GENTLE GARDEN B2B SUSTAINABLE FASHION SHOWROOM
An Aesthetic Approach to Sustainable Fashion
STUDENT DATA COURSEWORK2 Business Plan Executive Report% QM Christina Thordal Andreasen BA Fashion marketing & communication Level 6, 2018-2019 6FAMN010C Business Modelling and Management CWK2 Pablo Quintano 1.742 words
TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. EXECUTIVE SUMMARY..........................................................................................................p.4 2. PROJECT RELEVANCE.......................................................................................................p.6-7 3. BUSINESS MODEL ................................................................................................................p.8-9 4. PLATFORM PROTOTYPE..............................................................................................p.10-19 5. TARGET....................................................................................................................................p.20-25 6. OBEJCTIVES................................................................................................................................p.26 7. EXPECTED OUTCOMES.................................................................................................p.28-31 8. REQUIRED INVESTMENT.............................................................................................p.32-25 9. WOW EFFECT............................................................................................................................p.36 BIBLIOGRAPHY.......................................................................................................................p.38-39 APPENDIX....................................................................................................................................p.44-55
- 1.EXECUTIVE SUMMARY Fashion and sustainability. Two highly contradicting concepts that generally have struggled in finding common grounds for each survival as we know it by 2018. However, the strongly growing domain, sustainability, is nowadays a significant influence for fashion retailing and is gradually changing ways of modern-day business. Sustainable products and retailing methods have today evolved towards increased market presence and is adopted by a rising number of retailers in line with the socio-cultural changes of rising public concern regarding CSR (Authors of Nielsen, 2014). However, retailers are by 2018 facing challenges of re-innovating the current state of consumption in order to protect profits and remain relevant within the future fashion industry (Thomsom, 2018), (Andreasen, 2018) Following report seeks to propose a coherent and forward-thinking B2B business model that encourages retailers to expand their purchasing horizon and adopt sustainable fashion through a B2B omnichannel showroom concept that offers trend-led sustainable fashion products with a keen eye for aesthetics and luxury. The proposition builds a unique eco-system between brands and retailers that helps publicise and extend the reach of the collaborating businesses to sell more and introduce new brands to their existing or potential clients. Additionally, it serves the purpose of rebranding the current consumer perception of sustainable fashion to further trendy and desirable means (Andreasen, 2018). The benefits of distributing through a commercial agency concept, exist in the fact of the continuously important role of retailers in the fashion ecosystem as they gather multiple brands into one place and eases the shopping circum-stances for both retailers and the end-consumer. The concept provides the retailers with a much-needed simplified buying experience, both eco-ethical buyers,
but additionally highly conventional stores or buyers that wish to implement more conscious products into their offering. The showroom not only serves as a valuable starting point to browse sustainable brands but functions moreover as a connection to a community of retailers and assist in gaining exposure for new and emerging brands that operate towards a further conscious and sustainable future (Andreasen, 2018).
The market of entry will be Copenhagen, and from there expand to London, Oslo and Stockholm. Included in the expansion strategy is additionally an adoption of lifestyle orientated products such as skincare, wellness or home decor matching the ethical and sustainable values. METHODOLOGY: AdHoc data results has been collected from visits, interviews, mail and skype correspond-ence with Danish retailers and local and international sustainable fashion brands. Inter-views with Danish multi-brand retailers have been conducted in Denmark in the period from the 5th February – 13th February in during meetings and visits to the stores. Inter-views with local and international brands has mainly been conducted by visits to the local Danish brands, while conversation with the international brands has been conducted main-ly per mail correspondence, skype conference calls and by store visits in Barcelona in ac-cordance to store presence. *For interview outline see Appendix Exhibit 1.
KEY WORDS SUSTAINABILITY FASHION
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RETAIL ENTRPRENUERSHIP
GENTLE GARDEN © Stine Goya
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GLOBAL MARKET OUTLOOK TRENDS INDUSTRY •
• •
•
The industry is experiencing a significant rise in consumers and a gradual increase in retailers adopting the necessary attitude towards an increasingly environmentally friendly consumer behaviour, responsible business models and sustainable products (Eder-Hansen, J., et.al., 2017 p. 10). A €160bn/year value opportunity of sustainable fashion for the world economy (Eder-Hansen, J., et.al., 2017 p. 10). Fashion industry exist as a highly considerate contributor. This aggravation of the natural sphere is considered to be intensified by 2030 to the point of threatening the entire industry growth if current trajectories of production and consumption is continued (Eder-Hansen, J., et.al., 2017 p. 10). Industry conflict between consumer wants and retail offering.
*For detailed global market outlook, see Appendix, Exhibit 2.
WHY?
LOCAL MARKET OUTLOOK: DENMARK TRENDS CONSUMER • Improved private spending power • Increasingly aware of the damages of the current state of consumption. The buy-use-dispose fashion concept relating to the progressively available fast fashion stores, has caused many of the Danish brick and mortar stores to struggle to show black numbers on the bottom line, despite the rise in Danish consumer spending over the last couple of years. • They struggle to find Danish retailers, who actually carry out a further sustainable practice • 43 % of Danish consumers want to pay more for sustainable clothing, 37% are willing to pay up to 20% more for the responsible products, 6% are willing to pay double the price (Kristensen, 2015). INDUSTRY • Industry conflict between consumer wants and retail offering. While Danish consumers are increasingly willing to upscale their spending on sustainable products, due to the rising environmental concern, many retailers predominantly operate in own economic interest to reduce their retail costs. • The objectives of consumers and retailers seem largely different, however, the environmental concern is by 2018 a highly important driver for the retailers to engage with consumers on sustainability awareness and impacts, which as a result assist the economic interest. • Muted availability and communication stream on the matter. Therefore, consumers and retailers lack knowledge of brands and products existing within the market. FASHION • Common perception of sustainable fashion that is related to the inability of sustainable brands to deliver products that follow fashion tendencies sustainable fashion brands or products have come to showcase an image of an indifferent style to actual consumer wants.
MAIN CONTEXTUAL CONSTRAINTS OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION CONSUMPTION 1. FASHION TENDENCIES AND STYLE
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2. ’MUTED’ AVAILABILITY
3. PRICING
MARKET THREATS
•
• •
MARKET OPPORTUNITIES
Consumer perception of sustainable brands inability to deliver products that follow the fashion tendencies and the undesirable clichés connected to eco-fashion. High level of competition from unsustainable fast fashion companies in terms of trendiness and price. Muted availability and limited information stream results in retailers and consumers lacking knowledge of brands and products existing within the market.
• •
•
•
•
A €160bn/year value opportunity of sustainable fashion for the world economy. Increase market awareness and normalisation on sustainable fashion, by creating a B2B space for Danish retailers to browse trendy sustainable fashion through a luxurious shopping experience. Rebranding of sustainable fashion for both retailers and consumers by initiating an increased and improved information stream on sustainable fashion, based on personal and environmental benefits of the products to compile a brand value profile. Increasing consumer willingness particularly from Millennials and Gen Z to pay more for sustainable products and services provided by environmentally and socially friendly companies. Ease the process of educating brands and in the end consumers
MARKET GAP
Market gap: The Danish market lacks a place for Danish retailers to find and connect with trendy sustainable fashion brands.
”Fashion brands and retailers are aware of their impact and ready to engage further. However, over 50 percent of the industry has not started to take action yet.”
3. B2B BUSINESS MODEL SUATINABLE SHOWROOM
CLIENTS: BRANDS, RETAILERS CLIENT MEETINGS: BIANNUAL MEETINGS MARKET COVERAGE: DENMARK (PRIMARY) , LONDON, OSLO, STOCKHOLM (SECONDARY)
EXCLUSIVE TRADE COMMUNITY OF LIKEMIDED PLAYERS
€18% COMMISION
BRANDS
ORDERS PRODUCTS
MONEY FLOW FROM FINAL RETAIL SALES
PURCHASING AND DISTRIBUTION EASE (LIMITED TRAVEL COSTS)
WHAT? 8
* Business model canvas, Appendix Exhibit 3.
GEN GARD
POSSIBLE MARKET EXPANSION: ETHICAL AND SUSTAINABLE PERSONAL CARE (SKIN CARE, WELLNESS PRODUCTS) THIS INCLUSION IS CONSIDERED AS A SECONDARY BRAND EXTENSION IN ORDER TO INCREASE BRAND OFFERING, NUMBER OF CLIENTS AND MARKET COVERAGE.
EXCLUSIVE TRADE COMMUNITY OF LIKEMIDED PLAYERS
NTLE DEN
ORDERS PRODUCTS, CATALOGUES, TRENDS
MONEY FLOW FROM FINAL RETAIL SALES
RETAILERS
€
PURCHASING AND DISTRIBUTION EASE (LIMITED TRAVEL COSTS)
* NO STOCK IS PURCHASED DIRECTLY FOR THE SHOWROOM THE MODEL IS BASED ON SALES COMMISION IN WHICH ORDERS ARE PLACED DIRECTLY FROM THE BRANDS THROUGH THE GENTLE GARDEN PLATFORM. ORDERS ARE ADDITIONALLY SENT DIRECTLY FROM BRAND TO RETAILER, AND DISTRIBUTION COSTS ARE THEREFORE LOW. HOWEVER, AN GENTLE GARDEN REPRESENTATIVE WILL BE AT THE POS TO ASSIST PROPER PRODUCT HANDLING AND SERVICE.
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4. PLATFORM PROTOTYPE LOOK/AESTHETIC
B2B SUSTAINABLE FASHION SHOWROOM 10
GENTLE
E GARDEN
An Aesthetic Approach to Sustainable Fashion 11
GENTLE GARDEN
GENTLE GARDEN
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GENTLE GARDEN
GENTLE GARDEN
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E-COMMERCE PLATFORM PROTOTYPE CONTENT GENTLE GARDEN
GENTLE GARDEN TOPS BOTTOMS DRESSES SETS ACCESSORIES SHOES MEET THE DESIGNERS TRENDS
VIRTUAL COLLECTION TOUR 360* AND 3D CATALOGUES INSPIRATION
NEWSLETTER
ABOUT GENTLE GARDEN JOIN OUR TEAM CONTACT
LEGAL & PRIVACY
MY GENTLE GARDEN HOW IT WORKS
DISTRIBUTION AND DELIVERY SERVICES
BOOK CONSULTATION
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GENTLE GARDEN
GENTLE GARDEN
IT ALL STARTS WITH A CONVERSATION Step 1 is getting to know your tastes, initial ideas and lifestyle demands. We can talk in our office, but why not book an in-home consultation; where your Personal Consultant will help evaluating your current assortment, and get the clearest understanding of your needs. DESIGNING YOUR SPACE From the first meeting, we will put together suggestions and recommendations that make the most out of your space and incorporate your ideas. We will also go through the 360* and 3D catalouges to explore the materials and silhouettes you need. SUCCESS? WE’LL LET YOU BE THE JUDGE. We don’t stop until we’ve created the selection, look or style you love, also incorporating your existing assortment . Once you’re 100% happy, we’ll order, deliver, assemble and arrange your new products – bringing the vision to life. It’s the easy way to your dream assortment and retail space.
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GENTLE GARDEN
We work with some of the most respected local and international designers within luxurious sustainable fashion and further afield. They are experts in their fields, as you would expect, however, perhaps more important is our mutual interpretation of great design: elegant, well considered products that reflect our time and improve our lives. As the creatives behind our showroom, we trust them with our life. And with over a hundred fabrics and numerous materials, colours and customisation options, you can trust our collections to enrich your store.
Designers Remix is all about a great desire to create feminine and characteristic designs. It is Charlotte Eskildsen’s mission to make women feel beautiful wearing her clothes. “I want to create forever items - fashion that women will keep in their closets for decades”. “PRELOVED REMIX” is a circular project that seeks to produce garments using minimal resources.
GG’s
& CATALOGUE
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GENTLE GARDEN SELECTION STORE Everyone wants a perfectly assorted store and our collections can help you get it, with as much (or as little) guidance as you need. From choosing a single product, to a full stock for your store. No request is too big or small. We are here to assist you.
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GENTLE GARDEN
COLLECTIONS BROWSE THROUGH THE NEW AND NEXT SEASONAL COLLECTIONS WITH YOUR PERSONAL ACCOUNT AND AND PIN POINT THE ONES MATCHING FOR YOUR STORE.
COLLECTIONS
COLLECTIONS
YOU CAN EVALUATE THE PRODUCT SELECTION AND COMMENT ON CATEGORIES YOU WOULD LIKE TO SEE MORE FROM.
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EXPERIENCE OUR ASSORTMENT PIECE FOR PIECE AND BY BRANDS AND BRAND EXCLUSIVE COMBINATIONS THROUGH A VIRTUAL TOUR IN OUR SHOWROOM. CLICK HERE. YOUR ARE ABLE TO CLICK DIRECTLY AT THE ITEM OF INTEREST AND SAVE IT ON YOUR PERSONAL ACCOUNT WHERE THE BRANDS AFTERWARDS WILL BE GATHERED IN A CUSTOMISED CATALOGUE FOR YOUR STORE.
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5. TARGET The business proposal generally seeks to create value for a niche market of sustainable fashion brands and further main-stream multi-brand retailers through a relational approach.The business targets clients within a B2B environment.
PRIMARY TARGET Primarily, the concept targets international fashion brands with eye for an aestethic and luxurious approach towards sustainability. The primary target additioanlly include Danish mid-market to luxury style-conscious multi-brand retailers that whishes to include trendy and fashionable sustainable products within their assortment. SECONDARY TARGET Secondarily, the concept expands the target reach to likeminded multi-brand retailers located in respectively, London, Oslo and Stockholm. * See Require Investment for projected number of clients from 2020-2022.
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3. OSLO, NORWAY 2. LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM
4. STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN 1. COPENHAGEN, DENMARK
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CLIENTS BRAND PERSONA
© Stine Goya
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S
SOPHISTICATED & SUSTAINABLE BRANDS OUTLINE Rooted in the Skandinavian perception of luxury fashion. A brand that is all about a great desire to create feminine and characteristic designs. Believes that every day can be a joy. It comes from within and it’s about feeling beautiful. With a mission to make women feel beautiful wearing her clothes and wants to create forever items - fashion that women will keep in their closets for decades Fashion made for positive, sophisticated women with poise and power. It’s for curious women with a lust for life, and a willingness to explore own contradictions.
NEEDS
Need to look trendy and fashionable, while being responsible for own consumption and footprint. Needs a community or social gathering of likeminded individuals in which they can share their desire to make a better industry.
POSITIVE TRENDS Increased focus on female empowering, sustainability and responsible consumption and social conditions and human rights within the fashion industry. Additionally, she finds it positive that the genereal fashion consumption increasingly is in search of a new kind of cool.
BEHAVIOUR She highly operates according to openness, politeness and responsibility. She is curious, positive and sophiticated and wants to be a powerful voice for women. She has a lust for life and a willingness to explore own contradicti-
FRUSTATIONS
Frustrated about the current environmental circumstances and social order. Additionally, a frustation exist in the lack of sustainable adoption from retailers within the Danish fashion industry and how to help that.
HOPES
CONCERNS
Concerned about the environment and social conditions and fights to find a way to help reducing the damages that has already been made by the industry.
She hopes for a more socially concerned world structure and further environmental approach to consumption and lifestyle. She hopes to inspire women, who dare to take an unconventional stance on style.
(Andreasen, 2018)
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CLIENTS RETAILER PERSONA
STOY store in Aarhus. © STOY.
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STYLE CONSCIOUS RETAILERS
OUTLINE STOY is a leading multibrand store with an international outlook. STOY is a natural centre for fashion, culture and development, pushed forward by an engaging workforce in-theknow who takes active part in the city surrounding the store. With biannual trips to Paris, London, Berlin and New York our buyers constantly search for the very best item the fashion world has to offer, and bring them home to our customers. Centrally located in Aarhus, Denmark.
NEEDS
Need to look trendy and fashionable with high emphasis on quality, luxury, trends and newness. It is additionally relfected in the everyday lifestyle of eating habits, home decor and technological purchases.
POSITIVE TRENDS Strongly supporting the streetstyle movement through its style of clothing and on social media. Another important positive trends is the increasing focus on the environmental circumstances, and how this can be helped through more sustainable fashion products.
CONCERNS
Concerned about how to help creating a better worls, but at the same time keeping the trendy and fashionable style.
BEHAVIOUR
Highly belives in personal relations and connections with likeminded individuals. Travel therefore becoms a natural part of this behaviour due to the curiousity and international interest in fashion and culture.
FRUSTATIONS
Frustrated about the current environmental circumstances, and is open to adopt a further sustainable lifestyle especially in relation to fashion. However, it is complicated to find desireable sustainable fashion within the danish retail market.
HOPES
Hopes to help in creating a more socially concened world structureand further environmental approach to consumption and lifestyle.
(Andreasen, 2018)
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6. OBJECTIVES
OVERALL PROJECT QUESTION How might Danish fashion retailers be provided with quality and fashionable sustainable apparel?
OBJECTIVES
SUCCESS CRITERIA
Increase implementation of sustainable fashion within the retail market.
A fashionable-lise the consumer perception on sustainable fashion.
Rebrand the consumer perception of sustainable fashion
Increase clients sales on sustainsble fashion.
Assist multi-brand retailers in meeting actual consumer wants. Scalable profit gain within the first three years of business.
(Andreasen, 2018)
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Keep multi-brand retailers up to date with the most fashionable sustinable apparel by continuosly reviewing the showroom inventory and sales to adjust the inventory levels accordingly.
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7. EXPECTED OUTCOMES
PROJECTED VALUE PROPOSITION VALUE FOR BRANDS
Offering an eased way for new market entry and strategic sales increase (sparring partner for expansion, growth and exposure within new markets). Additionally, the showroom assist in rebranding the sustainable brands under a trendy and fashionable community of likeminded retailers and brands (Andreasen, 2018).
Š Stine Goya
VALUE FOR RETAILERS
Š Ganni. Flagship store CPH.
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Offering a distinct mix of elements of value to the targeted multi-brand retailer such as, the service of a simplified buying process for sustainable fashion as a connection between brand and retailer. As for products, the showroom offers a connection to new, trendy and, for the individual retailer, often unapproachable sustainable fashion brands and products. Products are additionally selected to match a broad price range from mass- and midmarket to luxury price-points, as it is considered a significant driver to increase the sustainable consumption of the average consumer. The value for retailers are furthermore generated from a personalised assortment offerings based upon customer centric data from the Gentle Garden platform and bi-annual selling event that ensures the client a marketing and communication 4.0 omnichannel approach to traditional buying processes. The retailer both experience the products physically through the sellings events as well as online through digital 360* and 3D catalogues. Gentle Garden functions as a supplier of desired consumer-centric products, while assisting in broadening customer audience (Andreasen, 2018).
VALUE FOR CONSUMERS Increased retail offering and strong availability of trendy sustainable fashion in line with actual and increasing consumer wants. Increased awareness and focus regarding responsible consumption and assumingly a further break with the current state of purchasing fashion (Andreasen, 2018).
Š Stine Goya
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REVENUE PROFIT PROJECTIONS (3-YEAR PROJECTION)
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1ST YEAR EVALUATION The three projected start-up years 2020-2022, show a initial need for financial loan or investment support the first year (2020) that shows a profit loss of €31.117 with limited client and market coverage (international and local brands, however, only danish multi-brand retailers (number of brands (15 ), number of retailers (12))
2ND YEAR EVALUATION Second year (2021), shows rising revenues and lower profit loss (€700) due to market expansion to seconday targets in London, United Kingdom and Oslo, Norway. The customer’s of Gentle Garden the second year include, brands (15), retailers (25).
3RD YEAR EVALUATION
The final of the three projected years, 2022, shows a profit of €57.151, due to further market expansion to Stockholm, Sweden, and therefore rise in clients that for the third year include 19 brands, 31 retailers. Third year additionally include further sustainable lifestyle products multi-brand concept stores.
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8. REQUIRED INVESTMENTS PLANNING CLIENT TARGETING
TIME
January 2020 - onwards: Local and internation brands & Danish retailers January 2021 - onwards: Local and international brands & retailers in London January 2022 - onwards: Local and internation brand & retailers in Oslo & Stockholm
ACTION
Initial meetings, concept and sales pitches with international and local clients. Contracts and commision negotiations. Constant client targeting and bi-annual client meetings for evaluation and status purposes.
CATEGORY
Sales & Marketing, Sustainability evaluation.
WEBSITE DEVELOPMENT
GENTLE GARDEN
TIME
ACTION
January 2020 (Full website development) Ongoing technical support.
Website and community creation. Online platform benchmarking and content evaluation. Brand identity visual formulation and technical implementation of communication and marketing 4.0. Constant website handling and bi-annually assortment updates.
CATEGORY
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Research and business development.
DIGITAL COMMUNICATION AND ADVERTISING TIME
April 2020 - onwards: Public digital presence is initiated along with first client contracts.
ACTION
Digital marketing and communication planning, social media concept creation and content strategy. Brand ambassadors, Newsletter, Website client accounts and personalised promotional client content.
CATEGORY
Research, Business development and digital content planning.
ASSORTMENT SHOOTING & EVENT ORGANISATION TIME
2020 September: รณne selling event for spring/ summer 2021. 2021 January (Fall/Winter 2021) & September (Spring/Summer 2022): Bi-annual in relation to seasonal collection shootings. 2022 January (Fall/Winter 2022) & September (Spring/Summer 2023): Bi-annual in relation to seasonal collection shootings
ACTION
Gentle Garden operate 1-2 seasons ahead. Samples delivery, Seasonal assortment photoshoot and video production website content, Selling event concept creation, Client invites, Planning and organisation.
CATEGORY
Organisation, Planning, Research and Production
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REQUIRED INVESTMENTS NUMBERS - 2020
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REQUIRED INVESTMENTS NUMBERS - 2021
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REQUIRED INVESTMENTS NUMBERS - 2022
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9. WOW EFFECT
OVERVIEW An aesthetic, luxurious and trendy B2B showroom with desirable sustainable fashion for retailers to implement in their product offering. The proposition builds a unique eco-system between brands and retailers that helps publicise and extend the reach of the collaborating businesses to sell more and introduce new brands to their existing or potential clients. Additionally, it serves the purpose of rebranding the consumer perception of sustainable fashion to further trendy and desirable means (Andreasen, 2018).
EXPERIENCE Unique client-centric and personalised omnichannel buying and distribution experience with a highly luxurious, aestethic and technological (marketing and communication 4.0 implementation) approach to sustainable fashion. The brand experience bridges operational tasks with an exclusive and conveinient community space of likeminded retailers and brands, sparring partner for expansion, growth and exposure within new markets (Andreasen, 2018).
VALUES FASHIONABLE SUSTAINABILITY Aesthetic, Trendy and Luxurious, Environmental Kindness INNOVATIVE Digitalised omni-channel and simplified buying experience, convenient COMMUNITY Supplier, Assistant for Growth and Exposure, Establishing Connections, Creates an Unique Eco-System between Brands and Retailers
* For further explanation of brand values see Appendix, Exhibit 4, 4.1. BRAND PROMISE An aesthetic and unique appraoch to susatinable fashion of exclusive, trendy and stylish products. Simplified, exclusive and personalised buying process that focus on consumer- and client-centri metrics and cares for each client’s specific need, space management and store aesthetic.
THE WOW EFFECT
A forward thinking premium omnichannel and solution orientated technologial execution Exclusive, curious and innovative community of likeminded brands and retailers A constant ly improving loyal sparring partner for strategic guidance, assortment supply, growth and exposure. Social and environmental kindness in a colourful, bold and quality dress far from fast-fashion and undesirable clichĂŠs connected to eco-fashion.
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GENTLE GARDEN © Stine Goya
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- BIBLIOGRAPHY Andreasen, C. (2018), ’Gentle Garden, Sustainable fashion showroom” CWK1 Business Modelling and Management. IED Unpublished Report. 9pr.dk, (2018), “The Philosophy”, (Online). 9PR. Available from: http://www.9pr.dk (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Anotherview.dk, (2018), “Another View, Sustainable living”, (Online). Anotherview.dk. Available from:http:// anotherview.dk (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Authors of Business of Fashion, (N/A), “Eva Kruse”, (Online). Business of Fashion. Available from:https:// www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/eva-kruse (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Authors of HAY, (2018) “HAY Furniture Environmental Profile”. (Online). HAY. Available from: https://hay.dk/globalassets/media/b2b/diverse/hay-environmental-profile.pdf (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Authors of Nielsen (2014), “Doing Well By doing Good”, (Online). The Nielsen Company. Available from: https://www.nielsen.com/content/dam/nielsenglobal/apac/docs/reports/2014/Nielsen-Global-Corporate-Social-Responsibility-Report-June-2014.pdf (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Authors of Nielsen, (2015) “The Sustainability Imperative”, (Online). The Nielsen Company. pp 1 – 17. Available from:https://www.nielsen.com/content/dam/nielsenglobal/dk/docs/global-sustainability-report-oct-2015.pdf (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Authors of Retail News, (2018), “Danskerne om bæredygtighed: Det er vores ansvar” (translated: ”The Danes on Sustainability: It is our responsibility”), (Online). Retail News. Available from: https://www.retailnews.dk/article/view/607885/danskerne_om_baeredygtighed_det_er_vores_ansvar (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Beard, N. D. (2015). “The Branding of Ethical Fashion and the Consumer: A Lux- ury Niche or Mass-market Reality?” (Online). Chapter: Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. Bloomsbury Publishing. Vol. 12, Iss: 4, pp. 447-467. Available from: DOI: 10.2752/175174108X346931 (Accessed 23rd March 2019) BoConcept.com. (2019). “Interior Design Service”. (online) BoConcept. Available from: https://www.boconcept.com/es-es/ (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Burberry.com. (2019). “Women’s coats and jackets”. (online). Burberry. Available from: https://us.burberry.com/womens-coats-jackets/?order_by=numprop%3Aascending%3Aprice (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Cartner-Morley, J. (2018). Stella McCartney: ‘Only 1% of clothing is recycled. What are we doing?’. (Online).
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The Guardian. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/apr/18/stella-mccartney-designer-ethical-fashion-interview (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Connell, K., Kozar, J. (2012) ”Sustainability knowledge and behaviors of apparel and textile undergraduates”,(Online). International Journal of Sustainability in Higher Education, Vol. 13 Issue: 4, pp.394-407. Available from:https://doi.org/10.1108/14676371211262335 (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Dalgaard, M., (2018), “Selv om vi bruger flere penge, har hver tredje detailvirksomhed underskud: »Det er et hårdt marked«” (translated: ”Even though we spend more money, every third retail business has a deficit: ”It’s a tough market””) (Online). Berlingske. Available from: https://www.berlingske.dk/virksomheder/selv-om-vi-bruger-flere-penge-har-hver-tredje-detailvirksomhed (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Eder-Hansen, J., et.al. (2017), ”Pulse of the fashion industry”, (Online). Global Fashion Agenda & The Boston Consulting Group. pp. 2-72. Available from: https://globalfashionagenda.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/Pulse-of-the-Fashion-Industry_2017.pdf (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Fano, E., (2015), ”Brand Management Part 1”, (Online). Edoardo Fano. IED Barcelona. Available from: http://moodleiedbarcelona.es/moodle/file.php/272/Brand-Management-2017-ilovepdf-compressed-_2_-1-111.pdf (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Kristensen, M., (2015) “Næsten hver anden dansker vil købe bæredygtigt tøj “(translated: “Almost every other Danes will buy sustainable clothes”. (Online). CSR.dk. Available from: https://csr.dk/næsten-hver-anden-dansker-vil-købe-bæredygtigt-tøj (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Mountagency.com. (2018). “Mount Agency profile”. (Online). Mount Agency. Available from: https://www.mount.agency/profile/ (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Pasquinelli, I., (2013), “Sustainable fashion design: learning from Denmark’s example”. (Online). The Guardinan. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/blog/sustainable-fashion-design-denmark (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Social-zoo.com, (2018), “About us”, (Online). Social Zoo. Available from: http://social-zoo.com/about-us/ (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Stinegoya.com. (2019). ”Stine Goya”. (Online). Stine Goya. Available from: https://stinegoya.com (Accessed 23rd March 2019) Thomsom, R., (2018), “Sustainability is no longer optional for fashion retail”, (Online). Drapers. Available from:https://www.drapersonline.com/news/comment/sustainability-is-no-longer-optional-for-fashion-retail/7031058.article (Accessed 23rd March 2019)
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- APPENDIX -
EXHIBIT 1. AdHoc Research Interview Outline
ADHOC RESEARCH: 16 in-depth brand and retail interviews constructed according to the SPIN model. OVER ALL PROJECT QUESTION: How might Danish fashion retailers be provided with quality and fashionable sus-tainable apparel? METHODOLOGY: AdHoc data results has been collected from visits, interviews, mail and skype correspond-ence with Danish retailers and local and international sustainable fashion brands. Inter-views with Danish multi-brand retailers have been conducted in Denmark in the period from the 5th February – 13th February in during meetings and visits to the stores. Inter-views with local and international brands has mainly been conducted by visits to the local Danish brands, while conversation with the international brands has been conducted main-ly per mail correspondence, skype conference calls and by store visits in Barcelona in ac-cordance to store presence. RETAILERS SITUATION QUESTIONS Stage 1: How would you describe your current situation in relation to sustainable fashion? Do you get in contact with sustainable brands? And how? Are you already including fashionable sustainable brands in your product of-fering? And which ones? What kind of browsing for new brands do you use and is it easy to locate trendy fashionable sustainable products for your store? How important do you think it is to include fashionable sustainable fashion? Are there any areas of opportunity for improvement with your current sup-plier or method of sourcing? How many sustainable fashion brands are you in contact with or considering for your store? Stage 2: Am I right in thinking that you would like to both see and feel the products before buying them and that it often is too expensive to travel to fairs and fashion weeks? When did you first notice a consumer interest in sustainable products? Has a number of customers in your store been wishing for or commenting on the need for sustainable products? PROBLEM QUATIONS How often do costumers ask for sustainable products? How do you find sustainable fashion products matching the needs of your store? And what brands might that be? What brands do you aspire to include in your store? How long does it take for you to receive your products in store? And is the supplier service efficient to respond to break downs or problems with the products? Do you have one service supplier or is it provided by each brand stocked in the store? Who usually has to deal with the problem?
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IMPLICATION QUESTIONS How has that problem impacted you? Have you experienced any decrease in sales, online following or store visits due to this issue? How has the lack of industry communication or product availability affected your staff when advising customers from day to day? Has this meant that customers have left the store without buying? Lead-up questions What effect does that have on your image and sales? How often does that cause customers to leave the store? Does that ever lead to expensive travels to fashion weeks and fairs to source products? NEED/PAYOFF QUESTION If this problem could be solved, what would be the benefit to your company? How much time could you save if you used a B2B service company that looked after your ordering of sustainable fashion for you? Would it be useful to have a local service offering the best and most trendy and up-coming national and international sustainable brands, connecting you with cele-brated designers, instead of taking expensive trips to foreign countries? If you could decrease the number of missed customers due to lack of sustainable fashion, how many additional sales do you think you could make in a year? Would you receive positive recognition from your target market by including fash-ion that is both environmental, ethical, ‘trend’ and luxury friendly? Would you like to be connected to a community of like-minded retailers and brands? And would you like to join exclusive events and dinners with designers and retailers. Additional questions to extend value Is there any other way this would help you? Besides saving costs, would the service also enhance your image? What other benefits would you see coming from this solution?
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BRANDS SITUATION QUESTIONS Stage 1: How would you describe your current situation? How do you get in contact with sustainable multi-brand retailers? Is it easy for you to get in contact with the right distributor/POS in Denmark? Are you already included in any Danish multi-brand retail store and would you like to be included? What would it mean for you to be able to reach the Danish fashion market? And would you be interested in distributing your products through special-ised, mid-market-luxury multi-brand retailers? Are there any areas of opportunity for improvement with your current agent or connector to foreign markets? Stage 2: Am I right in thinking that you would like to expand to countries such as Denmark, being a frontrunner on many areas regarding sustainability and more responsible consumption? When did you first notice a consumer interest in sustainable products? Have any retailers from Denmark contacted you to stock your products in their store and what was your response? If you have not wished to distribute your products in the proposed multi-brand stores, what was your reason for that decision? Have you received or met any consumer wishes for having your products in Denmark? PROBLEM QUATIONS How often do Danish retailers visit, consider or order your products for their store? How do you find retailers matching the needs of your design and products? And what retailers might that be? What type of retailer do you aspire to include your products in store? IMPLICATION QUESTIONS How has is impacted you not to be present in Denmark or in Danish multi-brand store? How has the lack of industry communication and product availability of sustainable fashion affected your brand image? Has this meant that customers have little awareness and knowledge of your brand? What effect does that have on your image and sales? NEED/PAYOFF QUESTION If this problem could be solved, what would be the benefit to your company? How much time could you save if you used a B2B service company that looked after your multi-brand retail sales in Denmark? Would you be interested in expanding the concept to Oslo, Stockholm and London? Would it be useful to have a local service offering the best and most celebrated multi-brand POS connecting you with valued retailers? How many additional sales do you think you could make in a year when using such a service? Would you receive positive recognition from your target market and leads by ex-panding and including your products to the Danish fashion market? Would you like to be connected to a community of like-minded retailers and brands? And would you like to join exclusive events and dinners with other design-ers and retailers.
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Additional questions to extend value Is there any other way this service would help you? Besides saving costs, would the service also enhance your image? What other benefits would you see coming from this solution?
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EXHIBIT 2. Global and local market outlook. GLOBAL MARKET OUTLOOK/TRENDS
(Projected gloal fashion consumption (Million tons)
Figure 3. Projected Environmental Impacts Increasing fashion consumption is creating further environmental stress. (Eder-Hansen, J., et.al., 2017 p.10) © Global Fashion Agenda and Boston Consulting Group.
Figure 4. The Value Opportunity of Sustainable Fashion to the World Economy. A Value of €160bn per Year Is at Stake. (Eder-Hansen, J., et.al., 2017 p.20) © Global Fashion Agenda and Boston Consulting
Recent decades have shown the fashion industry as an engine for global development. As one of the largest consumer industries employing nearly 60 million people along its value chain, the fashion sphere generated in 2016, €1.5 trillion in annual revenues with regard to the two main fashion categories, apparel and footwear. One of the main contributing factors to these excessive industry revenues owes to the cultural phenomenon of fast fashion functioning under the pretence of following fashion tendencies. A system simply initiated by large retailers in order to increase revenues. Principally, this quick response business model pushes an increased and unrestrained consumption behaviour based on trends, low price setting and pleasure.
ditions suffer from a great pressure and lack of compliance with political ambitions for sustainable development, to which the fashion industry exist as a highly considerate contributor. This aggravation of the natural sphere is considered to be intensified by 2030 to the point of threatening the entire industry growth if current trajectories of production and consumption is continued (Eder-Hansen, J., et.al., 2017 p. 10), (Figure 3, Projected global fashion consumption). The fashion industry is evidently not performing as well as needed on the matter of sustainability and to continue growth trajectory it must see to address its extensive environmental and social footprint. Despite the rather negative business outlook, the industry is experiencing a significant rise in consumers and However, the externalities that this system produces are vast. a gradual increase in retailers adopting the necessary atAs an outcome, the earth’s natural resources and social con- titude towards an increasingly environmentally friendly
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Figure 5. Retail Environmental, Social and Ethical Impact Areas to Consider (Eder-Hansen, J., et.al., 2017 p.53) Š Global Fashion Agenda and Boston Consulting Group.
consumer behaviour, responsible business models and merely sustainable products. This further sustainable market interest in fashion is by GFA (Global Fashion Agenda) and BCG (Boston Consulting Group), stated to represents a value opportunity of â‚Ź160 billion per year for the world economy and can become a realization through a more innovative utilization of scarce resources in the value chain and consumption of sustainable fashion. This annual â‚Ź160 billion upside, answers to approximately 11% of the current retail value or 90% of the current profit pool of the global apparel and footwear sector (Eder-Hansen, J., et.al., 2017 p.20). This industry conflict between consumer wants and retail offering is additionally present in the Danish retail market. It is by 2018 a retail market, in which brick-and-mortar stores are suffering, despite great economic upturn. Even though the Danish consumers are in possession of an improved private spending power, they are increasingly aware of the damages of the current state of consumption. The buy-use-dispose fashion concept relating to the progressively available fast fashion stores, has caused many of the Danish brick and mortar stores to struggle to show black numbers on the bottom line, despite the rise in Danish consumer spending over the last couple of years. According to a survey, examining the annual accounts of 6.622 Danish retail companies by the Danish bank Spar Nord, (Dalgaard, 2018) Danes simultaneously turn to online platforms such as Zalando and Amazon, as they struggle to find Danish retailers, who actually carry out a further sustainable practice. Additionally, a study from the Danish dairy company Arla from 2018 on Danish knowledge about sustainability and behaviour in everyday life, shows that while the concept of sustainability fills the consciousness of the
Danish consumers and the market experience increasing interest conscious products, they struggle on how to actually implement a more sustainable lifestyle and understand what sustainability really implies (Authors of Retail News, 2018). (Kristensen, 2015) Nevertheless, a 2015 study by Epinion for Deloitte shows that 43% of Danish consumers want to pay more for sustainable clothing and 37% are even willing to pay up to 20% more for the responsible products, while 6% are willing to pay double the price. While Danish consumers are increasingly willing to upscale their spending on sustainable products due to the rising environmental concern, many retailers predominantly operate in their economic interest to reduce their retail consumption. The objectives of consumers and retailers seem largely different, however, the environmental concern is by 2018 a highly important driver for the retailers to engage with consumers on sustainability awareness and impacts, which as a result assist the economic interest. (Eder-Hansen, J., et.al., 2017 p.54), Encouraging moves especially seen from the international luxury group Kering as well as the fast fashion giant Inditex, who both have invested excessively in renewable energy and eco-efficient stores since 2014.
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”FASHION BRANDS AND RETAILERS ARE AWARE OF THEIR IMPACT AND READY TO ENGAGE FURTHER.” ”HOWEVER OVER 50 PERCENT OF THE INDUSTRY HAS NOT STARTED TO TAKE ACTION YET.” (Eder-Hansen, J., et.al., 2017 pp.70-72)
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LOCAL MARKET OUTLOOK: DENMARK
Both the Danish and global fashion industry is by 2018 facing the challenges of adapting sustainable methods that answer to both current and future external and internal factors of consumption. Today, externalities are mainly given by factors such as environmental and social responsibility, while the internalities are determined by price, availability, tendencies and style. An innovative business method, therefore, requests a merging of such factors providing the general consumer with an alternative to the current purchasing pattern of mass consumption. Sustainability additionally matches the Danish ethos, as it builds on social values such as equal rights and opportunities, honesty and collaboration, all factors that are well ingrained in the Danish society that from the base of the Danish welfare state (Pasquinelli, 2013). In order to propose such a method to the Danish market, emphasis must especially be given to the internal contextual forces that consequently creates the basis for the possibility of inclusion of the external factors, if appealed to correctly. Three key contextual constraints that influence the current methods of Danish retailers and purchasing pattern of Danish consumers exist in fashion tendencies and style, ‘muted’ availability and price. The former, fashion tendencies and style, is a common perception of sustainable fashion that is related to the inability of sustainable brands to deliver products that follow fashion tendencies. This perception is additionally strengthened by the undesirable clichés connected to eco-fashion such as “crochet your own sweater and carry a hemp bag” (Cartner-Morley, 2018), which consequently lead consumers to turn to further trend-led, yet highly environmentally destructive fast-fashion companies. On the contrary to consumption under the context of fast fashion brands (mainly driven by pleasure rather than fulfil-
ling a need) sustainable fashion brands or products have come to showcase an image of an indifferent style to actual consumer wants. (Beard, 2008) This particularly happens as online searches for eco- or sustainable fashion predominantly showcase a highly casual style and might exist as the cause of association with unfashionable products or the inability to satisfy certain style demands of consumers. Secondly one of the most common contextual constraints connected to sustainable fashion brands or products is the ‘muted’ availability and communication stream on the matter and therefore consumers and retailers lack knowledge of brands and products existing within the market. As both Danish retailers and consumers are uninformed on the further sustainable market alternatives both parties find difficulty in adopting this further sustainable approach. The Danish market, therefore, exists in a sustainable grey-zone in which retailers find no substantial point of browsing trendy, yet responsible products and as a result, consumers find it challenging to purchase such apparel since there are few mainstream retailers including such products in their inventory (Connell and Kozar 2012). The later of the three key contextual forces, pricing, still exist as a challenge to the Danish market, despite the previously mentioned studies showing that nearly half of Danish consumers are willing to invest more in sustainable products. The challenge of pricing go hand in hand with the current consumer perception of sustainable fashion’s inability to follow trends and consistently communicate a fashionable way of consumption. All market challenges, however, include great innovation and growth opportunities (see p.14) that create the foundation for the following business proposal.
MAIN CONTEXTUAL CONSTRAINTS OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION CONSUMPTION 1. FASHION TENDENCIES AND STYLE
2. ’MUTED’ AVAILABILITY
3. PRICING
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EXHBIT 3: BUSINESS MODEL CANVAS
KEY PARTNERS
KEY ACTIVITIES
VALUE PROPOSITION
Key partners include :
Marketing and communication: Effecttive
For brands: Offering an eased market entry and increase. Addishowroom assist in sustainable brands and fashionable
Financial: Investors, Sustainability certifications (positive Luxury Butterfly Mark, Fair Trade), Website designer (Mount Agency) Marketing and communication: Start-up: Operated internally. Future: Creative communication agencies such as Danish Social Zoo for events and influencer marketing. Distribution and sales: Delivery companies of individual brand preferrence for import of international shipping and domestic truck delivery to retailers. Key partners in sales include, strategic alliances with the largest clients offline and online (such as Illum or Magasin Du Nord in Denmark) that hold great multi-brand fashion departments of similar price points and a financially stable audience. Moreover this partnership seeks to reduce risk if meeting enexpected resistance from smaller independent fashion retailers in implementing the sustainable fashion products. Buying: Brand middlemen/agents that connects the showroom representative with the clients.
lines of online and offline communication with target market (social media, collaborating events) and clients (brands and retailers) to ensure market presence.
Distribution and sales: Client targeting and meetings.
Customer relationships: Connect with brands
and retailers in order to identify the existing pain points and figure out how to fill this hole. Assortment selection: Selection of brands included in the showroom offering, measuring clients level of sustainability and quality control.
KEY RESOURCES
Physical resources: Materials utilized online showroom. Intellectural resources: Inverstors Human resources: The work force of the company, with special empahsis on sales traning. Financial resources: The support given by investors and the clients (brands and retailers).
For retailers: Offering a distinct of value to the Daretailer such as, a simplified buysustainable fashion between brand and products, the showconnection to new, the individual retaitainable sustainable and products. Protionally selected price-point, as it is significant driver sustainable conaverage consumer. For consumers: Increased retail ofavailability of trenfashion in line with creasing consumer Increased aware-
COST STRUCTURE
Main cost sources: Investment costs: Technical devices Recurring costs: Marketing & communication, B2B payment platform (NuOrder), Office and related costs, targeting clients.
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way for new strategic sales tionally, the rebranding the under a trendy community. mix of elements nish multi-brand the service of ing process for as a connection retailer. As for room offers a trendy and, for ler, often unobfashion brands ducts are addito match a fairconsidered an to increase the sumption of the
fering and strong dy sustainable actual and inwants. ness and focus
CUSTOMER RELATIONSHIP
CUSTOMER SEGMENTS
Customer relationship with brands: Serves as a connection to a community of likeminded retailers and brands, sparring partner for expansion, growth and exposure within new markets.
The business proposal generally seeks to create value for a niche market of sustainable fashion brands and further main-stream multi-brand retailers through a relational approach. The approach builds bridge between niche and mass market.
Customer relationship with retailers: Serves as a connection to a community of likeminded retailers and brands, simplified buying experience and process, supplier of desired consumer-centric products, assist in broadening customer audience.
DISTRIBUTION CHANNELS
Customer segments are reached through: Online: Primary online B2B platform and social media. Offline: Exclusive bi-annual selling events Awareness: Instagram, Facebook, Youtube, Twitter, Events in collaboration with Danishcreative agencies such as Social Zoo. Evaluation: Mail, Social media Purchase: Website and selling events Delivery: Delivery from international brands by shipping. Domestic delivery by truck to retailers. Post purchase support: Meetings, Website (live chat), Mail.
Clients: Sustainable fashion brands (International and local) Includes brands such as: Stella McCartney, Mother of pearl, Bite, Reformation, ByTiMo, Fonnesbech, Designers Remix, ArtFusion Copenhagen, Stine Goya. Multi-brand retailers Primary: (Danish), such as FF2, STĂ˜Y, Birger Christensen, OZ Women, Storm , Holly Golightly, Lot #29, Wood Wood, Companys, Collage the shop, Illum, Magasin du nord. Secondary, longterm (expansion): Multi-brand retailers from (London, Oslo, Stockholm)
REVENUE STREAMS
Business revenue streams are expected from: 1. 18% sales commission.
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EXHBIT 4: BUSINESS IDENTITY KAPFERER BRAND PRISM HONEST
HAPPINESS
INNOVATOR
BEAUTIFUL
TRENDY FASHION APPAREL
CURIOUS
QAULITY PRODUCTS
PHYSICAL
CONCERNED WITH THE ENVIRONMENT
TRENDY RESPONSIBLE
SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTS
PERSONALITY
TRUST INTERNATONAL WITH A TOUCH OF SCANDI CHIC STYLE
COMMUNITY
CUSTOMIZED ADVICE
EXTERNALISATION
GENTLE GARDEN
LISTENING
INTERNALISATION
B2B SUSTAINABLE FASHION SHOWROOM
EXPERTISE
EXOTICISM
POSITIVE CHANGE
REFLECTION
SELF-IMAGE
SOCIAL A MATURE PERSON
ECONOMIC FLEXIBILITY STYLE ORIENTATED
BEAUTIFUL CONFIDENT
FEEL GOOD ABOUT ONE SELF ENVIRONMENTAL FRIENDLY
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RESPONSIBLE
MATURE
Brand Exploitation
RESPONSIBLE INNOVATION
TRAVEL
4.1 PYRAMID OF VALUES
TOP OF PYRAMID The top of the pyramid gives emphasis to the persona of this business proposal and serves the purpose of visualizing the uniqueness to the brand. Factors of high importance in this field include friendliness, creativity, responsibility, fashionable, luxurious, trendiness.
MID-SECTION OF PYRAMID The mid-section of the pyramid is dedicated to understanding both the beliefs and functionalities of the showroom. Included in this section is beliefs such as convenient, simplified buying experience, connector, leadership, supplier, community, beautiful aesthetics.
BOTTOM OF PYRAMID Finally in the bottom of the pyramid treats of the tangible attributes and elements of the showroom. Included here is assistant for growth and exposure, establishing connections, creates a unique eco-system between brands and retailers, simplifying tasks, community.
TRENDY LUXURIOUS FRIENDLINESS FASHIONABLE RESPONSIBILITY SUSTAINABILITY CREATIVITY
VALUES
LEADERSHIP COMMUNITY CONVENIENT CONNECTOR BEAUTIFUL AESTHETICS SIMPLIFIED BUYING EXPERIENCE
FUNCTIONALITIES COMMUNITY SIMPLIFYING TASKS ESTABLISHING CONNECTIONS ASSISTANT FOR GROWTH AND EXPOSURE CREATES A UNIQUE ECO-SYSTEM BETWEEN BRANDS AND RETAILERS
ATTRIBUTES
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GENTLE GARDEN B2B SUSTAINABLE FASHION SHOWROOM
An Aesthetic Approach to Sustainable Fashion 58