Merlin Griffiths

IN OUR NEW FEATURE, HOSPITALITY HEROES, WE SIT DOWN WITH THE INDUSTRY’S MOST INFLUENTIAL, KEY PLAYERS TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THEIR CRAFT. IN THIS FEATURE DEBUT, WE SPEAK WITH CELEBRITY BARTENDER, MERLIN GRIFFITHS, WHO HAS PARTNERED WITH HARROGATE SPRING WATER AS PART OF THEIR MINDFUL DRINKING CAMPAIGN.

YOU’RE AN INSPIRATIONAL SUCCESS STORY FOR THOSE WHO WORK IN HOSPITALITY. WHERE DID YOU START, AND COULD YOU TELL US ABOUT SOME OF THE CHALLENGES YOU’VE FACED PROFESSIONALLY AND HOW YOU’VE OVERCOME THESE TO GET TO WHERE YOU ARE TODAY?

I started at a bar back in Soho, working in this funky basement dive bar called The Doghouse, in early 1996. It was there I learnt the fundamentals of keeping a clean and orderly bar, and later, how to bartend a small but furiously busy bar. It’s hard to highlight the tough times, such as they were, so I tend to look back on that whole period with rose-tinted glasses. It was the start of the London cocktail boom; bars like LAB, Match and Player were leading the way and there was so much to absorb. Professionally, the toughest times have honestly been the last three years –pandemic struggles as a bar owner, closing one business and preparing another, being diagnosed with stage 3 bowel cancer and all the treatments and operations – yet we’re still here and looking forward to brighter days in the future.

YOU’RE CLEARLY VERY PASSIONATE ABOUT YOUR CRAFT. WHERE DOES THIS PASSION COME FROM AND WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT THE UK’S HOSPITALITY SECTOR?

It was drilled into me very early on, hospitality is a ‘people job.’ It doesn’t matter what you’re serving, or where you’re serving it, it’s how you serve it and by extension, how you can make people feel, that makes it such a fun trade to work in. Yes, I’ll rattle up a drink every now and again, but likewise, I’m just as satisfied pulling some quality cask ale for a regular and shooting the breeze! I suppose the passion comes from enjoying what I do.

ARE THERE ANY CONSUMER DRINKS TRENDS THAT HOSPITALITY OPERATORS SHOULD BE LOOKING TO CAPITALISE ON IN THE SECOND HALF OF THIS YEAR?

This very much depends on the type of establishment you’re running. Obviously, for all venues, no and low ABV serves are of paramount importance. There’s more to life than lime and soda, as I like to say, and with over half of Britons choosing to intersperse alcoholic drinks with alcoholfree alternatives at a social occasion, you can see why.

Other trends I’m hoping to see is the wider adoption of malt-driven bitters instead of super-hoppy casks making a comeback, more mixing with fortified and herbalised wines – think sherries, quinquinas, vermouths, ports – and lastly, more freezers behind bars as I’m a huge fan of a frozen glass.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR COLLABORATION WITH HARROGATE SPRING WATER…

As well as to create a serve for Royal Ascot, we wanted to showcase something easy enough for everyone to make at home. Mindful drinking is now a mainstream term, and more and more people are adopting it. So, a simple long drink with Harrogate Sparkling Spring Water, boosted with flavours of fresh raspberry, ginger and lime. If you wanted to use the recipe in your bar, I’d recommend making the ginger syrup from scratch for extra zing. Use the Hawksmoor recipe, washed and juiced ginger, gently heated with caster sugar, 2:1 sugar to juice for a rich, sticky, and spicy syrup.

WHAT DROVE YOU TO GET INVOLVED WITH THE MINDFUL DRINKING CAMPAIGN, AND HOW CAN HOSPITALITY OPERATORS SUPPORT THIS CAUSE?

Following the success of last year, it was great to be back at Royal Ascot with Harrogate Spring Water and their new and improved Mindful Drinking Bar. I always enjoy showcasing how events like that can be made better when you try something new, like the 0% Royal Raspberry Spritz that we had on the menu all week long. It would be great to see more events adopt ‘no and reduced’ drink options so people can enjoy their day with a bit more balance, and not compromise on a delicious tasting beverage.

Harrogate Spring Water recently conducted research revealing that attitudes towards alcohol appear to have shifted and there’s an increased demand for no and reduced options, especially when it comes to social occasions and events. In fact, twothirds (61%) of adults plan to drink alcohol in moderation by interspersing alcoholic drinks with alcohol-free alternatives. So a 0% cocktail, or simply having some water, is a great way for people to start their mindful drinking journey. I’d recommend trying it at your venue or next event.

FOR ANY BARTENDERS OR MIXOLOGISTS LOOKING TO FOLLOW IN YOUR FOOTSTEPS, WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE THEM?

Work hard, but don’t burn out. Look after your health, avoid temptation. Keep smiling whatever happens. Cultivate a hobby, days off do exist!

I’d like to also share some wisdom imparted to me by Peter Dorelli many years ago… save your tips, and invest in comfortable shoes and a good mattress!

Instagram: @merlinfdc4