Loupe. Issue 26. Autumn 2022. by Christopher Ward

The magazine of Christopher Ward. Issue 26. Autumn 2022

Inspired by the iconic dive watches of the 1950s, the C65 Aquitaine GMT is the perfect symbol of European cooperation. Designed in England, manufactured in Switzerland and named after the French coastal birthplace of Jacques Cousteau, it brings mid-20th century design together with elite modern engineering. Its sapphire bezel is 50 percent tougher than ceramic, while the Sellita SW330-2 movement lets you monitor two time zones at once. Want to know more? Do your research. christopherward.com

Add a little cordiale to your entente

For Christopher Ward, Trident has a special place in our hearts. Launched in 2009, it symbolises everything the company stands for: a professional dive watch series that delivers the highest levels of engineering and finishing – at a price that belies its elite quality.So,when CW decided to launch a thinner, lighter Trident as an alternative to the main line, I knew this was a tale that had to be properly told. On page 14, Matt Bielby talks to the people who made the C60 Trident Pro 300 possible and finds out where it sits in the CW range – and what it says about the future of AnotherTrident.biglaunch is the 36mm C63 Sealander Automatic. With four limited edition coloured versions to choose from, plus black and white models that join the permanent collection, this is a range that throws the rule book out of the window. Read its story on page 36. Away from watches, we journey to the USA’s Deep South to experience the spectacle of NASCAR; look at Blue Marine Foundation’s efforts to stop overfishing in the Indian Ocean, and learn how a sci-fi classic showcased Seiko’s most out-there timepiece. Enjoy the issue!

The magazine of Christopher Ward. Loupe.

Now, it may be that the average member of the Christopher Ward Forum doesn’t know his Jordan 3 Retro UNCs from his XXXV DNAs (or maybe they do!) but when it comes to watches they certainly know a thing or three. Which is why, when we asked them to describe their perfect dive watch – other than the C60 Trident Pro 600 of course! – we listened carefully. Very carefully. Our version of Nike’s collaborative approach to NPD resulted in the outstanding new C60 Trident Pro 300 which adorns the cover of this magazine. Its slimmer profile, tweaked bezel design and exhibition case-back were all Forum ‘must-haves’ but the lower entry-price point, well, that’s just a classic CW slam-dunk!

Nike famously engaged with kids playing on their local basketball courts in New York’s Bronx neighbourhood as part of their New Product Development Programme (NPD) back in the day. It spawned some of the company’s best products and gave Nike kudos among these key opinion-formers: kudos that enabled Nike to steal a march on its competitors.

Mike & Peter

Editor: Anthony Teasdale Art Director: Jamie Gallagher Designer: Sam Burn Photography: Peter Canning 1 Park St, Maidenhead, Berkshire SL6 1SL christopherward.com

conversationsDeep

5 Contents Features 12 – 23 Deeper than you think The story of the new C60 Trident Pro 300 24 – 26 Something fishy? Blue Marine Foundation on EU overfishing in the Indian Ocean 28 –29 The power of the ’d0g Meet the micro watch brand that pushes colour to the extreme Regulars 6 – 11 The Brief Latest news from Christopher Ward and the wider world of watches 40 – 43 O-pinion Cultural highlights for the season ahead 45 Great wearerswatchSigourney Weaver in Alien 46 – 49 Insight Ken Kessler on the Rolex ‘drought’ 50 Timespan Amelia Earhart becomes the first woman to fly the Atlantic 30 – 35 A day at the races Discover the all-American spectacle of NASCAR 36 – 39 Small(er) is beautiful Why the 36mm C63 Sealander Automatic shows size does matter American race day 30 — 35 A new Trident 12 — 23 Rockin’ hotel 40 — 43

Big prizes for watchmakersnext-gen

Latest news from Christopher Ward and the wider world of watches

Christopher Ward has supported Birmingham City University’s BA Horol ogy course for over a decade in its quest to expand and strengthen the UK watch industry.InJune, CEO Mike France and technical manager Andrew Henry went to Birming ham to present prizes to second- and thirdyear undergraduates on the course. The first was the Christopher Ward prize for outstanding technical achievement – aimed at third-year students. The award judges students on their technological achievements in designing and making a clock for their final project. This year, the prize was won by Loshitha Bandara (AKA ‘Loshi’), who created a triple-calendar table clock.

Mike France said: “We felt Loshi had gone above and beyond with his polishing, finishing and overall horological design. And we were proud to award him the prize of a C65 Aquitaine GMT.” The second award was the Christopher Ward prize for outstanding application in CAD (computer-aided design) using Solidworks software. This is aimed at second-year students and requires them to design a horological instrument and accurately communicate the design in a digital format.

The winner was Marcus Laing, who won a four-day trip to the CW atelier in Biel, Switzerland, including a day at innovative watch manufacturer Armin Strom – which helped in the production of the C60 Concept. The two runners-up, Alexandra Verejanu and Andrew Hyatt, won a day at Christopher Ward HQ, plus time with Andrew“We’reHenry.sothankful for the support of Christopher Ward,” said course director Professor Jeremy Hobbins. “The students were tickled pink by the prizes – it’s incred ibly generous. We’re looking forward to see even greater engagement in next year’s group and to continue to play our part in the revival of British watchmaking.”

Summer in Biel is a magical time: we get a lot of tourists from all over Switzerland who come to swim in the lake. I often go for a dip before work – it’s life-affirming. That’s not to say we’ve just been enjoying the sun!

The latest news from our Swiss HQ

In fact, we’ve been as busy as ever. Frank Stelzer, our technical director, has been testing the ‘Bel Canto’ watch, which will be available in November. To say this is a unique timepiece is an understatement. It will blow you away.

Frank Stelzer checks the pitch of every movement

Frank’s been checking out the watch’s materials, finish ing and engineering. As its movement’s creator, he has the most intimate knowledge of the piece, so everything has to be passed by him. However, we’re all involved to an ex tent – especially judging the most vital component: sound! To be able to work with people like Frank on a watch as unique as the ‘Gong’ is one of the reasons why I love the job. The accessibility to Lake Biel is just a bonus!

Jörg Bader Jr, product manager, Biel

Letter from Biel

We’re serious in our commitment to sustainability at Christopher Ward: something you can see in everything from our packaging to our #tide straps – made from recy cled ocean plastic. But that’s not all we do. Twice a year, we at the Biel atelier spend a day doing sustainable activities. This time we built hives for bees in conjunction with the World Wildlife Fund – everyone was involved, and it was great fun. We believe that corporate responsibility involves a lot more than releasing a press release telling the world how green you are.

Everton x Christopher Ward 8

Everton, for their part, believe the deal works for both parties. Richard Kenyon, the club’s director of communications, said: “It’s our great pleasure to bring on board Christopher Ward and to link up with a company that not only has shared values in terms of ambition, innovation and community but whose founders have a deep understanding, respect and pas sion for Everton Football Club and what we stand for.”

So when Christopher Ward was approached by Everton, the company knew it was dealing with one of the giants of the game. The club are known and respected worldwide, and their method of doing things, the ‘Everton way’, chimes with Christopher Ward’s ethos of bringing together tradition and modernity. That’s why Christopher Ward is proud to announce that it has signed a five-year deal from the 2022-23 season to be Everton FC’s official global timing partner. Through the partnership, Christopher Ward branding will appear on official Everton channels and assets, including backdrops and LED screens at Goodison Park on match days.

assetschannelsofficialwillWardChristopherbrandingappearonEvertonand

Everton are one of the most respected names in English football – known as the ‘people’s club’ in their home city of Liverpool.Sincetheir inception in 1878 as St Domingo’s FC – they were initially a Sunday school team based in the Everton district – the club has won nine league championships, five FA Cups and the UEFA Cup Winners’ Cup. No team has played more seasons in the English top flight.

Christopher Ward has strong links to Liverpool, and the company has often talked about the city’s watchmaking her itage in its communications. Mike France, CEO and co-founder of Christopher Ward, is from Formby, just north of the city, and is also a long-time Everton fan. He said: “Becoming Everton’s first global timekeeping partner, apart from being a great honour, is a milestone for Christopher Ward in our mission to make the pleasure of owning a premium mechanical watch accessible to the many – not just the few.

Christopher Ward partners with one of the giants of English football in a deal that will benefit company, club, community and fans alike

“And while, as a lifelong Evertonian, I’m acutely aware of the club’s history, loyal worldwide fanbase and bright future – as evidenced by the new stadium at Bramley-Moore Dock – it’s the deeprooted commitment to their local community that convinced us this could be a partnership with a purpose beyond purely commercial benefits.”

Chistopher Ward will create moneycan’t-buy experiences for fans: in July we arranged for four CW customers to watch the Blues train in Washington DC before taking them to the Everton vs Arsenal game at the M&T Bank Stadium, Baltimore. The company will also work with the club’s charity, Everton In The Community.

Everton in numbers 10 LEAGUE9 CHAMPIONSHIP TITLES SEASONS65WONIN THE TOP FLIGHT OF ENGLISH FOOTBALL NUMBER147OF SUPPORTERS' CLUBS AROUND THE WORLD 1-0 THE RESULT OF EVERTON’S FIRST MATCH (AND VICTORY) – AGAINST EVERTON CHURCH CLUB IN 1878 FA5CUP FINAL WINS EUROPEAN1 CUP WINNERS CUP (1985) 18921892GOODISON PARK IS OPENED: THE FIRST PURPOSE-BUILT FOOTBALL STADIUM IN 1938ENGLAND THE YEAR THEY PUT PRINCE RUPERT’S TOWER – A HOLDING JAIL CELL BUILT IN 1787 – ON THEIR 39.6MBADGE CLUB AND PLAYER FOLLOWERS ON SOCIAL MEDIA

The watch, waterproof to 150m, is as yet unnamed (suggestions always welcome!), but the Christopher Ward team have been looking closely at mid-century timepieces for design inspiration. The era’s utilitarian aesthetic will play a significant role in the new piece, though with a nod to today’s more liberal attitude to colour.

However, the continuing popularity of Christopher Ward’s C65 Sandhurst chronometer – modelled on the classic Smiths W10 – has proved that field watches have a fanbase way beyond military enthusiasts. This hasn’t gone unnoticed at CW. Which is why the teams in Maidenhead and Biel are working on a new field watch that mixes the genre’s austere aesethtic with the architecture and design of CW’s latest line.

Designed originally for soldiers, field watches feature stainless steel cases, unfussy dials and movements engi neered for accuracy. Simplicity and practicality are all.

Drawing board

The ‘field watch’ has long been overlooked in the world of horology in favour of dive, dress and sports watches.

From what we know, the watch will be powered by an automatic movement – and depending on how it’s received, may accommodate a GMT version.

“As an Aquitaine, it’ll have vintage styling,” says Will. “At present we’re playing with colours – black, green and blue – but we haven’t made our final decision yet.”

Designer Will Brackfield says: “The popularity of the C65 Sandhurst has shown us there’s a market for field watches. We’re basing this new timepiece on the Aquitaine, but unlike the existing models this won’t have a dive bezel.”

C60 Trident Pro 300 12 With its svelte profile, the new C60 Trident Pro 300 is not just a more affordable baby brother to Trident 3, but a chic all-rounder made for day-to-day wear

A deep-seated love of dive watches is hard-wired into most watch aficianados. This, despite the fact few of us ever go underwater with one – and if we do, we’re unlikely to venture more than 20 metres down. It makes the average 100m-rated dive watch – let alone a beast like Christopher Ward’s C60 Trident Pro 600 – seem almost over-specced. So, what’s the appeal?Partly, it’s that divers are tough and practical, the wrist’s frippery-free equiv alent of a sports SUV. These are versatile working watches that say, “I’m durable and dependable and (almost as an aside), I’ll always look good, too.” Then there’s the fact James Bond wore one, of course, and we’d all like a little of his confidence. All this capability has a price, however, and that price is bulk. With less in-yourface watches currently trending, the most capable divers – wide as a saucer, thick as a hockey puck – look less ideal as daily wearers, no matter their many virtues. May we suggest an alternative?

A more package:accessibleonethat’s lighter, notably slimmer, and easier for more of us to enjoy more of the time

The new C60 Trident Pro 300 is just as handsome as its broad-shouldered Pro 600 big brother, but in a more accessi ble package: one that’s lighter, notably slimmer, and easier for more of us to enjoy more of the time. Yes, it inevitably sacrifices underwater performance – 300m is now your limit, which should be plenty – but the upsides are legion. “And anyway, even at 300m, you’ll explode before your watch does,” says Mike France, Christopher Ward CEO and Althoughco-founder.itseveryday name is the C60 Trident Pro 300, this watch has another in-house moniker too: ‘Trident 3.1’. Though not a replacement for Trident 3 – the existing Pro 600 3.0 and new Pro 300 will be made alongside each other – it does improve a range of details, as a car facelift might, and points the way to more exten sive changes that will come with Trident 4 in 2024.

Ready for action. The C60 Trident Pro 300 in green 19

“This will be many people’s first mechanical watch,” Mike says. “So the fact you can see the movement working is really important. Plus – to debunk an old myth –exhibition casebacks don’t impact water resistance.”

From this point on, Trident should be considered a two-tier line of watches, with the thicker, heavier, slightly more expensive (and more capable) C60 Trident Pro 600 – plus assorted other full-fat Tridents –near the top, and the new, slimmer, slight ly cheaper Trident Pro 300 just beneath.

The

attoWard’mark6,12,devicetwin-flagsisnowatthedateatandtheword‘Christopherrelocatedtherotorvisibletherear

“The forum’s a brilliant source of opin ion,” Mike says. “And we don't influence what’s said on there. But that’s great: you always learn more through criticism than praise. When they speak, we listen. We asked detailed questions about what they'd like to see for Trident 4, and some of their answers are incorporated here.”

Then there’s the overall look, which em braces the latest iteration of the ever-evolv ing Christopher Ward design language. The twin-flags device is now at 12, the date at 6, and the word mark ‘Christopher Ward’ relo cated to the rotor visible at the rear. There are exhibition casebacks across the range too, showing off Sellita’s SW200-1 move ment in its most highly finished form.

The list of changes made for Pro 300 may sound insignificant, but add up to far more than the sum of their parts. Many are a result of CW’s increasing cooperation with the independent Christopher Ward forum, now consulted on new models much earlier than before.

Like what? Well, most noticeably, the new watch is slimmer. Yes, both 600 and 300 come in three classic dive watch sizes –38mm, 40mm and 42mm – but a decrease in height, rendered possible by reducing water resistance, makes this latest model easier to slip under cuffs, and less likely to smack against door frames. It’s only shorter by 1.65mm or so – depending on case width – but size really does matter with watches, and each millimetre makes a difference.

Or, as product designer Will Brackfield, says: “It just looks cooler.”

A strong use of colour has been one of the big stories in watchmaking re cently, and the Trident Pro 300 launches with extended choices: the familiar black, blue or white dial options from the Pro 600 line, plus a brand-new olive green, somewhat military in feel. Also new is the bezel, which now comes in two parts: the regular rotating outer section with its coloured ceramic insert, and a fixed steel inner ring, with minute increments all the way around. It’s an aesthetic improve ment as much as a functional one, first trialled on the C60 #tide, but it certainly gives a more polished and detailed feel.

“Make no mistake,” Mike says, “this is a Trident Pro fully deserving of the name, just more refined and wearable than any we’ve made before. It’s a true all-rounder, and opens up Trident ownership to everyone.”

There are further incremental im provements. The Pro 300 boasts more lume than the 600, as the hour markers are marginally larger, and the new date window placement means fewer are trun cated, too. The date wheel colours match the watch face; a more aggressive and technical arrow-head seconds hand, influ enced by the C60 Concept, replaces the standard Trident design; and the bracelet is the new screwed pin version from the Aquitaine, with its increased taper down to 16.5mm at the clasp. It has extended micro-adjustment and an enhanced release system, making it easier to swap between straps. “As up to 65 percent of these watches will be bought on a bracelet, this makes a real difference,” Will says.

Technical specs

Functions: Hour, minute, central seconds, date Power reserve: 38 hours

Movement: Sellita SW200-1 Functions: Hour, minute, central seconds, date Power reserve: 38 hours C60 Trident Pro 300 42mm Diameter: 42mm Height: DialCrystal:Case:Lug-to-lug:11.5mm49.32mmStainlesssteelSapphirecolours:White,Black, Blue, Green Depth rating: 30 ATM / 300 metres Movement: Sellita SW200-1

The C60 Trident Pro 300 is an important watch, and likely to be an immediate best-seller, but it wouldn’t have happened – at least, not just yet – if Trident 4 hadn’t been bumped a year to September 2024 to make room for a whole new line. This will debut in 2023 and be, in its way, as signif icant as Sealander or Aquitaine – though what it is, of course, remains under wraps for now. But it’s because of this that we now get to enjoy a slimmer Pro, which would otherwise have arrived as part of the Trident 4 range, earlier than originally planned.

Functions: Hour, minute, central seconds, date Power reserve: 38 hours Available from £695 | $850 | €895

That the entry price can be kept to under £700 on a #tide strap, amazing value for any premium dive watch – and making each Pro 300 roughly £100 cheaper than the equivalent Pro 600 – just adds to its appeal.

C60 Trident Pro 300 38mm Diameter: 38mm Height: DepthDialCrystal:Case:Lug-to-lug:11mm45mmStainlesssteelSapphirecolours:White,Blackrating:30ATM/300 metres Movement: Sellita SW200-1

“This is a Trident Pro fully deserving of the name, just more refined and wearable than any we’ve made before”

C60 Trident Pro 300 40mm Diameter: 40mm Height: DialCrystal:Case:Lug-to-lug:11.3mm47.46mmStainlesssteelSapphirecolours:White,Black, Blue, Green Depth rating: 30 ATM / 300 metres

Blue Marine Foundation 24 Somethingfishy JESS RATTLE, OPENS THE CAN ON EUROPEAN OVERFISHING HEAD OF INVESTIGATIONS AT OF TUNA IN THE TROPICS BLUE MARINE FOUNDATION, A whoppingwaslanded from metric tonnes of tuna 1.2 million the Indian Ocean

A whopping 1.2 million metric tonnes of tuna from the Indian Ocean was landed in 2018, with an estimated dock value of $2.7 billion. The zone is one of the world’s most important fisheries, not only for the in dustrial, distant-water Spanish and French fleets that supply the processing plants with fish to be canned and shipped off to Europe, but also for the coastal communi ties who depend on tuna for survival. The Maldives is ranked highest in the world in terms of tuna consumption at 163kg per capita, with the fishery industry supporting the livelihoods of over 30 percent of the nation’s population.

When we think of tuna, some might picture delicious, seared steaks with soy, or thinly sliced sashimi. Others might think of conveniently stacked cans on a shelf in their pantry. A few might picture the fish themselves – powerful, predatory animals that can reach weights of at least 400lb (190kg) and lengths of nearly seven feet. But few will think about the missing tuna in the Indian Ocean – missing be cause they’ve been caught in their millions as juveniles by giant industrial fishing ves sels, far out of sight of those who consume them. And yet, these missing fish should be at the forefront of our minds, as the globally vital Indian Ocean yellowfin tuna stock has been overfished in the Indian Ocean since 2015.

A French purse seine vessel loads skipjack and yellowfin tuna attracted by a fish aggregation device in the Indian Ocean

Christopher Ward is an official supporter of Blue Marine Foundation

The EU takes more longhasIOTCthanyellowfinoverfishedtunaanyothermemberanddonesosincebefore2015

Perhaps because of this, the Maldives has taken a leading role in trying to put management measures in place to protect the migratory yellowfin stock. This has been most apparent at recent meet ings of the Indian Ocean Tuna Commis sion (IOTC) – the UN FAO intergovernmental body responsible for managing these shared stocks and bringing together the 30-or-so countries that fish them. However, despite the best efforts of states like the Maldives and Kenya, yellowfin tuna continues to be heavily overfished. Four consecutive stock-rebuild ing plans have all failed to bring fishing pressure down to a sustainable level. One might be forgiven for assuming that Indian Ocean countries with exten sive coastlines and large populations like India, Pakistan and Tanzania would be the biggest harvesters. However, Spain alone catches more than double the amount of tropical tuna in the Indian Ocean than these three combined. In fact, the EU takes more overfished yellowfin tuna than any other IOTC member and has done so since long before 2015. Spain is able to achieve this thanks to its fleet of huge-purse ‘seine’ vessels that each use hundreds of drifting fish aggregating devices (or ‘FADs’) to catch whole schools of mostly juvenile fish, as well as (unintended) sharks and turtles.

The impact that these FADs have on fragile marine habitats was described by April Burt in Loupe last year. It seems that fishing pressure will now need to drop by almost a third to save the stock – no mean feat, but an achievable one if short-sightedness and greed are re placed by cooperation and accountability on the part of those most responsible.

Do your research. christopherward.com Sink differently

The C60 #tide isn’t just a professional dive watch but an example of how innovation can be harnessed for the good of the marine environment. #tide is a social enterprise that transforms discarded ocean plastic into materials that can be used in sustainable product design – such as the C60 #tide. A watch that not only boasts a pure sapphire dial, chronometer movement and water-resistance to 600m, but a woven strap and case back insert made from #tide’s ingenious upcycled plastic. Want to know more?

Studio Underd0g takes a revolutionary approach to watch design that puts colour centre stage

There’s no doubt about it: UK watch making is undergoing a renaissance – with microbrands, established companies, engineers and educational establishments all pulling in the same (positive) direction. One brand that’s turning heads is Studio Underd0g. Founded by designer Richard Benc in 2020, its mechanical watches combine beautiful minimalist design with the sort of primary colours more associated with anoraks than timepieces.LikeChristopher Ward, Studio Under0g is a member of the Alliance of British Watch & Clockmakers, and though it’s released just five watches, it’s already garnered a cult following among watch fans. Here, we talk to Richard about why he started the business, his inspira tions, and the small part Peppa Pig and Darth Vader have played in the Studio Under0g story.

Hi Richard. How did you get into designing watches? After studying product design and manufacture, I took a design job at a watch company. I had little knowledge of the indus try, but it didn’t take me long to fall in love with horology. I spent my first year designing character watches, anything from Peppa Pig to Darth Vader, then moved on to developing watches for Braun. Why did you start Studio Underd0g? It was an accident! When the UK was put into lockdown in 2020, I found myself with ample free time (since the pubs were shut) so started to tinker around with designs and posted a few concept renders online. The response I got was overwhelmingly positive, which motivated me to continue to develop my ideas. In essence, Studio Underd0g was a passion project I never intended to bring to market.

Richard Benc

Studio Underd0g 28

Was it difficult buying cases and move ments? I had a bit of a head-start when it came to working with suppliers as I’d vis ited a number of factories in both Swit zerland and China during my six years in the industry. By the time I began Studio Underd0g I’d already built a network of people that I trusted. How many watches have you released so far? So far, five. The Watermel0n, Desert Sky, Go0fy Panda, Mint Ch0c Chip and recently a limited edition Aubergine watch in collaboration with Fratello – a watch website. The first three were all released in March 2021 with the Water mel0n catching the eye of many curious enthusiasts. Why is colour so important to you? It was a way for me to rebel against the stuffy ‘rules’ of watch design: and to pose the question, “Why so serious?” I wanted to ensure that my watches were an honest tribute to vintage time pieces of the past, but with a modern, playful twist. What are your design inspirations? I’m influenced by the likes of Dieter Rams [legendary Braun designer] whose less-is-more approach inspires me. This may seem like an odd choice considering my watches are known for their vibrant colour and playful details: however, I’m always careful to ensure that form does not interfere with function.

And you obviously love details, too… I’m obsessive about them. I spent a lot of time working to ensure the dial felt balanced. I was able to achieve this de spite the varied sizes of the sub-dials by offsetting the branding and movement details. This allowed the chronograph seconds hand to pass through uninter rupted at 12 o’clock. Idiosyncratic, yet balanced. What’s your favourite non-SU watch? I’m a huge fan of the Gerald Genta Retrograde Mickey Mouse watches [below]. I love the juxtaposition of the serious watchmaking required to make the Retrograde that has Mickey Mouse grinning at you on the dial. It’s ‘party in the front, business in the back’ – which is the type of humour that I appreciate. Where next for SU? I’d like to play my part in the resur gence of British horology. The next year or so will be vital as whatever comes next will shape the brand’s DNA. Colour and playfulness will always be an inte gral part of Studio Under0g, but for fu ture projects I also want to experiment with materials and take advantage of advancements in manufacturing techniques. underd0g.com

THEATDAYA NASCAR 30

“I’ve never done it any other way. It has a grain, a visual difference, and it’s got soul. It’s like music: there’s a big difference between listening to a record and listening to aAnddownload.”because of this, the images he’s created are as authentic and gritty as NASCAR itself. And there’s not a yacht anywhere to be seen. Spirit Of The Southern Speedways is published by Reel Art Press

“When the race starts, it shakes your bones – you better wear earplugs,” he says. Bristol, Tennessee is a tight track: it’s incredible – you’re so close to it. You can feel the ground shake. Then everyone screams. I was shooting with my face pressed against the cage. And could feel the rubber off the tyres shoot past me.

Photographer Hunter Barnes, who shoots only on film, was invited to go on the road with Chip Ganassi Racing throughout one NASCAR season. And now, the best of his pictures have been collated in a brilliant new book, Spirit Of The Southern Speedways. “I was given a backstage pass,” says Hunter, originally from North Carolina. “But I wanted to look at the parking lot because that’s where I saw the fans. And no matter where I went, there was a real sense of community among them – they’ve known each other for years.”

Fun!”Hunter’s use of film drew a lot of atten tion from fans and workers alike.

In much of the world, elite motorsport is a byword for a particular style of luxury. Fancy parties on yachts, beautiful women holding umbrellas on the starting grid and middle-aged men wearing sunglasses in nightclubs. But in the US, it’s different. While F1 has started to make inroads here, if you want to experience the best of motorsport, there’s only one race in town: NASCAR. For the uninitiated, NASCAR (National Association for Stock Car Auto Racing) events occur at tracks all over the USA, but the sport’s especially popular in the south.

NASCAR inhabits a world often ignored by the elites of the east and west coasts. But for Hunter, its races deliver a sensory experience unmatched by any other sport.

“I love film – the process and pace –and I still print in the darkroom,” he says.

RACES

“WHEN THE RACE STARTS, IT SHAKES YOUR BONES – YOU BETTER WEAR EARPLUGS!” 32

37 Colour has recently been having a bit of a ‘moment’ in the usually conservative world of premium watchmaking. It’s a trend that Christopher Ward has embraced.

The limited-edition 36mm Sealander Automatic delivers a hit of vibrant colour with a case size that looks to the past – and points to a more fluid future

“It’s perfect for me, not just because of the size, but because the colours let me express my personality. For women, we appreciate an accessory with power, and these watches do this.”

For the watch’s designer Will Brackfield, case size is key to its appeal.

“The colours make this collection suitable for everybody: 10 years ago I wouldn't have worn a watch with a bright red dial, but now I’d actively seek it out. Maybe it’s the Harry Styles effect!” Aside from black and white, there are four colour options available – each limited to just 200 pieces each. ‘Lucerne Blue’ is inspired by the blue of Lake Lucerne in central Switzerland, while ‘Jura Green’ references the Jura mountains that run between France and Switzerland.

The C65 Chronograph, launched in 2020, brings late-’60s pop-art colours together with stopwatch timing, while the C65 Super Compressor’s sun ray-blue dial is complemented by yellow and white accents, plus an orange/white handset.As2022 has progressed, the appe tite for challenging colours has grown in watchmaking with vibrant shades appear ing on the dials of watches from both es tablished players and micro-brands. And, as with Harry Styles ripping up the gender rule book, you’re now free to choose what ever colour you want: rules around ‘boys’ and ‘girls’ shades have been consigned to theThedustbin.second – and not unrelated – move ment in watchmaking is around size. After the giant dials of the 2010s, there’s been a movement to smaller case sizes that are less about showing off, and more a measured expression of personal style.

A six-watch collection inspired by the colours of Swiss topography and English flora, and one that takes us from summer into autumn effortlessly: available in a case size that both looks back to timepieces of the past while appealing to those with slim mer wrists who’ve felt left out of premium watches before.

In the metal, the watch is a beauty. As a Sealander it’s immediately wearable, and the combination of the range’s design aesthetic and reduced case is a joy to behold.“We wanted to expand the Sealand er Automatic range with an offering for those that loved the #GODO Sealander attitude but wanted a smaller case size,” says Christopher Ward CEO Mike France.

Francesca Robinson, Christopher Ward’s marketing director, says the 36mm Sealander is a significant sign of how the company is attempting to widen its appeal – without alienating its existing customer base.

‘New Forest Yellow’ takes its name and inspiration from the autumn leaves in the ancient Hampshire woodland, while ‘Acer Red’ pays tribute to the trees and shrubs of the maple family. And as a bonus, each of the four LE watches comes with a complimentary leather strap – matched exactly to the dial colour. Perfecting the colours was the job of Will Brackfield. “We could only achieve the deep shade we wanted by using layers of lacquer,” he says. “The result is a dial incredibly rich in colour – and one that provides the perfect background to the indexes and handset.”

“It was the transitioning of Rolex’s Explorer back to a 36mm case that convinced me that smaller watches were viable again,” he says. “We’ve reached ‘peak big’ – with 42mm for a dive and 40mm for a dress model about as large as we’d go.

People want to be less showy about what they own: now it’s more about subtlety.”

These trends sparked conversations at Christopher Ward’s HQ in Maidenhead and the atelier in Biel, Switzerland. Discussions which led to initial drawings, prototypes and then the firm commitment to launch a range of watches smaller in size and coura geous in Welcomecolour.to the 36mm C63 Sealander Automatic Limited Edition.

Great for the green: The new 36mm Sealander in Jura Green 38

The 36mm in Lucerne Blue

36mm Diameter – 36mm HeightDialCrystalCaseLug-to-lug11.25mm-42.87mm–Stainlesssteel-Sapphirecolours-Lucerne Blue, Acer Red, New Forrest Yellow, Jura Green, Black, and White Depth rating - 15 ATM / 150 metres Movement – Sellita SW200-1 Functions - Hour, minute, central seconds, date Power reserve - 38 hours VintagePriced: Oak Leather strap: UK £635, US $765, EU €840; UKBracelet:£770, US $925, EU €1,015

“Not having the brand’s full name on the dial is something we’ve been planning for,” says Francesca. “Again, from a female perspective, I prefer to have the abstract logo rather than the full name: it makes it a bit more mysterious.” Like the original Selander Automatic, the 36mm version is powered by Sellita’s SW200-1 – an automatic movement known for its accuracy and anti-shock mecha nism. And despite the attractive price, it boasts an elaboré finish more associated with timepieces many times the cost.

The 36mm on a male wrist 39 Another big win for buyers is the replacement of the old ‘Christopher Ward’ logo-type with the fresh twin-flags em blem, which has – until Aquitaine – played a supporting role to the name on the dial.

The ace Acer Red

Finally, apart from the free matching straps that come with the limited edition versions, you can buy the watch on a vin tage oak leather strap or a marine-grade steel bracket – all with our quick-release system for easy swapping. “These watches have an easy wearabil ity,” says Will. “It’s not about what gender you are, how big your wrist is, whether you work from home or go to an office every day. It’s about wearing a timepiece that suits your personality, that lets you play by your rules. Not anyone else's.”

The 36mm on a female wrist

C63 Sealander

Technical specs

40 timeofworthythat’sCultureyour A new hotel pays tribute to thoroughfaremostLondon’smusical

Londonthearoundclockhasplentyoffamousroads.

Leading from the perennially-dodgy neighbourhood of St Giles to Charing Cross Rd – Soho’s eastern border – it’s been the home of the UK’s music industry since the early 20th century when music publisher Lawrence Wright relocated his business here in 1911. It was here Bowie hung out with Lou Reed, Hipgnosis designed the covers of rock’s most iconic albums, and artists such as The Kinks, Rolling Stones, Jimi Hendrix, Stevie Wonder and Bob Marley all recorded in its numerous studios. And now it’s home to a Chateau Denmark, a hotel that’s not only an incredible place to stay (and play) but which pays tribute to a road that’s still crammed with musical instrument shops, bars, clubs, studios and management companies.Thoughto call it a hotel doesn’t really do it justice. The property comprises 16 buildings – which go from previously hidden Georgian mews houses to grand Victorian arcades – with 55 ‘Session Rooms’ and ‘Apartments’ for guests. And while this is a luxury hotel in the most contemporary sense of the world, it’s one rooted in the history of Denmark Street – something you can see in the decoration and fittings. One mews house is now called ‘I Am Anarchy’ which pays tribute to its former residents, the Sex Pistols (witness the tartan decoration and graffitied chairs), while the Flitcroft Apartments are a goth’s dream with a hand-carved, four-poster bed and stand-alone bath tub. As befitting an area that also played hosts to numerous live venues, including musicians’ hangout the Gioconda Cafe, Chateau Denmark has its own performance building, Outernet – which boasts a 2,000-capacity underground venue called Now Trending. All these features add up to a property that’s a must-visit for locals and tourists alike. You might even bump into a Sex Pistol or two while you’re there. chateaudenmark.com

But few are more iconic than Denmark Street.

Works like The Basket of Apples, The Card Players and Mont Sainte Victoire bring to life the south of France in a way that had never been done before – with realism and abstraction in tandem. This has sealed his reputation as one of the most influential painters of the modern era, and why this exhibition is the must-see art event of the autumn.

While you can find paintings by the acknowledged masters on the print/coast er/tea cosy of your choice, one of their number is usually left out: Paul Cézanne: a painter who Claude Monet described as “the greatest of us all”. Now you can see his finest paintings, watercolours and drawings at a once-in-a-generation exhibition this autumn at Tate Modern, London.

The exhibition Cézanne, Tate Modern It’s difficult to imagine, but there was a time when impressionism was the world’s most revolutionary art form: as Monet, Pissarro, Manet, Degas and Renoir dragged painting kicking and screaming toward the 20th century – and placed light and colour at the centre of every work.

Paul Cezanne runs from October 5th, 2022 – March 23rd 2023, Tate Modern, London Core appeal: Still Life With Fruit Dish

The Edge: it’s all in the mind 42 The docmentary The Edge Cricket might be the ultimate slow sport, but – like its American cousin, baseball – it’s always inspired excellent writing: from CLR James’s Beyond The Boundary to Mike Brearley’s The Art Of Captaincy You’ll find great writing (and more) in The Edge, a documentary about the rise and fall of the England team between 2009 and 2013: the only England side to reach the number-one spot in the ICC rankings. The Edge isn’t just a film about crick eting success: it’s a deep dive into the efforts players and coaches go to to be the best – and the toll this has on their mentalFeaturinghealth.contributions from the likes of captain Andrew Strauss, players Kevin Pietersen and Sir Alastair Cook, plus coach Andy Flower, the film mixes behind-thescenes footage with candid one-on-one interviews.Likegolf or tennis, the difference between success can be a matter of millimetres – add in the relentless tension of a five-day test and the heat of the sun – and it’s little wonder that so many play ers eventually run out of steam: mentally and physically. The Edge is available on all streaming channels

Using blocks of colour to denote depth and using multiple perspectives in one work, Cézanne (1839-1906) bridged the gap between impressionism and experi mentation that would follow with Picasso, Matisse and Braque.

Julie continued to make more animals – taking in everything from donkeys to sloths, and racoons to hedge hogs (a hedgehog called ‘Norman’ to be exact).After putting them online, Julie got in touch with Longleat who agreed to put it in a more fitting setting. The result is a menagerie of animals that delights adults and children alike.

Animalmagic:LockdownZoo

For Julie, the collection also shows what can be done with items which we’d normally throw away.

“The buttons and beads would other wise have been destined for landfill,” says Julie. “And that as time went on, local charity shops saved broken and tangled jewellery for me, which, again, would have gone to landfill.”

The day out

Lockdown Zoo Longleat has long been known for its safari park – the first to open outside Africa in 1966. But now a new selection of ‘animals’ is drawing visitors to the venue in WIlt shire.The ‘Lockdown Zoo’ is a collection of creatures made from beads and buttons by graphic designer Julie Thomas from Malvern in Worcestershire.

The ‘zoo’ began life on the first day of the Covid lockdown in March 2020 when her grandsons, five-year-old Ralph and seven-year-old Seb, asked if she could make a giraffe for them.

“Before lockdown they were just a collection of buttons and beads,” she says. “I had experimented with making things like charms to hang on trees, but I had never attempted to make an animal before.”

christopherward.com ‘Spelunker’:

Let’s hear it for the ‘spelunkers’ – the heroic subterranean explorers of the 1970s. And the inspiration behind ‘GMT-explorer’ watches, which provided 24-hour timekeeping for light-starved cavers. Now we’ve resurrected the genre with the C63 Sealander GMT. Not only does it boast a twin timezone movement, a hi-vis 24-hour hand and a dial that’s as legible as it is beautiful, but you don’t have to be a spelunker to wear one. Want to know more? Do your research. try saying that a undergroundmile

The film made the Seiko 7A28-7000 a hit with watch-lovers – so much so that in 2015, the company re-released it in two colourways. Though this time, they omitted the ‘Speedmaster’ logo that had been engraved into the bracelet of the original – seemingly without Omega’s permission.

WeaverSigourneywatch-wearers

While the Seiko 7A28-7000 is a design classic, it was only when it was worn by Sigourney Weaver (as Ripley) that it became an icon. A perfect example of how celebrity and charisma can elevate products to something else entirely.

Great

When you’re trying to kill the universe’s most terrifying flesh-eating monster, you need a watch you can rely on. A watch that’s not just accurate – thanks to its quartz chronograph movement – but robust enough to withstand the razor-sharp teeth of the perennially hungry/angry Xenomorph.

The result was the Seiko 7A28-7000 (AKA the ‘Ripley’) – a piece of design every bit as uncompromising as the DeLorean. Powered by Seiko’s Calibre 7A28, the world’s first quartz chronograph movement with analogue dials, Seiko eventually produced 40 variations, including another model – the ‘Bishop’ – that also appeared in Aliens. The futuristic looks of the Seiko 7A28-7000 made it perfect for a film that takes place in 2179. We first see the watch on Ripley’s wrist around the 47-minute mark as she rescues the orphan girl Newt. It then accompanies her as she seeks to defeat her formidable opponent – a timepiece every bit as iconic as the badass who wears it.

We are, of course, talking about Seiko’s 7A28-7000, as seen on the wrist of Ellen Ripley (Sigourney Weaver) in James Cameron’s 1986 film, Aliens. After taking a hypersleep of 57 years, Ripley wakes up, adopts an orphan girl and goes to war against the beasts that devoured her crewmates in the preceding Alien film of 1979.The Seiko on her wrist is wildly futuristic – an offcentre chronograph with a panel stuck to the side of the case from which the start/stop/reset buttons are placed. The dial is equally striking, with subdials placed inside a ‘smiley’ opening and an orange-black handset that contrasts with the white markings. It’s a bizarre and beautiful timepiece, which should come as no surprise when you find out who designed it. In 1983, Seiko commissioned Italian Giorgetto Giugiaro to develop a chronograph timepiece. Giugiaro was the designer behind the DeLorean gull-wing sports car that was notorious for its futuristic looks and less-than-futuristic performance (It would later find fame for its time-travelling abilities in Back To The Future).

Look at the various elements. First – and I am a militant free-market type, not a socialist – there’s good oldfashioned capitalism at work. While I prefer an enlightened form of greed, with some limits and social conscience at play, the law of supply-and-demand currently enables As prices for Rolex and Patek Philippe timepieces reach astronomical levels, Ken Kessler explains what’s behind the overheated market – and why it won’t be cooling any time soon

When the Rolex and Patek Philippe madness began I can’t say, but I knew it was a ‘thing’ when the brand manager of a rival house uttered two words: “purchase history”. I was attending a press event in March, when, for some reason, the Rolex/Patek frenzy had ramped up another level. It was probably in the wake of the Tiffany blue-dialled Nautiluses changing hands for five (or more) times retail price, while some Rolex or other had been flipped for a similar multiple. What was happening? Were watches the new Bitcoin? It was another horological perfect storm (see Loupe 25) with Covid-19 causing both slow-downs at factories and thus supply issues, added to (always welcomed) exponential increases in demand, followed by both Rolex and Patek Philippe making as many watches as they could without compromising quality. Hell, even if they wanted to, they couldn't ramp up production. Hiring and training watchmakers is not the same as staffing a car wash. No offence to car wash attendees, but the skill sets are quite different.There’s a book, or even a documentary for one of the luxury channels about the madness because this phenomenon is as interesting to the hoi polloi as any of reality shows which give viewers a glimpse into the lives of theAlongfilthy-rich-if-not-necessarily-famous.withallofthosedreadfulshows about S&F* wives in Beverly Hills or New Jersey and their wardrobes or the ‘work they’ve had done’; behind-the-scenes series about hotels which few can afford; and more relevant, upscale pawn shops wherein said spoiled wives dump their jewels and furs, this has all the ingredients of something which should be narrated by Jeremy Irons.

moneySilly Column

Judging by what friends have told me of their personal experiences trying to buy Rolexes, coupled with discussions with Authorised Dealers (‘ADs’ for short), it’s a troubling situation in which the retailers try to regulate sales. Their method is to satisfy regular, repeat customers, although one major retailer told me they absolutely want to encourage new clients, who haven’t yet made a major purchase.It’slike those ultra-limited-edition Ferraris. You don't get a shot at a car aimed at Jay Leno or Jay Kay or Chris Evans if you don’t already have a garage full of ’em. How this works in practice is one enters the AD, asks about Rolexes or Pateks, puts up with the shrugs, tales of two- or threeyear waiting lists and ultimately being informed that “Sir/Madam might like to consider X”, when the salesperson points to a duller model than is desired: say, a base Oyster with silver dial or any Patek which isn’t a Nautilus nor an Aquanaut. A friend of mine suffered this in Scotland, got ticked off, walked out of the shop and bought an Omega Speedmaster Professional instead of the Submariner he wanted. A few months later, the AD called and said they might be able to add him to the list. By the end of the day, he owned an Oyster he’ll never wear, but it got him on the list for a Sub. This is why those desperate to own a Rolex or Patek are driven to the ‘secondary market’. Consumer law prevents Would you spend $400,000 with a guy in a too-tight T-shirt?

48 some of the most venal toe-rags on earth to exploit the lust for watches that is so absurd it saw the recent launch of the Swatch/Omega collaboration, the MoonSwatch, inspiring some idiot to pay £3,000 for a £210 watch which isn’t a limited edition. Although the scale is vastly smaller, I think this putz will find – when he comes to sell it – that the return will be as diminutive as when the greatest schmuck of all paid millions for the first-ever tweet as an NFT and then tried to sell it. I heard the bids were a middling four figures. Not so Pateks and Rolexes. There is simply no end in sight, the prices climbing so rapidly that last year’s nowdiscontinued 41mm Rolex Oyster with the Tiffany-blue (yes, them again) dial commands £25,000-£30,000 after an initial retail price of around six grand. So ask yourself this: if you craved, say, a Rolex Submariner with a price circa £8,000, and after a few years of waiting you managed to acquire one at list, would you say “No” to a quick £10,000 profit… or £20,000 if you bought an all-green ‘Hulk’? Unless your pockets are as deep as the Mariana Trench, and you genuinely don't need the money, the odds are you’d jump at the deal. But it’s messy out there. If you want any Rolex or one of the hard-to-get Pateks, you need to get on the waiting list. Which brings us back to ‘purchase history’.

49 retailers from refusing sales, so they depend on lack of stock as a way to put a lid on things, while Rolex and Patek (nor the retailers) have no way of controlling what happens to a watch once it’s sold. The only thing they can do, if they recognise an habitual ‘flipper’, is to find a way not to sell to him in future. Retailers, too, have to be extracareful as no shop wants to lose AD status. Any profiteering, selling pieces for more than recommended retail would terminate their relationship, and thus cost them their most profitable lines. Still, it must be galling for both of the brands and their ADs to see the money which changes hands within days of a sale. So ask yourself another question: are you so desperate and/or impatient to play the waiting game to get your GMT-Master II or Aquanaut at retail, such that you will deal with unsavoury types who look like Eastenders’ Mitchell Brothers on a bad day? You know the ones, the smug, oily, sub-Arthur Daley types raving about horological inflation on Instagram, as they wave handfuls of Submariners and Nautiluses (and, of late, Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks) with telephone-number prices popping up on screen to show you how fast they’ve inflated? Would you spend $400,000 with a guy in a tootight T-shirt, a baseball cap and designer stubble, flaunting a Pelican case full of Hulks and Smurfs?

All of this explains a new breed of con artist: women thieves, dressed up as staff with clipboards, taking surveys, who target golf courses. They flatter and scam old farts with Rolex Day-Dates, finessing them off the golfers’ wrists as they rub up against them. You know the picture: 60-year-old silver-haired rich dude flattered by a twentysomething with a vaguely eastern European accent in a tootight T-shirt. Which seems to be the uniform for horological opportunists.

Of course, this new, salacious ring of distaff Rolex thieves might be a deep fake – as I hope applies to some of the watches they’ve purloined – but it seems as plausible as the little bastards on motorcycles grabbing watches off wrists as they speed down Bond Street. Be careful out there, as they used to say on Hill Street Blues.

A friend bought a

SubmarinerinsteadSpeedmasterofthehewanted

*Shopping and F*cking

As for this hack as a target? Though I am old fart who would be easy to rob or scam, who loves Rolex and Patek Philippe, who has five of the former and one of the latter, I’m safe because all are non-blingy vintage, and all are intended for the heir to my debts so – sadly – I don’t wear them much anymore, certainly not in London. But most of all, I don’t play golf.

14 56minshours 50

On June 17, 1928, they flew from Trepassey Harbor, Newfoundland, in a Fokker F.VIIb/3m (‘Friendship’) to Pwll near Burry Port, south Wales, in 20 hours and 40 minutes. But as Earhart didn’t know how to pilot the plane, she was literally a passenger. “Stultz did all the flying,” she said. “I was just baggage, like a sack of potatoes… maybe someday I’ll try it alone.”That day finally came on May 20, 1932, when 34-year-old Earhart left Harbour Grace, Newfoundland, intending to fly to Paris – as Lindbergh had done five years earlier. Piloting a single-engine Lockheed Vega 5B, and with US/Norwegian aviator Bernt Balchen as her technical advisor, she landed just north of Derry in North ern Ireland, 14 hours, 56 minutes later. While she’d aimed for France, a combi nation of strong northerly winds, freezing conditions, and engineering problems meant she had to shorten her trip. No matter, she’d become the first woman to fly the ThatAtlantic.wasjust the start of her adven tures. She became the first aviator (of either sex) to fly to Honolulu from the US mainland, and between 1930 and 1935, set seven women’s speed and distance aviationSadly,records.shelost her life when circum navigating the globe in July 1937, but her legacy lives on: an example to women and girls on what can be achieved if you’re determined enough. Way to go, Amelia.

InTimespan1917,shewastaken by a friend to a flying exhibition in Toronto put on by a World War I ace. Watching from an isolated spot, the pilot dive-bombed the pair. But while her pal dived for cover, Earhart stayed put. “I did not understand it at the time,” she said. “But I believe that little red aeroplane said something to me as it swished by.” This was the start of a love affair with aviation which would see her become the first woman to single-handedly fly across the Atlantic.

Born in 1897, Amelia Earhart grew up in Iowa – a rough-and-tumble child who loved going on adventures in the neigh bourhood with her sister, Grace (‘Pidge’). In 1904, Amelia constructed a ramp for her sled, which she put on the top of the toolshed. Her first ‘flight’ ended with a bruised lip and a torn dress. “Oh, Pidge,” she said. “It’s just like flying!” Her dream of taking to the air became a reality after her father Edwin bought her flying lessons while she was studying medicine in California. “By the time I had got two or three hundred feet off the ground, I knew I had to fly,” she said. For the next six months, Earhart ded icated herself to aviation and – thanks to an inheritance from her grandmoth er – bought a secondhand yellow Kinner Airster biplane in summer 1921. By 1927, while living in Massachusetts, she became a member – then vice-president – of the American Aeronautical Society in Boston.

And if 1927 was known for anything – and there was a lot going on in that year, as Bill Bryson’s book, One Summer, shows – it was Charles Lindbergh’s solo flight across the Atlantic in the Spirit Of St Louis. Lindbergh enjoyed the acclaim re served today for elite football players and Instagram influencers, and his endeavours inspired one Capt. Hilton H. Railey to do the trip himself, but with one crucial dif ference: he wanted to take a woman with him. That woman was Amelia Earhart.

Amelia Earhart was 20 years old when she realised she wanted to be a pilot…

christopherward.com Suit you, sir

A bespoke watch from Christopher Ward is much like a beautifully tailored suit from Savile Row. When the Canadian Watch Collectors’ Forum wanted to celebrate their 12th anniversary, our team created a made-to-measure spin on the C63 Sealander GMT with a deep-red maple leaf on the dial. The result is a premium Swiss-made timepiece that’s one a kind – and a gift CWC members will treasure for life. Now just imagine what we could do for you. For more information, contact bespoke@christopherward.co.uk

CUSTOMER NUMBER CURRENT RESIDENT OR Christopher Ward 20 Taschereau Blvd. Nashua, NH 03062-2320 PRSRT STD U.S. WACHRISTOPHERPAIDPOSTAGERDLONDON,LTD Meet The 300, pg 12

Loupe. Issue 26. Autumn 2022.

Articles inside

43 O-pinion

Great watch wearers

35 A day at the races

29 The power of the ’d0g

39 Small(er) is beautiful

26 Something fishy?

49 Insight