shows the staying power of women in the spirits industry; our talent becomes impossible to ignore. But, until we reach a point where our name no longer needs to be preceded by ‘female distiller,’ versus just ‘distiller,’ we’ve still got a way to go. Onward and upward!”
CHILLEDMAGAZINE.COM
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THE LOCALS
CO-PRESIDENT PROFILE
CHANGING THE GAME M i c h e l e L e x f o r T h e P e r f e c t P u r é e o f N a p a Va l l e y
MICHELE LEX, CO-OWNER, COPRESIDENT AND CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER OF THE PERFECT PURÉE OF NAPA VALLEY, CAME INTO THE WORLD OF COCKTAILS AFTER PREVIOUS TIME SPENT IN WINE AND HIGH-TECH. HER PARTICIPATION IN THE INDUSTRY HAS BEEN SOMEWHAT PERIPHERAL—AS A MIXER SUPPLIER— RATHER THAN AS A BARTENDER OR REPRESENTING A SPIRIT BRAND. Photo by TRYBE Creative
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“Being a supplier has been a great vantage point. I’ve been able to participate firsthand within the beverage community, witness its transformation and influence, and maintain the business focus needed to grow The Perfect Purée,” says Lex. “Mixers are the spanx that give lift to a cocktail. Not terribly sexy, but it can be a gamechanger,” jokes Lex. “For the past 12 years with Perfect Purée I’ve had the opportunity to redefine the brand to be more beverage focused, restructure our sales organization to rely on ambassadors similar to spirit brands, and develop the most unique line of blends in the industry—flavors that honor our culinary roots.” When Lex joined The Perfect Purée in 2008, the focus of the brand was primarily on chefs and back of the house. It quickly became apparent that savvy bartenders wanted quality mixers as part of their beverage programs. Not only because their guests were willing to pay for quality, but also because barmen, like chefs, were becoming mindful of using the best ingredients available. With some fine-tuning to their approach, active engagement with bartenders, and a respectful education of the spirits world, Lex was able to refine The Perfect Purée marketing strategy to communicate with bartenders in the same way as chefs. As a result, sales within the beverage sector had a tremendous trajectory.
“Success is knowing when to listen, knowing how to balance being a visionary with being an implementer, and going with your gut. You also have to champion yourself and your accomplishments.”
Here’s Michele Lex’s Top Picks for Industy Influencers
“Like many industries, the beverage business is a people business. You have to know how to connect deeply and how to be genuinely engaged,” explains Lex. “Success is knowing when to listen, knowing how to balance being a visionary with being an implementer, and going with your gut. You also have to champion yourself and your accomplishments.”
Annette AlvarezPeters “She really put Costco wine sales on the map and grew it into a distribution juggernaut.”
As a champion, pioneer, influencer, and woman, Lex believes there’s still a long way to go in the beverage industry for women to become more visible.
Mary Melton “Has been so pivotal to P.F. Chang’s beverage transformation.”
“It would be great to have more women peers in president and CEO roles in the spirits business. We have a healthy representation of brand ambassadors, but not so at the helm running the brands,” says Lex. “Empowerment to me is fair access to opportunities, free ability to pursue said opportunities, and complete control—without bias or retribution—to make decisions that impact.”
Kim Hassarud “Through her consulting work with P.F. Chang’s and other concepts, she has been a tour de force for national account beverage menu development.” Ivy Mix and Lynnette Marrero “They made giving back cool with Speed Rack.” Hollis Bulleit “Her courage reminds us that we are a community of people and sometimes community needs to address their demons.”
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LOCALS
DISTILLER PROFILE
Liz Berry, Congresswoman Gabrielle Giffords and Pia Carusone.
WOMEN SWAPPING POLITICS FOR SPIRITS By Colleen Thompson
C
ommunity funded and community-driven, is how Republic Restoratives describes the largest crowd-funded distillery in the world. Co-Founded by childhood friends Pia Carusone and Rachel Gardener, Republic Restoratives opened their distillery doors in Washington D.C in 2016 with a politically boozy line up: CIVIC Vodka, Borough Bourbon, Rodham Rye and, most recently, Chapmans Apple Brandy. Pia Carusone spent a decade of working in national politics, first as campaign manager to Congresswoman Carol Shea-Porter, then as Chief of Staff for former Congresswoman Gabrielle Giffords, and finally as assistant secretary for public affairs under President Obama. So, what made this “50 Politico’s to Watch” candidate pack it all in and start up a craft distillery? “There’s more of an applicable connection between politics and the distilling business than you think. And it’s not just the amount of whiskey consumed,” jokes Carusone. My work in politics was mostly project management. You need to have
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your hand in everything, but also empower your team to do the job you’ve entrusted them with. The D.C. small business community, and food and beverage in particular, is also so dynamic and welcoming. I also loved the idea of giving back to the city
glass we’ve installed. You can literally stand on the street and see inside.” Having people invested and participating was also a key goal from the start. Their crowd-funding initiative on Indiegogo raised over
There’s more of an applicable connection between politics and the distilling business than you think. — Pia Carusone, Co-Founder and obviously making whiskey isn’t a bad way to spend my days,” said Carusone. “We had a few key goals in mind and I do think we’ve been successful in achieving them. One was transparency. We wanted to offer a genuine look into our decisions and our work at Republic Restoratives” explains Carusone. “What we found when we toured a bunch of distilleries was how secretive everything was. We don’t see the need. We’re very honest about all the good and bad of running a distillery. So one of the first things visitors will see when they enter the distillery is all the
$119k and gave them the distinction of the largest crowd campaign in the United States. “Even now, four years later, people still come in that gave us $25 to see their name on the wall.” Carusone has always been an open book, both in terms of her career and her personal life. She has evolved into a spokesperson for the LGBTQ community along the way. “It’s as simple as being part of the LGBTQ community, so it’s personal. Our ability to give back through campaigns like the #CIVICPride to raise money for TransLAW is an easy connection for us and obviously so important right now.”
Enjoy America’s Best Dressed Bourbon Crafted & Aged in Tennessee 2019 & 2018 INTERNATIONAL REVIEW OF SPIRITS TASTINGS.COM 2018 CRITICS CHALLENGE INTERNATIONAL WINE & SPIRITS COMPETITION 2018 SAN FRANCISCO WORLD SPIRITS COMPETITION
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THE LOCALS
CEO PROFILE
VODKA, NEAT. AND, LIKE NOTHING ELSE. By John Bollow
Jeff Mahony believes you haven’t had vodka until you’ve tasted NEFT.
black barrel of vodka that he wanted me to try,” Mahony recalls. “I knew he probably wanted me to invest, but he didn’t give me an investor pitch, he simply asked me to try it.”
As its new CEO, that’s how Mahony looked at NEFT—something premium vodka drinkers were looking for … they just might not realize it yet.
Recalling that day two years ago when he was handed warm vodka, Mahony remembers, “I said to him, ‘You’re insane! Vodka, at room temperature?’ For years, I drank vodka on the rocks. But I tried it and I was blown away.” The vodka was smooth. Rich. With just a touch of sweetness born of real ingredients, not sugars. “It was so easy to sip,” says Mahony. “There was no bite. None of that rubbing alcohol taste that scares away many premium drinkers or relegates vodka to being mixed in drinks instead of being enjoyed for pure taste.
A vodka aficionado for three decades, Mahony often asked himself why there was not a premium vodka for sipping neat. Then one found him. “I was with friends at this ‘members-only’ club near the beach—more of a local dive bar—when this guy comes up to me with not a bottle, but a 1-liter
“So I’m sipping it room-temperature, neat—which, let me be clear—I’ve never done in all my 30 years of enjoying vodka,” shares Mahony. “And then it hit me. All those times I ordered vodka on the rocks was to make it more palatable, but all I was doing was diluting the taste.”
Throughout Mahony’s life, he’s seen opportunities in places where others have not. From creating aerospace patents to innovating banking ideas that provide opportunity for low-income families, he’s looked for gaps in the market—the white space— and then searched for an answer.
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Mahony’s interest in discovering gaps in the market began early on in his career when he put himself through school at UCLA as a cognitive science major, or what is now known as artificial intelligence. Even before he graduated he was tapped by the aerospace industry to work as a troubleshooter and sent all over the world from South Africa to Russia and from Australia to Austria. His intellectual curiosity and knack for computer code also led him to create an IT banking platform that gives greater opportunity to smaller investors who might otherwise be left behind. He was satisfying a market need that no one else was filling. So Mahony tried the vodka chilled with no ice. It was a revelation. Just as he’d done in the seemingly unrelated fields of aerospace and banking, Mahony realized the vodka category was missing something profound. “Look at the premium segment of so-called ‘sipping alcohol’—there’s rarely, if ever, a vodka, but that’s exactly how vodka was enjoyed throughout most of its history,” explains Mahony. “Like so many other times in my life, I’d been presented with a clear need in the market and had a way to fill it. NEFT was an answer to a question that I’d been asking myself for a long time … is there a vodka out there that can be enjoyed, on its own, solely for its taste?” Such was the beginning of Mahony’s story with NEFT. Of course he did his due diligence, discovering that the founders had gone to great
lengths to use not only the highest quality ingredients, but curated premium processes in Austria, a country he’d worked in previously. “I’d spent time there during my career and knew something about the country’s high standards,” says Mahony. The more Mahony learned about the vodka, the more he liked it. NEFT is made with pure spring water from a secure aquifer beneath the Alps; it uses a state-of-the-art carbon filtering process and is a blend of four non-GMO rye grains. And that was it. “That smooth, rich, slightly sweet taste that I was sipping had been made with no shortcuts of sugars or additives, just ancient grains, and water. The simplicity of that was very attractive to me,” admits Mahony. But there was something else. In the NEFT brand, Mahony found an underdog to champion. As the eldest son of a single mom, he always felt compelled to help not only his own family, but also those around him. “Mixing concrete, cleaning toilets, working in a warehouse, I did anything and everything I could,” he says. This included whatever he could do to raise-up those around him. Mahony didn’t want to just foster a niche beverage, he wanted NEFT, from a production standpoint, to truly scale. And with his ambitious plans to ramp up production, focus on handcrafted quality, and keep the family-run distillery now making NEFT in place, a hands-on approach was very important.
NEFT was an answer to a question that I’d been asking myself for a long time … is there vodka out there that can be enjoyed, on its own, solely for its taste? —Jeff Mahony, CEO, NEFT Vodka USA
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THE LOCALS
CEO PROFILE
The next challenge was to assemble a team and begin to forge a culture, which in many ways appeals to Mahony the most. “It’s about finding intelligent people and not vetoing them, but giving them room to run, and providing whatever resources they need. You hear a lot about ‘leadership’ in companies these days. When it comes to that, I believe that we all want to be recognized for what we do. So I keep two things in mind: when your people do something great, you give them more visibility. Shout their praises to the skies. And when they fail (and they will) you insulate them. You don’t expose them; you take the hit for them. Finally, I try to put my ego in the backseat for the sake of the result. That’s what I think is true leadership.” As he always has, Mahony seeks to craft a culture that doesn’t just say they have each other’s back, but actively lives it and part of that ethos means giving to those less fortunate. At-risk children, as he once was, are never far from his heart. “I want to help local
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charities who may not have resources to get more visibility. To be empowered. To find, as we have with NEFT, this intersection of need and desire,” he says. In many ways, NEFT is a metaphor for how Mahony has always lived his life and how he’d like others to live as well. “There’s a saying we have at NEFT,” Mahony concludes. “Life is a story, make it a good one. What we’re saying is, ‘in life, and in what you drink, don’t settle. Make an unexpected choice.’ We think that’s a better way to live.” John Bollow’s features on culture and history have appeared in The Saturday Evening Post and the Chicago Daily Herald. His memoir, Remember, You’re the Greatest, will be published next year. He lives with his wife in Pasadena, California, where their three rambunctious boys require them to have regular infusions of red wine and vodka. This is Bollow’s first article for Chilled.
NEGRONI SBAGLIATO ¾ oz Cinzano Vermouth Rosso ¾ oz Campari © Top with Cinzano Prosecco Prepare directly in a highball on the rocks. Garnish with a slice of orange.
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THE LOCALS
VP FOOD AND BEVERAGE
Michael MacDonnell Vice President of Food and Beverage
By Colleen Thompson F&B photos courtesy of Atlantis, Paradise Island Headshot by Jason Koerner Photography
I
t wasn’t until a few years ago, that Michael MacDonnell experienced the Bahamas for the first time. His venture there took him to one of the beautiful islands—Harbour Island—for a major Afrohead Rum cocktail competition. Not only did his Miami-based beverage team take first place in the event, but they also had an incredible opportunity to discover the culture of the island, the delicious local flavors, and also what makes it such a special destination. “As a creative type in the food and beverage industry, I felt that more could be done in the Bahamas to leverage this incredible sense of culture and the indigenous ingredients that the country has in the form of a unique cocktail program,” said MacDonnell. Two years later, his inspiration from Harbour Island took center stage. Atlantis Hotel in Paradise Island, Bahamas, appointed MacDonnell vice president of Food and Beverage, along with the task of creating a brand-new, resort-wide beverage program. MacDonnell’s programming was inspired by four key elements: local, tropical, fresh, and consistent. “For me, it was all about starting with the fundamental building blocks of the beverage, and from there,
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continuing to work hard at becoming more and more cutting edge in the industry,” he said. “We have since been able to offer our guests an iconic, world-class property experience complemented by a wide span of well-crafted cocktails from all over the world.” A purist at heart—all the way through the process, it’s important to MacDonnell to always maintain the integrity of each cocktail on the menu. “In studying the history of some of most important and successful cocktail eras, at no time did cocktails ever require heaps of sugar,” he explained. “Therefore, staying true to cocktail history and its roots is always the key to success in this industry with guests. The art of the cocktail is about quality and simplicity with a dash of controversy.” The use of fresh, local ingredients has been key to the success of MacDonnell’s program. Making strong connections with local farmers in the community, he is able to source sustainable ingredients to incorporate into the cocktails. “Pineapple is locally harvested from the island of Eleuthera and a handful of herbs are grown in Nassau,” said MacDonnell. “We also have a local florist that grows organic, edible flowers that we use pridefully in our cocktails. It’s a win-win for the program and the overall guest experience.”
100 % L E G E N DAR Y Gambler, buffalo hunter, army scout, gunfighter and newspaperman, William “Bat” Masterson did it all and did it well. And what better way to honor such a rarefied man than with a truly exceptional 100% rye whiskey.
International Review of Spirits, 2019 & 2018 Tastings.com
93 POINTS
Ultimate Spirits Challenge, 2019 F. Paul Pacult’s Spirit Journal, 2015
#1 WHISKEY OF 2016
Cigar & Spirits Magazine
mastersonsrye.com MASTERSON’S RYE WHISKEY 45% alcohol by volume / 90 proof ©2019 Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, Stamford, CT. Please Enjoy Responsibly.
THE LOCALS
COMPETITION
SHOWCASING THE INTENSITY RANGE
WITH THE CAMUS SHANGHAI SHAKE By Mathew Powers
JESSE PETERSON
C
amus Cognac recently launched its inaugural Shanghai Shake cocktail competition. The global contest challenged bartenders from around the world to put a twist on classic cocktails using two of its new and exceptionally aromatic cognacs: Very Special and VSOP. “The new generation of blends are more fruity, and the aromatic profile stays longer in cocktails even when mixing Camus Cognacs with strong ingredients; the new intensely aromatic cognacs are perfect in classic cocktails or even tiki concepts,” says Geo, Camus Global Master Mixologist.
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The new ranges are the latest creation from a Cognac-producing family that dates back five generations to 1863. The family has produced cognac from their private vineyard in the heart of the Borderies cru, the smallest and most rare cru in the cognac appellation. The region’s terroir coupled with meticulous distillation processes assures that Camus cognac offers an intense, pleasing aroma along with excellent flavor. The brands three new expressions; Very Special, VSOP, and XO are the result of a unique “intensity” process culminated with 15 years of research and development of intensely aromatic cognacs.
The competing bartenders were required to reference cocktail recipes recognized by the International Bartenders Association and substitute the new Camus ranges for base spirits along with including other ingredients, ostensibly reinterpreting classic recipes. In the first few rounds of the competition, Shanghai Shake contestants displayed their skills and creativity in several locations, including New Jersey, Los Angeles, Paris, and Moscow. Alexander Delgra of Cowan’s Public in New Jersey is one of two U.S. winners, gaining victory with My Cherie Amour (Camus Very Special, St. George coffee, Averna, and bitters). Jesse Peterson of Raised by Wolves in Hollywood won with Breakfast in Borderies, (which includes Camus Very Special, dried apricot infused-Lambay Single Malt Irish Whiskey, egg white, fresh lemon juice, and honey). The winners will join their fellow international finalists for a final “shake off” in Shanghai, China, at Bar Rouge this fall. Back at home, talented mixologists at countless bars and clubs will use the new ranges behind the bar. “Per glass, you can find between two to three different
aromatic notes and flavors over the condensation stage that shows our cognac,” explains Geo. “That helps to draw-in customers at the bar and entice them to try something other than whiskey or other spirits. And, it also has a perfect pairing-profile for cigars.” Clearly, the last thing Geo wants to do is stifle bartender creativity. “I know how annoying it is to have outside tips to fix my creative process (bartenders can relate), especially when people try to tell you what to do,” he says. “ But if I can suggest some innovative flavor profiles, it would be cumin, green apples, grapefruit, and passion fruit tea, among others. Or, even apricots and soft honey popcorn would hit on the right notes. Personally, I like strange ingredients with a mixedcultural base.” The Shanghai Shake competition is an “exchanging cultural approach, which is bounding the international bar communities together and providing a unique experience,” concludes Geo.
BREAKFAST IN BORDERIES Created by Jesse Peterson INGREDIENTS
1 ½ oz. Camus Cognac VS ½ oz. dried apricot infused-Lambay Irish Single Malt Whiskey ½ oz. egg white ¾ oz. fresh lemon juice ¾ oz. honey (housemade blend) PREPARATION
Add all ingredients to a cocktail tin. Give it a quick dry shake. Shake again with ice. Double strained into a cocktail coupe. Garnish with lemon expression and black tea/passionflower mist and a micro flower.
MY CHERIE AMOUR Created by Alexander Delgra INGREDIENTS
1 ½ oz. Camus Cognac VS ¾ oz. Amaro Averna ¾ oz. St. George NOLA Coffee Liqueur 2 dashes mole bitters PREPARATION
Stir with ice and strain into a chilled coupe. Float well-shaken heavy cream on top of the cocktail. Grate cinnamon to garnish.
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LOCALS
COMPETITION
A TOAST TO HITTING THE
G
LINKS
Great bartending requires many skills, one of which is telling an interesting story while creating a great cocktail. The folks at Harleston Green are making this task easy for bartenders with a tale of two American obsessions— Scotch and golf—brought together in one charming package. The Scots invented many things, and at around the turn of the 15th century, created what’s now the greatest of all pastimes, the game of golf. As the story goes, told by Daniel Undhammar, Edgewater Spirits vice president of sales: “Back when the new world was growing, a few ships came over from Scotland carrying Scottish merchants and their families. They docked in Charleston in the mid-1700’s and on these ships were the first sticks and balls (golf clubs and golf balls) to arrive in America. The merchants, after working day and night started to gather on Sundays in a beautiful little plot of land where they’d talk about life, laugh, and share news of home back in Scotland. Eventually, they started sharing the Sunday ritual with their German, Irish, Polish, and Italian neighbors and coworkers. They would introduce them to the game of golf over an elixir from home called whisky, Scotch whisky (which incidentally was brought over on the very same ships). The place was Harleston Green in Charleston, which became the first golf course in America.”
Harleston Green blended Scotch whisky commemorates the moment in 1786 when a group of Scottish merchants socially gathered with some sticks and balls and introduced America to Scotland’s two greatest exports. Bartenders with a great gift for storytelling can capture interest while mixing Harleston Green in everything from a basic Highball to a Rob Roy to Penicillin cocktails. The Scotch has several points that bartenders find appealing from being a blend of predominantly premium Highland and Speyside single malts with a unique DNA, including not only three-yearold malts but up to five-year-old malts. Plus the distillery in Loch Lomond own their cooperage, handling their barrels helps to maintain the highest quality and consistency in wood management and also locally source their grain for a ‘grain to glass’ blend that is more approachable, fruity, floral, and great in and out of cocktails. What a perfect introduction to Scotch whisky.
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HERE’S TO NEW BEGINNINGS Of course, gathering at the nineteenth hole is always better with a dram. Edgewater Spirits’ recent search for creative bartenders with the Shaken & Stirred Competition resulted in a ton of incredible cocktails. Bartenders entered recipes using either Wódka, one of the last estate-grown Polish rye vodkas on the planet, or Harleston Green Scotch.
WINNING COCKTAILS MADE WITH HARLESTON GREEN 1ST PLACE GOLD WINNER Tally Me Banana Greg Williamson Charleston, South Carolina
2ND PLACE SILVER WINNER Newburgh Sour Danilo Bozovic Miami, Florida 3RD PLACE BRONZE WINNER The Gilded Lion Robin Wolfe San Louis Obispo, California
WINNING COCKTAILS MADE WITH WÓDKA 1ST PLACE GOLD WINNER Tea-Ki Polski Lance Bowman Chicago, Illinois
2ND PLACE SILVER WINNER Mother of Dragons Mariah Stuchlik Vancouver, Washington 3RD PLACE BRONZE Beet, Don’t Kill My Vibe Gavin Nguyen Dallas, Texas
1ST PLACE GOLD WINNER
1ST PLACE GOLD WINNER
TALLY ME BANANA
TEA-KI POLSKI
HARLESTON GREEN
WÓDKA VODKA
Created by Greg Williamson
Created by Lance Bowman
INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS
2 oz. Harleston Green Scotch 1 whole egg ½ oz. spiced banana syrup (2:1)* ½ oz. Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao 2 dashes Angostura Bitters 1 dash Bittermens Xocolatl Mole Bitters Mint crown, orange peel and cayenne (for garnish)
2 oz. Wódka Vodka ½ oz. Taylor’s Velvet Falernum ¾ oz. lime juice ½ oz. chamomile syrup* 2 dashes Bittermens Elemakule Tiki Bitters Thinly sliced, folded lime wheel (for garnish)
PREPARATION
PREPARATION
Add ingredients to shaker, wet shake, dry shake, strain into chilled coupe. *Spiced Banana Syrup (2:1): Bring 2 cups white granulated sugar, 1 cup of water, 4 sliced bananas, 4 cinnamon sticks, 1 tbsp. raw honey, ½ tsp. fennel seed and 1 star anise to a slight boil, turn to low and let simmer for 15 minutes. Strain ingredients, let cook for 30 minutes.
Chill a coupe; combine all ingredients in a shaker tin, shake; double strain into chilled coupe. *Chamomile syrup: In 36 oz. of hot water steep ¾ oz. (approximately 12 standard tea bags) of chamomile tea, remove tea, and add 32 oz. by volume of sugar, stir to dissolve, strain bottle, label and date. CHILLEDMAGAZINE.COM
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THE LOCALS
ASK A BARTENDER
Creating an Eyegasm Cocktail Menu with
UNA MÁS By Mathew Powers | Photos by Matthew Schmidt @mattwschmidtphoto
Kevin Shayeghi
Omar Alexander
Max Boyens
we
live in a world dominated by social media, and sharing pictures of food and drinks is commonplace. So it only makes sense for bars to fashion photo-friendly cocktails. That’s where the UNA MÁS team—comprised of Conrad K. Pratt (@ConradKPratt), Max Boyens (@issamaximillian), Kevin Shayeghi (@shaggzness), and Omar Alexander (@omar_alexander_fit)— comes in. The team develops a menu of cocktails incorporating ingredients designed to give onlookers an “eyegasm.” The team motto: “If a cocktail we create isn’t better than sex in every aspect, we have failed miserably!” And who would know more about vibrant, sexy ingredients than four guys who collectively hail from Hawaii,
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Conrad K. Pratt
San Diego, El Salvador, and Orange County? And they’ve put in the work, too: “We’ve done it all: bartending, mixology, management, catering; it’s been a long road for all of us!”
In designing a cocktail menu, the foursome recommends concentrating on seasonal ingredients, including vegetables, fruit, and even flowers. They also noted that it’s crucial to stand out from the competition. “Have fun with your cocktails—ingredients, glassware, names, everything. Be different. It’s so much more fun than being normal!” Also, never be afraid to fail. “You’ll never know what ingredients oddly marry each other, and unless you go completely bonkers with some recipes, you’ll never create something that stands out,” explains the team. Additionally, Una Mas says bars should consider: What’s currently hot in the mixology scene? What cocktails aren’t selling? Are they worth keeping on the menu? Does the cocktail program tell a story? Is there a theme? Do the cocktails provide an eyegasm? If not, ditch them! Right now, the four are working with TomTom Bar in West Hollywood. “It’s a great fit for us because the ingredients they’ve brought in for their cocktail program are right up our alley.” You can also see their work by simply following UNA MÁS on Instagram at @unamascocktails.
Nirvana’s Forest
June Gloom
Chile Poderoso
Phi Phi Way
THE PERFECT RECIPE – SINCE 1857 –
©2019 Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL
The beautiful country surrounding Mt. Blanc which lies along the French Italian border is a region famous for the production of a very special quality Vermouth. Boissiere Vermouth has been a cult favorite in classic cocktails since 1857.
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MIX IT UP
CELEBRITY SIPS
SOME CELEBRITY WOMEN HAVE INSPIRED US WITH THEIR EXEMPLARY STRENGTH BECAUSE THEY STAND UP FOR OTHERS AND WHAT THEY BELIEVE IN, DESPITE THE STATUS QUO. THESE INCREDIBLE WOMEN EMPOWER OTHERS AND IMPACT THE LIVES OF MILLIONS OF PEOPLE. A TOAST TO THESE LADIES WITH THEIR FAVORITE COCKTAILS, HERE’S WHAT THEY’RE HAVING.
NICOLE KIDMAN In her recent SAG Awards acceptance speech, she used her platform to draw attention to ageism in the entertainment industry. Kidman won for her role in Big Little Lies—her and her costars, Laura Dern and Reese Witherspoon, love drinking red wine.
AMAL CLOONEY As well as practicing law, Amal contributes to the Global Rights Summit, focusing on defending the rights of women in war zones. Amal drinks Casamigos Tequila, of course, in support of her famous husband, George’s, tequila brand. In fact at the couples wedding, “Clooney got behind the bar and was making cocktails for everyone,” according to a story published from Page Six.
ANGELINA JOLIE No do-good celebrity shout out would be complete without including tireless humanitarian worker, Angelina Jolie. The star’s commitment and involvement with the UN is unparalleled, not to mention she has adopted four children from third world countries. Despite her split from Brad Pitt, the two continue to release new wine from the Miraval estate. So, we toast Angelina with a glass of vino.
EMILY RATAJKOWSKI Emily actively speaks out for women’s rights and she even has an essay published in Lena Dunham’s Lenny Letter addressing the subject. Emily likes to sip Corona Light.
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HALSEY The singer recently shared a poem titled “A Story Like Mine,” at the 2018 Women’s March in Los Angeles, relaying a powerful account of abuse. Halsey is a fan of Jack Daniel’s neat.
“I DEFEND MY AMERICAN RIGHT TO TAKE A DRINK WHEN I FEEL LIKE IT”
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SPECIAL SECTION
INDUSTRY INDUSTRYINFLUENCERS INFLUENCERS
HERE'S TO
STRONG WOMEN
Liquor’s leading ladies share ways to promote empowerment and leadership with today’s women in the spirits industry.
>>
Chilled empowers and inspires women in today’s spirits industry by sharing insight from influential and pioneering women. These leading ladies have a range of interesting backgrounds in the industry and found success throughout the course of their professional lives. Here’s what these powerhouse women had to say.
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SPECIAL NOTE FROM
MS. FRANKY MARSHALL
Photo by Elliot Clark
>>
franky is an industry veteran who’s worked in New York’s most notable cocktail bars like Clover Club and Dead Rabbit. In 2017 she was inducted into Tales of the Cocktail’s Dame Hall of Fame and made its Top 10 List for American Bartender of the Year. Not only has she earned her share of titles as a competitor, but franky also acted as judge for numerous spirit and cocktail competitions. “Before I entered into the cocktail world, I was bartending at a variety of places—I started noticing articles about craft cocktails, fresh juices (whoa!), and this different style of bartending. I was intrigued and decided to investigate further.
After applying at a few cocktail bars with no success, I managed to get an interview at Clover Club where Julie Reiner and Susan Fedroff took me on as a server. In less than a year I worked my way to behind the bar. That job greatly impacted my professional life and led to so many other opportunities. I am happy to learn from anyone, but I always feel particularly inspired by people who are intelligent, erudite, accomplished, and confident, especially when they are also kind and humble.
which makes them a confident, well-rounded, powerful individual.
more and
Empowering someone means helping them to seize opportunities for self-improvement and growth through learning and experiences,
Empowerment of women means: including us in the entire conversation, one that involves everyone, not just women. We deserve that.
It also means not restricting people, not relegating or forcing them to exist solely in categories based on gender, race, sexual preference, etc. For example: I’ve heard people refer to someone as a ‘great female bartender,’ which begs the question: If you include them with men, are they just an average bartender? Is there a difference in criteria? No, there’s not.
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SPECIAL SECTION
INDUSTRY INFLUENCERS
>> RACHEL FONTANA Rachel is the Director of Strategic Communications for Sagamore Spirits in Baltimore, tasked with developing the product’s story and spreading the word about the brand’s intention to return rye whiskey to the forefront of today’s classic cocktails.
WOMANLY ADVICE?
WOMEN'S EMPOWERMENT?
FEMALE CHANGES?
It means everything. It means putting down your phone when your female colleague is speaking. It means holding the door for an extra beat when a mom is juggling groceries and a stroller. It’s speaking to young women about the values of friendship, honesty, and hard work. If we celebrate individuality without judgment, we empower everyone.
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Speak up. Being a woman in this industry does not make you an imposter. It makes you uniquely qualified to challenge the status quo. Leadership will always require risk, might as well take it.
Yes and no. I’ve enjoyed learning from female distillers and business owners. But at major whiskey conventions, people still call me the ‘shots girl.’ Many ask if my dad owns the business. Every day, someone is going to think I’m the hired help, so every day is a chance to prove them wrong.
>>
JULIA MOMOSE Julia has overseen bar programs in some of the most acclaimed bars in Chicago, including Green River and The Annex. Currently, she curates the beverage program at Oriole and runs her own bar, Kumiko, as a partner.
WOMEN'S EMPOWERMENT?
Empowering women in our industry means opening up a whole world of possibilities for positive change and growth. There are people of color and the LGBTQ+ community who need the same support and respect. I hope that as women are empowered that they will do what they can to bring up others, to create safe workspaces, and growth in all communities.
YOUR FEMALE INFLUENCERS?
My mother was and is my biggest influence. Throughout my childhood, she showed me how to be a gracious host, and how to care for and to anticipate the needs of others. How she adapts to situations is inspiring and I aspire to be as graceful in hospitality as she is in life.
WOMANLY ADVICE?
No matter what happens, life goes on and that you are not alone. Do not be afraid to ask for help, and to speak up when you see, hear, or feel something that’s not right. Do not be afraid to leave an unsafe or unhealthy work environment.
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SPECIAL SECTION
INDUSTRY INFLUENCERS
CHRISTY POPE
>>
Christy started her career at New York City’s legendary Milk & Honey, and Little Branch. Then with partners Chad Solomon and Sasha Petraske opened Cuffs & Buttons, which helped shape the craft cocktail movement. Christy again partnered with Solomon and Audrey Saunder’s to create the Tar Pit in Los Angeles. Most recently, Christy and Solomon created Midnight Rambler bar, which won Nightclub and Bar Magazine’s Hotel Bar of the Year 2019 and was nominated in the top four, Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards for two consecutive years.
WOMEN'S EMPOWERMENT?
The empowerment of women to me means equality—the same rules and the same rewards.
YOUR FEMALE INFLUENCERS?
My two biggest are Audrey Saunders and Lisa Laird Dunn. I learned a tremendous amount from Audrey working together on the Tar Pit project. My style emanates from the core foundations on technique and philosophies from working in the Petraske camp with the expansive creative drive and search for optimum flavor that defines Audrey’s camp. Lisa Laird has been a critical relationship as I have transitioned from working girl to working mom. I have know Lisa for nearly as long as I have been in the business and always been a fan of her ability to be a strong female presence in the spirits world.
WOMANLY ADVICE?
Define success in your own terms. Determine what’s successful to you and be true to that. Don’t get caught up in the comparisons of others. We’re all forging our own paths, as long as you feel successful within yourself, then you are indeed successful.
FEMALE CHANGES?
From my perspective, females in the spirits industry have always been supportive of women as a whole. I’ve had many great connections with all different types of ladies who embody all different types of industry roles. Institutions like the Dames Hall of Fame and Speed Rack are examples but, on a much granular basis the majority of the women I know working and making a mark in the spirits industry are meaningful people ready to support others.
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LONG EDDY, NY
DI ST I L L E RY
Catskill Provisions is proud to be woman owned and operated, from our honey bees to our founder, distiller and beekeeper, Claire Marin. Honey is at the heart of our award-winning Catskill Provisions Rye Whiskey Finished in Honey Barrels, and sustainability is in our soul. The Buzz: The perfect balance between spice and sweetness. The Sting: none here!
CATSKILLPROVISIONS.COM
ALSO TRY OUR
Our distinct artisanal vodka is a grain-to-glass spirit distilled from non-GMO corn and our wildflower honey, then proofed down with pure, mineral-rich Catskill Mountains spring water. This vodka is ideal for sipping on the rocks or mixed into a delicious cocktail. Happy Bees Make Better Honey‌and Vodka!
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MYRIAM >> HENDRICKX Myriam Hendrickx is the master distiller of Rutte, an eighth-generation genever distillery in the Netherlands.
WOMEN’S EMPOWERMENT?
I was fortunate enough to have a lot of support from the man in my life; including my male colleagues and chefs from the start of my career thirty-two years ago until today. At my first job, being twentythree years old and teaching, I had to stand up for myself to be taken seriously. I learned very quickly that knowledge and humor was key. Knowledge to show these guys they could learn something from me and humor to be able to laugh with them and not feel offended when they made awkward remarks.
YOUR FEMALE INFLUENCERS?
I admire brave women, who dare to stand up in difficult or dangerous situations. Like the first women who fought for equality more than a 100 years ago—one of them was Aletta Jacobs. Jacobs was a Dutch physician and women’s suffrage activist. She was the first woman to attend a Dutch university, became one of the first female physicians in the Netherlands and in 1882, founded the world’s first birth control clinic. I admire women of today like Michelle Obama, whose final speech was spot on my motto in life: ‘be focused, be determined, be hopeful, be empowered. Lead with hope, never fear.’ Women like her can inspire young girls.
WOMANLY ADVICE?
Don’t be too modest: know you’re worth. A bit of frustration is healthy to achieve things, but if you find yourself surrounded by impossibilities change your surroundings. There are enough places where talented women are wanted and needed. If you want to work with the boys, you don’t need to become one … but don’t be too rigid either. Keep your femininity and your professional distance at the same time.
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Since 2006, Regatta has been making award winning ginger beer crafted in small batches from a blend of the world’s highest quality ginger. We now proudly offer a full line of premium craft mixers speciďŹ cally created to mix well with all types of spirits.
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NATALIA >> CARDENAS Natalia is currently the beverage development manager at Breakthru Beverage and has been recognized for her industry knowledge behind the bar.
WOMEN'S EMPOWERMENT?
We have the opportunity to raise our collective voice and we should take that seriously. I think women in the industry look out for one another, ask questions, seek advice, bounce ideas off one another. We’re experiencing a cultural shift in the industry. We understand that we are all trying to survive, thrive, and do the best we can.
FEMALE CHANGES?
It seemed everyone behind the bar was competing for most brash. Brashness was what got publicized. I thought that’s what I had to be to be successful but that didn’t align with who I am. Today, we’ve hit this wonderful stride in the industry where we’re encouraged to be authentic to ourselves. I think that’s part of why more women are getting noticed.
WOMANLY ADVICE?
Develop thick skin. It comes from being criticized, from being disliked. Don’t dwell. Things will always go awry. Pick up the lesson and move on. Reliability and stability go a long way. Assume nothing. Be clear about what you mean and about your intentions and demand the same.
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fairport, ny
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MERRILEE >> KICK
Merrilee created BuzzBallz and founded Southern Champion, LLC in Carrollton, Texas, the first woman-owned distillery and winery in the country.
WOMEN'S EMPOWERMENT?
Empowering women is giving them the confidence to take a stand, speak their mind, and support their ideas. It’s listening to their problems and keeping it confidential, giving them a safe place to vent.
YOUR FEMALE INFLUENCERS?
Three very memorable peers from my Women Presidents Organization and EY Winning Women contacts have helped me along the way: Claudia Mirza was a power force who encouraged me to apply to Harvard’s OPM program. She taught me how to get on the speaking tracks where I’m asked to be a guest speaker at events and educational/ women’s programs. Other great mentors were EY’s Debra Von Storch and Allison Gutterman who is the CEO of Jelmar which makes Tarnex/CLR, and other industrial brands, who encouraged me to join WPO Platinum and C200, two awesome women’s organizations which have helped educate me, and increase my networking at the top.
WOMANLY ADVICE?
First, don’t be man-haters! They will be your best allies, especially in a maledominated industry like this one. Let others help you grow. Work harder than everyone else, earn your stripes and keep doing it until they notice.
FEMALE CHANGES?
Men and women complement each other in management and the C-Suite. For example, I generally hire women in roles that require intense detail—they’re great at multitasking and they take control. They can crank through enormous loads of tasks and still handle more. A balanced employee set is best, either way.
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>> ALICIA WALTON Alicia has worked at some great bars around the San Francisco area like Brass Tacks, Elixir, Martuni’s, Bloodhound, and Comstock. She recently opened her own bar called The Sea Star—a neighborhood spot located in the heart of Dogpatch.
WOMEN'S EMPOWERMENT?
Equality is so important. Having a voice that’s heard, appreciated for the words spoken, and to have no fear in saying them is important. We must work together so we can all rise up, and help those that are less fortunate. At my bar, we have a cocktail called Kiki’s Rainbow. When ordered, a dollar of each sale goes to Woman.Inc (Women Organized to Make Abuse Nonexistent), a local organization helping victims of domestic abuse.
WOMANLY ADVICE?
Work hard, stay true to yourself, and remember to take care of your body. Our jobs are pretty physical, even if you’re not bartending. We have one vehicle for this life; you must nurture it and take care of it so you’re strong enough to take care of others. Oh, and don’t forget to enjoy the ride!
FEMALE CHANGES?
Women are receiving more recognition for their accomplishments than in years past. You’re also seeing more female bar and restaurant owners, chefs, beverage directors, somms, and brand ambassadors in our industry. And you know what, they’re killing it!
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ANGIE FETHERSTON
Angie is the CEO of Drink Company, a hospitality group based in Washington D.C., which she co-founded with Derek Brown in 2010. They own several businesses together, including Columbia Room. In 2016, the TOTC Dame Hall Of Fame, which celebrates groundbreaking achievements by women, inducted Angie. She was also named in Washingtonian magazine’s 2017 list of Most Powerful Women in D.C. Women to Watch.
WOMEN'S EMPOWERMENT?
I think we build on the success of others. I would not have succeeded in this industry without the pioneering women that came before me and laid the groundwork. I’m hopeful that my example as a female owner helps other women aspire to even greater entrepreneurial success.
YOUR FEMALE INFLUENCERS?
I’ve always had powerful female role models, including my mother, Maria Aspiazu, and grandmother, Annabelle Nebel, who started a feminist book club that became a movement. Also, my two college mentors
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who helped guide me in my career: Smithsonian Institution CMO, Julissa Marenco, and World Poker Tour co-founder, Audrey Kania.
WOMANLY ADVICE?
Be kind and help others succeed. That’s not the opposite of being ambitious and goal-oriented. In Al Gore’s Nobel Prize acceptance speech, he quotes the proverb, “if you want to go fast, go alone. If you want to go far, go together.” I’ve found this time and again to be true. It’s the real connections I’ve made with people in this industry that have enabled my achievements.
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INDUSTRY INFLUENCERS WOMEN'S EMPOWERMENT?
For me it means working together toward a common goal and it’s okay to agree to disagree along the way. Being true to yourself, confident, and using your platform and voice to ensure everyone is treated equally. We should always be thinking about how we can empower women in our personal and professional lives. In my experience, there is a great deal of respect for each other’s accomplishments as well as achievements. At the core women like to support each other. I have seen them mentor, educate, and provide roles, especially within the bartending community, that will help set them on a leadership path that will empower them to have a voice and then pay it forward by empowering others along the way. They support each other socially and the influencers are using their platforms to encourage other women daily.
YOUR FEMALE INFLUENCERS?
My mom hands down. She was a singer, an artist, and a teacher for 37 years working full-time all while raising seven children. She showed us that the sky is the limit and you can achieve anything you set out to do. We were always encouraged to work hard and strive to do our best. There are so many silent women who’ve helped pave the way during a time when men were the breadwinners and heads of the household much like my dad. That was the norm!
WOMANLY ADVICE?
>>
PAULA NOVEMBER After a career in selling wine storage, custom designing wine cellars and working for Wine Enthusiast Magazine, November started a business as a consultant for multiple companies that focused on building sales and event management. She joined Reed Exhibitions seven years ago launching various types of industry events for the trade, which brought her to become event vice president for Bar Convent Brooklyn (BCB).
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Pick positions, projects, and career paths that you can be passionate about and some may even catch you by surprise along the way. Do what you say you are going to do and don’t be afraid to challenge the status quo. Presenting your best effort always supports effort. Remember that each job or role has a purpose, and that is what ultimately shapes us for success. I have been fortunate to have success and along the way have rebounded from failure. These opportunities are always rewarding and yet challenging at times. It’s these types of challenges that make you stronger. Success is creating your own standards and not how you’re measured by others.
FEMALE CHANGES?
Being aware of the environment has been a key factor in the change for women over the past ten years, what has sparked that change is the action of a strong women’s workforce and fostering support of each other. There have been many dynamic women finally getting recognition by creating a voice for each other, enabling growth. I have been fortunate to work with some incredible women across multiple industries leading the change for women.
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>>
SPEED RACK
Speed Rack is an all-female cocktail competition featuring top bartenders in key cocktail markets. As the first competition of its kind, strong women in the industry go head to head with 100% of the proceeds from the events donated to breast cancer education, prevention, and research.
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Chilled spoke with Lynnette Marrero, Speed Rack cofounder about this groundbreaking event paving the way for women in the bartending industry.
WHAT WAS THE INSPIRATION TO START SPEED RACK?
We noticed a lack of women being presented by media and at the helm of top bars. Women were active in the cocktail scene, but not given a platform to show their abilities, and frankly, to be seen. I was going to LUPEC events where we did guest shifts with women bartenders for charity. Ivy Mix (Speed Rack co-founder) became a member, and after working a Manhattan Cocktail Classic (MCC) event, she proposed we do a competition following the format of bartending for charity while promoting women.
HOW DOES SPEED RACK INFLUENCE FEMALE BARTENDERS?
IVY MIX & LYNNETTE MARRERO
>>
It gives them a community to belong to long after the competition is over. For many, it’s a personal challenge, and they train to push themselves. We have also added more educational opportunities for women, which is a big focus for us. BAR (Beverage Alcohol Resource 5-Day Certification Program) gives the winner a scholarship, which is tremendous. Other brands have given us the ability to offer even more education to more women. Many competing women tell us Speed Rack on their resume has opened up doors for them.
HOW HAS THE COMPETITION GROWN? We are now in over five countries and growing.
Chilled asked Haley Traub, last year’s Speed Rack U.S. Season 7 National Finals Winner, about her experience.
TELL US ABOUT YOUR EXPERIENCE WITH SPEED RACK.
The majority of my experience was actually as a spectator. For years I looked forward to the event—I’d go with other bartenders to cheer for these amazing women. I wanted to compete myself but wanted to wait until I was ready and felt secure enough in my skills as a bartender to give it my all. When Season 7 came, I applied to compete for the first time, which is when I won Tri-State and Nationals. Being heavily involved on both sides of the competition—as a spectator and as a competitor—made me appreciate just how special and important Speed Rack is to the bar industry.
HOW HAS THE COMPETITION INFLUENCED YOUR CAREER?
Since competing in Speed Rack, I’ve met so many wonderful people in every aspect of this industry,
including bartenders, servers, ambassadors, proprietors, etc. The competition has influenced my career in so many ways, but one that I’m extremely grateful for is how well rounded it’s made me.
WHAT WOULD YOU TELL OTHERS, INTERESTED IN COMPETING?
Work hard, put the hours in, study, put even more hours in, and remember that if you don’t win, you’re still a great bartender.
WHAT WAS YOUR FAVORITE PART ABOUT SPEED RACK?
Admittedly, I am an extremely competitive person, so the rush of being on stage and having to perform very quickly at something I am good at was exhilarating. To do that alongside, and under the guidance of so many women I respect and admire was delicious icing on the cake.
TELL US HOW WOMEN CAN EMPOWER ONE ANOTHER IN THIS INDUSTRY?
In a world where so many people don’t have our backs, have all of them. It’s easier to get to the top with help, kindness, and support—and it’s a lot more fun that way, too. CHILLEDMAGAZINE.COM
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BACARDI'S >> SPIRIT FORWARD PROGRAM
Elizabeth Costa de Rusch (Director of Advocacy Bacardi USA), Bianca Padilla (Event Producer TEAM Enterprises), and Jennifer Contraveos (Sr. Portfolio Ambassador Bacardi USA).
TALK TO US ABOUT BACARDI’S SPIRIT FORWARD PROGRAM FOR WOMEN’S EMPOWERMENT.
The Spirit Forward Women Empowerment Series is produced by Bacardi to champion the outstanding individuals that make up the hospitality community while elevating them to their highest potential. Spirit Forward (one of several activities under the Bacardi Women in Leadership initiative) is part of our commitment to growth, by bringing people together and unleashing the diverse talent of today’s consumers and our industry. As a family-owned business for more than 157 years, Bacardi has always been committed to giving back to our communities. Spirit Forward is a way to support and invest in the talent that works day-in and day-out in the hospitality world. Our focus is to provide topics and tools that support women in the trade. The full-day program travels across cities to inspire conversations about representation, disrupting the status quo, and inclusivity—all while celebrating individuality and originality. In its second year, the series traveled to Chicago, Los Angeles, and New York, and we are now busy planning destinations for 2020.
WHAT ARE SOME OF THE IMPORTANT HAPPENINGS AT THESE EVENTS?
Attendees participate in discussions tackling some of the toughest questions facing the industry today, led by female leaders and entrepreneurs who have
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The Bacardi Women in Leadership initiative, which produces the Spirit Forward Summit in London and Miami along with the Spirit Forward Series, a more intimate traveling program crafted especially for the hospitality and spirits industry unleashes the potential of current and future leaders. Chilled spoke with Elizabeth Costa de Rusch about the Bacardi Spirit Forward Series.
overcome obstacles and forged their own paths. Along with motivating stories, key insights, and compelling advice, experts teach participants how to handle their finances, build their digital brands, and incorporate social activism into their careers. It’s also a great opportunity to meet professionals from the spirits industry and develop new connections.
WHY ARE EVENTS LIKE THESE IMPORTANT?
Creating a space where women, and men alike, can share and learn from one another is the definition of community and the reason we created the series. To us, it’s important to celebrate the women in the hospitality industry and share our successes and challenges. It’s also a day of self-care because we take a breath from our hectic lives to focus on ourselves and reflect on our personal goals. Spirit Forward’s goal is for women in the industry to feel its ripple effects in the form of growth and camaraderie.
WHAT CAN WOMEN DO TO HELP EMPOWER ONE ANOTHER IN THE SPIRITS INDUSTRY?
Sharing your stories and experiences, guide those who are new to the industry, and building your teams and network to reflect a diverse and strong group of women. If we’re climbing, let’s bring other women up with us. www.bacardi-women-in-leadership.com
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MEDIA MAVENS LONG BEFORE THE SPIRITS INDUSTRY EMBRACED WOMEN BEHIND THE BAR AND IN EXECUTIVE POSITIONS AT BEVERAGE COMPANIES, THESE WOMEN WERE PIONEERING AND BUILDING BRANDS THROUGH PUBLIC RELATIONS AND MARKETING.
YVONNE NABER
>>
With her own business and a resume consisting of numerous consulting projects in communications and branding on the corporate level as well as the agency side, Yvonne is currently with Global PR for the Dutch family business, De Kuyper Royal Distillers. “I think it’s important to stay as you are as a female businesswoman, using your feminine nature while being a tough leader. Empathy is my most used skill. I take an interest in another, giving a sense of appreciation and empowerment while discovering talent. And I always take everything with a healthy dose of humor!”
DEBBIE RIZZO >> In the business for almost 20 years, Debbie got her start working with Sam Adam’s PR team at Jackson & Co. She is the founder of DRink PR, a national lifestyle public relations agency specializing in food and beverage lifestyle.
“As far as traditional PR, the industry is flooded with big firms as well as many independent consultants like myself. There’s an art to public relations, and relationships take a long time to build. My advice to others wanting to succeed in this business is to expect long hours and to pay your dues. Be sure to work for a firm that supports you, elevates you, and enables you to grow. There’s no room for unsupportive bosses.”
CHRISTINE DEUSSEN
>>
Born to European parents, wine was part of every meal. From working in marketing for Champagne Veuve Clicquot to opening her own firm in 2002, Deussen Global Communications specializes in wine and spirits, as well as ancillary luxury travel disciplines including fine dining and hotels. “The most important business lessons I’ve learned over the years are to understand the end consumer, always think strategically (What are you trying to achieve?), immerse yourself in your customers’ categories and brands and enjoy that journey, always do your best even when you fail. Do what you love, and never give up. “Enjoy the ride. Both wine and spirits and communications are bedrocks of the human connection. We are lucky to work in this field.”
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Photo by Rick Camargo
“I belong to a host of PR professional groups that find ways to support one another. PR has a tendency to be cutthroat, so surrounding myself with likeminded colleagues, especially women, is helpful.
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INDUSTRY INFLUENCERS
BETHANY BURKE
>>
A 17-year industry veteran, Bethany has built a dynamic team specializing in public relations, internal communications, event execution, and digital communication. She is senior vice president, public relations & corporate communications for Taub Family Companies. “One of the most fundamental elements to achieving success is challenging yourself every single day to step outside of your comfort zone and learn. There is tremendous value in building a team of diverse professionals who can shine in their respective areas of expertise, and taking every opportunity to learn from them. Don’t try to be the smartest person in the room. If you feel like you are, find a new room ... quick! “Collaboration is my most used skill; if you can objectively consider the various points of view in any given situation, you are well on your way to reaching a positive result.”
KATE LAUFER GORENSTEIN >> After ten years of experience with PR agencies, including serving as vice president for Sidney Frank Importing Company, Kate founded KLG Public Relations, an award-winning agency in wine and spirits. “I once had a boss ask me if I would choose to have a family or a career, which fueled me to demonstrate that you can have it all. I feel a responsibility to lead by example and ensure that women know there is a path to success available. Transparency and fairness are paramount. I believe in building a business the right way, with controlled growth and a well-curated client roster. I won’t compromise quality for financial gain. “I learned that to take a risk, to take that chance ... you must have a fear of something greater than your fear of failing. So, if that’s the case—take that step. I did, and I have no regrets whatsoever. The best thing to do is start before you’re ready. And I did.”
PATTI COSTANTINO
>>
PSC Communications principal, Patti, is an accomplished marketing communications leader across the food, wine, and spirits industries. Recently, Patti served as U.S. public relations lead at Bacardi USA, where she managed the national launch of its new super-premium sipping offering, the Facundo Rum Collection. “As a public relations professional, there are fewer barriers to success as a woman, with so many female role models to emulate. “My advice to other women is H.U.S.T.L.E. Plain and simple. Be agile and find a way to make things work if you believe it will lead to success and fulfillment. “I met with the V.P. of a major spirits company about taking on a consulting role that would require me to spend part of the week in another state. He asked how I’d be able to balance the job with being a parent (something a man would never be asked). Without flinching, I said, ‘I’ll figure it out. I’ll make it work.’ And I did. Sometimes, you have to take a leap of faith, knowing that it will all work out.”
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Š 2019 123 Spirits, LLC. Photo Š Michael Elins
The Man Behind the Brands
123spirits.com EU Organic
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the Cork Heroines of
“I DRINK IT WHEN I’M HAPPY AND WHEN I’M SAD. SOMETIMES I DRINK IT WHEN I’M ALONE. WHEN I HAVE COMPANY, I CONSIDER IT OBLIGATORY. I TRIFLE WITH IT IF I’M NOT HUNGRY AND DRINK IT WHEN I AM. OTHERWISE, I NEVER TOUCH IT – UNLESS I’M THIRSTY.” Wise words from Lily Bollinger, who was thrust into her role as a winemaker at the age of 42, after the death of her husband, and ended up pioneering Bollinger Champagne into a global empire. She doesn’t, however, stand alone on this journey. Behind the most iconic Champagne houses in history stand a collection of formidable women: Madame Clicquot (Veuve Clicquot), Madame Pommery (Pommery Champagne), Marie-Louise Lanson de Nonancourt (Laurent-Perrier), Apolline Henriot, Veuve Fourny and Veuve Doussot.
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Women, as a rule, haven’t ended up in the Champagne business purely by default: it’s largely been through obligation or vocation. The Champagne world today is still paved with strong women taking on new challenges, innovating, and continuing to build upon these century old icons. Chilled recently spoke to Maggie Henriquez, President of Krug Champagne and Moet Hennessy Estates & Wine, along with young Champenoise Pauline Lhote, director of winemaking of Chandon, for a history lesson and to talk about all things bubbly.
A Bubbly History of Widowhood Champagne was one of the first industries in the modern world that women shaped and also gave rise to the first female CEOs in France. A few men had to step aside to make way for their widows, or veuve in French, to assume roles that were unheard of for their time. From the style of the bulging bottles to the effervescent taste, the pale golden color, the innovative production techniques, and “ballsy” marketing—their contributions have shaped the modern Champagne industry. A new generation of women has now entered the realm of Champagne. Venezuelan born, Harvard graduate, Henriquez was brought on board at Champagne Krug to apply her vision and maintain the sophistication the House of Krug has embodied since 1843. “Women have been prominent in Champagne for centuries, often occupying overt and unspoken roles within the Houses,” says Henriquez. “A beautiful story comes to mind about Jeanne Krug. While her husband was a prisoner of war during the First World War, she kept his dream alive at a dramatic time when the cellars doubled as military hospitals, churches, and schools. She and her husband Joseph wrote letters to each other about the harvest and winemaking,” says Henriquez. Jeanne Krug ultimately oversaw the creation of the 1915 vintage, one of the houses finest, with only three remaining bottles in the Krug cellar.
A New Era of Women “When I became CEO of Krug in 2009, I was the first Latin American person to lead a Champagne House,” says Henriquez. “I feel very proud to contribute to Champagne as so many women have been able to do in a significant way in the past. The widows of Champagne were among the first businesswomen of the region. In many respects, they paved the way for women like me in Champagne,” she says.
Maggie Henriquez
For Henriquez, it has been an unforgettable journey for the past ten years. Her insight, along with her innovative and contemporary vision, has forged new inroads for Krug Champagne in a digital era. Discovering the notebook of founder Joseph Krug inspired the creation Krug ID and the launch of Krug’s music experiences, along with introducing the Éditions of Krug Grande Cuvée and Krug Rosé. “We discovered Joseph Krug’s notebook in which he transcribed his dream for the House,” says Henriquez. “Krug ID, the six digits on the back label of any bottle of Krug Champagne, can be entered online to reveal the full story of each bottle’s creation.” Krug’s musical approach has resulted in researching and experimenting with music to understand the impact it can have on the tasting experience. “Krug Music Pairings reveal music selected or created specifically for our Champagnes by artists who transform their tasting sensations into musical scores and echoes, designed to enhance the Krug experience with sound,” explains Henriquez. Although the Champagne business is largely dominated by men these days, Henriquez is not alone at the helm. There are many others serving as the next wave of champions for women across the region.
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“I knew I wanted to make bubbles.” Their stories make up the modernday narrative of champagne. Nathalie Vranken is the CEO of Pommery; Carol Duval-Leroy is the owner of Duval-Leroy; Anne Malassagne is a fourth-generation co-owner of AR Lenoble Champagne, an independent, family-owned house. Vitalie Taittinger is helping to steer the 300-year-old Champagne House into a new era; Alice Paillard comanages Bruno Paillard Champagne; and Floriane Eznack is Cellar Master of Champagne Jacquart.
but they do provide a blueprint and examples for other women winemakers to aspire. “For me, like everyone, I had opportunities and challenges in the industry, but I don’t think it was a result of being a woman in my field,” confesses Lhote. “I grew up working on a farm with two older brothers, and so navigating a male-dominated field was nothing new to me. I do think as a minority in this industry, both as a woman and because I’m younger than most in my field, it’s especially important to be confident and assertive. In 2020, I believe there will be more opportunities for women in wine to support one another. More women are working in wine and I take time to mentor young women to help them navigate the industry.”
Across the continent, in the beautiful Napa Valley at the Chandon vineyards (Established in 1973 by Moët et Chandon), Pauline Lhote is dedicated to upholding the values that unite all of these women: pride in their work, respect for the land, a passion for winemaking, and a commitment to honoring those that came before. “My greatest mentors and role models have been the generations of female winemakers who came before me and blazed a trail to prove that women can do this job,” says Lhote. Dawnine Dyer was the first female winemaker for Chandon back in the seventies, and one of the first in the entire Napa Valley region. Her work revolutionized sparkling winemaking for Northern California. “When I came to Chandon California, I felt great pride in reigniting that torch, carrying forward a strong female legacy for the estate, which is such a young, femaleforward sparkling wine brand,” says Lhote. Growing up in Champagne, France, Lhote was always surrounded by sparkling wine. “When I was really young, maybe 14 years-old, I knew I wanted to be a winemaker and not just any winemaker. I knew I wanted to make bubbles,” she says.
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With 31 years in the wine and spirits business, Henriquez believes that women in wine, like all professionals, are considered first and foremost for their accomplishments and abilities. Pauline Lhote
She applied to winemaking schools and was fortunate enough to attend the top sparkling school, the University of Reims in Champagne. After graduation, she began her first position with Chandon. “I was only supposed to be in the U.S. for three months, but from the moment I arrived, I knew this was the perfect place for me,” says Lhote. “At Chandon, from intern to assistant winemaker to the head of winemaking, I have been given immense opportunity and freedom to create sparkling wine in a way that I never would have been able to do back home,” she says. There have obviously been many influences at play beyond the success of these ladies in Champagne,
“The world of Champagne has been inclusive of women for centuries,” says Henriquez. “Julie Cavil, our Winemaking Director at Krug, has been with the House for 13 years. I have been CEO for 10. In 2019, for the first time, two women chefs participated in our Single Ingredient trip with Krug x Pepper and if you were to ask them, they would say they are ‘chefs’ not ‘female chefs.’” Therefore, her advice to young women entering the business would be to do what you love and be great at it. People will notice your ability. “Trust your intuition and remember that women naturally have many skills to succeed, particularly in Champagne. Generosity, passion and love: all characteristics easy to find in women.”
ADVANCED MIXOLOGY
DRINK IN HISTORY
Corpse Reviver Because there can be never too many sequels of a classic. By Lanee Lee
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he Corpse Reviver cocktail is like the movie Star Wars. They both have endless sequels; none are quite alike; and they both build on the original “recipe” while weaving in new and distinctive characters. In fact, the Corpse Reviver is actually a unique subset cocktail category. It uses the exact same name, but different numbers to designate alternative ingredients. Prescribed as a hair of the dog remedy in the 1800s, it was the granddaddy of our modernday breakfast and brunch cocktails. The first Corpse Reviver appeared in the 1871 book, Gentlemen’s Table Guide and was served in a wine glass and made of brandy, Maraschino liqueur and Boker’s bitters. Another early print iteration swapped the liqueur for vermouth and nixed the bitters. The cocktail really went mainstream (and the reason why it’s still moonlighting on menus today) when bartender Harry Craddock included two versions in his 1930 Savoy Cocktail Book. In it, he says the first version should be “taken before 11 a.m. or whenever steam and energy is needed,” and for the second riff, he recommends that four in swift succession will revive the corpse again. Indeed, Craddock was a comedian. Craddock’s Corpse Reviver #2 recipe, made with lemon juice, Kina Lillet, Cointreau, a dash of absinthe, and gin cannot be replicated today, sadly. Kina Lillet, a French aperitif made from white wine and flavored
with the bark of the kina-kina (or cinchona tree), went extinct in the mid-80s. However, modernday Lillet is a decent substitute. Adding to the series, R. De Fleury published a Corpse Reviver #3 recipe in the 1934 book, 1700 Cocktails for the Man Behind the Bar. Under the ‘pick-meup’ category, Corpse Reviver #3 layers brandy, Maraschino, and Curacao—sans ice. And W.J. Tarling decided to one-up them all. In his 1937 drink tome, Cafe Royal Cocktail Book, Tarling included four different revivers. The best of the bunch includes brandy, orange juice, lemon juice, and a champagne topper. Another bubbly version of the dead man walking drink enters mid-century. A wonderful riff on the sticky sweet concoction is found in The Official Mixers Manual, written by Patrick Duffy in 1956. In a highball glass, Pernod, lemon juice and sparkling wine are poured over cubed ice—a true pick-me-up after a raucous night. So, it’s clear from history, a Corpse Reviver is whatever you deem refreshing and restorative after a long night. After you try the original recipe, listed below, feel free to create your own Corpse Reviver. Call it the Rise of the Corpse, the Last Reviver or simply, CR VII. Because, you can’t have enough iterations of a cult classic. May the breakfast cocktail force be with you.
Corpse Reviver INGREDIENTS
2 parts cognac 1 part apple brandy 1 part sweet vermouth PREPARATION
Pour ingredients into a shaker with ice; shake until cold. Pour into a coupe glass. (For Trader Vic’s Corpse Reviver cocktail garnish with a lemon twist).
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CRAFTING COCKTAILS
Delicious Mix Up GET TO KNOW THE NEGRONI SBAGLIATO
By Colleen Thompson | Photos courtesy of Gruppo Campari
The vintage cocktail, named after a count, the Negroni, has emerged as the cocktail of the moment. More than the sum of its parts—a fastidious, equal measure of Campari, sweet vermouth, gin, and served with an orange twist. A classic that need not be messed with. Unless, of course, by accident, you create an equally good classic cocktail. The Negroni Sbagliato was born in 1972 when Mirko Stocchetto at Bar Basso in Milan accidentally added sparkling wine instead of gin into a patron’s Negroni. Named after the Italian word for mistaken (“sbagliato”), Mirko’s mistake became —the Negroni Sbagliato. Traditionally a Negroni can be built over ice, and the Sbagliato is no different: served over ice in a rocks glass. When creating the Negroni Sbagliato, it’s important to choose a sparkling wine that balances well with the bitter notes that come
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from the Campari and vermouth. Cinzano Prosecco offers crisp, fruit-forward notes of apple and pear that pair well with a Negroni Sbagliato. “A Negroni Sbagliato represents many wonderful elements that go into the magic of the holiday season,” says Diana Novak, National Director of Spirits Education for Palm Bay International. “A Negroni is traditionally consumed as an aperitivo, particularly in Italian culture, and the Negroni Sbagliato is special during the holidays because it incorporates bubbly.” With a 250-year-old tradition, Cinzano Sparkling Wines began to develop wines that emulated the flavor and structure of champagne in the mid-19th century. “From Cinzano Asti D.O.C.G to Cinzano Prosecco D.O.C., these sparkling wines offer classic, quality Italian
styles with a premium look that won’t break the bank,” says Novak. The brand’s aperitif classics include an extremely versatile range of vermouths that were created by brothers Giovanni and Carlo Cinzano, two master distillers, who, in 1757, started a new trend with their unique aromatic wines. Since then, Casa Cinzano creates vermouth made from a secret recipe combining local herbs, spices, and wines from Torino, Italy. Cinzano Vermouth is smooth with a surprisingly brief initial sweetness, with notes of vanilla, red fruits like black cherry, and caramel, opening to spices and bitterness with an Artemisia finish. Novak offers her best tip for mixing memorable celebratory cocktails this season: batch mixing the cocktails ahead of time. “Consider serving the batched cocktails self-serve style in a watercooler, punch bowl, or
infusion jar, which also adds a nice decorative touch—this will allow you to enjoy the party instead of playing bartender throughout the celebration.” The Negroni Sbagliato is an excellent aperitivo that pairs well with a variety of antipasti spreads. In particular, it pairs nicely with hearty, fatty foods. “I would recommend a bold charcuterie plate with vibrant cheeses and cured meats,” adds Novak. “Baconwrapped dates or crostini add a dash of saltiness, combined with the fat will accompany the cocktail quite well. They say bacon goes well with everything, and in this case, it definitely does. You could even pair the drink with a wellseasoned steak.” For more information, visit cinzano.com and @ExploreYourPour
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MUST MIX
Negroni Sbagliato INGREDIENTS
¾ oz. Cinzano Vermouth Rosso ¾ oz. Campari ¾ oz. Cinzano Prosecco Orange slice (for garnish) PREPARATION
Prepare directly in a rocks glass over ice. Garnish with a slice of orange.
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ADVANCED MIXOLOGY
BARTENDER'S CHOICE
The Secret to Raising the Bar
is Actually Found Behind the Bar By Mathew Powers
TODAY IT IS THE MARKER OF A QUALITY COCKTAIL WHEN A RECIPE CALLS FOR A COUPLE DASHES OF ANGOSTURA AROMATIC BITTERS, WHICH IS WHY IT’S SURPRISING THAT THE BRAND, FOUNDED ALMOST 200 YEARS AGO, INITIALLY HAD NOTHING TO DO WITH BEVERAGES.
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he story of Angostura bitters began with Dr. Johann Gottlieb Benjamin Siegert, whose parents emigrated from Germany to Angostura, Venezuela. In 1820, Siegert, at the age of 24, rose to the rank of Surgeon General of the armies of Simón Bolívar—a Venezuelan military leader who was instrumental in revolutions against the Spanish empire By 1824, Siegert had developed an effective elixir called Amargo Aromatico, which soldiers used to alleviate stomach ailments. Navy soldiers’ travels from port to port helped spread Dr. Siegert’s favored remedy, and it quickly grew in popularity. Dr. Siegert capitalized on the instant success of his medicinal bitters, exporting them to Trinidad and England in 1830, and then to the Caribbean and the United States by 1850. In the 1870s, Dr. Siegert’s son, Don Carlos, demonstrated that Angostura aromatic bitters also served as an excellent ingredient to provide complexity and balance in cocktails, further proven by
its inclusion in the ever-popular Manhattan cocktail created in 1874. As a result, sales of the bitters took off, leading Dr. Siegert and his three sons to establish J.G.B Siegert & Sons in the port city, Port of Spain, on the island of Trinidad the following year. Many years later, when the tiki and rum craze emerged after Prohibition—and after the U.S. opened trade with Latin America— Trader Vic developed the Mai Tai, which also included Angostura aromatic bitters. Angostura is no stranger to rum either, as the brand has been producing fine rums for more than 130 years. Angostura's international rums have won more than 120 global awards in the last decade. In 2007, Angostura orange bitters, a mixture of citrus oils from tropical oranges and spices, was launched worldwide, as the brand’s first bitters flavor innovation in almost 200 years. In celebration of the company’s 190th anniversary in 2014, Amaro di Angostura—a liqueur offering aromas of cinnamon, dark chocolate, and Angostura aromatic bitters—launched, adding to its portfolio of bitters products.
All said, the flagship Angostura aromatic bitters are the brand’s most famous product, maintaining relevance in the cocktail world due to its perfected flavor and versatility. “Angostura bitters changes everything. It adds depth and flavor to cocktails, brings out hidden flavors and it tends to turn down acidity,” said The House of Angostura Chief Mixologist Raymond Edwards. The iconic blend of herbs, spices, roots, and botanicals is still made with the same secret recipe originally developed in 1824. Which, according to the brand, is “such a closely-guarded secret that there are only five people in the world who know the complete recipe.” Even as trends in cocktail culture change over the years, Angostura bitters remains the most essential bar ingredient because of its transformative role in classic and contemporary cocktails. The famous bitters can be found in a range of drinks, from modern beverages to timeless classics such as the Manhattan, Old Fashioned, Pink Gin and Mai Tai.
TRINIDAD SOUR INGREDIENTS
3 oz. ANGOSTURA aromatic bitters 2 oz. orgeat 1 ½ oz. fresh lemon juice 1 oz. rye whiskey PREPARATION
Combine ingredients in a shaker and fill with ice. Shake well to chill. Strain into a chilled coupe glass.
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R
TRENDING NOW
ye whiskey has enjoyed a long history as a rich liquor packed with complex flavor profiles. In the now golden age of craft distilling, a new level of rye is achieved by innovative spirit makers.
the United States was a whiskey country. Everything was whiskey, and rye whiskey was gigantic at that point. I think again there’s that generational switch with a rise in brown spirits that’s good for the next twenty-years, or so.”
This innovation has led to an astounding period of growth for the rye industry. The Distilled Spirits Council reported a 778% growth in production over the past ten years. “Look back at the trends in liquor,” says Dancing Goat Distillery Chairman, Tom Maas. “From prohibition to the 60s,
When speaking about the boom in rye sales over the past decade, Tom Maas explains: The subtle tones of spice and drier taste of rye whiskey provides a unique foundation for creative bartenders to mix up their menus. The best part about rye is the potential for unique blends that open up to different styles,
Rye WHISKEY By Joseph Luparello
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which made rye so popular in the pre-prohibition era. “It’s amazing to see so many new whiskey drinkers, like Millennials, walking around with whiskey neat in a glass and appreciating the flavors of whiskey.” A current trend for bartenders as well as distillers is to join traditional methods with new ingredients. “It’s actually like the perfect storm for mixologists who are looking for unique items to work with,” explains Maas. “They have all these great craft, differentiated products coming out so they can recreate the classics or concoct new cocktails.” According to Nick Maas, Tom’s son and vice president of distilling and innovation for Dancing Goat Distillery, the makers of Limousin Rye, “A big thing for bartenders, I think, is flavor. As far as mixing with whiskey, rye is a much better complement to the fruit choice in a classic like the Old Fashioned. It just works better with the orange citrus than a bourbon does.” Nick, a third-generation distiller with extensive bartending experience, kept structuring cocktails in mind when creating Limousin Rye. “We have a slightly fruity nose to our rye. By using different types of wood (for us specifically three: American white oak and two types of French oak), we’re able to add that little bit of warmth in the sip and also a lot of texture. We provide a good body, which is a great base for making cocktails.” The critics agree, having received five 90-plus ratings and being named one of Wine Enthusiast Top 100 Spirits in 2018. The father and son duo talk a lot about the differentiation of rye because they want bartenders to know what they are mixing in the glass and that not all ryes are created equal. “Limousin has a high corn mash bill and is very balanced for a rye. We relate to multiple whiskey drinkers on multiple points, including the bourbon, malt, and Scotch fans. We also do well with rye drinkers because we are a rye. We’re just not the same kind of rye.”
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ADVANCED MIXOLOGY
THAT’S THE SPIRIT
By Richard Thomas
ALTHOUGH THE HISTORICAL ACCOUNTS VARY ON HOW ELIJAH CRAIG (A MINISTER AND ENTREPRENEUR IN FRONTIER KENTUCKY) BECAME CREDITED AS THE PIONEER OF CHARRING OAK BARRELS, JUST ABOUT EVERYONE AGREES THAT THE WHISKEY NAMED FOR HIM IS ONE OF THE CLASSICS OF MODERN BOURBON. Introduced in the mid-1980s, when premium bourbon was in its infancy, the brand has naturally changed with the times. Elijah Craig expressions now include both a Small Batch and a 12-year-old Barrel proof Bourbon, as well as ultra-aged Single Barrels. Yet the mature, spicy character of the original Elijah Craig continues to head the line. As a modern whiskey classic, it only follows that some of the many versions of Elijah Craig serve well as a
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foundation for the most classic of American cocktails, the Old Fashioned, and that is something Lynn House understands. Before becoming the National Brand Educator for Heaven Hill, House served as the head mixologist for some of the top dining establishments in Chicago. The depth of her hospitality experience gives her a solid grasp on how to bring out the best in Elijah Craig’s many expressions, and in particular, how to use that bourbon to make the Old Fashioned into something more than just a standby.
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ADVANCED MIXOLOGY
THAT’S THE SPIRIT
Lynn House
TELL US ABOUT ELIJAH CRAIG AND THE OLD FASHIONED COCKTAIL. The Old Fashioned is the quintessential American cocktail. Whiskey, a touch of sweet, a touch of bitters, a touch of water, and it evolves beautifully over the course of time. We are challenging bartenders around the country to share with us, and the world, their twists on this classic cocktail and we will be showcasing our favorite riffs. There are so many talented and creative people in the industry. It creates an opportunity for people to have fun, be creative, and for Heaven Hill Distillery to celebrate them. WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR BEST TIPS AND TRICKS FOR MIXING WHISKEY IN A COCKTAIL? Keep it simple; keep it clean— however don’t be afraid to go outside the perimeter of what one typically would mix with whiskey. I like to use seasonal ingredients, strawberries in the spring, peaches in the summer, apples and
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“KEEP IT SIMPLE; KEEP IT CLEAN— HOWEVER DON’T BE AFRAID TO GO OUTSIDE THE PERIMETER OF WHAT ONE TYPICALLY WOULD MIX WITH WHISKEY.” pumpkin in the fall. Avoid using too much sugar when mixing with whiskey; it will make your cocktail muddy. Always use a dash of some sort of bitters—they are the salt and pepper of a cocktail and help to wake up and meld ingredients together. If your cocktail is spirits only, stir do not shake. Shaking will bruise the whiskey and over dilute your cocktail. WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR BEST TIPS AND TRICKS FOR CONCOCTING A RIFF ON A CLASSIC LIKE THE OLD FASHIONED? Stick with the formula. This classic cocktail has stood the test of time because it works. So keep in mind that classic recipe—spirits, sugar,
bitters, and water. Often times I like to swap out the classic bitters and use a chocolate or mole bitter. These flavors enhance the spiciness of the whiskey base. Experiment with homemade tinctures. Have fun with sugars. One of my goto sweeteners is an apple cider reduction. Particularly as we leave fall, this makes for a wonderful autumnal riff on the classic. Do not get over complicated with the number of ingredients. Keep it simple; you want a maximum of four ingredients. Play up the char from the barrel—one of my favorite Old Fashioned riffs was created by a bartender who gently smoked the rocks glass with a cinnamon stick—I still think about that cocktail.
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SHAKING AND STIRRING
HORSE SOLDIER SIGNATURE BOURBON Produced in America with American labor only, Horse Soldier celebrates the Green Beret teams that infiltrated Afghanistan on horseback just days after 9/11. The method of transport earned the soldiers the moniker of “Horse Soldiers.” To add even more resonance to this bottling, the bourbon is distilled by the same heroic men who risked their lives to protect America.
HSB MANHATTAN INGREDIENTS
2 oz. Horse Soldier Straight Bourbon 1 oz. sweet vermouth 2-3 dashes Aromatic Bitters PREPARATION
Place all ingredients in a mixing glass filled with ice. Stir until well chilled. Strain into a coupe. Garnish with Maraschino cherry and orange peel.
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LAUNCHES
TOD & VIXEN’S DRY GIN Famed bartenders Gaz Regan, Leo Robitschek, and Jeffrey Morgenthaler worked with British Master Distiller Roslyn Thompson to create gin intended to shine in cocktails. In an intriguing turn of events, former global investment expert turned distillery owner Eral Gokgol-Kline discovered that his great grandfather had opened a distillery in New York in 1651. Hence the gin’s eponymous numerically enhanced name. The botanicals include traditional gin ingredients but add makrut lime leaves and rooibos tea.
TOD & VIXEN’S NEGRONI INGREDIENTS
1 oz. Tod & Vixen’s Dry Gin 1 oz. sweet vermouth 1 oz. Campari PREPARATION
Add all ingredients to a mixing glass filled with ice. Mix until well chilled. Serve over ice in a rocks glass. Garnish with orange slice.
RON BARCELO GRAN AÑEJO DARK SERIES Barcelo uses 100% Dominican sugar cane for its rums, which age rapidly due to the hot, humid island climate. Aging is completed primarily in aged American bourbon barrels, which the company scrapes and re-chars between uses to keep flavor quality consistent. This blend of rums features spirit aged at least six years. The opening palate introduces dried fruit, butterscotch, and grass leading into earthy flavors, and ending with a bit of that familiar rum “funk.”
PAPAYA PA YA INGREDIENTS
2 oz. Ron Barceló Gran Añejo Dark Series 1 slice papaya 1 oz. lemon juice ¾ oz. Allspice-infusion sugar* PREPARATION
Muddle papaya slice in a mixing glass. Add rum, lemon juice, and infusion sugar. Shake well with ice. Garnish with a mint spring. *Allspice-infusion sugar: cook simple syrup with all spice blend.
OLD FITZGERALD BOTTLED-INBOND WHISKEY SPRING 2019 EDITION As with other editions, this Old Fitzgerald bottling is available on an allocated basis. To be labeled “Bottledin-Bond,” the whiskey must meet specific requirements: the product of a single distillery from a single distilling season, a minimum four years aging, an ABV of 50%, aka 100 proof. The spirit was sourced from barrels produced in September of 2005 and bottled in February of 2015. The “tax strip,” a signature element of bottledin-bond whiskey, denotes the date of production and bottling.
NEAT OR ON THE ROCKS INGREDIENTS
2 oz. Old Fitzgerald Bottled-in-Bond Whiskey Ice (optional)
PENELOPE BOURBON Sourcing superb bourbons as the base of this blend, Penelope Bourbon is a four grain straight bourbon whiskey. This bourbon is blended from three bourbon mash bills sourced from MGP Ingredients, Inc. The four grains include corn, wheat, rye, and malted barley, resulting in a gentle flavor that is ideal for both sipping and mixing in cocktails.
THE NELLIE INGREDIENTS
1 ½ oz. Penelope Bourbon 4 oz. lemonade 1 muddled strawberry PREPARATION
In a shaker, muddle strawberry gently and add Penelope Bourbon and lemonade. Add ice. Shake and pour.
KNAPPOGUE CASTLE IRISH WHISKEY MARSALA CASK As part of the brand’s new limited edition Cask Finish Series, Knappogue Castle matures this whiskey in bourbon barrels for a minimum of 12 years. The spirit is then finished in Marco De Bartoli Marsala casks from Sicily. A nose of dried fruit, vanilla, and mocha is followed by a light, fruity palate that finishes with fruit and dry oak.
NEAT OR ON THE ROCKS INGREDIENTS
2 oz. Knappogue Castle Irish Whiskey Marsala Cask Ice (optional) PREPARATION
Combine ingredients in a rocks glass.
PREPARATION
Combine ingredients in a rocks glass.
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Here’s to strong women. May we know them, remember them, raise them, and strive to become one of them. Last year’s #MeToo movement certainly shined a spotlight on the enduring plight of women. In the aftermath, what has changed for today’s businesswomen, particularly those in the service industry? What’s female empowerment, and how do we spread girl power everywhere? We asked. They answered. In this issue’s special influencers section, an elite group of pioneering women offer up some great anecdotes and advice.
We profile leading ladies in the spirits industry— bartenders, bar owners, brand owners and ambassadors, distillers, and more. We also celebrate the women who go above and beyond to support their sisters. An exploration into the world of whiskey complements our coverage with a look at American whiskey, global whiskey, and the latest in innovative aging techniques. Finally, our cover gal, Sarah Jessica Parker, is the embodiment of Coco Chanel’s words, “Keep your heels, head, and standards high.” With her new Sauvignon Blanc winning awards and gaining recognition, she proves again that she has great taste … in clothes as well as in wine.
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Wine Sarah Jessica Style! F By Michael Tulipan Photos Courtesy of Invivo & Co.
INVIVO X, SJP
Few celebrities achieve the level of style icon that Sarah Jessica Parker has enjoyed for decades and even less balance this celebrity with business acumen. Newly launched wine brand Invivo X, SJP is the latest venture from this acclaimed producer, actress, and entrepreneur, created together with award-winning New Zealand wine producer Invivo.
Invivo co-founder Tim Lightbourne says this is a true partnership with Parker and not about putting a famous name on the label. “We wanted her to be involved in as many stages of production as possible,” he says. “From creating the brand, the design of the label through to choosing the final blend.” After being introduced to Lightbourne and winemaker and co-founder Rob Cameron, Parker threw herself into the process. She began tasting Sauvignon Blancs with the two winemakers and discussing the characteristics she enjoyed in the wines. The partners returned to New Zealand for the harvest, focusing on wines that offered the attributes that she enjoyed the most. Parker wanted to make a more powerful, ageworthy wine, so Cameron added a structural element to the blend, focusing on The Westhaven
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Marlborough vineyard. After the harvest, a portion of fruit was kept in contact with skins to extract tannins, also working with un-toasted oak on some of the wines, which were vigorously stirred with the lees for three months. The blend for Invivo X, SJP was finalized at a second tasting session in New York City. The trio tasted five different wines as Parker analyzed the flavor components of each, finally arriving on a blend that is approachable but also can age. “It’s a unique style. It’s quite different from our Sauvignon, which is great. It’s Sarah Jessica’s style!” The resulting wine offers some signature
Sauvignon Blanc attributes with notes of tropical fruit, low acidity, and an expansive mid-palate. With air, it starts to reveal itself to be more complex with layers of flavor. Founded in 2008 by Lightbourne and Cameron, the brand Invivo quickly grew to presence in sixteen countries with its wines garnering more than 200 medals in various competitions. The company is no stranger to celebrity partnerships, as it produces a wine and a gin for British comedian and talk show host Graham Norton. The partners approached Parker with an offer to collaborate, and she jumped at the chance to be closely involved in the
creative process, as she is with her other businesses. The wine’s name refers to her signature email and Instagram post signoff: “X, SJ” Projected to sell 350,000 bottles in the first year, Invivo X, SJP was allocated entirely after a month and is now available in retail shops around the country along with the U.K. and Japan. The wine has also started racking up accolades, including a Double Gold at the 2019 China Wine & Spirit Awards. Next year, SJP fans will be able to enjoy a rosé made from grapes harvested this year in the South of France. This innovative new partnership promises to bear fruit for years to come.
Tim Lightbourne, Invivo co-founder and director; Sarah Jessica Parker; and Rob Cameron, Invivo co-founder and winemaker.
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The Magic of Liqueurs Sticking Without Being Sticky
By Colleen Thompson
“Liqueurs are an enormous category—the fourth-largest spirits category by volume in America,” says co-founder of familyowned Copper & Kings American Brandy Company, Joe Heron. “This is the gorilla sitting quietly in the corner of the room. The gorilla is waking up and stretching.” Heron believes the liqueurs category is changing mainly due to becoming more artisanal and more crafted, with creative flavors and ingredients moving past massproduced and cloyingly sweet cordials. Mostly its because, the category has the attention, excitement, and evangelism of great bartenders and some of the most adventurous drinkers. According to Heron, the category has been moribund, but now there’s more global innovation building upon ingredients with crafted credentials using small batch production. Complexity, versatility, and imagination are more marketable at the high-end than cheap and syrupy. Destillaré liqueurs differentiate themselves as standard 90-proof spirits, based on a double distilled, pure copper pot-distilled brandy based, non-chill filtered and sweetened with pure honey, not sugar. Lightly viscous not sticky, sweet but not
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syrupy, intensely flavored and aromatic with the ability to work as either an adjunct or the leading actor base spirit.
intensity, especially the higher-proofs. Liqueurs also add depth and complexity to spritzes, or simply as spritzes themselves.
“Bartenders are our focus,” says Heron. “They make magic in a glass and have thirsty imaginations. There are no limitations to magic. Bartenders are more
“Destillaré’s mission is to provide bartenders with the tools to build the most inventive cocktails that they possibly can,” says Heron.
We focus on providing bartenders with tools to make exceptional libations, designed to be powerful enough to act as both a base spirit and an intense cocktail adjunct.
—Joe Heron, Copper & Kings American Brandy Company co-founder
inventive, inspired, and demanding than ever before. They’re looking for ways they can excite their guests and build cocktails that flex their creative muscles. We focus on providing bartenders with tools to make exceptional libations, designed to be powerful enough to act as both a base spirit and an intense cocktail adjunct.” With bartenders in mind, Copper & Kings recently released two pure copper potdistilled liqueurs: Destillaré Café, an intense coffee liqueur built with a robust cold-brew natural coffee foundation, and Destillaré Chocolat, an intense chocolate liqueur using cocoa nibs steeped in brandy. They join an expanding Destillaré line-up that already includes Orange Curaçao and Pomegranate liqueurs. “Gastronomically, we live in the most inventive food and beverage age ever. This in tandem with the resurrection of modern classic cocktails like the Espresso Martini, the White Russian, and the Cosmopolitan, now executed with flair and excellence in terms of quality, has expanded the cocktail horizon dramatically, opening the door for spirits that enable this creative palate,” explains Heron. “Also, the highend gin boom resulted in an elevated interest in botanicals and ingredients in general. The new cordials and liqueurs era also flies on those wings. These spirits have been cocktail glue for decades. It’s what they are designed to do but, their versatility allows them to increasingly be served as a base spirit, used for flavor
DESTILLARÉ CORDIALS. ALEMBIC POTATIONS FOR ALCHEMISTS AND MAGICIANS. CAFÉ A very balanced, very smooth, highly aromatic coffee liqueur with powerful barista aromatics. Smooth viscosity without being syrupy and sticky. Arabica cold brew coffee is married to aged brandy in the barrel, together with extra Madagascan vanilla beans, cardamom pods, and additional coffee beans added and matured for 6 to 9 months. The spirit is then diluted to proof using cold brew coffee instead of water. CHOCOLAT Using a similar process to Café with Caribbean cocoa nibs added to aged brandy in the barrel and matured for 6 to 9 months, and then diluted with a custom steeping of cocoa nibs in reverse osmosis filtered water. ORANGE CURAÇAO Classic, dry orange curaçao with an apple brandy base, warm orange tonality, and an archetypal dry orange mouthfeel typical of bitter orange peels. Perfect in Sidecars or over rocks.
POMEGRANATE Bright, vivid, red fruit cordial has earthy, authentic pomegranate aromatics with strawberry and blackberry notes. Added in the vapor basket are sweet orange peels and lavender with a final flash maceration of additional botanicals for color and aroma. Try the Rosalita Margarita riff with Destillaré spicy Margarita salt.
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the essence of
American
Whiskey By Richard Thomas
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O
One of the things that characterizes the spirit of American whiskey is how varied it is compared to its cousins around the world, most of which follow the Scottish model of whisky-making and, therefore, produce just two basic types: malt and grain. While most of the whiskey made in America is bourbon, this is just one of four principal categories—bourbon, malt, rye and wheat—not to mention a handful of minor classifications. Thanks to whiskey’s resurgent popularity and the explosive growth of craft distilling, the declining or moribund categories have enjoyed a renaissance, even as bourbon is booming to new heights.
have one. The second is aging in charred, new oak barrels. American whiskey derives almost all of its color and, depending on the distillery, between 40% and 80% of its flavor from the barrel, which gives most American whiskeys their characteristically sweet, vanilla-enhanced flavor profile.
BOURBON
Bourbon, the exemplar of the four major categories, is made mostly from corn, offering a foundation of sweetness to the vanilla and caramel flavors drawn from the barrel. The typical mash bill (grain recipe), such as used in Evan
Williams, is 65% to 75% corn, with about 20% rye for a little balancing spiciness and a small amount of barley. Bourbons like Maker’s Mark go a different route, using wheat in place of rye, because wheat produces a softer and more floral flavor profile. Nowadays, distillers are breaking out of these traditional models and one new twist is to use exotic grains, such as Widow Jane’s choice of red Bloody Butcher corn in place of the usual yellow corn for its bourbon or KOVAL’s use of 51% yellow corn and 49% millet in its bourbon.
Two features define the essence of American whiskey, although neither is universal (if there was a third feature, it would be to note the exceptions). First, while all whiskeys are fermented from grain, in the U.S. the traditional pattern is to use three grains: a lead grain, a flavoring grain, and malted barley (the latter to aid in the breakdown of grain starch into sugar for fermentation). The lead grain is the important part since all the major categories of American whiskey
WIDOW JANE
MAKER’S MARK
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IRON SMOKE DISTILLERY
The bourbon boom has brought literally hundreds of new distilleries, most of them small, craft outfits, but some falling somewhere between craft and big Kentucky and Tennessee distilleries. Some are even following the well-tested path of Old Elk Distillery. Old Elk hired veteran master distiller Greg Metze, formerly of MGP Distillery (the man who made much of the sourced rye whiskey on the market today), to help it develop blended bourbon, and to consult on building its Colorado distillery. Most new, small distillers attempt to stand out as to not compete directly with Kentucky bourbon. They do this either by going where the big distillers don’t (producing rye and especially wheat or American malt whiskeys), or by putting a tweak on the production process. Iron Smoke Distillery in upstate New York took the latter path, smoking their grains with applewood prior to mashing and fermenting and thus creating their Iron Smoke Applewood Smoked Bourbon.
WHEAT WHISKEY
By taking wheat as its lead grain, wheat whiskey takes the soft, floral notes added to wheated bourbon and pushes them to the forefront. Heaven Hill introduced the first
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modern wheat whiskey, Bernheim Original, in 2005, and used the Bernheim stock in 2014 to release the oldest whiskey to date in the class, the 13 year-old Parker’s Heritage of 2014. On the value of wheat in whiskey, Heaven Hill Master Distiller Conor O’Driscoll says, “Generally speaking, the more wheat there is in the whiskey, the milder and more gentle its character. When we make our Bernheim Wheat Whiskey, we increase the wheat to 51% of the mash bill resulting in a mild-flavored and very smooth whiskey.“ Wheat whiskey remains the smallest of American whiskey’s four major categories, despite several craft distillers introducing
wheat whiskeys of their own. It wasn’t until 2019, some 14 years after Bernheim came out, that Woodford Reserve added a wheat whiskey to their regular range and became only the second major distiller to do so.
RYE WHISKEY
Once a peer of bourbon, rye whiskey went into steep decline after Prohibition and the Second World War, but is enjoying a modern comeback, driven in large part by the interest mixologists have taken in classic, pre-Prohibition cocktails. The brands that survived rye’s nadir came to be made in Kentucky, and thus became “Kentucky Ryes,” made using just the bare minimum of rye content in the mash bill, 51% to 53%. Kentucky’s rye whiskeys are close cousins of Kentucky bourbon. Nowadays, distillers outside of Kentucky will play with different mash bill proportions coupled with innovative aging techniques producing differentiated ryes. For instance, Limousin Rye from Wisconsin is made with 51% rye and 44% corn, resulting in balanced rye that appeals to both bourbon and rye whiskey fans.
With American whiskey’s popularity headed for new heights, both the big distillers and their small, crafty counterparts are reinventing classics and concocting
novel spirits.
Traditional rye whiskeys made in places like New York, Maryland, and especially Pennsylvania, have much higher rye contents, making for a spicier, more robust whiskey. FEW Spirits makes just such a whiskey from 70% rye, 20% corn, and 10% malted barley, basically swapping the roles that corn and rye play in traditional bourbon.
THE EXCEPTIONS
Beyond the four clear-cut, major categories of American whiskey are all the exceptions, most often a result of not having a lead grain, having too much of a lead grain, or aging is used instead of new oak barrels. Two of Michter’s core expressions are just as unusual, their Sour Mash Whiskey and their American Whiskey.
America’s craft distillers have taken whiskey’s lesser categories and turned them into a playground, infusing them with an innovative spirit. The first whiskey released by Balcones, some 10 years ago, was a corn whiskey. This category requires the use of 80% or more corn and aging in used barrels; Balcones chose to use 100% Hopi blue corn, creating their Baby Blue.
The Sour Mash, “does not conform to the rules of bourbon or rye because of the grain percentages used in its production,” says Michter’s Master of Maturation
“The blue corn we use has a nuttier flavor than traditional yellow dent corn,” says Balcones Master Distiller Jared Himstedt. “We also roast the blue corn, so there are
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AMERICAN MALT WHISKEY
American malt whiskey is the fourth major category, one that is dominated by the work of small and mid-sized distillers, such as Balcones with their seminal Texas Single Malt. Woodford Reserve is the only large distiller with American malt in regular release, and that didn’t come out until 2019 (this made it the only distillery with all four major categories in regular release under its brand). There is a key difference between how Woodford Reserve makes its malt whiskey versus most of the smaller distillers. Under Federal law American malt need only have 51% or more malted barley in its mash bill to qualify, and Woodford Reserve follows the Kentucky style of sticking close to the bare minimum, so its American Malt has a lot of corn and is in close relation to its bourbon. Balcones and other small and mid-sized distillers chose to produce 100% malt whiskeys, similar to malt whiskies of Scotland, Ireland, and Japan, creating a subcategory, the American single malt.
Andrea Wilson, “but still uses significant amounts of corn and rye finishing with malted barley to make the product.” The whiskey, once the most popular made at the original Michter’s distillery in Pennsylvania, is not as corn-sweetened as bourbon or as spiced-up as a rye, but possesses an ample helping of both characters. Michter’s American Whiskey, on the other hand, would be bourbon were it not aged in used, rather than new, oak barrels. This means less of the vanilla-caramel character, so more of the inherent qualities of the whiskey shine through.
toasty notes, sometimes enough to hint and chocolate or char.” American whiskey has always been characterized by the many flavors made possible by the fact that, unlike those distillers pursuing the Scottish model, it has never relied on just malted barley as its mainstay. At the same time, the widespread use of charred, new oak barrels give the four major categories some aspects in common. With American whiskey’s popularity headed for new heights, both the big distillers and their small, crafty counterparts are reinventing classics and concocting novel spirits. CHILLEDMAGAZINE.COM
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Whiskey Around the Globe By Richard Thomas
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American whiskeys aren’t alone in enjoying the boom; whiskey industries around the world are also enjoying a resurgence, but none more so than Ireland. As recently as 2010, there were just four working whiskey distilleries on the Emerald Isle; today there are over two-dozen.
IRISH WHISKEY
A first new crop distillery opened for one of the country’s most venerable and well-established brands, Tullamore Dew. Previously made by the same company as Jameson in Cork County, new ownership took the brand back to its hometown of Tullamore, right in the middle of Ireland. Their range includes the 14- and 18-yearold Single Malts, each aged in ex-bourbon barrels before being finished in Oloroso sherry, port, and Madeira casks.
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Stephanie MacLeod, Master Blender
for Dewar's
Whiskey distilling returned to Dublin in 2015 when Teeling Whiskey Company opened its doors, marking the first new distillery in the city in 125 years. Like many American craft distillers, Teeling got started with sourced whiskey, like their flagship Small Batch and limited edition, ultra-aged releases. Last year the brand released its first batch of inhouse Single Pot Still Whiskey, just three years old but gaining in age with each successive batch. Two Irish whiskeys with distinct personalities are The Irishman and the wonderfully named Writer’s Tears. Many Irish whiskeys are a blend of three types made in Ireland: malt whiskey, pot still whiskey, and (mostly) lighter grain whiskey; with exceptions (like Scotch) malt and grain whiskeys. The Irishman and
Writer’s Tears dispense grain whiskey, relying instead on malt and pot still, creating a richer, fuller-bodied whiskey.
JAPANESE WHISKY
The Japanese whisky industry dates back to the 1920s and has long enjoyed a reputation for high quality among cognoscenti, but in recent years its popularity has soared. Whisky fans realize just how good Japanese whiskies really are, and they are ardently sought after like high demand bourbon brands. One of the first and best-known Japanese expressions in high demand is Suntory’s Yamazaki 12-year-old Japanese Whisky. It’s the brand’s flagship classic single malt, which first brought awareness of Japanese whisky to the United States. The liquid demonstrates Japanese dedication to crafting whisky. Of the almost dozen distilleries making whisky in Japan today, Yamazaki was first. That imbalance of supply and demand for Japanese whisky has thrust other, less traditional brands into the spotlight, such as Kaiyo. This whisky is aged in handmade Japanese Mizunara oak (famed for its incense-like flavors) under their supervision. The casks are among the rarest in the world and considered the finest to mature whisky. Borrowing a page from Jefferson's Ocean and Kelt Cognac, part of that aging is done at sea.
SCOTCH WHISKY
Scotch whiskies have always been popular, with several blended whiskies dominating the global marketplace and a clutch of prestigious single malt brands. For drinkers, the challenge with Scotch is often to find something both widely available and generally approachable, rather than pricey and niche. Monkey Shoulder fits that bill perfectly, having become a go-to whisky for many Scotch lovers around the world. It’s a sweet, creamy blend of malt whiskies
SUNTORY YAMAZAKI DISTILLERY
from William Grant & Sons principal distilleries: Kininvie, The Glenfiddich, and The Balvenie. On top of presenting a solid Speyside flavor profile, its flexible blended malt is just as good neat, or on the rocks, or as serving as the foundation for a cocktail. When most people think Scotch, however, they think of a blended whisky. In America in particular, they think Dewar’s, which has been the top-selling blended Scotch whisky in America for many years. Blended whiskies draw on both malt and lighter grain whiskies in the way a painter works with pigments on his palette. It’s smooth, approachable whisky thanks in large part to putting Aberfeldy malt at the center of the blend.
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A Look at The Liberties ONE OF DUBLIN’S MOST HISTORIC WHISKEY-MAKING PLACES By Richard Thomas
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Dublin was once a whiskey city—the capital of a national industry that dominated global trade. In the mid-to-late 19th century Ireland produced 60% of the world’s whiskey and the majority of that whiskey came from Dublin. Yet history has waves, and the ebb of making whiskey in Dublin reached its lowpoint in the 1970s when Irish whiskey hit bottom and the city’s last distillery closed. In recent years, the tides have turned for Irish whiskey and the country has seen a distillery-building boom, which has brought whiskey-making back to Dublin. One of the newcomers is Dublin Liberties Distillery, appropriately named and located, since the city’s Liberties district was once, and is set
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to again become, the “Golden Triangle;” or the hub of whiskey making. Dublin Liberties Distillery has embraced the history of its neighborhood, named “The Liberties,” because in medieval times it was outside the boundaries governed by Old Dublin’s royal charter, and thus not governed by it. It was an attractive place for entrepreneurs and rascals alike. Whereas other distillery projects in the Liberties are of new construction, Dublin Liberties Distillery is in a 300-year-old building on Old Mill Street. The distillery opened in February 2019, and since Irish law mandates whiskey be aged
a minimum of three years, all of Dublin Liberties Distillery whiskeys are sourced at present. The distillery line starts with Oak Devil; five-year-old blended Irish whiskey. The next step up is Copper Alley; 10-year-old single malt finished in Oloroso sherry casks. Above these are a series of limited edition, ultra-aged whiskeys culminating in the 27-Year Old King of Hell, named after a time when the Liberties was a land of riots and dubbed “hell.” Dublin Liberties Distillery is owned by Quintessential Brands, which also owns The Dubliner line of Irish Whiskeys. Interestingly, Dublin Liberties Distillery also collaborated with New York’s Dead Rabbit bar on Dead Rabbit Irish Whiskey. The man overseeing the future transition from sourced to in-house whiskey is Darryl McNally. A veteran of Bushmills, McNally’s 16-year tenure covered so many roles, he had his hands in everything. In 2015, McNally left Bushmills to bring his wide-ranging expertise to the construction of the Belfast Distillery Company (one of Ireland’s many distilling start-ups). From there, Quintessential Brands’ founders Warren Scott and Enzo Visone hired him with an eye on a future distillery project. That led to McNally ultimately becoming master distiller at Dublin Liberties Distillery. Visitors to Dublin Liberties Distillery find a charming, 18th-century brick building on an unassuming street. The distillery is equipped with its customary triple set of copper pot stills used to make malt whiskey (like most of Ireland’s small- and mid-sized distilleries); the company will continue to source the grain whiskey used in its blends in the future. Today, the Liberties is best understood through its people and how they come together in this unique area, which remains the epicenter of historic Dublin. Located in the heart of the Liberties district, Dublin Liberties Distillery was inspired by the mavericks, the wild cards, and the pioneers of the Liberties past— with the story of the distillery rooted in the history and mythology of the area. CHILLEDMAGAZINE.COM
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Making It Right Every Time A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A WHISKEY DISTILLER By Richard Thomas
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Wherever it is made, hands-on expertise goes into making a fine whiskey. This is as true of America’s largest single-plant whiskey distillery, Heaven Hill’s Bernheim Distillery in Louisville, Kentucky, as it is of a tiny, nano-distillery. This year a new man took the wheel at Bernheim, Conor O’Driscoll, becoming Heaven Hill’s seventh master distiller. O’Driscoll’s workplace is the biggest and most productive of its kind, a massive and well-oiled machine for making whiskey. Although Jim Beam is larger overall, their production is split between two different facilities; Heaven Hill keeps everything under one roof at Bernheim, a facility they have steadily expanded since acquiring it in 1999.
This plant produces some of the most venerated names in American Whiskey: The Evan Williams, Elijah Craig, and John E. Fitzgerald Larceny bourbons, Rittenhouse Rye, prized and annual limited-edition releases such as Parker’s Heritage, and whiskeys with devoted cult followings among enthusiasts, like the Fighting Cock and Heaven Hill Bottled in Bond bourbons. Overhauling Bernheim is not what O’Driscoll was hired to do. The distillery has been producing five whiskey mash bills that ultimately have become Heaven Hill’s brands (traditional rye bourbon, wheated bourbon, wheat whiskey, corn whiskey, and rye whiskey) for 20 years, so production is efficient and well established. When I met O’Driscoll this past spring, he spoke more about mastering what they were doing at Bernheim than changing it; a few tweaks here and there might be possible, but when the business is making vast quantities of whiskey and constantly achieving consistent flavor profiles for a wide range of brands, radical revision is just not called for. A not-often-spoken part of a master distiller’s job is becoming familiar with the company’s inventory, which for O’Driscoll is no easy task. Heaven Hill owns the second-largest stock of aging bourbon in Kentucky, with over 1.6 million barrels in 58 warehouses scattered around Kentucky. How whiskey ages can vary with the design of the warehouse
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Conor O’Driscoll and even what floor of the warehouse a barrel rests on. Understanding how these factors play out is crucial in turning anonymous barrels of whiskey into Elijah Craig or Pikesville Rye. Although the characteristics of Heaven Hill’s warehouses are already known on paper, a personal and intimate knowledge of just what is in all those warehouses is necessary not only to create new whiskeys, but also to craft consistent, quality batches of the existing brands. O’Driscoll came well equipped to grapple with these challenges of scale and consistency; he may be new to Heaven
Hill, but he is hardly new to American Whiskey. Some 15 years ago, he was hired as operations manager for BrownForman’s distillery in Shively (a suburb of Louisville). After five years, he left Shively to oversee Woodford Reserve, and to those duties he later added oversight of a warehouse expansion program that Brown-Forman undertook in Woodford County. In 2017, O’Driscoll left Brown-Forman to go work at the new Angel’s Envy Distillery in downtown Louisville. Now, he’s at Heaven Hill applying that resume as the successor to Denny Potter.
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One For The Ages Get To Know Solera-Aged Whiskey By Richard Thomas Outside of the ranks of the hardcore wine geeks who could get cast in an installment of the SOMM documentaries, few are familiar with the intricacies of the solera. Usually associated with Spain and its fortified sherry wines, solera aging involves setting up rows of casks (or sometimes vats) for fractional aging. Finished batches of wine are drawn from the oldest, bottom tier of the casks, which are then replenished
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by drawing on the casks above them, and so on until the top tier is refilled with new wine. Because all the containers are wood, the contents continue to age, and because no cask is ever drained by more than half, each cask still contains at least a smidgeon of its original contents. Thus, every solera has at least a little something left from its first batch, and in some soleras, that little something could be very old indeed.
The crowning virtue of solera aging is its consistency. The continual reblending of the contents of the solera helps ensure that any changes in a flavor profile take place, if said changes occur at all, with glacial slowness. The method has been slow to get out of Spain and Portugal, but finally it is catching on with the wider world, including whiskey makers. The solera first came to whisky in Scotland in the 1980s, and now, a growing number of craft whiskey makers in the United States are adopting the method as well. Stranahan’s Diamond Peak Malt Whiskey Introduced in 2014 by Colorado’s trailblazing craft distillery, Stranahan’s, Diamond Peak was originally conceived as an older sibling of its original core expression. This year, the distillery revamped Diamond Peak as a still-older, but now solera-aged expression using a trio of foeders. “The addition of our foeders allows us to utilize our reserve of mature whiskey for solera finishing for our freshly harvested four-year whiskey,” says Master Distiller Rob Dietrich. “The flavor notes become deeper and more refined, ultimately creating a richer complexity.” Blade and Bow Bourbon The regular release version of Blade and Bow Bourbon started its solera as a five-tier system in 2015 out of the warehouses of the historic Stitzel-Weller Distillery in Louisville, the birthplace of Pappy Van Winkle. This solera was initially started with the same 22 yearold bourbon that has since gone into two separate, limited edition releases of ultra-aged whiskey, and recharged with bourbon (aged at least six years) ever since. The Glenfiddich 15 Year-Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky This is the granddaddy of solera-aged whiskies, pioneered by legendary former Master Blender David Stewart. The new whisky entering the solera is already matured, having been aged in a mix of ex-
bourbon barrels, old sherry butts, and new American oak casks before entering into specially constructed Oregon pine solera vats. The 15 year-age statement, as always, denotes the minimum; this being a solera whisky suggests at least some of the whisky in the blend is much older.
Solera is a mix of Hillrock’s own inhouse, small barrel-aged whiskey and sourced high rye bourbon. After coming out of the solera, the bourbon is finished in 20 year-old butts. That process adds maturity and complexity to what is, essentially, a youthful base of bourbon whiskey.
Hillrock Estate Distillery SoleraAged Bourbon Whiskey Located in New York’s Hudson Valley, Hillrock Estate Distillery has the honor of offering the world’s first soleraaged bourbon. The bourbon was created with the expertise of the late Dave Pickerell, the former distiller and consultant behind so many of the best-known names in American craft whiskey. The bourbon entering the Hillrock
The Steward’s Solera Bourbon Whiskey This Colorado outfit makes an all-sourced bourbon, drawing on a variety of stock coming from not just Colorado, but also Kentucky, Tennessee, and Indiana to charge the casks in its solera. The oldest bourbon that went into the solera was distilled back in 2000, while some of the Colorado-made bourbon used red, Bloody Butcher corn in its mash.
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The age Premium Dark Spirits A LOOK AT THE HISTORY AND HERITAGE OF RUM By Michael Tulipan
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um has long ties to the age of European exploration and colonization of the Caribbean by the English, French, and Spanish. Rum distillation began in the region’s sugarcane plantations starting in the seventeenth century. The first recorded account of the beverage is from Barbados dating back to 1650. Today, rum is a $16 billion-dollar business worldwide. In the 1860s, Cuba became a center of rum distilling thanks to the establishment of BACARDÍ and the introduction of its lighter style rum that was perfect for mixing in drinks. Today, any discussion of the modern rum business will naturally highlight BACARDÍ and its storied history. With more than 150 years of heritage and deep roots throughout the Caribbean, BACARDÍ remains the rum industry’s global leader and a trusted source of innovation. You can’t make a cocktail without ice and BACARDÍ operated one of the first ice plants in Cuba. Back in the day, anyone who bought a case of rum also received a token good for one block of ice, allowing bars to serve cold cocktails at a time when there was no electricity.
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BACARDÍ JULEp
The Daiquiri made with freshsqueezed lime juice, sugar, shaved ice, and BACARDÍ rum is named for a town in Cuba where the drink was invented in 1898. Created by American engineer Jennings Cox, as a refreshing treat for his copper mining crew, the Daiquiri was actually one of the first cocktails to list ice as an ingredient. The simple three-ingredient drink was embraced by everyone from Ernest Hemingway to President John F. Kennedy who drank the cocktail on his sailboat, the Honey Fitz. “The Daiquiri and the Piña Colada represent two of the most epic moments in cocktail history—in two different cities and decades (preand post-Prohibition),” says Juan Coronado, National Brand Ambassador for BACARDÍ “indicating the long impact that BACARDÍ rums had in classic cocktail culture.” The also seemingly simple cocktail the Rum and Coke has strong historical origins as well. In 1900, American soldiers toasted their victory in the Spanish-American War by mixing Coca-Cola with BACARDÍ. This celebration of a free Cuba was named the Cuba Libre— hence the name of the drink. These and other drinks contributed to a booming business, and in 1910, BACARDÍ became Cuba’s first multinational company, opening a facility in Barcelona, Spain. Other facilities in New York City, Mexico and Puerto Rico followed. The Cuban Revolution was catastrophic for private businesses on the island because the Castro government seized all assets.
BACARDÍ Treacle INGREDIENTS
2 ½ parts BACARDÍ Reserva Ocho Rum ¼ parts sugar syrup 1 part freshly-pressed apple juice 2 dashes orange bitters Apple slice (for garnish) Luckily, BACARDÍ had already moved its trademarks and yeast strain out of Cuba. It had established its multinational presence in several other countries, including a base in Cataño, Puerto Rico, which is now the largest premium rum distillery in the world. Increasingly, aged rums are coming to the forefront and BACARDÍ leads the way with Reserva Ocho and Gran Reserva Diez, both great for sipping or as a substitute for whiskey in a classic cocktail. BACARDÍ Global SVP of Marketing, Ned Duggan, says, “For those who like a classic, spirit-forward cocktail, we’d recommend trying an Old Fashioned made with BACARDÍ Reserva Ocho—it’s popular among top bartenders and spirits connoisseurs alike.“
PREPARATION
Build over ice until perfectly diluted. Float apple juice last. Garnish with an apple slice.
BACARDÍ JULEP INGREDIENT
2 parts BACARDÍ Reserva Ocho Rum 6 mint leaves ²/5 parts sugar syrup 2 dashes peach bitters 1 mint sprig (for garnish) 1 peach slice (for garnish) PREPARATION
Build over crushed ice. Garnish with mint sprig and peach slice.
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PIÑA COLADAS IF YOU LIKE
By Colleen Thomson
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he well-known lyrics, “If you like Piña Coladas and getting caught in the rain,” became so famous that the tune, actully called Escape, became known as the Piña Colada song. Joan Crawford also famously claimed the drink tasted, “better than slapping Bette Davis in the face.” Just say the name Piña Colada (Spanish for “strained pineapple”), and it conjures up images of tiki cruises and Hawaiian shirts—the drink certainly became synonymous with beachcomber culture at one time. But the times are changing. Dig a little deeper and turns out the Piña Colada is a cocktail with a storied past, one rooted in Puerto Rico’s culture and cuisine. Most agree that the frothy concoction made from coconut cream, pineapple juice, white rum, and ice originated in San Juan. However, three different barmen claim to have invented the cocktail. The Caribe Hilton Hotel alleges that the Piña Colada was first concocted in 1954 by a bartender named Ramon “Monchito” Marrero after he worked for three months on the hotel’s signature drink. Marrero served the cocktail until he retired in the late 1980s. Another bartender at the Caribe Hilton Hotel, Ricardo Garcia, also claims he came up with the cocktail after a coconut shortage forced him to improvise. The third version comes from the Barrachina Restaurant in Old San Juan. A bronze plaque outside the entrance proclaims the Piña Colada was invented by its barman Ramon Portas Mingot in 1963. No matter its origin, in 1954 an agricultural professor at the University of Puerto Rico named Ramon Lopez-Irizarry, invented a key ingredient for the Piña Colada called Coco Lopez. Blended from the hearts of coconuts and combined with natural cane sugar, the premade Coco Lopez became an integral ingredient in a quality-version of the cocktail. To promote his new invention, Lopez-Irizarry started approaching hotels and chefs to present Coco Lopez and incidentally the Hotel Caribe became his first client. Blenders were supplied to the barmen and Piña Coladas were served to hotel guests while a piano player performed in the hotel’s Beachcomber Bar.
By 1978, Puerto Rico had adopted the Piña Colada as its national cocktail. “The article, “Piña Colada are Disgusting,” by Gus Garcia-Roberts, is one of my favorites, and no, I’m not crazy,” says Papo Suarez, General Manager for Coco Lopez. “When I started with Coco Lopez 25 years-ago, my first goal was to sell it to every company that produced a Piña Colada mix for the same reason as the article’s opening.” Starting his piece for American Way, GarciaRoberts laments before boarding a plane to Puerto Rico, that he only ingested Piña Coladas at cheap poolside bars, which were served in flimsy plastic cups and tasted like sunscreen, drizzled over ice. “Younger people … millennials, don’t know Coco Lopez and when they try a Piña Colada made with a terrible premix they don’t like it and move on to a Margarita or something else. But, try an original Piña Colada made with Coco Lopez and your whole perspective changes,” says Suarez. As the tiki craze continues to surge and a slew of trendy bars offer modern twists and new iterations on tropical cocktails, Piña Coladas are forming a new wave of followers as bartenders explore elevated versions of the classic. Gone are the overly sweet and watery Piña Coladas of the past. In their place are perfectly balanced concoctions using fresh pineapple juice and coconut cream with proportionate sweetness of coconut to fruit acidity. Not frozen, but iced, and mixed with quality golden rum.
Try an original Piña Colada made with Coco Lopez and your whole perspective changes. — Papo Suarez,
General Manager for Coco Lopez
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RECIPES LE SIRENUSE, THE ULTIMATE PLACE TO GO WHEN VISITING POSITANO, ITALY HAS OPENED STATESIDE IN MIAMI. CHECK OUT THESE DAZZLING COCKTAILS THAT WILL INSPIRE FEELINGS OF STRONG MEDITERRANEAN SEA BREEZES AND SUNNING OFF THE AMALFI COAST. (FOR FULL RECIPE PREPARATIONS PLEASE VISIT CHILLEDMAGAZINE.COM) Photos by Anthony Nader @52chef
LA VALLE DEI MULINI INGREDIENTS 1 ½ oz. black pepper-infused vodka* 1 barspoon salted Pernod 1 oz. tropical sherbet** 1 barspoon orgeat PREPARATION Shake ingredients with ice; strain into a pasta mug. Garnish with pepperoncini strips. *Black pepperinfused vodka: Combine 80 grams black pepper with 2 liters Absolut Elyx; infuse overnight, filter, and label it. **Tropical Sherbet: muddle zest of 18 oranges and 1 mango into 300 grams of sugar. When sugar turns yellow and sticky, put in a vacuum bag, seal (program 6, 100%), let sit overnight. Next morning add 900ml lemon juice and 200ml pineapple juice. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Let it sit for about 2 hours; stirring occasionally. Fine strain the mixture, removing the zest; bottle and date.
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IL FIGLIO DEL VESUVIO INGREDIENTS 1 ½ oz. lemon olive oil-infused Grey Goose* ¼ oz. Tio Pepe 1 oz. spiced tomato water** 1 oz. sour apple water*** 3 mezcal-infused tomatoes (for garnish)****
PREPARATION Stirred in a sautérne with chunks of ice. Garnish with 3 mezcal tomatoes on a pick. Lemon olive oil vodka: Halve 4 lemons; cook in pan on low until brown. Add 250ml olive oil to 1 liter of Grey Goose; then add the cooked lemons. Let it infuse for 2 hours and then freeze it overnight (fat wash); next day strain through a coffee filter and bottle.
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ALICI DI CETARA INGREDIENTS 1 oz. Glenlivet 15 Whisky 1 oz. Martini & Rossi Riserva Speciale Ambrato Vermouth ¼ oz. rich tea syrup* 1 ½ oz. soda water Balsamic-limoncello paint (for garnish)** PREPARATION Stirred in a Highball glass with a column ice cube. Garnish with half glass of balsamic-limoncello paint and “salty anchovies” powder.
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MANDOLINI DI SORRENTO INGREDIENTS 1 ½ oz. Bulleit Bourbon 3 ⁄4 oz. Mancino Vermouth Chinato ½ oz. banana liquor ½ oz. Martini Bitter 1 ⁄4 oz. coffee liqueur Dash chocolate bitters PREPARATION Stir all ingredients and serve up with a chunk of clear ice.
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HOT SPOT
SPOTLIGHT
REDESIGNED
By Bryen Dunn
AND REVITALIZED THE PEMBROKE AND DOYLE BAR IN WASHINGTON, D.C. 110
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At The Pembroke, the Paris-inspired terrace gives guests an incredible view of Dupont Circle, while inside, the interior marble tabletops and plush salmon-colored leather sofas give it a welcoming atmosphere. Interior designer Martin Brudnizki—who updated the former space with plush blue semicircle banquettes, coral couches, and brass light fixtures—led the redesign, while general manager, Joel Freyberg, managed the overall operations. The stunning setting is quite the backdrop for executive chef Harper McClure’s farm-to-table fare that draws flavors and inspiration from France, Morocco, Italy, Ireland, and Spain. Some of the standout signature dishes include the Dover sole meuniere, homemade peekytoe crab ravioli, veal Milanese, and Greek salad. Other featured menu items include lamb shank tagine with couscous, almonds, and dried fruit; tender grilled octopus with roasted potatoes, olives, cherry tomatoes and celery; and lamb porterhouse. Vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options are also available. The 12-seat, 36-foot bar features spacious leather swiveling bar stools, welcoming guests to cozy up to the exquisite marble bar top accented with gleaming gold barware. Cocktail offerings from the bar manager team Dominik Lenikowski and Nitin Titus include a Spicy Rose Margarita Martini drink and the Ref Velvet, a complex drink balancing sweetness of fruit and depth of spices, with a touch of fizz to finish. The wine list includes nearly 70 bottles and almost 30 glasses of sparkling, white, red, and rosé selections from around the world. The Pembroke has become an ideal destination for an evening of drinks and dining, either indoor or alfresco, with seating for 127 guests inside and 78 on the seasonal terrace.
THE DUPONT CIRCLE HOTEL RECENTLY OPENED THE PEMBROKE RESTAURANT AND DOYLE BAR, ALONG WITH A COMPLETE REDESIGN OF THE LOBBY AREA AND ROOFTOP PENTHOUSE. THE HOTEL IS QUICKLY BECOME A CATALYST FOR SPEARHEADING THE REVITALIZATION OF THE NEIGHBORHOOD, CATCHING THE ATTENTION OF THE AFTER-WORK CROWD, NEARBY CORPORATE CLIENTELE, AND TOURISTS VISITING THE CAPITAL CITY.
Doyle features geometric tiled floors and wood paneling set against a mid-century backdrop that incorporates some of the building’s original 1950s architecture. High-gloss lacquered walls with fluted detailing lend an air of glamour, while twin fireplaces create a welcoming atmosphere and the perfect backdrop to the brass bar. Old and New World wines complement a menu of refined bar bites that are available for late-night nibbles. Cocktail offerings are unique interpretations of the 1950s and 60s classics, prepared with a vast array of top-shelf whiskey, rum, gin, and vodka. Along with the classics, innovative originals include Smuggler’s Secret (made with Ilegal Mezcal Reposado, Vergnano Maraschino liqueur, yellow chartreuse, lime, and a housemade allspice blackberry egg white foam) and the Ocean Bloom (a unique take on a celery Gimlet served up in a coupe glass that uses Vigilant Navy Strength, a local D.C. gin distilled to 114 proof, along with Domaine de Canton, lime, celery puree, and green chartreuse).
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CHILLIN’ WITH
Stephanie Hollman BRAVO’S THE REAL HOUSEWIVES OF DALLAS STAR IS A FITNESS ENTHUSIAST KNOWN FOR HER PHILANTHROPY, DEDICATING HER FREE TIME TO HELPING CHARITIES FOR WOMEN, CHILDREN, AND THE HOMELESS. STEPHANIE RECENTLY DONATED BONE MARROW TO SAVE A STRANGER’S LIFE! THE TOUR FROM HER PODCAST, WEEKLY DOSE OF BS, LAUNCHES SOON. Photo by Benjo Arwas
DRINK
I like red wine; my favorite is Prisoner and I love Kim Crawford. But, Espresso Martinis have my heart. My all-time favorite cocktail is a Moscow Mule.
BARTENDING PAST
Not professionally, but I can get real crafty at home.
HOME BAR
Despite not drinking very much, we have three home bars. That sounds like a lot, but if you knew the amount of people that my husband, Travis, likes to invite over for parties, it hardly seems like enough. Our guests will never go thirsty, I can tell you that.
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Dining Out
Casual Mexican is always our go-to because when you have two little boys as your dinner dates, you need a restaurant that is loud! Also, I am a fajitas junkie! I always go for chicken fajitas because they’re high in protein but I can put down a steak like you’ve never seen before!
@WHITEKNIGHTWINES
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