Trail & Timberline #1025 by Colorado Mountain Club

HIKING IN CANYONS 16 • LOCAL CLIMBING ESCAPES 28 • THE FOURTEENERS AND BEYOND 38

TRAIL &

TIMBERLINE

The Colorado Mountain Club • Winter 2014 • Issue 1025 • www.cmc.org

Canyon Country

Trail & Timberline

Executive Director’s Note Exploring Colorado’s Canyon Country

e’re dedicating this issue of Trail & Timberline to hiking and climbing in the canyons of Colorado and our neighboring states. Although both Colorado residents and visitors to our state tend to gravitate to our high alpine environments, the canyons in and around Colorado offer amazing recreational opportunities year-round and are particularly beautiful and accessible during the fall and winter months. I remember loading up my car with camping gear, bikes, and friends—now over 25 years ago—and heading to the canyon lands of Utah for the first time. These were places I’d only read about in Edward Abbey books and a handful of magazines. Places with names like Death Hollow, Scorpion Gulch, Druid Arch, and Devils Garden conjured images that both scared and excited my friends and me. We knew we had to visit, if for no other reason than to say we’d been there and made it back. Despite our decision to make that trip at the peak of summer’s heat and being ill-prepared for the sun, lack of water, and sand (inside everything), my first trip to the desert is still fresh in my memory. The colors of the rock and sky, the openness of the landscape, and the sense of adventure helped me to realize that there is much more to the Rocky Mountain West than just the high alpine destinations of Colorado. Those unique and beautiful aspects of the high desert and canyons, which have been a draw for many of us, remain largely unchanged today. Now, with more experience and years of travel behind me, I still enjoy visiting the canyon country of Colorado, Utah, and Arizona but do so with new friends and family. Seeing them experience these amazing places for the first time is even more rewarding than being there myself. Knowing how Colorado Mountain Club members enjoy adventure and travel beyond just the mountains out our back door, in 2015 the CMC Press will publish two new

books: The Best Moab and Arches National Park Hikes, expected to hit bookshelves in March, and The Best Canyonlands National Park Hikes, to be released next fall. In addition to our guidebooks, the Pikes Peak Group is offering a new course called Intro to Desert Trekking and Canyoneering, which I hope CMC members from all groups will take advantage of. Learn more about the course and safe canyon hiking in this issue’s “Safety First” article. The Club’s Adventure Travel Program— open to both members and non-members—will offer a rafting and hiking trip to the Grand Canyon, a trip to Canyon de Chelly National Monument in Arizona, and a llama-supported trip to Scorpion Gulch in the Glen Canyon National Rec-

reation Area. Check out www.cmc.org/AdventureTravel for more information. As the writer Edward Abbey once said of the canyons and desert in his essay, The Ancient Dust: “There's beauty, heartbreaking beauty, everywhere.” I hope you get a chance to experience some of that beauty this year whether through travel, or simply through a good read. See you on the trails! △

Scott Robson Executive Director Trail & Timberline

16 16 Hiking the Canyon Country of Utah and Colorado The desert gems of western Colorado By Rod Martinez

24 Learning to Ski After Age 60

28 32 Sand, Llamas, and Slot Canyons

A five-day llama-supported backpack trip in Utah By Sandi Bianchi

36 Frank Wadleigh: Dedicated to the West

Grit, determination, and finally, the snowplow turn By Janice Bennett

Early CMC members put Arches National Park on the map By Woody Smith

28 Climbing in Colorado’s Canyons

38 The Fourteeners and Beyond

Front Range crags to backcountry escapes By Helen Sinclair

Who made the lists in 2014? By Teresa Gergen, Dave Goldwater, and Chris Ruppert

Winter 2014 Trail & Timberline • Issue 1025• www.cmc.org

Trail & Timberline

Departments 01 Executive Director’s Note 06 On the Outside 08 Mission Accomplishments

Learn the latest from the membership, conservation, and youth education departments, as well as stories from the Year of the Mountaineer.

12 Around Colorado

Find a local CMC chapter or winter school.

32 On the Cover

14 Safety First Tips for desert trekking and canyoneering. By Eric Hunter

20 Pathfinder

Trail running in Colorado’s Front Range. By Peter N. Jones

42 End of the Trail

Remembering those who have passed.

43 CMC Adventure Travel

Want to get away? Wander the world with your friends at the CMC on these classic trips.

Little Wild Horse Canyon, San Rafael Swell, Utah. Dan Orcutt

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Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: N/A (3) Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS (e.g. First-Class Mail) Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: N/A No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: N/A (4) Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail (Carriers or other means) Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: N/A No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: N/A e. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: N/A No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: N/A f. Total Distribution Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 3,678 No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: 3,204 g. Copies Not Distributed Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 200 No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: 200 h. Total Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 3,878 No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: 3,504 i. Percent Paid Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 100% No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: 100% 16. The Publication of Statement of Ownership will be printed in this, the Winter 2014 issue of publication. 17. I certify that all information state above is true and complete. Sarah Gorecki, Editor, September 15, 2014.

Trail & Timberline

TRAIL & TIMBERLINE

The official publication of the Colorado Mountain Club since 1918.

Editor Sarah Gorecki editor@cmc.org

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The Colorado Mountain Club 710 10th Street, Suite 200 Golden, Colorado 80401 303-279-3080 The CMC is a 501 (c)(3) charitable organization.

www.cmc.org The Colorado Mountain Club is organized to ▶ unite the energy, interest, and knowledge of the students, explorers, and lovers of the mountains of Colorado; ▶ collect and disseminate information regarding the Rocky Mountains on behalf of science, literature, art, and recreation; ▶ stimulate public interest in our mountain areas; ▶ encourage the preservation of forests, flowers, fauna, and natural scenery; and ▶ render readily accessible the alpine attractions of this region. © 2014 Colorado Mountain Club

Trail & Timberline (ISSN 0041-0756) is published quarterly by the Colorado Mountain Club located at 710 10th Street, Suite 200, Golden, Colorado 80401. Periodicals postage paid at Golden, Colorado, and additional offices. Subscriptions are $20 per year; single copies are $5. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Trail & Timberline, 710 10th Street, Suite 200, Golden, Colorado 80401. Advertisements in Trail & Timberline do not constitute an endorsement by the Colorado Mountain Club.

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For Members member benefits

→ Join us on over 3,000 annual trips, hikes, and activities in the state’s premiere mountain-adventure organization. → Expand your knowledge and learn new skills with our schools, seminars, and events. → Support our award-winning Youth Education Program for mountain leadership. → Protect Colorado’s wild lands and backcountry recreation experiences. → Enjoy exclusive discounts to the American Mountaineering Museum. → Travel the world with your friends through CMC Adventure Travel. → Receive a 20% discount on all CMC Press purchases and start your next adventure today. → It pays to be a member. Enjoy discounts of up to 30% from retailers and corporate partners. See www.cmc.org/benefits for details. → Receive the Shared Member Rates of other regional mountaineering clubs and a host of their perks and benefits, including lodging. Visit cmc.org/Join/MountainClubPartners

Give

Your support helps our programs reach new heights! Give online today at cmc.org/support. Make your support last all year by becoming a Peaks Partner with a recurring donation of $5 or more per month. Sign up today at cmc.org! Charitable bequests of any amount help ensure the sustainability of CMC for generations to come. A planned gift does not need to be large to make a difference. Learn more about the 21st Century Circle at cmc.org. For questions about donations, workplace giving, gifts of stock, or planned gifts, please contact us at give@cmc.org or 303.996.2752.

Volunteer Efforts

If you want to share your time and expertise, give back to the club by volunteering on a variety of projects, from trail restoration to stuffing envelopes. Visit www.cmc.org/volunteer for a complete listing.

Our Membership Services team can answer general questions every weekday at 303.279.3080, or by email at cmcoffice@cmc.org.

The Colorado Mountain Club thanks the Scientific and Cultural Facilities District and its citizens for their continuing support. www.scfd.org

The Colorado Mountain Club is a proud member of Community Shares of Colorado.

It PAYS to be a member! ▶ 40% off admission at the American Mountaineering Museum

▶ 20% off titles from The Mountaineers Books

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Not a member?

▶ 10% at Mountain Chalet, Colorado Springs ▶ 10% at The Trailhead, Buena Vista

▶ 10% at Rock'n and Jam'n, Thornton/Centennial Visit www.cmc.org/join Trail & Timberline

On the Outside Moonlight illuminates the desert landscape at Bisti Badlands, De-Na-Zin Wilderness, New Mexico. Jao van de Lagemaat

Trail & Timberline

Mission Accomplishments A Lifetime in the CMC By Brenda Porter, Member and Volunteer Engagement Director

John, Deac, Kris, and Ambrose near the Oberwalderhütte. Courtesy of John Wallack

ONE OF THE REASONS people become CMC Life Members is that it is a great deal—you pay one time and your membership lasts for the rest of your life! You don’t have to remember to renew every year. Plus, your membership keeps on working to provide meaningful, local connections between people who love the mountains. I caught up recently with some CMC Life Members to find out more about their reasons for “joining for life.” Several people said their active participation in CMC trips and activities ebbed and flowed throughout the years, with their families and careers taking priority at times, but they liked being able to still take part in activities when they wanted. Bob Olsen from the Boulder Group summed up many of the feelings expressed about life membership, saying, “I wanted to help and contribute to a meaningful local organization that has given me so much. The long-term friends I have made are the best thing about the CMC— interesting, honest, reliable people.” Jonathan Dunder, Denver Group, joined the CMC in 2012 and became a life member because, “I saw the CMC as an important organization that I wanted to support and be involved with for the long haul.” He echoed the wonderful people and experiences sentiment, saying, “It is a great way to meet people with similar interests and grow as a person through learning and adventure. Since joining the CMC, I have met a lot 8

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of interesting people and done things that I never would have imagined doing just several years ago, like climbing Mt. Ararat.” John and Kris Wallack said they were initially drawn to the CMC by the winter fun at the Brainard Cabin and the training provided in BMS. “As we met people who shared common interests, we realized it was a group we wanted to be part of on a longterm basis.” John shared a favorite memory of how supportive and interconnected he found people in the CMC. “In 1982, Kris and I decided we’d like to try a hiking trip in Austria. I mentioned this to a colleague, Deac Lancaster (who is now a 40+ year CMC Life Member), who suggested that we join the CMC and take Basic Mountaineering School. So we joined the Boulder Group and took BMS with Deac as an assistant instructor. We read Barbara Wegner’s ‘Alpen Wanderer 1983’ article in Trail & Timberline (T&T No. 782) about the Berchtesgaden area. The trip described in the article had been led by Gudy Gaskill, so we talked with Gudy and she loaned us Alpenverein maps and gave us advice. In 1984, after a couple of years of preparation, we went to the Alps with Deac—the first of many trips. We changed the character of the trip to include roped snow and glacier travel as well as a few peaks, thanks to our skills learned in BMS. In September 2014, we were again in Austria, hiking with our mountain buddy

Deac, who is now 75 and going strong. For a day outing, we trekked up to the Oberwalderhütte Alpine Centre. Although closed for the season, it made a great destination because it offered spectacular views of the Grossglockner, the highest mountain in Austria, with its new dusting of snow. There were only a handful of people enjoying the view. We sat in the sun and chatted as we ate our sandwiches. A woman from the Berchtesgaden area lit up when she heard we were from Colorado. She knew Robin, whose mother Gudy had made a trail in Colorado. Did we know her? Well, yes, Gudy Gaskill had helped us plan our first trip there 30 years before! These kinds of connections in the mountains say a lot about the CMC. It’s about people helping others get started. It’s about friendships and lifelong love of the mountains.” Karl Gustafson said the local character of the Boulder Group is the best thing about the CMC. He became a CMC member in 1950 because he was asked to be an instructor in the Rock Climbing School. Later, when family and career filled up his time, he was inactive in the CMC. When the CMC life membership became available, some friends suggested he become a life member so he could join in activities when he was able, and not have to bother with renewing annually. Judy King wrote, “I like the CMC because the people are avid outdoors hikers, adventurers, and preservationists at all levels. I became a life member because I knew that the CMC was something that I wanted to belong to the rest of my life. I always find friendship and common interests among the members. Hiker friends are not interested in what you do or your job, but how well you hike!” Summing up life membership in the CMC, Terry Hardie said, “It was a great deal 35 years ago and probably still is.” Terry is right—it is still a great deal! To get your life membership, call CMC membership services at 303-279-3080 ext. 2 and talk with Andrew or Roger today! △

2015 Year of the Mountaineer: A Call for Celebration By Jeff Golden, Communications & Digital Marketing Associate

THE ONLY THINGS SECURING us to the steep 5,000-foot north face of Washington’s Mt. Adams were four verticalpoint crampons, four ice-tool picks, and the will to go higher. “Can’t you get an ice screw in?” I shouted up to Sam, who was tethered to me about 30 feet above by a thin glacier rope. While he hacked at the brittle alpine ice to uncover a better placement, I had time to contemplate the painful slide into a bigmouth crevasse that waited if either of us lost purchase on the 60-degree ice of the Adams Glacier. What were we doing there? What was the point? Was the risk worth it? These are questions as old as climbing itself, and at that moment I sure didn’t have anything profound to add to the subject. My prevailing thought was I wanted to get the heck out of there so I could see my dog again. Trying to define the “Year of the Mountaineer," which began in September and will run through September 2015, is as difficult as answering the question of why we climb. Year of the Mountaineer is a celebration of ascents, of the brotherhood (and sisterhood) of the rope, of life in constant renewal, of beautiful wild places, and the spellbound explorers who venture into them. More tangibly, it’s a way to bring likeminded adventurers together through a series of CMC-sponsored hikes, climbs, speaker presentations, happy hours, and other events. Perhaps the simplest way to look at it is that Year of the Mountaineer emphasizes the “mountain” in Colorado

Mountain Club. Early CMC luminaries such as Albert Ellingwood, Eleanor Davis, and Carl Blaurock were the driving force behind many daring first ascents in the early 20th century. That tradition continues today, with CMC members scouring Colorado and the globe to pursue summits big and small. The men and women who have made their mark on more than 100 years of CMC mountaineering history should be celebrated, with the hope that their accomplishments will engage and motivate a new generation. The Year of the Mountaineer is not just for cutting-edge climbers. While the World Summit Series will take experienced alpinists to six of the Seven Summits, also offered are ascents of 100 ranked peaks in Rocky Mountain National Park, from mellow walk-ups to technical rock routes. The CMC is additionally teaming with RMNP to celebrate the Park’s Centennial year in 2015 with 100-mile hike packages. CMC members such as Carol Bennett are already enjoying Year of the Mountaineer hikes. She’s attended about a half dozen, including the kickoff event on Sept. 3 and a Sept. 30 excursion to Sand Beach Lake in RMNP. “It was a great hike, as are all of our hikes that celebrate the RMNP Centennial and Year of the Mountaineer,” Bennett said of the Sept. 30 trip. Sam and I were far from in the clear. The ice screw he’d placed was dubious, and we didn’t bother sinking another. A wordless glance was all that was needed to agree it was safer to climb fast than take the time to

fiddle with protection that was unlikely to hold a fall anyway. Back in motion, the fear retreated. The world narrowed to the alpine ice in front of my face, the rope linking me to Sam, and the thin line through seracs and crevasses that led to the safety of the summit snowfield. The glacier finally laid back after about 500 feet, landing us on gentler 35- to 40-degree slopes that allowed us to walk upright. The day was becoming blisteringly hot. Listening to gunshot-like retorts from the massive seracs above and tip-toeing across thin snow bridges reminded us that dangers still existed. The fear finally faded as we surpassed the final difficulties and tottered to the summit of Washington’s Mt. Adams, shaking hands and basking in the jubilation of success. We’d entered into that indefinable state of grace that draws mountaineers to the hills again and again, a curious mix of calm, camaraderie, and fulfillment—of having tested yourself completely and coming out on top. Of course, the views weren’t bad either. Why do we climb? The answer remains elusive. All I know is that I enjoy it, and thousands of other CMC members do, too. That’s worth celebrating together. What better time than 2015? △ For a full listing of Year of the Mountaineer events, visit www.cmc.org/ yearofthemountaineer.

LEFT: CMC members pose for a group photo during a Year of the Mountaineer/ Rocky Mountain National Park Centennial hike to Sand Beach Lake. Photo by Carol Bennett Right: Jeff Golden flies the Year of the Mountaineer flag on the summit of 13,266’ Marble Mountain. Photo by Jeff Golden

Trail & Timberline

CMC Rallies Members to Comment on Winter Landscape Rule By Julie Mach, Conservation Manager

NO ONE CAN DENY THE THRILL of carving that first turn in fresh powder or floating on snowshoes over an untouched trail. A footprint from an elusive fury critter is always a treat. But the tracks of other humans are not what most winter backcountry enthusiasts are looking for. Whether it’s the crisscrossed lines from hundreds of other skiers on your powder stash or the compacted tracks of a snowmobile on your favorite ski trail, it’s clear that recreation is increasing and impacting winter landscapes in Colorado. The time has come to work closely with land managers to ensure that we mitigate these issues before they worsen: for wildlife, for ecosystems, for climate change, and for our experience as users. On June 18 the US Forest Service released a draft rule amending how national forests throughout the country should manage winter motorized travel. The existing 2005 travel management rule requires forests to designate a system of routes and areas where motor vehicle use is allowed, and it prohibits motor vehicle use outside of the designated system (a “closed unless designated open” policy, complete with detailed Motor Vehicle Use Maps). But this rule only holds for summer motorized ve10

Trail & Timberline

and national groups on this issue to engage local users and submit public comments by the deadline of August 4. BSI received over 150 confirmations from users who commented on the Forest Service OSV draft rule and CMC submitted a comment letter with 16 sign-on organizations. Over 1,760 comments were posted online and an analysis by Winter Wildlands Alliance found that 1,238 (70%) reflected BSI’s talking points, 500 (28%) were categorized as “pro-snowmobile”, and the remaining 2% were uncategorized. Additionally, a number of environmental organizations including The Wilderness Society, Wild Earth Guardians, and the Center for Biological Diversity submitted over 17,000 bundled form letters. The Forest Service deadline to reFresh tracks. Photo by Pat Barrett lease the final rule was extended through January 31, 2015 to give hicles and currently exempts over-snow the agency additional time to finvehicles (OSVs) such as snowmobiles. In ish processing the 20,000 comments that fact, the White River National Forest is the they received on the draft rule. only forest in Colorado with a winter recBSI is looking ahead to prepare for acreation management plan in place—every- tion once the rule is released. The new rule where else, snowmobiles may travel on any should prompt local forests and ranger dislandscapes that are not designated as closed. tricts to begin a structured planning process Winter Wildlands Alliance took the issue to designate OSV use areas and they will be to court and received a favorable ruling that looking for local input and public comment prompted the Forest Service to begin the on what areas are appropriate for motorized revision process and hopefully close this and non-motorized use. BSI will work to loophole. assemble information on issues in your area The draft rule released in June is a first related to sensitive wildlife habitat, safety step in addressing travel issues on winter concerns, parking issues, and user conflicts landscapes and it states that each national to help inform land manager decisions as forest must designate appropriate trails and they begin designating areas. BSI has alareas for winter motorized use, but it does ready begun work with Winter Wildlands little to promote consistency across seasons Alliance and Outdoor Alliance Colorado or across forest boundaries. The draft rule to begin mapping winter backcountry recallows individual forests or ranger districts reation areas for use in this advocacy work. to implement an “open unless designated We’ll be calling on local experts like you closed” approach (the status quo) instead of to add to this data set in the coming months, requiring a “closed unless designated open” so be sure to sign up for BSI’s newsletter at approach (as is currently the case for summer www.cmc.org/bsi. You can also support off-road vehicle use). This would be confus- BSI’s efforts by joining the RogersMills ing for land managers to educate users about, Team at www.cmc.org/rogersmills, where and challenging for users adhere to. 100% of your contribution goes towards The CMC’s Backcountry Snowsports CMC’s Lands Department and the Initiative (BSI) worked closely with state conservation campaign you choose. △

A Community of Activists: Join the RogersMills Team By Heather MacSlarrow, Conservation Director

IT’S THE EXPANSE OF SPARKLING snow before you as you glide silently through the winter wildlands; the smell of sun-baked pine clinging to your shoulders as you walk through a thick carpet of wildflowers; the jagged peaks marching off below you as you gaze from atop a 14,000foot summit. This is the Colorado experience. And from its beginning, the Colorado Mountain Club has created, defined, and protected it. It began in 1912 with charter members Enos Mills and James Grafton Rogers. For Mills and Rogers, the Colorado outdoor experience represented a place where borders, differences, and the petty concerns of mankind melted away. It was these values that drove them to spend years advocating for the designation of Rocky Mountain National Park—an act that ensured the Colorado experience for generations to come. Today, CMC’s Lands Department continues the Rogers/Mills legacy by promoting quiet recreation, protecting wild lands, ensuring access, and engaging in stewardship. At the core of the Lands Department is the RogersMills Team.

RogersMills Team members make up a community of individuals from across the state that are dedicated to conserving the Colorado experience. For just $5 a month, members can attend four seasonal events and two gatherings free of charge (travel and incidentals not included). In addition, members choose which Lands Department initiative to direct their funds to. The RogersMills Team is open to CMC members and non-members. To purchase a membership, visit www.cmc.org/rogersmills. △ FALL: Wild and Scenic Film Festival, Golden.

WINTER: 10th Mountain Division Hut Trip, Summit County. SPRING: Sandhill Crane Viewing Tour, San Luis Valley.

SUMMER: Eco-Go Pack Supported Stewardship Trip, Continental Divide.

Meetings & Gatherings Come together with other RogersMills team members, Lands Department staff, and CMC Conservation Committees from across the state. Hear about the latest Lands projects and

Join us to take part in the RogersMills legacy.

lend your voice to drive the direction and prioritization of projects throughout Colorado. Stick around after the midday meeting for hiking, exploring, dinner, and a campfire. JUNE: Meeting & Gathering, Rifle Falls State Park, Rifle

OCTOBER: Meeting & Gathering, Sylvan Lake State Park, Eagle

Hiking in the Clouds: Evergreen Montessori’s Peak Experience By Holly Barrass, Youth Education Program Director

IT'S 4:30 AM AND THREE YEP instructors are sitting in a car, in the dark, listening to the pouring rain. We are at a trailhead waiting for a group of eighth graders to meet us to climb Grays Peak. The weather forecast calls for rain, fog, and snow. Psych in the car is low.

Every year, the Evergreen Montessori eighth grade class hikes Grays Peak with the CMC’s Youth Education Program (YEP). This is an example of the many recurring partnerships YEP has with schools, providing new experiences every year to get kids into the mountains. As the cars start to roll in to the parking lot, we muster some enthusiasm to step out into the rain and get the group ready to go. We do intros and safety briefings and then hit the trail. As daylight begins to brighten our surroundings we start to see beautiful peaks and ridges and it has actually stopped raining. The summit of Grays is still in the clouds, though. We hike up and up toward the clouds. The group is moving really fast and the weather is holding. We stop for a snack break at a big rock prow and look down on the valley below. It is sunny down there

and we are just on the edge of the fog. For the rest of the hike we are inside the clouds with snow swirling around and our belongings starting to freeze. We can’t see the summit so we just keep walking until we arrive all of a sudden at a big rock shelter. Our enjoyment of the summit is quick. A couple of pictures, a snack, and we are headed down again. For a brief moment the clouds clear and we can see the valley below: A cheer goes out from the kids who got see the view. We descend back through the fog until we are hiking in the sunshine and stripping off our summit layers. Back at the parking lot—in shorts and t-shirts—the kids share their thoughts on the experience. We hear comments such as: “I am proud of us for making it” and “I learned hiking can still be fun in the rain.” It was worth the cold, wet morning; as we drive away, psych in the car is high. △ Trail & Timberline

Around Colorado

Our groups across the State We Are the CMC! The Colorado Mountain Club is the state’s leading organization dedicated to adventure, recreation, conservation, and education. Founded in 1912, the CMC has helped Coloradoans enjoy the mountains for more than a century. The Club acts as a gateway to the outdoors for novices and experts alike, offering an array of year-round activities and events. The CMC’s sixteen local chapters host a variety of outdoor activities including hiking, backpacking, mountaineering, rock climbing, skiing, and many other outdoor activities. See cmc.org/Calendar for a current listing. Our chapters also include a group for people living outside the state (Friends of Colorado), a group for members 25 years and younger (Alpine Start), and a group for CMC mission supporters who don’t participate in CMC activities (Friends of the CMC).

South Broadway, Unit K, in Boulder, where they host new member meetings and programs. The Boulder Group operates the Brainard Cabin and Arestua Hut in the Arapaho-Roosevelt National Forest. The Boulder Group also publishes a free online trail map of the Brainard Lake Recreation Area.

Colorado Wilderness Families

Chair: Scott Burger chinadaddy@comcast.net Website: cmc.org/CoWildernessFamilies This group is for families who gather together to enjoy the outdoors safely. Activities are generally designed for the participation of the whole family—including babies to early teens—and include overnight camping or “cabining” hikes, wall climbs, and map and compass practices.

Denver Alpine Start Contact: Laurie Normandeau laurienormandeau@cmc.org Website: cmc.org/AlpineStart This group, for people 25 years old and younger, was developed to encourage membership in young adults. Thanks to generous donations from CMC members, we have recently hired a Young Adult Specialist to help jump-start trips and leadership development for young adults age 18–25. Young adults from all groups are encouraged to participate in Alpine Start trips and courses.

Aspen Contact: Carol Kurt kurtskarma@aol.com Website: cmc.org/Aspen Aspen Group members mainly live in the Roaring Fork Valley; however, some members live across the country and have special connections to Aspen. In addition to mountain recreation activities, Aspen hosts picnics, an annual banquet, and slide shows on winter evenings.

Boulder Chair (Acting): Andy Cook Andy_r_cooke@hotmail.com Website: CMC.org/Boulder The Boulder Group has a clubroom at 633

Trail & Timberline

Chair: David Hutchison dwhutchison3@gmail.com Website: cmc.org/Denver Newsletter: The Mile High Mountaineer The Denver Group is the largest CMC Group and holds most of its programs and school lectures at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden. Activities are scheduled almost every day of the week, including weekends and holidays. New member meetings—for new and prospective members—feature informative and interesting videos and briefings on hiking skills and trip policies, and are strongly recommended for all new members. For schedules and more information, visit cmc.org/Calendar. Denver also has groups of people who meet and recreate together around specific interests. Additional fees may apply for these special interest “sections.” • Rocky Mountain Over the Hill Gang: for 50+ year-olds • Trailblazers: for members in their 20s and 30s • Photo Section: for photography lovers • Fly Fishing: everything fly fishing

El Pueblo

holds several social and educational functions each year, including a potluck dinner and monthly meetings with entertaining guest speakers. The monthly meetings are held the first Friday of most months at 7:00 PM in the parish hall at Ascension Episcopal Church, located at 18th St. and Grand Ave. in Pueblo.

Friends of Colorado

Contact: Scott Otteman scotteman@aol.com Website: cmc.org/FriendsofColorado The Friends of Colorado Group was created in 1987 to support the many CMC members who live out of state but still want to take part in CMC activities when visiting Colorado. Friends of Colorado members receive all the benefits of being a CMC member; visit cmc.org/Join/MemberBenefits for a complete list of member benefits.

Friends of Routt Backcountry

Chair: Leslie Lovejoy leslie@lovejoygraphics.com Website: cmc.org/FriendsRB

Located in Steamboat Springs, this group was created by the CMC during our adoption of the Backcountry Snowsports Alliance. The Backcountry Snowsports Initiative supports non-motorized winter recreation through advocacy and on-the-ground efforts.

Fort Collins Chair: Don Carpenter dec5018@comcast.net Website: cmc.org/FtCollins The Fort Collins Group has members of all ages from Fort Collins, Loveland, Greeley and the surrounding communities. Fort Collins offers Young Adventurers Trips geared for members in their 20s and 30s. Fort Collins also hosts monthly programs, a winter potluck, a summer BBQ, and an Annual Dinner. Monthly programs feature a guest speaker who presents on a topic related to the outdoors or recreation.

Gore Range

Chair: Jill Mattoon jill.mattoon@judicial.state.co.us Website: cmc.org/ElPueblo

Chair: Colleen Widlak cwidlak@aol.com Website: cmc.org/GoreRange

The El Pueblo Group provides outdoor experiences for people in the “un-crowded” southern and southeastern parts of Colorado. El Pueblo

Many Gore Range Group members live in the shadow of the magnificent Gore Range in Summit and Eagle Counties. Members from as far

south as Salida and north to Kremmling and from out of state are also part of the group. A Gore Range Group newsletter is sent out twice a year, as well as periodic emails.

Longs Peak Chair: Mike Pippis mike.coloradoguy@gmail.com Website: cmc.org/LongsPeak The Longs Peak Group has members in Longmont, Lyons, Erie, Louisville, Mead, Niwot, and the surrounding area. Formed in 1963, and named for the majestic peak which dominates the western horizon, Longs Peak offers a range of outdoor activities throughout the state.

Pikes Peak Chair: Collin Powers powerscollin@yahoo.com Website: cmc.org/PikesPeak The Pikes Peak Group, located in Colorado Springs, offers a variety of outdoor activities, educational opportunities, and social events. Pikes Peak has two special “sections”: “SESI” is the section for singles and stands for “Singles Enjoying Similar Interests,” and “20/30-Something” is the Pikes Peak section for members in their 20s and 30s. Monthly meetings feature speaker presentations on regional activities, local history, and trips to exotic places. A potluck dinner is held in May; the Annual Dinner is held in November.

San Juan Chair: Laura Scull Scull_l@fortlewis.edu Website: cmc.org/SanJuan The San Juan Group provides outdoor experiences in southwestern Colorado and adjacent Utah and New Mexico. Meetings are held on the third Tuesday of September, November, January, March, and May. At each meeting, an hourlong presentation is usually given, followed by a business meeting.

Shining Mountains

Chair: Open Chair Emeritus: Madeline Framson Website: cmc.org/ShiningMountains The Shining Mountains Group serves CMC members in Estes Park, Loveland, Lyons, and the surrounding area. Rocky Mountain National Park benefits from the many volunteer stewardship projects sponsored by the group. “The Friendly Bunch,” organized to help singles of all ages get acquainted with each other, hosts a variety of activities; while most participants are single, all CMC members are welcome.

Western Slope Chair: Stanley Nunnally stanleynunnally@yahoo.com Website: cmc.org/WesternSlope The Western Slope Group has members throughout the Grand Junction area. Monthly meetings include educational speakers and environmental issue updates, as well as stories and tales from CMC trips. Meetings are held at 7:00 PM on the first Wednesday of each month (with no meeting in June, July, or August) at the Masonic Lodge, 2400 Consistory Court, in Grand Junction. The Canyon Call newsletter and periodic emails keep members informed of upcoming meetings, educational activities, adventures, Club trips, and local activities of interest.

Friends of the CMC

Members who support the mission of the CMC but don’t plan to take part in Club activities. This membership is perfect for people who are too busy to take part in trips and schools, but who strongly believe in CMC’s work in conservation and educating youth.

Get Involved in Your CMC

•There are many volunteer opportunities throughout the Club. All group activities are led by dedicated and skilled volunteers. Visit cmc. org/Volunteer for more information or contact your local group. •To ensure the continued enjoyment of Colorado’s pristine places, the CMC leads efforts to protect wild and public lands with its conservation and stewardship programs. cmc.org/ Conservation •The CMC’s Youth Education Program inspires confidence and academic achievement in youth through school programs, summer camps, afterschool programs, and young adult programs. cmc.org/Youth •The Club has published its quarterly magazine, Trail & Timberline, since 1918, and operates the CMC Press with more than 45 titles in print. cmc.org/Store •The American Mountaineering Museum celebrates the rich history of the mountains and mountaineering. mountaineeringmuseum.org

Photo by Alan Lipkin

Mountain Education

The CMC offers many educational opportunities through our regional groups. CMC courses appeal to people new to the outdoors as well as people looking for new ways to enjoy the mountains and expand their personal horizons. These affordable schools encourage individuals to improve their outdoor skill sets. CMC instructors are volunteers and members of the Club. They are experienced users of the outdoors who have polished their skills on Club trips and demonstrated their leadership abilities. Safety and personal responsibility, respect for the natural environment, and leadership skills are stressed in all courses. Students of all ages gain the skills and knowledge to comfortably participate in mountain trips. The larger CMC groups offer more than 61 schools and seminars. Smaller groups sometimes host instructors from other group schools for weekend seminars. Volunteer committees in the groups develop the curricula, so there are some variations between the group educational offerings. See cmc.org/education for a calendar of upcoming schools.

Boulder Group Winter Schools Area Telemark Clinic Backcountry Tele/AT Skiing Cross-country Skiing Ski Mountaineering Avalanche Clinics (Level 1 and Level 2) AIARE 1 Avalanche School Winter Camping

Denver Group Winter Schools Backcountry Ski Touring School Telemark School Ski Mountaineering School AIARE 1 Avalanche School Avalanche Terrain Avoidance Seminar Technical Climbing Classes Winter Camping School

Pikes Peak Group Winter Schools

Snowshoe Class Intro to Backcountry Skiing Advanced Backcountry Skiing Avalanche Clinics (Level 1 and Level 2) Basic Mountaineering School: Colorado Ice Climbing Technical Ice Climbing School Winter Wilderness Skills Hut to Hut Clinic

Trail & Timberline

Safety first Safety Tips for Desert Trekking and Canyoneering BY ERIC HUNTER

In 2013, the Pikes Peak Group of the Colorado Mountain Club released a new class, Desert Trekking and Canyoneering, to excellent reviews. The safety tips in this article are adapted from that course. There are four deserts in North America: the Chihuahuan Desert, on the border between Texas and Mexico; the Sonoran Desert, along southern Arizona and continuing into western Mexico and the Baja Peninsula; the Mojave Desert, between the Sonoran and Great Basin; and the Great Basin Desert, which is bordered by the Sierra Nevada Range on the west and the Rocky Mountains on the east. North American deserts are hot, dry, and have very wide spans between areas of human habitation. You can become very remote in deserts without leaving pavement. Key Risks of Going into the Desert: Weather, • Hyponatremia (electrolyte imbalance): This is easily resolved by eating salty snacks along with drinking water. Carrying an electroFlora, and Fauna • Weather can bring serious events such as sun exposure, wind, lightning, rain, and even snow. • Extended sun exposure causes water loss, sunburn, and eventually heat stroke. Avoidance is the best solution. • Wind adds to water loss and causes windburn. Again, use avoidance.

• Lightning is a particular concern due to the lack of tall vegetation, making it harder to avoid being the target of a strike.

• Rain is not often thought of as a threat due to the lack of rain in deserts. However, the few inches that are received often fall at once. Since the soils are so dry, much of the rain tends to flood quickly into any drainage, such as a slot canyon. • Snow is a concern because we often focus on the desert heat rather than protecting ourselves from the cold. • Desert flora is often sharp with barbed tips, which can contain toxins that irritate wounds or may be poisonous.

• Desert fauna, like flora, can be hazardous. Desert animals have to work hard to obtain and conserve sustenance and can be aggressive in protecting themselves, their offspring, and their resources. Some are even venomous.

lyte drink along with water can often remove this threat, but will cause your urine to be dark even when you are not dehydrated, so watch for this false symptom of dehydration

• Hypernatremia (dehydration): Reducing the loss of water from sweat and respiration is a better choice than finding water when long distances are required to get to water. Carry enough water for each person for each day planned in the desert, then bring extra. Plan ahead for where to find water.

Desert Gear

• The Ten Essentials are of course necessary.

• Hand lotion and lip balm help reduce the effects of wind and sun. Use those with a high SPF rating.

• Footwear should be light, cactus resistant, and able to drain well. Gore-Tex is not a good choice for desert footwear. • Clothing should be cotton or cotton blend to hold sweat longer for evaporative cooling to take effect, but socks should wick to prevent blisters. A bandana or dust mask is necessary to prevent sunburns from reflective light and reduce the impacts of wind (and can be used to soak up water from a small seep). The Kool Scarf is a great item to help reduce body temperature on long hot desert treks. Bring a thin, light raincoat.

Common Conditions Experienced by Desert Travelers: Hypothermia, Hyperthermia, Hypo- • Packs, sleeping pads, and shelters should all be dust and abrasion resistant, as they will get extra abuse from the environment. Putting natremia, and Hypernatremia • Hypothermia (losing body heat and becoming too cold): Huge temperature swings in the desert are often the culprit. Unlike dressing for mountain environments, it is necessary to wear cotton in the desert to allow sweat to evaporate and cool your body during the day, but to wear wool and synthetic materials in the evening and on cool days to keep from getting cold. • Hyperthermia (gaining body heat and becoming too hot): Cool clammy skin, red skin, no longer sweating, dizziness, and nausea are often symptoms. Resting in the shade, drinking cool (not cold) water slowly, and wetting down clothes often helps. 14

Trail & Timberline

a closed cell foam pad under your air pad will prevent cactus thorn pokes.

• Your first aid kit should include a small comb and tweezers. A comb is very useful in getting behind a cholla cactus branch to remove it from your skin. Since cactus thorns are barbed, tweezers will be needed to remove them; for miniature ones, duct tape works well. Chemical ice packs aid with sprains, strains, bites, stings, etc. resistant, as they will get extra abuse from the environment. Putting a closed cell foam pad under your air pad will prevent cactus thorn pokes.

Left: The team working down Bell Canyon, Utah. Photo by David Cole. Center: Eric (canyon name “Dipstick”) checking for pool depth before finding a bypass, Little Wildhorse, Utah. Photo by Brian Delaney. Right: Spotting the team back up Crack Canyon, Utah. Photo by Laneha Everett

• Your first aid kit should include a small comb and tweezers. A comb is very useful in getting behind a cholla cactus branch to remove it from your skin. Since cactus thorns are barbed, tweezers will be needed to remove them; for miniature ones, duct tape works well. Chemical ice packs aid with sprains, strains, bites, stings, etc. • In addition to using a bandana to procure water, a straw and a pocket bucket are also great aids. The straw can be used to divert water from a seep and the bucket can be used to gather turbid water to allow silt to settle out.

cooler, it is better to drink the melt water from cooler ice.

• Survival: Find or make shade rather than exposing yourself to sunlight. Stay with your vehicle; it is a large target for a searcher. However, don’t stay inside your vehicle during the day, as it will become an oven. Avoid obvious flood areas when stopping for the day or night. Luckily, in the desert, navigation includes line of sight, so utilize it. As always, leave an itinerary with someone responsible and be responsible enough to stick to it.

Key Risks of Going into the Desert: Weather, Canyoneering Challenges Canyoneering includes basic hiking, walking on loose sand, stemFlora, and Fauna • Finding water: Look for bugs and birds, which are more abundant around water sources. Bright, broad-leafed plants requiring more water grow in creek beds. Groundwater and trapped water can be found after a rain, often many days later. Forget barrel cactus, transpiration bags, and solar stills, as they require too much effort for little return.

• Managing water: Don’t waste perspiration and respiration by overexerting in the heat of the day. Perform tasks at dawn or dusk, or at night if there is enough light. If you don’t have water, don’t eat, as eating requires water for digestion, and avoid caffeine and alcohol, which are diuretics. If you only have soda and beer left in the

ming, squeezing, sliding, jumping, wading, swimming, scrambling, rappelling, and rigging and retrieving anchors. Canyons are rated from very easy to very difficult. A common challenge found even in easier canyons is scrambling with minimal to moderate exposure. Knowing how to climb and how to spot your partner properly are key skills. Know when to rig a rappel instead of scrambling. Specific knowledge and skills are required to safely navigate deserts and for canyoneering. Travel with others with existing skills, and strive to learn rather than just being led. Enjoy your quests in the desert canyons of the southwest! △

The next Introduction to Desert Trekking and Canyoneering will be scheduled in September 2015. Although not a technical canyoneering course, the field trips go through some canyons requiring extensive scrambling skills as well as stemming, wading, and walking through loose sand in the heat of the desert. Suggested resources to get you started are: ● Grubbs, Bruce. Desert Sense: Camping, Hiking, Biking in Hot, Dry Climates. Mountaineers Books, 2005. ● Nester, Tony. Desert Survival Tips, Tricks, & Skills. Diamond Creek Press, 2003. ● Black, David. Canyoneering: A Guide to Techniques For Wet And Dry Canyons. Globe Pequot Press, 2013. ● There are also many guidebooks to the canyons of the southwest.

Trail & Timberline

Hiking the Canyon Country of Utah and Colorado

The impressive and colorful Bryce Canyon. Photo by Rod Martinez

hen you hear the word “canyon” you probably think of the Grand Canyon. The Grand Canyon is 277 river miles long, 18 miles wide, and up to 5,280 feet deep; it has earned its name. Zion and Bryce Canyons are two other very impressive and photogenic canyons located relatively close to our Colorado home. Although not as well known, Colorado and southeast Utah have an abundance of other canyons to explore, hike, and photograph. Western Colorado On the outskirts of Grand Junction you should take the time and effort to hike the canyons of the Colorado National Monument. The Monument Canyon and Ute Canyon Trails, as described in The Best Grand Junction Hikes pack guide published by CMC Press, will take you into the heart of the Colorado National Monument. The trails descend 1,440 and 1,640 feet,

Trail & Timberline

respectively, to the lower trailheads at the base of the canyon. Along the trails you will pass by large red rock spires that make for interesting views. Located to the southwest of the Colorado National Monument is McInnis Canyons, a national conservation area. The purpose of a national conservation area is to preserve, protect, and restore some of America’s most spectacular landscapes. The Black Ridge Canyons Wilderness Area, which is 75,580 acres of the 122,300 total acreage of the McInnis National Conservation Area, has trails into Mees, Knowles, and Jones Canyons. The trails into Devil’s, Flume, and Rattlesnake Canyons are also described in the The Best Grand Junction Hikes pack guide. Rattlesnake Canyon is truly incredible and very photogenic. The hike is a difficult to strenuous 14.2-mile walk with an elevation gain of 2,500 feet. There are nine natural arches in Rattlesnake Canyon, the largest concentration of

arches in North America outside of Arches National Park. Black Canyon and Dominquez Canyon—also described in The Best Grand Junction Hikes pack guide—are hikes that will take you into two distinct Colorado canyons. Dominquez Canyon, located about 17 miles south of Grand Junction, is a 66,280-acre wilderness area located in the heart of the 210,012-acre DominquezEscalante National Conservation Area. The Dominquez Canyon Trail is 9.0 miles round-trip with minimal elevation gain. The scenery is spectacular as the trail follows the ever-flowing Little Dominquez Creek. Keep a lookout for desert bighorn sheep—you may spot them grazing at the base of the sandstone cliffs. The scenery and potential of seeing bighorn sheep are topped by the numerous rock art sites along the canyon walls and large boulders along the trail. The first petroglyphs are seen on a large rock about 3.4 miles into

By Rod Martinez

the hike. A greater concentration of petroglyphs is found on other rocks fifty yards further down the trail. Only history knows if this was a permanent tribal location or an area used only parts of the year by the Ancient Ones. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison is the only canyon in North America that combines a narrow opening, sheer walls, and startling depths to give its visitors a unique and awesome canyon landscape. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park protects 14 miles of the gorge carved by the Gunnison River. The swift and turbulent Gunnison River continues to carve its way through the sheer walls of dark gray stone some 2,700 feet below the cliff edge. In places, the canyon is deeper than it is wide. Because it is so narrow the sunlight penetrates to the bottom of the canyon only at midday. When sunlight allows you to view the full depth of the canyon, you can see how an “artist” has

painted the canyon walls in different colors with light and dark colored rock. Within the boundaries of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park there are no maintained or marked trails into the inner gorge. A ranger told me that the routes into the gorge are difficult to follow, extremely steep, and hazardous because of the loose rock. The ranger also advised that hikers be in excellent shape, able to find their own route, and prepared for self-rescue. Although it is strongly not recommended to hike to the bottom of the Black Canyon in the national park, you can do so in the Gunnison Gorge National Recreation Area. The four trails to the Gunnison River rank from moderately difficult to difficult:

• Bobcat Trail: Difficult, 3.0 miles round-trip, 800 feet elevation change, and undeveloped. The trail is hard to fol-

low and has a steep descent down a rock face for the last 0.5 miles.

• Chukar Trail: Moderate to difficult, 2.2 miles round-trip with a 560-foot elevation change. • Duncan Trail: Difficult, 3.0 miles round-trip, 840-foot elevation change, and the last half mile is steep with loose scree. • Ute Trail: Moderately difficult, 9.0 miles round-trip, 1,200-foot elevation change, a well-developed trail with a gradual slope.

There are numerous trails on the South Rim of the Black Canyon in the national park. These trails range from the easy 2.0-mile round-trip Uplands Trail to the 2.0-mile round-trip strenuous Oak Flat Loop Trail. The Rim Rock, Warner Point, and Oak Flat Loop Trails will give you tremendous views of the Black Canyon. Trail & Timberline

The North Rim of the Black Canyon is an additional three to four hour drive from the South Rim. The North Rim is sparsely visited, and the road access is dirt, but the North Rim offers equally beautiful views. Trails on the North Rim range from the easy 0.3-mile Chasm View Nature Trail to the 3.0-mile round-trip North Vista Trail. Dinosaur National Monument Dinosaur National Monument, in northwest Colorado on the Utah state line, is well known for its paleontology site at the Utah visitor center north of Jensen, Utah. The quarry has around 1,500 dinosaur bones exposed on a cliff wall for the general public to view from a safe distance. The bones are the main draw, but equally impressive is the 210,000 acres of rugged, beautiful, and colorful country. Around 95 percent of the monument is currently managed as a wilderness study area. Two great rivers, the Green and Yampa, converge and wind their way around Steamboat Rock at Echo Park. My friends Bill and Martha Mitchem, 60-year residents of Rangely, Colorado, affectionately refer to this area as the “Center of the Universe.” To get there from the Canyon Visitor Center in Colorado, drive 25 miles north and take a right on the Echo Park Road. The dirt road drops 1,000 feet in 8 miles to Echo Park. Please note this road is impassable if wet. Once in the bottom of the canyon, where the rivers converge, hike along the waters edge and admire the 1,000-foot Steamboat Rock. Steamboat Rock is a sandstone island between the green colored Green River and the brown waters of the Yampa River. The Harpers Corner Road continues past the Echo Park Road for another 7.0 miles where the road ends at Harpers Corner. Be sure to stop and enjoy the views of the canyons from the Island Park and Echo Park viewpoints. Notice how dominant but small Steamboat Rock looks from this distance. Harpers Corner Trail is a moderate 3.0-mile round-trip hike with minimal elevation gain. The overlook at the end of the trail provides sweeping views of the canyons of the Green River 2,500 feet below. Other trails in the monument are relatively short and easy to hike. The views of the canyons and different geology will make the time spent worthwhile. To get different and more extensive views of the canyons and rivers, consider driving the Yampa Bench Road. The Gates 18

Trail & Timberline

of Lodore Road, 10 miles of dirt road from Hwy 318, ends at The Gates of Lodore. This is where it appears that the Green River is swallowed by a pair of cliffs that seem to rise out of nowhere, as if they were gates. The 18-mile-long gravel Island Park Road will give access to many petroglyph panels and more great views of the Green River. Eleven miles from the beginning of the Island Park Road is one of the most outstanding Fremont petroglyph panels in the area. If you have the time, another fascinating and adventurous way to explore the canyons of the Green and Yampa Rivers is to take a rafting trip. Southeast Utah If rock art, petroglyphs, and pictographs are your interest, then Nine Mile Canyon is a must-see area. The canyon is located eight miles east of Price, Utah on Highway 6/191, where you will turn north on 2200 East (Soldier Creek Road, at the Walkers Food and Fuel Chevron Station). The canyon is 40 miles long, not nine miles, as it is named. Nine Mile Canyon is promoted as “North America’s longest art gallery.” There are an estimated 1,000 rock art sites with a combined single image count of over 10,000. There is little question for the archeologist that this is the largest concentration of petroglyphs and pictographs in North America. Research has also identified hundreds of pit-houses, rock shelters, and granaries. In 2009, 63 sites in the canyon were added to the National Register of Historic Places, with another 164 added in 2012. The Bureau of Land Management has announced plans to nominate some 600 more in years to come. The biggest danger to the sites is the dust caused by heavy truck traffic, which clings to the rock art sites. In 2004 Nine Mile Canyon was added to the National Trust for Historic Preservation’s list of America’s Most Endangered Places. This is a marvelous area to visit for ancient history. Hiking opportunities are minimal, but photographic opportunities are optimal. The hiking opportunities in Utah’s southeast quadrant are endless. This part of Utah, with the closest access to Colorado, has two national parks, two national monuments, and two wilderness areas. All of these areas have trails that range in difficulty from easy to strenuous and are 0.5 miles to over 20 miles long. In the soon to be published The Best

Moab and Arches National Park Hikes pack guide, I describe numerous hikes into canyons in the Moab area. Mill Creek Canyon Trail is a fun and refreshing hike along and through Mill Creek on the southeast outskirts of Moab. Hunter Canyon, slightly west of Moab, will take you by another stream where you can view a large arch on the west canyon rim. Negro Bill Canyon, approximately 3.0 miles east and north of Moab, has a terrific trail that follows a stream to the world’s sixth largest natural bridge, Morning Glory Natural Bridge. Another hike described in The Best Moab and Arches National Park Hikes is Horseshoe Canyon. This trail, located about 40 miles south of Green River, Utah, is 6.5 miles round-trip and drops 780 feet into Horseshoe Canyon. The canyon has tall sandstone walls and an abundance of wildflowers in early spring. Horseshoe Canyon is home to some of the most significant rock art in North America, including “The Great Gallery.” Canyonlands National Park is 337,598 acres of immense, long, deep, and very colorful canyons. The park preserves arches, buttes, spires, and mesas, as well as the canyons of the high desert of southeast Utah. When you study a map of Canyonlands it appears that the park is one large area, but it is actually divided into four districts by the Colorado and Green Rivers. (The rivers constitute a separate district.) The Maze District offers some of the most distinct and remote areas in the nation with names that catch your attention: The Doll House, Ernie’s Country, The Land of The Standing Rocks, the Fins, and Chocolate Drops. The area is very remote and access is only for the hardiest of hikers and most experienced four-wheel-drive vehicle aficionados. The only designated trail in the Maze District is the trail leading to the Maze Overlook and the South Fork Horse Canyon and it is hardly a trail at all. This trail requires you to be an experienced hiker with the ability to lift and lower packs on very exposed and steep sections of slickrock. In my newest CMC Press pack guide, The Best Canyonlands National Park Hikes, to be published in the fall of 2015, I will take you on twenty different hikes into the third and fourth districts, the Needles District and Island in the Sky District. These hikes range from the easy Mesa Arch Trail and Grand View Overlook Trail to the more difficult 6.0-mile round-trip Goose-

berry Trail. The elevation loss and gain is about 1,300 feet in 3.0 miles over a total hike of 6.0 miles. In all cases you will have outstanding views of the deep canyons carved by the Colorado and Green Rivers. The Needles District is the “hiker” district. It has over 55 miles of trails, many of them established loop trails, which will give you different views into and out of the hiking areas. The hikes in the pack guide range from the moderately easy 2.4-mile Slickrock Foot Trail to the 11.0-mile round-trip difficult Confluence Overlook

Trail. Here you are given a tremendous view of the spot where the Green and Colorado Rivers join together. One of my favorite—but more difficult hikes—is to Druid Arch. The 5.5-mile one-way hike ends at a canyon where the 100-foot high Druid Arch stands tall at the head of Elephant Canyon. Canyonlands is 337,570 acres and 100 square miles of fins, mesas, buttes, and serpentine canyons. Each year nearly 500,000 visitors enter Canyonlands—which makes this the least visited National Park in

Top Left: Steamboat Rock at “The Center of the Universe,” Dinosaur National Monument. Top Right: Across the Colorado River is Island in the Sky District of Canyonlands National Park as seen from Dead Horse Point State Park near Moab, Utah. Bottom Left: Eye Arch, one of nine arches in Rattlesnake Canyon. Bottom Right: The Green River flows to Utah from Dinosaur National Monument. Photos by Rod Martinez.

Utah—but a lot fewer than 500,000 people hike the trails to really experience the canyons of Canyonlands. Take a hike and get out and enjoy the canyons of Colorado and southeast Utah! △ Trail & Timberline

Pathfinder

◉

The Best Front Range Trail Runs:

Running Year-round in Colorado’s Front Range By Peter N. Jones

The upper canyon as seen from the Rimrock Trail. Photo by Peter N. Jones

t all started about a year and half ago, when my dad, a CMC past president, forwarded me an email from thenCMC Press editor Christian Green, who was looking for people to help with a new book on trail running along Colorado’s Front Range. Having been a long-time trail runner and growing up in Boulder, I contacted Christian and offered my services. After some communications and discussions, I was given the lead on the project and eagerly set about running, writing, and photographing what I believed were some of the best trails for running along the Front Range. Fast forward to today, and I am thrilled to finally see this project come to fruition with the publication of The Best Front Range Trail Runs, scheduled to hit bookstores in mid-December. Although I had grown up running and hiking most of the trails between Fort Collins and Colorado Springs, running with the purpose of writing about the trails brought new insights and discoveries. From running the smooth and stunningly beautiful Blue Sky and Indian Summer 20

Trail & Timberline

Trails outside of Fort Collins on a crystal clear winter day, to the familiar but always exhilarating Bear Peak West Ridge Trail near Boulder, running these trails with a mind to writing about them brought new appreciation. Likewise, carrying a camera for on-trail photographs helped me see new features and aspects of the trails and surrounding environments, such as the splendid fall colors of the aspens found on the upper section of Apex Trail outside of Golden, or the cool clouds and mist of a long run up the Barr Trail and Pikes Peak near Colorado Springs. Not only does The Best Front Range Trail Runs include fifty trails—along with mileage, elevation gain, trail descriptions, maps, and color photographs—but it also includes short anecdotes, quotes, and contributions from many local runners. These add flavor and variety to the guide, and give an insider’s view into why others consider the trails along the Front Range to be some of the best in the country for running. The trails included in the book range from flat and fast trails found along the

eastern edge of the Front Range, where smooth dirt paths wind through tallgrass and prairie environments, to steep and semi-technical trails that climb sharply up along the varied and topographically interesting hills of the Front Range. In all, the book includes something for everyone— from runners who are just becoming interested in taking their training onto the trails to those who have been running trails for many years, but who are seeking out some new experiences and places to run that are within a short distance of home. I’m honored to have been able to bring this project to fruition. Working with CMC Press on this project has been a delight—not only has it opened up many new adventures and trail runs for me, but I am confident that it will prove to be a valuable book for others who are seeking to run and explore the many beautiful trails we are blessed with along Colorado’s Front Range. Here is an excerpt from the book—two of my favorites, which can often be run in winter. Enjoy! △

One of the many excellent views along the Talon loop. Photo by Peter N. Jones

Near the overlook area on the Talon Trail at Cheyenne Mountain State Park. Photo by Peter N. Jones

Castlewood Canyon Loop (Denver Area) Round-Trip Time

1 hourâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1Â˝ hours

just inside the Westside park entrance on the left (east) side.

Round-Trip Distance

6.9 miles

Start and End Elevation

6,300 feet (Homestead Trailhead)

Total Elevation Gain

828 feet

Effort Level

Easy to moderate

The Run: This is a fairly easy loop run that traverses Castlewood Canyon, first on the west side and then on the east side, allowing runners to experience the varied ecosystems and terrain found throughout Castlewood Canyon State Park. The loop can be run in either direction, but the clockwise direction is described here.

Possible Workout Type

Tempo run, fartleks, speed work, recovery run

Best Time to Run

All year; summer can be hot and snow may be present in winter

Support or Water Points

None

Runability 100% Type of Run

Loop

Parking

$7 day pass

Nearest Landmark

City of Castle Rock

Rules and Regulations

Dogs must be leashed at all times

More Information

Visit the State Parks website: http://www.parks.state.co.us/Parks/ CastlewoodCanyon/

Comment: This loop run takes runners through the majority of Castlewood Canyon State Park, providing views down into the canyon formed by Cherry Creek. It also traverses the canyon rim through a variety of environments and ecosystems. Getting There: This run begins and ends near the Lucas Homestead Historic Site, located just inside the Westside entrance to the park. To reach the Westside entrance of Castlewood Canyon State Park, take I-25 to Castle Rock and exit onto Founders Parkway eastbound. Take Founders Parkway (5th Street) to Highway 86; continue east on Highway 86 until you reach Castlewood Canyon Road (County Road 51). Turn right (south) onto Castlewood Canyon Road and follow it to the Westside park entrance. The loop run and parking area are located

From the parking area, head west on the Homestead Trail up a small hill to the beginning of the canyon. Although not deep, the rocky cliffs and boulders provide interesting scenery as you make your way into the canyon. After 0.35 miles the Homestead Trail ends at the junction with the Creek Bottom and Rimrock Trails; turn right onto the Creek Bottom Trail as it follows the meandering Cherry Creek. After following Cherry Creek and running over a few small rolling climbs, the Creek Bottom Trail passes by a small waterfall (mile 1.25) before continuing along the edge of Cherry Creek for another 0.75 miles. At the two-mile mark, the Creek Bottom Trail ends; continue along the edge of the creek on the Dam Trail and pass by the old Castlewood Dam ruins after another 0.35 miles. At the end of the Dam Trail, turn onto the Inner Canyon Trail (mile 2.35) and follow it along the edge of the creek until you reach the turnoff for the Lake Gulch Trail. Turn onto the Lake Gulch Trail as it moves away from the creek and begins a gentle climb up onto the flat canyon rim. After a short bit, the Lake Gulch Trail ends and turns into the Canyon View Nature Trail (mile 3.2). Turn left onto the Canyon View Nature Trail and head back toward the canyon rim, where you will encounter the Inner Canyon Trail. Turn onto the Inner Canyon Trail (mile 3.4) as it quickly drops back down to the canyon floor and crosses Cherry Creek before turning and following the creek on the east side. The Inner Canyon Trail stays on the east side of Cherry Creek for one mile before terminating at the junction with the Dam Trail and the Rimrock Trail (mile 4.4). Turn onto the Rimrock Trail as it climbs back out of the canyon onto the eastern rim, where the trail runs north along the edge of the canyon for 1.8 miles before once again dropping down to the creek (mile 6.2). After a quick descent, the Rimrock Trail ends back at the junction of the Homestead Trail and the Creek Bottom Trail. Cross the creek and turn onto the Homestead Trail as you make your way back to the trailhead and the starting point of the loop (mile 6.9).

Trail & Timberline

Talon Loop–Cheyenne Mountain (Colorado Springs Area) Round-Trip Time

1 hour–2 hours

Round-Trip Distance

7.1 miles

Start and End Elevation

5,050 feet (Talon Trailhead)

Total Elevation Gain

914 feet

Effort Level Moderate Possible Workout Type Tempo run, fartleks, recovery run Best Time to Run All year; summer can be hot and snow may be present in winter Support or Water Points Water available at the visitor center Runability 100% Type of Run

From the overlook you will have a good vantage of the trails you just ran as well as the rest of Cheyenne Mountain State Park. From the overlook, which is near the highpoint of the run at mile 3, the North Talon Trail begins to descend back down before turning and winding south to the junction of the Talon Trail and the South Talon Trail (mile 3.6). Turn south onto the South Talon Trail. You will pass by an interesting rock formation as the South Talon Trail gently rolls along south before it turns and heads north through lush vegetation and thick forest. At mile 4.6 the South Talon Trail ends at a junction with the Talon Trail; turn right (east) and begin the fun and fast descent back to the Talon Trail. Run past the junction with the North Talon Trail (mile 4.85) and cruise down the final 2.25 miles back to the parking area. If you are interested in extending your run, there are many options within Cheyenne Mountain State Park, including the Blackmer Loop, which passes through great pines and interesting rock gardens.

Lollipop loop

Parking $7 day pass Nearest Landmark

City of Colorado Springs

Rules and Regulations

Dogs not allowed.

More Information Visit the Cheyenne Mountain State Park website: http:// www.parks.state.co.us/Parks/ CheyenneMountain/Pages/ CheyenneMountainHome.

232 pages, 6 x 9, 110 color photos, 54 maps, paperbound, rounded corners, $24.95, ISBN 978-1-93705210-2 GUIDEBOOK/COLORADO AVAILABLE IN MID-DECEMBER

Comment: This run showcases some of the best scenery found at Cheyenne Mountain State Park, starting in the open prairie before traversing through scrub oak and climbing up into more montane forest. The run takes one past a dramatic overlook that provides excellent views to the east before dropping back down through lush vegetation and passing a large sandstone feature. Getting There: This run begins just south of Colorado Springs, and is located inside Cheyenne Mountain State Park. From I-25 head south until you reach exit #135, which is South Academy. Turn onto South Academy and head west, past Pikes Peak Community College. When you reach Highway 115, also called Vietnam Veterans Memorial Highway, turn left (south) and continue on Highway 115 for 1.9 miles until you reach JL Ranch Heights Road. Turn right (west) onto JL Ranch Heights Road and follow it to the park entrance. Shortly after you enter the park and pass the visitor center, turn left (south) into the large Limekiln Trailhead parking area. The run starts on the Talon Trail, which begins from the southwest side of the parking area. The Run: This lollipop run starts off gently as it winds through open prairie before climbing up through the forests on Cheyenne Mountain’s eastern slopes to a fabulous overlook. From the large parking area, start by running on the Talon Trail as it heads west through open grasslands and prairie. The initial 0.13 miles of the trail is shared with the Zook Loop Trail; then the Talon Trail branches off and continues through the open grassland. Continue on the Talon Trail past the junction with the Little Bear Trail at mile 0.3 and the junction with the Turkey Trot Trail at mile 0.5. From here, the Talon Trail begins to climb a bit more as it winds through intermittent scrub oak and grasslands along the edge of a small seasonal creek. After a short bit, the Talon Trail crosses the Sundance Trail (mile 1.2) before continuing the climb up the eastern slopes of Cheyenne Mountain. The trail climbs through scrub oak and pine forests and reaches a junction with the North Talon Trail at mile 2.19. Turn right onto the North Talon Trail and continue climbing, now more steeply, as the trail winds and climbs via a series of tight switchbacks up to an overlook providing amazing views to the east.

Trail & Timberline

Remnants of the old dam can be seen on the Creek Bottom Trail. Photo by Peter N. Jones

Right: Large boulders can be found along the Inner Canyon Trail in Castlewood Canyon State Park. Photo by Peter N. Jones

Trail & Timberline

Learning to Ski After Age 60 By Janice Bennett

Skiers on the Outback Chairlift, Keystone Ski Area, Colorado. Photo by John Kieffer

f you think you can do it, you can.” This popular maxim from John Burroughs, a 19th-century naturalist in the U.S. conservation movement, forms the basis of the American dream. I began hiking with the Colorado Mountain Club at age 59, hoping that the exercise would relieve stress. I hiked many easier trails, went snowshoeing, and even finished Wilderness Trekking School. Nevertheless, I grew up being told that I was not athletic. So when Lynn, a friend who is a Swiss-trained expert skier, urged me to take up downhill skiing two years later, I really didn’t believe I could, especially at my age. In WTS I learned about avalanches, which bury many skiers in the Rockies every year. Wilderness First Aid taught me that hypothermia is a life-threatening condition that occurs when the body temperature drops below normal. I knew how to dress for cold weather and survived WTS Snow Day at St. Mary’s Glacier, in spite of eight hours spent outdoors in more than two feet of fresh snow, accompanied by 40-60 mph winds. Mastering the terms of “skiology,” however, was a daunting 24

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proposition. Angulation, for example, involves arcing the body at the hip, knee, and ankle joints to achieve a high degree of ski edge. Flex adjustment involves changing the amount of resistance to the forward movement of the ankle. The thought of traversing on crud or struggling with problems like prerelease, which occurs when the skis come off earlier than expected, terrified me. I was certain I would hit a tree, fly through the air, and break all my bones. Lynn related stories of 90-year-olds he had encountered on ski slopes, one wearing an oxygen mask. His acquaintances included 80-year-old twins who took up skiing for the first time at age 65. Although they weren’t the fastest skiers, as he described their graceful, dancing form and taut bodies, I began to think skiing at my age might actually be possible. An Internet ski blog reassured me that learning to ski is great at any age. “We’re never too mature to increase our level of physi-

Skis at Belle’s Camp in Blue Sky Basin, Vail Ski Area, Colorado. Photo by John Kieffer

cal activity,” asserted Lynne Stainbrook, a French ski instructor. “It’s our prime time. We’re still very much alive and eager to enjoy the mountains, the moment and ourselves. As we get older, we understand our capabilities and limitations and set our own personal, realistic goals. We don’t measure our personal worth by speed of descent, hang back recoveries, or number of vertical meters logged.” Skiing builds coordination, he said, as well as strength and fitness. Physical activity has beneficial effects on the heart and blood vessels. Increased coordination transports antioxidants and nutrients to joints, muscles, and bones, reducing stiffness, aches, and pains. Enhanced circulation builds a more robust immune system, increasing heart muscle mass and elasticity, resulting in fewer colds and flu, less heart disease, cancer, stroke, diabetes, and lower back problems. During skiing the body releases endorphins, opiate-like substances produced naturally by the body, which relieve stress and produce a natural energy boost. Skiing improves overall fitness, creates a positive emotional state, reduces pain, increases flexibility, and helps one sleep soundly. “So, seniors, get out of the armchair and onto the chairlift,” the instructor advised. I found several websites that explain ski maneuvers, complete with illustrations and 3D animated videos. I decided to familiarize myself with the most common techniques, such as longitudinal weight distribution. This means that because most control

Skiers and snowboarders at the top of Arapahoe Basin Ski Area, Colorado. Photo by John Kieffer

comes from the edges of the skis, the body’s weight needs to be in the middle of the ski in order to push the edges into the snow evenly. The bindings are set back from the middle, however, making it necessary to lean forward, which also pushes the toe back from the end of the boot. If the weight is too far back, the front of the skis will not push into the snow and can even come into the air altogether. “Lean forward” was all I really needed to remember. As I studied the websites, I realized that skiing cannot be learned in a day. Reading about techniques like snow plough turns, parallel turns, pole planting, flat lining, stem turns, carving, sliding sideways, and mogul skiing—even with diagrams—would never substitute for learning on the slopes. Even the simplest maneuvers, like putting on skis and taking them off, or getting on a chairlift, involve techniques best learned with an instructor. My first day of skiing was at A-Basin, which has three learning areas, two with magic carpets and another with a chairlift. I headed for the chairlift, the most difficult of the three, because I didn’t even see the other two. Terrified, I slid up to the lift and let two or three chairs pass by. Getting on was hard enough, but dismounting was much worse and I promptly fell. Beginners were scattered all over the hill like dominoes. I started sliding a few times but, without knowing how to stop, I was out of control. I heard Lynn, my friend and teacher, yell, “Fall!” a few times, so I tumbled into the snow. I was so discouraged that I quit for the day. The following week I discovered the easiest bunny slope, equipped with a small magic carpet. I felt a little silly skiing in the “Pica” area with two- to four-year-old children, but mastered it Trail & Timberline

Top Left: Falling by the chairlift at Arapahoe Basin. Top Right and bottom Left: Skiing the “Pica” area at Arapahoe Basin. Photos by Lynn Baird. Bottom Right: Saffron Bennett-Spurlock and Scott Bennett ride the chairlift at Loveland Ski Area, providing inspiration to persevere at a time when I most wanted to give up. Photo by Scott Bennett.

easily. On this slope, it was impossible to pick up any speed and I never fell once. Although rather embarrassing, it gave me a sense of balance and control. I rode up the magic carpet over and over again, bored, but as happy as a child. On the third trip, the ski area was packed with skiers after Christmas and the temperature was only four degrees. At the steeper magic carpet area, the conveyor belt was covered with a light snow, which made me slip backwards as I started up. I felt terrified at the top and attempted a few runs. I managed to stay on my skis by keeping my weight forward, but my hands were soon freezing so I headed for the lodge. The fourth day was fairly balmy, around 26 degrees. I did a few runs on the “Pica” slope, and then went to the more difficult magic carpet and made my way down the slope before attempting the chairlift again. This time I was elated that I didn’t fall getting off the chair. I did an extremely short run that ended at the side of the slope because I couldn’t make the turn. I had to take off my skis because I kept sliding backwards and couldn’t get them back on without falling. With my legs twisted in unnatural positions, the beginner slope suddenly looked incredibly steep and I panicked. Another woman, much younger than I, was fumbling around in the snow, going nowhere. At least I wasn’t alone. I finally began to work my way down the hill, skis in hand. A sympathetic staff worker offered to carry my skis, as I complained 26

Trail & Timberline

that I didn’t know what I was doing. She confided that she was a snowboarder and thought skiing was difficult. She had tried it a few times on this slope and was surprised at how fast one is propelled down the hill. My next ski day at A-Basin, I attempted the chairlift again. I skied off easily, but panicked as I looked down the slope. I tentatively turned left, but suddenly lost control and fell at the edge of the magic carpet because I couldn’t stop. On another run, my skis slipped and I took off down the slope, but soon fell backwards so hard I felt it for a week. I was now absolutely convinced skiing was not for me. Besides, it wasn’t much fun being passed by fearless two-year-olds who looked like pros. In the meantime, I discussed skiing with my seven-year-old granddaughter, who had been taking lessons at Loveland for several years and is now skiing black diamond slopes. One day, after deciding not to ski due to forecasted snow, I saw a photo of her posted on Facebook, riding up a chairlift in her ski gear, wearing a big smile. I really felt stupid now and resolved to keep trying. Two days later I returned to A-Basin. At the top of the chairlift, I attempted to turn left, but stopped immediately, terrified. I then tried to turn right, but my skis got tangled and I fell. When I was finally back on my skis, my friend, who was completely bored by now, said he would meet me in about twenty minutes. I started to slowly make my way down the slope, alone. As I picked up speed,

I thought I was going to hit the post of the chairlift, so I turned my right ski downhill a bit. That slight movement propelled me down the slope full speed. In spite of wedging as best I could, I was now going faster than I ever had before. The wind was whistling past my ears as I flew by the chairlift, still on my skis and headed for the parking lot. As Lynn was riding up Black Mountain Express with two other passengers, he pointed me out on the slope. “Look at the woman in the turquoise jacket,” he commented. “She’s a beginner and is really moving.” A woman asked, “Where is she going?” Lynn answered, “I don’t know… she just passed by the chairlift and is headed for the parking lot.” “Well, she’s going,” the woman replied. “Good for her, and she didn’t even fall.” I must admit I was thrilled I didn’t end up on the hood of a car. In Lynn’s mind, I was now the fearful Snow Bunny turned Granny Racer Rabbit. The turning point finally came after I went to Ski and Golf in Littleton, in search of new skis that might make skiing easier. After deciding on a pair of rockers, the salesman, who was older than I am, urged me to sign up for lessons. I explained that I already had a teacher, but he insisted that it is much easier to learn with a stranger. So, the next trip to A-Basin, I signed up for a two-hour lesson for those who have never skied before. There were about

ten of us, all with previous experience, and I was the oldest. The instructor took us rapidly through exercises on all three bunny slopes and, sure enough, after two hours I was skiing. The decisive moment was when the teacher explained that I could go down the steepest bunny slope as slowly as I wanted, and showed me how to do it. I found it easy to make the turns simply by turning my entire body more than I had been doing, using my arms. I discovered that wedging wasn’t enough to slow down and stop—it was necessary to bend my knees and really open up the back of the plow, turning at the same time to stop. Once I learned those essentials—turning, slowing, and stopping—I was finally on my way. Yes, I could do it after all! My advice to anyone who might want to try skiing is that if I can learn to ski, you will likely learn in half the time and wonder why you didn’t start sooner. One of the biggest advantages of learning when older is that a more flexible schedule allows you to ski during the week when the slopes are relatively empty. Without the crowds, you won’t have to worry about colliding with other skiers, getting passed by toddlers, and fighting the traffic on I-70. Best of all, once you learn, skiing is not only easier than snowshoeing, it also tightens muscles you didn’t know existed. Then you, too, can join the growing ranks of skiers who proudly proclaim, “I learned to ski after age 60.” △

Trail & Timberline

CLIMBING IN COLORADO’S CANYONS:

Front Range Crags to Backcountry Escapes

By Helen Sinclair The author on Sonic Youth 5.13a in Clear Creek. Photo by Jen Friedberg

he steep walls, rushing river, and winding road all play a part in the experience of climbing in Colorado’s many canyons. Whether you are after a quick morning run up an easy route before work, an adventurous all-day multi-pitch climb, or a camping trip with some climbing tied into it, Colorado’s canyons offer varied and unique options that will satisfy any type of climber from the first timer to the pro. Even simply driving up a canyon road is an experience. We have all done it: slowed down and peered over the steering wheel to check out the climber up on a steep wall 28

Trail & Timberline

above, giving ourselves a fright after taking our eyes off the winding road, or hearing the angry horn from the car behind us. All of life’s stresses can be forgotten once up high with just the next move to focus on. Kayakers can often be spotted from the wall, seemingly fearlessly tackling the spring rapids. Central to this climbing experience is the inability to hear your climbing partner clearly because of the overpowering road and river sounds. This pushes climbing teams to perfect their communication skills, something vital for any climber, but especially important to

those hoping to move from this training ground to greater alpine challenges. Part of what makes a great place for a climber to live is the ability to get out climbing after work. Living in the Front Range is the choice or dream of many climbers because of this. There are three main canyons to climb within an hour’s drive of numerous city centers in the region: Denver, Golden, and Boulder, to name a few. It was these three canyons, Clear Creek, Eldorado, and Boulder Canyon, that immediately came to mind when I was asked to write about climbing in Colorado’s canyons. Of course, there are others too—including a few secret spots—but these three probably see the most traffic both on the roads that run through them and in the numbers of climbers testing their abilities on the walls. Clear Creek Canyon runs alongside Highway 6 and is often used as an alternative route to Interstate 70. It has a lot of trucks coming and going from the quarries in the canyon. Because of this, the road is wildly busy, and I find that the scariest part of my climbing day is walking alongside and crossing the road to get from the car to the crag. But once up on the rock, the road is forgotten. The traffic sounds melt away into a gentle rumble and merge with the roar of the river. The climbs in Clear Creek are mostly well-bolted sport routes that range in grade from total beginner, at crags such as High Wire area, to a good selection of 5.10s and 5.11s. But for me, the reason why I would choose this canyon over any other is because it has such a large range of high-quality routes between the 5.12 and 5.13 grade range. This canyon offers fantastic red-point project potential. Even if you are just a casual local climber looking to have a quick outdoor workout, choosing a climb a few grades harder than what you would normally climb and visiting it regularly until the moves are pieced together is a perfect activity in Clear Creek, where the approaches are short and parking is easy. Eldorado, or “Eldo”, is possibly the most widely known of the three canyons, with a huge range of old school trad routes put up by many a famous climber. (Be warned, these routes come with old school grades, too.) There are also a few bolted lines and the occasional boulder tucked away between the longer traditional routes. I have repeated many routes in this canyon because the creative, interesting climbing is so fun I just want to do the climbs over

The author inside Oomph Slot, an off-width test piece on The Dome in Boulder Canyon. Photo by Said Parirokh

Gearing up for the Tyrolean traverse across Boulder Creek to climb North Face Center 5.7 on Cob Rock. Photo by Helen Sinclair

and over. My top picks for this place are The Yellow Spur—six pitches of 5.10 that can be very bold in places, especially if you are not used to runouts—and The Naked Edge, also six pitches, a test piece at 5.11a that has what I like to call “a few airy moments.” Go climb it, and you will see what I mean! Both are very popular and for good reason. So plan your day and enjoy any company you may have onroute. In contrast, just one major canyon over is Boulder Canyon. There are both trad lines and bolted lines to climb, as well as

boulder problems, some of which are the hardest in Colorado. Many groups use the various crags such as The Sport Park for teaching climbing, and most of the pro sport climbers seek harder routes in other places. There are quality routes throughout the canyon. Country Club Crack, a test piece and a rite of passage into the 5.11 grade, is one example. And Cob Rock, a 5.8 trad, makes for a fantastic introduction to multi-pitching. Tyrolean traverses are positioned up and down this canyon and add to the canyon’s climbing experience.

Because of their proximity to the city and because there are so many climbers in the area, all three of the canyons discussed so far are often busy, particularly if you are climbing routes 5.11 and below on a weekend. Be prepared to hang out at the crag with others, make friends, and have fun with one another. Some crags, like the Wall of the 90’s in Clear Creek, can resemble a climbing gym with ropes and gear scattered about at the base and someone hanging from a rope on every route. That is exactly what makes these canyons so great. And even though the place is usually full of people, you can still get many routes done in a short space of time. Crowds can be avoided even on weekends by choosing slightly harder routes, walking a little farther, or getting out on the rock before 11 AM. While on the subject of areas that resemble climbing gyms, I must mention Rifle. Before I went to Rifle, I had heard so many negative comments about the place, I was expecting to find a mud hole with a mob of arrogant 5.14 climbers. I was impressed and surprised to find neither of these. Instead, I drove into a pretty, lush, green canyon with a perfectly crystal clear stream running through it. The crags are busy, and lining up for one of the many polished but high quality single-pitch sport routes is common. There is a lot of discussion involving knee bars, heel-toe cams, drop knees, and very few places where the word “jug” is used frequently. Yes, there are many pro climbers who visit this area’s large concentration of 5.14s; however, I have only ever received positive encouragement from them and, when I have asked for it, received exceptionally detailed beta, including play-by play moves, who put it up, who did it last week, a lengthy explanation of what its grade is, when it was downgraded and then upgraded again because a hold fell off, etc. After a trip to this location, I leave feeling worked and motivated to train harder so I can return just that little bit stronger. If you are one who believes climbing should be just you, your partner, and the rock—you probably aren’t living in the populated metro Front Range—there are many canyons that offer seclusion. While still popular, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison is farther from the crowds and has many routes. It also has a wide range of grades to choose from. Without a doubt, “The Black” promises adventure. Trail & Timberline

Left: The author on Sonic Youth 5.13a in Clear Creek. Photo by Jen Friedberg . Right: Holly Barrass climbing in Black Canyon. Photo by Monilisa Aquino

It’s unique in that you park at the top and walk, scramble, or slide down to the base of the routes and then climb out. This gives a feeling of commitment you don’t get in other canyons. Combined with its long trad multi-pitch, the possibility of loose rock, and its isolated feel, the Black Canyon is always a long day even if not planned as such. The general consensus is that the Black Canyon of the Gunnison is scary. I asked a few climbers about their experiences in the Black, and one friend said, “It tests your mind, your body, your spirit. You can get the worst poison ivy of your life, the worst chapped lips you’ve ever had, cramps from dehydration, and the next day you can feel like someone beat you with a cast-iron skillet. But it’s some of the best, boldest climbing I’ve done in North America. I love it!” Another said, “Intimidating from the moment you rap in and commit to coming back out. Great rock, bad rock, and long routes make this some of the most memorable climbing I’ve done!” Another away-from-it-all canyon is 30

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Penitente Canyon located in the San Luis Valley, in south-central Colorado. It’s primarily a sport climbing destination with a few trad lines and beautiful camping. It is also rumored that the potential for development as a bouldering location is limitless. The majority of routes are 5.10 and above, but easier grades can be found at some crags, and groups do use this place, too. The bolted protection is safe and well maintained, making it a great place to hang-dog till you get the moves wired. Not far from Grand Junction is Colorado’s version of Indian Creek—Escalante Canyon. Few crowds and adherence to Leave No Trace by the developers makes this spot perfect for anyone looking for that quiet, isolated crack climbing experience. Often there are no bolted anchors, leaving you with the feeling that you’re the first ever to climb the route! I am also sure that there are many more lesser-known canyons hiding all over the state. A tiny roadless canyon in the vicinity of Coal Creek Canyon is one of those secret crags I know of—above a raging creek

with a dubious approach and over a breathtaking Tyrolean. Skunk Canyon is another that offers a secluded little spot between the Flatirons away from crowds. This one also has no road and only a tiny creek, so it gives the impression of climbing well away from it all when really you are just a hop, skip, and a jump off one of the Flatirions’s busiest trails. The routes range from a must-do, four-starred, 8-pitch 5.2 trad route named Angels Way to a burly 5.12d sport roof called The Guardian. Both ends of the spectrum in this canyon are worth checking out. Whether it’s a polished and popular crag or a committing, isolated, multi-pitch climb, climbing in canyons is a quintessential part of climbing in Colorado. Look out for rattlesnakes, cross the rivers carefully, place good gear, be bold, try your hardest, and climb like there is no place else you would rather be. △ Helen Sinclair is a ski patroller, climber, and climbing coach living in Boulder, Colorado.

Trail & Timberline

SAND, LLAMAS, AND SLOT CANYONS: A Five-day Llama-supported Backpack Trip in Utah

BY SANDI BIANCHI

Hiking through Little Death Hollow canyon. Photo by Barbara Munson

The world awaits you with Colorado Mountain Club’s Adventure Travel—Mount Blanc, Iceland, Kilimanjaro, Switzerland, Italy, France, and Utah. Yes, Utah. Sometimes it’s nice not getting on an airplane! Last May eight CMC members journeyed to Boulder, Utah, to participate in the Wolverine and Little Death Hollow llama-supported backpack trip. All eight of us should have questioned our sanity in choosing to go into a canyon named Little Death Hollow, but none of us did. Maybe we thought the word “Little” meant that we’d only mildly suffer our demise as compared to hiking in (Big) Death Hollow, a canyon in the upper Escalante on the west side of Boulder, where we would spend torturous days in pain and misery before perishing. Fortunately, the title of the trip held two misnomers: First, Little Death Hollow is not death defying, and second, only the llamas backpacked. We carried our daypacks; they carried our food and gear. Aspen group member and CMC leader Carol Kurt organized the trip in conjunction with llama2boot, LLC, out of Boulder, Utah. We had three highly educated, articulate, and area-knowledgeable guides: llama2boot owner B.J. Orozco and his two 32

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cohorts, Laurel Holding and Nicole Tomlin, plus eight adorable llamas and one loveable sheep dog. It was soon evident that B.J. had more invested in his llamas than just money and a business venture. He truly loved those big fellows, but more on that later… The LDH trailhead is an hour’s drive east of Boulder on the Burr Trail Road. Starting the hike from the canyon of ghostly aspirations, we soon found no real horrors

lay ahead to snag our souls into heaven or hell. Some canyoneers think Little Death Hollow is one of the best non-technical slot canyons in Utah. Most slot canyons are Navajo sandstone. But LDH is Wingate sandstone, which makes it a rarity. Its soaring 50- to 75-foot sandstone cliffs encase the dry, narrow canyon and shade the sandy floor for up to five miles. In some spots the canyon is so narrow that hikers must remove their packs and turn side-

Top Left: Llama trip participants pick up their pastured llamas and hike back to camp from Little Cathedral in the Desert. Photo by Barbara Munson. Top Right: Llama trip participants get a little help from the guides to descend a sandstone pouroff between Horse Canyon and the Escalante River. Photo by Sherry Richardson

ways to pass. While more open than LDH, Wolverine’s fame comes from huge petrified logs at the upper end of the second tributary. At various points in the LDH, choke stones—boulders the size of cars—silently tried to foil us. These monoliths had once rushed down the canyon in a cataclysmic cascade of roaring water only to become stuck, living forever in their trapped state or until a bigger and better gush of water comes. We either had to go up and over or down and around them. If there was an opening at the bottom, it was often littered with logs and debris. When choosing the lower road, we pushed our packs through the narrow opening ahead of us and bellycrawled for 10 feet or more before passing the obstruction. Because Little Death Hollow is too narrow for llamas loaded with 60-pound saddlebags to pass, B.J. and Nicole took the llamas through the wider Wolverine Canyon to a pre-set camp at the mouth of LDH and Horse Canyons, while Laurel led us into Little Death Hollow. After 8 miles of hiking, we reached camp where we met the llamas for the first time, set up the guide-supplied Big Agnes tents, and settled in for the evening… in wait of dinner. I expected bland, freeze-dried backpacking food. What a surprise I had when B.J. presented us with an array of appetizers and a one-pot meal that even Julia Child could praise. This dinner was not an

anomaly; they appeared night after night. Although simple meals, the food was plentiful, and the ingredients fresh, sometimes even organic. Breakfasts and lunches were the same. B.J. was also willing to work with the dietary restrictions among us: glutenfree and vegetarian. Thank goodness for an abundance of food because we needed and consumed it. Hiking in sand is not easy. It’s almost as though the sand grabs your feet and holds them in place. You have to apply physical strength to move through it. You’re guaranteed to notice the extra effort after a few hours of hiking. If you hike 8 miles in sand, it’s going to feel like 10. This is what B.J. called the “real feel.” By the end of the day, we were ravenous, ready to scarf down anything in sight as the “real feel” played out in our tummies. If you’re going to drive 500 miles to Boulder, Utah, to hike, you might as well make it worth your time. And that we did. Our days were long, usually hiking from 9 in the morning until 6 in the evening, 10 to 12 miles per day. “Real feel”: 12 to 14. On Day 2 we hiked down Horse Canyon, then up and over a bench into the Escalante drainage. From there we put on our river shoes and hiked down the Escalante River, crossing it 18 times before reconnecting with Horse Canyon and our camp. In most places the chilly water was up to our knees, but a couple of the early crossings had water high enough to make us squeal. Walking along the river bank

Bottom Right: Rock art panel near the trailhead of Little Death Hollow canyon. Photo by Sherry Richardson

was no easy matter—total bushwhacking. Most of the trees and brush were pointing downriver, as if a huge steamroller had rolled over them. Uprooted, mature cottonwoods wrapped themselves around garage-size rocks; giant sifters littered the creek bed, left and right—all sure signs of recent flooding. “Real feel” on that day was 15-plus miles although we’d really only done 10. Day 3 brought rain clouds and cooler temperatures. We hiked up Horse Canyon and then climbed a bench where we found an old rancher cabin and spring. We amused ourselves by poking through the human midden heap speculating on what purpose more than fifty decomposing Dcell batteries had been used. Lunch was back in camp followed by a rainstorm and nap. Afterward, we walked back up LDH Trail & Timberline

Left: Llama trip participants stand on bench overlooking the Escalante River. From left to right are Carol Kurt, David Hite, guide B.J. Orozco, Fred Munson, Sherry Richardson, Susan Jones, Ralph Noistering, and Sandi Bianchi. Photo by Laurel Holding Right: Aspen group member and CMC Adventure Travel leader, Carol Kurt, leads one of the llamas out of Wolverine Canyon. Photo by Barbara Munson

to see it from a different perspective. That lasted until lightning lit the dark sky, thunder cracked, and rain fell. No one wants to get caught in a slot canyon when Mother Nature rampages. B.J. told us the torrid details of a flash flood in 1997 in Antelope Canyon where seven French tourists, two U.S. citizens, one Brit, and one Swede were killed. He said the first thing that happens when there’s a flash flood is that a huge roar and wind blows down canyon. The wind is so strong it sandblasts everything in its path. When rescuers found the only survivor, the tour guide and bus driver, the only item of clothing he was wearing was his belt—all his other clothing had been ripped off. His eyes, ears, and nose were caked with sand. A severe thunderstorm warning had been issued two hours before the flash flood, but ironically, the spot where the tourists were washed away, 100 yards inside the mouth of the canyon, had received only a trace of rain. Day 4 was time to move the llamas to better pasture down Horse Canyon. Each one of us led a llama to new grazing, thus getting to know them and their quirks up close and personal. They don’t like people, and they don’t want our attention, unless we’re giving them something to eat. Cuddly, they are not! But they are cute in their own way. Each one has its own little idio34

Trail & Timberline

syncrasies that can be either annoying or amusing. For example, Zorro was happy to be the last llama in line; Escobar cried when he couldn’t see his buddies; Echo took the top prize for sociability; aging Dagwood refused to show his infirmities (sounds like some CMC seniors I know); Junior wanted to be out front; Chaco accepted third place; Ozzie sat down at every opportunity; and Montanyo gently nose-nudged his leader to keep up with the group. “While I hadn’t signed up for leading llamas as part of the trip,” said David Hite, trip participant, “I quickly learned that my llama, Montanyo, was savvy to the notion of being led. Montanyo’s evaluation of me by way of a flash of the eye and a flip of the ear changed any notion I may have had about setting our pace and direction. A gentle nose-nudge meant ‘you’re taking too many pictures, pal—keep up with the group,’ and a pull of his lead meant ‘this grass is too good to pass up—don’t worry about catching up with the rest.’ An understanding of one another’s role was immediate and mutually satisfying.” Once the llamas were tied and happy in their new pasture, we hiked up the Escalante River to Little Cathedral in the Desert. Hiking upriver was much harder than hiking down, as we were going against the grain. Every step was a collision of man and nature. Long pants and sleeves provided some protection again nicks and scrapes. Good thing Little Cathedral in the Desert was worth the effort. Voices echo off the massive sandstone walls that surround three-quarters of the canyon. The sand on the desert floor collects the sun’s

heat and makes the most wonderful place to lie down and soak up nature’s blessings. We lingered in this meditative, spiritual place for more than just lunch. (This short box canyon off the Escalante should not be confused with (big) Cathedral in the Desert on the lower Escalante where the river enters Lake Powell.) A real treat ensued that evening when Laurel and Nicole showed us how to make fire with their own hand-made tools, the kind of tools that ancients have used for eons. Using a spindle and fireboard, they alternately rubbed the spindle between the palms of their hands three or four times each. The moment one reached the bottom of the spindle, the other one jumped in at the top. Working together for more than 20 minutes, smoke appeared, and they created a tiny coal that could be transferred to a premade bundle of shredded kindling where a fire could gestate. Stopping short of actually making fire due to BLM canyon rules, the women challenged us to give it a try. We gave them our best and strongest bodies, but to no avail. Blistered palms and sore forearms were our only accomplishments. At this rate, Little Death Hollow might suck the life out of us after all. These women were not your average, everyday guides. They were both graduates of the Boulder (Utah) Outdoor Survival School (BOSS). Laurel had done a 14-day course; Nicole, a 28-day course—both living and surviving alone outdoors with only a meager supply of water, food, and gear— nothing any of us wanted to tackle. They knew every edible and medicinal plant in the desert. Both were now teaching at BOSS. Their kind, gentle dispositions be-

lied their innate power and strength. Day 5 marked the end of the trip. We dismantled our tents, loaded the llamas, walked 2 miles up Horse Canyon to Wolverine and then 6 miles out to the trailhead, each of us leading a llama. Midway through Wolverine, the guides had to lead the llamas one by one over a steep section of sandstone. Standing around a corner, we heard the sound of a llama sliding down sandstone. We froze, knowing that one of the animals had just fallen. B.J. rushed to the llama’s side and helped him recover his footing. The loaded saddlebags had broken his fall. He was unhurt except for a small cut on his front foot. Llamas get nervous when they can’t see one another. Chaco couldn’t see his buddies around the bend; so he tried to hurry to catch them, losing his footing. Had he broke a leg, B.J. would have had to shoot him and leave his body for buzzards—a sad, sobering thought to all of us who had come to appreciate these animals and see firsthand B.J.’s emotional attachment to them. After five days, our group of eight hikers and three guides had melded: we were

Guide Laurel Holding (right) leads trip participants into Little Death Hollow Canyon. Photo by Sherry Richardson

a close-knit family with fond memories of the animals, people, and place. Hikers included David Hite, Sherry Richardson, Carol Kurt, Fred and Barbara Munson, Sandi Bianchi, Ralph Noistering, and Susan Jones. We returned to our first night’s accommodations, Boulder Mountain

Lodge and Hell’s Backbone Grill, for a hot shower, comfortable bed, and a commemorative dinner celebration. Amazing how well we all cleaned up! Over good wine and locally grown, organic vegetables and pastured meat, we relived our hiking tales of sand, llamas, and slot canyons.△

Wolverine and Little Death Hollow Canyons a glance Hike: 16-mile loop Difficulty: Moderate Location: Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument Nearest town: Boulder, Utah Access: Burr Trail Road to Wolverine Loop Road Elevation: Wolverine Trailhead, 5,400 feet; Confluence of Little Death Hollow and Horse Canyon, 4,888 feet; Little Death Hollow Trailhead, 5,561 feet Main attractions: Little Death Hollow is a superb example of a slot canyon. Its narrows run for 5 miles. Wolverine has numerous petrified logs on the south branch. Main deterrents: Little Death Hollow has seven or eight choke stones to maneuver. This is usually not a problem unless it has rained. In that case, be prepared to wade through waist-deep, debris-strewn water, and possibly swim. Otherwise, both canyons are non-technical and require no special gear. Water: Bring your own in both Wolverine and Little Death Hollow; both were dry when we were there. Horse has a small stream in the evenings for water purification. Best time to hike: Spring and fall Maps: Trails Illustrated, Canyons of the Escalante; USGS Silver Falls Bench, Red Breaks, King Bench, and Pioneer Mesa 7.5 minute quads Warnings: Do not camp in stream beds. Choose a campsite above the debris line. Flash floods are always a danger, especially in the monsoon season, mid-July through September. One-fourth to one-half inch of rain falling in a short amount of time will result in a newborn stream in a dry stream bed. A moderate rain falling for two to three hours will result in a flash flood. Resources Non-technical Canyon Hiking Guide to the Colorado Plateau, by Michael R. Kelsey, 6th edition, Kelsey Publishing, Provo, Utah. llama2boot, LLC: www.llama2boot,com Boulder Outdoor Survival School: www.boss-inc.com Boulder Mountain Lodge: www.boulder-utah.com Hell’s Backbone Grill: www.hellsbackbonegrill.com

Trail & Timberline

Frank Wadleigh: Dedicated to the West How Early CMC Members Helped put Arches National Park on the Map

By Woody Smith or a club organized to promote the mountains of Colorado, it may come as a surprise that one of the CMC’s early members had a primary role in making the arches of Utah a worldwide destination. In the early 20th century, Frank A. Wadleigh, (1857–1933) and photographer George Beam (1868–1935) worked for the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad and, as a team, crisscrossed the West, documenting and promoting the railroad and the scenic wonders along its lines. In July 1923, Wadleigh and Beam were the lucky recipients of an invitation to visit some mysterious and hard-to-find natural stone arches located north of Moab, Utah, near Salt Valley. The invitation came from prospector Alexander Ringhoffer, who, along with his sons, had “discovered” several arches in December 1922. The Ringhoffers were certainly not the first to have seen the arches, but they are credited with being the first to begin the process that would eventually lead to the establishment of Arches National Monument in 1929. Ringhoffer had contacted the right men. In the 1920s, Wadleigh was the D&RG’s Passenger Traffic Manager, which meant it was his job to sell tickets. To fulfill his duties, Wadleigh became a tireless promoter of Colorado and the West—a one-man chamber of commerce willing to correspond with anyone showing the slightest interest in visiting, re-locating, or at best, conducting business locally. Most often Wadleigh personally filled requests for the D&RG’s Redbook, a guide to the stops, sights, and lodging along each route. Today such requests would be handled by mailroom employees, but Wadleigh was only too happy to write a few sentences, encouraging more contact and perhaps a visit. Wadleigh was also passionate about the potential development of western mineral resources, particularly oil and oil shale. Although long forgotten today, during the late 1910s and early 1920s, western Colorado experienced an oil shale boom in the same towns that would boom and bust again in 36

Trail & Timberline

the late 1970s and early 1980s. The boom was in response to USGS surveys (1913 and 1914) indicating a potential 40 billion barrels of oil locked into the shale plateaus of western Colorado and eastern Utah. The problem, then as now, was how to squeeze the oil out of the shale. Wadleigh was devoted to the subject. Beginning about 1904 he kept increasingly voluminous scrapbooks collected from newspapers, magazines, and government publications worldwide on all manner of arcane processes and obscure discoveries related to oil and oil shale. The scrapbooks also contain bits of forgotten history: Crew capping the first gas well at Fort Collins, which blew 80,000,000 cubic feet of gas a day until controlled… Cows, near Fort Collins, soaked with oil spray from Well No.1 two miles away. (Rocky Mountain News, Pictorial Section, 9/21/1924) A few clippings note the loss of log cabins after their chimneys, unknowingly built of oil shale, burst into flame. He also collected articles on dinosaur fossils, Egypt, and astronomy. But the subject always came back to oil, shale, and the prospects for its development. A gauge of Wadleigh’s enthusiasm is demonstrated by an interview with The Grand Valley News in February 1921: Mr. Frank A. Wadleigh…spent last Saturday visiting this city and vicinity. Mr. Wadleigh, who has proven a real live booster for this section of the Western Slope, has some valuable oil shale land in the Upper Parachute District. During his visit he called at the News office and discussed with its editor the present conditions of the country and its great need, the same being OIL! This need, this vociferous demand for oil, will be answered when these mighty shale hills are tapped and the great streams of shale oil are released to fill the big reservoirs

of commerce… Wadleigh became a known expert, which, along with his railroad duties, resulted in many valuable associates. Among them was Colorado’s governor, Oliver H. Shoup, and School of Mines President Victor Alderson. Wadleigh’s interests and responsibilities also made him a familiar figure on the Western Slope and into Utah. Knowing Wadleigh’s positive influence, his contacts kept him well informed. In January 1920, he received an update from E.S. Blair on Moab’s recent oil strike, which had occurred at a well located a half mile south of town: It appears that all of the oil rights both in Moab and in the Salt Valley sections have been taken up. In the Salt Valley district a standard drill is expected to be erected and work begun, as soon as it can be delivered on the ground. There are poor accommodations for handling a crowd at the hotels in Moab. Two persons to a room, cold room and cold beds seem to be the result of an influx of twenty-five to thirty strangers per day. There were about fifty outsiders there on the 21st, which is about all that can be accommodated. The road from Thompsons for the first five miles out was somewhat rutty and sloppy in places... A new road is under construction which will reduce the grade to about 6% and will take out some of the sharp curves. There is more or less skepticism manifested by visitors, and the lack of tangible evidence is disconcerting to those who hoped to see the oil bailed or pumped... I feel that I can re-affirm the statement…that I am convinced the Western Allies Oil & Gas Co., have tapped an oil body, the volume of which is yet to be determined. Despite the lack of any substantial success, oil wells soon pockmarked the plateau

country. The boom was still bubbling a year later when, on March 8, 1921, Wadleigh and Beam came to town. Ironically their guide led them through Salt Valley, the geologic heart of the present day park, but with nary the mention of an arch. Frank A. Wadleigh, General Passenger Agent of the Denver & Rio Grande, and George L. Beam, official photographer of the railway, both of Denver, were in Moab on Tuesday to investigate the oil fields and secure data relative to the activities… They were on a general trip throughout Eastern Utah and had been in Price and Green River. F.W. Strong, president of the Big Six Oil Company, met them at Thompsons and piloted them through the Salt Valley and Moab fields. Mr. Beam secured a large number of photographs of the various structures. Mr. Wadleigh stated that he was confident that the activities of the Big Six Companies in southeastern Utah presage oil production in some, if not all, the [geologic] structures. (“Railroad Men Visit Southern Utah Oil Fields,” Deseret News, March 14, 1921) But Wadleigh’s enthusiasm was not enough to change reality. Eastern Utah’s oil was low in quantity and hard to drill. But the oil men’s bane turned out to be a tourist boon—since it was about this time Wadleigh received the letter from Alexander Ringhoffer. Wadleigh recounts what happened next in a letter to another friend of influence, Stephen Mather, Director of the National Park Service: ...I wanted to take up with you personally the matter of making a National Monument out of a new beauty spot recently brought to my attention and explored by Mr. Beam and myself in September [1923]. In July we had a letter from a miner... telling us about some wonderful rock formations that he had discovered...and asked us to come over and take a look at them. This man, Alexander Ringhoffer, met us at Thompson station, and guided us to an unknown region approximately eighteen miles southeast of that point. He drove us to the foot of a very high rocky ridge, when we left the automobile and some two or three miles of

very heavy climbing to the place which Ringhoffer had named “The Devil’s Garden.” There are no trails and there is no way to get into this “garden” except over the rocky ridge referred to. Arriving we found some stupendous sandstone formations and unlike anything I have ever seen in the Rocky Mountain region. The monoliths are greater than those in the Garden of Gods, the Colorado National Monument…or in any of the southern Utah regions that I have visited—excepting Zion. We found what undoubtedly is fifth in size of the known natural bridges. We had but two days at our disposal and could only cover a small part of the district in that time. I would like to have you interest yourself in this matter and, if feasible, have the section surveyed with the view of setting it apart as a National Monument.* Very Truly Yours, Frank A. Wadleigh November 2, 1923 While there was subsequent confusion as to the exact location Wadleigh and Beam had visited, this letter would set in motion the bureaucracy that would eventually lead to Herbert Hoover’s Presidential Proclamation of April 12, 1929, setting aside the Windows and Devils Garden section as Arches National Monument. The Klondike Bluffs were finally added to the Monument on November 25, 1938. *Although called the “Devil’s Garden” by Ringhoffer, the area visited that day in 1923 is now called the Klondike Bluffs. The natural bridge referred to is Tower Arch. The “Devil’s Garden” now applies to a section of the park on the east side of Salt Valley. Frank Wadleigh Bio Frank A. Wadleigh was born November 14 or 15, 1857, in Clinton, Iowa, to parents Emmaline Emmons, native of Vermont, and E.G. Wadleigh of New Hampshire. Wadleigh graduated from Iowa State University in 1879 and earned a post-graduate degree at the University of Michigan (1879-1881). Wadleigh began his railroad career immediately, selling tickets for the Chicago Northwestern Railway in his hometown of Clinton. In 1882 he became a clerk in Pueblo, for the Chicago & Iowa

Railroad. In 1887 he was promoted to Assistant General Passenger & Ticket Agent, a position he held until 1895. He became the General Passenger & Ticket Agent of the Rio Grande Western at Salt Lake City (1895-1899), and then General Agent of the Western Passenger Association and Immigrant Bureau of Western Lines of New York. This meant he helped the newly arrived migrate west. In 1904 Wadleigh joined the Denver & Rio Grande as Assistant Passenger Agent in Denver. Wadleigh took over in 1920, upon the retirement of Major Shadrach Hooper—a 16-year apprenticeship. Wadleigh married in 1912. His wife’s name was Harriet. Wadleigh and George Beam were accepted into the Colorado Mountain Club on March 16, 1916, as part of the regular business of the board of directors. Their membership in the Club seems to have been largely a choice of moral support, since their railroad jobs certainly got them out and about. Only Beam is mentioned as going on any hikes. Coincidentally it was to Green Mountain and Royal Arch, near Boulder, on November 19, 1916. The trip leader was early Club stalwart Bill Ervin. Harriet Wadleigh joined the CMC on June 21, 1917. Wadleigh’s correspondence also contains the last known letters of CMC member Agnes Vaille, who worked as secretary for the Denver Chamber of Commerce. The letters dated December 23 and 27, 1924, asks for and accepts Wadleigh’s participation on a committee to promote oil shale development in Colorado. Wrote Vaille, “We desire to have the interests represented [of those] who have devoted their attention to and appreciate the possibilities of this great resource.” (12/27/1924) Vaille died just sixteen days later on Longs Peak. Wadleigh retired from the D&RG in 1927, but, unable to remain idle, became Traffic Manager for the Rocky Mountain Motor Co. working on a limited basis until a stroke hospitalized him. Wadleigh passed away on July 31, 1933 at the age of 75. George Beam passed away in 1935. Both men remained CMC members until their passing. Thanks to Vickie Webster, retired historian at Arches National Park, and Lee Ferguson, Park Ranger at Arches National Park, for historical information. △ Trail & Timberline

the fourteener files Capitol Peak in fall. Photo by Daniel Langemann

“It took us as long to climb the Centennials as it did the 14ers, primarily finding the right opportunities to climb Dallas and Jagged. We owe a great deal of gratitude to Uwe Sartori and Roger Linfield for being patient rock leaders and fantastic climbing partners. The most difficult peaks were definitely the most enjoyable memories when done with the right people under good conditions.” —Renata and John Collard

“While glissading down the snowfield from Mt. Sneffels, I veered out of the trough that I was ploughing to thaw my frosty derrière. I came to a stop next to two small dark objects in an otherwise sea of snowy white landscape. Rocks, you may think but, no; there lie two twenty-dollar bills encased in the snow, possibly taken from a previous glissader. Being the benefactor of such a reward, I located the best Mexican restaurant in Ouray that evening and treated my fellow climbing partners to dinner and margaritas. As such, Mt. Sneffels is the only mountain that I ever got ‘paid’ to climb.” —Don Vandendriesche

“I am a native New Yorker and live in New York. Coming from living at sea level in New York City, every trip to Colorado was special and climbing every peak was a unique and rewarding experience. My trips to the Rockies became an essential escape from the concrete jungle of skyscrapers and I cherished every minute I was there. Climbing into the mountains was medicine for a tired body and injected that needed vitality into my soul like pumping air into a tire. I am looking forward to my next trip out!” —Robert Cicchetti

“I climbed 47 of the 58 14ers while I was 60, 61, and 62 years young! I made many great friends through Meetups and enjoyed the camaraderie of all my fellow crazies who love to get 14,000+ feet high on our amazing mountains! Cheers to all those who, like I, discovered the love of moun38

Trail & Timberline

tains, fresh air, exercise, personal challenge, and sharing this passion with strangers who became very special friends who share special memories! Man was this a lot of fun... I lost 36 lbs over these 3 years.... that’s quite a diet plan, no?!” —Michael Knight

“Bierstadt. A New Year’s Eve Day hike sounded epic—especially that last year of high school. What better way to close the door on one season of life? This was when the two miles of willows had no boardwalk, but of course it was winter anyhow and the snowpack was deep and completely covered. Almost enough to walk across. This was when I had no hiking experience, and only jogging pants for my leg layer. Three-quarters of the way up, we watch dark clouds rolling our way. The cold is bitter, and at the right moment my friend pulls out a spare pair of snow pants—naturally, he is much smaller than me and they don’t come up to my waist, so with one frozen hand I hold them up as high as I can manage. At least my legs are warm. Soon the snow is blowing, the wind is cutting, my thighs are cramping… but we keep inching to the summit. Zero visibility, but 100% success! Working back

down to the willows, finally, I see the Jeep two miles out and start to stride back in confident naïve joy. Only to posthole to my waist. Ah, yes. The buried willows. All two miles of it. Like my joy, my strength is now gone. I crawl. Hands and knees. Alone. My eyes fixed on the Jeep, like Polaris in the night sky. The relief I felt as we jostled down Guanella Pass was epic. My reward was two months of scabby windburn. My nose, ears, and cheeks. Every time I looked in the mirror, those peeling scabs were reminders of this great accomplishment. Seven years later, I got engaged on that same summit. In the summertime with a bottle of wine. And 20+ years later, El Diente was #55 on my Gerry Roach list. The last of many ascents, both winter and summer, technical & non-technical.” —Mark Mitten

“On September 4, I finished my list with a wonderful climb of Sunlight Peak. What an incredible journey it has been; I've gotten to see so much of the incredible beauty that Colorado offers and meet some great people, to say the least. The journey, and the friends I have met through it, I will cherish for the rest of my life.” —Antonio Luis Vazquez

The Fourteeners List

Those who reported completion of Colorado’s Fourteeners in 2014 No. Name First Peak Date Last Peak Date 1189

Ed Holub

Longs Peak

September 1995

Mt. Wilson

August 2005

1266

Fred Kelly

San Luis Peak

July 1998

Longs Peak

July 2007

1282 Jeffrey Mickelson Mt. Elbert July 1998 Mt. Wilson August 2007 1368

Barbara Mickelson

Mt. Elbert

July 1998

Little Bear Peak

August 2009

1379 Rob Wivchar Longs Peak August 1999 Mt. Evans September 2009 1463

Robert E. Swaney III

Wilson Peak

June 1991

Snowmass Mountain

September 2011

1464

Sharon Dawson

Mt. Sneffels

August 1982

Wilson Peak

September 2011

1482

Scotty Saunders

Mt. Princeton

May 2006

Culebra Peak

July 2012

1527

Joni Patterson Saunders

Mt. Princeton

May 2006

Mt. Sneffels

September 2012

1564 Sharon Decker Grays Peak 1999 Wilson Peak August 2013 1565 Cindy Fletcher Mt. Elbert July 2002 El Diente August 2013 1566

Quoc Nguyen

Mt. Bierstadt

August 2010

Mt. Eolus

August 2013

1567

Kirk M. Nelson

Quandary Peak

June 1982

Mt. Sneffels

August 2013

1588 Eric J. Lee Mt. Sneffels July 2004 El Diente July 2014 1589

Don Vandendriesche

Longs Peak

September 1998

Sunlight Peak

July 2014

1590

Brian Wilcomb

Mt. Bierstadt

September 1998

Grays Peak

July 2014

1591

Andrew Carafelli

Mt. Bierstadt

September 1994

Capitol Peak

August 2014

1592

Robert Cicchetti

Longs Peak

September 2007

Snowmass Mountain

August 2014

1593

David W. Foster

Grays Peak

June 2007

Little Bear Peak

August 2014

1594

Darren Funk-Neubauer

Quandary Peak

August 2011

Capitol Peak

August 2014

1595

Ken M. Graves

San Luis Peak

August 1999

Mt. of the Holy Cross

August 2014

1596 Richard Heppe Mt. Bierstadt 1987 Snowmass Mountain August 2014 1597

Steve Leitgeb

Mt. Bierstadt

July 2006

Little Bear Peak

August 2014

1598

Tiffany Leitgeb

Mt. Bierstadt

July 2006

Little Bear Peak

August 2014

1599

Mark J. Mitten

Mt. Bierstadt

December 1991

El Diente

August 2014

1600 Sanja Nakovski Mt. Elbert July 2010 Capitol Peak August 2014 1601 Alan Potts Mt. Elbert July 2010 Crestone Needle August 2014 1602 Beth Potts Mt. Elbert July 2010 Crestone Needle August 2014 1603

Ronald D. Pouliot

Quandary Peak

June 1993

Mt. Wilson

August 2014

1604 Justin Simoni Pikes Peak July 2014 Longs Peak August 2014 1605 Mike Stolk Mt. Princeton June 2004 Mt. Sneffels August 2014 1606

Boyd M. Van Voorhis

Mt. Bierstadt

May 2009

Ellingwood Point

August 2014

1607

Brent Zimmerman

Mt. Belford

September 2001

North Maroon Peak

August 2014

1608

Bridget L. Bryson

Grays Peak

June 2002

Mt. Wilson

August 2014

1609

Carol Beckman

Grays Peak

August 1996

Capitol Peak

September 2014

1610 Jim Davies Pikes Peak September 1994 Capitol Peak September 2014 1611

Paula Dean

Grays Peak

September 2009

Handies Peak

September 2014

1612

Justin P. Duelen

Mt. Shavano

July 2010

Wilson Peak

September 2014

1613 Shawn Donnelly Mt. Democrat July 1997 Mt. Huron September 2014 1614

Greg Goebel

1615

Michael Knight

Longs Peak

August 1979

Maroon Peak

September 2014

Maroon Peak

September 2014

1616 Daniel Langemann Grays Peak June 2006 Capitol Peak September 2014 1617 Ben Lysdahl Mt. Elbert July 2002 Uncompahgre Peak September 2014 1618

Karin Brems Page

Grays Peak

July 2008

Capitol Peak

September 2014

1619

Derick Page

Longs Peak

August 2005

Capitol Peak

September 2014

1620 John Peretz Quandary Peak 2007 North Maroon Peak September 2014 1621

Brad Randolph

La Plata Peak

July 2009

Mt. of the Holy Cross

September 2014

1622 Antonio Vazquez Quandary Peak June 2011 Sunlight Peak September 2014 1623 Michael J. Weddell Mt. Elbert September 2009 Pikes Peak September 2014 1624 Jon Weir Handies Peak August 2011 Blanca Peak September 2014 1625 Jason Blyth Mt. Bierstadt July 2009 Mt. Yale October 2014 1626

Brent S. Buchanan

Castle Peak

July 2011

Handies Peak

October 2014

1627 Brad Stevens Pikes Peak April 2011 Handies Peak October 2014 For recognition in next year’s issue, send the registration form by October 15 to the Colorado Mountain Club at 710 10th St., #200, Golden, CO, 80401; or you may send an e-mail to editor@cmc.org. For Beyond the Fourteeners/Thirteeners recognition, please include the date and name of the last peak.

Trail & Timberline

Beyond the Fourteeners

by Chris Ruppert and Dave Goldwater

100 Highest Peaks

NO. Name Final Peak Date 217 Sharon Dawson Hagerman Peak 7/26/2014 218 Kent Beverly Rio Grande Pyramid 8/31/2014 219 Renata Collard Pigeon Peak 8/31/2014 220 John Collard Pigeon Peak 8/31/2014 221 Joseph Michaels Jagged Mountain 9/1/2014 222 Tom Bonesio Dallas Peak 9/13/2014 223 Ben Lysdahl Uncompahgre Peak 9/14/2014 224 Shawn Donnelly Huron Peak 9/20/2014 225 Beth Bershader Thunder Pyramid 9/27/2014 226 Keith Bershader Thunder Pyramid 9/27/2014

200 Highest Peaks

69 Carson Black Tijeras Peak 5/6/2012 77 Marianne Curtis Mount Jackson 8/2/2014 78 Kenneth E Kunkel Mount Powell 8/8/2014 | 79 Roger Linfield Peak Six 8/18/2014

300 Highest Peaks

42 Fred Askins V 3 7/5/2014

400 Highest Peaks

32 Fred Askins Sunshine Mountain 9/1/2014

500 Highest Peaks

30 Dave Hahn Beaubien Peak 8/15/2014 31 Fred Askins Mount Garfield 9/11/2014

600 Highest Peaks

30 Dave Hahn Lomo Liso Mountain 8/15/2014 31 Fred Askins Mount Garfield 9/11/2014

All Thirteeners

30 Dave Hahn "Golden Bear Peak" 8/23/2014 31 Fred Askins Fortress Peak/U 3 9/12/2014

Beyond the Thirteeners 700 Highest Peaks

NO. NAME FINAL PEAK DATE 9 John Kirk UN 12990 9/28/14 10 Craig Patterson UN 12935 10/24/14

1000 Highest Peaks 7 Dan Bereck Bowen Mountain 8/3/14

1100 Highest Peaks

5 Kirk Mallory UN 12441 8/16/14

1400 Highest Peaks 2 Teresa Gergen Mount Ethel 9/12/14

1500, 1600, 1700 Highest Peaks and All Eleveners 2

Teresa Gergen

UN 11705 ("Anvil Horn")

9/12/14

1800 Highest Peaks

2 Teresa Gergen UN 10970 9/13/14

1900 Highest Peaks

1 Teresa Gergen Farwell Mountain 9/14/14

2000, 2100, 2200, 2300 Highest Peaks and All Teners

1 Teresa Gergen Bears Ears Peak 10/31/14

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1: Brent Buchanan (left) on North Maroon Peak. 2: Brad Randolph on Snowmass Mountain, August 17, 2014. 3: Renata and John Collard finish the 100 Highest Peaks in Colorado on August 31, 2014 with Pigeon Peak. 4: Bighorn sheep on Pyramid Peak. Photo by Don Vandendriesche 5: Kirk Nelson completes the Fourteeners on Mt. Sneffels, August 10, 2013. 6: Eric Lee (with flag in hand) on El Diente Peak, Ericâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s final Fourteener, on July 4, 2014. 7: Michael Knight with climbing companion Lisa Guthrie on Maroon Peak.

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End of the Trail Clara Niemoller ▶ 1916-2013 By Gerald Caplan

Clara Niemoller, a longtime Boulder CMC member, died at the age of 97. Born in Wakefield, Kansas, in 1916, she died on November 9, 2013 in Lafayette, Colorado. Reflecting her diversity of interests, Clara had earned a Bachelor of Science Degree in Business Administration from Kansas State University, a Master of Social Work from the University of California, and a Masters Degree in Fine Arts from the University of Colorado. During her career, she taught high school business courses, worked for Cessna Aircraft and, when she moved to Los Angeles in 1947, worked with the Director of Health and Physical Education in the Los Angeles County Schools. After earning her Master of Social Work degree, she became a case worker for the Veteran’s Administration Mental Hygiene Clinic and Hospital in Wichita, Kansas. Clara retired in 1963, moved to Boulder, and earner her MFA at CU in 1969. Her paintings were exhibited in several galleries in Boulder. An avid hiker, climber, and bicyclist, she joined the Colorado Mountain Club and immediately became involved in hikes, ski trips, and the Boulder Group summer outings. Her many friends in the CMC remember her as an enthusiastic hiker and climber who loved the CMC. Clara took international trips with the CMC to New Zealand and France. She biked in Eastern Europe, China, and Holland. Clara climbed Kilimanjaro and Mt. Fuji. In her eighties, while hiking in the Collegiate Peaks, she came

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within 300 feet of the summit of Antero. Throughout her life, Clara was concerned about the environment and protection of wildlife, and her charitable gifts reflected these concerns. Clara Niemoller’s legacy includes a generous bequest to the Colorado Mountain Club. She will be remembered fondly by her CMC friends and hiking companions.△

Clara Niemoller (far right) on a 1989 CMC trip to New Zealand. Courtesy of Marge Regal

CMC Adventure Travel For your benefit and enjoyment, the following trips have been reviewed and approved by the Adventure Travel Committee and are officially sanctioned by the Colorado Mountain Club. See cmc.org/AdventureTravel for complete trip listings, and check back often, as new trips are added by the Adventure Travel Committee throughout the year. Interested in leading an Adventure Travel Trip? Contact AdventureTravel@cmc.org for more information.

Mexican Volcanoes: Orizaba, Izta, & More December 26, 2014–January 4, 2015 Trip Leader: Dave Covill CMC Members: $1,400 Non-member Guests: $1,442 It’s back! Another CMC trip to the highest mountains in Mexico: Orizaba (18,475 feet), the third highest peak in North America and a country highpoint, is a straightforward climb on snow in good conditions. Izta (17,125 feet) has less snow climbing, but is strenuous. And we have several options for acclimatization climbs in-country: La Malinche (~14,525 feet) is a long trek with a few rocks on top. Nevado de Toluca (15,250 feet) is similar. Sierra Negra (15,025 feet) has a road to the top, with a radio dish on the summit.

with four days of guided walks to alpine and coastal regions on this beautiful island. Canyon de Chelley April 12–16 and April 16–20, 2015 Trip Leader: Janet Farrar CMC Members: $675 Non-member Guests: $695 Spend five days hiking and exploring the canyons, arches, Indian ruins, and Navajo culture in this exceptional national monument in Arizona. The hikes are rated “A” (easy) and the camping includes meals.

Yellowstone in Winter 2015 January 21–26, 2015 Trip Leaders: Vern Bass and Cindy Ward CMC Members: $1,200 Non-member Guests: $1,236

Grand Canyon Raft & Hike April 25–May 7, 2015 Trip Leaders: Blake and Rosemary Clark CMC Members: $4,465 Non-member Guests: $4,600

Steaming geysers, bison, elk, deer, and other wildlife are all part of the experience of visiting Yellowstone in winter. Skiers, snowshoers, nature lovers, and photographers will all enjoy the convenient trails leading directly from the Yellowstone Snow Lodge to the geysers and waterfalls. Enjoy all that Yellowstone has to offer...without the crowds!

The trip of a lifetime! Take a motorized raft trip and add five extra days for hiking along the way. This 12-day raft trip ends with a helicopter ride out of the canyon and a short airplane flight back to the put-in. For B & C hiking levels.

World Summit Series: Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia and Tasmania February 20–March 8, 2015 Trip Leaders: Bob and Sharon Dawson CMC Members: $2,500 Non-member guests: $2,575 Visit Sydney, then travel to Kosciuszko National Park to climb Kosciuszko—at 7,310 feet, it’s the highest peak on the Australian continent and one of the Seven Summits. Explore Tasmania

Scorpion Gulch Utah Llama Trip May 4–8, 2015 Trip Leader: Carol Kurt CMC Members: $1,596 Non-member Guests: $1,697 Enjoy five days of hiking through some of Utah’s most famed slot canyons and pristine desert. Basecamp is in a side canyon of the Escalante River in the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Llamas carry all camping gear and guides provide the meals—what more can you ask?

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Scotland’s Highland Way and Ben Nevis Climb May 13–26, 2015 Trip Leaders: Linda and David Ditchkus CMC Members: $3,040 Non-member Guests: $3,131 Hike Scotland’s West Highland Way for 95 miles beside lochs, waterfalls, and craggy mountains in the Scottish Highlands. Then climb to the summit of “the Ben” (4,409 feet), weather permitting. Although hiking will be the trip’s focus, the group will also tour medieval Edinburgh, Stirling (famous for being the home of William Wallace), the Eliean Donan Castle in the Scottish Highlands, and a Scotch distillery. Hiking & Rafting on the Yampa and Green Rivers June 8–12, 2015 Trip Leader: Patrick McKinley CMC Members: $1,312 Non-member Guests: $1,352 Five days of river rafting on the Yampa River through Dinosaur National Monument. The trip will include day hikes to historical sites, archeological sites, and other natural sites. The Yampa is the only undammed tributary of the Colorado River. Oar boats, inflatable kayaks, and paddle boats will be used. Tuscany Cycle Tour September 12–27, 2015 Trip Leader: Denise Snow

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CMC Members: $4,721 Non-member Guests: $4,863 The Tuscan countryside is in many respects a cyclist’s dream—a heady mix of vineyards, olive groves, poplars and cypresses, rolling hills, and charming medieval hill towns steeped in atmosphere and tradition. This bike tour explores the lesser known, but no less beautiful areas of Tuscany to the west of the renowned Siena region. The tour includes seven days of cycling with the opportunity to cycle three more days. In the seven cycling days we will cycle 254 miles, averaging 36 miles a day with a maximum day of 50 miles. We will have three optional days that can be used for rest, sightseeing, or cycling. Khumbu Everest Trek, with Island Peak Option September 26–October 18, 2015 Trip Leader: Pemba Sherpa CMC Members: $3,668 Non-member Guests: $3,778 This classic trek to Everest Base Camp includes climbing to Gorak Shep and Kala Patar (18,000 feet) with its stunning close-up view of Mt. Everest, as well as optional climbs of both Island Peak (20,305 feet) and Chukungukla. Other highlights include visiting Kathmandu, Namche Bazaar, Tengboche’s famous monastery, the High Himalyan Rescue Station, and Pheruche. A special visit to the village where our leader Pemba grew up culminates with having dinner with Pemba’s mother!

Khumbu Everest Trek / Island Peak Climb Armchair Adventure January 15, 7 PM Trip Leader: Pemba Sherpa Free Presentation, American Mountaineering Center Conference Room A Join Pemba Sherpa for a lively evening of Nepalese food, photos, and stories of the Khumbu Everest Base Camp trek and Island Peak climb. Pemba will lead this adventure travel trip in October 2015. Register at www.cmc.org/AdventureTravel Longtime CMC member Pemba Sherpa has led many trips to his Nepalese homeland. His trek to the Everest Base Camp, with optional Island Peak and Chukungukla, is an adventure of a lifetime—the incredible scenery and physical challenge, along with special cultural insights and personal touches (like a homemade dinner by Pemba’s mother) make this a trip of a lifetime!

“This trip is magic! The Himalayas, of course, are unsurpassed and seeing Everest from basecamp is thrilling. Summiting Island Peak—one of the premiere trekking peaks in the Himalayas—was a sensational mountaineering experience. Pemba provided us with one of the best, in-depth cultural encounters we have ever had. As a Nepalese native who is also an American citizen, Pemba has the rare qualities of knowing Nepal inside out and having the ability to understand and respond to the different needs of American visitors. This life-list trip is a must for all trekkers and mountaineers.”

Trekking in Nepal. Photo by Ann and Jim West

—Ann and Jim West, Everest & Island Peak Trekkers

Yellowstone in Winter Our trips are designed by volunteer trip leaders who love to travel to the most interesting and beautiful places in the world. Some trips, like Yellowstone in Winter, are so popular they are offered year after year, improving each time. Because of feedback from previous participants, we eliminated the long bus ride from Golden to Jackson as part of the trip fee. This year the trip will begin in Jackson, WY and trip leaders Vern Bass and Cindy Ward have arranged for reduced airfare from Denver to Jackson. Sign up today at www.cmc.org/yellowstone. “There were so many ‘best’ likes about this trip. The guides were fantastic. Very knowledgeable, safety conscious, and friendly. The wildlife was spectacular and in abundance. The scenery, watching the snow fall... Pretty much every hour of the day was a highlight. —Yellowstone in Winter participant

“It was a great trip—the weather, scenery, Snow Mountain Lodge, snowshoeing, etc. were all wonderful. Getting together for happy hour and dinner worked very well. Loved the final get together to share pictures, too.” —Yellowstone in Winter participant

Top: Vern Bass poses with a buffalo in Yellowstone. Bottom: Elk in Yellowstone. Photos by Cindy Ward

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