Cincinnati Magazine - June 2023 Edition

the Wild

A field guide to our natural world

Into

Ellacor

Ellacor is a “micro-coring” device in which hollow needles are used to remove micro-cores of skin, boosting your collagen and elastin production from within. This helps to improve the appearance of wrinkles and laxity in the cheeks, lower face, and neck without scars. Some may wonder if this is the same as microneedling treatments, however, while microneedling uses small needles to create injury in the skin, micro-coring uses hollow needles to actually “core” out a percentage of skin. This concept is similar to fractional resurfacing lasers where a “fraction” of the skin is treated so that the untreated skin helps to heal the treated.

Halo Laser

Halo is a hybrid fractional laser which means that it combines the wavelengths (and results!) of what would typically be two separate laser treatments into one. This gives patients truly remarkable results including reduced sunspots, clarity, and more. The treatment is highly customizable, allowing us to target your unique skin concerns while allowing safety for a wide variety of skin types and tones.

BBL Hero

Our third new treatment is the “Hero” Broad Band Light (BBL) device, which will allow us to treat large areas of the body at once for skin concerns such as wrinkles, and skin tone. We have offered Intense Pulse

Hero is an exciting addition as it allows us to offer more customizable treatments to more skin types and treat larger areas at one time. In addition, the “Forever Young”

treatment with the BBL Hero gives patients even greater rejuvenation by targeting sun damage and redness like traditional IPL while also helping to build collagen in the skin. The “Forever Clear” acne treatment not only helps with the redness of acne and acne scarring but also helps target the bacteria that causes your acne.

Exosomes

Harnessing the power of stem cells, exosomes pack growth factors, peptides, minerals, amino acids, and vitamins to improve cell-to-cell communication and improve wound healing and more. Their job is to coach unhealthy cells to become healthy again. Studies have shown exosomes to increase elastin levels in the skin by up to 300%! After a treatment that creates injury to the skin, such as microneedling or laser resurfacing, we can apply a serum containing exosomes to boost your results and speed up your skin’s healing. In addition to the face, exosomes can also be used on the scalp to improve and promote hair growth.

This summer, Mona Dermatology will be launching four new non-surgical treatment options at their Kenwood-based practice.

The Ellacor system removes microcores of the skin, boosting natural collagen production.

Ellacor Microcoring Treatment

Treats: Fine lines, wrinkles, acne scarring, loose and sagging skin

Downtime: 6–7 days

BBL Hero Intense Pulsed Light

Treats: Rosacea, spider veins, acne, sun damage, skin tone

Downtime: 1–3 days

Halo Resurfacing

Laser

Treats: Sun wrinkles, acne scarring, texture, uneven tone

Downtime: 4–7 days

Exosomes

Treatment Serum

Treats: hair loss, builds collagen, promotes healing

Downtime: None

“I am always excited about the advances we are making in the field of aesthetic medicine, especially ones that encourage our skin to rejuvenate itself,” shares Dr. Mona Foad. “This spring we are bringing on four new treatments to our practice, two of which are brand new to the Cincinnati area.”

Mona S. Foad, MD, is a boardfounder of Mona Dermatology in Kenwood

P. 54 WRESTLE MANIA

The Northern Wrestling Federation might be the minor leagues compared to WWE, but it’s majorly fun.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY GRANT MOXLEY | TEXT BY DAMIAN DOTTERWEICH

COVER STORY

DOWN TO EARTH P. 34

In the skies, among the trees, and under the surface, Cincinnati’s native species are all around us. Meet the plants and animals (and…rocks?) that make our region an ecological wonder.

A HUNGER TO HELP KIDS P. 50

Joe Burrow and Sam Hubbard launched foundations to serve children in need in Cincinnati and beyond. Every big play and win brings in new donations and spreads hope.

BY JOHN STOWELL

10 / LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

FRONTLINES

17 / DISPATCH

Taylor Swift is the voice of a generation

18 / SPEAK EASY

Robin James remembers 97X WOXY-FM

18 / OUTDOORS

Sunday, Sun-day, Sundae at the Cincinnati Observatory

20 / STYLE COUNSEL

Artist and barista Jakob Schnitker

22 / FIELD GUIDE

Local sneaker shops

24 / ON THE MARKET

A Covington Italianate in Seminary Square

26 / DR. KNOW

Your QC questions answered

COLUMNS

30 / LIVING IN CIN

The ad man and the real musician

BY JAY GILBERT

112 / CINCY OBSCURA

White Water Shaker Village

BY RICK PENDER

DINE

84 / DINING OUT

Jeff Ruby’s, downtown

86 / REVISIT

Arnold’s, downtown

86 / TABLESIDE WITH…

Lori Himmelsbach of The Kentucky Millstone

88 / HIGH SPIRITS

Fifty Fifty Gin Club’s Gin and Tonic #10, Over-theRhine

90 / TAKE 5

Natural wines

94 / DINING GUIDE

Greater Cincinnati restaurants: A selective list ON

I SAW A WILD BALD EAGLE IN CINCINNATI FOR THE FIRST TIME BACK IN DECEMber. OK, it was sitting in a bare tree next to the Kroger parking lot off of Mitchell and Spring Grove avenues, but it was thrilling nonetheless. As I parked my car, I noticed the teenager who collects carts standing with a couple of women, chatting and pointing. I looked around and saw a huge bird just sitting there, doing nothing, but with that signature white head. I said to them, “That’s an eagle, right?” They nodded, transfixed. I broke away after five minutes and went in to do my grocery shopping. When I returned to my car, it was gone.

Not exactly a rousing nature story you might see on the NatGeo channel, but I still think about it six months later. And it’s one personal anecdote confirming a nugget of reporting in this month’s “Down to Earth” stories (page 34): That bald eagles are among nature’s “comeback kids.” Only 417 pairs of bald eagles were believed to exist in the lower 48 U.S. states in 1963, but a 2021 count estimated 71,500 breeding pairs—including in almost every county in Ohio. I can vouch for Hamilton County.

I know many of you live in areas where you see bald eagles, wild turkeys, coyotes, hawks, deer, and maybe even river otters on a regular basis, and some of them have actually become a nuisance. So you likely find it odd that I’m so excited about watching an eagle hang out in the Kroger parking lot. But I’d previously seen a live eagle only in the zoo, so it might as well have been a polar bear.

I think I got excited because it reminded me that nature always finds a way to survive our attempts to pave it over, pull it up by the roots, or dump our waste on it. And that, even in the most overdeveloped urban neighborhoods, like mine, nature is our companion. It feeds us, shades us, pollinates the flowers, controls the pests, and decorates our homes. And it reminds us that we don’t own the world, it owns us.

JOHN FOX EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

GRANT MOXLEY

A childhood fascination with pro wrestling first drew contributing photographer Grant Moxley to the Northern Wrestling Federation. His visits to photograph the wrestlers’ weekend matches started as a passion project, and the months-long endeavor became “Wrestle Mania” (page 54). “The people who put these events together love what they do and want to be a part of the wrestling industry while giving the people of the Cincinnati area something to see,” Moxley says.

JASON COHEN

Contributing writer (and former CM senior editor) Jason Cohen has limited history as a listener of 97X, but he was well aware of Cincinnati’s beloved WOXY while working for his own college radio station, WNUR in Chicago. “I knew it by reputation over the years,” Cohen says. He kept crossing paths with WOXY, most recently when he interviewed popular music philosopher Robin James about her upcoming book for this month’s Speak Easy (page 18).

Working out of Bangalore, India, contributing artist Nirupa Rao bases most of her botanical illustrations on the Western Ghats mountain range, which she describes as a “biodiversity hotspot.” “The plants and animals I looked into while working on the CM cover were completely different,” Rao says.

“We don’t have hummingbirds here, so I had to include one. I also love the ‘helicopter’ winged seeds of the sugar maple and have always had a soft spot for squirrels.”

NIRUPA RAO

THEY STAND READY FOR ANYTHING AT ANY TIME

Emergencies happen without warning. But UC College of Medicine physician-scientists Dr. Gregory Fermann and Dr. Natalie Kreitzer and the entire UC Physicians emergency team are always prepared. Whether treating minor or the most traumatic injuries, enrolling patients in the latest clinical trial, or leading the country on breakthrough treatments for stroke and cardiovascular illness, UC Emergency Medicine delivers. Topranked for research. And ready for you when you need them most.

, right here in Cincinnati.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF John Fox

DESIGN DIRECTOR Brittany Dexter

DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL OPERATIONS

Amanda Boyd Walters

SENIOR EDITOR Aiesha D. Little

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Lauren Fisher

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SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Kane Mitten

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Jim DeBrosse, Kathleen Doane, Jay Gilbert, Lisa Murtha, Laurie Pike, Kevin Schultz, John Stowell, Linda Vaccariello, Jenny Wohlfarth, J. Kevin Wolfe

EDITORIAL INTERNS Maria Almeida, Sheridan Caraway, Jack Tincher

DIGITAL INTERNS Killian Baarlaer, Jon Graf, Emma Helbling

SENIOR ART DIRECTORS Jen Kawanari, Emi Villavicencio

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTORS Carlie Burton, Logan Case, Jessica Dunham

PHOTO CO-OP HATSUE

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Lance Adkins, Wes Battoclette, Aaron M. Conway, Chris Danger, Andrew Doench, Devyn Glista, Chris von Holle, Jeremy Kramer, Ryan Kurtz, Lars Leetaru, Marlene Rounds, Dola Sun, Catie Viox

PRODUCTION

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Champions

READY FOR IT?

Resistance to Taylor Swift is futile these days. We wouldn’t have it any other way.

LAUREN FISHER

THE LAST TIME TAYLOR SWIFT appeared on a Cincinnati stage, Chad Ochocinco played in the Pro Bowl, Lady Gaga was about to wear a meat dress to the VMAs, and American TV viewers were eagerly anticipating season two of Jersey Shore . Swift came to then-U.S. Bank Arena in 2010 to promote Fearless, her second album. Was she popular at that point? Absolutely. But a Taylor Swift concert wasn’t a cultural phenomenon yet.

This time around, expect packed hotels, hellish traffic, and two days of unbridled euphoria when Swift plays sold-out shows June 30 and July 1 at Paycor Stadium. The concert outfits themselves will be weeks, if not months, in the making, and we’re not talking about Swift—although she’ll reportedly cycle through a dizzying 16 outfit changes during a show that spans the breadth of country, pop, indie rock, and everything in between. Her return is something local fans have been anticipating for years. For one weekend, downtown Cincinnati will become TaylorLand.

For the uninitiated, this is no ordinary album promotion tour. This is the Eras extravaganza, the one that nearly broke Ticketmaster; it was so immediately popular that Swift had to schedule 17 additional performances to accommodate the demand. In Atlanta, “Taylor Swift fever” gridlocked the city CONTINUED ON P. 18

for three days in April. In other words, even if you have no plans to attend the shows, brace yourself.

It’s not exactly an easy feat for an artist who’s only in her early 30s to have the song catalog to pull off a three-hour set, let alone refer to the breadth of her musical career in eras. It’s one thing to stay relevant for that long. Skipping across the U.S. on a record-breaking footballstadium-filling tour is another thing entirely.

But why her? What exactly is it about Taylor Swift? Superstars come and go. It’s difficult to put into perspective the magnitude of her impact on a generation in part because there are so few popular performers to compare her to.

For Cincinnati Enquirer reporter and self-proclaimed Swiftie Madeline Mitchell, the lifelong love affair began in elementary school with Swift’s debut album, a kidsized guitar, and an immediate pull to the lyrics’ intense honesty. “Our generation is very nostalgic,” says Mitchell. “I can pinpoint where I was and who I was based on Taylor’s discography.”

Teen girls have always been cultural tastemakers. And no one has captured that market quite like Swift, whose biographical lyrics are meant to be universally relatable. Even if you haven’t lived it, you’ve felt it. Her music isn’t for everyone, but it has a little something for anyone: radio-friendly earworms, folk ballads for the lovelorn, and plenty of pour-your-heart-out-into-your-diary love songs to get you through middle school crushes, breakups, and, if you’re lucky, a first dance at your wedding.

A DECLARATION FOR INDEPENDENTS

Our Taylor Era Taylor Swift performs June 30 and July 1 at Paycor Stadium. The shows are sold out. The Taylor Party: taylorswiftnight.com

When Swift sang about taking a deep breath and walking through the doors on the first day of high school in “Fifteen,” Mitchell was embarking on her own junior high journey. It was like looking in a lyrical mirror. “Her lyrics are so real and intimate,” says Mitchell. “Her vulnerability has a hold on an entire generation. We wish we were that brave. That kind of fearlessness deserves to be championed.”

West Chester native and Miami University grad Robin James recalls the heyday of WOXY radio—the mighty 97.7 FM signal beamed from Oxford, Ohio, to much of Greater Cincinnati—in her new book, The Future of Rock and Roll: 97X and the Fight for True Independence (University of North Carolina Press). She knows why we’re still crazy for a station that went off the air in 2010.

vision and voice that we experienced with WOXY.

You argue that the station still exists via websites, playlists, and a podcast and, most of all, as a community.

You don’t have to be a die-hard fan to understand the magnitude of Swift’s influence. She’s everywhere: on your radio, splashed across your screen. Among my generation, even if you’ve actively avoided her, she’s grown up alongside us, sailing along the straits of our adolescence and into adulthood.

OUTDOORS

Her gravity is so strong that an entire line of Swift concerts exists that are not actual live Swift shows. On August 26, Cincinnati fans will gather at Bogart’s for The Taylor Party, a national DJ tour that assembles Swifties not to bask in the star’s concert-hall presence but to sing, dance, and experience the catharsis that can only come with belting “All Too Well” (the 10-minute version, obviously) in a throng of like-minded strangers.

HERE COMES THE SUN

What’s your most enduring memory of being a young 97X listener? I remember listening with my friend Emily, who lived up the street. There was this song by Meryn Cadell called “The Sweater,” a kind of spoken-word, weird little song about a teenage girl wearing her boyfriend’s sweater. We sang lines from the song to each other, and I think we did a parody version at a talent show.

When did you realize how unique the station was? Probably when I moved to Chicago for grad school in 2000. Chicago is so much bigger than Cincinnati with such a huge music scene, but there wasn’t anything exactly like 97X. They had college radio, but they were more like community radio stations with programming all over the place. There wasn’t the coherence of

Andrew Bottomley, a radio studies scholar, argues that what makes radio radio is this idea of liveness—of being there together in the moment. So if radio is really about a shared experience that listeners have, you can argue that WOXY still exists as a decentralized community radio project today. It brings people together in shared and communal experiences. Independence is only possible if you practice it with and for other people.

The 97X brand returned online over Memorial Day Weekend with a 40th anniversary revival of its Modern Rock 500. What songs would you have included? “The Sweater,” of course. L7’s “Pretend We’re Dead,” another one of those songs my high school friends and I shared. In fact, L7 played Lollapalooza at Riverbend in 1994, my first rock concert. KMFDM’s “Juke Joint Jezebel.” And “Divine Hammer” is the superior Breeders song to “Cannonball.”

—JASON COHEN

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THEBEAUTYOFRUNNINGISTHATITCANBE DONEINAVARIETYOFPLACES,BYPEOPLE OFALLABILITIES,ATDISTANCESBOTHSHORT ANDLONG.THEPROGRAMSAVAILABLE THROUGHFLEETFEETRUNNINGCLUB&FLEET FEETWALKINGCLUBREFLECTTHAT.

TrainoutoffourFleet FeetCincinnatilocations:

BlueAsh,Oakley, 50West,Newport

FALLMARATHON &HALF

MARATHON TRAININGSTARTS

JUNE27, REGISTERTODAY!

Jakob Schnitker

OCCUPATION: Barista at Mom ’n ’em and artist (@ _lo_sant_ on Instagram)

STYLE: Eclectic and secondhand

How would you describe your personal style? It doesn’t really fit into one specific category. I pretty much exclusively thrift all of my clothes. A lot of it is just whatever jumps out at me. It’s not necessarily anything intentional but whatever I gravitate toward. I like to play around with different silhouettes. I’ll do tight clothes one day, super baggy another day. What tends to jump out at you? Definitely primary colors. I love funky patterns and cool textures. The textile is probably the main thing that jumps out to me. Sometimes I’ll see a print that I really love, but the feel of the fabric just isn’t very nice or feels kind of cheap. I like things that feel a little more weighty and substantial. Have you always been interested in fashion? I have three older sisters, so one of my sisters wouldn’t necessarily fully dress me but [had] a heavy influence on my fashion when I was a younger teenager. But moving to the city has helped me feel a little bit more confident to wear weird clothes. I’m from a small town. I dressed different than everyone else already, but since I’ve lived here, I’ve felt a little more freedom to go out-of-the-box a little more. What role does thrifting play in your style? I’ve been thrifting my whole life because my mom would take me and my sisters when we were little kids. I feel like it became more of a passion thing a little bit later on. I started exclusively thrifting probably four, five years ago. Pretty much every piece of clothing I own is secondhand. I don’t think I’ve bought a new piece of clothing other than socks and underwear in the past five years, which is super fun. The thrill of it is you can’t really decide exactly what you want. You just have to wait and find it.

—JACLYN YOUHANA GARVER

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SNEAKER HEADS

in Over-the-Rhine that earned itself a cameo on “Sneaker Shopping with Complex,” inviting host Joe LaPuma and Cincinnati-native streamer IShowSpeed inside its doors. The shop stocks a collection of high-end sneakers like Air Jordan, Nike, and Yeezy, along with brands having their moment, like New Balance. “We’ve got more than 350 different models on our walls, so when you come in, you’ll know you’ll be walking out with something that nobody [else] got,” says Carter.

3. UNHEARDOF

We all have that one place where we feel like a kid in a candy shop. If sneaker stores are that place for you, check these spots out the next time you’re looking to get laced up.

Blacklist Boardshop

prides itself on stocking superior gear to meet the demand of skaters. “We’re pretty picky, but we’re always looking for that next thing,” says owner Joe Hughes. With an inventory of influential brands like Nike SB, DC, and Vans, as well as brands hewing to the skate niche like Polar and Butter Goods, the Walnut Hills shop

has shoes skaters will claim they were rocking long before they were mainstream.

Nick Carter knew a sneaker shop was in the

cards for him when he immigrated to Cincinnati from Vietnam. Carter started selling kicks out of his truck, but he’s since upgraded From the Sidewalk to a brick-and-mortar shop

The UNheardof story starts with shuttered Western Hills skate shop Anonymous Skateboards. Joe Manley was right alongside owner Phil Lipschutz when he pitched the idea to open a lifestyle apparel store. As a strappedfor-cash neighborhood kid who frequented Anonymous for skate gear, Manley was doing odd-job chores to cover part of his purchases, which transitioned into a part-time job he rode into the advent of UNheardof downtown. Along with classic brands like Adidas, customers can shop the exclusive “Made in Cincinnati” collection. “All that stuff’s hand cut and sewn, embroidered in Cincinnati, printed in Cincinnati,” says Manley.

4. SNEAKER TALK

Sneaker Talk is the classic buy-and-sell high-end lifestyle and basketball sneaker shop. Owner Jonatan Garcia saved up for his first pair of LeBron

James Nikes and never looked back. He got his taste for the buy and sell market at the grassroots level, traveling to other cities and states to pick up shoes and using social media to build his brand. “I didn’t really like meeting up with people, so I decided just to do a store because it would be easier. I was getting enough clientele for it,” says Garcia. Now you can catch Garcia at his brick-and-mortar shop in Withamsville where the walls are wreathed with Nike Dunks, Yeezys, and Jordans, along with designer streetwear like VLONE, Bape, Supreme, and in-house Sneaker Talk apparel.

Local designer Josh Salandino launched his brand in 2015, originally focusing on skate apparel and eventually expanding into sports and casual street wear. Shoppers can find J. Salandino Bengals gear—jerseys, jackets, sweatpants—to double down on the local pride. “You can rock a lot of our stuff anywhere you go, which is really what’s helped our brand evolve. You don’t really have to have a certain type of environment,” says Salandino. And it’s only right that the streetwear shop in Newport has the kicks on deck—an extensive collection of Air Jordan and Nike crowds the displays.

1. BLACKLIST BOARDSHOP

2. FROM THE SIDEWALK

5. J. SALANDINO COLLECTION

FIVE BOUTIQUE SHOE STORES THAT CELEBRATE THE BEST OF SKATEBOARDING AND SNEAKER CULTURE.

GOOD TO KNOW UNheardof carries the legacy of Anonymous skate shop in its vibe and product stock. But take a second look at the name and you’ll notice the eponymous nod to the late skate shop.

—KILLIAN BAARLAER

ELEGANCE ENDURES AT THE ASHBROOK

ON A SIZABLE CORNER LOT IN OLD SEMINARY SQUARE, THE ASHBROOK announces itself not just by its stately presence, but by its name, etched into a massive stone sign visible from the street.

The large Italianate was built in 1860 for William Ashbrook, a Kentuckian whose early life reads like something out of a Western. Having taken an interest in his father’s stockyard business as a child, Ashbrook moved to New Orleans to buy and sell cattle before returning to Northern Kentucky, where he was twice elected Kenton County sheriff.

During the Civil War, Ashbrook put down roots in Covington. He spent the rest of his life there in public service, serving on city council, then as waterworks commissioner, before his death in 1882. Eventually, the 5,300-square-foot family home became a lodge meeting place for the Prince Hall Masons, Freemasons of African descent.

Today, the Ashbrook is one of the city’s

residential landmarks, occupying a cushy lot in a neighborhood defined by a stunning concentration of Italianate homes that some claim is among the highest in the country. Recent owners carved out a separate entrance to an attached one-bedroom apartment that’s been used as an Airbnb.

While the new abounds, it’s the old that makes the Ashbrook truly special—and the owners of this century were thoughtful in their preservation work. Ornate molding crowns 12-foot ceilings and, remarkably, all six (count ’em: six!) fireplaces are operable, a detail owners of historic homes can tell you is exceedingly hard to come by. The simple and spacious kitchen is one of the only rooms in the house that has been renovated top to bottom, but even there, the pops of whitewashed wainscotting and wood floors help the space retain that historic charm that makes the home sing.

Building Confidence

Dr. Trisha Volmering brings a teammate mentality to her career in ophthalmology and empowers patients to show up as themselves.

Tmologist at MidWest Eye Center and Allure Aesthet-

ogy, Volmering credits her grit, determination, and consis-

day in her close attention to detail and her dedication to is heard. Volmering acknowledges that showing kindness

concern and treat them individually.

cataracts in their late 50s and vision. Volmering likens the disease to looking through a windis there blurriness of the image, with light coming in at different angles. Usually, cataracts are an exam and mention obstructedsary, and it’s a quick and routinesults. According to Volmering, better vision should not be un-

at your job, or you feel self-conscious having face-to-face interactions, your life is greatly affected. The goal is to -

Schedule an eye exam

Patients who are concerned with doctor about regular screening for eye diseases and goals for their vision. Conbe caught in an eye exam along with other indicators crucial to eye health.

Whenever I read about the history of cosplay (I’m a fan), Cincinnati is mentioned as its birthplace, in 1908. There was a masquerade ball, and the winners were a couple dressed as Martians from a popular comic strip called “Mr. Skygack and Miss Pickles.” Details are sketchy. Is this true? If so, tell me more.

—COSPLAY’S THE THING

was indeed held at Music Hall on December 2, 1908. The winners, Mr. and Mrs. William Fell, greatly resembled two popular newspaper comic characters of the era. Only William, however, was from Mars: He came as Mr. Skygak, the first sciencefiction character in a comic strip. Mrs. Fell was dressed as Diana Dillpickles, from a comic featuring a husband-hunting spinster. Humor was so much funnier then!

In the Doctor’s opinion, your cosplay origin story has left out the most important part: Mr. and Mrs. Fell were on roller skates. Everyone was. Music Hall had only recently opened a roller skating rink in the ballroom, which certainly must have added some lively percussion for the Cincinnati Symphony Orchestra.

By the way, did Mr. Skygak pronounce his name with a hard “g” or a soft “j?” For the answer, Google the word “gif.”

For about two years, an orange “Closed” banner has covered the green Kennedy Avenue exit sign on I-71. I have yet to see any actual work start. Did somebody forget about this? We were promised this exit a long time ago when they closed the Ridge Avenue north ramp. —ANGER RAMPING UP

DEAR ANGER:

The Doctor regularly receives “fix my pothole” submissions. These are normally shuffled off to whichever local television station is currently majoring in minor heroisms. Remember, we are not here to fix the unfixable, but to know the unknowable! And when it comes to the elusive new Kennedy Avenue exit, who really knows?

DEAR THING:

Some readers approve when the Doctor explodes another myth about Cincinnati; others prefer the cuddly comfort of fables. Your story has elements of fact, error, and one glaring omission. A “mask carnival”

The Ridge Avenue north exit ramp on I-71 permanently closed in 2021. Plans are to convert and redirect it to Kennedy Avenue, while also improving the utterly wretched ramp that goes from Kennedy back to the highway. You will be astonished to learn, however, that for the very first time in the history of American highway improvements a project is experiencing construction delays. The original start

Dr. Know is Jay Gilbert, radio personality and advertising prankster. Submit your questions about the city’s peculiarities at drknow@cincinnati magazine.com

date for this was April 2022, with completion in seven months. Now work will start this November and finish after another year.

Those zombie signs that taunt you? They were erected when the whole project started two years ago. Why? Because the other signs had to change then anyway, and having the crew hang signs for everything at once resulted in—big drum roll— saving money! Just think of this epic project as Cincinnati’s “Kennedy Era.”

Your magazine has often written about Cincinnati’s lost concert venues from the 1960s and ’70s: the original Ludlow Garage, the Blue Wisp, Black Dome, etc. Wasn’t there also a place downtown for a short time right next to City Hall? And the city shut it down?

DEAR CRAP:

It’s already hard enough for Boomers to remember whether that memory of loud music behind a hazy cloud was an amazing live concert or their TV with that Wolfman Jack show. Trying to also recall the location could fry even more brain cells. You are correct, however, that an 800seat venue briefly existed right across from City Hall’s Ninth Street entrance (the door with the “Not an Entrance” sign).

Cincinnati Renaissance, it was called. It opened in the summer of 1974 but was gone by summer of ’75. City Council did try to shoo the club away, disapproving of a place that specialized in chaos and pointless noise when, obviously, that was Council’s job. In the club’s short time, the owners did manage to present acts like (close your eyes, kids)

Dave Mason, Pure Prairie League, Chick Corea, Taj Mahal, Weather Report, and several more. Music lives forever; small concert venues rarely do.

BY JAY GILBERT

He’s the Real Thing

PAUL PATTERSON’S MUSICAL RANGE IS STAGGERING AND, FOR ME, SLIGHTLY EMBARRASSING.

I WONDER IF PAUL PATTERSON NOTICES ME SQUIRMING A LITTLE AS WE SIT IN HIS NORTHside kitchen. This interview is my idea, so he isn’t to blame. Still, an uncomfortable refrain is repeating in my head as we talk about the mechanics of music-making. It’s a blurry lyric: Paul is the real thing, na na na, and you are a fraud, ha ha ha. Patterson has made a career of making music, and in his presence I feel like I’ve made a career faking it.

If you’ve enjoyed any type of locally produced music, then you’ve probably enjoyed Paul Patterson. He plays violin in the Cincinnati Symphony and Cincinnati Pops orchestras. He’s a member of the Faux Frenchmen, the mighty jazz quartet that recently celebrated its 20th anniversary. His additional work, on countless stages and

recordings, veers into every music genre imaginable: gospel, bluegrass, swing, pop, children’s records, country, and even Bootsy Collins.

Patterson is a busy guy. He plays an astonishing variety of instruments well. When a local band needs a stand-in or a guest to spice up a gig or recording session, they call him. Everyone knows he’s a sure thing.

Then there’s me. Chances are good you’ve also heard my music in Cincinnati, but not from any stage. I’ve never been in a band or substituted in one, and no way in hell have I ever played in the Cincinnati Symphony. My music has appeared mostly in commercial jingles and satiric parodies. Rarely have I created songs that aren’t about low prices or skewering celebrities.

I did once successfully sneak an actual noncommercial song onto a WEBN Album Project, using a fake name to skirt the station’s rule against employee submissions. The band named Hoodwink was really me, hiding behind session players and singers. And that’s the difference between me and Paul Patterson. He makes music; I hire others to make it for me.

PAUL HAD FORGOTTEN, UNTIL I REMINDed him, that we’d first met some decades ago when I needed help on a jingle. I had just landed my first project with a budget allowing for a string section. Strings?? That means writing down real musical notes, with sharps and flats and dots and all those squiggly things! I was terrified. Luckily I was pointed to a student enrolled at UC’s College-Conservatory of Music, Paul Patterson. He may have forgotten our adventure, but not me. You don’t forget someone who saved your life.

Patterson and I share a childhood memory. We both got struck early by a musical lightning bolt—a sound that made us suddenly widen our eyes and sit up straight, changing us inside, lighting the way to the rest of our lives. For Patterson it was an obscure album by jazz violinist Jean-Luc Ponty, and for me it was a rock and roll song that jumped out of a radio. Both of us had the same reaction: What is this? It’s unlike anything our parents ever play at home or in the car! This is something from another planet, and I want to go there right now, forever!

Patterson has been going there ever

A PERFECT BACKDROP FOR ANY OCCASION

the beauty of nature

For more information or to schedule a tour of our venues, call (513) 831-1711 or email events@cincynature.org.

since, having eagerly turned himself into a willing lightning rod. I evolved into more of a listener and presenter, only dallying in composing and performing.

People like me, who love music at a depth we can’t even express, are in awe of those who can. Patterson absorbs every kind of music, finds secrets inside every note and nuance, and adds them to his toolbox. The freedom he enjoys in his own groups and compositions makes it easier to blend into the formality of a large symphony orchestra and still engage there fully.

Here’s an example of how much Pat-

terson engages. “When I play Beethoven, my heart is full,” he tells me. “Beethoven always asks the most. All these highest things that classical musicians aim for, they’re right there. Even though Beethoven is gone, his muse is alive. It lives outside of time. It existed, exists, will always exist. That’s the thing I connect with. I have a conversation with it. It’s just there all the time.”

Travel a million miles from Beethoven, and there’s Joni Mitchell. “The most influential person for me, of just the highest artistic level, the thing that inspires me the most, is Joni Mitchell,” he says. “The

absolute level of her artistic integrity, if I have her too present in the back of my mind, can make it very difficult for me to record my own stuff.”

Patterson speaks just as reverently of other musicians who live with commitment and passion to their muse. This is a path he tries to walk daily, but that I rarely do: music for the sake of itself and nothing else. Side-by-side lists of our professional projects, divided into columns of music created for its own sake vs. music created for selling beer, would show a massive imbalance. Sure, Patterson has played plenty of sessions for commercials and bad songwriters, but throughout all of those journeys he’s never stopped booking fl ights to that other planet. He goes there as often as he can.

THE YOUNG PAUL PATTERSON LEARNED music two ways: by the book and by the gut. Unlike typical kids who dumped music lessons as soon as possible—hi there!—

PAUL AND I BOTH GOT STRUCK EARLY BY A MUSICAL LIGHTNING BOLT—A SOUND THAT MADE US SUDDENLY WIDEN OUR EYES AND SIT UP STRAIGHT.

he couldn’t get enough. His lessons often jumped from one instrument to another.

Infatuated with the banjo at age 12, Patterson listened over and over to bluegrass records played at half-speed, internalizing the timing and the tone. “That organized my brain and my hands, which improved my violin playing and my piano, guitar, mandolin,” he says. “My composing, too.”

Patterson’s youthful drive to keep learning and improving hasn’t slowed. After a lifetime of practicing banjo, adjusting pick positions, and fi ling his nails just so, he thinks that maybe now, fi nally, he’s getting close to the mountaintop of sounding like Earl Scruggs.

There’s no way to do a reasonable transition from Earl Scruggs to Bootsy Collins but, like Patterson, let’s just suddenly go there. “It’s so cool to work with Bootsy because he knows that even though I’m just this white violinist guy perhaps I have some funkiness in me,” says Patter-

son. “And he says, Don’t play funky for me! Just play! It’ll work! It’s been really good.” Good enough, apparently, for Bootsy to give him a personal shoutout in the middle of one of his songs.

I don’t have enough space here to do justice to Patterson’s incredible output with the Faux Frenchmen, Cincinnati’s beloved “gypsy jazz” quartet. Their lengthy résumé includes playing at my daughter’s wedding. Nor have I mentioned his wife, Sylvia Mitchell, also a member of the Symphony/Pops orchestras. Their romance began in 1978, when Playhouse in the Park accidentally double-booked two Elizabethan strolling violinists for one performance of Romeo and Juliet. Sorry for the cliché, but they’ve made beautiful music together ever since. And a daughter.

I need to bring up someone else, a guy named Irving Berlin. He was the most successful Broadway songwriter in history, despite his near-total lack of musical

training. He knew how to play piano only in F-sharp, the black keys. He used a special piano with a giant lever (“my Buick”) that could shift the entire keyboard left or right. He also had to sing every new melody to a transcriber, because he couldn’t write notation.

Purely on instinct, Berlin gave the world songs like “God Bless America” and “White Christmas.” Would you call him a musician? Or would you sing Paul Patterson is the real thing, na na na, and Irving Berlin is a fraud, ha ha ha?

I’ve seen professional players impressively nail the fi rst take of the most complex charts. But ask them to improvise with an existing track—to simply hear the music and join in—and they’re completely lost. Irving Berlin could easily do it. So could I, even if I couldn’t play that well.

Paul Patterson is comfortable with both. After all, he’s a musician, just like Irving Berlin. And maybe I’m ready to consider that I am, too.

Good Vibes for Your Insides

In the skies, among the trees, and under the surface, Cincinnati’s native species are all around us. Meet the plants and animals (and…rocks?) that make our region an ecological wonder—and the conservationists dedicated to making sure they’re still around for years to come.

by

Killian Baarlaer, Lauren Fisher, Kane Mitten, Sam Rosenstiel, and Carrie Blackmore Smith

photograph by Devyn Glista

KILL YOUR LAWN

Traditional turf lawns are a staple of suburban America. They’re also terrible for the environment—not to mention your bank account. Here are six better options. —L.F.

Moss Phlox

This drought-tolerant groundcover is a surprisingly hardy option that’ll withstand both the weather and the trampling of feet. And for a few weeks each spring, your yard will be transformed into an ocean of lilac flowers, which is something your run-of-the-mill grass could never do. It’s a win-win.

Microclover

Back in the day, before everything non-grass was considered a weed (and promptly obliterated), clover lawns weren’t uncommon. Its tiny grass-like cousin, microclover, is an increasingly popular no-mow lawn alternative that comes in bags, just like grass seed, and thrives in the sun.

Creeping Thyme

It’s been said that creeping thyme thrives on neglect—and that hardiness makes it one of the most low-maintenance options for reluctant gardeners. Like phlox, this herb will bloom for just a few weeks in the spring and summer, filling the space around it with delicate purple flowers that pollinators will adore.

Wild Ginger

A favorite of backyard gardeners, this native perennial is a fantastic groundcover option for lawns with substantial shade. Although its heart-shaped leaves will burn in full sun, wild ginger is a slow and steady grower that will adapt efficiently to areas with acidic, well-draining soil, making it a better fit for shady gardens than full front lawns.

Liriope

The South’s beloved “Monkey Grass” will also do perfectly well in our Ohio Valley, growing thick and lush on even the trickiest slopes. Liriope’s emerald leaves grow up to six inches tall, but get this—you can get away with practically never watering, fertilizing, or mowing it.

Wildflowers

Before you go scattering seeds, you’re going to want to do your research and make sure your seeds are indeed suitable for your homegrown meadow. But so long as you’re mindful of what you’re putting in the ground (and cognizant of those pesky HOA bylaws), wildflower lawns are a gorgeous, low-maintenance haven for pollinators.

GROW YOUR OWN NATIONAL PARK

Ready to participate in the largest cooperative conservation project ever attempted? The Homegrown National Park movement is a collective effort on the part of property owners, land managers, farmers, and “anyone with some soil to plant in” to develop 20 million acres of native plantings, all in our own backyards. homegrownnationalpark.org

Planting for

Agarden simply wouldn’t be a garden without butterflies and bees to help it come alive. But those flower pals are on the decline thanks to a combination of climate change, pesticides, and an ever-growing national preference for row crops (corn, soybeans, etc.) over native plants. Saving the bees may be a tall order, but one local program has gone coast to coast with its mission to create havens for pollinators, one garden at a time. Plant for Pollinators, born out of the Cincinnati Zoo in 2019, encourages homeowners to—you guessed it—plant pollinator-friendly gardens. The program originally set a goal of registering 500 gardens annually. But as of January 2022, the program had registered more than 2,400 gardens as far away as Alaska. To qualify, your garden has to feature native and pollinator plantings that include host plants, which are necessary for butterflies to lay their eggs, and nectar plants, which serve as food for our winged friends. Not sure where to start? Local organizations like the Cincinnati Nature Center periodically host native plant sales and the zoo’s website offers complete and seasonal guides to the best pollinator-friendly plants, from perennials and annuals to trees and shrubs that’ll keep the bees happy.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY (BLACK SWALLOWTAIL) CAROLE HADLEY / (BEE, HUMMINGBIRD MOTH) CINCINNATI ZOO PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY (LAWN ALTERNATIVES) STOCK.ADOBE.COM/ (POLLINATOR GARDEN) CINICNNATI NATURE CENTER

Finding ReLeaf

Since the 1980s, the Cincinnati Parks Foundation has been giving out free shade trees each year to help rebuild the urban canopy and cool off spots hit hardest by a lack of tree cover. Here’s a snapshot of how some of our neighborhoods fare when it comes to beating the heat. —L.F.

Pollinators

A pollinator garden program started by the Cincinnati Zoo’s horticulturists has gone nationwide.

—LAUREN FISHER

Over-theRhine

West Price HillHyde ParkColumbiaTusculum Queensgate

NO GARDEN?

NO PROBLEM.

Never fear, small-space dwellers. You can bring the outside in. —L.F.

Utilize every inch of your balcony

Depending on your space, sun-to-shade ratio, and the plants you want to grow, the apartment balcony can be a blessing or a curse. Don’t be afraid to grow up and out—use vertical or hanging planters to turn your railings, walls, and even the ceilings into small-space container gardens.

Get high-tech with it

Technology has come far enough to let you grow a salad’s worth of lettuce and herbs right on your kitchen island. Countertop hydroponic systems, some of them complete with UV lights and automatic watering, will do the heavy lifting while you sit back, relax, and wait for a harvest.

Use the fire escape

Check local ordinances and laws before you try this one (and make sure you still have a way out in case of, you know, a fire), but so long as you’re OK with climbing out the window to tend your plants, fire escapes can make fantastic urban gardens.

Join a community garden

Extra short on space? Consider joining a community garden, where you’ll find space, resources, and a like-minded group of gardeners. Go to civicgardencenter.org to find a garden in your neighborhood—or to form your own!

SHARE THE LOVE

Sure, you could get your seeds off the internet or from your local hardware store, but what if you could get them from your neighbors? That’s the mission of the LANE Seed Library, a seedsharing program headquartered in the Cincinnati & Hamilton County Public Library, where everyone is welcome to borrow up to 15 packets of seeds each year.

Belted Kingfisher (Megaceryle alcyon)

Here’s one angler you won’t find hanging around the tackle shop, because even the best can’t rival the tinybut-mighty kingfisher. The blue-breasted bird waits perched above the water before divebombing close to the surface to spear prey with its sharp bill.

Great Blue Heron ( Ardea herodias)

The majestic (from the legs up, anyway) oiseau fatale stands in wait along the shallows to snap up fish, frogs, salamanders, turtles, snakes, rodents, other birds, or anything else unlucky enough to meet its gaze.

Monarch Butterfly (Danaus plexippus)

The Ohio River Valley is on the edge of the majestic monarch’s spring and summer breeding grounds, so you’ll find an abundance during the warmer months. When cooler air arrives, you have a better chance of spotting them at the Krohn Conservatory.

Making a Healthy River

When it

With eight member states, the Ohio River Valley Sanitation Commission (ORSANCO) monitors water quality inside the 981mile river. About a dozen technical staff use methods like electrofi shing surveys, fi sh tissue collection to record levels of polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs); tools like gas chromatograph units that alert for volatile organic compounds to check for spills; and 33 monitoring stations along the river and its major tributaries that track chemical levels.

If Cincinnati’s section of the river got a report card, how would we score? ORSANCO Technical Director Jason Heath says our area rates a “B” or “healthy con-

—SAM ROSENSTIEL

dition” overall. The river gets high marks for our drinking water, bacteria levels, and recreation safety, but problem points include the compounds in fish tissue.

“You can still eat the fish that contain PCBs and dioxin, but maybe it’s only one meal a month,” Heath says. Harmful algal blooms, which can sap nutrients from native wildlife, have also become more frequent when the river is low, though Heath says the last notable bloom event was in 2019. What about forever chemicals? ORSANCO monitors those, too, after fi nishing a baseline study last year.

The commission works with the Ohio River Basin Alliance to advocate for more

Asian Carp

Like otters, these invasive fish can be river villains. The carp edge out native species that feed on plankton, and grass carp, which cannot reproduce and are mainly used in private ponds for vegetation control, can also spill into natural waterways and destroy native marine plants. Silver carp have been spotted leaping high above the water—so boaters, beware.

federal dollars to combat pollution and habitat destruction to make the entire waterway a safer place for animals to live and people to use. What can you do for a cleaner river? Check out ORSANCO’s Ohio River Sweep program, which sends supplies to events all along the river for trash cleanup—about 5,000 volunteers pitched in last year.

comes to river health, the Ohio’s muddy surface only tells part of the story.

FLEXING OUR MUSSELS

Meet the garbage crew working below the Ohio River’s waterline. —S.R.

The Ohio River watershed is home to some of the most biodiverse freshwater mussels anywhere outside the Mississippi River watershed. These mussels

Ohio

Also called Kirtland’s snake, this semi-aquatic ophidian lurks around the marshy areas of the Ohio River. They’re harmless as far as we know—in fact, no one has ever recorded receiving a bite from this small snake.

Otters

Otters were once extirpated from the river as a nuisance species—the cuddly-looking creatures wreak havoc on local fisheries and private ponds. About 120 otters were reintroduced to the river in 1986, and their population sits at about 6,500 today. After all, who could stay mad at a face that cute?

Spiny

Distinguished by their flat, rubbery shell and long noses, these amphibians spend most of the day in the sun in search of insects and crayfish to snack on. When threatened, the spiny softshell retreats into the sand, leaving just its head poking up.

Paddlefish (Polyodon spathula)

The long-nosed filter feeders, which typically grow up to 60 pounds and live more than 50 years, use their gill rakers to comb the water for tiny crustaceans and insect larvae. They’ve been on the job since 50 million years before the dinosaurs—overtime, anyone?

are the silent cleanup crew of our main waterway, quietly making meals of silt, sediment, and even pollutants in the Ohio River. Many mussels have been on the job since long before we were born—some live to be more than a century old.

According to the Ohio River Foundation, the Ohio River was once home to 127 out of the nearly 300 freshwater mussel species in North America. Today, 11 of those mussel species are extinct, and 46 are endangered or “species of concern,” including fanshell, clubshell, and snuffbox mussels. The foundation

says this decline is mainly due to human changes to the environment, like damming, dredging, and pollution, as well as the introduction of exotic invasive species like the zebra mussel. But because they live so long and mostly stay in one place, mussels can be a powerful indicator of how the surrounding environment is doing. How’s the Ohio River’s report card? Significant improvements since the Clean Water Act in the ’70s, but the ORF says new challenges include human-made pollutants, runoff, toxic algae, and more invasive species.

Softshell Turtle ( Apalone spinifera)

Valley Water Snake (Clonophis kirtlandii)

American Kestrel (Falco sparverius)

North America’s smallest falcon; typically not much larger than a blue jay. Known for hover hunting, it scans the landscape while remaining in the same airspace as it looks for a target. Numbers are declining in Ohio.

Red-Shouldered Hawk (Buteo lineatus) Identified by white bands on a dark tail, this broad-winged hawk generally prefers wooded, swampy river corridors but has adapted to live inside the Interstate 275 loop in the suburbs and city.

Red-Tailed Hawk (Buteo jamaicensis) Ohio’s most common hawk, adults have a red tail and a white breast. Diets vary, but they favor agricultural areas and have adapted to live near the suburbs.

BIRDS OF PREY

Osprey (Pandion

haliaetus) Almost exclusively a fish eater, therefore usually found near water, where it plunges in, feet first, to snatch up prey. Spiny projections on its talons provide extra grip.

Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus): Has the greatest worldwide range of any bird species. Choice nesting locations are atop skyscrapers, bell towers, and bridges. Distinguished by a black stripe that looks like a mustache below the eyes. Mostly eats other birds.

Perhaps you’ve seen them, perched in a tree or soaring overhead, our region’s raptors— eagles, hawks, and falcons. Good news: Nearly all the species gracing our skies are here in healthy numbers. “Raptors are pretty common, especially the ones that are breeding here,” says Jeff Hays, who has been working with injured raptors for more than 30 years with Milford-based nonprofit RAPTOR Inc.

Recognized for their sharp, curved beaks and talons, these birds eat live prey, including mice, rabbits, fish, reptiles, amphibians, worms, insects, and even other birds. Species with the most diverse diets—and that aren’t too particular about where they live, be it forest, pasture, suburban, or urban setting—are the most common and increasing in number, Hays says.

Their rebound over the last half century is mostly tied to habitat improvements, Hays says. The 1972 federal ban of the insecticide dichlorodiphenyltrichloroethane—DDT—played a big part. It became the go-to bug killer after World War II, but its residue washed into nearby waterways, where it was absorbed by aquatic plants and fish. Fish-eating birds became poisoned by the contaminated prey and died in great numbers, devastating bald eagle populations. (The chemical also interfered with the birds’ ability to produce strong eggshells).

The end of DDT, the passage of the Clean Water Act, and habitat protections afforded by the Endangered Species Act have all benefited raptors. Yet one local species, the American kestrel, is not doing so well. In other parts of North America populations remain steady, but numbers are declining in the Northeast and parts of the Midwest. Scientists aren’t sure why.

As some of our region’s apex predators, raptors are important—they keep rodents, fish, and other species in check. Want to see and learn more about our birds of prey? Stop by one of RAPTOR Inc.’s open houses, held 1–4 p.m. on the last Sunday of each month, March through November.

Ohio’s raptors are making a comeback, thanks in part to one Milford-based nonprofit.

—CARRIE BLACKMORE SMITH

Ohio’s largest bat, weighing about 15 pennies, and the most widespread bat species in America. Hoary bats are solitary migratory tree bats, traveling to warmer climates when it is cold and living in the top of trees.

CREATURES OF THE NIGHT

“Big” is deceptive. They weigh only about 20 grams—roughly the weight of five sugar packets. Ohio’s most common hibernating bat, they’re often the ones found in barns or buildings.

When the sun goes down, the bats come out. But a devastating disease is putting these nocturnal hunters at risk. —C.B.S.

How are our nocturnal neighbors doing? Sadly, not so well. All 11 species of bat in Ohio have undergone population declines in the last few decades. Every species is now protected, listed as endangered, threatened, or as a species of concern, says Ohio Division of Wildlife biologist Eileen Wyza. Little brown bats, Indiana bats, tricolored bats, and northern long-eared bats are struggling the most, Wyza says. Their numbers have dropped a staggering 96 to 99 percent since 2011, when white-nose syndrome was discovered in Ohio.

White-nose syndrome is a disease caused by an invasive fungus that grows on bats’ noses. The fungus, which is believed to have come from Europe, irritates hibernating bats, causing them to wake up more frequently and depleting their energy reserves. Eventually, the bats die from exhaustion and malnutrition.

White-nose syndrome continues to kill bats in the state, Wyza says, but the Division of Wildlife is monitoring and protecting healthy populations. “The good news,” she says, “is we are still seeing all of our bat species in Ohio.”

Despite common misconceptions, not all bats hibernate in caves—half of Ohio’s species are migratory tree bats that travel to warmer temperatures within their territorial ranges when it gets cold in Ohio. Their numbers are down, too, because of a decline in forested habitats and people’s proclivity to remove dead standing trees. Bats are unique and worth keeping around, Wyza says. They’re the second most diverse group of mammals in the world, with about 1,400 species living all over the globe, from polar regions to isolated islands. They also play an essential role in pest control, eating scores of insects and saving the farm industry up to $3 billion a year, Wyza says. Others feed on nectar, acting as pollinators, while fruit-eating bats spread seeds.

Migratory tree bats with a beautiful chestnut color, they are the most abundant bat in America. They often hang from trees by one foot, camouflaging perfectly as dead leaves or pine cones.

Tricolored

) Easily mistaken for large moths and particularly susceptible to white-nose syndrome because of their size. Listed as endangered in the state of Ohio and pending federal endangered status.

Indiana Bat (Myotis sodalis) Listed on the federal Endangered Species Act since 1966, the Indiana bat is a migratory bat that is colonial in winter and summer, hibernating in caves and mines in the winter.

Hoary Bat (Lasiurus cinereus)

Big Brown Bat (Eptesicus fuscus)

Eastern Red Bat (Lasiurus borealis)

Bat (Perimyotis subflavus

Meet Cincinnati’s Eco Champions

During his undergraduate studies, Johnson learned that bats represent nearly a quarter of all mammal species on the planet. He’s been fascinated by them ever since. Twenty years later, Johnson is an ecologist and assistant professor in the School of Information Technology at UC, where he does research using environmental sensors to better understand animal populations, including bats. Whitenose syndrome, an invasive fungus, has decimated several bat species, pushing them toward extinction, but Johnson is leading a number of projects that aim to better understand where bats live. One of those projects involves collecting information from private landowners, public organizations, businesses—anyone who has bats living around them. “We have a considerable number of opportunities to make substantial contributions to wildlife conservation of bats right here in our towns and cities,” Johnson says.

Cheryl Dykstra

Wildliferesearchconsultantandeditor-inchiefof The Journal of Raptor Research

Originally from Grand Rapids, Michigan, Dykstra completed her Ph.D. studies on the impacts of contaminants on bald eagle populations on Lake Superior. For the last 25 years, she’s studied red-shouldered hawks in Cincinnati and the Hocking Hills region. Dykstra and her colleagues were the first to study urban red-shoulders in eastern North America and have learned that city birds are adapting well and reproducing at the same rate as their counterparts in more natural study sites. Dykstra co-edited the book UrbanRaptors:Ecologyand ConservationofBirdsofPreyinCities with Clint Boal, another researcher of urban birds of prey at Texas Tech University. “We designed the book to be a valuable source of knowledge for researchers, wildlife management agencies, urban green space planners, and enthusiastic birdwatchers alike,” she says.

Valerie Pence DirectorofplantresearchattheCincinnati Zoo’sCenterforConservationandResearchof EndangeredWildlife

As it stands, due to habitat loss, climate change, and other factors, 25 percent of the plant biodiversity in our world is in danger of being lost. But some plants can’t be conserved in traditional seed banks. Sometimes, Pence explains, the seeds can’t survive the seed banking process or there may be too few or no seeds to bank. That’s where her team at the Exceptional Plant Signature Project at the Cincinnati Zoo steps in. They develop and utilize technologies that cryopreserve embryos or tissues of the plant, putting them in liquid nitrogen for storage. Her lab has developed protocols for conserving some of the most endangered species in the United States, including local restoration projects of Cumberland sandwort, running buff Kentucky clover in parts of Kentucky. Pence is currently focused on developing methods that improve vation methods for oak trees.

Originally from Cincinnati, West started carrying around a point-and-shoot camera on hikes about 10 years ago. “I was taking photos of everything that moved, including reptiles, amphibians, and birds,” West says. “I became obsessed with learning everything that I could about my subjects.” He was amazed at how many species he had never heard of that could be seen in Cincinnati. Today, West travels around the region (and is a frequent visitor to Spring Grove Cemetery) practicing ethical wildlife photography, obtaining images of his subjects without disturbing them. He works closely with local birds of prey conservation organization RAPTOR, Inc. “Ethical photography can be as simple as not overstaying your welcome, especially at nest sites,” says West, who learns the routines and boundaries of his subjects, capturing close-ups of hawks, songbirds, owls, and other creatures from a distance with a large telephoto lens. He hopes his work raises awareness about the natural world around us and the species that we live alongside. Check out his work at jordanwestphoto graphy.com.

Joseph Johnson Assistantprofessorandresearcheratthe UniversityofCincinnati

Jordan West Independentwildlifephotographerand educator

Whether in the field, in the lab, or behind the camera, these four experts have devoted their lives and work to studying the natural world. —CARRIE BLACKMORE SMITH

The Comeback Kids

These three species—with some help from humans—have beaten the odds. Conservation efforts such as reforestation, habitat protection, and improvements to water quality are paying off big time. —C.B.S.

Bobcat (Lynx rufus) Eradicated from the state by 1850, these solitary, elusive cats began to repopulate the state in the mid-1900s, as forests began to recover. Sightings have been on a swift rise since 2017, with more than 500 in 2020. The most confirmed sightings in our region have occurred in Butler and Hamilton counties. Bobcats have been caught on trail cameras at Fernald Preserve, in Crosby Township, for years.

Wild turkey (Meleagris gallopavo) These birds, which once inhabited the entire state of Ohio, disappeared in 1904, after much of their forested habitat was converted to cropland and because they were hunted for food or sport. Numbers have rebounded and in 2022 there were an estimated 160,000 to 180,000 wild turkeys in the state. Kentucky, meanwhile, has seen its population stabilize after hunters reported a peak harvest of 36,000 wild turkeys in 2010. The state estimates that the total population is anywhere from 250,000 to 400,000—a stunning comeback, considering that in 1978, the population hovered around just 2,000 birds.

FIGHTING FOR THE LITTLE GUYS

Its sheer size, and the fact that it connects to the nearly 65,000-acre Shawnee State Forest, makes it suitable for species that struggle for survival in other parts of the state, where habitats have been destroyed or segmented by human development. More than 100 rare plant and animal species make their home within the preserve system, including endangered species like the Indiana bat, green salamander, and Allegheny woodrat.

Bald eagle (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) In 1963, just 417 pairs of bald eagles were believed to live in the United States, but a series of actions by the U.S. government, including banning the use of the insecticide DDT, passing the Clean Water Act, and creating protections for the birds helped them make a strong recovery. A 2021 count estimated roughly 71,500 breeding pairs now exist in the country. In Ohio, there are reports of nests in almost every county, including Butler, Warren, Clermont, and Hamilton. The Bortz Family Nature Preserve has had a live camera on a nest that has had chicks in it two years running. And in Kentucky, the raptors are doing so well, the state’s department of fish and wildlife has told residents it’s no longer necessary to report sightings.

education, and restoration efforts. The Edge, for instance, has the only known population of Allegheny woodrats remaining in the state and is collaborating with researchers from nearby states to relocate woodrats in hopes of strengthening the gene pool and increasing populations.

About 90 miles east of Cincinnati, the Richard and Lucile Durrell Edge of Appalachia Preserve System is one of the most biologically diverse natural systems in the Midwest, encompassing more than 20,000 acres of rugged woodland, prairie, waterfalls, promontory overlooks, and clear streams in Adams County.

Rich McCarty was born and raised in Adams County and began working at the Edge in the mid’80s. He was hired full-time as a land steward in 1997 and in 2014 became a naturalist working for The Nature Conservancy, which manages the system with its partners at the Cincinnati Museum Center.

It’s always a delicate balance between leaving things alone and stepping in to lend a hand, McCarty says. Conservation efforts include land acquisition,

Some of the work they do is on the forest itself. Much of the Edge was historically an oak-hickory forest, McCarty says, but in some places red maples have taken over and The Nature Conservancy has decided to remove some of them because they support a lower level of biodiversity—particularly when it comes to butterflies, moths, and caterpillars—than an oak-hickory forest. “We continue to be challenged to better understand the systems we’re working in,” McCarty says. “But science confirms that protecting large blocks of forest really makes a difference.”

At the Edge of Appalachia

Preserve, tiny endangered species like the Indiana bat, green salamander, and Allegheny woodrat find space to survive and thrive. —C.B.S.

WANTED DEAD

PURGING THE POISON

Meet a local land trust dedicated to stopping invasive plants in their tracks. —C.B.S.

What difference does it make to remove invasive plants? Get yourself out to a Western Wildlife Corridor preserve and find out. The nonprofit land trust has been parceling together land to create a natural corridor for wildlife in the Ohio River Valley from Mill Creek to the Indiana state line since 1992. Still growing, it has amassed about 300 acres and has been dedicated to removing invasive species since the early 2000s.

“You can protect a place from development by buying it, but it still isn’t a really good place for plants and animals to prosper,” says Tim Sisson, former president and now chairman of the WWC’s Land Stewardship Committee.

Invasive plants, such as honeysuckle, can be so pervasive that they create a monoculture, Sisson says. To combat that, the organization, alongside a small army of volunteers, removes invasive plants, such as lesser celandine—which spreads out like a carpet over a forest floor—and winter creeper, a vine that covers the ground and climbs up trees.

The result: On the WWC’s properties—including Bender Mountain and Kirby Nature Preserve—you can literally see the honeysuckle ending at the property line. In the spring, the preserves burst with color as indigenous wildflowers return.

There’s a battle happening in our natural landscapes and our native species are losing—squeezed out by invasive species carried in by humans on purpose or by accident. Not all nonnative species are harmful, but those that are spread like crazy and disrupt the natural balance of things.

—CARRIE BLACKMORE SMITH

Spotted

state asks anyone who sees one to kill it and report it using Ohio Department of Agriculture procedures. This bug eats and can kill woody and herbaceous plants, including grapes and hops.

Hemlock woolly adelgid ( Adelges tsugae) Has killed millions of hemlock trees in the Appalachian region. Deprives host tree of vital nutrients. Can be treated if caught early. Report any sighting to the state department of natural resources.

Amur honeysuckle (Lonicera maackii) Introduced in New York in 1898 as an ornamental plant, then used widely for wildlife cover and soil erosion control. Spreads wildly, blocking out the sun for native plants.

Bighead carp (Hypophthalmichthys nobilis) Exists in low numbers in the Ohio River basin but feared to decimate fish populations if it reaches Lake Erie. Illegal as wild bait. See one? Report it to your state’s department of natural resources.

Callery pear (Pyrus calleryana): Aggressive spreader known to dominate young and regenerating forests. Illegal to sell, grow, or plant in Ohio. Frowned upon in Kentucky.

lanternfly (Lycorma delicatula) Present in a few counties in Northeastern Ohio. The

...or alive

It’s Jason Neumann’s job to connect people with nature. And as public programs manager at the Cincinnati Nature Center, he takes a holistic approach, trying to always engage visitors’ heads, hearts, hands, and—when they are foraging—stomachs.

“We incorporate natural history, folklore, human history, how a plant ecologically fits into the system,” Neumann says. “But once you understand that there’s food everywhere, it opens up this whole other spectrum of understanding the world.”

Harvesting things safely, effectively, and appropriately requires your full attention, Neumann says, because eating the wrong wild plants can make you ill, or even kill you. Plus, irresponsible foraging

EAT THIS…

Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) The leaves, crowns, stems, and flowers are all edible and have many applications. Most tender and least bitter in the spring.

NOT THAT!

Chickweed (Stellaria media) Highly nutritious mild green that grows in patches. Found in yards and woods. Eaten raw, in a salad, or blended into a smoothie or pesto.

Poison hemlock (Conium maculatum) Easily confused with wild carrot and elderberry, this plant is extremely toxic and kills people every year.

has negative impacts on our natural world, so rule No. 1 is to always put the land first. Never forage for rare plants or overharvest. Leave no trace on the lands you visit and get permission to forage.

Next, personal safety. You must be 100 percent sure you’ve chosen the right plant in the right place, away from roadsides, industrial sites, agricultural fields, and places where dogs use the bathroom. Wash foraged food thoroughly and eat the right parts at the right time of year.

Doing it correctly can produce incredible culinary delights— Neumann told me about his elderberry mojitos, violet jelly, and roasted dandelion root ice cream. But he begs of us, don’t rely on a plant app—not even two. Think instead about joining a foraging group, like the one at the CNC, or studying published, trusted field guides. Start with small amounts of foraged foods, eating just one species at a time, and consider eating invasive plants, like young garlic mustard.

Wild violet (Viola sororia) Grows almost everywhere. Comes up in late winter, early spring. Leaves and blossoms are edible raw, or cooked, and high in vitamin C.

Garlic mustard ( Alliaria petiolata) An herb brought to the United States in the 1800s as an edible that has spread uncontrollably and is now an invasive plant. The young stems are described as tasting like a cross between a garlic scape and a snap pea.

False morels (a term used for several species) Look-alikes to tasty morel mushrooms, but these contain a toxin called monomethylhydrazine, which causes dizziness and vomiting, and in severe cases can lead to death.

Wild black raspberries (Rubus occidentalis) Full of antioxidants. Let the fruit ripen until it is dark purple and slips easily off the stem. Look for them in early summer.

Moonseed (Menispermum canadense) Vine that has round purple fruit that resemble grapes but are poisonous to humans.

Jason Neumann dives fork-first into the bounty of nature—and he can teach you how to do the same. —C.B.S.

FOLLOW THE LEADERS

These local naturalists have taken to social media to share their knowledge with a wider audience. —K.B.

Black Forager

The opportunities for delicious, nutritious, affordable, and sustainable food don’t just come from shelves and pantries—they dwell on our lands. Cincinnati-born

Off the Beaten Path

Exploring Cincinnati’s parks, one nature trail at a time. —KILLIAN

BAARLAER

California Woods

Nature Preserve

Off the windy path of Kellogg Avenue down a discreet, narrow driveway lies California Woods Nature Preserve. Being so close to the river, the terrain seems to roll and rear everywhere you look. We explored the Junction Trail, which, at just over a mile, is the longest trail at the preserve. On a brisk early spring day, you could catch anything from wildflowers blooming out of a blanket of dead leaves to shrubs sprouting leaves of effervescent green. 5400 KelloggAve.,California,(513) 231-8678

Burnet Woods

Burnet Woods, a respite from the crowded and chaotic urban junction of Clifton and The Heights, is an easily navigated network of trails through a hilly forest that we made our way through in about 45 minutes. The park is girdled by busy city streets, and you can easily hear wailing sirens and zooming cars through the trees, but despite the blacktop and rocky paths, the park is an invaluable oasis. 3251

BrooklineAve.,Clifton,(513)

357-2604

Mt. Airy Forest

Mt. Airy Forest is 1,459 acres of wooded serenity that could be explored for days. We started our journey on the Red Oak trail and ended up… well, elsewhere. When presented with a fork in the path, curiosity in this expansive landscape got the better of us—there might be a little too much to see. And although the

trail outlet was nowhere near the starting point, we walked the park road back, enraptured that’s still so much left to see in this little corner of our world. 5083ColerainAve., (513)357-2604

Lindner Park Nature

Preserve at the McCullough Estate

Beyond a quaint white house with black shutters on Cypress Way in Norwood is a 14-acre nature preserve of rolling hills laden with expanses of ground-sprawling wild ginger and bald cypress trees, which the street derives its name from. The McCulloughs once lived here in harmony with nature. It’s easy to find yourself playing pretend amid the beauty and nuggets of the past on the estate, but the boundaries

Alexis Nikole Nelson—also known as Black Forager—is a foraging educator and environmental enthusiast whose Instagram account, which boasts more than 1.2 million followers, teems with

are compact enough to feel at home while your imagination—and feet—run wild. 2726 CypressWay,Norwood,(513) 731-6455

Buttercup Valley

Nature Preserve Lolling inconspicuously at the end of a quiet residential street in Northside is the Buttercup Valley Nature Preserve, a network of trails that meanders over rolling slopes, cutting through the hillsides and over creeks. Fallen trees and snags along the trail’s opening stretch provide beds for fluffy mosses, cave-like underbellies for insects, and perches for birds. It’s a truly breathtaking landscape functioning mightily amid a bustling urban neighborhood. 1558StanfordDr.,Northside, (513)357-2604

glowing videos that teach viewers how to responsibly and safely forage for wild foods. Nelson’s eccentric lectures and creative recipes have catapulted her into the spotlight, with appearances in national publications and even a stint on JimmyKimmelLive! But it’s her love for the natural world and her message of symbiotic living that make this hometown girl a must-follow.

@blackforager

B the Keeper

Brandon Reynolds describes

himself as your friendly neighborhood beekeeper, but he’s transformed a hobby nurturing Earth’s buzzing, flying insects into a business that strives to restore their livability in urbanized areas. B the Keeper is Reynolds’s Cincinnati-based startup that consults with local businesses, residents, and municipalities to develop pollinator gardens, bringing life to neighborhoods with plants that beautify spaces and encourage pollinator populations to flourish @b_thekeeper

LEAVE NO TRACE

Humans have caused an awful lot of disruption to wildlife. Follow the Leave No Trace principles to mitigate damage to surviving ecosystems and responsibly enjoy nature. —K.B.

1. Plan ahead before embarking on your journey. Know what to expect and what you’re capable of. You’ll throw consideration out the window if you get yourself in a pinch.

2. Travel and camp on durable surfaces. This means follow the designated trails, and if you need to deviate to select a campsite or use the bathroom, do so on a surface that has already been disturbed or won’t be scarred by your presence.

3. Dispose of waste properly. This is pretty simple—don’t litter! And for the inevitable bathroom break, latrines and cat holes are your best options.

4. Leave what you find. This allows nature to persist in its cycle and other human visitors to enjoy the rightful experience.

5. Minimize campfire impacts. Portable camp stoves are the most efficient and innocuous method to cook in the wilderness, but if fire is essential, try finding preexisting fire rings. Also, be absolutely sure to fully extinguish it.

6. Respect wildlife. You’re in their home. How would you like it if some bozo walked in your house gawking and causing you to overthink your daily routines?

7. Be considerate of others. No one owns this planet. Relish the beauty of what we have with kindness and compassion.

CLASS IS IN SESSION

Take your eco knowledge to the next level with these classes and guided tours. —K.B.

Women in the Outdoors Series

The three-season series of classes by Great Parks of Hamilton County runs into the fall and covers topics from kayaking to backcountry cooking options. If solidarity is the push you need to jump into the outdoor lifestyle, this could be the perfect program for you. greatparks.org

Garden Tour: Noteworthy Natives

Native plants are the logical foundation of any garden. Since they’ve evolved to thrive here, nature’s maintenance allows gardeners to get creative with designs and features. On June 24, you can visit 11 of Cincinnati’s finest native plant gardens on a tour that spans the city’s east side. cincynature.org

Forest Bathing at Long Branch Farm & Trails

Nature has a way of alleviating stress and grounding your mind, body, and spirit. Long Branch Farm takes the nature walk a step further with forest bathing, a guided, mindful saunter through the woods augmented by exercises meant to stimulate sensory awareness. calendar.cincynature.org

Master Gardener Volunteer

Each Ohio county has an OSU Extension office that serves communities with localized and research-based gardening insights. If you’re passionate about spreading knowledge and your love for plants, you can become a Master Gardener Volunteer certified to answer questions from the public, lead gardening activities, and develop community gardens. (University of Kentucky has a similar program in the Commonwealth.) mastergardener.osu.edu; extension. ca.uky.edu

Make an Impact

Divest Your Savings from Fossil Fuels: Whether you hand-pick your stock options or place all your trust in a financial adviser, you can have a say in where your money goes—and what it supports. With a little bit of research and action, you can divest your retirement savings from companies that are environment offenders.

Participate in a Cleanup: Keep Cincinnati Beautiful has a calendar full of events perfect for getting involved. Even better, you can volunteer to keep up a curb, greenspace, or vacant lot through the organization’s “AdoptA-Spot” program.

Eat Low on the Food Chain: If you’re a lifelong carnivore, we can’t blame you for thinking this one might be a challenge. But even if you’re not about to give up meat entirely, cutting back just a tiny bit can make a huge impact. Studies estimate that you can reduce your carbon footprint by eight pounds every time you cut out meat just once a week.

Don’t Send Chemicals Into Our Waterways: In the house, opt for non-toxic, natural cleaners—and dispose of them appropriately when you’re finished. When it comes to lawn care, steer clear of harsh chemicals that will inevitably make their way into storm runoff, and ultimately, into our major waterways. Same goes for flushing old meds.

Don’t Be an Idle Polluter: Next time you’re waiting in your car, turn that engine off! Idling isn’t just bad for your car—it also produces as much exhaust as a moving vehicle. The rule of thumb is easy: If you’re going to be waiting in one place for more than 10 seconds, turn off your engine.

Keep Your Cats Inside: No matter how sweet and cuddly your kitty is in the house, they’re still a natural-born predator. And according to a study from the American Bird Conservancy, cats (domestic and feral) kill as many as 2.4 billion birds every year. If you can, it’s best to keep your feline friends in the house.

Leave the Leaves: It’s suburban human nature to rake your leaves as they fall in the autumn. But there’s a reason the National Wildlife Federation says that the leaf layer is its own mini ecosystem: Dead leaves are a natural habitat for everything from earthworms to chipmunks. This fall, leave them alone. Pun fully intended.

Small actions—like tweaking your habits— can make big changes to the local environment.

—LAUREN FISHER

Stop, Look Down (and All Around)

You don’t have to see wild animals to know where they’ve been.

—KANE MITTEN

A piece of beaver scat found near the Little Miami River is the object on display in Cincinnati Parks Naturalist Michael George’s office that gets the most comments. It’s something he found by following his advice to all prospective hikers: stop, look down, and all around. “It’s not uncommon to visit a park, walk a trail, and never see any wildlife out there,” George says. “But you’ll know they’re there, because I’ve seen their tracks in the mud, their droppings along the way. I see feeding damage on the plants.” For prospective explorers, George recommends the mobile app iNaturalist, which can scan items in the wild and tell you exactly which creature it came from. Next time you’re out in nature, avoid the tunnel-vision attitude of only focusing on what’s in front of your feet, and take a moment to really examine your surroundings. You never know what you might find.

You’ll typically find snakeskins in the summer months. There’s no regular cycle to snake shedding, but as snakes are feeding, eating, and growing, they outgrow their skin and leave it behind.

1. Exoskeletons can be found in places where an animal has feasted, or even as part of their waste product.

2. Errant feathers occasionally make their way to the forest floor. Depending on the feather, sometimes you can identify not only what bird it’s from, but even what section of the bird’s body it was on.

3. It is not uncommon to find partial deer antlers when hiking the trails in January and February. Male deer grow antlers in the summer and fall to allow female deer to gauge their reproductive health, before shedding them in colder weather.

4. “Some people are put off by animal droppings, but it’s interesting to take a stick and poke through to see what they’ve been eating,” George says. Sometimes you’ll find an exoskeleton. Sometimes it’s fur. You won’t know until you look.

ROCK ON

Bryozoans: These fossils are easily confused for twigs or pieces of coral. Its skeleton is a porous structure that protected thousands of tiny organisms that collected food particles from the ocean.

You might not know it, but Cincinnati is world famous for its rocks and fossils. Scientists have been extensively researching our city for almost 200 years. In fact, “it’s really hard to pick up a rock without a fossil in it here,” says Brenda Hunda, curator of invertebrate paleontology at the Cincinnati Museum Center. Why are so many prehistoric creatures found in the Queen City? The answer lies in the Cincinnati Arch.

Brachiopods: The most likely fossil to be found in your backyard or a local creek bed, this shelled invertebrate resembles a clam.

Crinoids: Also known as “sea lilies,” these animals were related to starfish and urchins. They had long arms that would filter food from the water they lived in.

About 450 million years ago, during the Earth’s Ordovician period, Cincinnati was covered by an ocean and inhabited by aquatic animals without backbones known as invertebrate fauna. Over time, the Earth’s plates shifted to create the Michigan Basin to the northwest, the Illinois Basin to the west, and the Appalachian Basin to the east. In the dead center of all three is the Cincinnati Arch, an uplift in our region that holds several layers of fossil-filled mudstone and limestone. The carved-out Cut in the Hill on I-75, for example, is surrounded by geologic deposits containing fossils. There are also plenty of state parks for fossil fiends to collect in, like Caesar Creek, or places like Trammel Park in Sharonville, which is specifically designated for fossil collecting. Amateur paleontologists who want to take it a step further can join the all-ages local group Dry Dredgers at UC, or head to the Museum Center in September for its new exhibit Ancient Worlds: Hiding in Plain Sight.

Trilobites: “Everybody wants [to find] those, and I don’t blame them,” says Hunda. Trilobites were some of the Earth’s earliest arthropods, and most closely resemble the crabs and lobsters of today.

Hunda says that even though fields like paleontology are focused on the past, artifacts left behind in nature contain important wisdom for modern-day issues like climate change, conservation, and biodiversity. “The Earth has a lot of lessons it needs to teach if we just look, pay attention, watch, and learn,” she says. “I like to think of the Earth as having run every experiment already. We just have to uncover the results.”

Several rock formations at Trammel are named after Cincinnati areas where the fossils were first found, like Corryville or Bellevue. Trammel Park’s pavilion is even in the shape of Cincinnati’s official fossil, the edrioasteroid called Isorophuscincinnatiensis

With a unique geographic location, rich geologic history, and wealth of fossils, Cincinnati has become a darling among paleontologists. —K.M.

PHOTOGRAPH BY JUSTIN SCHAFER / ICON BY EMI VILLAVICENCIO / ILLUSTRATIONS COURTESY BIODIVERSITY HERITAGE LIBRARY

Hubbard PAGE 50

Sam

and

Burrow

launched foundations to serve children in need in Cincinnati and beyond. Big plays and wins bring in new donations—and spread hope.

We all remember the moment.

Ravens quarterback Tyler Huntley desperately leapt in the air on that frigid January night, his hands outstretched to push the ball across the Bengals goal line. With the NFL playoff game tied at 17, Huntley’s hands might as well have held a dagger poised at the heart of our season.

Suddenly, linebacker Logan Wilson greeted the ball with a fist, punching it free and into the waiting arms of Sam Hubbard. He turned and, as an astonished and then delirious crowd sent every startled pigeon in the city skyward, galloped 98 yards to glory. The Bengals would win the game and move on in the postseason for the second season in a row.

The Fumble in the Jungle electrified the city and, along with Joe Burrow’s arm and magic feet, has kept the Bengals faithful confident

in more playoff runs with our boys in stripes. Did you know that Hubbard’s run also helped feed a hungry child? Provided sustenance for a mother at her young daughter’s hospital bedside? Sent a first-grade boy home with a beaming smile and a colorful new backpack?

In a way, every on-field highlight and playoff win impacts the least among us in Cincinnati and the surrounding area because Hubbard and Burrow channel their popularity into raising awareness for their own nonprofit foundations. And those foundations—as well as others set up by more Cincinnati athletes and teams—can make a

huge difference in a region struggling with childhood poverty rates and food insecurity.

Burrow’s emotional and heartfelt Heisman Trophy speech in 2019 highlighted a sad truth about our abundant society: It’s not abundant for everyone. Some children go to bed hungry every night. They struggle in school because their stomachs are empty. Too many face emotional challenges exacerbated by the

GEAUX JOE • Joe Burrow and his parents, Jim and Robin, tackle food insecurity in Cincinnati; southeastern Ohio; and Baton Rouge, Louisiana.

pandemic. It’s a crisis Burrow encountered growing up near Athens, Ohio, and one he devoted 31 seconds to as he accepted college football’s highest honor.

“Coming from southeast Ohio, it’s a very impoverished area,” Burrow told New York’s Downtown Athletic Club and a national television audience.“The poverty rate is almost two times the national average. There are so many people there that don’t have a lot, and I’m up here for all those kids in Athens and Athens County that go home to not a lot of food on the table, hungry after school. You guys can be up here, too.”

The floodgates opened immediately. Will Drabold, a notable fund-raiser and advocate for Appalachia, started a GoFundMe page, and donations to the Athens Food Pantry topped $650,000. A few months later, Burrow established the Joe Burrow Hunger Relief Fund, which has now grown into a full-fledged charitable foundation.

Professional athletes giving back to the cities where they play isn’t new, and Cincinnati has a distinguished list. Boomer Esiason remains a staunch advocate for battling Cystic Fibrosis. Anthony Muñoz’s foundation promotes spiritual leadership and characterbuilding skills. The Ken Anderson Alliance focuses on providing opportunities for adults with disabilities. Barry Larkin’s foundation helps organizations providing recreational services to disadvantaged youths. Sean Casey was active in Big Brothers/Big Sisters as a Reds player and raised Make-a-Wish funds in conjunction with Cincinnati Children’s Hospital Medical Center. Johnny Bench’s foundation

has supported student-athlete college scholarships for 40 years.

Buffalo Bills fans poured nearly half a million dollars into Andy Dalton’s foundation in the days following his last-minute touchdown pass on New Year’s Eve 2017 against the Ravens—a pass that put Buffalo into the NFL playoffs for the first time this century. Within a few days of Bills linebacker Damar Hamlin’s cardiac arrest on the Paycor Stadium field in January, more than 200,000 people donated $8.7 million to his Chasing M’s Foundation, which supports toy and back-to-school drives, as well as camps for disadvantaged children.

Professional athletes can build a powerful platform for charitable organizations. They draw the public’s attention to their cause and direct fans to solutions. They create a connective tissue within the fan base beyond the game. The work helps the athletes, too, investing them in the larger community and allowing them to interact with fans they might see only in the grandstands. And it’s good for the team. Winning is important, but so is the franchise’s image. Fans are more likely to root for a player who spends an afternoon working in a soup kitchen than one who shows up on the police blotter.

The platform is even stronger when the athlete is a star and already has a solid network because

HEAVY LIFTING • Sam Hubbard unloads boxes of food on Thanksgiving day, 2022.

RIBBON CUTTING • Sam Hubbard helps open the first of many Hubbard’s Cupboards in Cincinnati area schools.

Heroes and Villains

Big Boss Anika (who purportedly hails from Russia) taunts the crowd at Bircus Brewing in Ludlow. Fans drink it up as they drink their pints, but fellow female wrestlers Big Mama (leather jacket) and Savannah Sweet are not amused.

The Northern Wrestling Federation is quite literally a “school of hard knocks.” Aspiring pro wrestlers can learn the tricks of the trade during twice-weekly classes in Elmwood Place, then put those

Bare Bones

Aspiring wrestlers start out learning basic holds and maneuvers and how to take a fall without hurting themselves (too much). Not month of classes due to the demanding physical nature of practice sessions.

From Student to Teacher

Roger Ruffen, the owner of the NWF since 1997, began his wrestling career 40 years ago before shifting to refereeing, promoting events, and training other wrestlers.

Roger Ruffen has been running the Northern Wrestling Federation since 1997 along with his wife, Natasia. Trainees pay their dues (and their tuition) at the NWF’s Bonekrushers Training Center in Elmwood Place before getting into the ring at the weekend events. A $100 deposit is all it takes to reserve a slot, and the pay-as-you-go model maxes out at $1,800. Once you’ve hit that mark, you’re welcome to continue taking classes for as long as you’d like. “We train factory workers, people from all facets of life,” usually takes them about a year before they’re match-ready.”

Action and Interaction

At the NWF venues, every seat is close enough to the ring that the wrestlers can clearly hear the fans cheering and jeering. Roger Ruffen estimates that regulars who make nearly every show comprise 50 percent of the crowd.

Grappling With Success

Lord Crewe puts a leg lock on Great King Titan. Crewe is the latest in a long line of NFW performers who have gone on to bigger stages (and better payouts) in national and international pro wrestling organizations.

Slam City

Former champ “Hollywood” Adam Swayze gets the upper hand on Beck Reeves.

The NWF circuit also includes outdoor summer shows at the Elmwood Place training center, where students can get

Women’s champ Ella interacts with fans during a meet-and-greet session at intermission. The mild-mannered annuities department customer service rep by day is a straitjacket-wearing wrestling champ at NWF. “I can’t imagine my life without wrestling,” she says.

Scream Queen

Better TOGETHER

More importantly, it’s who we aspire to be—a place where everyone feels welcome, safe, valued and respected.

We believe that working together, we can improve child health, eliminate heal thcare inequities in our communities, and offer an inclusive environment where employees feel comfortable bringing their whole selves to work.

Championing diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI) and living it out every day is fundamental to who we are at Cincinnati Children’s.

METRO

WHY ARE DIVERSITY, EQUITY, AND INCLUSION IMPORTANT TO YOUR ORGANIZATION? At Metro, we know that diverse businesses are the cornerstone of our community. Our ridership is diverse, our employees are diverse, and our community is diverse. Just as we serve the public by connecting them to jobs and necessities, we hope to connect businesses in the same way. When small and diverse businesses succeed, they create jobs and generate revenue, perpetuating this cycle of success. The effect of purchasing from these businesses extends beyond dollars and contracts; it contributes to economic growth. It comes down to this: this is our way of supporting the community that has supported us.

WHAT SETS YOUR ORGANIZATION APART IN TERMS OF ITS DIVERSITY, EQUITY, AND INCLUSION EFFORTS?

We see our focus of leveling the playing field in contracting as an investment in our community. We know that buying locally and supporting small and diverse businesses contributes to their potential to grow and succeed. We make a concerted effort to level the playing field so that small and diverse businesses have the same opportunities to succeed as established businesses would on every contracting opportunity. We are committed to supporting businesses not only through contracting, but through technical assistance. In short, we focus on the future of these businesses so they can be around a long time.

WHAT ARE YOUR DIVERSITY, EQUITY, AND INCLUSION SUCCESS STORIES? We spent $4.3 million with small and diverse businesses in 2022. That represents a 6,000% increase from 2019 and close to a 400% increase over 2021— approximately 20% of our total contract awards. In just the first quarter of this year, we have awarded over $2 million in contracts to small and diverse businesses. One of those contracts was over $1 million!

We held a very successful vendor fair last fall. Multiple local companies were on hand. We plan to have trainings at the end of each quarter on topics such as proposal writing and how to get certified with the City of Cincinnati. Finally, we will partner with the U.S. Small Business Administration at a July event where you can meet our buyers and network.

“Metro is committed to increasing opportunity and economic growth for the entire region, and an important part of that is ensuring small and disadvantaged businesses have a chance to provide the many goods and services we purchase. I am very proud of our diversity spending and look forward to its continued increase.”

—DARRYL HALEY, CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER AND GENERAL MANAGER

Metro is planning a year’s worth of events to make it easier than ever to grow your business with us:

Quarterly training sessions featuring how to respond to proposals, how to get opportunities and more.

“Meet and Greet with a Sweet Treat” ice cream social in September so you can get to

and learn more about how to do business with us.

The second-annual Business Expo Vendor Fair in November with special guests, prizes, networking opportunities and more!

CHAMPIONS OF DIVERSITY & INCLUSION

CINCINNATI MUSEUM CENTER

WHY ARE DIVERSITY, EQUITY, AND INCLUSION IMPORTANT TO YOUR ORGANIZATION? Through local, regional, and natural history; applied science; and learning through play, Cincinnati Museum Center inspires every person to learn more about the world around them and explore their place in it. By sharing stories of diverse voices and perspectives, the Cincinnati Museum Center ensures every person can see themselves in the museum. By bringing the community together around shared experiences and moments of discovery, the museum builds connection points around which the community can gather. Across three museums and through out-of-this-world films and blockbuster exhibitions, Cincinnati Museum Center helps every person find a world in which they can learn, play, and thrive, together.

CHAMPIONS OF DIVERSITY & INCLUSION

CINCINNATI STATE

WHY ARE DIVERSITY, EQUITY, AND INCLUSION IMPORTANT TO YOUR ORGANIZATION? Cincinnati State has one of the most diverse student populations in our region. The result is a wonderful mix of different ages, ethnicities, countries of origin, and even types of schooling, including home schooled students and veterans with knowledge gained through their service. We honor diversity and the richness it adds to the student experience, not only in classrooms. And that is a great plus for our community and for employers. Our co-op students and graduates are instrumental in creating a diverse and highly skilled regional workforce—in health care, advanced manufacturing, business, aviation maintenance, information technology, culinary, and other essential industries. Many students also go on to earn further degrees at universities. The possibilities for students at Cincinnati State, like our student body itself, are diverse, and without limits.

Cincinnati State 3520 Central Pkwy., Cincinnati, OH 45223, (513) 861-7700, www.cincinnatistate.edu

Ayrriel foundthesupportandresourcessheneededtocomplete herdegree.CincinnatiStateservesourcommunitywithintegrity, honoringdiversity,anddeliveringqualitythrough:

•13:1studenttofacultyratio

•Lowtuitionandfinancialaidsuchasgrants, scholarships,work-study,andloans

•130degreesandcertificates

FIFTH THIRD BANK

COMPANY NAME GOES HERE

WHAT SETS YOUR ORGANIZATION APART IN TERMS OF ITS DIVERSITY, EQUITY, AND INCLUSION EFFORTS? At Fifth Third, we celebrate our diversity and talents. The sum of our individual strengths is what powers us forward—together as ONE. This unified strength is grounded in the passion of each employee. We want employees to feel connected to their colleagues, leadership, customers, a strong supplier base, and communities as we make a difference in the lives of others.

Building and sustaining our culture is important, and it takes the commitment of everyone. A sense of belonging is essential in serving our customers, delivering peak performance, building an engaging workplace and supporting a vibrant community.

Stand With Pride

We're proud to stand with the LGBTQ+ community not only during Pride Month, but always. We believe by embracing our unique identities, we create communities that empower everyone to reach their full potential.

Fifth Third Bank

38 Fountain Square Plaza, Cincinnati, OH 45202 (866) 671-5353, www.53.com

GE AEROSPACE

WHAT SETS YOUR ORGANIZATION APART IN TERMS OF ITS DIVERSITY, EQUITY, AND INCLUSION EFFORTS? At GE Aerospace, we are committed to creating an inclusive and equitable environment that embraces and promotes diversity to ensure our employees feel valued, respected, accepted, and that they belong. For over 30 years, GE’s Employee Resource Groups (ERGs) have added value to our colleagues and business by helping to engage and develop the diverse talent needed to build a world that works. One of the ways we activate our communities is through the GE Foundation’s Next Engineers program, a global college-readiness program focused on increasing the diversity of young people in engineering and inspiring the next generation of innovators.

“Building diverse and inclusive communities makes us all stronger. This work never ends, but we are excited about the journey ahead.” –Germaine Hunter, Chief Diversity Officer at GE Aerospace

NATIONAL UNDERGROUND RAILROAD FREEDOM CENTER

WHAT SETS YOUR ORGANIZATION APART IN TERMS OF ITS DIVERSITY, EQUITY, AND INCLUSION EFFORTS? The National Underground Railroad Freedom Center is a bridge between the past and present, where the lessons of the Underground Railroad inform the continuing fight for inclusive freedom today. By sharing lessons of the past, we can equip people with the knowledge to make a difference. The Freedom Center explores and reframes America’s history through the lens of the African American perspective, a story that originated in 1619, followed by centuries-long forced disadvantage under a national economic system based on chattel enslavement. Today, we continue that exploration, uplifting the voices of the modern-day social justice movements that aim to eradicate systemic racism and bring about racial equity.

The path to racial equity started with the Underground Railroad. Their stories inspire our ongoing journey.

National Underground Railroad Freedom Center 50 E. Freedom Way, Cincinnati, OH 45202 (513) 333-7500, www.freedomcenter.org

freedomcenter.org

PRYSMIAN GROUP NORTH AMERICA

WHY ARE DIVERSITY, EQUITY, AND INCLUSION IMPORTANT TO YOUR ORGANIZATION? Prysmian Group is an innovative worldwide leader in cable technology, and to stay the worldwide leader, we are committed to the development and growth of our organization and the people in the organization. To do this, we fully appreciate and utilize the global knowledge and expertise of all our people. We recognize the importance of diversity, equity, and inclusion at all levels, and we are committed to empowering all people to pursue and grow their careers with Prysmian. Prysmian promises to develop inclusive work environments centered on valuing and respecting people for their diverse genders, cultures, origins, nationalities, ethnicities, religions or abilities, consistent with its presence across five diverse continents.

YMCA OF GREATER CINCINNATI

The YMCA is more than fitness centers and swimming pools. It is a movement committed to strengthening individuals and communities. Each year the Y provides over $1 million locally in financial assistance for summer camps, swim lessons, and membership. Find your passion, whether it is through youth development, healthy living, or social responsibility. Find your Y today!

Together, the YMCA works to ensure that everyone— regardless of ability, age, cultural background, ethnicity, faith, gender identity, ideology, income, national origin, race, or sexual orientation—is treated equitably. We do this by building inclusive and joyful environments where all people can reach goals, make friends, and connect to a cause greater than themselves.

Find belonging Find your Y

SCHEDULE OF EVENTS

SATURDAY, JUNE 10, 2023

COUNTRYSIDE DRIVING TOUR

DEPARTING AT 1:00 PM

MARIEMONT SQUARE

6900 WOOSTER PIKE

CINCINNATI, OH 45227

Join us for a fun and scenic driving tour traveling from Mariemont Square with an intermediate stop to enjoy light refreshments. All car lovers and vehicles are welcome to participate! Staging, registration and an informal car show will begin at noon.

TICKETS $50 AT WWW.OHIOCONCOURS.COM

HANGAR PARTY

5:00–9:00 PM

EXECUTIVE JET MANAGEMENT

HANGAR AT LUNKEN AIRPORT

4556 AIRPORT ROAD

CINCINNATI, OH 45226

Join us for this ultimate car enthusiast event at Cincinnati landmark Lunken Airport. Enjoy cocktails and gourmet dinner by the bite while you peruse a one-of-a-kind display of exotic cars, motorcycles, and private jets. You won’t want to miss this great party in a great setting to help raise funds for a great cause! Casual attire.

TICKETS $150 AT WWW.OHIOCONCOURS.COM

GET YOUR TICKETS NOW!

SCAN THE QR CODE WITH YOUR PHONE, OR VISIT OUR WEBSITE AT WWW.OHIOCONCOURS.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY GARY KESSLER OF KESSLER PHOTOGRAPHY

PHOTOGRAPH BY GARY KESSLER OF KESSLER PHOTOGRAPHY

SCHEDULE OF EVENTS

SUNDAY, JUNE 11, 2023

45TH CONCOURS D’ELEGANCE, PRESENTED BY EXAIR, FEATURING 75 YEARS OF PORSCHE

SPONSORED BY PORSCHE OF THE VILLAGE

10:00 AM–4:00 PM

AULT PARK

3600 OBSERVATORY AVENUE

CINCINNATI, OH 45208

Join our world class celebration of motorsport excellence featuring more than 200 cars and motorcycles in the historic gardens of Ault Park. Along with featured Porsches, enjoy special displays showcasing the 70th Anniversary of the iconic Corvette and the 85th Anniversary of the VW Beetle. Also on display will be thirteen classes of classic, vintage and exotic cars and motorcycles. Guests can also enjoy fine art, craft beverages, vendors and concessions.

TICKETS $30 IN ADVANCE THROUGH MAY 28, 2023 AT WWW.OHIOCONCOURS.COM OR $35 THE DAY OF THE SHOW

STUDENT TICKETS $15 WITH SCHOOL ID, CHILDREN 12 AND UNDER FREE

BRUNCH AT THE PAVILION

10:30 AM–2:00 PM

AULT PARK PAVILION

Enjoy a premier catered event featuring cocktails and gourmet breakfast and lunch items to savor under the elegant pavilion. Guests will have the opportunity to choose from three seating times.

TICKETS $60 AT WWW.OHIOCONCOURS.COM

WILL SHERMAN AUTOMOTIVE ART SHOW

10:00 AM–4:00 PM

Don’t miss the compelling work of nationally renowned automotive fine artists. Artwork will be available to both view and purchase.

ART SHOW INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION TO THE CONCOURS D’ELEGANCE

CRAFT BEER GARDEN AT THE PAVILION

10:00 AM–3:00 PM

Enjoy some of Cincinnati’s finest craft beers at a vantage point high above the field in the relaxing shade of the beautiful canopy of Ault Park.

CRAFT BEERS AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE

AWARDS CEREMONY

2:00 PM

Don’t miss the excitement of the drive-through Awards ceremony starting at 2:00 PM. Best of Show Trophies and class and specialty awards will be presented to outstanding vehicles, some of which you won’t see anywhere else!

MASTER OF CEREMONIES: ED LUCAS

AWARDS SHOW INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION TO THE CONCOURS D’ELEGANCE

PHOTOGRAPH BY MARC FIGGINSPHOTOGRAPH BY GARY KESSLER OF KESSLER PHOTOGRAPHY

PHOTOGRAPH BY GARY KESSLER OF KESSLER PHOTOGRAPHY

PARKING LOCATION

Fifth Third BankOperations Center at Duck Creek Road and Eastwood Drive, near I-71 Exit 9. Free remote parking and shuttle to Ault Park.

2023 SPONSORS

he’s originally from here. Both Burrow and Hubbard have that hometown (or home region) advantage, and have no qualms about leveraging it. They’ve chosen similar, but not identical, paths for their foundations, aiming to address a problem that’s especially acute here in Cincinnati.

CINCINNATI

IS USUALLY RATED AMONG

the worst major U.S. cities for childhood poverty, says Trisha Rayner, chief development officer and vice president of external affairs at the Freestore Foodbank. “Our food insecurity rate in Hamilton County is 12.8 percent,” she notes, “but it went over 20 percent during the pandemic. That’s well above the national average.”

Food insecurity is defined quite simply as not knowing where your next meal is coming from. And it’s likely to get worse. In March, emergency COVID food assistance benefits ended for thousands of residents. Many saw their monthly Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP) benefit fall by as much as 75 percent just as food prices spiked. Food pantries have been swamped and, Rayner says, many are seeking help for the first time.

Many of those victims of hunger are kids, which Burrow witnessed in his own high school classrooms, says his mom, Robin. “Going to school in Athens provided Joe with friends from all different backgrounds, so he saw food insecurities firsthand,” she says. Robin has experienced the problem up close as well—she’s retiring this year as a long-time educator, most recently as a school principal. She says she often brought stories to the family dinner table of struggling students hampered both physically and mentally by a lack of nutrition.

Even though Hubbard grew up in Montgomery, his parents and his high school made sure he was exposed to those less fortunate and became motivated to help. He tutored at Corryville Catholic Elementary School, participated in food drives, and regularly volunteered in soup

kitchens at holiday time with his family. “We were always aware we were just fortunate but also that there were a lot of people who had needs,” says Hubbard.

He credits his alma mater, Moeller High School, and the Marianist philosophy with further developing his awareness and his commitment to service. He was captain of the Crusaders squad that won two state football titles and elected to stay close to his roots, sponsoring a youth football camp on Moeller’s Montgomery Road campus each summer since 2019.

As the pandemic worsened, Hubbard recalls reading a news account about the Freestore Foodbank pantry running low on supplies.“My dad said there are a lot of issues in the world, but something that unites everyone and brings people together is the basic right to food and hygiene,” he recalls.“So we rallied around that and realized, after doing some research, how many people we could help.”

Hubbard had already worked with the Freestore on a Taste of the NFL charity event he hosted his rookie season with the Bengals and was impressed with the staff ’s dedication. Using social media, he helped fill the pantry’s coffers and has since become a reliable and enthusiastic partner. His annual fowling event in Pleasant Ridge is one of the area’s more popular fund-raisers and the first large one he hosted after officially incorporating the Sam Hubbard Foundation.

Where his war on hunger is laser-focused on the tri-state, Burrow’s similar crusade fights on three fronts: Cincinnati; Appalachian southeast Ohio; and Baton Rouge, Louisiana, where he led LSU to the NCAA college football championship and earned his Heisman. Burrow’s foundation also focuses on mental health, and his mother is quick to connect the two energy-sapping issues.

“Think about showing up to work every Monday and not having eaten all weekend,” says Robin, noting that’s what happens to many kids who come to school hungry.“It sets them up for failure. It may take until Tuesday or Wednesday for the nutrients to get these kids back up to speed. That’s two or three days of being behind.”

And that’s when kids are in school. What about when they aren’t?

Mary Beth Knight, who heads up the food insecurity nonprofit My Why, credits the Joe Burrow Foundation with a Hail Mary pass that took the hunger pangs out of this year’s spring break. A perfect storm was brewing:

Food prices were sky high, SNAP was ending, and the Freestore was closing for a week as it moved its Tennessee Avenue warehouse to River Road. Thousands of kids were heading home for a week of spring break, many with little food there.

My Why is focused on nutritional support for grade school students from low-income families on the west side, downtown, and in Avondale. Knight, a retired teacher, for years saw the toll food insecurity had on young kids, many of whom relied on free lunches for nutrition. Spring break’s combination of challenges, she knew, would roil many stomachs.

So she reached out to the Burrow Foundation for help. She’d been thinking about the young quarterback ever since his Heisman speech, which she said brought her to tears. She had a feeling, she says, that Burrow would make a difference—not just on the field, but in fighting hunger.“He was going to be a hero,” she says.

Amy Floyd, the foundation’s executive director, mobilized sponsors like Kroger and Kroger Health to action, and Knight worked with Bloc Ministries in Price Hill to assemble volunteers. They packed 38,000 oranges and thousands of oatmeal packets, CLIF bars, applesauce containers, and fresh fruit into backpacks for nearly 8,000 kids. “It was amazing,” says Knight. “It was just five days from the time I spoke with Amy on the phone to when kids received their backpacks and food. The kids were happy for the food, but honestly I think they were even happier to get a free Joe Burrow backpack.”

RIGHT BEFORE THE BENGALS’ 2022 SUPER Bowl appearance, Betsy Wilson, director of development at Crayons to Computers, had an idea. The education nonprofit wanted to establish spaces in local schools where teachers could access free school supplies for underprivileged students, which would alleviate the burden of teachers having to travel to C2C’s Bond Hill warehouse after a long work day.

A pair of board members suggested that Hubbard might be a good spokesman for the new effort. It took just one phone call to the foundation’s executive director, Matt Kittell, Wilson recalls, and a meeting was set up. By then, she’d thought of what to call the new closets: Hubbard’s Cupboards.

The Hubbard’s Cupboard at South Elementary School in Mt. Healthy is a modest

room behind a light wood door just past the main entrance. Inside are shelves and boxes of snacks, school supplies, and hygiene products that teachers can access for their students, almost all of whom are likely living below the poverty line.

“Thirty percent of Mt. Healthy’s students are in foster care,”says Amy Cheney, president and CEO of Crayons to Computers (C2C).“They may only have the clothes you can see on the outside. They may not even have underwear or socks because they’ve been removed suddenly from a bad situation.” So, she says, hygiene products can be just as important as food.

Charles Ogdan, executive director of human resources for the school district, says generational poverty in Mt. Healthy has been augmented by a flurry of recent immigrants as well as Cincinnati residents displaced by gentrification. As the low-income student population soared and hunger issues became apparent, the school board decided to move the

universe, and he wouldn’t leave that gym until he’d posed for every picture and talked to every kid there,” says Cheney.

She says that C2C will expand Hubbard’s Cupboards to 13 more locations next school year, while Hubbard is using part of his offseason to meet with business leaders around the area to solicit support. “It’s important for me to be directly involved,” he says.“My name is on this, and I don’t want to give the wrong impression that my involvement is false advertising. I want to show that we’re using the funds in the right way, which means I work directly on this project.”

His mom is involved, too. Amy Hubbard, a nurse at UC Medical Center, personally monitors and stocks several of Hubbard’s Cupboards, and Mt. Healthy school administrators marvel at her energy.“Yeah, she’s a rock star,”says Hubbard with a wide grin. “She and my dad taught us all how to be good humans.”

The concept is also making an impact at UC

be two sets of applications this year, and the Burrows hope they’ll become a regular feature of the foundation’s work.

The Burrow team has also worked with La Soupe, donating $50,000 toward food rescue kitchens, purchasing Christmas presents for children of military members, and even repairing a boiler that allowed a food pantry to open. “There are so many great organizations doing wonderful things,” says Robin.“It’s important that we support people doing this work.”

That goes for philanthropic work not just here in Cincinnati but also in eastern Ohio and in Baton Rouge.“We want to help fill in the gaps that have not been addressed, and that takes time, so we’ll be strategic in our planning,” she says. “People have been so supportive of Joe’s journey at all stages of his life, so it’s important to us that we give back to those communities that meant so much.”

Philanthropy can be contagious. The Freestore’s Rayner lauds Hubbard for being an advocate in the locker room, bringing other Bengals and even team management to events. Her eyes light up as she talks about a cold and rainy December morning when Hubbard was accompanied by several players and Executive Vice President Katie Blackburn at a holiday food giveaway at Paycor Stadium. “They all stood out in the rain and loaded boxes into trunks and talked to everyone there,” she says.“It was a very special day.”

entire district to a free and subsidized breakfast and lunch plan.“You know, when you’re hungry you’re not learning,” says Ogdan.“You’re tired and listless. We knew the status quo wasn’t working. It doesn’t work to say to a kid, I know you’re hungry, deal with it.”

Hubbard himself visited Mt. Healthy’s junior-senior high school in October to officially open the first of four Cupboards, and Ogdan remembers the stir it caused. He shakes his head, lamenting that he had to miss it; he was waist-deep in a trench with contractors who were digging around the school’s foundation, he explains. Hubbard delivered a motivational speech that had students cheering. A DJ hired by the Bengals blasted music, and the Bengals star stayed long after he christened his Cupboard to chat with students and sign autographs.

He did the same thing later in Bellevue, where he packed the school gym with a Bengals pep rally and free ice cream before delivering 650 new backpacks to kids at an elementary school.“Sam is the most humble person in the

Health, where the Hubbard Foundation donated $10,000 and pledged annual support to the “Food Is Medicine” program, which allocates resources to needy families.

As a school principal in Athens, Robin Burrow has seen the impact the pandemic had on children’s mental health—putting them behind in school, tearing them away from their friends, and digging the hole of poverty even deeper. In its first months of existence, the Burrow Foundation has covered nearly $100,000 in hospital bills for families whose children are struggling with mental health, even footing the entire bill for a family whose child ended his own life. She says it’s an important aspect of the foundation’s charter to “do good.”

That’s what the latest project launched in January is called: The Do Good Grant. The name comes from a remark Joe Burrow gave in an interview after he won the Heisman. Grants of up to $50,000 will be awarded to applicants who propose projects addressing food insecurity and mental health protection. There will

Back to another special day, when the Fumble in the Jungle put the Bengals ahead to stay against Baltimore, and Matt Kittell’s phone began buzzing with text messages before the game ended. The Hubbard Foundation executive director was in a suite at Paycor Stadium—actually sitting with Amy Floyd, executive director of Burrow’s foundation—and was still processing Hubbard’s epic scamper when pledges started coming in. And they kept coming. To his phone, to his e-mail, to the foundation’s e-mail.

When the dust cleared, Kittell says, a delirious city had pumped $82,958.12 into the foundation’s coffers. Many were $94 donations, representing Hubbard’s jersey number. Some were $98 to represent his fumble return. Some were a modest $9.40. Others, mostly from local companies, were five-figure donations.

Every one of those dollars went to work the next day, feeding the hungry and healing the heart, while Hubbard and Burrow prepared for another playoff game.

“THERE ARE SO MANY GREAT ORGANIZATIONS DOING WONDERFUL THINGS,” SAYS ROBIN BURROW. “IT’S IMPORTANT THAT WE SUPPORT PEOPLE DOING THIS WORK.”

CENTRAL OHIO RIVER VALLEY

16TH ANNUAL LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

AVAILABLE NOW AND IN THIS ISSUE OF CINCINNATI MAGAZINE

A MOST BEAUTIFUL GUIDE TO WHERE AND WHEN TO FIND LOCAL FOOD IN THE REGION

D NE

GLITZY DOWNTOWN STEAKHOUSE P. 84 ARTISAN BAKER Q&A P. 86

OVER-THE-RHINE GIN JOINT P. 88 NATURAL WINES P. 90

SECURE THE BAG

The Ruby Vuitton dessert from Jeff Ruby’s—which pays homage to Louis Vuitton’s signature monogram purse—is made of lemon mousse and champagne citrus cake, with a berry reduction and a milk chocolate passionfruit ganache.

PRIME LOCATION

At its new Fountain Square home, JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE takes glitz to the next level.

—BRANDON WUSKE

IF THERE’S A HARDER RESERVATION TO SNAG IN THIS TOWN, I’VE YET TO SEE IT. MOST OF the prime dinner slots at Jeff Ruby’s need to be booked out weeks in advance, or at least they did when we dined there in the spring. My dining companions and I had to settle for a 10:30 dinner on a gloomy Friday night. And even at that witching hour, the place was packed. The buzz is no mystery: When Jeff Ruby Culinary Entertainment (now led by Ruby’s daughter, Britney Ruby Miller) closed its iconic Walnut Street restaurant to move into the Foundry building on Fountain Square, we all expected the Ruby brand to deliver something grander than it ever has before. And in every sense, it has.

It’s hard to figure out what to focus on as you walk in off of Vine Street. There’s the prominent raw bar, the massive chandelier, and the sprawling, U-shaped bar with a stage behind it, where a band plays to a packed house. Eventually, out of the corner of your eye, you’ll catch the portrait of Ruby himself, smiling, à la Mona Lisa, from behind a wisp of cigar smoke. In any other restaurant, such a portrait would seem ridiculous. Here, in the newly built palace for local restaurant royalty, it’s only fitting.

Most impressive of all is the main dining area, decked out in Art Deco style like the dining room of some Jazz Age ocean liner. In keeping with that Roaring Twenties theme, the more private “Gatsby Room”—modeled after Baz Luhrmann’s movie—lies just off the main dining room. A hundred years later, I don’t know that anyone would describe these Twenties as “roaring,” but at Jeff Ruby’s, the roar is nearly deafening. Sitting amid it all, in a spacious red booth, I felt transported. Mostly, I felt hungry. I’d never craved a ruby-red steak more in my life.

The menu itself will be familiar to anyone who has eaten at a Jeff Ruby restaurant before. But as

FYI

Jeff Ruby’s 505 Vine St., downtown, (513) 784-1200, jeffruby. com/cincinnati

Hours

Dinner Mon–Thurs 5–10 p.m., Fri 5–11 p.m., Sat 4:30–11 p.m., & Sun 4–9 p.m.

Prices

$9 (Boardwalk Fries)–$265 (1.2 lb. Australian Wagyu Ribeye Cap)

Credit Cards

All major

The Takeaway

Classic Jeff Ruby’s menu, with a few additions, in its sleekest space yet.

our server was quick to point out, there are some additions that are unique to the new downtown location. The expanded Wagyu program features cuts like Japanese Kobe Strip and the Australian Wagyu Ribeye Cap, which weighs in at a whopping 1.2 pounds. While these cuts can be outside of some diners’ budgets, I did try the Wagyu Meatball appetizer: a softball-sized m eatball served over white cheddar grits and covered in a robust red sauce. It’s highly recommended for anyone who wants a little Wagyu tenderness without the triple-digit price tag.

Call me old-fashioned, but I think every steakhouse should have a good Caesar at the ready, and Jeff Ruby’s delivers. What really set it off was the crisp of parmesan, which added a delightful textural contrast. I recommend adding the optional anchovies; unlike the lesser varieties that give the fine fish a bad name, these aren’t overly salty, which lets the fish’s natural oiliness shine through.

Speaking of fish, the new downtown location also features an expanded sushi program under the direction of Sushi Chef Jinho Jung. Sushi has become a fixture on steakhouse menus in recent years, but here, as with so many of the other dishes, the quality stands out. My otoro (fatty, marbled blue fin tuna belly) had the tenderness one seeks from a Jeff Ruby’s steak.

Of course, Jeff Ruby’s bread and butter has always been that butter-soft steak, and it’s still the highlight of Executive Chef Dylan Jones’s menu. I opted for the Petit Filet Mignon, an 8-ounce center cut cooked perfectly rare and liberally peppered. The steak was so tender I could nearly cut it with the edge of my fork; my steak knife slid right through it.

My slightly less carnivorous friend ordered the salmon which, while slightly dry, also had a good peppery finish. The accompanying fingerling potatoes, dusted with sea salt, were tasty, though the best potato dish of the night was undoubtedly my side of tater tots. Thick cubes of golden-brown tots (so large that the name almost seems ironic) are served with shaved parmesan, chives, and truffle aioli—for that decadent zing that I never knew tater tots needed. Seriously, it’s hard to go back to mere ketchup now. These salty, savory tots are only available at this location, though I would love to see them spread across the Jeff Ruby empire.

To wash all this down, the wines (referred to as “Occasions”) are not only broken down by region, but by river bank. You can order Bordeaux from the left or right bank of the Gironde Estuary. My “occasion” of choice was a mellow Oberon cabernet from good old Napa Valley: a fine companion to my petit filet.

Despite the late hour and massive meal, one can’t eat at Jeff Ruby’s without at least looking at a dessert menu. Pastry Chef Halle Weber’s menu, like the space itself, has been glitzified to the hilt. You may have seen some of the more famous concoctions on Instagram: the citrus cake the shape and size of a Louis Vuitton handbag (Ruby Vuitton) or the chocolate cake resembling a certain legendary sneaker (Air Ruby). Alas, my friends and I had nowhere near the appetite to take on an entire Shaq-sized shoe and would have felt bad just nibbling at the laces.

Instead, we opted for the much more humble butter pie à la mode. Rich, warm, and covered in powdered sugar, it was the perfect comedown from our carnivorous high. It was also a comforting reminder that for all the excess, Jeff Ruby’s still gets the basics right. No wonder it’s so hard to get a table.

FOOD FIT FOR A KING (From left) Interior shot of one of Jeff Ruby’s dining rooms; the large blue fin tuna flight comes with dipping sauces, Japanese vegetables, grated wasabi, toasted nori, and sushi rice; the Cowboy Steak is 22 ounces of bone-in rib eye; Executive Chef Dylan Jones.

Tried and True

AS THE OLDEST CONTINUOUSLY OPERATED BAR IN THE CITY, ARNOLD’S BAR AND GRILL has a reputation to uphold. Here, the classics stand the test of time while sharing the menu with newer, more innovative items.

Take the Cincy Poutine, for instance. If Grippo’s-seasoned fries, goetta gravy, cheese curds, green onions, and a sunny-side-up egg sounds strange, imagine a breakfast bowl over hashbrowns, and you have the general concept. Crispy, creamy, and crunchy, it’s a treat full of texture and Cincinnati staples. The heaping serving of breakfast-turned-pub grub is a big meal for one or a hefty appetizer for three. Kayla Robison’s influence on the menu will be missed—she recently stepped down as the restaurant’s executive chef—but we’re sure her impact will carry on.

Arnold’s menu is a multiple-choice test with correct answers only. The burgers, chicken, and cauliflower steak all shine, but if you want a classic Arnold’s experience, you have to try the spaghetti and meatballs. A generous serving of spaghetti noodles sit under delicate red sauce and shredded Romano cheese. Two massive meatballs perch on top, seasoned with garlic and spices to accent the entire meal. Prepare to use your knife, because these gourmet monstrosities defy attacks with just the side of a fork. A large spoon comes in the bowl for twirling, too. This comfort meal can fill your belly and a to-go box, and remains one of the city’s best.

—M. LEIGH HOOD

What’s your earliest memory of baking? I was quite young, being in the kitchen with mom and her teaching me how to properly measure flour and how to fold in egg whites. We were never allowed to sit while cooking and you could never taste the batter. (I tasted the batter anyway!)

Your restaurant is a continuation of sorts, right? My parents ran The Kentucky Millstone in Falmouth, Kentucky, in the late ’80s. I remember fondly working back in the kitchen, and the hustle and bustle of service. It was a very different time—when going out to eat was special.

Why did you want to follow in their footsteps? I loved everything about the restaurant industry and a few years later, went to chef school.

Why did you start teaching cooking classes? I’ve been teaching cooking for a very long time. I was blessed to have a mother who taught me how to cook and bake. I love being able to pass that on to others. Even if you’re a pro in the kitchen, there’s always something to learn. I still take classes. I was in Chicago last year for a chocolate class and New York for a baking class. Even if I take away one tidbit that will make me a better baker, it’s worth it.

THE OWNER OF THE KENTUCKY Millstone serves up baked goods at the Covington and Ft. Thomas farmers’ markets this summer.

Arnold’s Bar and Grill, 210 E. Eighth St., downtown, (513) 421-6234, arnoldsbarandgrill.com

Win & Tonic

This bar corners the market on Italy’s favorite spirit.

GIN LOVERS REJOICE: FIFTY FIFTY Gin Club is the late-night hangout you’ve been looking for. Named for its signature cocktail of 50 percent gin, 50 percent vermouth, and for local TV trailblazer Ruth Lyons—who invented daytime talk shows with her series The 50/50 Club on WLWT-TV—this bar is a dimly-lit delight. Sure, it does share owners and a building with Homemakers Bar. But while that bar has a comfortable, open, airy vibe, this one is much more intimate: just 22 seats, a record player blasting old school jazz and R&B, 80 different gins for your perusal, and the glow of red neon lights. There are a lot of drinks you could say are “fun” at Fifty Fifty, like the Cereal Milk Punch, which has gin, mezcal, champagne, grapefruit, whey, and Honey Nut Cheerios in it with coffee meletti on the side, or the Clover Club, which mixes lemon and raspberries with an egg white and London dry gin. However, the real excellence at Fifty Fifty is how its bartenders execute simple twists on basic gin cocktails. Unique spins on martinis, Tom Collins, negronis, aviations, and gin fizzes abound here, but the Gin and Tonic #10 is the highlight. Served in a gargantuan glass that’s probably bigger than both your hands with St. George Terroir gin, Indian tonic, cinnamon, Peychaud’s bitters, lemon, orange, and olives, you’ll be wondering why every bar doesn’t treat its basic cocktails with this level of detail.

—KANE MITTEN

Fifty Fifty Gin Club, 35 E. 13th St., Over-theRhine, fiftyfiftyginclub.com

Try these Ohio wineries

Hanover Winery

Located in Ohio’s SW corner between Hamilton and Miami U. Oxford. International award-winning wines handcrafted on site. Live music & food, Beer & Bourbon. Enjoy outdoor seating with scenic views and beautiful sunsets.

Hanover Winery Festival

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Visit our website & FB for upcoming events.

2165 Morman Rd. Hamilton, OH 45013 (513) 863-3119

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Heineman’s Winery

Heineman Winery, now in its 5th generation is Ohio’s oldest familyowned winery. Take a ferry trip to Putin-Bay and enjoy a bottle of wine and a cheese plate in our beautiful wine garden. We are also home to Crystal Cave, the world’s largest Celestite geode! Tours daily, early May-end of September. Call the winery for more details.

978 Catawba Avenue

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Vinoklet Winery & Restaurant

Vinoklet Winery is perched atop picturesque rolling hills. A glassedenclosed solarium and spacious gazebo provide a panoramic view of the surrounding vineyards. A unique atmosphere for wedding ceremonies, receptions, rehearsal dinners, family parties, banquets, and corporate events. Please check the website for hours and events.

11069 Colerain Ave. Cincinnati, OH 45252 (513) 385-9309

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one-room brick schoolhouse. winery.

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Olde

STRIPPED DOWN

WINES MADE WITH MINIMAL INTERVENTION EXPRESS THEIR TERROIR (where they are grown), and because they’re created without any additives during the fermentation process, no two vintages are exactly the same. Warmer weather means it’s time for more light chillable reds, oranges, and rosés, so it’s your chance to indulge in some of the au naturel wines available around the Queen City.

1 Two Shepherds’s Wiley CarbonicCarignan This wine is made through carbonic maceration—before they’re crushed, whole grapes are fermented in a carbon dioxide-richenvironment. The end result is a fruitier wine with hints of black cherry and dark plum. Available at Oakley Wines, 4011 Allston St., Oakley, (513) 914-5735, oakleywines.com

2 Valley Vineyards’s HoneyMead While mead technically isn’t a wine (it’s made with fermented honey, not grapes), it’s too good to pass up. It’s sweeter than most with a delicate blend of honey and clover for a crème brûlée finish. Nectar of the gods, indeed. Available at Valley Vineyards, 2276 US-22 &, OH-3, Morrow, (513) 899-2485, valleyvineyards.com

3 Laherte Freres’s Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs ChampagneNV From the world-famous Champagne region of France, this wine is a blast of summer. Notes of citrus, apple, and dried mango mix with preserved ginger for a full-bodied finish. Available at Hart & Cru, 1206 Broadway St., Pendleton, (513) 725-7525, hartandcru.com

4 Fruitblood’s Venus Flytrap This pet-nat—an abbreviation of the French phrase “pétillant naturel” (“naturally sparking”)—is summer in a glass with its papaya, strawberry, and melon flavors. This spring, Fruitblood announced statewide distribution in Ohio, which means you might be able to order it in local bars soon. fruitblood.com

5 Ruth Lewandowski’s Feints A rosé wine from Mendocino, California, Feints is crammed with red berry flavors (raspberry, cranberry, cherry) due to its co-fermentation process—it’s made up of several red and white grape varieties. Berry nice. Available at Iris Read, 733 E. McMillan St., Walnut Hills, (513) 493-2270, irisread.wine

— AIESHA D. LITTLE

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AMERICAN COZY’S CAFÉ & PUB

On a visit to England, Jan Collins discovered the “cozy” atmosphere of London restaurants built in historic houses. She brought that warm, comfortable feeling back to the United States in opening Cozy’s. Though the atmosphere in the restaurant is reminiscent of Collins’s London travels, the food remains proudly American. The produce in virtually every dish is fresh, seasonal, and flavorful. The braised short rib stands out with its cheesy grits and haystack onions along with a portion of tender meat. And when it comes down to the classics, from the biscuits that open the meal to carrot cake at the end, Cozy’s does it right.

6440 Cincinnati Dayton Rd., Liberty Twp., (513) 644-9365, cozyscafeandpub.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$$

GREYHOUND TAVERN

Back in the streetcar days, this roughly 100-yearold roadhouse was at the end of the Dixie Highway line, where the cars turned around to head north. The place was called the Dixie Tea Room then, and they served ice cream. The fried chicken came along in the 1930s, and they’re still dishing it up today. Families and regulars alike pile in on Mondays and Tuesdays for the fried chicken dinner. While the juicy (never greasy) chicken with its lightly seasoned, crisp coating is the star, the side dishes—homemade biscuits, cole slaw, green beans, mashed potatoes, and gravy—will make you ask for seconds. Call ahead no matter what night you choose: There’s bound to be a crowd. Not in the mood for chicken? Choose from steaks, seafood, sandwiches, and comfort food options that include meatloaf and a Kentucky Hot Brown. Or just try the onion rings. You’ll wonder where onions that big come from.

2500 Dixie Highway, Ft. Mitchell, (859) 3313767, greyhoundtavern.com. Lunch and dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

IVORY HOUSE

DINING GUIDE

CINCINNATI MAGAZINE’S dining guide is compiled by our editors as a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a restaurant listing.

The editors may add or delete restaurants based on their judgment. Because of space limitations, all

BOOTSY’S BLEND

How does Bootsy Collins like his cup of joe? Maybe his new Bootzilla Blend Coffee will provide some hints. Made from three types of beans from Latin America, the coffee is described as an “orangey chocolate with hints of walnut and light florals dominates in three parts milk.”

A 12-ounce bag (regular or decaf) is $19.99 and comes in whole bean or ground.

concerts.cafe/ product/bootsy-collinsbootzilla-blend-coffee

of the guide’s restaurants may not be included. Many restaurants have changing seasonal menus; dishes listed here are examples of the type of cuisine available and may not be on the menu when you visit.

To update listings, e-mail: cmletters@cincinnati magazine.com

things to make the results unusually good. The Wagyu is served in cheeseburger form, but the exceptional tomme from Urban Stead gives it that extra something. The cocktails are things you’ve probably seen before, but everything—from the Death Valley Old Fashioned to the Queen City’s Bees Knees—had an extra dash of liveliness from a house-made element, like a rhubarb honey syrup or the raspberry shrub. Even when an ingredient seems out of left field, like the burnt grapefruit hot sauce on the Hamachi, it never tastes as unusual as it sounds. The hot sauce is just a hint of sweet citrusy spice that melts into the grits—a softly intriguing element rather than a slap in the face. Ivory House also has an excellent brunch.

2998 Harrison Ave., Westwood, (513) 3890175, ivoryhousecincy.com. Dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $$$

QUATMAN CAFÉ

The quintessential neighborhood dive, Quatman’s sits in the shadow of the Our Lady of the Holy Spirit Center, serving up a classic bar burger. Look elsewhere if you like your burger with exotic toppings: This half-pound of grilled beef is served with lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickle. Sometimes cheese. The no-frills theme is straightforward and appealing. A menu of standard sandwich fare and smooth mock turtle soup; beer on tap or soda in cans (no wine or liquor); and checkered tablecloths, serving baskets, and plenty of kitsch is served daily. Peppered with regulars, families, and political discussions, Quatman’s is far from fancy. But it is fun, fast, and delicious.

2434 Quatman Ave., Norwood, (513) 731-4370, quatmancafe.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MC, V, DS, MCC. $

SYMPHONY HOTEL & RESTAURANT

rainbow trout, grass-fed strip steak, and a veggie burger hit all the right notes, and you can end with a sweet flourish if you choose the strawberry lavender shortcake.

210 W. 14th St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 7213353, symphonyhotel.com. Dinner Fri & Sat. $$

TANO BISTRO

This Loveland bistro is comfortable, with reasonably priced food and amenable service. The menu is tidy—25 or so dishes divided between appetizers, salads, and entrées, plus two or three specials—its flavor profile partially influenced by a childhood growing up in a third generation Italian family. Most of Tano Bistro’s main courses lean toward the comfortable side of American. For instance, Williams serves a stuffed salmon and an allegiance pork chop. The sprout & snout appetizer is also worth a trip to Loveland, combining balsamic-drizzled brussels sprouts with sliced pork belly.

204 W. Loveland Ave., Loveland, (513) 6838266, foodbytano.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$$

TELA

BAR + KITCHEN

Classically conceived but casually executed comfort food, including a royale with cheese, mac and cheese topped with a Mr. Pibb–braised pulled short rib, and steak frites with garlic aioli. Servers are slightly scattered, yet enthusiastic and friendly, with a good grasp of the beverage program.

1212 Springfield Pke., Wyoming, (513) 8218352, telabarandkitchen.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

TRIO

Top10

The menu here generally doesn’t reinvent dishes or introduce outlandish flavors, but simply pays attention to enough little

Tucked into a West 14th Street Italianate directly around the corner from Music Hall, this place feels like a private dinner club. There’s a preferred by-reservation policy. Check the web site for the weekend’s five-course menu, a slate of “new American” dishes that changes monthly. You can see the reliance on local produce in the Greek lemon chicken soup. Salads are interesting without being busy, and the lemon lavender sorbet is served as the third course palate cleanser with the five-course menu. Main courses of pan-seared

Trio is nothing if not a crowd pleaser. Whether you’re in the mood for a California-style pizza or filet mignon (with roasted red potatoes, sauteed spinach, crispy onions, and a red wine demi glace), the menu is broad enough to offer something for everyone. It may lack a cohesive point of view, but with the number of regulars who come in seven nights a week, variety is Trio’s ace in the hole. A simple Margherita pizza with roma tomatoes, basil, Parmesan, and mozzarella delivered a fine balance of crunchy crust, soft cheese, and sweet, roasted tomatoes. Paired with a glass of pinot noir, it made a perfect light

meal. The service is friendly enough for a casual neighborhood joint but comes with white tablecloth attentiveness and knowledge. Combine that with the consistency in the kitchen, and Trio is a safe bet.

7565 Kenwood Rd., Kenwood, (513) 984-1905, triobistro.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC. $$

THE WILDFLOWER CAFÉ

Wildflower Café is not the sort of place that tries to wow anyone with feats of inventiveness. Its formula is simple but satisfying: lots of mostly local meat and produce, a menu that continuously changes with available ingredients, a nice selection of wine and beer, and well-made, homey food. The small, focused menu has a classic American quality (salads, steaks, burgers) with enough surprises to keep things interesting. Many of the dishes are designed with open spaces to be filled with whatever is available in the kitchen that day, an advantage of an unfussy style. You don’t go to Wildflower expecting a certain kind of perfection; you accept that your favorite dish from last time might be made differently tonight, or no longer available. Like the farmhouse that Wildflower occupies, the imperfections are part of the charm.

207 E. Main St., Mason, (513) 492-7514, wildflowermason.com. Dinner Mon–Fri. MCC. $$$

YORK STREET CAFÉ

Five blocks from the Newport riverfront, Terry and Betsy Cunningham have created the sort of comfortable, welcoming environment that encourages steady customers. A dependable menu and quirky atmosphere appeal to a broad range of diners, from non-adventurous visiting

relatives to non-attentive children. Desserts have always been one of the stars: flourless chocolate hazelnut torte, bittersweet, rich and moist; butter rum pudding that would be equally at home on a picnic table or a finely dressed Michelin-starred table.

738 York St., Newport, (859) 261-9675, yorkstonline. com. Lunch Tues–Fri. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

BARBECUE

BEE’S BARBEQUE

You’ll want to get to Bee’s Barbecue in Madisonville early if you want to avoid the line of friendly regulars. The restaurant’s smoker churns out a variety of meats—including brisket, pulled pork, ribs, turkey breast, and two kinds of sausage—so it’s easy to see why they keep coming back. If you enjoy the spicy grease that oozes out of a good chorizo, you’ll love the Cincinnati Hot Link, which tastes like the delicious love child of a chorizo and a hot mett. Word to the wise: Bee’s opens at 11 a.m. and closes when they run out of meat. Understandably, this doesn’t take long.

5910 Chandler St., Madisonville, (513) 561-2337, beesbarbecue.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $

ELI’S

BBQ

Elias Leisring started building his pulled pork reputation under canopies at Findlay Market and Fountain Square in 2011. Leisring’s proper little ’cue shack along the river serves up ribs that are speaking-in-tongues good, some of the zazziest jalapeño cheese grits north of the MasonDixon line, and browned mashed potatoes that would make any short order cook diner-proud. The small no-frills restaurant—packed cheek-by-jowl most nights—feels like it’s been there a lifetime, with customers dropping vinyl on the turntable, dogs romping in the side yard, and picnic tables

crowded with diners. The hooch is bring-your-own, and the barbecue is bona fide.

3313 Riverside Dr., East End, (513) 533-1957, elisbarbeque.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

SINNERS & SAINTS TAVERN

You won’t leave this Texas smokehouse/sports bar hungry. From the brisket—served with Texas BBQ sauce, white bread, and pickles, or on toasted sourdough—to the chicken thighs, you can’t go wrong with these richly smoked flavors. Several dishes, like the Korean style pork belly, the pulled pork naan tacos, and Bigos stew, draw on global influences, while the sides take flavors back to the country (try the creamy coleslaw, the house-made mac and cheese, and chili-spiced cornbread). The restaurant’s character shines through its decor, which includes hanging hockey memorabilia, pictures of public figures and tables made from real NBA courts.

2062 Riverside Dr., East End, (513) 281-4355, sinsaintsmoke.com. Lunch Sat & Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

WALT’S HITCHING POST

A Northern Kentucky institution returns. Roughly 750 pounds of ribs per week are pit-fired in a small building in front of the restaurant, with a smaller dedicated smoker out back for brisket and chicken. Walt’s ribs begin with several hours in the smokehouse and then are quickseared at the time of service. This hybrid method takes advantage of the leaner nature of the baby-back ribs they prefer to use. Each rib had a just-right tooth to it where soft flesh peeled away from the bone. One hidden treasure: Walt’s house-made tomato and garlic dressing. Slightly thicker than a vinaigrette yet unwilling to overwhelm a plate of greens, the two key elements play well together.

3300 Madison Pke., Ft. Wright, (859) 360-2222, waltshitchingpost.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$

CAJUN/ CARIBBEAN

BREWRIVER CREOLE

More than 800 miles from New Orleans, this may be as close as you can get to the real deal here in your own backyard. The menu fully leans into Chef Michael Shields’s penchant for cuisine from the Crescent City. His six years of training under NOLA’s own Emeril Lagasse comes through in a scratch kitchen menu that spans a range of the city’s classics. The enormous shrimp and oyster po’ boys—the former protein fried in a light and crispy beer batter and the latter in a hearty cornmeal breading—are served on fluff y French bread loaves and dressed with lightly spicy rémoulades. The jambalaya packs all the heat of a late summer day in the French Quarter without masking a hint of its satisfying flavors. Paired with a Sazerac and nightly live jazz, you may just feel tempted to start a second line.

4632 Eastern Ave., Linwood, (513) 861-2484, brewrivercreolekitchen.com. Dinner Tues–Sun, brunch and lunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $

SWAMPWATER GRILL

At first blush, this place is a dive where homesick Cajuns can find a good pile of jambalaya. But thoughtful details like draft Abita Root Beer and char-grilled Gulf Coast oysters on the half shell signal its ambition. Bayou standards like jambalaya, gumbo, and fried seafood also make an appearance. But the extensive menu also features amped up pub-style items for those who may be squeamish about crawfish tails (which can be added to just about anything on the menu). You’ll also find a roundup of oyster, shrimp, catfish, and alligator Po’Boys, as well as a selection of hardwood-smoked meats.

3742 Kellogg Ave., East End, (513) 834-7067,

swampwatergrill.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun, brunch Sat & Sun. V, MC, DS, AMEX. $$

KNOTTY PINE ON THE BAYOU

The Pine serves some of the best Louisiana home-style food you’ll find this far north of New Orleans. Taste the fried catfish filets with their peppery crust, or the garlic sauteed shrimp with smoky greens on the side, and you’ll understand why it’s called soul food. Between March and June, it’s crawfish season. Get them boiled and heaped high on a platter or in a superb crawfish etouffee. But the rockin’ gumbo—a thick, murky brew of andouille sausage, chicken, and vegetables—serves the best roundhouse punch all year round. As soon as you inhale the bouquet and take that first bite, you realize why Cajun style food is considered a high art form and a serious pleasure. And you’ll start planning your return trip.

6302 Licking Pke., Cold Spring, (859) 781-2200, theknottypineonthebayou.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

CHINESE

AMERASIA

A sense of energetic fun defines this tiny Chinese spot with a robust beer list. The glossy paper menu depicts Master Chef Rich Chu as a “Kung Food” master fighting the evil fast-food villain with dishes like “fly rice,” “Brocco-Lee,” and “Big Bird’s Nest.” Freshness rules. Pot stickers, dumplings, and wontons are hand shaped. The Dragon’s Breath wontons will invade your dreams. Seasoned ground pork, onion, and cilantro meatballs are wrapped in egg dough, wok simmered, and topped with thick, spicy red pepper sauce and fresh cilantro. Noodles are clearly Chef Chu’s specialty, with zonxon (a tangle of thin noodles, finely chopped pork, and

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mushrooms cloaked in spicy dark sauce and crowned with peanuts and cilantro) and Matt Chu’s Special (shaved rice noodle, fried chicken, and seasonal vegetables in gingery white sauce) topping the menu’s flavor charts.

521 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 261-6121 , amerasia. carry-out.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Sat. MCC. $

CHINESE IMPERIAL INN

The chilies-on-steroids cooking here will have you mopping beads of garlic-laced sweat from your brow. The musky, firecracker-red Mongolian chicken stabilizes somewhere just before nirvana exhaustion, and aggressively pungent shredded pork with dried bean curd leaves your eyes gloriously glistening from its spicy hot scarlet oil. Even an ice cold beer practically evaporates on your tongue. Do not fear: not all the dishes are incendiary. Try the seafood—lobster, Manila clams, Dungeness and blue crabs, whelk, and oysters— prepared with tamer garlicky black bean sauce, or ginger and green onions. The Cantonese wonton soup, nearly as mild as your morning bowl of oatmeal, is as memorable as the feverish stuff. Sliced pork and shrimp are pushed into the steaming bowl of noodles and greens just before serving. Think comforting, grandmotherly tenderness.

11042 Reading Rd., Sharonville, (513) 563-6888, chineseimperialinn.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MC, V, DS. $

ORIENTAL WOK

When Mike and Helen Wong opened Oriental Wok in 1977, the couple wanted to recreate the glamor and refinement of the Hong Kong-Cantonese cuisine they knew. Today, locals and expats alike enjoy authentic Chinese and Chinese-American dishes in dining rooms reminiscent of Beijing. Beyond the elephant tusk entryway and fish ponds and fountains is the warmth and hospitality of the Wong family, service on par with the finest establishments, and very, very good food. Best are the fresh fish: salmon, grouper and sea bass steamed, grilled or fried in a wok, needing little more than

the ginger-green onion sauce that accompanies them. Oriental Wok is the tri-state’s longest-running family-owned Chinese restaurant for a reason.

317 Buttermilk Pke., Ft. Mitchell, (859) 331-3000; 2444 Madison Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 871-6888, orientalwok. com. Lunch Mon–Fri (Ft. Mitchell; buffet Sun 11–2:30), lunch Tues–Sat (Hyde Park), dinner Mon–Sat (Ft. Mitchell) dinner Tues–Sun (Hyde Park). MCC. $$

THE PACIFIC KITCHEN

The monster of a menu can be dizzying. Ease in with some top-notch Korean Wings. These slightly bubbly, shattercrisp wings are painted with a thin gochujang chili sauce (a foil to the fat). It takes 24 hours to prep the Cantonese duck, between a honey-vinegar brine to dry the skin, a marinade of star anise, bean paste, and soy within the re-sealed cavity, and the crispy convection oven finish. Dolsot bibimbap had plenty of crispy rice at the bottom of the stone bowl, and the accompanying banchan were soothing yet flavorful. Even dishes like a Malaysian goat stew resonated with rich, original flavors.

8300 Market Place Lane, Montgomery, (513) 898-1833, thepacific.kitchen. Lunch and dinner Mon & Wed–Sun, dim sum lunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

SICHUAN BISTRO CHINESE GOURMET

Like many Chinese restaurants that cater to both mainstream American and Chinese palates, this strip mall gem uses two menus. The real story here is found in dishes of pungent multi-layered flavors that set your mouth ablaze with fermented peppers and fresh chilies and then just as quickly cool it down with the devilish, numbing sensation of hua jiao, Sichuan pepper. Its numbing effect is subtle at first: appetizers of cold sliced beef and tripe, as well as slices of pork belly with a profusion of minced garlic, lean toward the hot and sweet; mapo tofu freckled with tiny fermented black beans and scallions, and pork with pickled red peppers and strips of ginger root, progress from sweet to pungent to hot to salty—in that order. Alternated with cooling dishes—nibbles of rice, a verdant mound of baby bok choy stir-fried with a shovelful of garlic, refreshing spinach wilted in ginger sauce, a simply sensational tea-smoked duck—the effect is momentarily tempered.

7888 S. Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 770-3123, sichuanbistro.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

UNCLE YIP’S

Long before sushi somehow un-disgusted itself to the Western World, China had houses of dim sum. Uncle Yip’s valiantly upholds that tradition in Evendale. This is a traditional dim sum house with all manner of exotic dumplings, including shark fin or beef tripe with ginger and onion. As for the seafood part of the restaurant’s full name, Uncle Yip has most everything the sea has to offer, from lobster to mussels. The menu has more than 160 items, so you’ll find a range of favorites, from moo goo gai pan to rock salt frog legs.

10736 Reading Rd., Evendale, (513) 733-8484, uncleyips.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, discount for cash. $$

ECLECTIC

would sap its energy. New offerings like the wood-grilled kefta, with charred tomatoes, peppers, and whipped tahini, feel just as accomplished as old favorites like the falafel, beautifully moist and crumbly with a bright parsley interior. The restaurant is always watching for what works and what will truly satisfy, ready to sacrifice the superficially interesting in favor of the essential.

1214 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-4040, abigailstreet.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

BOCA

Here, you can get plantain, yuca, or sweet potato as your root and a protein, like skirt steak or pulled chicken. Top it off with veggies (pinkslaw, vinagrete, citruscarrot) and a sauce (pink mayo, anyone?), and wash it all down with refreshing cocktails made with rum and harder-to-find spirits. 5903 Hamilton Ave., College Hill, (513) 620-4126, mashroots.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat, Lunch and dinner Sun. MCC. $

METROPOLE

Top

10 ABIGAIL STREET

Most people who’ve eaten at Abigail Street have favorite dishes that they order every visit: the Moroccan spiced broccoli, for example, or the mussels charmoula, with its perfect balance of saffron, creaminess, and tomatoey acidity. Many of the new items on the menu have the same perfected feeling as these classics. Working within a loose framework of Middle Eastern and North African flavors, Abigail Street has never fallen into a routine that

Top 10

With its grand staircase, chandelier, and floorto-ceiling draperies, Boca has an atmosphere of grandeur and refinement. There is a sense of drama not only in the decor but in everything it serves. In some dishes, there is a painterly sense of contrast and surprise, like violet-derived purple sugar beside the pain de Gênes (French almond cake). In others, there is a dramatic suspense, like the whole egg yolk quivering in the center of the Fassone tartare waiting to be broken. While staying mostly grounded in the fundamentals of Italian and French cuisine, Boca has an air of international sophistication that sets its food apart. The hamachi crudo, an old standby on the menu, takes Japanese flavors and gives them new dimensions with grapefruit suprêmes and slivers of shishito pepper. This is food of extraordinary creativity and flair.

114 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 542-2022, bocacincinnati.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$$

CROWN REPUBLIC GASTROPUB

What makes Crown Republic special isn’t its handful of outstanding dishes. It’s the place’s sheer consistency. No single dish is absolutely mind-blowing or completely original, but when almost everything that comes out is genuinely tasty, the service is always friendly and attentive, and (stop the presses!) the bill is quite a bit less than you expected, you sit up and pay attention. The crab and avocado toast, served on toasted bread with lime juice and slivers of pickled Fresno chiles, is a prime example of what makes Crown Republic tick. The cocktails are equally unfussy and good, like the Tequila Honey Bee, made with tequila reposado, honey thyme syrup, lemon, bitters, and mezcal rinse, which adds a smoky kick.

720 Sycamore St., downtown, (513) 246-4272, crgcincy.com. Brunch, lunch and dinner Wed–Sun. V, MC, DS, AMEX. $$

THE LITTLEFIELD

Inside a modest 1,500 square-foot space on Spring Grove, just south of Hamilton Avenue, at least 70-odd bourbons behind the bar drive this little restaurant’s philosophy. The menu is meant to be limited, the better to support and celebrate the bottled flavors up front. There are surprises: a faint hint of curry powder deepens the moody cauliflower fritters; skewered golf-balls of mild, peppery ground lamb get a faint crust from the final sear. You’ll also want to order the smoked pork katsu. Panko crusted cutlets of pork, topped with tonkatsu sauce, served with sesame ginger slaw and kewpie mayo. The signature chicken and corn chowder is exactly what you need on a cold winter’s day.

3934 Spring Grove Ave., Northside, (513) 386-7570, littlefieldns.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Sat & Sun. V, MC. $

MAPLEWOOD KITCHEN

At Maplewood, you order at the counter, then find a table, and a server will deliver what you’ve selected. There’s no cohesive cuisine, rather, the menu takes its cue from all corners of the globe: chicken tinga, spaghetti pomodoro, a New York Strip steak, guajillo chicken are all represented, along with a satisfying pappardelle with house-made sausage. Brunch is available all day so try the light lemon ricotta pancakes or the satisfying avocado benedict.

525 Race St., downtown, (513) 421-2100, maplewoodkitchenandbar.com. Breakfast and lunch seven days. MCC. $$

MASHROOTS

After serving mofongo at Findlay Market for nearly four years, Mashroots opened its first brick-and-mortar spot in College Hill this year. For the uninitiated, mofongo is a traditional Puerto Rican dish of mashed fried plantains with garlic and olive oil, typically served with protein and sauce.

Metropole has been remarkably stable since it opened in 2012. Even when chefs have left, the organization has promoted from within, kept pop-ular dishes on the menu, and maintained a certain vibe, a balance between sophistication and rustic-ity. Its vegetarian fare contains many of its most inventive and delightful creations. The seared salmon is served with beluga lentils, green tomato, cucumber, brown butter, and smoked onion. The blistered shishitos, served with refreshing watermelon, goat cheese, yuzu, and spiced almonds, encapsulates Metropole at its best: fun and whimsical, but rooted in careful execution of deep and satisfying flavors.

609 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 578-6660, metropoleonwalnut.com. Dinner seven days. V, DS, MC, AMEX. $$

Top 10 MITA’S

It’s fitting that chef Jose Salazar named this restaurant after his grandmother, because there is something deeply homey about the food at Mita’s. With a focus on Spanish and Latin-American tapas, it always feels, in the best possible way, like elevated home cooking. Its sophistication is modestly concealed. The flavors are bold and direct, whether the spicy freshness of the ceviche de camarones with passionfruit leche de tigreor the intensely bright sourness of the pozole verde. In dishes like the alcochofas y hongos, the chef hits every register: the acid of red espelette peppers to balance the earthy ramp-garlic hummus, the crunchy pistachios against the soft sautéed mushrooms and artichoke hearts. But what mainly comes through is the warm-hearted affection a grandmother might have put into a meal for a beloved grandson. It’s the kind of big hug everyone needs from time to time.

501 Race St., downtown, (513) 421-6482, mitas.co.

Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$$

NOLIA

Chef/Owner Jeffery Harris, a New Orleans native, prepares the cuisine of his beloved city with sophistication and flair, drawing on all the influences that have contributed to the cuisine of the Big Easy—from West African to French to Japanese to Haitian. The menu changes seasonally, with almost a complete overhaul each time. If classic New Orleans dishes do show up on the menu, they’re likely to get delightfully unexpected touches. Take the duck and oyster gumbo. Harris deconstructs the typical stew, building on a base of popcorn rice, instead of the more typical long grain, and a decadent duck fat roux. It’s exquisitely prepared food served in a funky, laid-back atmosphere.

1405 Clay St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 384-3597, noliakitchen.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

PAMPAS

Much like American food, Argentine cuisine is a melting pot shaped by immigration, particularly from Italy and Germany, and with plenty of meat on the plate. You see that mix in the menu, but Pampas puts parrillada, the Argentine method of cooking over an open flame, front and center. The chimichurri appears throughout the menu, and does wonders wherever it goes. Spicy, tart, and filled with the flavor of oregano, it wakes up the marinated skirt steak. Magnificent desserts deserve special mention. The dolce de leche crème brule, with its caramelized sugar crust and shaved chocolate, is particularly popular.

2036 Madison Rd., O’Bryonville, (513) 321-0863, pampascincinnati.com. Brunch Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. V, DS, MC, AMEX. $$

THE QUARTER BISTRO

The Quarter Bistro has multiple personalities: one part clubby neighborhood joint, one part dinner and a movie with a dash of lusty romance. The Bistro Burger, a halfpound of black Angus beef, is seasoned but not overly so, with a sturdy-but-not-too-chewy bun. The 18-hour short ribs are the star, and reason enough to skip the movie next

door. Braised into a flavor bomb of meat candy, it’s served with papardelle pasta, roasted vegetables, and onion straws. With the no-lip service, The Quarter Bistro could be well on the way to making middle age look sexy.

6904 Wooster Pke., Mariemont, (513) 2715400, qbcincy.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

RUTH’S PARKSIDE CAFÉ

The spiritual successor of Mullane’s Parkside Café, Ruth’s brings back the vegetable-forward menu with a few concessions to contemporary tastes. Dinner options now include steaks and heavier entrées. But the stir-fries, beans and rice, pasta, and the traditional option to add a protein to an entrée (tofu, tempeh, chicken, or local chorizo) for an upcharge are all old standards. While dishes are generally hearty, they are rarely too rich, leaving room to freely consider dessert. There is a small selection of baked goods, including a gooey butter cake, homemade fruit pies, and Madisono’s Gelato.

1550 Blue Rock St., Northside, (513) 542-7884, ruthscafe.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$

SACRED BEAST

Sacred Beast advertises itself as a kind of upscale diner, but the real gems are the oddball dishes that don’t quite fit the diner mold. The menu can be disorienting in its eclecticism: foie gras torchon is

next to fries with lobster gravy, and a king salmon is next to a diner breakfast and deviled eggs. Winners are scattered throughout the menu in every category. On the cocktail list, the Covington Iced Tea, a lemon and coffee concoction made with cold brew, San Pellegrino, and vodka is oddly satisfying. The service is good, and there is some flair about the place—including vintage touches, from the facsimile reel-to-reel audio system to the mostly classic cocktails—even within its rather chilly industrial design. In short, go for the unique grub; stay for the elegant, shareable twists on classic snacks.

1437 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 213-2864, sacredbeastdiner.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun. MCC. $$

SALAZAR

A freewheeling tour through Korean, Moroccan, Italian, and French flavors—and that’s just on one iteration of the ever-evolving menu. Salazar turns out fresh, well-balanced dishes dotted with seasonal surprises: the cauliflower steak special (a Moroccan spiced, seared wedge of the cruciferous vegetable complemented by a strong hit of lemon), the chicken liver mousse (so good it deserves its own trophy), and the succulent chicken Milanese (with its musky, sweet-and-sour notes of ground cherry). With its bustling bar and cheek-by-jowl tables, Salazar hums with energy at every meal.

1401 Republic St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 6217000, salazarcincinnati.com. Dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

SENATE

Ever since it began dishing out its lo-fi eats, Chef Dan Wright’s gastropub has been operating at a velocity few can match. From the howl and growl

of supremely badass hot dogs to the palaterattling poutine, Senate has led the charge in changing the local conventional wisdom about what makes a great restaurant. Consumption of mussels charmoula means either ordering additional grilled bread to soak up every drop of the herby, saffron-laced broth or drinking the remainder straight from the bowl and perfectly crisped and seasoned fries inspire countless return visits.

1100 Summit Place Dr., Blue Ash, (513) 7690099, senateblueash.com. Lunch and dinner

Tues–Sun. MC, V, DS. $

TASTE OF BELGIUM

Jean-François Flechet’s waffle empire grew from a back counter of Madison’s grocery at Findlay Market to multiple full-service sit-down spots. There’s more on the menu than the authentic Belgian treat, though it would be a crime to miss the chicken and waffles: a dense, yeasty waffle topped with a succulent buttermilk fried chicken breast, Frank’s hot sauce, and maple syrup. There are also frites, of course, and Brussels sprouts—served with pancetta and sherry vinaigrette—plus a gem of a Bolognese. And let’s not forget the beer. Five rotating taps offer some of the best the Belgians brew, not to mention those made in town.

1133 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 381-4607, and other locations, authenticwaffle.com. Breakfast and lunch Mon–Sat, dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $

TERANGA

West African cuisine consists of mostly simple, home-style dishes of stews and grilled lamb with just enough of the exotic to offer a glimpse of another culture. Be prepared for a few stimulating sights and flavors that warm from within. An entire grilled tilapia—head and all—in a peppery

DAWG GONE

This year, Epic Brands—the parent company of Agave & Rye—is launching a quick-service restaurant concept called Trashy Dawg, with a focus on hot dogs, wings, and other bar bites. While the first location opened in Alabama this spring, founder and CEO Yavonne Sarber says she hopes to launch the first Cincinnati location by October and plans to add 50 new locations a year.

blushing... to stunning

citrus marinade and served on plantains with a side of Dijoncoated cooked onions is interesting enough to pique foodie interest without overwhelming the moderate eater. Stews of lamb or chicken with vegetables and rice are a milder bet, and Morrocan-style couscous with vegetables and mustard sauce accompanies most items. The dining room atmosphere is extremely modest with most of the action coming from the constant stream of carryout orders.

8438 Vine St., Hartwell, (513) 821-1300, terangacinci. com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

THE VIEW AT SHIRES’ GARDEN

The name of this restaurant demands that one question be answered first: So, how’s that view? Well, it’s impressive. Especially if the weather cooperates and you can get a seat outside. Most dishes are rotated out every six months, but a few remain staples from season to season. Try the panroasted chicken, featuring a Freebird Farms skin-on breast. Or go for the Chef’s Feast for Two, a shareable steak with an Argentine shrimp salad and two sides. The cocktail list offers high, low, and zero proof options alongside a well-rounded beer and wine selection.

309 Vine St., 10th Floor, downtown, (513) 407-7501, theviewatshiresgarden.com. Dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$$

YUCA

Yuca is in The Fairfield’s former space, retaining much of the same modern, airy, and inviting café vibes with a neighborhood feel, but boasting a menu certainly worth a commute. In the mood for a hearty breakfast? Indulge in the Fat Zach, a heaping corn gordita packed to the brim with chicken, chorizo, and scrambled egg, served with avocado, pineapple pico, and sweet and spicy potatoes. There’s a full drink menu ranging from coffee to Bloody Marys—or a selection of margaritas and palomas if you’re looking to stick around.

700 Fairfield Ave., Bellevue, (859) 360-0110, yucabycedar.com. Breakfast and lunch Tues–Sun. MCC. $

FRENCH

CHEZ RENÉE FRENCH BISTROT

Based on American stereotypes of French food—that it’s elaborate, elitist, and expensive—one might expect Chez Renée to fall on the chichi side. Instead, it’s elegant in an everyday way, operating on the principle that it is better to excel at simplicity than to badly execute something complicated. The formula is not complex: Simple ingredients, generally fresh and from nearby, prepared without much fuss. Warmed brie is served with thyme, almonds, fruit, and bread, and the chicken risotto is served with creamy mushrooms. This is solid, tasty food, both approachable and well executed. It’s well on its way to becoming, as a good bistrot should be, a neighborhood institution.

233 Main St., Milford, (513) 428-0454, chezreneefrenchbistrot.com. Friday–Sat and dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $$

FRENCH CRUST

Located in the old Globe Furniture building at the corner of Elm and Elder Streets, this Jean-Robert de Cavel creation offers French fare in the heart of Over-the-Rhine. Swing by for lunch and have a quiche Lorraine (French Crust’s quiches are unrivaled in our humble opinion) and an avocado and shrimp salad, or opt for a more hearty entree—like bouillabaisse or cassoulet—for dinner. If you’re an early bird, a Croque Monsieur (sunny side up egg) is a great way to start the day.

1801 Elm St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 455-3720, frenchcrustcafe.com. Breakfast and lunch Wed–Sun, dinner Thurs–Sun. MCC. $$

Top 10 LE BAR A BOEUF

If it’s been a couple of years since you’ve been

to Le Bar a Boeuf—Jean-Robert de Cavel’s fun-yet-refined French bistro located on the first floor of the Edgecliff Private Residences in East Walnut Hills—it may be time for a revisit. The formerly burger-centric menu now approaches the full repertoire of bistro classics. The menu reads like a greatest hits list of bistro fare, with escargot, beef tartare, duck leg confit, steak frites, and French onion soup all making appearances. As France’s influence on American fine dining has waned, it’s refreshing to see a restaurant committed to not only preserving the French classics but reinvigorating them.

2200 Victory Pkwy., East Walnut Hills, (513) 751-2333, barboeuf.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

INDIAN

AMMA’S KITCHEN

Muthu “Kumar” Muthiah serves traditional southern Indian and Indo-Chinese vegetarian cuisine, but with a sizable Orthodox Jewish community nearby, Muthia saw an opportunity: If he was going to cook vegetarian, why not also make it kosher? Muthiah prepares every item— from the addictively crunchy gobhi Manchurian, a spicy Chinese cauliflower dish, to the lemon pickle, tamarind, and mint sauces—entirely from scratch under the careful eye of Rabbi Michoel Stern. Always 80 percent vegan, the daily lunch buffet is 100 percent animal-product-free on Wednesdays. Tuck into a warm and savory channa masala (spiced chickpeas) or malai kofta (vegetable dumplings in tomato sauce) from the curry menu. Or tear into a crispy, two-foot diameter dosa (chickpea flour crepe) stuffed with spiced onions and potatoes.

7633 Reading Rd., Roselawn, (513) 821-2021, ammaskitchen.com. Lunch buffet seven days (all-vegan on Wed), dinner seven days. MC, V, DS. $

BRIJ MOHAN

Order at the counter the way you might at a fast food joint, except the shakes come in mango and there’s no super-sizing your mint lassi. The saag, full of cream in most northern Indian restaurants, is as intensely flavored as collard greens in the Deep South—real Punjabi soul food. Tarka dal is spectacular here, the black lentils smoky from charred tomatoes and onions, and the pani puri, hollow fried shells into which you spoon a peppery cold broth, burst with tart cool crunch. Follow the spice with soothing ras malai, freshly made cheese simmered in thick almond-flavored milk, cooled and sprinkled with crushed pistachios.

11259 Reading Rd., Sharonville, (513) 769-4549, brijmohancincinnati.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DC, AMEX. $

ITALIAN

ADRIATICO’S

Everything about this place says it’s about the pizza: the herbed sauce, the assault of the cheese, the toppings. It’s all evenly distributed, so you get a taste in every bite. Adriatico’s still delivers the tastiest pizza in Clifton. On any given night the aroma wafts through every dorm on campus. It’s that popular because it’s that good. Being inexpensive doesn’t hurt either.

113 W. McMillan St., Clifton Heights, (513) 281-4344, adriaticosuc.com. Lunch and dinner seven days.

MCC. $

FORNO

Cristian Pietoso’s second restaurant has all the bones of an upscale eatery, but the menu is infused with enough Italian soul to make nonna proud. In most instances, raving about a side of creamed corn wouldn’t bode well for the rest of the menu. Here, that side dish—kernels swimming in a pool of truffle-laced heavy cream that demands sopping up—is evidence that each component is purpose-driven. The red wine–braised honeycomb tripe, which carries a warning label (“Don’t be scared!”), and the pappardelle with spiced cinghiale (wild boar) ragu are examples of the elevated, adventurous comfort food that Pietoso strives for.

3514 Erie Ave., East Hyde Park, (513) 818-8720, fornoosteriabar.com. Dinner Tues–Sun, brunch Sun. MCC. $$

Top10 NICOLA’S

Chef/Restaurateur Cristian Pietoso carries on the legacy of his father, Nicola, as the elder Pietoso’s Over-the-Rhine eatery celebrates 25 years in business. Nicola’s has entered a new era of exuberant creativity under the leadership of chef Jack Hemmer. You can still get the old Italian classics, and they’ll be as good as ever, but the rest of the menu has blossomed into a freewheeling tour of modern American cuisine. Any establishment paying this level of attention to detail—from the candied slice of blood orange on the mascarpone cheesecake to the staff ’s wine knowledge—is going to put out special meals. Rarely have humble insalate been so intricately delicious, between the perfectly nested ribbons of beets in the pickled beet salad or the balance of bitterness, funkiness, and creaminess in the endive and Gorgonzola salad. Order an old favorite, by all means, but make sure you try something new, too.

1420 Sycamore St., Pendleton, (513) 721-6200, nicolasotr.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC, DS. $$$

PEPP & DOLORES

As with all of Thunderdome’s restaurants, you get a sense that they want to deliver a meal that satisfies many different kinds of people. The prices are reasonable, with pasta entrées about $15. The dishes are familiar in their flavors, but everything feels balanced and modulated and gradually perfected. There is lovely variety: the limone pasta is zippy with lemon and chili flakes, and just the right mixture of tart and creamy; the deep meaty flavors on the mushroom toast are balanced with a nice acidity; and the heat

in dishes like the eggplant involtini is just enough to wake up the sauce without overwhelming the flavor. The menu has a wealth of excellent vegetarian and pasta-alternative options.

1501 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 419-1820, peppanddolores.com. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner Mon–Thurs. MCC. $$

PRIMAVISTA

Besides offering the old world flavors of Italy, Primavista also serves up a specialty no other restaurant can match: a bird’s eye view of Cincinnati from the west side. The kitchen is equally comfortable with northern and southern regional specialties: a Venetian carpaccio of paper thin raw beef sparked by fruity olive oil; house-made fresh mozzarella stuffed with pesto and mushrooms; or artichoke hearts with snails and mushrooms in a creamy Gorgonzola sauce from Lombardy. Among the classics, nothing is more restorative than the pasta e fagioli, a hearty soup of cannellini, ditali pasta, and bacon. Most of the pastas are cooked just a degree more mellow than al dente so that they soak up the fragrant tomato basil or satiny cream sauces. The fork-tender osso buco Milanese, with its marrow-filled center bone and salty-sweet brown sauce (marinara and lemon juice), is simply superb. Desserts present further problems; you’ll be hard-pressed to decide between the house-made tiramisu or bread pudding with caramel sauce, marsala soaked raisins, and cream.

810 Matson Pl., Price Hill, (513) 251-6467, pvista. com. Dinner Wed–Sun. MCC, DC, DS. $$

Top10

SOTTO

There are certain books and movies that you can read or watch over and over. Eating at Sotto is a similar experience: familiar, but so profound and satisfying that there is no reason to ever stop. Unlike other restaurants, where the techniques are often elaborate and unfamiliar, the magic at Sotto happens right in front of you, using ordinary elements and methods. When you taste the results, though, you realize that some mysterious transmutation has taken place. Penne with rapini and sausage comes in a buttery, lightly starchy broth with a kick of spice that you could go on eating forever. From the texture of the chicken liver mousse to the tart cherry sauce on the panna cotta, most of the food has some added element of soulfulness.

118 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 977-6886, sottocincinnati.com. Dinner seven days. V, MC, DS, AMEX. $$

SUBITO

Focusing on Northern Italian cuisine, Subito carves out its own worthwhile place in the landscape. Most of the items on the menu—from pizza to various pastas—will be familiar, but there are delightful surprises, like the vegan torta di ceci. At the base of the dish is a light, flaky farinata—a griddled pancake made out of chickpea flour. Topped with pickled red onion, and covered with nectarine and toasted almonds, the whole dish is rounded out with a touch of tangy sweetness from a blackberry balsamic vinaigrette. Everything at Subito is done with intelligence and a light touch.

311 Pike St., downtown, (513) 621-4500, thelytleparkhotel.com/dining/subito. Breakfast and lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

VIA VITE

Via Vite serves up crowd-pleasing entrées, including the Pietoso family Bolognese, over penne, right on Fountain Square. (Add in a golf-ball-sized veal meatball heavy with lemon zest, and it’s an over-the-top comforting main dish.) The same applies to the risotto, where a few small touches add sophistication. Carnaroli rice results in a glossier, starchier dish. A puree of asparagus turns the risotto an eye-popping green, and the poached lobster garnish creates a nice back-and-forth between vegetal and briny flavors. Braised lamb shank over polenta is comforting workhorse, and the flavorful Faroe Island salmon with roasted carrot puree, caramelized Brussel sprouts and truffled brown butter balsamic vinaigrette.

520 Vine St., downtown, (513) 721-8483, viaviterestaurant.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

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JAPANESE

ANDO

You don’t go just anywhere to dine on uni sashimi (sea urchin) or tanshio (thinly sliced charcoal-grilled beef tongue). Don’t miss the rich and meaty chyu toro (fatty big-eye tuna), or the pucker-inducing umeshiso maki (pickled plum paste and shiso leaf roll). Noodles are also well represented, with udon, soba, or ramen options available. And don’t forget to ask about the specials; owners Ken and Keiko Ando always have something new, be it grilled koji or marinated amberjack smoked salmon crudo, delicacies that you’ll be hard-pressed to find in any of those Hyde Park pan-Asian wannabes. The only thing you won’t find here is sake, or any other alcohol. Bring your own, or stick to the nutty and outright addicting barley tea.

5889 Pfeiffer Rd., Blue Ash, (513) 954-0041, andojapaneserestaurant.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$$

Top10 KIKI

Kiki started as a pop-up at Northside Yacht Club, then leapt into brick-and-mortar life in College Hill. Your best bet here is to share plates, or simply order too much, starting with the shishito buono, a piled-high plate of roasted shishito peppers tossed in shaved parmesan and bagna cauda, a warm, rich blend of garlic and anchovies. Add the karaage fried chicken, with the Jordy mayo and the pepe meshi, confit chicken on spaghetti and rice that somehow works. And, yes, the ramen, too. The shio features

pork belly and tea-marinated soft-boiled egg, but the kimchi subs in tofu and its namesake cabbage for the meat.

5932 Hamilton Ave., College Hill, (513) 541-0381, kikicincinnati.com. Lunch Sun and dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $

KYOTO

Owner Jason Shi seems to know everybody’s name as he chats up diners, guiding them through the extensive sushi and sashimi menu. Five young sushi chefs, all part of Shi’s family, work at light speed behind the bar, a choreography backlit by rows of gleaming liquor bottles. Dinner proceeds with glorious chaos as a feisty Carla Tortelli–like server delivers one dish after another—slivers of giant clam on ice in a super-sized martini glass, a volcanic tower of chopped fatty tuna hidden inside overlapping layers of thin avocado slices, smoky grilled New Zealand mussels drizzled with spicy mayo, and delicate slices of a samurai roll—all between shots of chilled sake.

12082 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Twp., (513) 583-8897, kyotosushibar.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

MEI

Mei’s menu is meant to represent traditional Japanese cuisine, appealing to the novice as well as the sushi maven. It is divided into sections that encourage a progressive meal of small dishes: One each for hot and cold appetizers, noodles, sushi and sashimi, special rolls, soups and salads, sushi dinners (with miso soup), and combinations (such as tempura paired with sashimi). Deep-fried soft shell crab comes with ponzu sauce—a dipping sauce made of rice vinegar, soy sauce, mirin, and citrus juice—and the kind of yakitori that you can find on the streets of New York. Bento boxes—lacquered wooden boxes divided into compartments—offer the neophyte a sampling of several small dishes. Mei’s are lovely: deep red and stocked with tempura, cooked salmon, sashimi, stewed vegetables, and a fabulous egg custard with shrimp and gingko nut. Mei’s sushi—nigiri, maki, and handrolls—is exceptionally good with quality cuts of fresh seafood. The staff is knowledge-

able, extremely efficient, respectful, and attentive, even when it’s at peak capacity.

8608 Market Place Lane, Montgomery, (513) 891-6880, meijapaneserestaurant.com. Lunch Sat & Sun, dinner

Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

KOREAN HARU

After the closing of Sung Korean Bistro, Haru is a welcome addition to the downtown scene. Dishes are served along with the usual Korean accompaniment of pickles, kimchi, fish cakes, and other mysteriously delicious dainties. A favorite is the japchae, a traditional dish sporting silky sweet potato noodles with sesame-and-garlic sauce, matchsticks of assorted crisp vegetables, and behind it all a wonderful smokiness that pervades the whole meal. The accompanying pot of gochujang, a fermented Korean chili paste, adds its own sweet and spicy note. The result is a homey, soulful, and satisfying taste that appeals even to those who’ve never eaten a bite of Korean food before.

628 Vine St., downtown, (513) 381-0947, harucincy.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$

RIVERSIDE KOREAN RESTAURANT

Come for the jo gi mae un tang—a bowl of sizzling, happy hellbroth pungent with red pepper, garlic, and ginger, crowded with nuggets of fish, tofu, and vegetables. Come for the restorative power of sam gae tang, a chicken soup for the Seoul—a whole Cornish hen submerged in its own juices and plumped with sticky rice and ginseng, dried red dates, and pine nuts. Revered for their medicinal properties, both dinner-sized soups will leave your eyes glistening and your brow beaded with sweat. They’re a detox for your

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overindulgence, rejuvenation for when you’re feeling under the weather. Expect crowds on weekends. Expect too, that dozens of them have come for dolsot bibimbap, the hot stone pots filled with layers of rice, vegetables, meat or tofu, egg, and chili paste. Characterized by its electric color and addictive flavors, Riverside Korean’s version is a captivating bowl of heaven.

512 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 291-1484, riversidekoreanrestaurant.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

MEDITERRANEAN

ANDY’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE

In this lively joint with a burnished summer lodge interior of wood and stone, even the food is unrestrained: rough-cut chunks of charbroiled beef tenderloin, big slices of onion and green pepper turned sweet and wet in the heat, skewers of marinated and charbroiled chicken perched on rice too generous for its plate. Co-owner Andy Hajjar mans his station at the end of the bar, smoking a hookah pipe that fills the air with the sweet smell of flavored tobacco, while the friendly but hurried staff hustles through.

906 Nassau St., Walnut Hills, (513) 281-9791, andyskabob.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

CAFÉ MEDITERRANEAN

Chef-driven Middle Eastern cuisine leans heavily on Turkish tradition here. The baba ghanoush uses seared eggplant, which adds a pleasant smokiness to the final product. Börek is described as a “Turkish Egg Roll,” wrapping feta and fresh and dried herbs into phyllo dough, and frying it lightly to brittle flakiness. The pastry arrives atop a vivid cherry tomato marmalade, which adds a welcome dimen-

sion of barely sweet fruitiness. While there is a smooth, simple hummus on the menu, you should go for the classic sucuklu hummus, which is spiked with sujuk, a common beef sausage popular all over the Middle East.

3520 Erie Ave., East Hyde Park, (513) 871-8714, mediterranean-cafe.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

PHOENICIAN TAVERNA

baklava this side of the Atlantic (often made by the Mrs.), they never miss a beat, turning more covers in their tiny restaurant on one Saturday afternoon than some restaurants do in an entire weekend.

5209 Glenway Ave., Price Hill, (513) 471-2100, sebastiansgyros.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. Cash. $

SULTAN’S MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE

Top 10

No matter how much restraint you go in with, meals at Phoenician Taverna quickly become feasts. There is just too much that’s good, and everything is meant to be shared. With fresh pita bread continuously arriving from the ovens, and a table of quickly multiplying meze (hummus, falafel, muhammara), there is a warmth and depth to the cooking that envelops you. With such traditional cuisine, you may think there isn’t much left to discover beyond simply executed classics prepared according to time-tested methods. But there are always new discoveries as the flavors mingle from plate to plate: the tabbouleh with the hummus, mixed with a touch of harissa, or the smoky baba ghanoush spooned onto falafel. Phoenician Taverna keeps taking these classics a little further.

7944 Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 770-0027, phoeniciantaverna.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

SEBASTIAN’S

When the wind is just right, you can smell the meat roasting from a mile away. Watch owner Alex Vassiliou tend to the rotating wheels of beef and lamb, and you understand how Greek food has escaped the American tendency to appropriate foreign cuisines. Sebastian’s specializes in gyros, shaved off the stick, wrapped in thick griddle pita with onions and tomatoes, and served with cool tzatziki sauce. Alex’s wife and daughter run the counter with efficient speed, and whether you’re having a crisp Greek salad with house-made dressing, triangles of spanikopita, or simply the best walnut and honey

The meze, a parade of small plates and appetizers—the refreshing yogurt dish with cucumber, mint, and garlic known as cacik, and its thicker cousin haydari, with chopped walnuts, dill, and garlic—is rounded out with flaky cheese or spinach boureks, falafels, soups, salads, and more, while baked casseroles or stuffed cabbage and eggplant dishes (dubbed “Ottoman specials”) augment the heavy focus on kebabs: chunks of lamb and beef on a vertical spit for the popular Doner kebab (a.k.a. Turkish gyro), peppery ground lamb for the Adana kebab, or cubed and marinated for the Shish kebab.

7305 Tyler’s Corner Dr., West Chester, (513) 847-1535, sultanscincinnati.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

MEXICAN

EL VALLE VERDE

Guests with dietary issues, high anxiety, and no Spanish may take a pass, but for hardy souls, this taqueria delivers a memorable evening. Seafood dishes are the star here— ceviche tostadas, crisp corn tortillas piled high with pico de gallo, avocado, and lime-tastic bits of white fish, squid, and crab; the oversized goblet of cocktel campechano, with ample poached shrimp crammed into a Clamato-heavy gazpacho; and simmering sopa de marisco came with

langoustines, mussels, crab legs, and an entire fish—enough to feed three.

6717 Vine St., Carthage, (513) 821-5400, valle-verde3.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. $

MAZUNTE

Mazunte runs a culinary full court press, switching up specials to keep both regulars and staff engaged. Pork tamales arrive swaddled in a banana leaf, the shredded pork filling steeped in a sauce fiery with guajillo and ancho chilies yet foiled by the calming sweetness of raisins. The fried fish tacos are finished with a citrusy red and white cabbage slaw that complements the accompanying mangohabañero salsa. With this level of authentic yet fast-paced execution, a slightly greasy pozole can be easily forgiven. Don’t miss the Mexican Coke, the margaritas, or the non-alcoholic horchata.

5207 Madison Rd., Madisonville, (513) 7850000, mazuntetacos.com. Lunch and dinner

Mon–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $

MESA LOCA

Sitting on a corner of Hyde Park Square, it’s easy to see that Mesa Loca has an absolute dream of a location. The pandemic forced a few changes to the seafood-centric menu, but those dishes still on the menu indicate what Mesa Loca could be. The tuna ceviche is nicely balanced: tart, with a little spicy creaminess, and a good crispy tostada. The Baja snapper goes well with a bright pile of grated radish and the mango habañero salsa, one

of the highlights of the meal. With minced chunks of mango and a hint of fruity habañero heat, it is a prime example of how you can elevate Mexican food and make it worthy of a higher-than-ordinary price. One of Mesa Loca’s appealing qualities is its dramatic flair: The yucca fries come stacked on the plate like a late-stages game of Jenga, and their sour-and-spicy rub is quite delicious and striking against the bright starchy white of the fries.

2645 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, (513) 321-6372, mesalocahydepark.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

NADA

The brains behind Boca deliver authentic, contemporary, high-quality Mexican fare downtown. You’ll find a concise menu, including tacos, salads and sides, large plates, and desserts. The Pork Al Pastor tacos, zesty with salsa verde and sweet with grilled pineapple, are definite crowdpleasers. If you’re biased against brussels sprouts, Nada just might convert you. Their crispy brussels, served with chipotle honey and candied ancho pepitas, are a deliciously intriguing starter.

600 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 721-6232, eatdrinknada.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

TAQUERIA CRUZ

The menu at this four-table mom-and-pop welcomes you to “a little piece of Mexico.” The huaraches (spelled guarachis here), are flat troughs of thick, handmade fried masa dough the approximate shape and size of a shoeprint, mounded with beans and slivers of grilled beef or chili-red nubs of sausage, shredded lettuce, a crumble of queso fresco, and drizzle of cultured cream. Should you have an adventurous side, you can have your huarache topped with slippery tongue, goat meat,

shredded chicken, or pork. There are stews, carne asada plates, and sopes—saucers of fried masa much like huaraches, only smaller.

518 Pike St., Covington, (859) 431-3859. Lunch and dinner seven days. Cash. $

SEAFOOD

MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’S

The daily rotation here reads like a fisherman’s wish list: fresh lobsters from the coast of Maine, ahi tuna from Hawaii, clams from New England. But high-quality ingredients are only half the equation; preparation is the other. Herb-broth sea bass, served with roasted fingerling potatoes, makes the taste buds dance. The spacious digs and attentive waitstaff bring a touch of class to Fountain Square, and make it a sophisticated destination. It’s likely to remain a favorite. After all, it’s right in the middle of things.

21 E. Fifth St., downtown, (513) 721-9339, mccormickandschmicks.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $$

PELICAN’S REEF

When Mapi De Veyra and Kam Siu, the duo behind DOPE! and Decibel Korean Fried Chicken, took over Pelican’s Reef in late 2021, they weren’t looking to make too many changes. Varieties of fresh fish still rotate daily across the 10-by-2-foot chalkboard: mahi-mahi from the Gulf, Lake Erie walleye, wild Alaskan salmon, wreckfish from South Carolina, rainbow trout, and wild striped bass make up the majority of the featured dishes. The regular offerings are no slouch either: a Cajun grouper sandwich with chipotle tartar sauce, per-

CLUB COCKTAIL

Bellevue favorite

The Party Source plans to open its new cocktail bar Merchants Club this summer with a focus on craft cocktails and light bites. The bar’s name pays homage to the original of the same name that operated as an underground casino in Newport in the 1950s. It replaces the Braxton Labs taproom, which closed in January 2022.

fectly fried piping hot oysters tucked into a buttered and toasted po’ boy bun with housemade slaw, and tart-sweet key lime pie. And of course, the damn good New England style chowder.

7261 Beechmont Ave., Anderson Twp., (513) 232-2526, the pelicansreef.com. Lunch Tues-Sat, dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

ROSEWOOD SUSHI, THAI & SEAFOOD

Chanaka De Lanerolle sold Mt. Adams Fish House back in 2011, and Rosewood Sushi, Thai & Seafood is its reincarnation—and reinvention. Most of the menu tends toward fairly conservative takes on classics, like well-seasoned crab cakes and thick, creamy chowder full of seafood. The handful of ethnic experiments on the menu are among its most vibrant offerings, including a Mediterranean fish stew that takes inspiration from the North African coast.

3036 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 631-3474, oakleyfishhouse.com. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$$

STEAKS

CARLO & JOHNNY

The stars of the menu are 12 delectable steaks that could sway the vegi-curious to recommit. Not sure which to choose? If you prefer brawny flavor over buttery texture, go for one of the three bone-in rib cuts. Or if it’s that meltin-your-mouth experience that raises your serotonin levels, C&J features several tenderloin cuts, including the premium six-ounce Wagyu filet. There are the usual suspects of raw bar, seafood, pork chops, et al, if you’re interested in nonbeef alternatives.

9769 Montgomery Rd., Montgomery, (513) 936-8600, jeffruby.com/carlo-johnny. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

LOSANTI

A bit more upscale than its sister restaurant, Crown Republic Gastropub, Losanti is also more conservative in its offerings. Service is friendly and informal, and though the meal feels like a special occasion, prices and atmosphere are right for, say, a date, rather than a wedding anniversary. The filet mignon, rib eye, and New York strip are cut to order for each table (there are a few available weights for each). The steaks themselves are totally irreproachable, perfectly seasoned, cooked to precisely the right point. Losanti even makes the steakhouse sides a little special. Sweet and smoky caramelized onions are folded into the mashed potatoes, a nice dusting of truffles wakes up the mac and cheese, and the sweet corn—yes, totally out of season, but still good—is at least freshly cut off the cob and recalls elote with lime and chile.

Top10

1401 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4213, losantiotr.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$$

MORTON’S THE STEAKHOUSE

No one has replicated the concept of an expensive boys’ club better than Morton’s. Amid the dark polished woods and white linen, the Riedel stemware and stupendous flower arrangements, assorted suits grapple with double cut filet mignons, 24 ounces of porterhouse, pink shiny slabs of prime rib, overflowing plates of salty Lyonnaise potatoes, or mammoth iceberg wedges frosted with thick blue cheese dressing. Jumbo is Morton’s decree: Even steaks billed as “slightly smaller” weigh in at 8 to 10 ounces.

441 Vine St., downtown, (513) 621-3111, mortons.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$

THE PRECINCT

baked macaroni and cheese, the creamy garlic mashed potatoes, the crisp-tender asparagus with roasted garlic and lemon vinaigrette—and dinner ends on a sweet note with a piece of Ruby family recipe cheesecake. Neither cloyingly sweet nor overwhelmingly creamy, it’s a lovely slice of restraint.

311 Delta Ave., Columbia-Tusculum, (513) 321-5454, jeffruby.com/precinct. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

TONY’S

Best known for his 30 years in fine dining—including the Jeff Ruby empire, managing the venerable Precinct—Tony Ricci has built a life in the hospitality industry. Much of Tony’s menu is right out of a steakhouse playbook: jumbo shrimp and king crab legs from the raw bar; Caprese, Greek, and Caesar salads; sides of creamed spinach, mac-and-cheese, asparagus, and sautéed mushrooms; toppings of roasted garlic or Gorgonzola butters to accompany your center cut of filet mignon. There are boutique touches, though, that make it stand out—a garlic herb aioli with the calamari, steak tartare torch-kissed and topped with a poached egg, a superb rack of lamb rubbed with aromatic sumac and served with mint pesto.

12110 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Township, (513) 6778669, tonysofcincinnati.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$$

Top10

Part of the appeal of the Ruby restaurants is their ability to deliver deep, comfort-food satisfaction. And the steaks. The meat is tender with a rich mineral flavor, and the signature seasoning provided a nice crunch. The supporting cast is strong—the basket of warm Tribeca Oven bread with a mushroom truffle butter, the addictive

CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, (ISSN 0746-8 210), June 2023, Volume 56, Number 9. Published monthly ($19.95 for 12 issues annually) at 1818 Race St., Ste. 301, Cincinnati, OH 45202. (513) 421-4300. Copyright © 2023 by Cincinnati Magazine LLC, a subsidiary of Hour Media Group, 5750 New King Dr., Ste. 100, Troy, MI 48098. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or reprinted without permission. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, and artwork should be accompanied by SASE for return. The magazine cannot be held responsible for loss. For subscription orders, address changes or renewals, write to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071, or call 1-866-6606247. Periodicals postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Please send forms 3579 to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071. If the Postal Service alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year.

When you see the Ohio Proud logo, you know you are getting Ohiomade and grown products. From fresh meats, fruits and vegetables, to dairy products and snack foods, you can find Ohio Proud products in your favorite grocery store and

ETC

PRODUCE

& PROVISIONS

ETC Produce & Provisions is a Farmer owned Micro Local Market located in the beautiful Historic Findlay Market. Come shop some of your favorite local farms and discover a few others while enjoying the Farmer Market experience 6 days a week. Can’t make it to downtown? We offer Next Day Farm Fresh Delivery anywhere inside the 275 Loop.

QUEEN CITY FARMS

We are changing how we supply fresh produce to the Midwest. We are a fast-growing specialty produce grower located in Cincinnati, Ohio; specializing in microgreens, edible flowers, micro herbs, and specialty blends. We believe in providing the highest quality Microgreens to our personal chefs, restaurants, grocers, and our NEW home delivery service.

1801 Race Street Unit 149 & 150 Cincinnati, OH 45202 etcproduce.com

BERTMAN ORIGINAL BALL PARK® MUSTARD

Bertman’s tasty, old-world style brown mustard, used at ballparks and stadiums for over 95 years, has been proclaimed by fans and food aficionados as “the best mustard on the planet.” One taste and you’ll know why! Bertman is available by the bottle on Amazon or by the case on the Bertman website. Cleveland, Ohio 44122 bertmanballparkmustard.com

MAVERICK CHOCOLATE

3818 State Route 133 Williamsburg, OH 45176

513-549-0655

www.qcityfarms.com

Follow us @queencityfarms

Our family started Maverick Chocolate to elevate the standard of chocolate by using ethically sourced ingredients to hand-craft our chocolate the old fashioned way from beanto-bar in Cincinnati, Ohio. You can feel good enjoying chocolate that is delicious, pure, and fair-for-all.

ohioproud.org

Two Cincinnati Locations: Maverick at Findlay Market Maverick at Rookwood Commons

513-834-8369

MaverickChocolate.com

at your local Farm Market. Ohio Proud is a quick and reliable way for you to identify Ohio-made and grown goods. Agriculture is Ohio’s number one industry, contributing more than $105 billion to the state’s economy. Ohio is home to more than 1,000 food processing companies and produces more than 200 commercial crops. Of these, the Buckeye State is a leading producer in more than 35 product sectors. If you are a consumer looking for products or a company who needs marketing assistance, Ohio Proud can help!

MOM’S GOURMET, LLC

Mom’s Gourmet seasonings are made in Ohio with organic and super premium ingredients. Developed with unique flavor profiles, our blends are small-batch blended and coarsely ground for peak freshness. Make meal prep a snap with our artisan seasonings. Just shake and bake, or grill, roast, fry, sear, simmer or broil.

URBAN STEAD CHEESE

Urban Stead Cheese is an urban cheesemaker located in East Walnut Hills, creating artisanal oldworld style cheeses. Urban Stead offers an incredible selection of cheese, beautiful & delicious cheese boards, a fantastic selection of wine and local beers as well as many other local products. If you’re looking for amazing local cheese, look no further!

momsgourmet.net

3036 Woodburn Ave. Cincinnati, OH 45206

urbansteadcheese.com

(614) 728-6206

15884 Arbor Trail Newbury, OH 44065

15 MINUTES SPRING SAVOR

SAVOR CINCINNATI RETURNED FOR A WEEK OF FINE FOOD AND WINE SUPPORTING LOCAL CHARITIES

In April, 600 guests gathered at Hard Rock Casino Cincinnati to enjoy four nights of amazing food and wine from nine of the best chefs in Cincinnati. Each night featured a one-of-a-kind fivecourse menu from two local chefs, complete with wine pairings. As well, each night, we partnered with a different local nonprofit to raise funds to further its mission. Thank you to all of our sponsors, partners, and guests, who made this dining series a phenomenal success.

THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS:

Presenting Sponsors: Kroger, Hard Rock Casino Cincinnati, MadTree Brewing Additional Sponsors: Ovation, Corporex, Lexus RiverCenter, FIJI Water, Uncle Nearest, Kinder Bueno, Nutella, KMK Law, La Brea Bakery, and Nothing Bundt Cakes

Movers and Shakers

IN 1823 SHAKERS ESTABLISHED WHITE WATER, A COMMUNAL SOCIETY IN WESTERN HAMILton County. It flourished into the early 20th century and, by the 1850s, 150 members of the United Society of Believers in Christ’s Second Appearing lived simply and peacefully in three “families,” farming the land, making brooms, and packaging garden seeds for sale. Named for a style of worship that involved ecstatic movements and shaking, Shakers believed in gender equality, celibacy, and communal ownership of property. The last two members left in 1916, and the property was sold to local farmers. More than 20 original Shaker structures remain near Harrison in Crosby Township, including a brick meeting house (built in 1827) and dwelling (built in 1832), unique among Shaker communities, which typically featured wood-frame structures. Today, the Friends of the White Water Shaker Village lease the property from Great Parks of Hamilton County and volunteers are restoring the historic buildings with a goal of opening them to the public for tours, craft workshops, demonstrations, fairs, and more. Open houses will be on September 24 and October 7. Check out whitewatervillage.com to schedule group tours and volunteer opportunities.

—RICK PENDER