ZIPPED SPRING 2010
going hi-tech
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how fashion and media measure up
bold accessories that add color to any outfit
spring into the season with
dr. seuss inspired styles
contents
EDITORIAL Christine Robertson
briefs
Editor-in-Chief
Cassie Kreitner
4 STYLE FILES
Managing Editor
The latest in fashion news: Bloomingdale's discount outlets, Google-inspired designs, Kid Dangerous' casual couture, and much more.
Samantha Leibovitz Creative Director
Katy Ann Lyons Fashion Editor
6 ZIPCODE
Timmy Johnson
From the Red Light District to its unique fashion week, Zipped explores Amsterdam's unknown style playground.
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Distinct styles spotted on students across the SU Hill.
ZIPPED
Assoc. Fashion Editor
Alyssa Grossman Features Editor
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features
Molly Gallagher
Assoc. Features Editor
Hilary Smith
Contributing Fashion Editor
PHOTO & DESIGN Nancy Szarkowski
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WHEN TO SPLURGE Timeless wardrobe pieces transition from savvy student to working woman. Our guide shows when to lay down your wallet.
Art Director
Emilia Wojdylak Assoc. Art Director
10 GUYS UNZIPPED
Luke McComb
12 MULTI-MEDIA MADNESS
BUSINESS & COMMUNICATIONS Robert Brotherton
Photo Director
Three laid-back guys try on preppy collegiate styles for a day.
Fashion and magazines go together like Dolce & Gabbana, but pressure from new media is forcing both to reinvent.
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The whimsical world of Dr. Seuss influences this spring's fashion designs.
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Enjoy!
Naomi Ratner
SPECIAL THANKS:
FASHION CONSCIENCE The skinny-model debate heats up among fashion designers and industry experts as teens take over the runway.
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As a kid I never much cared for Dr. Seuss. His books were strange riddles, the cartoons were wacky, and to this day I detest cats. But I grew up and revisited the stories. The simple meanings revealed themselves in a way that spoke to the adult in me. For example, trying new things is the only way to discover what you enjoy and love. Dr. Seuss brought clever calm to a world full of menacing things like change and the unknown. With graduation in mind, our spring shoot, beginning on page 16, offers a fun escape into the colorful world of Seussville. Beyond a quirky style inspiration, Dr. Seuss helps us understand that things don’t always stay the same. Our main feature on technology (pg. 12) predicts that a decade from now, we won’t recognize the world of fashion and journalism. The magazine you’re holding may be available only on the iPad, or the next development in electronic media. Even in the past four years at Syracuse, the curriculum has adapted to this drastic shift. In Oh, the Places You’ll Go, we’re reminded that making decisions can be difficult. Those who avoid action end up in “the waiting place—the most useless place.” Taking a stand may be the answer to the skinny model debate, which we discuss in this semester’s fashion conscience article (pg. 22). And while we’re waiting anxiously wondering what will come our way, we can at least prepare with a few wardrobe staples. Check out our guide on page 8. Finally, even when faced with tough decisions or uncertainty, we can all find comfort in knowing we’re going somewhere. To my fellow seniors, today is our day, our mountain is waiting, let’s get on our way.
Business Manager
FACULTY ADVISORS Melissa Chessher Carla Lloyd
endings
MVP: MOST VALUED PIECES These designs prove that when it comes to accessories, it's survival of the boldest.
from the editor
PR Director
16 OH, THE PLACES WE'LL GO
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Letter
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Bounce, Armory Square Jet Black, Armory Square J. Michaels, Marshall St. Joette’s, Armory Square Michelle DaRin Jewelry Mr. Shop, Armory Square Rhodadendron, Marshall St. Some Girls Boutique, Marshall St.
CONTRIBUTORS
Ben Addonzio, Taylor Bryant, Kelly Bucci, Jennifer Cheng, AJ Chavar, Samantha Corbin, Christina Decker, Meghin Delaney, Mohammad Diallo, Karin Dolinsek, Morgan Evans, Dana Rose Falcone, Danny Gruber, Ivie Igbeare, Nicole Inniss, Molly Jauhar, Angela Laurello, Brittany Leitner, Iman Mikel Luther, Lindsay Mather, Dave Mountain, Erica Murphy, Danielle Odiamar, Kayla Rawden, Elizabeth Rosenzweig, Justine Signore, Meagan Walker, Allison Werner, Lauren Tousignant
FRONT COVER: PURPLE FROCK DRESS BY TRACY REESE ($175, JET BLACK) BACK COVER: PINK DRESS SHIRT BY ROBERT TALBOTT ($195, MR. SHOP) STYLED BY KATY LYONS, MAKEUP BY HILARY SMITH, PHOTGRAPHY BY LUKE MCCOMB
Illustration by Timmy Johnson
spring 2010 • ZIPPED
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style files Orange Debuts New Uniforms
Search-Engine Style
To celebrate an old basketball rivalry, Syracuse University and the University of Connecticut debuted their new Nike HyperElite uniforms during the Orange’s home-court win on Feb. 24. The uniforms, made from the lightest material created by Nike are custom created for the university. SU’s shorts feature four pods down each side -- a nod to the legacy of the number 44. A mesh design with historic campus buildings —including the Hall of Languages, Carnegie Library, and of course, the Carrier Dome— adorns the back of each jersey. -Iman Mikel Luther
googlestore.com blog.syracuse.com
The Danger Zone
Medal-Winning Designs
Kid Dangerous’ new clothing line offers bold designs, brash tees, and fierce leather. The Los Angeles-based company incorporates stark, in-your-face graphics with high-quality fabrics. Creative director Dan Agnew and president Steve Nanino created the line for fashionforward clientele on a mainstream budget. The edgy line debuted in 2007 at Kitson, a popular store among the young Hollywood set, and has expanded to more than 140 boutiques and department stores, including Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom. -Karin Dolinsek
At the 2010 Olympic Games in Vancouver, contenders won their medals in style. In recent years, designers have partnered with athletes to create fashion-forward outfits. Vera Wang, a former figure skater, designed U.S. Gold Medalist Evan Lysacek’s sleek black costume that featured a Swarovski-encrusted snake collar. In 2006, Roberto Cavalli, Moschino, and Giorgio Armani crafted costumes for the home team in Turin, Italy, and for the 2008 and 2010 games, Ralph Lauren outfitted Team USA in patriotic gear for the opening ceremony. -Taylor Bryant
A Fashion Icon Lost
news.instyle.com
www.kiddangerous.com
The Secret Life of Coco
On February 11, just one day before the start of New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, the fashion industry was stunned to hear that designer Alexander McQueen hanged himself in his London flat. The news came less than a week after his mother’s death. McQueen became famous for reviving the British fashion industry in the mid ‘90s with his eccentric designs and unconventional runway shows. Thousands of fashion lovers, media outlets, and industry experts shared condolences via Twitter throughout the day. London Fashion Week organized an emotional tribute to their native designer, and Paris Fashion Week debuted McQueen’s final collection. PPR, the company that owns and operates the label under the Gucci Group, assures the fashion world that the McQueen brand will continue despite its founder’s untimely passing. -Dana Rose Falcone
Coco Chanel created iconic couture inspired by menswear that allowed women to feel comfortable, rather than constrained, in understated elegance. Although her style achievements transcend time, the personal life of the designer remains a mystery. A new biography, Coco Chanel: A Life, claims to unveil the woman behind the pearls. Author Justine Picardie goes beyond Chanel's history and delves into the fashion mogul’s relationships and an in-depth interview with the brand's head designer and creative director, Karl Lagerfeld. (Amazon.com $26.40) - Morgan Evans
Bloomie’s on a Budget Smart shoppers can now indulge in the upscale apparel, accessories, shoes, and handbags sold at Bloomingdale’s. This fall, the department store chain plans to open four outlet stores: two in Florida, one in New Jersey, and one in Virginia. The new division aims to move discount merchandise out of the department stores faster and hopes to expand the reach of upscale items to bargain-hunting shoppers. Macy’s, the parent company, is also planning on opening discount stores of its own in the near future. - Molly Jauhar
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The Council of Fashion Designers of America/Vogue Fashion Fund partnered with Google this year to create designs inspired by the company from its logo colors to technology. Finalist designs included a necklace inspired by a magnifying glass, a shirt printed with search results for “peace,” and a knit scarf featuring Google’s famous blue, yellow, and red. The annual event supports upand-coming fashion designers with financial awards and business mentoring, according to the CFDA website. Pieces are available at googlestore.com and range from $85 to $300 for a limited time. - Ivie Igbeare
nymag.com
insideretailing.com
harpercollins.com
media.onsugar.com
Catwalk for a Cause
Naomi Campbell’s fifth annual Fashion for Relief charity show raised money for victims of January’s earthquake in Haiti. Held in February during New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, all proceeds went to CARE, a non-profit organization helping to rebuild Haiti’s health-care system for women and children. Christian Dior, Ralph Lauren, and stylist Rachel Zoe donated their time and clothing to the event. Beyoncé, Diane von Furstenberg, and Kate Moss walked the runway. Agyness Deyn proved that nothing can keep her down by curtseying after two falls in skyhigh heels. - Lauren Tousignant spring 2010 • ZIPPED
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zipcode
street style
un v e ili n g
Amsterdam Known mostly for Cannabis coffee shops and Red Light District brothels, Netherland's capital features fashion secrets that await unsuspecting tourists.
n 2008, American pop culture met Amsterdam fashion when the aspiring talent of America’s Next Top Model took to the city’s Red Light District. For their first challenge, the models posed in windows where one might expect to see prostitutes. The shoot brought light to a recent movement to brighten up the area in the name of fashion. Anyone who travels to Amsterdam anticipates its free-spirited locals and lenient government. But a land with such spontaneity also lays the perfect groundwork for an underground fashion capital. From grunge to couture runway, styles here range from high fashion to local swag. In such a city, clothing risks and individuality take over. Home to brothels and sex shops, the Red Light District remains the oldest part of the city. Recently, however, fashion showcases have replaced provocative windows. These displays were originally a “clean up” effort by the Dutch Fashion Foundation that sought to give young, talented designers business and exposure. Though only intended to last 12 months, overwhelming popularity gave the fashion exhibits a permanent home. The highly-visited space holds the work of 16 diverse designers in 18 displays, including Dutch names like Daryl van Wouw, known for his hip street-couture, and Roswitha van Rijn, a shoe designer whose intricate detail includes winged shapes and overlapping layers. With such talent coming from the Netherlands, Amsterdam International Fashion Week (AIFW) seemed an essential addition to the city. Since 2004, designers of all talents have shown their collections on the catwalk with an Amsterdam edge. This past January, Bibi van der Velden, a jewelry designer who creates Lady Gaga-esque accessories, featured abstract statement pieces in her collection. One model donned a gold cuff the size of her forearm, another a tiered necklace that spread entirely across her shoulders, and one with her face entirely covered by crystals. Designer Replay relied heavily on denim and mixed in motorcycle jackets, indigo washed jeans, and pleated skirts. His designs indicate the peoples’ love for grunge. Even chain stores provide a unique flair. In one 6
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Alejandra Nasser Arts and Sciences
Photo credit: bibivandervelden.com
I
By Samantha Corbin Contributing Writer
Favorite piece: Elephant-shaped bone necklace Sense of style: Personality disordered fashion. It changes all the time.
Holly Moulis VPA Favorite piece: Brown leather jacket Sense of style: It changes with my mood. Whatever I grab first, I put on.
A Bibi van der Velden model wearing a bubble-inspired scarf at AIFW Fall/Winter 2010.
Amsterdam H&M, clothing ranges from brightly colored tops to studded jeans and jackets; inspiration straight from AIFW. A young employee dressed in a white, floral tunic, dark vest, and ripped jeans describes grunge as a fashion favorite for the masses in Amsterdam, but style wise, anything goes. Students travelling abroad notice the difference in merchandise from the states. “I can’t shop in the H&M in San Diego,” says California native, Sara Rogers, a junior at University of Colorado at Boulder. “The clothes are just not cute. They’re too basic and overpriced for what they are.” At this H&M, however, she found a striped tunic, a blue silk top with gold buttons on the shoulder, and a gray blazer. H&M seems to straddle the line between runwayinspired attire and vintage grunge. “In the party scene there is a lot of Lady Gaga type of dress,” the employee explains before thoughtfully noticing her own top. “The floral pattern is also a staple right now.” While locals love cutting-edge fashion, tourists find history in Amsterdam. Located near one of the city’s most acclaimed canals, Herengracht, the Museum of Bags and Purses, Tassenmuseum Hendrikje, contains more than 4,000 items of display. This decadent gallery pays homage to the handbag. One six-month British exhibition featured modern designs from the late Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood. Currently, the exhibit “Crystal loves leather” displays bags and fashion accessories with Swarovski accents. The collection has shown in fashion-forward cities like Tokyo and Paris. Although secondary to today’s top fashion capitals like New York and Milan, fashion risks flourish in Amsterdam, a city with no rules.
Angela Hu Newhouse School Favorite piece: Blazer from Salvation Army
Samson Lau ESF Favorite piece: Sunglasses
Sense of Style: Comfort always comes first, but the people who dress up for class inspire me and give me new ideas.
Sense of style: I keep my outfits clean and sleek, but like to add a touch of color to make it pop.
Philip Schanck Human Ecology
Valeria Aponte Arts and Sciences
Favorite piece: Necklace bought in Soho
Favorite piece: BCBG boots
Sense of style: I am very laidback, so I’m into the whole J.Crew look.
Sense of style: I consider my style unique, and I look to boho-chic fashion for inspiration.
Interviews by Alyssa Grossman
By Krista Johnson
Photography by Nancy Szarkowski
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break bank
the
Five practical wardrobe staples to splurge on.
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classic piece of jewelry
Accessories add extra pizzazz to any outfit, but cheap metal can appear gaudy. Stick to classic pieces that work from day to night. Diamond studs or a classic gold or silver watch look casualcool on campus and professional in the workplace. This simple statement looks sophisticated alone; anything more becomes excessive. For jewelry that looks new, bring it into a jeweler for polishing or pick up cleaner for a DIY project.
nordstrom.com
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calvinklein.com
By: Christina Decker Contributing Writer argain shopping creates addicts. The quick-fix knockoff of that lightweight spring jacket presents itself like a Wonderland “drink me” bottle. The coat shrinks with an Alice-like effect; the double-digit price tag becomes enormous; impossible to resist. Soon the delusion wears off, leaving a jaded shopper with Salvation Army-bound attire. Finding pieces versatile enough to survive all of life's changes truly saves. Fashion writer and Project Runway judge Nina Garcia notes the importance of staple pieces in her book The Little Black Book of Style,“They are dependable and perhaps unremarkable, but a stylish woman understands that not every piece is supposed to be remarkable,” she says. “They can go from day to night, season to season, and they can still be worn five years from now.” Whether far in the future or quickly approaching, the working world requires career-friendly attire. Investment pieces give new life to past purchases. Think of these five items as the glue that holds together a mismatched closet and a revival elixir for some of those “what was I thinking” pieces.
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fitted black blazer
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camel trench coat
From Jackie Onassis to Carrie Bradshaw, this outerwear piece is iconic and versatile. Shoot for a medium-weight fabric, which delivers wearability from season to season. A belt to cinch and accentuate the waistline prevents the potato-sack effect. Dry cleaners can weather-proof coats to keep out moisture, so make that the first stop after purchase. Whether traveling the globe or hailing a taxi, this wardrobe staple always looks chic.
timeless mid-sized bag
A cheap bag on a stunning outfit could make Coco Chanel roll over in her grave. Too often, people spend on clothes and skimp on accessories. Like icing on a cake, the dessert looks bland without the garnish. A versatile tote that works for all occasions provides a simple solution. The splurge on high-quality material ensures it will hold up over time. Most leather bags come untreated, so before stepping out, make sure to use a leather protector to prevent accidental stains or spills from setting in.
A go-to that keeps giving, the blazer is a trend that CEOs and the fashion-minded can agree on. Though the ‘90s version appealed to an older generation— think Elaine from Seinfeld—the modern look of one or two buttons says style not stuffy. Wear it over a blouse and skirt at the office or skinny jeans and flats while running to class. Have a tailor alter it for the perfect fit.
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perfect pair of black heels
bergdorfgoodman.com
Illustrations by Timmy Johnson
From jeans to dresses, black heels add instant glamour and height to any look. Heels elongate legs and ad instant confidence with each click. A classic four-inch looks chic at cocktail hour, but won’t make anyone look twice in the office. Choose a pair that provides support and durability. If the pumps feel more like flip-flops, try cushioning inserts in the back; they keep feet in place and prevent blisters. When the stilettos start to show signs of wear, a cobbler can replace heel tips. spring 2010 • ZIPPED
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guys unzipped
new school
PREP
Country club casual comes to ‘Cuse just in time for spring. By Mohammad Diallo Contributing Writer
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Gray sweater vest, H&M, $19.95 Classic pink polo, Polo by Ralph Lauren, $75 Bowery khakis, J. Crew, $69.50
kuande
matt
Striped nautical shirt, H&M, $24.95 White pants, J. Crew, $7
The Hamptons look may seem fitting for the men of Gossip Girl, but clean-cut fashion ran the runway for spring. With cleverly coordinated pieces any guy can pull off Chuck Bass’ style without looking like a complete snob (or tool). Bright, happy colors with bold prints channel the Kennedy in any man. We found three boys willing to bring out their inner prep and leave the fallback t-shirt and baggy jeans in the dressing room.
Signature style: “California” casual or just a regular guy expressing individuality without being too out there.
Signature style: Always changing; relaxed and having fun.
travis
Inner prep: A lightweight, nautical t-shirt looks fresh with a pair of white pants. This youthful combination works perfect for sailing lessons at the yacht club with mother or rolling out of bed and heading to the Hall of Languages.
Inner prep: Neutrals like creme and navy make matching easy and provide a palette to incorporate punches of color. This look says, “I’m confident and I mean business,” and it’s appropriate for work or the next big kegger. For the color shy, start with deeper hues (purples, greens) as you warm up to the idea of rocking hot pink.
Inner prep: This sweater screams ‘50s throwback. Strut your Syracuse pride in style and reserve the “Real Men Wear Orange” t-shirt for the gym. The navy corduroy jacket keeps the sweater from looking like you pulled it from Carlton Banks’ turtleneck collection. A bright-blue belt completes the look.
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Syracuse T. Dalton sweater, SU Bookstore, $52.99 Cord sport coat, J. Crew, $79.99 Blue striped Hugo Boss pants, Mr. Shop, $195 Blue Rober Talbott belt, Mr. Shop, $100
Signature style: Casual and comfortable, or anything clean from the laundry basket.
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echnology akeover In an unstable landscape where everything today could be different tomorrow, can the fashion and media industries adapt? By Lindsey Mather 12
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arl Lagerfeld no longer needs to wait for a press conference or an interview to express his feelings about the fashion industry. Whenever the mood strikes, he logs on to his Twitter account, @Karl_Lagerfeld, and shares his philosophical viewpoints. “Fashion does not have to prove that it is serious. It is the proof that intelligent frivolity can be something creative and positive,” he tweeted on March 1. A digital reflection of fall 2009 • ZIPPED
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cost of producing fashion shows, says Todd Conover, assistant professor of fashion design in VPA. “Many designers are instead leaning toward social media to show their work.” Carla Lloyd, co-director of the Fashion and Beauty Communications Milestone, believes that this is a positive transformation. “I think with digitization what we have seen is a democratization of voices that can comment on fashion now,” she says. The rise of citizen fashion bloggers in what used to be an exclusive community of magazine editors views it as a positive trend throughout the fashion industry. GQ’s associate editor, Robert Johnson, told New York Magazine fashion blog “The Cut”, “Bloggers are so attractive to the big design houses because they are
“
the Internet, many may be reluctant to pay for access to magazine websites. Crosbie believes media outlets may be on the right track, however. “We’ve gotten into a situation where it’s not a matter of scarce stories,” he says. “It’s the case that they are not getting to the right people who might be interested. If you can adopt fashion magazine publishing so you can better customize it to the person and deliver it to the person, than that person is more likely to use that service, that magazine, and pay for it.” Unlike acid-wash jeans, technology is here to stay, although the impact is yet to be determined. Todd Conover predicts a complete industry makeover. “Everything is going to change: The way that the news is spread about fashion, the way that fashion is sold,
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the legendary designer’s approach to fashion, 219,688 people follow him; he follows no one. To industry insiders, fashion-forward no longer means cutting-edge designs, but also cutting-edge technology. As advertising dollars have steeply declined over the last three years, fashion publications are now embracing new media to keep up with competition from bloggers and new media devices. In 2009, traditional advertising in newspapers and magazines plummeted 18.7 and 14.8 percent, respectively, according to XPLANE, an information design consultancy who created the YouTube video “Did You Know 4.0.” Apple’s introduction of the iPad earlier this month could be the moneymaking solution both designers and publications are looking for. Apps on the 9.7inch touch-screen give consumers a front row seat to top designer shows and allow readers to flip through a magazine with the tap of a finger. These platforms present opportunities for both fashion designers and fashion publications to expand their brands. Increasingly, fashion and media outlets have embraced this digital revolution. In December, GQ released its “Men of the Year” iPhone app, a digital interactive issue of the magazine for $2.99. They also released the January 2010 issue as an app. With over 12,000 downloads, was nearly twice as successful as the inaugural issue. The Associated Press commented on iTunes, “Having the mag on your phone is so much better. [I] got to read pretty much the whole thing while waiting in the barbershop.” Fashion houses are also taking advantage of mobile technology to reach out to customers. Chanel created the “Chanel-Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2010” app that gives a 360-degree look into every aspect of the brand, from trailer videos to the actual fashion show. Gucci launched an app that allows users to customize their own music mix with “Gucci Beats” and find the “it” places to be seen in their city with the “Little Black Book” feature. Just as shoes lay the foundation for any fabulous ensemble, portability is the foundation for a new business model. Ashley Schofield, a part-time adjunct instructor of producing cross-platform messages, a fashion milestone course, says the fashion industry should focus on social media to reach customers. She considers Twitter to be the most professional platform, allowing conversation to flow between fashion designers and their fans. Tommy Hilfiger account (@TommyHilfiger) frequently mentions other Twitter users. From this interaction, fashion designers learn about their consumers, Schofield says. “It really goes back into listening to what people want and really targeting their interests and making these products valuable to them,” she says. The use of technology relates to the rising
Bloggers are so attractive to the big design houses because they are so wide-eyed and obsessed, but they don't have the critical faculties to know what's good and what’s not.
so wide-eyed and obsessed, but they don't have the critical faculties to know what's good and what's not.” Despite their grievances, editors must share the limelight with style bloggers when it comes to what’s hot and what’s not. “Bloggers now get a celebrity status that puts them right there in the front row of the top runway shows,” says Lloyd. While the blogosphere remains open to anyone equipped with a computer and an opinion, it also helps unknown writers transition into professional media. Jessica Morgan and Heather Cocks, known as the “Fug Girls,” gained fame from their blog “Go Fug Yourself” and are frequently featured on Nymag.com. GQ has included work from photographer Yvan Rodic, who created the blog “Face Hunter.” Perhaps this open marketplace will allow major magazines to recruit bloggers and turn them into talented reporters. The industry, through trial and error, continues searching for an answer to how this technology will generate revenue. “Have we found the business model to make money? No,” Lloyd says. One solution may be to begin charging for content, but the question of consumer willingness remains. If all publications decided to charge for online content, this would create a price war, says Vin Crosbie, adjunct professor of visual and interactive communications. “The economics of information have changed,” he says. With the incredible amount of information available on
the way that fashion is shown,” he says. “All of it is going to change because of technology, because we have instant access.”
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Dressing
up with Dr. euss
S
Brighten your wardrobe with colorful spring trends. Fiction meets fashion through these storybook-inspired looks.
I t ' s a T hing T hing
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On Nicole: Red jumper dress, BB Dakota, Some Girls Boutique, $69; Blue Steven by Steve Madden Mary Jane's, J. Michaels, $145; Powder Blue Flower Pin, Joette's, $6; Blue dress, Daisy, Some Girls Boutique, $89
Photography: Ben Addonzio and Luke McComb Styling: Rob Brotherton, Timmy Johnson , Katy Lyons, Christine Robertson, Hilary Smith Makeup: Erica Murphy and Kayla Rawden
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T he C at in the H at On Alicia (left): Purple Origami Baby Dress, Daisy, Some Girl's Boutique, $79; Jewel Flower Ring, Joette's, $16 On Tyrone (middle): Black tuxedo, Mr. Shop, $595; Polka dot bowtie, Mark Pendleton, Lord & Taylor $49.50; Red All-Stars, Converse, Journey's, $39.99; White fedora, H&M, $7.95
O h , the P laces Y ou ' ll G o
On Esther (right): Water-me-melon party dress, Daisy, Some Girl's Boutique, $79; Orange bow headband, Some Girls Boutique, $18
On Katja: Pink zipper shirt, Kimberly Taylor, Jet Black, $208; Abstract Skirt, Alice & Olivia, Jet Black, $160
Would you
could you
in a
car? G reen E ggs and H am On Sarah (left): Yellow Dress, Frock by Tracy Reese, Jet Black, $275; Purple Tayla pumps, Steve Madden, J. Michael's, $90; Turquoise flower cuff, Joette's, $26; Colorful pocket scarf (as headband), Robert Talbott, Mr. Shop, $75
H orton H ears a W ho
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On Sire: Blue puff sleeved dress, Elizabeth & James, Jet Black, $395; Flower earrings, model's own
On Jake (middle): Classic dress shirt, DKNY, Macy's, $49.50; Striped tie, Robert Talbott, Mr. Shop, $135 On Joe (right): Pinstriped dress shirt, DKNY, Macy's, $52.50, Lime green tie, Robert Talbott, Mr. Shop, $245 spring 2010 • ZIPPED
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fashion conscience
Runway
spring
of youth
most valued pieces
AWAKENING Break through rainy days with a pop of color, inspired by Mother Nature
When stick thin models are the norm, teen models fear growing up By Jennifer Cheng Contributing Writer
W
hen Gemma Ward first walked the Prada runway in 2004, she was only 16-years-old. Her waif-like, angelic appearance allowed her to grace the cover of Vogue around the world more than 30 times. Three years later, however, whispers began. Walking the runway in 2007, her Chanel denim bathing suit showed off newly acquired curves. One anonymous fashion editor who attended the show told the New York Post Ward looked “big, almost bloated” and deemed her unrecognizable. New York Magazine estimates that at 5’10, she weighed only 120 pounds. The warped view of model sizes has motivated leading voices in the industry. At the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week this past February, the Council of Fashion Designers in America (CFDA) brought together leaders from various fashion-related fields to discuss how to change an establishment that pressures models to be a dangerously low weight. Vogue fashion director Tonne Goodman says the problem stems from the popularity of using models under the age of 16 to embody the ideal of what an adult body should look like. Panelist and Dutch model, Doutzen Kroes, says young girls from poor countries will go to extreme lengths to succeed because their home offers little. But like Ward, their success lasts only an instant. Once they hit puberty, their shelf life expires. James Scully, a casting agent and a panelist at the recent CFDA dialogue, believes altering this skewed ideal of beauty must start with declaring 18 as the minimum age for professional models. According to today's standard, if a model wants to walk the runway, she must fit the zero sample size provided by fashion designers. Since 2007, the CFDA has worked to change the measurement to a four. Even those labeled “naturally skinny” have often not gone through puberty. London Fashion Week set the standard in 2007 when it began requiring models to be at least 16-years-old. In addition, models must provide a health certificate, proof they aren’t hiding an eating disorder. Madrid Fashion Week requires models to have a body mass index of at least 18.5 to qualify for the runway. But not all of Europe is taking a stand against skinny. Karl Lagerfeld, head designer for Chanel and known for his outlandish opinions, told Focus magazine last October that 22
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Photography by Luke McComb
people who complain that models are dangerously thin are, “fat mummies sitting with their bags of crisps in front of the television, saying that thin models are ugly.” With such a powerful voice of the business speaking against the movement, it is difficult to imagine all designers siding with the CFDA. Syracuse University students and professors have responded to the unrealistic standard of a size zero. Jackie Potter, a senior fashion design major, points out that overly thin models take the attention away from the clothes, rather than putting them in the spotlight. She makes her samples a size six, which she believes to be a comfortable fitting for an average American woman. Maxi Roberts, a sophomore fashion designer major, worked for a major fashion label in the summer and found that the fitting model was a size six. Despite being tall and beautiful, Roberts knows that she would be considered too heavy to model in a runway show. In late March, designer Michael Kors announced he would only hire models age 16 and above. “I think super-young girls used to be the exception,’’ Kors said at a reception before a panel discussion at Harvard, “Now, they’re completely common. That’s something I see as a huge problem.” Perhaps the first designer step of many to come, it seems up to designers to change their ways. Potter believes a positive attitude toward fit and athletic bodies will help incite change. First Lady Michelle Obama’s toned arms receive attention on fashion websites and magazines such as Glamour. Potter hopes continued press surrounding healthy lifestyles will set a new standard of beauty. As for Gemma Ward, she put her modeling career on a hiatus, probably for the best.
Clockwise from left: Turquoise flower pin, Joette's, $12; Vintage mesh and enameled bird necklace, Michelle DaRin Jewelry, michelledarinjewelry.com, $250; Gold leaf earrings, Rhodadendron; Jeweled bronze flower ring, Joette’s, $16; Ladybug jewel pin, Joette’s, $12; Leaf necklace with enameled blue bird, Michelle DaRin Jewelry, $275; Purple flower clip-on earrings, Joette’s, $12; Domed enamel necklace, Michelle DaRin Jewelry, $250; Owl jewel ring, Joette’s, $14 spring 2010 • ZIPPED
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