ST R W BERRYpower 草莓之力
issue 1: Chinese Lolita community in UK
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ST R W BERRYpower 3
草莓之力
issue 1: Chinese Lolita community in UK
前言
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Lolita 时尚是什么? 这种从 1990 年代开始在日本开始流行起来的时尚风格及 亚文化,可以形容为“成人的少女服装”。Lolita 时尚 吸收了洛可可时代的服装风格,并对其加以简化创新。
这是一种充满了蕾丝,花边,缎带,蝴蝶结和印花的时尚。 衣着华丽的少女,标志性的蓬起的裙摆,在街头十分显眼, 而有著特别的存在感。少女们在穿着 Lolita 时,感到更 加自信,感到被赋权,像一层甜蜜的盔甲。 草莓是甜系 lolita 中,最常见,最受欢迎的柄图元素。 这种水果被印在充满蕾丝和花边的裙子上时,对少女们 充满了奇妙的吸引力。这本杂志因而取名为“草莓力量”, 来庆祝我们对 Lolita 的喜爱,分享我们和 Lolita 的故事, 以及它是如何将我们连接在一起的。 在第一期中,我们将看到六位来自中国,生活在英国的 Lo 娘。
Lolita 时 尚 随 着 ACG 文 化 从 2010 左 右 传 入 中 国。自 2018 年变得更受欢迎以来,中国迅速成为了仅次于甚至 超过日本的 Lolita 市场,中国 lo 娘形成了自己的亚文化 社区。许多中国独立 Lolita 品牌也因此诞生。而当中国 lo 娘来到英国学习、工作、生活后,在更易感到孤独的 异乡生活中,lolita 继续扮演了连接她们的纽带的角色。 在这期杂志中,我们将看到她们讲述自己和 Lolita 的故 事,她们的感受和她们的思考。 主编,平面设计 阿蝉
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Foreword What is Lolita fashion? It's a fashion style and subculture from Japan that is highly influenced by Victorian clothing and styles from the Rococo period. It is a fashion full of lace, ribbons, bows and beautiful motifs. Girls dressed up with their iconic puffy skirts have a special presentation on the streets. They feel more confident and empowered when they wear Lolita fashion, like a sweet suit of armour. The strawberry is the most common and popular motif in sweet lolita. When the fruit is printed on lace and frilly dresses, it exerts a wonderful attraction on Lolita girls. This fanzine is therefore called 'STRAWBERRYpower' to celebrate our love of lolita, share our story with lolita and show how it connects us. In this first issue, we will feature six Lolita girls from China, living in the UK. Lolita fashion came to China with ACG culture (Japanese anime, comics, games) around 2010. Since becoming more popular in 2018, China has quickly become a second major Lolita market. Chinese lolita girls have formed their own subcultural community. Many Chinese indie Lolita brands have also been created. As Chinese Lolita girls move to the UK to study, work and live, Lolita fashion continues to play a role in connecting them when they are more likely to feel lonely. In this issue, we will see how they tell their stories about themselves and Lolita, their feeling and their thoughts. Editor, Graphic deisgner Siting Yao
目录
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9 Lolita 结构 11Lolita 词典 12" 一场小型游行 " -------- 访鲨球
20" 一种生活方式,一种沉默的反抗 " -------- 访四月
30"Lolita 让我变得完整 " -------- 访小狼
40" 另一个我 " -------- 访小茶
48" 一种陪伴 " -------- 访果酱
56" 我独属于自己的时光 " -------- 访学习
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Content 9
Lolita Anatomy
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Lolita Dictionary
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"A Mini Parade" (Interview with Gloria)
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"A Lifestyle , A Silent Rebellion" (Interview with April)
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"Lolita Completes Me" (Interview with XiaoLang)
40 "Another Me" (Interview with Rin) 48 "A Compnionship" (Interview with Bunny) 56 "My Own Time" (Interview with Xuexi)
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Lolita Anatomy
Lolita Anatomy Old school Lolita From Bacio Bouquet/Illustration by Siting Yao
Head wear
Handbag Wrist cuffs OP Dress
Bloomers
Socks
Mary Jane Shoes
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Lolita Dictionary
Lolita Dictionary
Brands: AP: Japanese Lolita brand Angelic Pretty Baby/BTSSB: Japanese Lolita brand Baby The Star Shine Bright BOZ: Japanese goth lolita brand Atelier Boz IW: Japanese classic Lolita brand Innocent World
Parts Of Lolita outfit: OP: One Piece dress JSK : Jump Skirt dress KC: Katyusha, Japanese for head bow
Substyles: Classic Lolita: A style of Lolita that is highly inspired by historic fashion. It radiates the elegance of a victorian lady, and appears more mature than other Lolita styles. Sweet Lolita: A style of Lolita that contains features nearly exclusive to Lolita. It is also the most child-like of the styles, using many bows, ruffles and light colours to make up an outfit. Gothic Lolita: A style of Lolita that is primarily influenced by victorian-inspired Goth styles. Old school Lolita: Also known as Traditional Lolita, is a style of Lolita that is the original version of the fashion, from before prints were standard.
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"A MINI PARADE"
「一场小型游行」 Interview with
Gloria by Siting Yao
Photoes provided by Gloria
"Mini Parade"
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"Mini Parade"
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S: 你好鲨球!我可以知道你第一次穿 lo 是什么时候吗? 有什么契机吗? G: 嗯大概是应该是一三年左右。在刚上高中的那个万圣节,准确来说那好像是第一次穿 lo。
S: 啊那我跟你好像啊。我也差不多是高一,第一次万圣节。 G:其实我现在具体的讲是哪一个契机,我有点说不准。 当时其实还停留在很喜欢万圣节,然后觉得每个万圣节都不能错过机会,要好好的穿有意思的衣服 打扮这样的一个阶段。 一般卖的万圣节服装会十分廉价。但是当时在淘宝看到表面咒语一条裙子,觉得很不一样,但当时 没有意识到它是 Lolita。 当时 Cosplay 很火,我不算圈中人,但是很感兴趣,会经常看。 后来觉得相比起 Cosplay 来说,Lo 确实是一个不需要太多门槛就可以进入的圈子,衣服的实用性也 提高了一些。Lolita 可以兼顾好看,华丽和日常,所以更加吸引人。 S:对对,Lolita 的精致度也是吸引很多人入坑的一点。 G:真的会在其他衣服中脱颖而出。 而且还有从小时后穿得比较花里胡哨的状态,逐渐转变找不到类似的衣服穿。所以穿 Lolita 也有这 方面的原因。
S: Hi Gloria! May I know when was your first time wore Lolita? Was there any kind of reason?
G: Well it must have been around the year 2013. I think it was the first time I wore a Lolita dress on the first Halloween at high school, to be exact. S: Yeah, I'm similar to you then. I was almost in my first year of high school too, my first Halloween. G: Actually, I can't say an exact reason now.At that time, I was still in the stage of loving Halloween and thinking that I should not miss the opportunity to dress up in interesting costumes every Halloween. The costumes at that time were very cheap, but when I saw the dress of Surface Spell (Chinese indie Lolita brand) on Taobao at the time, I felt very different, but I didn't realise it was Lolita. Cosplay was very popular at the time, although I wasn't really in the scene, I was very interested in it.Later on, I felt that compared to cosplay, Lolita fashion was really a circle that you didn't need much of a barrier to enter, and the practicality of the clothes had improved a bit.Lolita can be a combination of good looking, gorgeous and can wear daily, so it's more appealing to me. S: Yeah, yeah, the delicacy of the Lolita is one of the things that draws a lot of people into the scene. G: It really will stand out from the rest of your clothes. S: Yes, I agree G: And there's also the gradual shift from wearing more fancy clothes as a child to not being able to find anything similar to wear. So wearing Lolita has that aspect to it as well.
16 S: 你最喜欢的 Lolita 风格是什么呢?
G:基本上来说除了甜吧,其他我都有种草过。 主要还是会选觉 得适合自己的。
S: 下一个问题是,你有最喜欢的 Lolita 品牌吗?
G: 这个问题其实还挺难讲的。 我觉得应该就我刚才说的表面咒 语,还有狼叔家 买得比较多,然后还有新路德维希。日牌的话就 是 Anp 买比较多。所以风格还是是哥特和 Cla 比较多。 但我还是不太会成为某个品牌的粉丝这种感觉。
S : 你觉得穿 Lo 和穿常服时的感受有区别吗?
G: 有。但我觉得不完全是穿着时的感受,是那种整个人打扮起 来以后的感受。我穿 lo 都一定会化妆,然后会认真搭配一下所以 确实会有今天出门更自信一点的那种感觉。
S:或许可以给我分享一下你比较满意的 Lolita 搭 配吗? G: 好呀。这个是我上周去 Whitby Goth weekend 的一套。主 要搭配想法是古堡的女主人。(p13) 还有 20 年万圣节这套,主题 是亡灵军团的指挥。(p14)
S: What's your favourite Lolita substyle?
G: Basically, apart from sweet lolita, I've been into everything else. I mainly choose what I think suits me.
S: The next question is, do you have a favourite Lolita brand?
G: It's actually quite difficult to say for me. I think it's the Surface Spell I mentioned earlier, AmaStacia, and New Ludwig. For the Japanese brands, it's Alice and the Pirates that I buy more. So the style is still more Gothic and Classic Lolita. But I don't really feel like I'm a fan of any particular brand.
S: Do you feel any difference between wearing Lolita fashion and regular clothes?
G: Yes. But I don't think it's exactly how you feel when you wear it, it's how you feel when you're all dressed up.I always put on make-up when I wear lolita, and I put it on carefully, so I do feel a bit more confident when I go out today.
S: What's your favourite Lolita substyle?
G: Basically, apart from sweet lolita, I've been into everything else. I mainly choose what I think suits me.
"Mini Parade" S:谢谢你的分享 。 下一个 part 是关于英国的。第一个问题是, 你是什么时候来到英国的? G:2017 年的时候。
S: 你觉得在英国穿 lo 和在中国穿 lo 的感受有区别吗?区别在哪? G: 对我来说第一个区别是天气很不一样。 在深圳的话夏天真的很热,出门一阵 子就一定是满头大汗,然后脸也会变得很红,整个人的和 Lolita 该有的精神面貌 不太相符。 所以虽然以前一直都有在买,但是把他们都拿出来认真穿,确实到英国以后更多。 然后第二点是之前广州有发生过拦下哥特妆容的人不让进地铁的事件,虽然不知 道在深圳会不会发生同样的事,但感觉整体的氛围还是不太包容,不够开放。 然后在英国的话就是有的地方人不那么多,然后就可以拍一些比较没有人的照片。 更怡然自得一点。 虽然都会有被盯着的感觉,就是好像目光的成分会不太一样。 而且在英国的话,可能是因为大部分人不是同种族的人,所以有点脱敏,所以说 更加不觉得别人看有什么问题。
S: Thank you for sharing. The next part is about the UK. The first question is, when did you come to the UK? G: Back in 2017.
S: Do you think there is a difference in the feeling of wearing lo in the UK and wearing lo in China? What are the differences? G: The first difference for me is that the weather is very different. In Shenzhen, it's really hot in the summer and you'll be sweating after a while, your face will be very red, so you don't look like a Lolita girl should.So although I used to buy them all the time, but I did wear them more after I arrived in the UK. The second point is that there was an incident in Guangzhou where people in gothic makeup were stopped from entering the tube. Although I don't know if the same thing will happen in Shenzhen, but I feel that the overall atmosphere is still not very tolerant and open enough. In the UK, there are places that are not so crowded, so you can take some pictures where there are no people. It's a bit more relaxed. It's like you're will be stared at, but it's a different kind of gaze in the UK. And in the UK, it's probably because most people aren't of the same race as me, so it's a bit insensitive for me, and it's even less of a problem for people to look at me.
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S:下一个问题是,穿 lo 有让你在英国交到更多朋 友吗?
G: 穿 lo 确实是有让我认识到很多感觉大家原本不顺路应该是没 有交集的人。 它已经提供了一个你们至少在某些方面,比如说经济层面,比如 说在审美层面,你们可能是在同一个起跑线、同一个层次上的这 样一个感觉。 和穿 lo 的朋友也还会天然的就有一个共同话题。
S:那你有在英国参加过洛丽塔茶会吗?
G:我印象是我去了应该至少有四五个。有在外面举办的,也有 在家里的。 茶会的话一开始还是让大家就是轮流自我介绍一下是谁,然后现 在在读什么书或者在工作怎么样。就是有点像那种就是一个同好 交流会的那个形式。茶会主要还是一个契机,是大家在一起玩儿, 然后认识新朋友这样。 我觉得茶会转场到下个地方时,大家一群人浩浩荡荡在街上走, 非常有意思。像一个小型的游行。
S: The next question is, has wearing lolita fashion helped you to make more friends in the UK? G: Wearing lolita has really helped me to meet a lot of people who I feel we would not have otherwise crossed paths with. It has provided a sense that you are at least on the same starting line, on the same level, in some ways, like aesthetically. There's also a natural common topic with friends who wear lolita.
S: Have you ever been to a Lolita tea party in the UK? G: I think I've been to at least four or five. Some were held outside and some were held at home. At the beginning of the tea party, we probably took turns to introduce ourselves and who we were and what we were studying or what we were doing at work. It's a bit like a kind of networking event. The tea party is mainly an opportunity for people to hang out and meet new people. I think it's fun to move on to the next place and then have a bunch of people walking down the street. It's like a MINI PARADE.
"Mini Parade"
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S:我喜欢这个词!下一个问题是,除了 Lolita 之外,你有其他比较重要 的爱好吗? G:我整体来说也是受到哥特文化的影响,会经常会去特地去看相关的风格比较哥特的,艺术 性比较强一点的书或者电影。
S: 最后一个问题! 你觉得 Lolita 对你来说意味着什么?
G : 我之前有一个朋友,他跟我说 , 他觉得现代人穿的衣服太无聊了。我觉得这也算是我喜欢 Lolita 的一个核心想法。我本来就是一个比较喜欢繁复风格的人。还有点无论年纪还想继续做 梦的感觉。 随心所欲的穿历史上任何一个时期的服装,穿你想穿的样子,去表达自我,何乐而不为呢。
S: I like the word “mini parade"! The next question is, do you have any other important hobbies apart from Lolita? G: I'm influenced by gothic culture as a whole, and I often see books or films that are a bit more gothic and artistic.
S: One last question! What do you think Lolita means to you?
G: I had a friend who told me that he thought modern clothes were too boring. I think that's kind of the core idea of what I like about Lolita. I'm more of a fan of elaborate styles. There's also a sense of wanting to keep dreaming no matter what age you are. Why not wear whatever you want from any period in history, to be what you what to be, and express yourself ?
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「 一种生活方式,一种沉默的反抗」
"A LIFE ST Y LE, A SILENT REBELLION"
Interview with
April by Siting Yao
Photoes provided by April
"A Lifestyle, A Silent Rebellion"
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"A Lifestyle, A Silent Rebellion"
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S: 四月你好!请问你第一次穿 lo 是什么时候? 有什么契机吗?
A:应该是在一五年的时候,在在国内穿的是一个国牌。契机的话,就是看动漫嘛。当时喜欢《蔷 薇少女》。也接触到 cosplay,在相关贴吧里是接触到 Lolita 这种风格,发现诶它和我喜欢的美术 风格很相近。以此为契机。
S:第二个问题是你最喜欢的 Lolita 风格是什么?
A:我最喜欢的我很难选出,但我目前比较感兴趣就是甜和哥特。
S:你有最喜欢的品牌吗?
A:AP 和 Baby 我都很喜欢。Ap 做甜款真的就是很多细节,配饰搭配上也是经常有意想不到的地方。 Baby 的话我觉得更适合日常出门,不需要太多的去搭配。
S:有特别喜欢哪条或者哪几条吗?
A:Baby 的 Sweet Best Wish(p21-22), 还有 AP 的罗塞特 (p25-26) 啊,皇冠啊、钥匙啊、泰迪啊、 画框啊。跟这些元素相关的,我都很喜欢。
S:好像都和英国有点点关系?
A:对,我把它们都带到英国来了,哈哈。
S: Hi April! May I know When was the first time you wore Lolita fashion? Was there any kind of opportunity?
A: I think it was in the year2015 when I wore a Chinese indie brand. The reason was that I was watching anime. At that time, I liked "Rozen Maiden”(A Japanese animation which involved lots of Classic Lolita fashion). I also got into cosplay and got to know about Lolita style in a related community and found that it was very similar to the art style I liked. That’s the opportunity of it.
S: The second question is what's your favourite Lolita substyle?
A: It's hard for me to pick my favourite, but I'm more interested in sweet and goth at the moment.
S: Do you have a favourite Lolita brand?
A: I like both AP and Baby, Ap is really detailed in the sweet style and there's always something unexpected with the accessories. I think Baby is more suitable for daily wear, you don't need to do much to complete the coordinate.
S: Do you have a particular favourite piece?
A: Sweet Best Wish from BTSSB(p21-22), Chocolate Rossete(p25-26), Crown, Keys, Teddy and Picture frames from AP. I like anything related to these elements. S: They all seem to have a bit of a connection to the UK? A: Yes, so I bring them all to the UK, haha.
24 S:你觉得穿 lo 和穿常服的感受有区别吗?
A:我穿常服的话会比较随意一点,比较懒得打扮。但凡我有心情打扮,我就会穿 lo 这样子。 感受的话,穿 lo 就是要做好被看的准备。穿常服,你知道你就只是出门,只是穿衣服而已。 但是穿 lo 是知道会被看的,所以会比较注意一点动作仪态之类的,会比较端正一点。 我个人的一些执着穿 lo 是一定要有整体感,认真的去打扮,去花心思。让整体有“Dressed up”的感觉。 其实比起增加自信心之类的来说,我更会更偏向 "yeah, i don't care about your opinion."。
S: Do you think there's a difference in the feeling of wearing Lolita and wearing mainstream fashion?
A: I'm a bit more casual if I wear regular clothes, lazier to dress up. But whenever I'm in the mood to dress up, I'll wear lolita. In terms of feeling, wearing lo means you have to be prepared to be looked at. In regular clothes, you know you're just going out, you're just wearing clothes. But when you wear lolita, you know you're going to be looked at, so you're a little more aware of your gestures and grooming, you're a little more formal. My personal obsession with wearing lolita is that you have to have a sense of the whole, be serious about dressing up, and put some thought into it. It's important to have a "Dressed up" feeling. In fact, I feel more like "yeah, I don't care about your opinion" than increasing my confidence.
"A Lifestyle, A Silent Rebellion"
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"A Lifestyle, A Silent Rebellion"
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S: 下一个问题是,你是什么时候来到英国的? A: 是 2019 年来的。
S: 你觉得在英国穿 Lolita 和在中国有区别吗? A:我觉得在英国比较宽容,不会有人拿着手机对你拍照的这 种情况。而且因为我本身我们在伦敦嘛,相对来说就是比较奇 装异服的人比较多的一个城市。所以大家见怪不怪了已经。 但还有一点是东西你要转运过来,对,运输成本比较高。所以 选裙子会选真正喜欢的。
S:你在英国有参加过茶会吗?有在茶会上交到 新朋友吗? A:有的。我现在玩的比较近的几个朋友,都是通过穿过 Lo 认识的。
S:Lolita 会有点像桥梁吗?
A:对,因为大家每个人不同的学校,不同的生活状态,不同 的地理位置。但是因为穿 lo 这件事会连接起来。在这个连接 基础上可能会发现新的共同点,又变得更加紧密了。
S: The next question is, when did you come to the UK? A: I came in 2019.
S: Do you think there is a difference between wearing Lolita in the UK and in China? A: I think in the UK it's more tolerant, there's no one taking pictures of you with a mobile phone. And because I'm in London, it's a city where there are relatively more people in fancy dress. So it's not unusual for people to see this. But the other thing is that you have to transfer things over from Asia, yes, it's more expensive to transport. So you choose dresses that you really like.
S: Did you go to any Lolita tea parties in the UK? Did you make any new friends at the tea parties? A: Yes. My closest friends now were met through Lolita fashion.
S: Would Lolita like a bridging point to you?
A: Yes, because we are all in different universities, different life situations and different geographical locations. But we connect through wearing Lolita. Based on this connection, we might find new things in common and become closer.
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S:下一个问题是,除了 Lolita 之外,你有什么其 他很重要的爱好吗? A: 有啊,比如 ACG 文化,这个本来就是和 Lolita 同源的嘛。
S: 最后一个问题是,你觉得 Lolita 对你来说意味 着什么?
A:我觉得是一种生活方式。因为我也有做相关的研究的,其实我 很纠结,要把 Lolita 归为一个 fashion,还是归为一个亚文化,还 是归为一个生活方式。 因为它是一个很宽容的时尚。我们有甜,哥 特,古典的,还有汉 lolita,和风 lolita,什么都有。很多种演绎方式, 所以说每个人都带有自己的特色。后来的人也会在前者的基础上, 自己去增加。其实离最开始的女孩子想要穿蓬蓬裙,做像小公主一 样,在粉粉的房间里面活一辈子的那种意象,已经不太一样了,演 变得很远了。 Lolita 是一种“沉默的反抗”。它是一种反抗,但它不是那种我 要跟你去硬碰硬的那种感觉,更像是那种以柔克刚那样的。它是 一 个 statement,“ 我 和 你 们 不 一 样”, 但 是 它 不 希 望 我 这 个 statement 让你们感觉到不舒服。就是我这个 statement 本身也 必须要漂漂亮亮的。我希望这种反抗的意识,也是通过一种完美的 方式来呈现出来的。 追溯到起源的话,lolita 的反抗也是一种对社会常态的反抗。是对 日本,对于那种女子成年以后就要婚嫁,然后就成为人妻的那种生 活形式的反抗。她们会说,我要一辈子当小孩,我要穿小公主的衣 服,我就要变得很幼稚,这样你就不会把我看成一个成年女性,你 就不会想要娶我为你的妻子。是一种“逃避主义”。
S: Do you have any other important hobbies apart from Lolita? A: Yes, like ACG culture, which is shared a similar origin with Lolita.
S: The last question is, what do you think Lolita means to you?
A: I think it's a lifestyle. I've done research on this before, and I'm actually struggling with whether to classify Lolita as a fashion, a subculture, or a lifestyle because it's a very tolerant fashion. We have sweet, gothic, classical, Han Lolita, Wa Lolita, everything. We have everything. There are many interpretations so each one carries its own character. The later ones also add to the former ones to improve it. In fact, it's not quite the same as the original imagery of a girl wanting to wear a puffy dress and live her whole life in a pink room like a little princess now, it's evolved a lot. I also think Lolita is a "silent rebellion". It's a kind of resistance, but it's not like I'm going to fight you, it's more like a kind of softness against strength. It's a statement, "I'm not like you", but it doesn't want to make you feel uncomfortable with this statement. It's that my statement itself has to be beautiful. I want this sense of rebellion to be presented in a perfect way as well. Going back to its origins, lolita's rebellion is also a rebellion against the social norm. It's a rebellion against the Japanese way of life where women have to get married when they become adults and then become housewives. They would say, "I'm going to be a child all my life, I'm going to wear little princess clothes, I'm going to be childish so that you don't see me as a grown-up woman and you won't want to marry me.
"A Lifestyle, A Silent Rebellion"
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"LOLITA COMPLET ES ME"
「 让我完整」 Lolita Interview with
Xiaolang by Siting Yao
Photoes provided by Xiaolang
"Lolita Completes Me"
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"Lolita Completes Me"
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S : 你好小狼!可以给我分享你第一次穿 lo 的故事吗?
X:第一次穿的话,那应该是大一大二,大概 14,15 年这个时候吧。 第一条是一条中华风小萌款它叫做尧山风神,尧就是尧舜禹的尧。印花, 大概是水墨风吧。然后旗袍领全开襟,然后开襟的部分是黑色的。日牌 的话第一条是 Babydoll。 当时就真的是跟动漫关系很大。首先我不是先出 cos 嘛,后来我觉得我 出 cos 不像,我知道 Lolita 之后我就觉得,穿 lolita 我可以做自己的 同时穿华丽的裙子,没有必要去完整的出一个角色。
S:第二个问题是,你最喜欢的 Lolita 风格是哪个呀?
X:我最适合的应该是甜系。但是最喜欢的,是哥特 Lolita。但是我穿 不出来那种感觉。 我可以把哥特穿成甜系,就我的朋友们已经习惯了,我穿什么都是甜。
S:你有最喜欢哪个品牌吗?为什么最喜欢它?
R:我喜欢 19 年或者 18 年以前的 AP,现在的 AP 我不喜欢。我觉得 现在它的设计精细度没有以前高了。 我也还挺喜欢 Boz 的,但是像我刚才说我最喜欢哥特,但穿不出那个 感觉,所以我只有大概三件的样子。
S: Hi Xiaolang! When was the first time you wore Lolita?
X: The first time I wore it was my freshman year, around 2014-2015. The first one was a Han Lolita. It was called Yao Shan Feng Shen ( 尧 山 风 神) The motif was traditional watercolour style. My first Japanese brand Lolita dress is Babydoll from BTSSB. At that time the opportunity was really related to anime. First of all, I was into cosplay, but I thought I didn't look like the character I wanted to be. After I knew about Lolita I thought, wearing lolita I can be myself while wearing a gorgeous dress, there is no need to dress up as a character to wear fancy dresses.
S: The second question is, which is your favourite Lolita style?
X: My most suitable style for me would be Sweet Lolita. My favourite is actually Gothic Lolita, but it’s not that suits me.
S: Do you have a favourite brand? Why do you like it the most?
R: I like AP before 2019 or 2018, I don't like AP now. I don't think it's as finely designed now as it used to be. I kinda like Boz too, as I said earlier I like Goth the most, but it does not suit me, so I only have like three pieces.
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S:嗯,你每次穿 Lolita 时的感受和穿常服有区别吗?
X:你这个问题问不了我,因为我开始穿 lo 之后就基本上每天穿 lo 了,只有买菜 的时候穿制服。 但我有的时候犯懒,穿得痛一点或者说没有穿 Lolita 出门的话, 我就会不那么自信。我觉得我没有以一个最好的状态去出门去展示给别人。所以 这个时候我很怕被别人看到。简单来说,我穿 Lo 的时候是昂首挺胸的走路的。我 不在意别人觉得丑不丑,因为我觉得我“perfect,i don't care”。但是如果我没 有穿 Lolita,或者那天甚至是穿了,但是我想带一个配饰,我忘记带了,我就会 非常的不自信。我觉得我是不完美的。 我觉得不是穿 Lolita 让我变得自信了,而是我感觉穿 Lolita 之后我才完整。我就 觉得这个风格更属于我更适合我,变成了我的一部分。
S: Well, the next question is how do you feel every time you wear Lolita, compare to your other clothes?
X: You are not asking the right person because I have been wearing lolita every day since I started wearing it, and I only wear my regular clothes when I go grocery shopping. To put it simply, I walk with my head held high when I wear Lolita. I don't care if people think it's ugly or not, because I think "I'm perfect, I don't care". But if I don't wear Lolita, or if I even wear it that day, but I forget to put on an accessory, I will not feel confident. I feel like I'm not perfect. I don't think wearing Lolita has made me confident, but I feel like I'm complete after wearing Lolita. I just feel like the style belongs to me and suits me better, it becomes a part of me.
"Lolita Completes Me"
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"Lolita Completes Me"
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S:你是什么时候来到英国的呢? X:也是 2015 年左右。
S:那你觉得在英国穿 Lolita 的感受和在国内穿有区别吗?
X:有的。来伦敦之后,我就发现,我可真喜欢这个地方,就是因为我可以穿得 再怎么呲都无所谓。我当时给我妈讲了一个小故事,我那天穿的黑色的砂糖马, 然后戴了一个蓝紫渐变的假发,去看艺术展。在艺术展上溜达的时候,旁边走过 一个头发五颜六色的老奶奶。她夸我我好看,问我可不可以跟我合影。 我的意思是就是,在伦敦不只有我一个奇怪的人,奇怪的人多的是,所以他们可 能就不会太在意到你。 但我之前在上海,我和朋友去大学城附近,穿的是古早风的国牌,我戴了波奈特, 她戴了 KC。我觉得就是很正常的搭配,到哪就一直被人盯着,盯到我都觉得害怕。 我觉得英国的氛围比较偏向你穿的好看,人家会觉得你在取悦自己,但是国内可 能还处于你是不是要取悦哪个男人的阶段。
S: When did you come to the UK? X: Around 2015 as well.
S: And do you think there's a difference in how you feel wearing Lolita in the UK compared to wearing it in China?
X: Yes. Once I came to London, I realised that I really liked this place, just because I could wear it as much as I wanted and it didn't matter. I told my mum a little story about the day I wore a dress from AP and ta blue and purple gradient wig to an art exhibition. As I was walking around the art show, a granny with colourful hair walked by. She complimented me on how good I looked and asked if she could take a picture with me. I mean, I'm not the only weird one in London, there are plenty of weird people, so they might not care too much about you. But when I was in Shanghai, my friend and I went around the university town and wore old school lolita, I wore Bonnet and she wore KC, which I think is a very normal outfit. But I got a lot of stares everywhere I went, and I felt scared. I think the vibe in the UK is more on the side of you dressing up and people thinking you're pleasing yourself, but in China, it's probably still at the stage of whether you're trying to please any man or not.
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S:下一个问题是,穿 Lolita 有让你交到更多朋友吗?
X:对,我现在朋友基本上都是 Lo 娘朋友。差不多都是在英国一起开茶会认识的。 刚开始的时候,大家肯定是都是聊裙子,可以拿裙子作为破冰的话题,是吧? 但是你聊久了之后,你会发现就是有一些人和你你有共同爱好,然后同时有类似 的三观,或者有类似的背景。你就更容易跟他变成朋友。 之前也有也有人问我,说为什么 lo 娘就一定要跟 lo 娘交朋友。我说不是啊,只 是有共同的爱好,再从有共同爱好的人里面,找可能三观一致或者背景一致的。 然后他就问我说,那你为什么不能先找,比如说从留学生或者说你同校的人里面, 我说可是那你先筛,如果你是先筛背景,再筛三观,到最后你还是希望有共同爱 好的人,因为你们可以一起去分享做一些事情。
S:我的下一个问题也是关于茶会的。可以详细讲讲关于在英国 的 Lolita 茶会的感受吗?
X:我在英国读研究生的那一年,几乎每个月都有茶会。而且从刚开始的时二十 个人然后越办越大越办越大,甚至找不到那么大的场地。 不过大的茶会的话反而 会容易认识不到新的人所。以后来也也会有比较小型的茶会,比如今天在下午茶 店订了五六个位置,然后问问群里谁有空啊,这种小的茶会也是蛮多的。 我觉得茶会主要就是给了大家可以一起聊一聊的舒服的环境,一个交朋友的场合。
S: The next question is, has wearing Lolita helped you to make more friends?
X: Yes, my friends are basically all Lolita girls now. Pretty much all of them I met at a tea party in the UK. In the beginning, everyone was definitely talking about dresses and you could use them as an icebreaker, right? But after you've talked for a long time, you'll find that there are people who share your interests, and then have similar attitudes or similar backgrounds. It's easier for you to become friends with them. Some people have asked me before why it is necessary to be friends with lolita girls. I said no, it's just a matter of having common hobbies, and then looking for people with the same value or background as those who have common hobbies. Then he asked me, "Why can't you look first, for example, from international students or people from your college?" I said, "But then if you are sifting through backgrounds first, then values, at the end of the day you still want people with common hobbies, because you can share thoughts with them and do something together.
S: My next question is also about tea parties. Can you tell us more about what it was like to be at a Lolita tea party in the UK?
X: When I was a postgraduate student in the UK, there was a tea party almost every month. It started with about 20 people and then got bigger and bigger and bigger, and we couldn't even find a venue that big. However, if you have a big tea party, it is difficult to meet new people because is talking to people they already knew. So later on, there were also smaller tea parties, such as booking five or six places at the afternoon tea café today and asking who was free in the chat group. All in all, I think tea parties mainly give people a comfortable environment to talk together and a chance to make friends.
"Lolita Completes Me"
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S:除了 Lolita 之外,你还有什么其他也比较重要的爱好吗?
X:养猫算吗?我状态不好的时候,一个是抱着猫摸它,然后你看着它就会很治愈, 整个人就会平静下来。还有一个就是去自己的衣帽间,看着裙子,之后会闻到那个 裙子的味道,就是那种衣服的味道,会非常的安心。 还有一个爱好就是看动画吧。还有漫画,日本动画加漫画。看动画也会让我平静下来。 我就觉得在我很辛苦时候,这三个真的是能让我的灵魂感受到慰藉了。
S:最后一个问题是,你觉得洛丽塔对你来说意味着什么?
X:Lolita 让我变得完整。 它不是本身就属于我的一部分,但是有了它,我觉得我的人生更完整了。我确实想 象不到,我不穿 Lolita 的话现在会是什么样子。相比 cosplay,穿 lo 会让我觉得我 在打造我自己。因为你 cos 的话,是在扮演别人。但是穿 lo 我就觉得我在扮演我自 己,我在扮演一个更美好更可爱的,更完美的我自己。
S: Apart from Lolita, do you have any other hobbies that are also important to you?
X: Does having a cat count? When I'm in a bad state, one thing I do is hold my cat and pet it, it's very healing and calms you down. Another one is to go to my cloakroom and look at my dresses, and also I will smell the smell of dresses, and it will be very relieving. Another hobby is watching anime, I think. And manga, Japanese anime and comics. Watching anime also calms me down. I feel that when I'm having a hard time, these three really help my soul to feel comforted.
S: The last question is, what do you think Lolita means to you?
X: Lolita makes me complete. It's not a part of me at the beginning, but with it, I feel more complete in my life. I really can't imagine what I would look like now if I didn't wear Lolita. Wearing lolita makes me feel like I'm building myself as opposed to cosplaying. Because when you cosplay, you're playing someone else. But in lolita I feel like I'm playing myself, I'm playing a better, lovelier, more perfect version of myself.
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"ANOT HER ME"
「另一个我」 Interview with
Rin by Siting Yao
Photoes provided by Rin
"Another Me"
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"Another Me" S: 你好小茶,我可以知道你是什么时候开始穿 lo 的 吗? R: 大 概 在 15 年 底 的 时 候, 参 加 MCM 漫 展 的 时 候 第 一 次 知 道 Lolita fashion。后来从朋友果酱那里了解后开始穿。第一条裙子 是 16 年 2 月参加茶会时穿的叙情诗。
S:你最喜欢的 lolita 风格是什么?
R: 比较喜欢 Cla 偏甜的风格。大概 70% 的 Classic,30% 的甜的样 子。太优雅的 Cla 款会感觉有一点点无聊。
S:下一个问题是,你有最喜欢的品牌吗?
R:我很喜欢 AP 的紫标 line, 它和我想要的风格非常契合。 国牌 比较喜欢玻璃纸之夜,天使之心。其他的话就看具体的设计再决定 买不买,不太会看品牌了。 S:不过我还以为你会喜欢 Baby 呢,在我印象里它也很符合 Cla 里带一点甜。 R : Baby, 我之前很喜欢 IW 和 Baby,但是 IW 这几年是越做越 无聊,然后 Baby 是越来越贵,然后也感觉没有很多创新什么的。 老款会比较喜欢一点,老款的好看。
S: May I know how you started to wear lolita?
R: I first found out about Lolita fashion at the end of 2015 when I attended MCM Comic Con, and then I started wearing it after learning about it from my friend Bunny. The first dress I wore was "narrative poem” from SweetLoreley for a tea party in February 2016.
S: What is your favourite lolita substyle?
R: I like a sweeter style of Classic Lolita. It's about 70% classic and 30% sweet. If it's too classy, it's a bit boring for me.
S: The next question is, do you have a favourite brand?
R: I really like AP's Purple Label line, it fits my style very well. For Chinese Brands, I like Nuit de Cellophane and Angel’s Heart. Other than that, it depends on the design, I don't really look at brands. S: I thought you'd like BTSSB though, I think it fits in the sweeter style of Classic Lolita. R: I used to like IW and BTSSB, but IW has been getting more and more boring over the years, and BTSSB is getting more and more expensive, and I don't feel like there's a lot of innovation or anything. I like the old design a bit more.
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44 S : 你每次穿 Lolita 时感受怎么样?
R: 嗯,我会觉得很不一样,因为我日常穿都会比较休闲,比较街头一点。然后穿 Lolita 的时候会感觉自己精致很多,更 feminie 一些。会感觉是另一面的自己。
S:会有一点穿 Lolita 时是另一个人这样的感觉是吗?
R:嗯,是的是的。
S: 那你会有,比如说就是举动上的区别嘛,或者说是心态上的?
R:心态上倒还好,可能举动上会比较注意一下坐姿啊,因为感觉穿 Lolita 就是需要 仪态比较端庄的时候才会更好看一点。然后穿地球人就比较随意了,比较大大咧咧一点。 但我不会觉得很麻烦,或者是需要很多努力,就只是一个很自然的事情。 其实也是有一部分是因为感觉穿裙子和穿比较休闲的衣服的行动限制范围也不太一 样?比如穿裙子我不能岔着腿在地铁上坐。一是担心会走光,二是担心会很违和,不 太好看。说话这方面我觉得没有太多影响,还是都是说一样的话。
S: How do you feel every time when you wear Lolita?
R: Well, I feel different because I wear regular clothes on a more casual, street style basis. But when I wear Lolita, I feel more sophisticated, more feminine. I feel like a different side of myself.
S: You feel like a different person when you wear Lolita, don't you? R: Yes.
S: Do you have, for example, a difference in the way you act, or a difference in your attitude?
R: Attitude, probably, I would pay more attention to my sitting posture, because I feel that Lolita looks better when I am more dignified. I will be more casual when I wear regular clothes. But I don't think it's a lot of trouble or effort, it's just a very natural thing to do. And it’s also because it feels like the range of movement restrictions are not quite the same in a Lolita dress as in more casual clothes. For example, I can't sit on the tube seat with my legs spread in Lolita. But I don't think it affects me too much in terms of speaking, I still say the same things.
"Another Me"
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S:下一个问题是,你是什么时候来到英国的?
R:我 2012 年来这边读的高中,然后就一直在这里学习,工作。 S:哇,好早啊,已经十年了。 R:是的,时间飞快啊。
S:第二个问题我不知道你有没有这个经历,就是你有在国 内穿过 Lolita 吗?
R: 我很少在国内穿着,就是因为我回去时间比较少,然后陪跟家人出门的话, 就基本上就是常服。顶多就会穿比较低调的痛 lo,就不会说很认真的去思考妆 容 , 裙撑,还有袜子之类的搭配。
S:那你觉得在英国和在国内穿 Lo 的感受有区别吗?
R:我觉得会有区别。在这边大家不会太明目张胆的去看你或者怎么样,他们 会发出来的信息也是都是比较正面的。但是在国内的话会感受到一点眼神上的 judging。因为国内 Lo 娘比较多嘛,也经常能遇到别的穿 Lolita 的小姐姐。 在国内遇到,就不会说上去搭话或者什么,但这边至少有打个招呼啊,微笑之 类的。
S: The next question is, when did you come to the UK? R: I came here for high school in 2012 and then I've been studying and working here ever since.
S: Wow, that's quite a long time ago, it's been ten years. R: Yes, time flies.
S: The second question I don't know if you've had this experience is have you ever worn Lolita in China?
R: I rarely wear it in China, because I don't go back much, and when I go out with my family, it's basically just regular clothes. At most, I would wear a more understated Lolita, and I wouldn't really think about the make-up, the petticoats, the socks and so on.
S: Do you think there is a difference between wearing Lolita in the UK and in China?
R: I think there would be a difference. Over here people don't look at you too blatantly or anything, and the messages they send out are more positive. But in China, there is a bit of judging in the eye-sight. And also because there are more Lolita girls in China, and I often meet other girls wearing Lolita. But when I meet them in China, I don't say anything to them, in the UK is harder to meet them, so at least I might say hello or just smile at them.
46 S:嗯好的,下一个问题是,穿 Lolita 有 让你交到更多的朋友吗?
R: 有的有的。我的朋友就是分成两拨嘛,一部分就是 生活学习工作认识的人,另一部分就是穿 Lolita 认识 的人。 固 定 的 好 朋 友 就 是 会 经 常 定 期 见 面, 大 家 一 起 穿 Lolita 出门。或者就是如果大家都懒得收拾了,就也 是会穿常服这样出来见面的。嗯,我觉得会有认识到 更多的朋友。
S:好,下一个问题是关于茶会的。你有 在英国参加过 Lolita 茶会吗?感受怎么 样? R:有参加过中国人组织的茶会。会在茶会上和朋友 聊天啊什么的。
S:参加过多少次呢? R:之前不工作的时候,感觉一年会固定的两三次。 但是后来因为疫情,也就变得少一些了。 对了我还去一次 AP 巴黎的茶会。感觉大家好精致啊, 我明明已经很努力打扮了,但是还是被大家的用心的 程度给震撼到。大家都很漂亮,都很精致,从头到脚。
S: Okay, next question is, has wearing Lolita helped you to make more friends?
R: Yes, yes. My friends are divided into two groups, one is people I know from work and the other is people I know from wearing Lolita. In the second group, we meet regularly and wear Lolita out together. Or if we're too lazy to dress up, we'll wear our regular clothes to meet up. Well, I think I've made a lot more friends through Lolita.
S: Okay, the next question is about the tea party. Have you ever been to a Lolita tea party in the UK? What was the experience like? R: I have attended tea parties organised by the Chinese Lolita Community. I would chat with my friends and stuff at the tea parties.
S: How many times have you attended?
R: Before, when I wasn't working, I think I used to go regularly two or three times a year. But then, because of the pandemic, it became less frequent. By the way, I also went to an AP Paris tea party once. I felt that everyone was so sophisticated, and I was so impressed by how much effort they put into dressing up. Everyone was beautiful and so delicate, from head to toe.
"Another Me" S:好的,谢谢你的分享。除了洛丽 塔之外,有什么其他对你来说也比 较重要的爱好吗? R:喜欢打羽毛球,还有喜欢看一些运动番, 超级英雄电影之类的。
S:最后一个问题是,你觉得 lolita 对你来说意味着什么呢?
R: 我觉得它是我的很多个自我中的其中一个 吧,于日常生活中那个我比较独立的存在。
S: Okay, thank you so much for sharing. Apart from Lolita, are there any other hobbies that are more important to you as well? R: I like to play badminton, and I like to watch Japanese sports animation, superhero movies and stuff like that.
S: The last question is, what do you think lolita means to you?
R: I think it's one of my many selves, separate existence from the one I am in my daily life.
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"A COMPANIONSHIP"
「一种陪伴」 Interview with
Bunny by Siting Yao
Photoes provided by Bunny
"A Companionship"
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"A Companionship" S : 你好果酱!可以给我分享你第一次穿 lo 的故事吗?
B:我忘了当时是怎么买的了,但是我记得我的第一条裙子是 Baby 的 Chouchou,记得很清楚。
S:第二个问题是 , 你最喜欢的 Lolita 风格是? B:我觉得我之前很喜欢甜,但是我现在好像更喜欢哥特。
S:第三个问题是,你有最喜欢的品牌吗?
B:我一直在 AP 跟 Baby 中间纠结。AP 的话就喜欢印花,然后喜欢 它的一些就是就感觉它有很多华丽的那种小细节,都喜欢。 Baby 的话 , 感觉 Baby 的裙子有那种复古感,有洋娃娃的感觉。
S: 你穿 Lolita 时感受怎么样?会和穿常服的感受有区 别吗?
B:会有一点点。穿 Lolita 的时候会就是会更好好的打扮一点吧。我 穿常服风格会比较酷一点。如果穿 Lolita 的话,我觉得还是会收到很 多目光,虽然我觉得在英国都是很好的目光,但还是要做好被人盯的 准备。
S: Hi Bunny! Can you share with me how you started to wear lolita? B: I forget how I bought it at the time, but I remember my first dress was named Chouchou, from BTSSB, I remember it very clearly.
S: The second question is, what is your favourite Lolita substyle? B: I think I liked Sweet Lolita before, but I seem to be more into Goth Lolita now.
S: The third question is, do you have a favourite Lolita fashion brand? B: I've always been torn between AP and BTSSB. For AP, I like the beautiful motifs and the little details. With BTSSB, I feel that their dresses have a vintage feel and a doll-like feel, I like it.
S: Do you feel differently when you wear Lolita compared to your regular clothes?
B: It's a little bit different. When I wear Lolita, I'm just a bit more dressed up, I guess. I'm a bit cooler in regular clothes. If you wear Lolita, you'll get a lot of stares, although I think in the UK it's all good stares, you still have to be prepared to get stares.
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B:我记得应该是从一七年的时候开始组织茶会,以前组织茶会 是因为,我当时经常玩微博,然后就有很认识很多其他学校的 姑娘,刚开始大家每次都是小聚,跟这几个人聚一聚,跟别人 聚一聚,大家都分得有点开。后来就觉得说要不就大家一起办 茶会,把大家都聚在一起这样。而且也因为当时就感觉国内茶 会办的很好,所以就觉得要不也办一下茶会吧。参加茶会时候 真的感觉大家一起很开心,可跟原本不同圈子的人玩啊,社交 什么的。
S:所以会有那种如果不是都穿 Lolita 的话认识 不到这个人的感觉吗? B:我非常有这种感觉。我的其他朋友和 lo 娘朋友的感情会不 太一样。Lo 娘朋友大家都是学不同专业的,有 UCL 的,也有 Imperial 的。我觉得如果不穿 lo 的话,根本就认识不到,有 点不是一个世界的人。Lolita 是一个把我们连接在一起的一个 点。
S: The next question is, I know you've organised many lolita tea parties, can I know when you started and why you had the idea at that time?
B: I think I started organising tea parties in 2017. In the beginning, I organise tea parties because I used to use social media a lot and I got to know a lot of lolita girls from other universities. At first, we had small parties, with these few people this time and with others next time, but we were all a bit separated. Later on, I thought that we should hold a big tea party so that we could all get together. Also because I felt that the tea parties in Asia were very good at that time, I thought why not have a big lolita tea party as well. When I attended the tea parties, I really felt that we were having a lot of fun together, playing with people from different backgrounds, socialising and so on.
S: Do you have the feeling that you wouldn't know this person if she wasn't also wearing Lolita?
B: I feel that way a lot. My other friends are not the same as my lolita friends, who are all studying different subjects, from UCL to Imperial College. I don't think we would know each other if we didn't wear lolita, it's a bit of a different world, Lolita is the one thing that brings us together.
"A Companionship"
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"A Companionship" S:最后一个问题是 你觉得 Lolita 对你来说意味着什么呢?
B:我觉得我之前穿 Lolita 的时候,没有想过会穿这么多年,当时就单纯的真 的觉得它就是一个好看的小裙子。但是我后来因为穿 lo 认识了很多很多很好的 朋友,也就成为了我生活中很重要的一部分。我觉得已经更像一种陪伴了对我 来说。 而且又回国开过 Lo 店,gap year 的时候。
S:哇原来你开过店!
B:对,在淘宝开过店。我也是学服装相关专业的嘛。2018 年左右的时候开的。 但是因为后来回来读书了,我就没有继续开了。开店真的挺累的,因为你要做 设计,又要看工厂做东西出来,就很需要人盯着。 如果没有需要回来读书,我可能会继续做下去。因为就想把自己的设计做出来, 然后让大家喜欢。没有考虑特别多盈利啊什么的,所以还是比较偏向因为真的 喜欢,所以才开店。
S: The last question is what do you think Lolita means to you?
B: When I wore Lolita before, I didn't think I would wear it for so many years, I simply really thought it was just a nice little dress at the time. But I have since met many, many great friends because of wearing lolita and it has become a very important part of my life. It's like Lolita fashion and I have become a companionship. And I also had a Lolita indie brand back in China, during the gap year.
S: Wow, so you had a Lolita brand!
B: Yes, I had an online shop on Taobao. I'm a Fashion related major. I opened it around 2018. But since I came back to the UK to study later, I didn't continue. It's tiring to open a shop because you have to do the design and watch the factory make the products, so you really need to keep an eye on it. If I hadn't needed to come back to study, I probably would have continued. Because I just want to make my own designs and get people to like them. I'm not thinking about profit or anything like that, so I opened the shop just because I really like lolita fashion.
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"MY OWN T IME"
「我独属于自己的时间」 Interview with
Xuexi by Siting Yao
Photoes provided by Xuexi/Illustration by Xuexi
"My Own Time"
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"My Own Time"
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S: 可以讲讲你第一次穿 Lolita 是什么时候吗? 第一条 Lolita 裙子是哪条?
X:第一条 Lolita 是小熊星座的某一年的福袋款,当时是我上 本科的第一年,是 2014 年秋季。 最开始知道 Lolita 应该是是高中的时候,但是对当时高中生的 我来说,价格还是蛮贵的。到读大学之后,有自己能支配的钱了, 就开始买了。
S:第二个问题是你最喜欢的洛丽塔风格是?
X:Classic 吧,以前是 Classic, 但是最近年龄大了反而喜欢 甜呲款了。
S:你有喜欢的品牌吗?
X:以前最喜欢的是 IW。喜欢比较低调,或者说在我看来很低 调,但是在别人看来看来并没有很低调的那种。 现在喜欢 Jane Marple。 我也有几套 fullset 的 AP,是收藏的那种感觉,只会在聚会的 时候穿吧。
S: 第四个问题是你穿 Lolita 时候的感受和穿常服 时有区别吗? X:穿 lolita 出门的时候会有种一半高兴,一半被别人注视的尴 尬的感觉。
S: Can you tell us about the first time you wore Lolita fashion? Which was your first Lolita dress?
X: My first Lolita dress was a lucky bag from Little Dipper, it was my first year of undergrad and it was Fall 2014. I think the first time I knew about lolita was in high school, but it was quite expensive for me as a high school student at the time. Once I got to university and had the money I was able to spend, I started buying them.
S: The second question is what is your favourite Lolita substyle?
X: Classic Lolita, I think. Back in the day, it was Classic Lolita, but recently I'm more into Sweet Lolita.
S: Do you have a favourite brand?
X: IW used to be my favourite, I like to be more understated, or I think it's understated, but to others, it doesn't seem very understated. Now I like Jane Marple. I also have a few fullset AP that I collect, but I only wear them for parties, I guess.
S: Do you feel differently when you wear Lolita compared to your regular clothes? X: Yes. When I go out in Lolita fashion, I feel half happy and half embarrassed to be watched.
60 S:我知道您一直有在画相关洛丽塔相关的插画和饼图的委托, 请问您是什么时候开始相关创作的呢?
X:最开始是我的一个朋友,和她的另一个朋友,他们一起开了一家店,叫妖精 之歌。因为我之前我画过一些同人图什么的,他们就其中一个店主就过来跟我 说要不要试一下画柄图,然后就开始了创作之路。
S:您画柄图有什么灵感来源和参考吗?
X:有的,其实我基本上每个柄图都会有一些参考。我的故事柄基本上就是来自 于一些小说啊、电影啊,还有一些藏得很深的一些细节。我也不指望别人能看 得出来,就是满足自己的私心去画的。
S:有可以具体讲讲的吗? X:乌鸦与少年(p61)是我画的第二个柄,它是关于一部后来改编成电影的小说, 叫鬼魔坊。 它是一个德国的青少年文学作品。年代在十八世纪中叶。故事是关于一群少年 和一个有魔法的磨坊师傅的,相当于师徒一样的这种故事。柄图上的乌鸦,还 有相框里面的一些情节都是来自于这个小说。 还有仲夏物语的郁金香(p62),是看到一部叫叫郁金香狂热的电影产生的灵感。
S: I know you've been working on a lot of lolita related illustrations and motifs commissions, when did you first start working on them? X: It started with a friend of mine, and another friend of hers, who had a lolita indie brand together called "Das lied der Elfen". Since I had done some fanart before, one of the shop owners came to me and asked me if I wanted to try my hand at drawing motifs of lolita, and that’s how I started drawing them.
S: Do you have any inspirations or references for your drawings? X: Yes, actually I have some reference for basically every motif drawing. My narrative motifs basically come from some novels and movies. Some details are hidden very deep. I don't expect people to discover it, I just draw it to satisfy myself.
S: Is there any particulars you can tell us about?
X: “Krähe und Junge”(Crows and the Boy) is the second motif I drew, which is about a German novel written by Otfried Preußler that was later adapted into a film, called Krabat. The story happened in the mid-eighteenth century. It's about a group of teens and a magical mill master. The Crows on the motif and the scenes in the picture frame are all based on this novel. And “Tulips" for the brand “Summer Fairy” was inspired by a film called Tulip Fever.
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"My Own Time" S:请问您是自学的插画吗?
X:小时候上过那种课外辅导班,是我小学时候的事情。后面就 是初中的时候买了数位板,开始自己倒腾,然后就一直开始画了。
S:风格是怎么形成的呢?
X:我一开始是受到了有今井キラ的影响。我觉得之后是更受到 了 Henriette Willebeek le Mair,一位 20 世纪的荷兰儿童插画 师。
S: Did you learn illustration on your own?
X: When I was a kid, I went to those after-school classes. After that was when I bought a graphics tablet in junior high school and started figuring it out on my own. Then I just kept drawing til now.
S: How did your illustration style develop?
X: I was influenced by Kira Imai at first. I think after that it was more influenced by Henriette Willebeek le Mair, a Dutch children's illustrator from the 20th century.
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S:感谢您的分享! 接下是一些关于英国的问题。第一个问题是,你 是什么时候来到英国的? X:我第一次来英国是来 2015 年。当时是我们学校跟这边学校有一个夏季交流项目,也是在 我现在所在的这个城市,我回去在我本科学校呆了几年之后,就 2018 年出来读研。硕士研究 生结束了之后回去 gap 了一年。现在是回来了然后一直在读博。
S:你觉得在英国穿 lolita 跟在国内的感受有区别吗?
X:有点区别。在这边大家就算看你,他们也不会直接盯着你看。而且这边奇怪的人也蛮多的, 可能都习惯了。
S:下一个问题是 lolita 有让你交到更多朋友吗?
X:有。我平时的交际圈倒不是很大,基本上就是同学了。 你知道微博上的 LolitaUK 这个账号吗?我以前有一个交到的朋友是,她穿了我画的一个柄图 的裙子然后艾特那个账号,那个账号转发,我就看到了。我就私信说哈喽,你也在英国呀, 我这是这个柄图的设计师哦,跟我出来玩。 另外一个原因是我看到她微博里,她也是有时候去看剧院看剧什么的,我也喜欢,所以我们 第一次见面就约了一起去看剧。
S: Thank you for sharing! Next are some questions about the UK. The first question is, when did you come to the UK? X: I first came to the UK in 2015. At that time, my university had a summer exchange programme with universities in the UK, and I went back to stay at my undergraduate school for a few years before coming out for my postgraduate studies in 2018. And I went back to China for a gap year after my master's degree. Now I am doing my PhD in the UK.
S: Do you think there's a difference between wearing lolita in the UK and China?
X: It's a bit different. Even if people look at you here, they don't stare at you directly. And there are quite a lot of people who wear strange things over here, so they are probably used to it.
S: The next question is, has lolita fashion helped you to make more friends? X: Yes. I don't really have a big social circle, it's just my classmates. So it helped me a lot. Do you know the account LolitaUK on Weibo? I made a friend through it. She wore a dress with a motif I drew and tweeted it, and the LolitaUK account retweeted it. I sent her a direct message saying, "Hello, are you also in the UK, I'm the designer of this dress, maybe we could hang out together sometime.“ Another reason I wanted to make friend with her is that I saw she also goes to the theatre sometimes to watch plays and stuff, which I also like, so we met for the first time and went to see a play together.
"My Own Time"
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"My Own Time"
S:最后一个问题是,你觉得洛丽塔对你来说意味着什么?
X:意味着我自己最后一段随心所欲的时间。我觉得如果找到工作之后可能 full set 的机会就很少了。穿 Lo 的时候有种完全自己是由自己掌控的那种感觉。我想 穿啥就穿啥,别人看我我就看回去。 还是有一部分也是满足自己奇装异服的心思。每个人都想过做独一无二的人,我 也不例外。
S: The last question is, what do you think Lolita means to you?
X: It means the last part of my own time to do whatever I want. I think after I get a job there will be very few opportunities for me to wear lolita. There's something about wearing Lolita that makes me feel like I'm completely in control. I wore whatever I wanted to wear, and I looked back when people looked at me. There is still a part of me that satisfies my desire to dress differently. Everyone wants to be unique, right?
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Editor_Siting Yao Graphic Designer_Siting Yao Typeset_Nighty&Baskerville Paper_G.F.Smith Colourplan Hotpink&Mohawk Superfine Ultrawhite Eggshell&Mohawk Options 100% PC White Smooth Print&Bind_CSM publications
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