AVANTE RICA RICO | FANNY SERRANO | TREND REPORT | AVANT GARDE |PHILIPPINE FASHION WEEK S/S 2013
VOLUME 1
CONTENTS 02
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03
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EDITOR’S NOTE
STAFF AND CONTRIBUTORS
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HANNA’S TOP 10 AVANT GARDE MAKEUP ESSENTIALS
FIP GRADUATION FASHION SHOW
JAY WEE
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YOUNG BLOOD 43
FEATURES:
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AVANT GARDE
FASHION, HAIR AND MAKEUP TREND REPORT
DESIGNERS
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KERMIT TESORO
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MICHAEL CINCO
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FANNY SERRANO
FEATURES: HAIR AND MAKEUP
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EVENTS 83
RICA RICO
JOCO COMENDADOR
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BYS COSMETICS LAUNCH
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PHILIPPINE FASHION WEEK: FULL COVERAGE
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SPOTTED!
FEATURES:
EDITORIALS
MICA GONZALES
SHOP
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OS ACCESSORIES
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PARADIGM SHIFT
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GOLD DOT & PROUDRACE
HANA PECHON
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Editor’s
Note Greetings! Welcome to the first issue of AVANTE magazine! Working on this issue, my team and I had the opportunity to interview and shoot different kinds of designers, stylists and makeup artists and what can I say --- there really is no question to the amount of talent and creativity that Filipinos have. In this issue, you will find variety of stories and features about Avant-Garde fashion, specifically in the Philippines. We start the issue with the definition and history of Avant Garde fashion. We then move on to feature up and coming designers Rica Rico, Mica Gonzales and Joco Comendador, where they talk about their inspirations, humble beginnings and their own take on Avant-Garde fashion itself. Designer features also include current top designers in our country, Michael Cinco, Fanny Serrano and Kermit Tesoro to name a few. Aside from fashion design, the magazine also covers makeup and hair styling in this issue, featuring Hanna Pechon, a makeup artist who is an associate of Shu Uemura Philippines, as
she talks about her works and gives us tips and must-haves when doing Avant-Garde makeup! For hairstyling, Jay Wee will give us an idea how he conceptualizes and carries out his work. We move on to the features of OS Accessories, Paradigm Shift, Gold Dot and proudrace, four shops that produce and sell Avant-Garde accessories, clothes and shoes. Let us keep you up to date with the full coverage of the Fashion Institute of the Philippines’ 2012 Graduation Fashion show that took place in Resort’s World! We also covered the BYS cosmetics grand launching here in Manila. Also, do not forget about the most awaited coverage of the country’s most talented designers in the Philippine Fashion Week 2013 Spring/Summer collections. The magazine also contains an editorial section where contributors opinionate about current issues in the industry like Kermit Tesoro and the Catholic church and about the limited number of attendees during PFW 2013. For more updates, you could add us up on Facebook and Twitter (@AVANTEMAG). Have fun reading!
Ciarra del Rosario
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Glenne Sarcilla is a 21-year-old freelance illustrator and designer, student supervisor at Toonbro Animation Studio and fashion enthusiast. She is currently studying Multimedia Arts at the De La Salle College of St. Benilde. She dreams of becoming a successful filmmaker and graphic artist someday.
Kristine Bautista is a 28-year-old fashion designer who graduated from the La Salle College International. She is currently a freelance fashion designer and stylist. Her design inspiration comes from H. Naoto, Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Christian Lacroix to name a few.
Mark Jano Necesito or Jaro, is a 25-year-old freelance photographer. Who graduated from AsiaPacific College, with a degree in Multimedia Arts. He also graduated from the Fashion Institute of the Philippines, from where he took fashion photography. www.jaroventures.com
Lou Gatchalian is a 23-year-old professional whose main fields of interest is software programming. With a wide scope of interests including musical influences, graphic animations and fashion, he seeks to visit many places all over the world.
Lester Castor is a software engineer and photography hobbyist. He is a graduate of FEU, taking up Bachelor of Science in Computer Science and is now currently working in Accenture as a Associate Software Engineer.
Alaska Trixie is a freelance Multimedia Artist and writer from the US but is currently based in Manila, Philippines. With a deep passion to create from barely anything, her art reflects the weirdness that has brought her to become and artist.
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contributors Gian Bacuyag is a 26-year-old freelance photographer and toy Collector who graduated from Ateneo de Manila University. He specializes in taking cosplay and fashion portraits of people. Check his portfolio at: http://www.flickr. com/photos/gianbac17/
Bjorn Bedayo is a 20-year-old fashion photographer, creator of fashion site beyond Manila and taking up Multimedia Arts in Saint Benilde. He has already been featured and has contributed to numerous magazines, broadsheets, and online fashion media sites like Meg, Garage, Chalk, Status, Flique and Manila Bulletin.
Adrian Gonzales is a 24-yearold freelance photographer who graduated from the prestigious University of the Philippines - Diliman. Among his clients are Look magazine, Sparkling magazine, Chalk magazine, Megastyle.ph and art + commence. His works have also been featured in vogue.it.
Katrina Yap is a freelance photographer who is currently taking up Multi-media arts at the College of Saint Benilde. Her favorite subjects for her photographs are people. Check her photoblog at: http:// krinklesnaps.tumblr.com/
Royce Aldrich Centeno is a freelance photographer and band vocalist who graduated from the Polytechnic University of the Philippines. He has worked with countless celebrities and famous designers, mainly Fanny Serrano, Modupe Omonze, Al Mayassa Couture , Daze Tan, Tom Ford and many more.
Nadine Cabe is a 20-year-old freelance photographer and makeup artist who studies at De Lasalle University. Check her blog ang portfolio at: http://nadinecabe.tumblr.com/
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AVANT GARDE by Alaska Trixie
Portrait of Elizabeth by George Gower
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vant-Garde Fashion is described as being innovative or inventive, but is also known to be unconventional, experimental fashion. During the 1960’s Avant-Garde art and fashion was a controversial subject, but as with any other trend, it was accepted through time. However unlike other fashion trends, Avant-Garde has never disappeared nor slowly faded away, it has always been present in one form or another.
being transparent, there are just plenty of theories with various interpretations of it.
Avant-Garde Fashion is being wild with color, design, texture, size, and such. It is about pushing beyond boundaries, breaking the status quo, and culture in general. The more “weird” it is, the more it is to be in this category. It could be as striking, bizarre, loud, and/or mysterious and it is not limited to a certain type of fashion product, it’s versatility is what differentiates it from the rest in the world of fashion. It is impossible to state that Avant Garde is a style of art like others. Though the common misconception of it being too vague, historians have doubted whether it really exists.
The concept if Avant-Garde is closely connected with bohemia. Bohemia meant a lifestyle, which artists embraced the second half of the 10th century in big cities, such as Paris, where they differentiated themselves with the bourgeoisie. It’s impossible to talk about Avant-Garde without mentioning bohemia, due to its striking cultural opposition near the end of the 1800s. The lifestyle implies that culture can be regarded as a third cultural dimension. The bohemian class was made possible by the rise of modern culture, which opened doors for different kinds of artists, from illustrators to performers.
The concept mainly focuses on art and culture of France and Italy during the 19th and 20th century, wherein the movement was quickly spreading like wild fire, and honestly speaking, it is a wild fire and will always be a wild fire in the fashion world. However the concept is far from
Since the 1800s, the fashion world of Avant-Garde has basically stayed the same in concept, being indifferent to the usual. Designers allow themselves to create from beyond their imaginations, using the most absurd and unimaginable wearable tex-
AVANT GARDE
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“The study is historical since it examines the occurrences of avant-garde from the days of Baudelaire to the present. It is especially interesting to explore how the traditional concept of Avant-Garde has changed in the circumstances of mass culture and technical reproduction,” says Irmeli Hautmaki,
tiles and making them wearable. Though most pieces are haute couture, it’s nonetheless categorized until Avant-Garde. The largest names in Avant-Garde fashion include John Galliano, Jean Charles de Castelbajac, and the late Alexander McQueen who until today all play a part in creating the most sophisticated, sexy, and extravagant designs the world has yet to see. Jeremy Scott is a perfect example of a designer whose designs capture the essence of what Avant-Garde is. Using striking colors, fabrics, and his imagination, his collections target towards the youth who seek to be out of the box. From his raging Swatch designs to his Adidas clothing line, Scott knows no boundaries when it comes to the designs. With celebrities such as Katy Perry supporting the movement that Scott expresses, the youth has now embraced themselves into modern Avant-Garde notions. The future of Avant-Garde cannot be predicted unlike other categories of fashion, designers have yet to conceptualize what they want to do next, how they’re going to execute, and especially how are they going to top their own current wild collections. Though certain designers know their style, they have yet to imagine the twists and turns that they can do with what they know.
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AVANT GARDE
Fashion Trend Report By: Kristine Bautista
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he Philippine Fashion Week Spring / Summer collections have always been a conglomeration of both senior and up and coming young designers. Among the huge roster of fashion virtuosos, Avant-Garde pieces are not to be ignored, as these would be the basis for some of the year’s hottest looks and collections. Here are some notable trends that graced the runways for 2013’s Spring / Summer collections.
CUTOUTS
Sexy, chic & delicate, cutouts in every geometric pattern imaginable found their way into this season’s various dresses and gowns, emanating a quirky yet luxurious take onto the classic female summer staples. These peek-a-boo dainties exude the svelte goddess in every woman, and at the same time, amps up her style forwards from the rest of the pack.
ROPE PLAY
Rope detailing made their appearances on designers’ creations in the form of vests, overcoats, embellishments and even full dresses. Something funky and fresh; pieces could be integrated into various occasions, be it street wear, classic or formal looks, a very flexible addition to the Avant-Garde hungry’s wardrobe for the season.
DEFINED SHOULDERS
Bold shoulder details are making a striking come back on the runways once more. From caplets, to over exaggerated silhouettes and details, designers showcased how these striking points could redefine even the most classic silhouette.
TREND REPORT
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HAIR AND MAKEUP TREND REPORT By: Kristine Bautista
DARK ROMANCE
This trend has emphasis on bold dark outlines and black lipstick. The overall look is punk influenced and sophisticated at the same time.
ART CHIC
“Art yourself” This trend consists of colorful and big eyelashes. gradients, a mix and match of materials used, and of course, the overall look is very colorful and abstract.
SILENT BEAUTY
This trend is very tone to tone, very subtle, no black lines. Very blurred and no strong contrasts. Very zen, very pure and very simple.
EYE CATCHING
This trend consist of bright shades, mostly neon colors. The eyes are not framed and the lipstick is always bright, playful and in shades of red, pink and orange.
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TREND REPORT
Kermit Tesoro Killer Heels By: Alaska Trixie
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prising designer from University of the Philippines - Diliman, Kermit Tesoro leaves fashion week audience in awe with his detailed, and striking heels that feature carved skulls on each heel all throughout the collection. Along with the current collection, Tesoro uses not so typical material such as mild foam, bent wire, and rubber tubing; he surely knows how to make the most out of the theme that is Avant-Garde. Gaining inspiration from frustrations in the arts, science, religion, and even his childhood fixations; he uses all of these to his extent. Creating pieces that steer clear of mainstream designs, Tesoro uses some conventional but usually unconventional materials to create each haute couture ensemble. Though his concepts are dark and twisty, he does not keep himself strained in that particular color palette; he often uses light palettes that make his collections ironic and controversial in the minds of fellow fashion appreciators.
FEATURES: DESIGNERS
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photocredits: http://www.kermittesoro.com/
FEATURES: DESIGNERS
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photocredits: www.michaelcinco.com
michael cinco THE MAN WHO NEVER LEFT NEVERLAND By: Alaska Trixie
Throughout the decades, designers from Europe and America are mostly the ones who are always getting recognized in the fashion world, but in today’s time, designers from Asia like the Philippines, India and the Middle East have proven that they too can shine. One such designer who has awed the world with his designs, the man who can make a (fashion) dream become a reality, is Dubaibased Filipino designer Michael Cinco. He is one the Philippines’ well known fashion designers; his designs are representations of the wild, creative, beautiful idea he creates. With his out-of-this-world designs, we can surely say that’s a perfect example of what Avant-Garde Fashion is. He goes beyond the norms and breaks his own barriers Michael Cinco was born on the 27th of August, 1971 in Samar. He took up fine arts in the very prominent University of the Philippines and soon then pursued to continue studying his passion at the SLIMS Fashion Arts School in the Philippines as well. As he got more and more experience, he took internships with esteemed Filipino Fashion designers and then moved to Dubai in 1997. After that, Michael went to Paris and London in 2002 to further study about fashion and the arts at the premier Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design.
With his knowledge in fashion, he headed to Dubai to open his first couture house in 2003. With his own high-end couture establishment, Cinco designs evening gowns and elaborate bridal outfits for the rich and famous. There he perfected his craft. His success didn’t happen overnight though, this man had a dream, and he made his dream become a reality through hard work, dedication, and passion. Being named the 2011 Global Fashion Awards Breakthrough Designer of the Year, Cinco has created a brand for himself; with his iconic oversized sunglasses and dominant-black ensembles, and eternal pout. His brand helped him land being featured on the hit TV show America’s Next Top Model hosted by model Tyra Banks. Other awards that he has won are, People choice award at Dubai Fashion Week 2010, Chosen as a top mover in Dubai in Ahlan Hot 100 and he also received a nomination for Best Designer at the Grazia Style Awards in 2011. Cinco does not believe in the word ‘impossible’ but loves the word ‘impalpable’ for it means lightweight, intangible; which he believes he is. We would have to agree with that, he is indeed impalpable.
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FEATURES: DESIGNERS
FANNY SERRANO MAKING IT BIG By: Alaska Trixie
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lways caught sketching clothing designs at a young age, the well-known Fanny Serrano sure had a big surprise in store for him in the future. The Manila native has had the passion for making other beautiful in his blood since he could remember. Serrano got his big break when asked to do makeup for a well-know local celebrity; little did he know that makeup wasn’t where he was going to end.
His collection for Philippine Fashion Week 2012 sure had a nationalistic feel. With the usage of PiĂąa, Serrano managed to design and create pieces that were elegant, romantic, and enchanting. His use of local fabric was able to aware audiences on how versatile local textiles can be used, clearly not only for nationalistic costumes. TF still continues to amaze not only in the fashion world, but also in the beauty world. Being the iconic icon that he is, Serrano is living proof that with hard work, passion, and creativity, Avant-Garde is meanly just another word in an idiom dictionary.
Mr. Fanny Serrano is not only a fashion designer, but is also a makeup artist/guru, endorser, PICA president, entrepreneur, showbiz personality, and an active Christian member of his church.
FEATURES: DESIGNERS
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Photographed by Royce Centeno Model: Ria Bolivar Stylist by Domz Ramos Shoes by Joco Commendador Hair & Makeup by Fanny Tf Serrano Assist by Laurence Leuterio
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FEATURES: DESIGNERS
FASHION EDITORIAL
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FEATURES: DESIGNERS
VAGABONDS AND clowns Photography: Bjorn Manila Styling: Gelo Arucan Associate Stylist: Darren Apolonio
Models: Rommelle Bungay of YEOH Models Pedro Mologni of IM Fashion: Chow Resureccion Melville Sy Banggo Niu Diane Katigbak Dannavie Chanyongco Vina Lorenza Mary Reyes Tina Carillo Mitch Bi単as
FASHION EDITORIAL
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FASHION EDITORIAL
HANNA PECHON
Hanna Maria Mae Pechon is a
28 year old makeup artist and one of the Associates of Shu Uemura Philippines. She is also an instructor at the Make-up Design Academy and Make-up Secrets School. She has been a makeup artist since 2009 and her works range from bridal makeup to Avant-Garde. She has already worked with countless celebrities such as, Isabela Roces, Joey Mead, Danica magpantay, Sitti, General Luna, 1:43, Rachelle Ann Go, Bryan Termulo, LJ Reyes and Robi Domingo to name a few, and her works have been featured in several top newspapers and magazines in the country like MEGA magazine and Manila Bulletin. By: Kristine Bautista Photo credits: be.net/hannapechon
Where did your love for AvantGarde makeup start? Any inspirations? Role models?
For you, What are the most important items in your makeup kit?
My love for avant-garde make-up started in 2006, when I met Randy Capinpin who was also just starting to be a photographer. He influenced me with his Gothic and playful concepts at that time, and with his evolved ones until now. Same with Red Mil who never fails to share his dark, twisted but sophisticated ideas. Another inspiration and role model for me is Mr. Shu Uemura who popularized Avant-garde make-up in the 1960’s which he called Mode makeup. I like how he creates balance and understanding through make-up. Also, nature keeps on inspiring me. It has a wide range of elements that is yet to be discovered by me.
Everything is important!
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What has been the biggest challenge in your career so far? Doing PR. You have to help yourself in selling your skill or talent. It’s one way to get more work and be known in this industry.
How do you conceptualize the makeup that you will be doing on a certain project? Pegs or references are usually given. But others will let you decide and create your own depending on the client’s interest.
FEATURES: HAIR AND MAKEUP
What is best project you have been in so far? Please tell us why. The best project I did was the “Empty Vase” last January, 2010. I got really inspired when I saw the YSL cage heels while browsing the net. Even though it is only for my personal portfolio, I am challenged of outdoing it.
“For me, an achievement is when I am booked for work in a month and have only a day or two for rest.”
Where do you see yourself in 5 years? I am still doing make-up for sure. Getting more clients and more out-of-town / country travels.
Any advice for people who want to start a career doing Avant Garde makeup? One must understand and know first the basics before doing avant-garde make-up. For me, it must be able to portray your idea. You can contact Hanna through the following:
Website: Bridal: hannapechon. portfoliobox.net Fashion: be.net/hannapechon Publicized: hannapechon. blogspot.com
Contact number: +63917 507 9564 Email address: hannapechon@gmail.com
FEATURES: HAIR AND MAKEUP
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Hanna’s Avant Garde
MAKEUP ESSENTIALS
Black and White cream/gel product. You can forget everything and still get away with just these two
Pressed eyeshadows and painting liners from Shu Uemura for real boldness and vividness of color Concealers. Instant eraser not only for blemishes but also for the lips and eyebrows
False eyelashes. I wasn’t a fan of this before but this helps to add drama on the eye area
Foundation. To even out or contrast skin tone
Glue stick. For a slight prosthetic effect
Contour powder. Good for re-shaping the face
Other medium. Like paint, water, oil, etc. for highlighting or not
Different Accesories Beads, feathers, paper, etc. as focal point of your make-up
Lipstick shades. Sometimes you don’t need these anymore
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FEATURES: HAIR AND MAKEUP
Jay Wee is a 26 year old freelance hairstylist who has worked with countless industry talents such as Maja Salvador, Sarah Geronimo, Anne Curtis and many more. by Kristine Bautista
Where did your love for Avant-Garde hairstyling start? Any inspirations? Role models?
hairstyle to do; also I check hair trends (cuts, colors, textures, silhouettes) every season in runway shows.
I think when i took fashion design and the exposure to art, both classic and modern, that came with it. I’ve always adored the works of hairstylists Guido Palau and Orlando Pita.
For you, What are the most important items that you always bring when doing styling? A good set of tail combs, pins, elastics and hairspray can make wonders!
What has been the biggest challenge in your career so far?
What is the best project you have been in so far? Please tell us why. I only get to play and do Avant-Garde hairstyles in fashion and beauty editorials for magazines, I’ve done quite a number this year and there are a couple more that’s coming out before the year ends that I’m excited about. A photoshoot to me is like a graffiti wall where you get freedom to do your own thing artistically so each editorial I do always excites me.
Where do you see yourself in 5 years? I dream to get to contribute for Vogue Italia and Korea, maybe get to travel and work with Guido Palau and Coco Rocha or Karlie Kloss!
I guess the biggest challenge not only in my career but in any artists’ career is to always deliver and bring something new to the table especially in this cut throat industry where you’re only as good as your last work.
Any advice for people who want to start a career doing Avant-Garde hairstyling?
Define Avant-Garde. Fashion forward. A new silhouette or technique is what makes a hairstyle Avante-Garde. Crazy big hair isn’t always high fashion, sometimes it can also be something tight and sleek.
Practice, even if you think you can do anything. Never Give Up, even if it gets frustrating.
How do you conceptualize the hairstyle that you will be doing on a certain project? It’s a collaborative process, I have to consult with make-up and styling as well as lighting and photography to know what
FEATURES: HAIR AND MAKEUP
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You can contact Jay through the following: Website: www.hairbyjaywee.carbonmade.com Twitter/Instagram: @jayweeeee FB: Jay Wee Contact number: 0917-794-5933
Photo credits: hairbyjaywee.carbonmadecom
JAY WEE
photocredits: http://hairbyjaywee.carbonmade.com/
PLAYGROUND OF THE MACHINA Photography by Jaro Necesito Makeup by Jeanine Victoria Hair by Cherie Necesito Accessories by Jaro Necesito Designs by Janelle Ng Jeanine Victoria and Jaro Necessito Models: Leny Aguilar MarQ Porciuncula
ON LEATHER AND FUR
RICA RICO Rica Rico is a 22-year-old fashion designer and stylist. Her designs have already been featured at different magazines and newspapers, from MEGA to Manila Bulletin. She has just graduated from De La Salle college of Saint Benilde with a fashion design degree and is now handling three different businesses at once. She is best known for her Avant-Garde designs with leather and fur. by Glenne Sarcilla Modeled by Nikolette Cua Photography by Ciarra Del Rosario
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YOUNG BLOOD
How did you get into fashion? cloth. I usually go to Divisoria/fabric Who would you like to work with Actually when I was a kid I was stores and feel the material. When I in the future if given a chance? already very fond of it, both my mom and dad are very fashionable. My dad is a lawyer and he picks his suits…and socks (laughs). So while growing up I loved it. But what really made me decide to take this course was during high school prom. I wanted to design my dress and I did, I also looked for the materials for the dress. At that event, I won best dress. And then I realized it was really fun doing it, and then I discovered that there was actually a fashion course so I decided on that, though surprisingly, because for the longest time I wanted to be a lawyer (laughs)
What/Who are your inspirations? My first inspiration is my mom, because I really saw that when you dress up, people really look up to you. As for my style icons I really like the way the Olsen Twins, Rachel Zoe, etc. dress. As for fashion designer, I really look up to Alexander McQueen! His creations are very show; even if we really don’t have the same design aesthetic, if it’s his work it just…wow.
see a really good fabric, that’s when I formulate a design. I like getting the feel of the materials before I start doing a design. As for my design philosophy, as long as it looks good on you and keri mo, fashion freedom talaga! I really like gutsy people. The weirder the better!
Definitely Divine Lee, gusto ko siyang damitan! For a collaboration, Jerome Silaya Ang… more on edgy fashion designers. I really think it’s better if you both are doing different things, because if you’re both designing the same thing, there may be a clash in the ideas, etc.
What do you consider when designing a piece?
What are your future design plans?
Usually it’s usually what the client wants. Usually clients are picky so you know. (Laughs) But if there is no client, I want the piece to be fierce. I want it to have a little oomph! Like taking for example a basic jacket. I want it to have something that sets it apart and my style will be recognized.
Hmmm well I do admit that it is out of the box, but I don’t really focus doing Avant-Garde, siyempre kailangan bumenta di ba! (Laughs) But when I make a design, I want to push it more.
Right now, I’m into leather and fur. Though my aesthetic in general evolves over time. I used to do a lot of chiffons, girly stuff, and then it evolved into leather, etc.
art. Its really self-expression of the designer, that when you look at the piece, it really tells a story.
Describe your design process
The MEGA’s top ten new designers to look out for and this October, I’ll be featured there as “new kids on the block” section.
YOUNG BLOOD
If someone were to follow in your footsteps, what advice would you give them? Go lang ng go. As in go lang talaga ng go. (laughs)
People say your work is AvantGarde, do you agree? Why or You can contact Rica through the following: why not?
What aspects of fashion creation What is Avant-Garde for you? Avant-Garde for me it’s really an do you focus on the most?
Actually mine is pretty weird. (Laughs) Usually people make mood boards or pattern, but mine is fabric/
Well actually, at my last trip to Hong Kong, I found a store that was selling authentic fur and skins. So my future designs will be more on that. Animal prints, fur…
For you, what is your best achievement so far?
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Email: ricarico@facebook.com Website: www.ricaricodesigns.com
Store links: Terzetto http://www.facebook.com/ terzettoPH/ http://www.terzetto.com.ph/ Lashes Lens and Linens http://www.facebook.com/ LALELIMANILA
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YOUNG BLOOD
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JOCO COMENDADOR shoes of the future by Glenne Sarcilla
Have you ever wondered what Lady Gaga and Joco Comendador have in common? They all have killer shoes. The difference? Joco Comendador makes them. Joco Comendador is a 22-year-old export management student at the De La Salle-College of Saint Benilde. Besides his schooling is his blooming career in shoe business. We got the chance to interview Joco about his lifestyle and humble beginnings, and of course, his awesome shoes.
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YOUNG BLOOD
Photography: Bjorn Manila Styling: Darren Apolonio Hair and Makeup: Anton Patdu Model: Julian Cechinel Assisted by: Mike Gella Fashion: Vina Romero
Where did your love to create footwear come from? My love to create footwear started last year. This was the time Kermit Tesoro was famous with his “heel-less shoes” then I started to have this fascination with these shoes but then I found out that it costs about Php40, 000 and I think for a pair of shoes it’s not a joke (laughs). Then I had this school project…to cut it short I found a way to make a pair of shoes that time. When it comes to my inspirations, Lady Gaga, pop culture… actually it’s really pretty random! Where did you start your career? Can you tell us more about your background? It was last year. Actually at first I didn’t treat it as a career because originally I just wanted to make my own pair of shoes. But then one thing led to another, it was featured in Fashion week spring/summer by Enrico Carado then after that it just clicked, the orders just started. As for my background, I’m an export management student; I have no background in fashion. The only thing I know about fashion is magazines, art, Internet, etc. Nahiligan ko lang talaga.
YOUNG BLOOD
Your designs are usually high heeled. Can you explain to us why that is? To be able to stand out, you need to do something different. Sometimes people tell me “Joco why not make something wearable?” then I tell them, “why not buy it at the department store? I mean, why need to tell me I need to make my shoes this way?” I mean you know, walang basagan ng trip. (Laughs) What is Avant Garde design to you? Basically it’s being fashion forward, out of the box and…something…weird. When you started your own line, what was the most difficult part of getting your designs out into the industry? Difficult part? Well…explaining that it’s “wearable.” People sometimes cannot distinguish the word wearable from functional. My shoes cannot function as “everyday shoes” but you can wear it in an event, it i s definitely wearable. I think that’s the only problem I had to market my shoes.
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What do you think are the pros and cons of being a footwear designer? Technology. Here in the Philippines, making shoes is more on the manual labor. That’s why the footwear industry here is very weak. The reason why we are getting defeated by china is because they use machines. How much would one of your shoes typically cost? It varies, but like the Valkyrie shoe, it costs about Php7, 500. In the future if you would collaborate with anyone, who would it be? Why? Definitely Jeremy Scott from Adidas! Right now I have this weird fascination with rubber shoes. Also Christian Louis Vuitton…. I also love her philosophy… “I don’t design shoes that women want, I design shoes that men want on a woman.”
What was the first thing you ever designed? I had this school project that was made up of Water lily leatherette. The design is similarly close to Kermit Tesoro’s shoes. What is your motto? Do you have any advice or tips for any one wanting to follow in your footsteps? Love what you do. I mean really, people actually ask me how I balance school, my shoe business and everything else. Well I can, simple because I love what I’m doing You can contact Joco through the following: +09155831902 (globe) Shop/Portfolio: jococomendador.tumblr.com FACEBOOK: facebook.com/jocoshoes
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MICA GONZALES By Glenne Sarcilla
Mica Gonzales is a 20 year old fashion design student from the College of Saint Benilde. In this interview, she tells us more about herself, her designs and her inspirations.
How did you get into fashion? Can you tell us more about the My love for fashion started when I pieces you designed? was a kid. Ever since then, I always was fascinated with awesomely designed clothes and I get inspired. Especially when the designs are intricate and detailed.
The pieces I designed here are based on a theme, I interpreted it based on that. For the dark leather dress, the theme is “glam rock.” For the nude, light one, the theme was “immortals” so I chose a “fairy,” themed one. Something soft. What (or who) are your For the pink plastic one, the theme inspirations? For designers, MARCHESA! (Georgina was “futuristic.” Chapman) and Alexander McQueen. For everyday inspirations I get What do you consider when inspiration from sweet, pastel-like designing a piece? The function, if it will flatter the and cute things! body, and if it will fit in my style.
Define Avant Garde.
It’s not something you see everyday. How do you first visualize your designs? What’s your first step? Something new. Well I first look at magazines to Something out of the box. get inspired, then gather pegs then research. That’s where i get design inspiration from.
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YOUNG BLOOD
Photography by Gian Bacuyag Hair by Lester Castor Makeup by Ciarra Del Rosario Modeled by Kristell Lim
Photography by Lester Castor Makeup by Ciarra Del Rosario Modeled by Eena Parre単as Assisted by Mark Ruperto
TEENA ARCHES Christina Rose Arches is a 20 fashion design management student at the De Lasalle College of Saint Benilde.
Where did your love for AvantGarde makeup start? Any inspirations? Role models? I used to paint a lot and when I entered college, I got really intimidated on how good my other classmates are. So, I looked for a different media to release my creatives skills with and that I’d be good at it. So I went to makeup. Beauty became my passion. So I mixed both art and beauty together and create unusual looks. Basically just me playing with makeup (like painting).
FWhat are the most important items in your makeup kit? Everything is important in my Kit. I literally cannot state a top 3 because I’ll need a lot for different kinds of looks. I like being prepared so I bring everything. Skin Care, Makeup Remover, Foundation, Highlight and Contouring palette, Eyeshadows/
YOUNG BLOOD
Eyeliner/Eyebrow , lipsticks, Blushes, False eyelashes.
How do you conceptualize the makeup that you will be doing on a certain project? I ask the photographer first or the stylist on what kind of look they want. I base it on their design. If they don’t have a “peg” for it, then I look at the clothes or the theme that they want. If it’s a beauty shot, and it’s my choice to do whatever I want, then I would just play around with makeup.
What is best project you have been in so far? I don’t have a favorite one of my works, but the recent one I’m very pleased with. (The pictures used for this article) Because It was my first time working with the model, Iya, and we’ve become good friends.
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Photography by Katrina Yap Makeup by Teena Arches Model: Iya aka Missplpify Co-photographer & lighting assistants Henri Villegas Ysa Lavadia
What is your greatest achievement so far? I’ve worked with a lot of talented people that I know will be the future of the fashion industry. Every happy client or photographer that I work with is also a good achievement for me.
Where do you see yourself in 5 years? I see myself graduated from a legit special effects school in Hollywood. and going back here in the Philippines to have my own makeup studio, teaching classes and working in the industry.
“AVANT GARDE FOR ME IS ABSTRACT ART.”
SMOKE AND MIRRORS Photography by Adrian Gonzales Styling by Jeff Galang Hair by Jandra Babiera Makeup by Mannix Arboleda Carancho Production Design by Nadine Cabe and Ciarra Del Rosario Lighting Assistant: JR Sala of M Studios Shoot Assistant: Krystle Arellano Model: Sam Ajdani of PMAP
FASHION EDITORIAL
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Silver metallic vest and suit jacket by Ronan Opi単a Off-white suit pants by Gil Macaibay Black leather lace-up boots by Nereku
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FASHION EDITORIAL
White buttondown shirt by Gil Macaibay Silver metallic shorts by Dave Ocampo Black lace-up shoes by Nereku Black bowtie by The Ramp
Off-white vest by Gil Macaibay Navy plaid suit pants by Ronan Opi単a Black leather lace-up boots by Nereku
White buttondown shirt, off-white suit jacket, off-white vest, off-white suit pants, and gray panelled cummerband,
OS accessories
A company founded by three friends Paul Jatayna, Kat Medina, and AJ Omandac whose goal is to create handcrafted accessories inspired by bones. Each collection tells a different story; with each creation the story unfolds, one by one, you will see that each piece completes the puzzle of a tragic story. Debuting their latest collection Vol. 3, OS decides to break out of their comfort zone (the bone) and decides to test the water. Now with a greater variety of sizes, texture, and color, OS takes inspiration from aquatic animals. However this collection does not praise the good of the waters but how it is being overlooked and abused. All 30 pieces are (a bit) absurd, alien athletic, but nonetheless keep them up to their brand, which creates amazing, adventuresome accessories. AVANTE magazine got a chance to interview Paul at the PLATFORM: Round 2 event at the Ronac art center to talk about his creations.
SHOP FEATURES
Story by Glenne Sarcilla Photographed by Ciarra Del Rosario
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AVANTE: So why ‘OS’ Accessories? Paul: Well simply because ‘OS’ is a Latin term for ‘bone.’ It all started when we went to Baguio one time and we saw a bone necklace that was really beautiful. So we wanted to make something that we could reproduce so we used polyurethane material for the pieces.
AVANTE: Do you make each piece? Paul: The first ones yes we did, but now we have manpower to do our pieces. Everything from first to last is really hand made so we really can’t make each one by ourselves.
AVANTE: How did you market the brand why it’s so well known today? Paul: Internationally, it became known because we were first blogged by Trendphile. Eventually a Taiwanese store named “SCREAMING” picked up our accessories. We made them our distributors then eventually a store in Japan contacted us, then Australia, etc.
AVANTE: Can you say that OS is Avante Garde? Paul: Locally yes! It is very Avant Garde. The market here and international are very different. In the markets of Taiwan and Japan, they don’t even consider it Avant Garde at all. It really depends on the market you’re selling to. The market here in the Philippines is mostly very traditional and simple.
AVANTE: So what’s next for OS? Paul: We’re planning to do metal and we’re planning to do a high-end line. (silver-ish, gold-ish) Then we’re planning to make an apparel line. So stay tuned for that!
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SHOP FEATURES
Paradigm
Shift by Glenne Sarcilla
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reated through a mutual dream, Paradigm Shift offers a clothing line that is designed with detail that challenges the audience to wear what they think isn’t socially acceptable. These Avant-Garde pieces have a hipster feel of their own, unlike most Avant-Garde pieces that are couture, PS offers pieces that can be worn on a “regular day.” Each collection is ironic, it’s familiar and unfamiliar, and it’s makes you want to go “Oh my Glob” and “What” at the same time. Paradigm Shift leans towards the exaggeration, dissymmetry, and imbalance of clothing experiences. They are basically Lady Gaga, but wearable. Believing that staying in the box is a norm, PS goes beyond and continues to express and show pride in their weirdness.
Photo credits: http://www.paradigmshiftclothing.com
GoldDot by Alaska Trixie
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ounded in July of 2012, GD has gone far and beyond in the shoe design industry. Offering unique statement footwear, bags and jewelry, GD sure knows how to get girls drool over their products. With the creations being limited, items aren’t to be seen on the streets as other brands. Also, Gold Dot is more than proud to share with their customers that all of their footwear and bags are made in the Philippines! Numerous fashion bloggers such as Jershel Co, Rovia Pearl Ancajas, and Gilyanne Blancaflor are proud owners of Gold Dot footwear who encourage their readers to check their online store and see that fashion does not have to be painful. Their form of Avant-Garde products clearly aims toward the female. With an incurable love for shoes, GD’s prices will make you go gaga without crying because of the could-be-hole in your pocket. photocredits: www.golddot.com.ph | www.proudrace.com
PROUDRACE by Alaska Trixie
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he Manila based duo though from different backgrounds have the same goal, to produce collections that are eclectic, youthful, and modern, but always with a twist. With each design, you can’t help but look twice, sometimes even thrice. With the ‘90s as a constant inspiration, Proudrace is definitely style mindset is definitely stuck in the right generation. The collections are a representation of both designers as a duo and as individuals; they believe that it’s about how one uses different materials, textures, and details in each piece. All pieces are unique and never seem to subscribe to any current trend, Proudrace creates pieces that are minimal and hand made, clearly giving you an item that no one else has. Proudrace is currently standing in their winning circle with an amazing fall winter 2012 - 2013 collection that is forward, raw, and minimalist. This is a collection that id definitely wearable.
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SHOP FEATURES
C E L E S T I A L PARADE Photography by Jaro Necesito Makeup by Jeanine Victoria Modeled by Gael de Leon
Clothes & headdress: Ivond Noriega Shoes: Mikee Andrei
Clothes: May Fornan Headdress: Ivond Noriega Earrings: Model’s Own
Clothes: Janel Ng Headdress: Ivond Noriega Shoes: Mikee Andrei Necklace: Model’s Own
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FIP GRADUATION
FASHION SHOW By: Kristine Bautista
There were 33 designers that featured their collection: Adam Balasa, Adrian Sahagun, Aia Saturnino, Almira Cris, Aya Ayalin, Drei Soriano, Clarisse Raborar, Connie Ancheta, Bryan Peralta, Emir Yamomoto, Eva Revilloza, Gareth Ampil, Gem Velasco, Genebee Gervacio, Geno Velasco, Glacy Ricablanca, Jackie Clemente, James Imperial, Jiezl Sunga, Kim Edison, Jon Maderazo, Joy Chicano, Joyce De Guzman, Jinggay Serag, Kristia De Leon, Lesley Nubla, Lloyd Luxie Gumba, Love Sioco, Marian Zara, Russel Cuevas, Stephanie Cudal, Tessa Leann, and Yeye Panteleon. The first place winners were Emir Yamamoto and Joy Chicano who also received the FADAL award. Second place goes to Adrian Sahagun, and the third Place winner is Brian Peralta, who also won Best in Garment Construction. Glacy Ricablanca won the best in Fashion Illustration Award and Jinggay Serag won the best in Techniques Award.
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EVENTS
BYS COSMETICS LAUNCHING By: Glenne Sarcilla
EVENTS
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hey say that make-up is a woman’s best friend. Knowing what to put on ones’ self can make a woman a step ahead from the rest. Knowing what brand to use is another thing. BYS, a makeup brand based in Australia, launched last October 3 at the Makati Shangri La Hotel with guests from SM Watsons, fashionistas, bloggers, press, stylists, trendsetters and fashion enthusiasts. If you’re looking for a brand that is innovative, has good quality and good value for your money, then BYS cosmetics is the brand you are
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looking for. It is known to have a wide selection of makeup, with more than a thousand different products, BYS is one of the largest and most on-trend cosmetics brand worldwide. The theme for the launching party is “Re-defining beauty.” Before the runway show started, Michael Burgeois, a design consultant for different international brands such as Topshop and Dorothy Perkins, exclusively flew in from Paris to present and discuss the upcoming makeup trends for 2013. The runway
show consisted of twenty models with makeup done by Elaine de Silva and Carell Garcia with the use of BYS Cosmetics, to show their wide range of products, unique colors and versatility when it comes to makeup. There were a total of 4 makeup themes showcased: Well-Being: Simple and Natural, Antic Robots and Rebels: DarkThemed, Luminous Years: Gold and Sophisticated and Extreme: Neon Action!
BYS Cosmetics is designed and developed in Melbourne. BYS is available in different countries such as France, UK, Japan and now, the Philippines! It has adhered to the most rigid European and Japanese quality standards and with over 1000 products available, it continues to grow and offer more beauty products for fashionistas in need of amplifying their beauty even more! Product lines to watch out for: BYS Minerals Naturale: 100% made up of minerals, perfect for girls who
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have sensitive and oily skin. This has no chemical, dye, preservative, nor talc! BYS upcoming nail polish line: With over 300 unique and plain hues, BYS has it all! They have Cracked, Quake, UV, Mood, Scented and even Glow in The Dark Polish! BYS upcoming false eyelashes line: The line will have over 50 designs! Perfectly reusable, latex-free and easy to wear! BYS is set to open 13 outlets in Metro Manila in key locations by the end of September 2013.
EVENTS
A Week of Filipino Fashion FULL COVERAGE OF THE PHILIPPINE FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2013
by: Lou Gatchalian | Photographed by Nadine Cabe
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he Christmas season is fast approaching and the year is quickly reaching its last few weeks. However, Filipino designers, brands, and artists are gearing up for the biggest and longest-running showcase of Philippine fashion. Held last 23rd to 29th of October this year, the Philippine Fashion Week Spring Summer 2013 exhibited creations that gave color to the runways of SMX Convention Center, SM Mall of Asia, and the SM Mall of Asia Arena. The event was produced by Joey A. Espino, Jr. and Audie J.P. Espino of Runway Productions, in cooperation with FilFashion Innovators Incorporated, Cal Carrie’s International Models Philippines, and Master School for Models.
Day 1: Supermodels, Makeups, Supermodel Philippines 2012. L’Oreal Paris presented a back-toand OPM Classics Hopeful applicants numbering at more than a hundred became part of the recently launched search for the newest Philippine’s supermodels. Out of all the applicants, 17 were chosen for the Supermodel Philippines 2012 Finals Night: 10 female and 7 male finalists. Catherine Haduca and Felix Tiomico won the Photogenic Award at the Finals Night, while the Final Six were announced: Krizzaleen Valencia, Randy Cailes, Zandra Sta. Maria, Jeremiah Manalang, Gerard Go, and May Ann Naguit. Out of the six, Manalang and Sta. Maria were named the EsAc runway winners, while Naguit and Go were declared as the winner of
back collection of Albert Andrada and Ezra Santos. Together with the makeup creations by L’Oreal Paris Philippines’ Cristine Duque, Andrada and Santos dazzled everyone with their seascape anthology filled with seafoam tones, crystalline embellishments, and cascading flounces. With Mint celebrating their tenth year as a Filipino retail brand, their debut on the Philippine Fashion Week was nothing short of booming. Together with their new endorsers Gerald Anderson, Sam Pinto, and Xian Lim, Mint displayed their OPM shirts on the runway to match the OPM classics.
EVENTS him, Day 2: Gadgets, Colors, and the next set of designers for their gerine and jewel tones. After collections. Gerry Katigbak opened Raoul Ramirez followed with a Romance The latest gadgets from SONY made their appearance on the runway, opening the show. The VAIO Duo 11 Ultrabook™ and the VAIO Tap 20 tablet PC gave the crowd a preview of the future of mobile gadgets. Dax Bayani then flooded the runway with his neon swimwear collection, followed by Lizanne Cua and her wearable jersey ensemble. Melchor Guinto came next with sleek, tailored series succeeded by the tribal-esque army collection of Russell Villafuerte. Sassa Jimenez and her playful print-on-print concluded the runway show. A showcase of merging concepts, styles, and philosophies seem to be the target of SM Men’s Fashion as top designers collaborated to show diversity on their menswear retail. Hideo Muraoka’s collection of leather and spikes releases an aura befitting a rock star or a KPop idol. A dance presentation helped transition from Muraoka’s dark collection to Louis Claparols’ military-inspired color wheel explosion for Markus. Ivarluski Aseron’s resort wear collection for Coco Republic contrasted Claparols’ collection due to its neutral color palette. Following is Rajo Laurel’s color blockings and spectacles for his set for Wharton. Rhett Eala played with beads and sleek tailoring for his set for Main Street, followed by Frederick Peralta’s set of playful combinations for Michel Andre. Randy Ortiz’s set for Uberto Duranti was the finale, featuring the sophistication of high collars and figure-hugging suits.
the show, transitioning from light pieces of tunics to softer greys before moving to black swimwear. Jun Jun Cambe followed up with his unique aesthetics, polka dots, and voluminous ball gown pieces. Michelle Lim’s collection was feminine: lace attires, dresses, and lingerie-inspired outfits. EsAc closed the show, with Raoul Ramirez’ gray womenswear collection, Lyle Ibañez’ abstract patterns on light dresses, and AudieAE’s voluminous skirts in jewel.
resort-like collection: sorbets, capes, bikinis, and prints. Roland Lirio presented a collection of athletic wear, focusing on symmetrical angles and varying lengths. Closing the show was Vania Romoff with “sprezzatura” (“a certain nonchalance” and “practiced naturalness”) presented into classic sophisticated looks focusing on structure and silhouette.
Day 4: Sophistication, Spectrums, and The Night
Day 3: Bags and Shoes, Musical Cary Santiago returns to the runFashion, and Eyewear ways of Philippine Fashion Week SM Shoes and Bags definitely offered variety in their pieces to suit every occasion. The models of Salvatore Man donned sleek suits and leather loafers. Milanos Shoes showed their easy-to-wear boat shoes and rucksacks. Parisian impressed with their dresses, laces, corsets, and accessories. However, the kids of Tough Kids Shoes and Sugar Shoes stole the show for their pairs that represent every playful occasion for little boys and girls. Lee Cooper’s debut was a fusion of music and fashion. A rollerblade exhibition by the Philippine All Stars opened the show, after which models and celebrities such as Victor Basa, Divine Lee, and Patrick Garcia invaded the runway while musicians Geneva Cruz, Rachel Alejandro, Kris Lawrence, and Bamboo sing popular Brit songs.
Ideal Vision showcased their top international eyewear brands, Bebe, Calvin Klein, Givenchy, Police, and Michael Kors to name Spring and summer is lacking a few. After Ideal Vision’s interwithout its healthy dose of ro- national collection, Eric delos mance. This was the inspiration of Santos displayed a collection of feminine looks filled with tan-
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to showcase his sophisticated and classy collection: from structured fabrics to soft dresses with embroideries. After travelling from Beirut, to Dubai, and to Paris, and studying his unique class of couture, Cary Santiago has proven that he is one of the country’s top fashion designers. A huge collection by designers Anthony Ramirez, Aztec Barba, Harley Ruedas, Chris Diaz, John Paras, Joyce Pilarsky, Martin Bautista, Noel Crisostomo, Julius Tarog, Popoy Barba, Ronaldo Arnalo Tina Daniac, Roel Rosal, Simon Ariel Vasquez, and Veejay Floresca showed a wide array of choices. From John Paras and Julis Tarog’s white pieces to Popoy Barba and Roel Rosal’s technicolor ensembles, the Luxe Wear Spring Summer 2013 was like a light’s spectrum. Different styles, different fashion languages, one message: the coming season will be fun and exciting. Lee Jeans presented their latest collection Night Skins along the finalists for Lee Style Army, with host Marc Nelson and guest model Andi Eigenmann. Vince EVENTS
Crisostomo of University of Santo Tomas bagged the Best Stylist award, Matthew Lee of Ateneo de Manila University for Best Photographer, Vaughn Pinpin of University of the Philippines for Best Multimedia Designer, Jem Borces of University of San Carlos – Cebu for Best Designer, Andrew of de la Salle College of St. Benilde for Best Male Model, and Francesca of Ateneo de Manila University for Best Female Model. Team Club Rats took home the grand prize and US$2,500.
Day 5: Cuteness, Glamour, Freedom, and Intricacy While the SM Kids’ Fashion increased the cuteness level of the event, they also showcased their pieces for infants, toddlers, tweens, and teenagers. Infants and toddlers, cradled by their mothers, wore button-downs with plaids for boys and fluffy tutus for girls. Young boys wore colorful preppy outfits, while young girls wore ruffled skirts. Teen boys showed their coats and jackets, and closed with dresses for teen girls. Anne Curtis was a guest performer for Bench as they showed their collection on the runway. She walked the runway wearing a ruffled dress with a studded neckline for Sweet Heart. Male models grabbed the crowd’s attention with their sleek and stylish suits. Anne once again took the runway with a glamorous winged dress for her Glamorous scent. Closing the show was Anne donning a revealing corset dress for her fragrance Fierce. Keeping a laidback style while focusing on incorporating ideas on the Spring Summer 2013 trends is not an easy thing to do, yet HUMAN pulled it off. Stripes were
the motif of their first collection, consisting of colored denim jeans, sneakers, and suede and leather boots. Guest model Kylie Jenner pumped the crowd with a gold blazer, blue top, and jeans. Rob Kardashian followed with a simple monochromatic top with jeans. Joey Samson’s collection came next, followed by Human’s second collection consisting of metallic and leather accessories for the street flavor. Concluding the show was Human’s gray scale boyish suited-up set. Meticulous construction and intricate designs were the highlights of the last show of the day. Arnold Galang’s army of models suited up with his collection Rebellion of a Non-Conformist which was leather pieces and detailed accentuations. Next up was Jerome Salaya Ang’s collection Persephone’s Kiss. Filled with sexy and revealing pieces, his models brave the runway. Phillip Tampus followed with artful pieces and laces combined with acrylic cutouts. His collection was feminine, contrasting his sleek menswear pieces. Closing the show was Renee Salud with her intricately detailed pieces. Taal has been known for their beloved embroidery crafts, and with messages from Batangas leaders Mark Leviste and Vilma Santos-Recto, Burdang Taal: Habing Pilipino made its way in the runway. Barong tagalog was the opening of the show by Bergamo, while Dong Omaga-Diaz and Gerry Katigbak showed their updates. JC Buendia and Randy Ortiz showcased their sleek and chic pieces. Next was Vic Barba’s street style with embroideries and Edgar Madamba’s playful skirts. Edgar San Diego followed with luxurious pieces while Fanny Serrano went
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for the stunning volumes. Johnny Abad’s set played with curled fringes while Jontie Martinez’ was greys with various cuts. Lito Perez emphasized on prints and bright green and Ole Morabe’s set were fluorescent pink sleek pieces. Oskar Peralta’s collection was bias-cut plaids and Richard Papa’s was a fusion of scarlet chiffon with embroideries. Roland Lirio closed the show with his contemporary athletic incarnations for Burdang Taal.
Day 6: Mixture, Menswear, and Magnum Aris Pico opened the show with dresses shaped like hourglasses designed with flowers. Boyet Dysangco and Cherry Samuya Veric followed with their nudes and faint sheen. Delby Bragais’ set was primarily of soft candy colors. Emily Sy came next with her sweetly-hued collection, while Fanny Serrano entered with voluminous pieces. Frederick Policarpio’s sorbet colors, Gil Macaibay’s delicate draping, and June Pugat’s shadow-dyed fabrics complimented each other. Marc Rancy and Nolie Viñeza hosted vermillion and oversized flowers with laces. Popo Go soothed with embellished grays while Randall Solomon closed with texture and avant garde headdresses. Executive Producer Joey A. Espino, Jr. gave a speech proving that the collections for menswear for the Spring Summer 2013 are to be looked forward to. Anthony Nocom’s contemporary Barong Tagalog-inspired pieces opened the show, with Bang Pineda following with neon and fluorescents on black. Dodjoe Batu paired earth tones with prints while Drei Soriano’s monochromatic set boasted of cover-ups. Edgar Buyan’s tough and tailored set contrasted EVENTS
Martins (awarded the Emilio Pucci and Diesel Awards), Lesley presented his Spring Summer 2013 in an exclusive dinner and charity gala. With the harmonies of the vocal group Blake and the excellent menu by cibo di M, Lesley’s anthology was a masterpiece to behold.
with Herbert Custodio’s Barbie-inspired pieces. Jeffrey Rogador showed calm and clean collection and Jinggo Inoncillo’s set was inspired by flowers. M Barretto went for the chic and casual look, while Odelon Simpao created a psychedelic set. Ulysses King’s set was energetic and sporty, complimenting Zxander Tan’s steampunk motif. The finale was a parade by the designers on the runway with the male models.
vinyl and plastics. Barong Tagalog references were evident in Jot Losa’s collection, and Mark Tamayo added high-shine metal embellishments to classic silhouettes. Oz Go’s collection was consisted of red-blue-white ribbing, seal details, and stamp prints. Santi Obcena went for raw, gritty tailored pieces, while Xernan Orticio showed his signature precision black and white paneling and sexy cutouts. Closing the show was John Guarnes with earth-tone Creativity was flowing through- sensual collection featuring Magout the Ready-to-Wear runway num’s Choco Capuccino. as Magnum presented the country’s talented designers. Dave Penshoppe gives off a summery Ocampo opened the show with a mood with their collections which resort collection. Emi-Alexander included bright neon, tropical Englis went for all-nude pillar prints, and bold colors. However, dresses, and Jian Lasala’s set was they keep their pieces within the a youthful sophisticated touch. season, adding sparkly knitwear, Meanwhile, John Herrera present- sequins, and sheer stockings. Fured a sleek and strong collection ther into their collection, their caas Paul Herrera unveiled a black, sual anthology accentuated colplayful set of dresses. ors that epitomized Summer and Spring, effectively complimenting For Visions and Trends, Bo Par- the neutrals paired with them. con presented grayscale prints while Enrico Carado showed his Day 7: Pursuing Perfection hourglass dresses with spring- Philippine Fashion Week closed time prints. Jaki Peñalosa upgrad- with Cignal presenting Colours ed her indigenous fiber, and Jan Gala: Lesley Mobo. London-based Garcia went for avant garde with and an alumnus of Central St. EVENTS
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Every piece was finely crafted: intricate, embellished dresses, classic blacks, and the occasional color pop. Design after design, his pieces greatly compliments each other, thus showing a full collection. The gala, hosted by Tessa Prieto Valdez was produced in partnership with Kaye Tinga for the benefit of Lightomorrow project. The night’s guests spanned various sectors of society, from Manny V. Pangilinan, to Tim Yap and Vicky Belo, and Sharon Cuneta. The impressive craftsmanship of Lesley Mobo’s collection was a grand, sophisticated finale for the Philippine fashion Week Spring Summer 2013.
SPOTTED! At the Philippine Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2013
Rai Hontanar
Pia Valenciano Rxandy Capinpin
Yen Escriba Salamoding
Moi Diego
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SPOTTED!
WHAT’S WRONG WITH THAT? by Lou Gatchalian
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rotests are a common sight in the Philippines. It is the people’s way of voicing out their opinions. Different kinds of protests can be utilized in order to get one’s, or more commonly a group’s, message across. A recent example of this is the online protests of social network users against the Cybercrime Law. Some groups created online petitions to remove the bill entirely; others showed their protest by changing their Facebook display photos to black. And some, the more computer savvy, supported Anonymous’ operations. Of course, there are certain boundaries that are supposed to be set. But sometimes, protesters take their expression a step too far. Just like what happened to Kermit Tesoro. Who is Kermit Tesoro anyways? Kermit is an internationally renowned avant-garde Filipino fashion designer. And by being an avant-garde designer, his styles are very unique and unusual than most. Also, a few months back, he’s allegedly at the receiving end of threats and bullying from a religious group that protests against Lady Gaga. Why Kermit then? Because he, together with artist Leeroy New, was the designer of Lady Gaga’s costume in the music video of “Marry the Night”. Lady Gaga held two concerts here in the Philippines last 21st and 22nd of May this year. The concert pushed through despite protests from religious groups against it.
EDITORIAL
Groups are accusing Lady Gaga is an “anti-Christ” due to her controversial songs. And, for some reason, Kermit has taken a backlash of those attacks. So, here’s the question: why threaten and bully Kermit, even way after the concert’s over? For designers, having a famous person acknowledge their designs and even wear their creation is a huge step. And whom can the average person think of when it comes to unique fashion aside from Lady Gaga? Surely, it’s an accomplishment for a unique design to be worn by a unique icon. Was it because he worked with Lady Gaga? There were a lot of people who made the concert possible. Were they threatened as well? Should they pick on each and every one of those who attended the concert and made it a success? That’s impossible. Kermit has left some statements in his twitter page regarding the issue. These statements were unnamed, but it can be seen that it was for a religious group that has been allegedly bullying him. He even said, “Mideo Cruz and I are now friends”. Mideo Cruz, a Filipino artist, earned the ire of the Catholic Church due to his creations that shows defaced religious images. A friend of Kermit, socialite and businesswoman Divine Lee, has been on his side and defended him. She stated that having skulls as part of Kermit’s designs doesn’t make him satanic. Kermit was fascinated
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in human anatomy, she said. The most ironic of her statements might be the one revealing that Kermit, together with his family, was very religious. Hopefully, this whole issue is over (it has been a few months after the said threatening, after all). Unfortunately, there are still some irrational people who are willing to step over the line in order to get what they want. Some are just extreme that no explanations can change their perceived truth and beliefs. It’s not wrong to be open-minded. It’s not a sign of one’s weakness of mind, but rather the proof of strength in one’s own beliefs despite differing opinions and facts. One can simply just scratch his head in confusion and ask why being irrational is getting rampant in this country. But that’s another story. Kermit did what he had to do. And, as a designer, he must feel very proud of his works. After all, what’s wrong with that?
PHILIPPINE FASHION WEEK AND THE PUBLIC by Glenne Sarcilla
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n the Philippine fashion industry, fashion designers or brands display their collections by means of runway shows to advertise the latest trends in fashion. Usually, they go all-out in an event called Fashion Week. This event allows fashion designers to showcase their “handicrafts” for them to let everyone know what’s “hot” and what’s “not” for the season. owever, not exactly everyone is allowed to go to the Philippine Fashion Week. For most people it is through the Philippine Fashion Week’s main website. You will need to put your e-mail address there to participate in their raffle draw. If you get picked, you will be given your pass to the Fashion Week, plain and simple. A different way to be a part of the said event is by being “guest-listed” by the designers themselves but of course, not all people are friends with them so this limits the viewers of the Fashion Week. t is safe to say that not everyone agrees with the limits the fashion industry of the Philippines imposes on their viewers during Fashion Week, but in my opinion, it is totally logical for them to minimize their viewers. The main purpose of the Fashion Week itself is only to showcase the latest trends and not to garner public opinion. Limiting their viewers also protects their reputation as being exclusive. After all, they have the right to be exclusive, since in the fashion industry extravagant clothes made by top class fashion designers pay off by being limited and exclusive.
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They limit their viewers because they don’t want everyone to partake in the Philippine Fashion Week since they don’t want to be distinguished as the fashion show for the common man. That’s the realm of fashion industry. These high fashion people want to be the stuff of legend and in my opinion that makes sense since they are the ones who set trends for us people to follow. Also, let’s say for example, considering the fact that a lot of us Filipinos are fashionistas by heart, if they won’t limit their viewers; can you imagine runway shows being similar to stage concerts due to the overwhelming number of people who want to take part of it? That would be chaotic on so many levels. n addition, it is not a secret that there are people who do not agree on promoting fashion shows. For example, some religious people say that this kind of presentation could possibly lead to promiscuity as most fashion shows bring up lingerie for women or men, with that said, the models who are used to showcase them on the runway are half-naked. Even some doctors and nutritionists do not simply agree on how models prepare themselves in order to conform to the standards of fashion shows. According to them, those people who are modeling for a specific brand in those aforementioned fashion events become role models for the young ones – but then again, models aren’t like normal people.
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here were cases that some people died due to crash dieting resulting in starvation and death. In addition, some psychological studies say that teenage girls tend to lose their self-esteem, as they cannot reach their ideal figure, as they try to compare themselves with those models that they have seen in the catwalk. With that in mind, it is a possibility that the affected populace will conduct protests DURING the fashion show and that is not a good thing. ot everyone cares about fashion too so it is a good thing that the organizers have only decided to conduct raffle draws for earning passes intended for the Fashion Week. Meaning to say, the only ones who will participate in those raffle draws are those who are really interested in fashion, thus avoiding unnecessary crowd. ost of us might have not even heard of Philippine Fashion Week. That’s because it’s only talked about in the society circles of the fashion elites as compared to ordinary fashion shows held inside a mall or open streets. For an ordinary citizen who just usually follows trends like me, I’d rather not spend my time to be physically there where it happens. It would be more practical for me to just wait for those clothes to land on my favorite retail stores. After all, I could just read lifestyle magazines or maybe watch a channel that airs fashion shows to check the latest trends but I could only speak for myself.
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ONLY ONCE? by Jaro Necessito
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ashion. In today’s culture, fashion has played a major role in terms of displaying one’s status in our modern society. From sporting a winter jacket to wearing a glamorous night gown. Be it conventional, seasonal or just as simple as wearing a plain shirt paired with denim shorts. Fashion also means style. When it comes to fashion, being in style is a must. But not all people are aware or are knowledgeable about something that is also related to both fashion and style, and that is what we call a “trend.” eing creative and being competitive are only two of the many things that an aspiring fashion designer should be to express themselves or to set a trend, not to mention that being in that line of business is a tedious task itself. However, the good thing about fashion is that it is as vast as a human’s capability to imagine. It could be eccentric or conservative, simple or complex, exaggerated or mundane. Fashion is also a form of art as some fashion designers would say when asked about it. xcessive jewelry, fascinators, boots, high heels or undergarments, all of them are utilized by fashion designers who intend to make a mark in the Philippine fashion industry. We could say that each has an inspiration whenever they do the craft, and for them to be able to
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showcase their work, the Philippine fashion industry usually sets up an event called the “Fashion Week.” The works of the crème de la crème of fashion designers will be judged by the masses, scrutinized by manufacturers and critiqued by designers to be reproduced or adapted while being showcased on the runway during the event. or some reasons, the said “Fashion Week” has its limits. One example is that men’s style in terms of fashion has limited exposure compared to that of the women’s. ere are some of my opinions regarding on why there has only been one Men’s Fashion Week here in the Philippines: oom for Creativity and Innovation – Compared to women’s fashion, there is most likely a given limit on how men’s wear should be stylized. For example, in our modern culture, you cannot simply let a man wear a coat or a suit then pair it with a skirt, whereas, if you use the same pair and let a woman wear those, it would still look good and fashionable, opposed to the Bohemian era where men could wear flashy outfits that were considered ahead of the majority back then. Even if one is stoic like an avant-garde, being in the fashion industry requires one to somehow conform in the status quo. A fashion designer cannot simply bend the fundamentals of fashion. Simply put, you cannot just let a
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man wear high-heels like women do. There is also a thin line drawn between being “fashionable” and being a “fashion disaster” as how some fashion critics put it. ack of Demand of the Fashion In terms of conforming to the consumers’ standards, fashion designers tends to emphasize women’s fashion. The target market of the fashion itself is the consumers and most of those consumers are women. Here in our country, the majority of men are disinterested with extravagant clothing because of their contentment with the usual outfits that they could possibly find in the nearest boutique. Men often practice a practical lifestyle. In addition, some companies use women as a marketing strategy to promote their interests and because of that, they are expected to dressup since they are the ones who are up front. On the contrary, men’s fashion does not require superficial stylistic innovation that is often used in designing women’s outfits. Generally speaking, men’s careers do not require them to look “stunning” as opposed to women’s. With that said, the demands are lowered and that would also result in low production and promotion. imited Seasons – It is a given fact that we only have two seasons here in our country; wet and dry. In accordance to those two seasons were our fashion trends are based.
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The fewer the seasons a country has the less style the fashion industry of that specific country can create. Fashion trends are made to be suitable according to the seasons. Some countries have 4 seasons: winter, spring, summer, and fall – which means they have access to a wider variety of approaches to a design, in contrast to the limited pairing and clothing material options of Philippines. he Nature of Man – Men’s “Fashion Week” targets primarily homosexual and metrosexual men, who seek to improve their appearance by acquiring the latest in designer fashion. The common man on the street simply does not watch fashion shows due to the stereotypes associated with them. A man who is as straight as an arrow simply goes to the mall and picks up what he thinks would look good on him, since men care far less about
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