Happy Clampers! The Clamshell is steeped in history

Happy Clampers!

By Andrew Rogers Chippy Chat Journalist

Located on the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, the Clamshell is as steeped in history as the street on which it resides. Chippy Chat popped in over Hogmanay to meet current proprietor Massimo Andreucci, sample the wares –– and explore the rich Italian tradition of Scotland’s chip shop heritage

While fish & chips is considered quintessentially British by the wider public, seasoned readers of Chippy Chat will know there are many theories as to the global origins of the nation’s favourite dish. What is indisputable however – although not so widely known – is the key role played by Italians in the rise to prominence of the local chippy in the British Isles, most notably in Scotland.

An estimated 4000 Italian immigrants arrived in Alba between 1890 and 1914, mostly from poor rural areas such as Lucca and Frasinore. Many walked or grabbed lifts on horse & carts as they made their way from southern Europe to the north of the UK. Seeing the popularity of fish and chips on their way through London, the travellers soon started making the trade their own, with shops often doubling as ice-cream parlours. Such outlets required minimal investment and any Italian worth his salt knew how to fry cod.

Chip shops grew up first in and around the Little Italy’s and spread to industrial areas where large numbers of workers lived. By the time World War One broke out Scotland was home to 4,500 chippers, with an estimated 800,000 fish suppers being sold every week in Glasgow alone. A great number were cooked by Italians and over a century later the Andreucci family who run the Clamshell in Edinburgh are maintaining a proud tradition.

The first fish & chip shop at 148 High Street on the Royal Mile was opened in the 1950s by Paolo Crolla, who had spent the previous decade running the chippy at number 180, today the colourful office of the Edinburgh Fringe. Initially called the New Restaurant, number 148 was renamed the Clamshell by Antonio (Paolo’s son) and his wife Dorothy who ran the shop for many years. The couple famously described haggis in many different languages to tourists in their shop window, tempting them to try

something new with their chips.

After Antonio retired the family rented out the building to the Andreucci family in 1987 who quickly took on the mantle of offering great food and friendly faces – the Italian way you could say. That was certainly on the menu when Chippy Chat arrived on New Year’s Eve afternoon as your correspondents received an exceptionally warm welcome from Massimo long before we explained about this article.

My delicious piece of haddock was freshly cooked to order while Beverley’s mushy peas were a real treat: we actually saw Massimo mashing up the heated processed peas himself. We also enjoyed watching him interact with Japanese tourists fascinated by the use of salt and vinegar, answer several queries about Mars Bars and serve up an Italian pizza that looked way better than the standard chain outlet fare.

Several locals also came in for a traditional fish supper and Massimo seemed to know most of their orders before they even asked. “The ratio of residents to tourists is roughly 50-50 these days,” he told us. “Many of the locals have moved out of the High Street as the steep stairs became harder to negotiate or they have taken the opportunity to hire their buildings to tourists themselves who are keen to stay on or near the famous Royal Mile.”

“Everyone is welcome here,” says Massimo. “My wife is Polish and I love the multi-cultural life that has always been Edinburgh’s hallmark. We have been able to stay open throughout the pandemic to serve the locals and don’t shut until past 03.00 am on the busiest weekends to accommodate late night revellers.”

Massimo’s enthusiasm for his trade is infectious and he loves sharing the history behind the chip shop. “The inspiration for the name came from the stone carving of a clam shell above the door adjacent to ours. This was a nod to the history of these buildings, which had been operating as a fishmonger for centuries. During a complete refurbishment in 2005 we found the original fireplaces where they used to cook the fish. It was a special moment.”

Like the Crolla family before them with their haggis and coffee, the Andreuccis have not been afraid to innovate to draw in the crowds that flock to Edinburgh, mixing up traditions and cultures with the likes of deep-fried pizza, mars bars and battered black pudding. “My parents deserve a great deal of credit for how they continued the legacy of the former owners and made the Clamshell famous well beyond the walls of Edinburgh.”