ISSUE 00 ULTRAVIOLET
THE ANTI-
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UGLI
What makes you UGLI?
TEAM CHLOE WALKER
LYNNE BOOLS- ROBERTS
My ‘anything goes’ approach to life
I use my style and clothes to express my individuality
chloe@uglimagazine.co.uk
ANNA LEWIS I’m not afraid to use my creativity to push the boundaries
lynne@uglimagazine.co.uk
anna@uglimagazine.co.uk
CONTRIBUTORS CHLOE FRANKLIN
VIVIAN YEUNG
Nothing fazes me
I’m a secret exotic mermaid
www.behance.net/loneranger
@YeungViv
www.uglimagazine.com
/UGLImagazine
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UGLI MAGAZINE
UGLI SUMMER 2015 THE ULTRAVIOLET ISSUE
We’re excited to finally bring you the debut issue of UGLI magazine. In these pages we make our mark as the first independent beauty magazine to celebrate the face AND the story. Through storytelling and fierce photoshoots we invite you to see the world through our perspective. Created by three young females, who have been bought up with the distorted perspective of the ‘ideal beauty’, UGLI takes an alternative approach. We source individuals who inspire us through their unconventional attitude and appearance in the hope that they will inspire you too. As we begin this journey we have found those people who are starting out on journey’s of their own. Featuring interviews with young start up entrepreneurs and upcoming blogger Sabrina Carder. While these people capture your attention, there’s more to them than just what you see. Our magazine as a whole goes beyond the eye and with this issue we wanted to celebrate that. That’s why we named this the UltraViolet issue.
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CONTENTS 10 / ON THE VERGE 22 / THE BRAIDED GEN 26 / GENDER EXPRESSION 28 / WHAT THE F*CK IS GENDER? 38 / XX:XY 40 / THE YOUNG ECCENTRIC 54 / #GIRLBOSS 58 / WHITE SPACE 70 / THE LBW WAY 72 / CITY SPECTRUM 80 / RAW REVIVAL
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ON THE VERGE Photography // Anna Lewis Styling // Chloe Walker Make-Up // Lynne Bools-Roberts
Embrace the unpredicatble with wide arms. With the use of clashing colours, bold graphics and peculiar make up “On the Verge” blurs and redefines what it means to be youthful. Through a refreshing lens which celebrates playfulness, humour and adolescence we can forget about trying to look cool and instead ooze vibrance and confidence. With connotations of rebellion and elevating the everyday, “On the Verge” encourages you to showcase your fun side.
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UGLI MAGAZINE FIONA WEARS VINTAGE TOP, URBAN OUTFITTERS SKIRT
LIPSTICK FROM LIMECRIME
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FIONA WEARS MOTEL ROCKS HALTER-NECK, LITTLE BLACK WARDROBE SKIRT, LIPSTICK FROM LIMECRIME
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FIONA WEARS MOTEL ROCKS HALTER-NECK, LITTLE BLACK WARDROBE SKIRT, LIPSTICK FROM LIMECRIME
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FIONA WEARS LITTLE BLACK WARDROBE BRA-LET AND SHOES, URBAN OUTFITTERS SHORTS, VINTAGE LEATHER JACKET, LIPSTICK FROM LIMECRIME
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FIONA WEARS LITTLE BLACK WARDROBE BRA-LET AND SHOES, URBAN OUTFITTERS SHORTS, VINTAGE LEATHER JACKET, LIPSTICK FROM LIMECRIME
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Source// Nike x Keash
Words//Chloe Walker
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THE BRAIDED GENERATION Braids. Once a school girl hairstyle reserved for playgrounds have come to resemble attitude and style in 2015. Ordinary â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;french plaitsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; have been replaced by these fierce works of art. Most recently seen on music artists such as FKA Twigs, it is a hairstyle which is gaining some serious kudos in the beauty world.
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“Forget watches or jewellery. Keash braids are the must have equivalent for those who share an unconventional attitude and appreciation for individual style” A style suited to anyone looking to push boundaries and achieve a stand out look; these aren’t the same 90’s braids seen on the likes of Gwen Stefani and Christina Aguilera. This is braiding with a twist (or ten). One brand driving the trend are Keash Braids who with their fun braiding service, are taking a new and exciting approach. In a short amount of time they have developed a cult following with die hard braiders flocking to their pop up salon to get in on the action.
into businesses. So learning that the masterminds behind this braiding business were two school friends made Keash officially UGLI’s newest crush. The gifted duo are known as Taiba Akhuetie, 25 and Jessy Linton, 24. They set up the braiding service not to target those who wore the style already but to allow everyone to try it for themselves. They don’t discriminate or exclude, all you need is the confidence to try the style and you’re welcome to become part of this new and exciting crowd.
They have an exciting and creative energy that has transformed a simple adolescent obsession into a style which is captivating the most style conscious and attitude driven of girls. Keash have imparted their hair talents on bloggers such as Sophie Hannah Richardson and the Confetti Crowd; this online publicity has helped them gain momentum in the blogging world. Everyone wants in on the Keash action. Forget watches or jewellery. Keash braids are the must have equivalent for those who share an unconventional attitude and appreciation for individual style. This year has seen the brand spread their magic all over London, slowly converting girls all over the city to the Keash way.
Just head over to their site and you can see the nine signature styles to choose from. This choice and reasonable price means there’s no excuse not to opt in. Each style carries the same creative and energetic vibe which the brand are known for. For those who are feeling even more adventurous there’s then the ability to personalise your look; add in rings, hair chalk and clips, whatever takes your fancy. Braids aren’t about being serious, they’re an inventive way of having fun with your style.
UGLI have a soft spot for young entrepreneurs who are ambitious enough to transform their talents
As other braid bars open up, it looks like it’s a style which is catching on. Though few of these have the hardcore plaited dedication of Keash. We suggest checking them out to become the newest member of this plaited tribe (we know we want to).
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GENDER EXPRESSION Words // Lynne Bools-Roberts
So it’s happened. Bruce Jenner has finally opened up to the world about his cross dressing habits and gender identity in an interview with Diane Sawyer, with just under a staggering 17 million viewers. A worldwide conversation has been sparked with mainstream media outlets attempting to define what it means to be “transgender”; from Hollyoaks story lines to evocative viral videos (yes we see you BBC Free Speech). We have also just seen the introduction of the gender-neutral “mx” title, which has been officially recognised in the UK (yay!). In a topic which has never been so pertinent to the masses, UGLI want to explore gender as a form of expression - an act of liberalism and creativity.
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“HANDSOME WOMEN AND PRETTY MEN STAND OUT AMONGST ORTHODOX BEAUTY” People tend to simplify topics which they don’t understand; when something or someone is different or progressive. Maybe this is why everyone is obsessed with categorising individuals into their appropriate gender confine; “male”, “female”, or the newly accepted “transgender”. The people who fit neatly into one of those boxes rarely - if ever question what gender really means. They have no need to, because the system has worked in their favour. But we cannot and should not simplify other people’s gender identities there is no singular definition or reason why someone may choose to identify differently to the gender they were assigned to at birth. It is all far too complicated. One interpretation is that cross dressing and other such lifestyles allow individuals to express portions of their personality that society fail to accept. Gender is all around us and we are usually unaware of its ever present influence on our concept of this core aspect of the self; through our upbringing to the media. Gender is, on the whole, a social construct particularly with regard to gender expression. Cross dressing allows individuals to break the bounds of social norms, for men to express female personality traits and vice versa. So who are we to judge, categorise and attempt to elucidate? Surely we should be applauding these individuals - they have the courage
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to stand up for who they are, challenge convention and embrace themselves without regard of what society deem fit. Others explain their lifestyle as a creative outlet. Their appearance as the opposite sex is an art form that involves building a theatrical illusion. Some transvestites simply call it a hobby. Either way, blurring the boundaries of gender is beautiful - “handsome” women and “pretty” men stand out amongst orthodox beauty. Again we should be celebrating those pushing the notional boundaries that have been put up. Diversity of gender is a natural part of the human experience, throughout history and traversing cultures. We have come a long way since the days when beauty was one standard; those deemed beautiful were a certain size, shape and colour. Looking to the future, with a subtle virtual push from Bruce Jenner and other such sources, everything and anything is beautiful - as long you stand out for being you. One day, we will be able to express whatever versions of ourselves we want to be without restriction, convention or dogma. We will position and reposition ourselves to our hearts content along the traditional gender spectrum and we will do it creatively, independently and beautifully.
WHAT WHAT THE THE F*CK F*CK IS IS GENDER? GENDER? Bradley Sharpe and his fearless anti-tribe break the rules and redefine gender boundaries in a loud, proud and glamorously glitterfied way. In an age focused on freedom of expression, why should gender be defined by a tick box?
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XX: XY Words // Vivian Yeung
Every movement has its defining moments and in recent years, feminism has grown in recognition and planted its power stance firmly in the limelight. With women’s’ rights refusing to be ignored and Bruce Jenner’s public declaration of identifying with being female, the media has highlighted the issue of sexual stereotypes. While there are fundamental differences between men and women, we’re inherently human, which is something that gender neutral beauty is showing to us.
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Though the beauty industry is constantly evolving in terms of technology, it’s been changing recently to align itself more with the notions and ideals of modernity; a view that feminism has brought to the forefront is that gender roles are societal constructs. Females weren’t born to wear aprons in the kitchen and men weren’t born with an Adonis complex. However, what’s easy to ignore in the fight for female rights is rights for men. The beauty industry has always been biased and leaned more towards women. While it’s completely normal, and even required in some jobs, for women to wear makeup, it’s seen as unnatural when a man does so. Furthermore, men are sometimes met with criticism when they wear makeup as it’s seen as a homosexual characteristic. However, despite this, male beauty is slowly on the rise. Though makeup isn’t as common on a man as it is on a woman yet, in recent years male grooming has been increasing in popularity. Debenhams reported in 2013 that sales of grooming products had increased and that was before the rugged appearance of the beard exploded on the scene. It’s now 2015 and gender neutral beauty products are recognising that men, not only groom, but should be allowed to wear makeup without being ridiculed. Unisex brands include Grown, Glossier, Enter Pronoun, and Sam Farmer. The ideology behind gender neutral beauty products, according to Sam Farmer, is to break down the constructed gender roles that he found himself facing when buying deodorant for his daughter. Having brought up his children as equals, it came as a shock when his daughter hit puberty and suddenly, marketing schemes started placing gender stereotypes on her. “I went to the shop and went to the girls aisle for personal care. My daughter’s Barbie days were long gone, but everything was still all sparkles and hearts and flowers – with the sinister addition of names like Minx, Tease and Be Sinful. She’s 12. She just wants
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a deodorant!” On the other hand, the packaging for male products were in the darker and more muted tones of black, grey or blue. Worryingly, the dominating male image was carefully constructed through the marketing of words such as adrenaline, power, and control. While there’s nothing wrong with fitting into these stereotypes, Sam Farmer aims to provide an alternative for those who don’t care for the division between the male and female market. Since the beauty industry has always focused more on the female market, products such as deodorant actually cost more than their male counterparts. Brands offer different products with, in a lot of cases, the female products priced higher. While gender neutral beauty products could be another capitalist move to bring something new to the market, and cash in more on men, it at least doesn’t adhere to gender pricing. In essence, it also makes more sense because besides a man’s skin being 30% thicker than a woman’s, there actually isn’t much difference in the needs between men and women. Sam Farmer argues that for young people, skin and hair have the same structure. “There are very slight molecular differences, but personal care formulations don’t work on a molecular level when you’re washing your hair. Shampoo doesn’t differentiate between girl hair and boy hair when it’s on your head. It’s irrelevant.” So overall, whether the market is for you or not, we can say that gender neutral beauty seems to be more than just a marketing scheme as its ideology moves towards promoting a fairer, gender equal society that can embrace the metrosexual man. Maybe we can expect an endorsement from Miley Cyrus soon, proudly baring her armpit hair.
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“[Gender neutral beauty] moves towards promoting a fairer, gender equal society that can embrace the metrosexual man”
THE YOUNG ECCENTRIC In a cosy cafe in Nottingham, we met Sabrina Carder, the face behind the popular blog â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The Young Eccentric. We discussed everything from game boys to flashing trainers, getting to the heart of what makes her UGLI. In self styled photo shoots, Sabrina shared her favourite outfits with us and expressed her eccentricity which she has become known for.
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Photography//Chloe Franklin Model///Sabrina Carder
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“IF I SEE SOMETHING AND IT MAKES ME SMILE, I WANT IT”
UGLI: Why did you start blogging on your Instagram, how did that all blow up? Sabrina: I started a lookbook 5 years ago and I did quite well on there. But back then I was going to uni and I was really shy so I used to think ‘oh no what if people from uni find my photos and they think I’m really up my own arse?’. So I deleted it all. Then a couple of years later in the second year of uni, I was just really tired of my mum and my identical twin saying ‘what are you wearing?’ ‘go change’. (They still make me change now). That’s when I started it thinking there must be someone out there who dresses like me. UGLI: Did it give you more confidence when you started expressing yourself online? Sabrina: When I fist started, I would put a photo saying ‘I like this’. I had no idea what to do. I didn’t start it with any attention of becoming a blogger. I’m guessing I got better at putting more than one photo.
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When I was in sixth form, in 2009 I got a pair of white creepers. This did not go down well at my all girl private school. Then when I went to uni I was thought there would be people who appreciate this, especially on a film course. So I walked into the flat in my white creepers and they asked me if they were for my disability. Obviously now those things are coming into fashion. My friends always tell me ‘Sabs you’re so uncool it’s cool’. UGLI: Why did you choose the ‘Young Eccentric?’ Sabrina: I’m highly, highly dyslexic so every time everyone asks this, I don’t have any idea. Basically my nan who was one of my best friends (she’s a legend). She’s the only one in my family who told me I could dress how I want and appreciated that creativity so I think with the young eccentric I just wanted to be the same as her. Also I blog as Sabrina Carder not Sabrina Hutchinson because it’s my nan’s maiden name, and when my parents got divorced I wanted to have her name even more.
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â&#x20AC;&#x153; I n eve r l e t a n y t h i n g g e t t o m e â&#x20AC;?
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UGLI: Who or what inspires you? Sabrina: I got all of my grans wardrobe so obviously she inspires me and also a lot of random things that I see. Everything I have has cartoons or food on them; anything 90’s or nostalgic. I have a tumblr account where I source things from. It’s more if I see something and it makes me smile, I want it. I don’t think about trends, I’m awful. UGLI: What has been your greatest compliment? Sabrina: I got it the other day from an old school friend who I hadn’t seen for about 6 years. She said ‘it’s so nice to talk to someone who’s genuine.’ Some of the stuff I do is really cool. I snap chat at
a pool party and I’m like ‘look I’m at a pool party’ (in my flashing trainers). I get quite scared though sometimes. My real friends know I’m genuine, but someone who just adds me on facebook doesn’t and that’s all I want. Recently I did a blog post about too young to give a fuck. I put about being very lucky that I don’t care what people think about me. My friends and my sister can’t go out without make up where as I never where make up. On shoot days I have to get up very early, it takes me an embarrassingly long time. Someitmes my mum’s like ‘just put on something’. When I went to intern at places I never wore make up. People say I look great without it on and I tell them that’s because you haven’t seen me with it.
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UGLI: Has anyone ever criticised you? Sabrina: Ironically I got the most hate comments when I was put on the top 10 weirdest street style list on london fashion week S/S14. I just laugh. My sister read one and I was wearing her coat in it, someone said it should be worn by a tramp. Some people say ‘does this girl know their are food banks these days?’ or ‘I see yahoo are praising anorexic chicks’. Come on now, that’s just not nice. I never let it get to me. UGLI: When do you feel most beautiful? Sabrina: The thing is that for me I don’t ever judge myself on a spectrum from ugly to beautiful that’s
why I’m very lucky as a girl. I’m a big tom boy as well, I was playing my game boy on the way up, I’ve become known as the model who goes on shoots with a game boy. [But if I had to say] the time you feel most beautiful is when you’re around your friends and loved one’s, the people who you know love you inside and out. UGLI: What is the first thing you notice about a person when you meet them? Sabrina: I immediately notice someone’s personality and whether they are genuine. I can tell if someone’s genuine or not based on if I want to speak to them more. I’m not going to waste my time speaking to someone who’s not genuine.
“I don’t ever judge myself on a spectrum from ugly to beautiful”
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Sabrina: I can’t really speak for that because when I go to blogger events I’m always a little bit (or try to pretend to be) more confident. So I completely appreciate people putting on a front because sometimes you have to. Otherwise i would be sat at an event just not speaking, with my flashing trainers on. I think also now a days bloggers are being treat more like celebrities. I’ve never made a penny from my blog at all. I’ve not signed up to any affiliates or anything. For me blogging is still a hobby so if I work with an independent brand, I’ll work with them a lot because that’s what I believe you should do. UGLI: What would you say to your high school self? Sabrina: Stop being so shy and socially awkward and a scaredy cat. The 3 s’s.
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UGLI: Do you find that a lot with the blogging world, that people are different than how they are online?
UGLI: What makes you UGLI? Sabrina: My mum would be a great one to answer this. People say to me your style is different because you have an identical twin. My twin has cerebal palsy. So whenever I went to school I was always like her carer. I think that’s when i started dressing a bit kooky. Everything in my being is a bit kooky. It seemed like in the time I went to uni I changed and people told me ‘you’ve changed’ so often but I think it was down to blogging which helped me be ok with myself because before that I was a lot more shy. It’s hard to believe that this fun and vibrant personality was once super shy. Sabrina has clearly grown a lot since the Young Eccentric began. However while she may now have the confidence to match her style, behind the bright lipstick, spongebob clothes and scrunchies is still a genuine girl simply having fun with what she wears.
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Source // http://loismills.co.uk/ Instagram // @loismills
White Dirt // http://www.whitedirt.co.uk/
#GIRLBOSS We caught up with Lois Mills; Girl Boss, creative director, White Dirt founder and popular blogger. She gave us the low down on what it really means to be a young entrepreneur in this day and age and how, yes she too, has a horrendous student debt. With her clean, white and minimal aesthetic driving everything she does, Lois really is an aspirational creative who exudes independence and innovation.
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QUICK FIRE Nickname Lo Age 23 Hobbies Blogging, Instagram, Running, Photography Hair dye or nail varnish? Hair dye, always Cup of tea or a vodka? Life works best with both in it If you had to wear one thing for the rest of your life, what would you choose? My House of Sunny coat - I'd happily wear nothing underneath it forever 3 things you always have in your make up bag Foundation, eyebrow kit and countouring powder What's your spirit animal? I'd love it to be something glamorous like a White Tiger, but it's probably some form of ape What makes you UGLI? That's a really hard question; I would probably say (as cliche as it sounds) my personality. A person's outlook on life and way of being is what truly separates one individual from the next. I would say my vibe of staying passionate and positive, being able to motivate others and see things through an alternative perspective is a stand out feature.
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UGLI: So tell us your story! When did you first get the dream to open your own shop and how did you go about making that dream a reality? Lois: I've always wanted to run my own business but the real desire kicked in whilst I was doing my dissertation - though that was about creating my own Creative Agency. I never really thought it would be possible at this stage in my life though (AKA with tons of Student debt and arguable experience) however my boyfriend and I started brainstorming last Summer and put the feelers out there to see whether starting up a business was really possible. In a way, I have him to thank for the push to turn White Dirt from a name on paper to a shop on the high street, as having someone to constantly talk things through with, bounce ideas with and solve problems with helped make it through the initial stages that can sometimes seem so daunting if faced alone. UGLI: What were the biggest challenges you faced? Lois: Money was always going to be a problem - that is why so many businesses operate purely online, as the overheads are a fraction of the price. I knew that I wanted to have a physical presence though, and the importance of this among the sea of online retailers. UGLI: Who or what were your biggest inspirations? Lois: So cringe, but probably my Mum - I could list a million different bloggers, aesthetic queens and young entrepreneurs - all of whom are inspirational and have impacted my vision of the world, my outlook on life and fed my desire to succeed, but at the route of who I am and who helped drive me to where I am today, it has to be ye ole Mama. I was unlucky enough to lose her when I was 16, and so I use her as an inspiration to work harder than the last time and to continue on pushing myself in whatever I pursue. It's a <57>
reminder that life is short, so do what you love but do it well. UGLI: How would you describe White Dirt in one word? Lois: Aesthetic UGLI: What do you look for when choosing brands to stock in White Dirt? How do you go about getting new brands involved? Lois: The main thing I look for is consumerability - I definitely just made that word up. It's really important that I like what the store is stocking, otherwise I think it will be obvious that it isn't 'true to the brand' and will stick out like a sore thumb! But at the end of the day, I'm also trying to run a business - and so recognising consumer activity and what works/doesn't is so important! We either usually get contacted by the brand/ brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s agent themself now that we're starting to get recognised, but we are still very low key and small time in comparison to the big players. I usually do my research and get in contact with the wholesale contact directly - and we'll take it from there, via emails or phone! It's actually a lot easier than I ever imagined. UGLI: What advice would you give to young creatives looking to achieve the same? Lois: Believe in yourself - you'll need it. Being a young creative is incredibly competitive and tough, and the sad truth is that there will be thousands of other graduates with the same skills as you. So you need to differentiate yourself with your mindset and work-ethic. Whatever you do, it will probably be a lot more challenging and tougher than you thought it would be, so you'll need to be a self-motivator to stay on track. But most of all; don't ever let yourself become so bogged down that you lose the joy in what you're doing. Life is far too short to force yourself to work on something you hate.
WHITE SPACE Photography // Anna Lewis Styling // Chloe Walker & Hannah Stirland Model // Dorothy Yang at Model Students Make Up // Lynne Bools-Roberts
A far cry from the days when beauty meant only one thing, when models were restricted by the boundaries of beauty; White Space is submersed in an unsound purity, exploring the absence of shape and boundaries. Take a monochromatic stance and define the contours of your beauty with shape and form.
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DOROTHY WEARS LITTLE BLACK WARDROBE JUMPER AND SHIRT, WWW.LITTLEBLACKWARDROBE.CO.UK CHOKER FROM MISSGUIDED EYELINER FROM MAC
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DOROTHY WEARS LITTLE BLACK WARDROBE PERSPEX CO-ORD, WWW.LITTLEBLACKWARDROBE.CO.UK EYELINER AND LIPSTICK TOPSHOP
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DOROTHY WEARS LITTLE BLACK WARDROBE JUMPER AND SHIRT, WWW.LITTLEBLACKWARDROBE.CO.UK CHOKER FROM MISSGUIDED EYELINER FROM MAC <65>
DOROTHY WEARS LITTLE BLACK WARDROBE CAGED BRA-LET AND MESH-T, WWW.LITTLEBLACKWARDROBE.CO.UK RAT AND BOA SHORTS, CHOKER FROM MISSGUIDED EYES ILLAMASQUE
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DOROTHY WEARS LITTLE BLACK WARDROBE JUMPER AND SHIRT, WWW.LITTLEBLACKWARDROBE.CO.UK CHOKER FROM MISSGUIDED EYELINER FROM MAC
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_CITY SPECTRUM _CITY SPECTRUM _CITY SPECTRUM Whether we put it down to social mediaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s search of the real or our growing dissatisfaction with the over-edited world of perfection, gone are the days where society defines beauty. We live in the here and the now, where more kids are challenging the norm and opening up the boundaries of beauty to include even your most hated imperfections . In this day and age anything can be beautiful and here are the people who have paved the way to achieve it. We have been on the pursuit for the UGLI and this issue takes us to the streets and the hair of Nottingham â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the spectrum city.
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RAW REVIVAL “Raw Revival” alludes to the Old World with geographical influences such as America’s Deep South, the African Coast and and the Caribbean. Themes of nostalgia and authenticity are portrayed in muted pastels, sun-bleached surfaces and earthy hues. Bohemian tribe meets soft rock to form an energetic look with an epicentre of creativity.
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UGLI beauty Rumbi uses her look and style to fuel her forward-thinking, carefree attitude. Raw Revival is self-styled by Rumbi, using pieces even pulled from the wardrobe of her very own Mum.
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THE ANTI-
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