WINE

Forty Hall

Vineyard

By Katie Goodchild

Here is an English vineyard that holds people and community, well-being and mental health in its heart. Forty Hall Vineyard was first established as a social enterprise in 2009. It is run by volunteers from Enfield who are crucial to its survival - or, is it the vineyard that is crucial to volunteers suffering with mental health disorders?

“The Borough of Enfield has the 12th highest rate of depression in London and is home to more than 32,000 adults living with a mental health disorder; the NHS spends over £98 million a year treating depression and anxiety in Enfield.”

Some 160 volunteers at FHV have included individuals who suffer with anxiety and depression, isolation, learning difficulties and abuse at home. However, these same volunteers have later reported feeling more positive and more socially connected, with improved mental health and well-being.

In 2009, mental health was not widely discussed or documented, so it was as volunteers began to speak about their improved well-being that FHV decided to develop an ecotherapy project. A project that allows individuals to work in all areas of the business, from maintaining the vines to selling wine and representing the enterprise. What’s more, volunteers have access to accredited courses, enabling them to develop a variety of skills and to make their first critical steps back into the world of work, learning and social engagement. It’s easy to get absorbed into the brilliant work FHV is doing to improve well-being and mental health in the community. But let’s not forget that

Forty Hall - The Vineyard Founder, Sarah Vaughan Roberts, was always interested in the social and therapeutic benefits of being outdoors and after studying Viticulture at Plumpton College (England’s only college dedicated to winemaking), Sarah came up with the idea of establishing a community vineyard. One acre of land became available at Forty Hall Farm and it was decided that a vineyard here would be a good fit for both the community and the farm.

Today Bacchus, Ortega, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier are grown over 10 acres. Certified organic by the Soil Association, FHV were told they were “crazy” for wanting to work organically. The risk and labour involved in organic farming is so huge that a minuscule 2% of English vineyards are currently certified organic. Since the beginning, FHV has worked with Will Davenport, the only UK winemaker to receive awards and commendations every year since 2009 for his organic wines. “Will was one of the few winemakers who understood the value of organic growing at the time - not just for the environment, but also for the quality of the wine.”

Following organic practices, FHV works towards protecting their natural habitat. Rainwater is the only source of water used for irrigation. No herbicides or pesticides are used in the vineyard, and when organic nutrients need spraying on vines, or the grass needs mowing, a tractor is used – the only consumption of fuel. In the past, horses have been used in place of a tractor and each winter sheep from Forty Hall Farm are left to graze in the vineyard. They even distribute their own natural fertiliser. Topped off with a healthy dose of nutrient rich manure from the farm’s other animals that is mixed into the vineyard soil.

But as FHV knows, there is always room for improvement. Currently, a group of volunteers are leading a greening project to help boost biodiversity in the vineyard. Seeds have been sown for a wildflower meadow to attract more bees and butterflies in the vineyard. A magnificent 30 trees have been planted, all donated by the Woodland Trust, and will help to tackle climate change as they lock up carbon. Not forgetting the creation of bug hotels.

Expertise in the vineyard is led by winemaker Will Davenport and founder Sarah. It is testament to their training and support that volunteers not only improve their wellbeing but flourish at the tasks given to them. Volunteer Clare is one such example; Clare began volunteering at FHV after leaving her job as a corporate lawyer and now holds various roles both at FHV and Bradfield Vineyard in Essex, where she is Vineyard Manager.

The Wines The five grape varieties grown in the vineyard are used in the production of two still white wines; Bacchus and Ortega (both the names of grape varieties and their respective wines), and a sparkling Brut.

Bacchus Once the grapes were picked (September

2018, should you wish to know) they were driven to Davenport’s Vineyard in Rotherfield, East Sussex, home to Will’s own vineyard and winery. Bacchus 2018 has notes of gooseberry, green apple and lemon zest. Refreshing acidity was balanced by a roundness on the palate, which added depth and complexity. A fantastic option when choosing a wine to pair with a goat’s cheese salad and shellfish.

Ortega Ortega is a variety that is increasing in popularity in UK plantings and it is showing positive signs of ageability, something that’s rather unknown in the context of English still wines. A light white wine with relatively low acidity and an earthy quality, all of which make it an ideal partner to vegetable-based dishes and salty cheeses.

Brut Believed to be London’s first sparkling wine, FHV Brut is made by the traditional Méthode Champenoise, or Champagne method. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes were picked in September 2017 and were subject to extended lees ageing. The result is a superb example of the sparkling wines England produces. Crisp green apple, elderflower, biscuit and marzipan notes flow from the nose to the palate. Delicate bubbles balance crisp acidity, leaving you wanting glass after glass.

All three wines are labelled ‘Single Estate’, referring to the fact that the wines are produced exclusively from grapes grown on site. The wines are organic, natural and unfiltered, and vegan friendly. Looking Ahead So what does the future hold for London’s only vineyard? As and when, the vineyard will open to the public (it might even be so by the time you’re reading this) and you’ll be free to wander the vines. Tours and tastings will hopefully increase - at present guided tours are available at the FHF monthly Farmer’s Market. But it is clear that well-being is at the heart of this venture: “We want more people to benefit from the sanctuary of the environment - such a rare find in London with our busy lives”.

Supporting businesses such as Forty Hall Vineyard is paramount to their survival - and also to the survival of those struggling with mental health in the Borough of Enfield. Lockdown has had a big financial impact on the enterprise, which saw a high number of sales halt overnight as restaurant and bars closed their doors.

But there are many ways you and I can help support this enterprise vineyard, the most obvious being to buy their wine. You can also donate to the vineyard via the FHV website (www.fortyhallvineyard. com) or you can offer your services and skills. As September comes to an end harvest begins in the vineyard. Pick grapes and discover this wellbeing gem for yourself. And lastly, as we return to work and plan team building days, head from the office and into the vines for a rewarding day out.

Forty Hall Vineyard, a positive addition to your wine rack - and your life.