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MODEL / MARCO SANCHEZ
Fluid Gender is the new black Sweep your prejudices on gender norms, and let’s have a look under the skirt.
Today’s people face a staggering range of choices and one of them is about accepting themselves. Indeed, they have to deal with a lot of space in society like sexuality, gender norms, religion, ideology, body image in society and the eyes of others.This choice is in fact one of the most important in their life because it’s the one which will define the rest of their lives.Thus, we went to meet Marco Sanchez, 20-year-old Spanish guy who’s doing a student exchange in Newcastle Upon Tyne for a year. This captivating guy told us his story: the story of a gay man who started using makeup in a world where nowadays being himself and defying gender norms is difficult. He explains us how he is handling the critics and his advice. Nowadays, our societies are anchored in obsolete rules. Every boy has to wear blue and play with trucks, and every girl has to wear pink and play with dolls. This has to change. The structure has to change. However, if we constantly put preconceived ideas in people’s mind, nothing is going to change and that’s the reason why we can legitimately wonder about the role that plays the society in this context. Indeed, we have no choice but to admit that it’s participating in the development and the proliferation of gender norms. Where society is clever, is that these famous norms are embodied and implied for years. Indeed, everybody know that men must not cry and a women have to care about the home and children. Nevertheless, this way of thinking is archaic. So, we wanted to see how these gender norms are portrayed in fashion and we see that in many ways, there have been major advanced. Indeed, we have taken a look at different campaigns. There is for example Jaden Smith who became the new face of Louis Vuitton’s women’s wear line. It’s possible to see the young boy on posters for the campaign wearing a skirt. This is so innovative: a man wearing a skirt is doing the campaign for women clothes. Besides, Jaden seems to represent a new generation: a generation that has assimilated the codes of true freedom, one that is free of manifestoes and questions about gender. Now, a man wearing a skirt is quite demystified as in the 60’s when women start wearing jeans. But, don’t be too hasty, it’s only the beginning. We also analysed the campaign of Acne Studio Kids, where it’s possible to see a little boy wearing women’s clothes. This is new, because, particularly among children, gender norms are really strong. Moreover, Jonny Johansson, co-founder and creative director of Acne Studio said about this: “I wanted to portray that feeling of first experiences with fashion, like a kid is experimenting with their look for the first time, without any preconception. Crucially, the look is fierce but also natural.This person is not looking for approval, there’s no nerves or political statement. ». Brands want to deconstruct gender in fashion which is a really good initiative and can maybe, rub off on the entire society. As well in the makeup world, some brands are ahead of the curve.
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"Sometimes people say 'why you are wearing this', they say that type of comment. I don’t really care because I think that everybody should do what they want to do." Marco Sanchez
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This is the case of Tom Ford who has created a makeup line only for men. We can also count M.A.C as a proponent for the fluid gender, “It’s all about blurring the lines between masculine and feminine” says M.A.C cosmetics director of artistry Terry Barber, and “Our mantra is All Ages, All Races, All Sexes” Karen Buglisi-Weiler, M.A.C global brand president, explains to i-D. These declarations give hope for fashion’s future. We were also curious about what the public think about that, and not only the celebrities that we can see in fashion magazines. So, as we introduced you earlier, we encountered Marco, a 20-year-old Spanish man who live in Salamanca in Spain and who uses makeup. Marco started uses makeup 4 months ago, encouraged by his friends. According to him: “nowadays, makeup is only for women. If you want to wear it, it should not be only for women or men, it should be for everyone who wants to wear it.” He pointed out a real problem in society: everything is preconceived and that induced strengthen gender norms. Concerning gender norms in our society, Marco explains: “I think it depends were you live. For example, in Spain, in Madrid you can see people, two boys or two girls kissing or with their arm round eachother. And there is nothing wrong you know. You can see transgender people and they’re accepted, there is people who speak with them, there is no problem. Where I live, it’s an university city but it’s not that big so sometime, for example, when I went to buy my makeup first time, I went to several shops and, one of the shopping assistant, she told me, she looks at me as “are you looking for makeup for you?” And I was “Yes””.This proof that mentality still need to make a progress. The fashion industry has made some progress these last years concerning gender. Indeed, they want to make gender fluid, make the distinction between women/men softer.
“nowadays, makeup is only for women. If you want to wear it, it should not be only for women or men, it should be for everyone who wants to wear it.” We can see some young people like Jaden Smith who stand out, his vision of fashion is really new, innovative, he is open minded, “Went to Top Shop to buy some girl clothes, I mean ‘clothes’” he instagrammed last year. But, despite this progress in the fashion industry, in daily life things are quite different. Indeed, it’s more complicated to be who you want to be because you have to face every day people’s mentality and judgments. If you are lucky enough to be different, don’t ever change”. Be who you want to be and not who society wants you to be, your style is your individuality." This is in fact the motto that our young Marco has decided to follow: “I don’t really care of what people’s judgements; I think that everybody should do what they want to do.” 6
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MODELS / JULIE ZANCHI / MARCO SANCHEZ
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Davide Levithan
was born a boy that world saw as a girl"
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