Seoul Food
서울푸드 Seeking Authenticity in the Social Media Era
Seoul Food
Seoul Food
서울푸드 Seeking Authenticity in the Social Media Era
Christina Han
Food in the Home
Food in the Media
Food for the Soul
Bibliography
Acknowledgments
15 십 오
27 이 십 칠
81 팔 십 일
104 백 사
110 백 십
Food in the Home
FOOD IN THE HOME
16 ě‹ ěœĄ
Half a century ago, Seoul was at the heart of a nation that had been ravaged and split apart by war, which caused malnutrition and poor eating habits. Although Seoul entered the modern era as a war-torn capital, it underwent one of the fastest periods of industrialization in human history to emerge as a modern metropolis. As the average income rose in the 70s, eating habits also improved, and as Korea began to modernize in the 80s, people’s attitudes toward eating started to change. Hosting the 1986 Asian Games and 1988 Olympics allowed Seoul to be on the fast track towards modern tourism and food culture. The roots of the modern food culture began to form as people began to perceive food not as a necessity, but as a luxury. Eating out was not something people regularly enjoyed until the recent years. Eating at home with the family is deeply ingrained in Korean culture. The Korean word for family, shikgoo, literally means those who eat together. Families usually shared meals at home with home cooked Korean dishes. Although more restaurants opened up in the 90s, the food choices were limited to mostly Korean cuisine with some Western, Chinese and Japanese options. In those early years, convenience and taste were the two most important factors in choosing where to eat. According to a survey done in 1994
Top U.S. marines on the shattered streets of Seoul, South Korea, in September 1950. Bottom Typical family dinner scene from a movie
FOOD IN THE HOME
FOOD IN THE HOME
Families usually shared meals at home with home cooked Korean dishes.
on college students about food opinions in Seoul, only about six percent said that the presentation of the food needed to be appealing, and only four percent said their eating habits were influenced by the media. In 2007, research on the dining-out consumption patterns of undergraduates in Seoul showed that only six percent of the participants were interested in the trend-oriented restaurants, while twenty five percent, which was the largest group, went to health-oriented restaurants when dining out. Another telling result from this survey was that people usually found out about restaurants through word of mouth, while only twenty-seven percent did through newspaper, Internet, or TV.
Typical Korean family meal with many side dishes and a soup to share
19 ě‹ ęľŹ
Korean houses in the 80s
Namdaemun (South Gate) in 1904
Namdaemun (South Gate) in 2013
Food in the Media
A survey on eating out habits in Seoul produced the following statements. The 250 respondents were mostly college students living in Seoul.
72% of the people said they enjoy going to matjib. 28 이 십 팔
124 out of 185 people said they use the keyword “matjib” to search for restaurant recommendation.
서울 내 외식 행동에 대한 설문조사를 통해 다음과 같은 결과가 나왔다. 250명의 참여자중 대부분이 서울에 거주하고있는 대학생이였다.
응답자의 72%가 맛집을 즐겨 방문한다고 대답했다.
185명 중 124명이 음식점을 검색할 때 “맛집”이라는 키워드 를 사용한다고 했다.
29 이 십 구
30 삼 십
“As the quality of life increased, people naturally seek better places and higher quality of food. I am certain that taste is a joy in life, and the food culture has expanded through sharing.”
“삶이 풍요로워지면서 더 좋은 장소, 높은 품질의 음식을 찾는 건 당연한 현상이고 맛이라는 건 인생의 낙이 확실하기 때문에 요즘은 공유를 통한 외식문화가 다양해졌다고 생각함.”
31 삼 십 일
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Changing Eating Habits
32 ě‚ź ě‹ ě?´
Consumers increasingly desire fulfillment of their personal happiness through smaller and more frequent spending.
If there is one word people consistently use to describe Seoul, the word is fast. Fast construction, fast Internet, and most importantly, fast trends. In this city of millions of people living in close proximity, trends in fashion, technology, and travel catch on like wildfire. This is no different for the food scene in Seoul. It is not uncommon for hyped-up, trendy restaurants to have bustling lines around the block one month and then hear crickets the next. The conspicuous consumption in Korea can be attributed to not one but several reasons, namely, economic constraints, wanting to improve quality of life, the perceived need to display what they have eaten on social media, desires of maintaining a higher social status, as well as the simple increase in availability and variety of food choices. Out of 250 people who participated in a survey I conducted about the food trend among college students in Seoul, sixty-five
FOOD IN THE MEDIA
percent answered that their interests in restaurants has grown within the past five years, and more than half of them answered “less than two years.” This result shows that it is only in recent years people started to prioritizing where and what they eat. According to an article called “New Consumption Trend, Small Indulgence” by Sumin Oh, although the continuing recession is hitting the pockets of people hard, consumers still show a desire for materialistic items. Nowadays, unlike in the past, consumers increasingly desire fulfillment of their personal happiness through smaller and more frequent spending. The primary cause of small indulgence is self-compensatory, a mental state that aims to relieve stress. Because of the long economic slump, consumers have come to look for small luxuries – that is to say, items that don’t cost a lot but nevertheless provide great satisfaction. There aren’t many
expensive luxury items that you can buy whenever you want to, but for less than KRW 10,000, which is around USD 10, you can enjoy some delicious cake. It may not be true luxury, but it makes you feel good. People are becoming more interested in dining out because of the rise of social media, which allows people to share their experiences, and TV programs, introducing restaurants and portraying chefs as entertainers in the past few years. People have been frequently using new terms like Matjib, which means restaurant with a good taste, or Muk-stagram, which is a combination of “Muk-da,” meaning “to eat” in Korean, and Instagram. In fact, one of the most popular Korean hashtags on Instagram is “#Mukstagram,” with almost forty million posts.
33 삼 십 삼
Traffic in Seoul
#맛집 (Matjib) #Matjib, a combination of “Mat,” meaning taste, and “Jib,” meaning house or place, literally means a house with taste. Name of the area or food is usually added in front to search for restaurant recommendations in certain area or of a particular food. (ex. “Seoul Matjib” means good restaurant in Seoul, while “Pasta Matjib” means a restaurant with good pasta.
#먹스타그램 (Mukstagram)
#Mukstagram, a combination of “Muk-da,” meaning “to eat” in Korean, and Instagram, is one of the most popular Korean hashtags with almost four million posts.
“I am thankful that I am able to experience what others share through the development of social media.” 40 사 십
“SNS가 발전하면서 다른 사람들의 체험을 공유하는것에 참으로 감사하다”
41 사 십 일
“Whenever I find popular matjib posts on facebook, my friends and I tag each other to try out.“
42 사 십 이
“페북에서 맛집에 관한 인기 게시글이 뜨면 서로 태그 해서 가곤 합니다.”
43 사 십 삼
“I mostly discover matjib through social media.”
44 사 십 사
“맛집은 SNS를 통해 많이 찾는다.”
45 사 십 오
FOOD IN THE MEDIA
46 사 십 육
FOOD IN THE MEDIA
Electronic Communication
Seoul is to high-tech wizardry as Milan is to fashion, or Los Angeles to film. Everything seems a few seasons ahead of the rest of the world. In fact, ninetyeight percent of households in South Korea have access to broadband, versus sixty-eight percent in America. Seventythree percent of the population uses a smartphone, versus fifty-six percent of Americans. Strategy Analytics explains that Seoul, a city of more than 20 million inhabitants, is a giant Internet hotspot that offers cheap wireless Internet connections virtually anywhere in the city and praises Korea for its high connection rate.
47 사 십 칠
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48 사 십 팔
The use of social media allows people to connect and communicate information freely without being limited by time and place. Four reasons why people use social media are the following: first, to share information, second, to build up relationships, third, to express identity, and fourth, as a hobby or to pursue happiness. As the popularity of Social Networking Sites (SNS) has risen in recent years we can see that there has been a general trend towards more specific platforms for targeted users. For example, Instagram is for picture sharing while Pinterest is for sharing one’s interests.
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49 사 십 구
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50 오 십
FOOD IN THE MEDIA
eWOM, electronic word of mouth, has become another way of passing on the trend.
Word of mouth has always been a big factor for people to find out about new places. With the rise of technology and social media, eWOM, electronic word of mouth, has become another way of passing on the trend. One’s desire for restaurant related information can be easily satisfied via endlessly scrolling through news feed to encounter a number of posts about up and coming places. Although people tend to search for a specific place to visit, this method of unintentionally stumbling upon one has become increasingly popular as well. This trend has allowed the restaurants to reach a broader audience, even attracting foreign tourists. Also, it lowered the cost of marketing because one welltaken picture with the right hashtags can reach the millions of people on the internet within moments.
51 오 십 일
Seoulites using their smartphones in the subway
Many neon signs along the street of Seoul
Banpo Bridge Rainbow Fountain over the Han River
58 오 십 팔
“My decision usually depends on the visual experience. I think it is important to make sure that my photographs would look good if I go to a certain cafe. The interior is important!!”
“디자인을 어떻게 하느냐에 따라 결정하게 되는 것 같아요. 그리고 ‘와 이 카페에 가면 사진이 정말 잘 나오겠다.’ 이것도 엄청엄청 중요한 것 같아요!!! 인테리어의 중요성!!”
59 오 십 구
“I usually look for pretty places on Instagram or go to places on my news feed posted by matjib bloggers.” 60 육 십
“인스타그램에서 이쁜 곳을 찾거나 팔로 하는 맛집 블로거 피드에서 본 곳을 가려고 하는 편이에요.”
61 육 십 일
“Sometimes I eat out just to post trendy food pictures on social media time to time.”
62 육 십 이
“가끔 SNS에 이쁜 음식 사진 올리는 건 느낌 있으니까 외식을 하게 되는 것도 있어요.”
63 육 십 삼
FOOD IN THE MEDIA
Visual Experience
64 ěœĄ ě‹ ě‚Ź
Visual experience is becoming an important factor in deciding where to go.
Although the primary standard of food choice has always been taste, people are becoming more interested in the presentation of not just the food, but also the restaurant as a whole. Visual experience is becoming an important factor in deciding where to go. Although people use their sense of taste to eat the food, visual sense has become more and more dominant in experiencing a restaurant or cafe. In response to this recent trend of dining out becoming an increasingly visual experience, many new places with picture-perfect food or photo spots are opening in Seoul. This trend usually applies more towards cafes because Seoulites love their coffee and desserts. In such a compact city, there is a high demand for cafes, leading each one to come up with unique themes to compete against others. This economic competition has led these cafes to invest in the visual theme of the whole place from the perfectly designed menu down to the style of the seating.
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Top Tea, Coffee and Scone at Cafe Relieve in Gangnam Bottom Colorful macarons from Cafe Heart & Arrow
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66 육 십 육
A dessert cafe called “Doré Doré” gained its popularity among Seoulites through its beautiful and delicious rainbow layered cake. For a while, pictures of this cake flooded news feeds across Korea by storm. As this trend began to slowly die out, they renovated their interior so that each floor had a specific color theme with trendy furniture. Many people revisited the cafe for this different visual experience and to take pictures in front of the walls painted in their favorite color. The menu stayed the same, but the revamped interior drew the crowd back.
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67 육 십 칠
FOOD IN THE MEDIA
Another cafe that came up with a unique menu is Ferry Roasters. They float a mini donut, decorated with pink icing and sprinkles, on top of milk foam latte and call it a tube latte. Some unique themed cafes include character themed ones, such as Hello Kitty Cafe or Charlie Brown Cafe, and animal themed ones, such ranging from your normal cat cafe and dog cafe to bizarre ones like raccoon cafe or cafe with animals from the Galapagos Islands. 68 육 십 팔
FOOD IN THE MEDIA
69 육 십 구
“Matjib posts are overrated. There is nothing special when you actually try it.“
“맛집홍보는 과장되었다. 사실 먹어보면 별거 없다.”
“I enjoy eating different types of food but it is disappointing to see only one type of food being popular and promoted when it becomes the trend.“
78
“다양한 음식을 좋아하는데 요즘은 트랜드를 타면 그 한 가지 음식만 유행하고 홍보되는 것 같아 좀 안타깝다.”
칠 십 팔
“I am usually satisfied after visiting a matjib once. I would visit back if it tastes excellent, but I can usually substitute the experience with other restaurants.” “SNS를 통해서 찾은 맛집은 한번 방문으로 만족하는 듯. 아주 맛있고 내 스타일이라면 재방문하겠지만, 보통은 다른 레스토랑으로 대체 가능하기 때문인 것 같음!”
“If I find a matjib on Instagram, I always google it to double check reviews on tripadvisor or yelp.”
“저는 인스타에서 맛집을 찾으면 구글에 꼭 한 번 더 찾아봐요. 그래서 tripadvisor나 yelp까지 확인하는 편이에요.”
79 칠 십 구
“It is hard to find a place that is popular for its quality on Instagram. There are handful of places that pay more attention on the visual presentation that the actual taste isn’t any special. “ “실제로 맛으로 유명한 곳은 인스타에서 찾기 힘든 것 같아요. 솔직히 너무 비주얼을 중요하게 생각해서 맛은 그저 그런 곳들도 많아요.”
Food for the Soul
“The food you seek again is the best food.”
82 팔 십 이
“다시 찾는 음식이 최고의 음식이다.”
83 팔 십 삼
FOOD FOR THE SOUL
84 팔 십 사
Although there are benefits from the rise of social media, it is also changing the way people perceive these new so-called, “hot places.” There are so many sponsored posts with insincere reviews, and some of the famous bloggers abuse their popularity to be treated well at restaurants. It is hard to distinguish genuine reviews from sponsored reviews. In fact, ninety percent of the people who participated in the survey said that they have experienced disappointment at the places they found on social media. Because of this, more than half of the people said they do not trust online reviews and tend to not go back to the places they found on social media. Oftentimes, these restaurants that gained popularity through social media get too many customers for a few months, which leads the service and taste to get worse. A lot of these restaurants end up closing or shrinking in size after a huge boom. A fusion restaurant called “The Mallang Mallang” was introduced on a popular Korean TV show called “Tasty Road” and became so popular that there was at least an hour wait everyday. People visited to try its popular crab cream udon pasta and pastry pizza. However, as it got more popular and had more customers, the waiters became less attentive and the food took too long to be served. Compared to the expensive price, the customers were dissatisfied with the service and
FOOD FOR THE SOUL
The meaning of “shikgoo,” sharing the meal as a family, is getting lost.
food, which caused the restaurant to close down after a couple of years. Because people get so many recommendations through social media, it’s almost getting to the point where one starts to wonder if these people are actually enjoying this variety of food choices or trying just for the sake of portraying themselves as trendy. Because of this social pressure or the fear of missing out, people are busy trying out the new trendy places rather than making their own unique memories. The value of trying different food and sharing a meal is moving from the taste and social experience to visual experience and sharing the pictures on social media. The meaning of “shikgoo,” sharing the meal as a family, is getting lost as people meet up to try these new places rather than try these places to enhance the time they share over a meal. Although more people are connecting through social media, the actual human connection gets lost through the superficial portrayal online. People depending on online information is also leading this new generation to become more indecisive and even lose their identities because they rely on these posts on social media to dictate the choices they make. People are quick to judge a place based on a few pictures online rather than going and experiencing the restaurant for themselves. This emphasis on experiencing through
85 팔 십 오
FOOD FOR THE SOUL
social media often leads to reality being disappointing. Also, these passively made decisions are making people become less appreciative. Oftentimes, after trying one place, people don’t feel the need to visit again because they can find a number of other places to try next time. One Seoulite in the survey I conducted wrote, “I am usually satisfied after visiting a “matjib” once. I would visit back if it tastes excellent, but I can usually substitute the experience with other restaurants.”
86 팔 십 육
As a result of these quickly changing trends, people are used to having instant joy, which also leads people to constantly want something new. While Seoul is already a fast paced city, nothing seems to last a long time because these new popular places are not able to have consistent customers. This is also why, unlike the United States, where applications like Yelp or Foursquare are the go-to apps for restaurant recommendations, Korea is lacking to have an app or website for restaurant recommendations. This quick change in trend is also causing many restaurants to close after a huge boom. In the early 2010s, “Koreanized” fusion foreign food like kimchi fries and the bulgogi burrito was a trend for a while. However, this trend didn’t last long. Lately, there are more authentic foreign restaurants opening up in Seoul. In the midst of these changes of trend, it is the old authentic restaurants that are becoming popular again and have been steadily successful. A few places in Seoul have been around for more than half a century because of their authenticity and taste. At these not-so-trendybut-true-to-taste restaurants, you can see people waiting even for a long time to get a table for their unchanging, authentic taste. Most Korean cuisine uses soy sauce, soybean paste, or red pepper paste, and one of the most well known Korean dishes is kimchi. Some things they have in common are that it takes a long time to prepare to make them and that they are all fermented over a long period of time, usually for years. The longer they are kept in Onggi, Korean earthenware, the more flavorful they get. Although the main ingredients to make Korean dishes might seem simple, these sauces are the ones that create the deep, flavorful taste. This characteristic of Korean food shows how authenticity builds up over time.
Top Jangdokdae, where onggis were kept in a corner of the yard Bottom Kimchi in onggi
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옹기 (Onggi) Onggi, Korean earthenware is used for making and preserving many things like soybean paste, soy sauce, hot pepper paste, fermented salty fish, makgeolli, and of course, kimchi. They’re made from clay, having microscopic holes that allow them to breathe, which makes them great for fermentation.
88 팔 십 팔
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89 팔 십 구
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90 구 십
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91 구 십 일
가마솥 (Gamasot) Gamasot, a traditional Korean cauldron is used to cook rice or broth. Preparing food in a gamasot lets all of the ingredients cook evenly through the pressure within the cauldron, and it creates a deep and rich flavor. It takes up to 48 hours straight to make certain broth using gamasot.
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하 동 관
92 구 십 이
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93 구 십 삼
Hadongkwan opened in 1939 and has been making its famous gomtang, Korean beef stew, for three generations. They insisted on walking a single path of a single taste for almost 80 years for their authentic recipe. Despite the simple menu, its customers constantly come back with their children and grandchildren for its unique taste.
FOOD FOR THE SOUL
우 래 옥
96 구 십 육
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97 구 십 칠
Uraeok, the oldest Pyongyang naengmyeon restaurant in Seoul, opened in 1946 and is still popular for its bulgogi and Pyongyang naengmyeon. It was between 1949 and 1952, after Korea was split in two, that a lot of Koreans moved from the North to the South. For refugees from the North, Pyongyang naengmyeon was a comfort food that eased their longing for the land they had left behind.
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광 장 시 장 98 구 십 팔
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99 구 십 구
Gwangjang Shijang, a market place that opened in 1905 is one of few market places in Seoul that has kept its vibe as an ordinary market. It still has rows of vendors selling typical Korean dishes like bibimbap or janchigooksoo. There is nothing fancy about these foods but because they are cheap, easily accessible food with steady taste and vibe at a market place, people go back for their nostalgic memories.
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명 동 교 자 100 백
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101 백 일
Myeongdong Gyoza opened in 1966 and was listed on Michelin’s Bib Gourmand, a gourmet restaurant guide by the French company Michelin. The menu only consists of two types of noodles, kalguksu, noodle with broth, and bibimguksu, mixed noodle, and steamed dumpling. Despite its simple menu, people from all over the world line up around the block.
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102 백 이
FOOD FOR THE SOUL
Food is a big part of defining an identity. However, Seoul is going through fast changes of food trends, losing its own culture in the explosion of social media. All of these changes in trends may simply be a repetition of changes caused by desire for something new, or they may represent a nostalgic longing of the soul for authenticity.
103 ë°ą ě‚ź
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107 백 칠
108 백 팔
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109 백 구
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS To my family, thank you all for your endless support and encouragement as always. To Amanda, Christine, DongZ, Jeremy, Dr. Monahan, and Madeleine, thank you all for helping me with the text. To my studiomates up in Steinberg 213, thank you all for suffering together through the whole time. To everyone who participated in and helped me spread my survey, thank you all for providing your insights. 110
그리고 한국에서 여러모로 많은 도움을 준 젖소 고맙소.
백 십
COLOPHON This book was written, compiled, edited, and designed by Christina Han for senior capstone project with the help of Chrissi Cowhey in Spring 2017 at Washington University in St. Louis Sam Fox School of Design & Visual Arts. It was printed on Cougar white 70lb text and 80lb cover at Marvel Printing in St. Louis. The type is set in various weights of Avenir and Meta Serif.
#잘먹었습니다