Cincinnati Magazine - December 2021 Edition

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HOW WE RUINED THE BRENT SPENCE BRIDGE BY JIM DeBROSSE

LEARNING FROM THE PANDEMIC AT COLLEGE BY MICHELE DAY

OKTO PUTS A FUN SPIN ON GREEK FOOD BY AKSHAY AHUJA

HIGH SCORING KARAOKE

FRENCH FRIES FOR ALL

CRYSTAL POWER

LEVEL UP WITH 80 NEW WAYS TO LOVE CINCINNATI


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F E AT U R E S D E C E M B E R 2 02 1 RAISING THE BARRE CINCINNATI BALLET OPENED THE MARGARET AND MICHAEL VALENTINE CENTER FOR DANCE IN SEPTEMBER, ENABLING NEW CONNECTIONS WITH THE COMMUNITY.

P.

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BEST OF THE CITY

Celebrating all that’s new, whether you’re looking for a cycling studio, a coffee shop, a camping experience, a karaoke night out, or a fresh space for dance.

A MONUMENT TO SHAME

P. 52

The Brent Spence Bridge chokehold has taken a back seat to political cowardice and misplaced priorities for decades. Will the federal infrastructure bill finally bail out those who fiddled while the bridge burned?

LESSONS FROM THE PANDEMIC

P. 56

How local college faculty turned the past year’s crazy school schedules and disrupted routines into life lessons for their students. BY M I C H E L E DAY

BY JIM DeBROSSE

PHOTOGRAPH BY FEINKNOPF PHOTOGRAPHY

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ON OUR SITE

108

FOOD NEWS

12 / CONTRIBUTORS 12 / LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

FRONTLINES

18 / EVENTS

Marking the Jewish community’s bicentennial

20 / STYLE COUNSEL

Celebrating New Year’s Eve at the Zoo

17 / DISPATCH

18 / SPEAK EASY Cynthia Kearns of the American Sign Museum

DINE

108 / DINING OUT Okto, downtown

Tattoo artist Mahagany Shaw

110 / LUNCHBOX

22 / HOMEGROWN

110 / TABLESIDE WITH…

Letterpress cards from Bess Paper Goods

24 / REAL ESTATE

The latest news from our reemerging dining scene.

Yuca, Bellevue

Naval Culinary Specialist Matthew Deluca

A solar-powered Prospect Hill charmer

112 / BAR BITES

26 / DR. KNOW

112 / FIELD NOTES

Your QC questions answered

HomeMakers Bar’s Holiday Guide

Gulow Street, Northside

CITY NEWS

Decoding our civic DNA, from history to politics to personalities.

COLUMNS

Greater Cincinnati restaurants: A selective list

28 / LIVING IN CIN When a lifelong friend turns out to be a monster BY J AY G I L B E R T

32 / PERSON OF INTEREST

HOME + LIFE

ON THE COVER

illustration by

JUDE BUFFUM

Tracking what’s new in local real estate, artisans, and storefronts.

This is Dave Willacker’s circus BY LISA MURTHA

128 / CINCY OBSCURA 22

Inside Loveland Castle BY LAUREN FISHER

SPORTS

Insight and analysis on the Bengals.

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PAGE 61

Faces Meet the people behind some of the Queen City’s most notable and successful businesses and organizations.

BONUS FOR SUBSCRIBERS

Up For a Challenge? Save the date and take part in the Mightycause Cincinnati Gives Challenge presented by P&G, Western & Southern Financial Group, and Fort Washington Investment Advisors and hosted by Cincinnati Magazine. The Challenge goes live on November 29, the evening before Giving Tuesday. All nonprofits keep the money they raise during the campaign, which runs through December 9. Learn more about some of the participating charities in this issue of Cincinnati Gives, then visit cincinnatigives.org and support your favorite cause!

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I

CONTRIBUTORS

MICHELE DAY

I ’VE BEEN THINKING A LOT ABOUT HOW WE’LL REMEMBER 2021 IN THE FUTURE . IN many ways, we’ll probably consider this two-year pandemic period a black hole in our lives, when very little positive energy escaped the virus’s gravitational pull. Most of us don’t do nuance very well, and so our memories tend to be onedimensional: high school was horrible, college was great, our first job sucked, our second job was fun, the Big Red Machine was the highlight of our childhood. The pandemic likely will be recalled in similar black and white terms. It’s difficult and maybe disrespectful to argue that any good came out of a global pandemic that’s claimed 5 million lives. Especially if it sickened someone close to you, shut down your livelihood, or triggered a battle with depression or anxiety. Especially as COVID variants continue to ravage parts of this country and the world. But there’s no dispute that positive things happened throughout 2021. People got married, babies were born, students graduated, new businesses and careers took off. Scientists developed effective COVID vaccines in record time, which bodes well in fights against other diseases and future viruses. Companies changed business models on the fly and made changes they’d been afraid to or didn’t know they needed. Some people quit jobs they hated or sold their homes for a big profit. In the spirit of positivity, our annual Best of the City (page 36) highlights local people who started exciting new adventures, arts initiatives, businesses, communities, and movements in this pandemic year. It’s never easy to launch something new and capture the public’s attention, but to do it in 2021 with so much uncertainty? They’re worth celebrating. Come to think of it, maybe 2021 was the perfect year to try something new. We had more time on our hands and definitely needed distractions from the daily bad news. In the end, makers make, doers do, and creatives create, even in uncertain times. Creativity is their rock when storms of negativity or chaos howl around them. I’m thankful so many survived the damage this year.

J O H N F OX

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

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Writing about the pandemic’s impact on academia (page 56) hit especially close to home for Michele Day—the contributing writer has also spent the past 20 years teaching journalism at Northern Kentucky University. She was fascinated by how all her subjects experienced the pandemic differently. “We’re all in higher education but we have different world views,” Day says. “I realized how much I didn’t know about what was happening in other people’s classrooms.”

JACLYN YOUHANA GARVER Contributor Jaclyn Youhana Garver may live in Indiana, but she spends much of her time discovering and chatting with some of the most fashionable people right here in Cincinnati for Style Counsel (page 20). “I love that these sources are always ridiculously creative and have different takes and opinions on fashion,” Garver says. “One thought that’s come up a few times is not to worry about trends—it’s about what feels good to you. That’s an important message we can’t hear enough.”

LANCE ADKINS Freelancer photographer Lance Adkins can make just about anything look good. If he’s not out and about taking portraits, photographing food, or in the recording studio shooting live jam sessions, you’ll probably find him in the darkroom, where he prefers to develop film the old-fashioned way. This month, he hit up Yuca (page 110), Northern Kentucky’s hottest new brunch spot.


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A YEAR TO CELEBRATE 200 Cincinnati’s Jewish community marks its bicentennial with a series of events, including Hanukkah on Fountain Square. NATALIE CLARE

T

HE YEARLONG CELEBRATION OF

200 years of Jewish life in Cincinnati kicked off in September with theatrical and musical concerts, museum exhibitions about Jewish history and culture, artistic performances, and other events reflecting the community’s impact on the city. The centerpiece art program continues into January at the Skirball Museum in Clifton, and this month brings a lively Hanukkah event to Fountain Square. The bicentennial program welcomes “anybody and everybody,” says Brant Schulz, communications project manager at the Jewish Federation of Cincinnati, which organized the program in partnership with multiple cultural organizations and corporate sponsors. “I really encourage people to come out and be open to the idea of experiencing one of the region’s most vibrant, inclusive, and exciting cultures that they may not have before.” The opening of Chestnut Street Cemetery in the West End is generally considered the founding of Cincinnati’s Jewish community. In 1821, a Jewish immigrant passed away with wishes to be buried in accordance with cultural tradition, but there was no institution in Cincinnati to provide a proper burial. So the cemetery was CONTINUED ON P. 18 ILLUSTR ATIO N BY M A X I M U SI K

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DISPATCH

EVENTS

LIGHT UP NEW YEAR’S EVE

Party with the animals and the PNC Festival of Lights at Happy Zoo Year December 31. Included with Cincinnati Zoo admission, the event features a kid- and tired-adult-friendly early New Year’s Eve countdown. cincinnatizoo.org/events

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SPEAK EASY

ALL SIGNS POINT TO THE FUTURE Taking over as director of the American Sign Museum from founder Tod Swormstedt, Cynthia Kearns wants to remove any and all barriers to visiting the Camp Washington space—financial, linguistic, awareness, or understanding the collection. She joined the staff in 2019 after almost 20 years at the Taft Museum of Art, and says Swormstedt will now spend more time on the road looking at signs instead of sitting in meetings at the 20,000-squarefoot facility. How do you put your stamp on a place that is the life’s work of another person? Tod’s vision has been so focused on the physical space, collecting signs, and installation in the galleries. With that, he’s supportive of new ideas and new programs. From my first day, he’s said, “We don’t need any more ideas. Pick one and do it.” How do you lure visitors who might not think they have an interest in signs? There are so many ways to approach a place like this beyond the signs themselves: graphic design, technology, industrial trades, typography, history, pop culture.

No one discipline is more important than the other, and each provides a comfortable entry point. And if that doesn’t get them, then TikTok videos. How do you keep the collection alive? Preservation of signs is part of our mission. We would prefer to see a sign live its best life in its own neighborhood, then brought here as a final option. When we do receive new-to-us old signs, though, they’re shared on digital media, added to our online catalog, and displayed in restoration whenever possible. The museum is an integral part of the Camp Washington neighborhood that’s undergoing its own renaissance. What part do you play? The museum will celebrate its 10-year anniversary in Camp Washington in June 2022, and we are so thankful for the support from our neighbors. Giving back by being an advocate, a resource, a cheerleader, and a collaborator for businesses and residents is important to the museum and a role we hope to embrace. —BILL THOMPSON READ A LONGER CONVERSATION WITH CYNTHIA AT CINCINNATIMAGAZINE. COM

PH OTO G R A PHS BY J O N ATH A N W I LLI S

IM AG ERY CO U R TE S Y J E WISH CIN CIN N ATI B I C EN TEN NIA L / (SPE A K E A S Y ) TH E A M ERI C A N SI G N M U SEU M / (OT TER) CIN CIN N ATI ZO O/M A RK D U M O N T

established at Chestnut Street safety workers since 1842; the founding of the first Jewish Hospital in the U.S. to and Central Avenue, and today provide healthcare for Jews but also peoit remains the oldest Jewish cemetery west of the Allegheny Mountains. ple of every faith; the founding of HeThe cemetery was rededicated on brew Union College; the establishment September 26 to formally begin the biof Kahn’s Meat Packing in 1883; the centennial program, which continues founding of Syd Nathan’s King Records through October 2022. The ish Festival, Studio; and the relocation of Macy’s an arts and cultural event, took place headquarters to downtown Cincinnati. the same weekend at Washington Park Key bicentennial events currently in Over-the-Rhine and featured a contaking place include A Portrait of Jewish cert by Matisyahu. It was created as a Cincinnati: A Bicentennial Celebration at the Skirball Museum at Hebrew Union way to help “Jewish, Jew-ish, and culturally adjacent artists and arCollege, on display through tisans have a better platform January 30. Hanukkah will to engage with the Cincinbe celebrated December 5 nati community,” says Marie at Fountain Square with ice Krulewitch-Browne, who skating, bumper cars, and a serves on the bicentennial menorah lighting. “A Conexecutive committee. “We versation with Eva Schloss,” were also interested in creatL’Chaim a Holocaust survivor and Learn more at ing new and accessible entry the posthumous stepsister jewishcincy200.org. points for Jewish and nonof Anne Frank, is at the CinJewish residents and visitors to engage cinnati Museum Center on January 26, with and explore Jewish and Israeli arts marking the 77th anniversary of the liberation of Auschwitz. The Mayerson and culture.” Krulewitch-Browne sees the celJCC Jewish & Israeli Film Festival will be hosted at various locations in February. ebration as a way to recognize significant historical milestones. “The city of Schulz says the bicentennial program Cincinnati and many of the institutions comes at an interesting time in history. we know and love would look consider“A lot of what is going on in the world is ably different—and may not even exist negative now, and there’s been a lot of at all—had it not been for the resilient upheaval for a variety of reasons,” he says. “We can finally, though, take the last 200 and visionary Jewish immigrants who came here and decided to invest deeply years and celebrate all the strides that into this community,” she says. Some have been made and all the wonderful acof those institutions include the Fechcomplishments and contributions that heimer Brothers Company, which has Jewish members of Greater Cincinnati been manufacturing uniforms for public have made.”


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STYLE COUNSEL

Mahagany Shaw OCCUPATION: Tattoo Artist at Higher Love STYLE: “An ’80s movie doing a ’60s period piece” How would you describe your style? I like the ’50s through the ’80s the most. I watched a lot of older movies coming up. I love thrifting and antique shopping. Also crafting with my grandma at a young age, too, has influenced my style because it’s very kitschy and crafty. Do you make some of your own clothes? I started sewing maybe in June or July, so I’m very new at it. My grandma, she’s a quilter, so I’ve gotten quite a bit of fabric from her, but also thrifting. Before I got into tattooing, I was actually looking into fashion school. What made you go with tattooing instead? I got lucky and got an opportunity to become an apprentice. I’m glad that I chose to do tattooing, but I think doing stuff with fashion on the side is cool, too. I definitely want to get more into creating my own thing and upcycling vintage. Creating things in general—when you’re done, it’s a very accomplished feeling. Also, having a piece that’s oneof-a-kind that you made is cool, too. How many tattoos do you have? Somewhere between 50 and 60, but I’ve lost count. How do your tattoos fit into your style? Tattoos are a way of expressing myself. I’ve always been into art, and I like traveling to get tattooed, and I get tattooed by a lot of female artists, which is very important to me. When I wear outfits, I like to show off my tattoos. Do you have a favorite? I have a clown on my stomach. I’m super into clowns. Growing up, my mom worked at McDonald’s. The imagery of Ronald McDonald from my childhood has stuck with me, and my dad’s super into scary movies, so we bonded on that. I think it just reminds me of my parents, in a way. —JAC LY N YO U H A N A G A R V E R

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G LI ILSLTI AS P H O T POHG OR TAOPGHRS ABPYH JBOYN DA TE HV AY N W



HOMEGROWN

GOOD PRESS

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1

THERE’S A SIMPLICITY TO KRISTIN JOINER’S

greeting cards that makes the white space seem brighter, drawing closer attention to the quality of the paper and the color of the ink. On one, two cherry-red striped candy canes form a heart. On another, nine pastel candles sit atop the words “Happy Hanukkah.” And on a third, icy blue snowflakes drift around a Christmas greeting. The cards, handcrafted on an antique letter press from 1882, are part of the 2021 holiday line from Bess Paper Goods & Gifts, Joiner’s shop. Joiner, who lives above her Reading storefront, studied graphic design. But college included a halfsemester of letterpress, a relief printing technique that involves pressing an inked surface onto paper, sort of like a stamp, except with a tactile component—the pressing leaves its design in a shallow divot. “I thought it was awesome,” Joiner says. “When you’re an artsy person, you 2 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1

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tend to be quite tactile.” Joiner wanted a letterpress machine for years, but knew the devices tend to be expensive. Then, in 2008, she found out about a machine listed on Craigslist just 45 minutes away. And it was in her price range, too. “And that does not happen,” she says. “Usually, you have to freight it across the country. [The machine was] sitting in a barn, covered in dead bugs and spider webs.” Luckily, Joiner’s father is good with machines. He knew someone who could weld cast iron, and Joiner knew where to get new rollers. “I figured between the two of us, we could figure this out.” She spent that summer cleaning Bess—as in Bess the Letterpress, SEASON’S GREETINGS 1: Joiner at her 1882 letthe namesake of the terpress. shop—and learning 2: A collection of Joiner’s holiday cards. how to use her. 3: Letterpress blocks at Bess Paper Goods O ve r t h e yea rs , Bess has still traveled by freight a few times: to Bermuda, where Joiner lived for five years, then to Cincinnati, where Joiner, who’s originally from Wisconsin, moved in 2019. Today, Bess has pride of place in the shop, which doubles as the studio where Joiner makes her cards, paper flowers, illustrations, and nearly everything else sold at Bess Paper Goods. “I do quite a lot of commercial work, and it tends to be very messy,” she says. “I’m the type of person [who tries] a new craft every six months.” BESS PAPER GOODS, 321 W. BENSON ST., READING (513) 748-6955, BESSPAPERGOODS.COM

PHOTOGRAPHS (1,3) BY ODESSA JAMES PHOTOGRAPHY / (ALL OTHERS) COURTESY KRISTIN JOINER

HOW A 139-YEAR-OLD MACHINE GOT A NEW LIFE AT BESS PAPER GOODS. — J A C L Y N Y O U H A N A G A R V E R


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KING OF THE HILL A SOLAR-POWERED STUNNER IN PROSPECT HILL TAKES FULL ADVANTAGE OF ITS PERCH ABOVE THE CITY. DISTINCT IN ITS STEEP TERRAIN AND BREATHTAKING SKYLINE VIEWS, THE

Prospect Hill historic district is a hidden gem atop Over-theRhine. Historic houses in the neighborhood typically lean toward Italianate and Greek Revival styles, but newer construction still feels right at home on the hillside. Take this 2019 build on quiet Mulberry Street. Back when the first houses in the neighborhood were going up, the land was simply too steep and difficult for builders to work with, which resulted in odd, uneven spacing between lots, giving some lucky homeowners unbeatable views. But the location and the view are well worth the tricky terrain—a quick jaunt down a few sets of Cincinnati street steps will take you straight to Findlay Market and into the heart of Over-the-Rhine. Architects with Fold and Form designed the home as a sustainable urban oasis, powered by a series of barely noticeable rooftop solar panels that lend to the LEED certification of the property, which is tax abated until 2035. 2 4 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1

“Our biggest desire was to have a home that was functional for our family but in the heart of the city,” says owner Elea Kunze. “We wanted to fully embrace downtown living in a city we love.” Much of the home’s design relies on high-end modern finishes—like the towering black-frame windows and the subway tile in the primary bathroom—but the details feel timeless. A crisp kitchen with white cabinets and a deep blue island serves as the home’s central gathering place. Even with some of the city’s best dining within walking distance, you might just be tempted to stay in and make use of the stainless-steel appliances, farmhouse sink, and expansive eat-in island, perfect for entertaining. Speaking of entertaining, we can’t go without mentioning the outdoor space. On the ground level, you’ll find a fenced-in courtyard with stairs that lead up to a balcony, right off the kitchen. And on the third floor, the flex space makes fantastic use of both the indoors and out, with floor-to-ceiling sliding doors that open up to an airy patio offering panoramic city views.

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Dr. Know is Jay Gilbert, weekday afternoon deejay on 92.5 FM The Fox. Submit your questions about the city’s peculiarities at drknow@cincinnati magazine.com

DR. KNOW

about the long-gone Oakley Race Track. It was the area’s main attraction in the late 19th century, and it encircled the precise area of your curiosity. All of Oakley’s numbered avenues were created right there after the track closed and subdivided in 1907. But why did the numbers start at 28? Let us now gently unfold a map from 1869. Aha! Southwest Ohio was originally segmented into numbered squares, and most of what became Oakley was in Square 28, with lots numbered 28 thru 37. Bingo! There’s no O-28 on a Bingo card, but this seems to be a winner. We’ll just assume that those extra streets, 43rd and 44th, were mapped late in the martini lunch.

Q+ A

Every time a Skyline Chili commercial comes on, my mom reminds us that the song “It’s Skyline Time” comes from the 1950s hit “Twilight Time.” But she also says the doo-wop group who sang it got busted in Cincinnati with prostitutes, and it ruined their career. Is her memory right? —IT’S JAILTIME TIME DEAR JAIL:

There’s a series of number-named streets in Oakley, 28th thru 34th Avenues. Why do they start at 28? I’m pretty sure no lower-numbered streets ever existed. How come they were named this way? Was it somebody’s 28th birthday? —SORRY, WRONG NUMBERS DEAR WRONG:

It’s worse than you think. Oakley not only designated these streets as 28 thru 34 (two were later renamed), but 28th Avenue once connected with two others: 43rd and 44th. Was someone in Oakley government playing with Bingo balls during a martini lunch? The Doctor, after diligently rummaging through musty local documents, found something that suggests an answer. But first, let’s talk

2 6 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1

Ten days after the Beatles sang on the Ed Sullivan Show, they were lounging in a Miami hotel. But 10 days after the Platters sang on the Ed Sullivan Show, they were lounging in Cincinnati police custody. They’d done a show in Newport and later were arrested with four undressed young women in a Cincinnati hotel. The charges were aiding and abetting prostitution— not exactly a career boost in 1959. In case you don’t know, the Platters were Black. Three of the women were white. Maybe, just maybe, that had something to do with hotel staff calling the cops. The subsequent trial confirmed that the women, all adults, were not prostitutes. Everyone was acquitted, but the Platters never saw the Top 10 again. Like some platters served at Skyline, these Platters were a five-way: four men and one woman (she wasn’t around durILLUSTR ATIO N S BY L A R S LEE TA RU


ing the incident). “Twilight Time” was one of their many Number 1 hits. Skyline Chili, which adapted the song as their jingle in 1986, can hardly remember a time when they weren’t Cincinnati’s Number 1.

When I’m on the highway and see an “endangered adult” notice on the electronic sign, I don’t see instructions for what to do. If I know something about the person being sought, is it enough of an emergency to call 911? Some other number? The sign doesn’t say. Shouldn’t it? —WHO YA GONNA CALL

APRIL 20 - MAY 1, 2022

DEAR GONNA:

Even if you are driving our highways at the legal speed—far be it from us to suggest that you might not be— the amount of time to read and comprehend messages as you zoom past Ohio’s electronic signs is fleeting. If something important is being displayed, the State of Ohio wants you to absorb the message. That means as few words as possible; the signs have only three lines with 17 characters each. By the way, that’s why a message with the word “Xmas” doesn’t mean ODOT is waging a war on Christmas. But the State of Ohio, you may have noticed, very much wants all drivers to avoid fumbling for their phones. Accordingly, there is no prompting that might prod a driver into distraction. Someone driving while suffering from dementia is absolutely an emergency, so do call 911 if you know something. Just don’t create a new emergency while doing it. Finding an endangered adult will allow the signs to quickly revert back to something like “Only Xmas Trees Should Be Lit, Not Drivers.” Season’s whatever, everyone.

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LIVING IN CIN BY JAY GILBERT

Damn You for Being a Friend

I

I THOUGHT I KNEW MY LIFELONG BUDDY. I DIDN’T. I RECENTLY LOST MY OLDEST FRIEND, SOMEONE I’D KNOWN SINCE WE WERE 10 YEARS OLD. It’s my first experience with the death of someone who was close but not family. The most painful thing about it isn’t that he died; the end had been in view for a while. Much harder to deal with are the secrets I’ve since learned about him, disturbing things that made me realize I didn’t know my old friend at all. A darker, meaner, unstable person was hiding behind the goofy jokester I’d hung around with my entire life. Finding this out has left me feeling foolish, like the victim of an investment scam. Let’s say my friend’s name was Matt, because for reasons that will become apparent I’ve changed some details of our story. Hell, the story isn’t even ours anymore. It’s his, with me scribbled in the margins. I thought we’d shared our lives, but our lives cracked 2 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1

apart when I wasn’t looking. We both fathered two children, for example, though I never robbed mine. Matt opened credit card accounts in his kids’ names, maxed them out, and ruined their credit when they were still teenagers. Among the many things I didn’t know about Matt—his family has given me permission to disclose everything you will read here—was that he was a reckless spender, always in the hole and always shafting someone. What kind of guy robs his kids? Not Matt, not the guy I knew! I mean, there was that time at Penn State when I rescued him from flunking out by helping him finish his overdue term project. He gratefully said Hey, I’m taking you out to a big dinner, buddy! Then when the check came, he said Whoops, I forgot my wallet. That was a funny story until it became chronic. Other seemingly isolated anecdotes have turned into a list of symptoms. There was the time soon after I’d moved to Cincinnati when Matt came to visit, with no notice. Just a knock on the door. “I beg your pardon, can you help me find the Gilbert residence?” He was always opening with a joke. Only now do I know that impromptu travel was his typical way of ducking consequences from somewhere else. We had to kick him out after several days. It’s not clear today whether his sudden Cincinnati trip was triggered by a crisis of debt, romance, or worse. (Warning: The anecdotes ahead get worse.) But I’m sure now it wasn’t just an urge to see his childhood friend. OUR FRIENDSHIP STARTED IN PHILADELphia. We slightly knew each other in fourth grade until one Saturday at a department store; my mother had taken me there to see a local TV kid-show host showing cartoons. Crowds of unfamiliar kids made me nervous, but then I saw someone I knew: Matt! What a relief! Big, extroverted Matt impressed me. He was funny, and the other kids at school seemed to like him. Afterwards, our mothers agreed to have us spend more time together. And so we started hanging out at each other’s houses, which continued for more than 50 years. By middle school I was creating little extravaganzas on my home tape recorder, often featuring Matt. Our co-starring conI L L U S T R AT I O N BY TA N G YAU H O O N G


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LIVING IN CIN tinued as the years passed: the same summer camp, the same after-school clubs, and then Penn State. After I moved to Cincinnati, we stayed in touch and attended each other’s family milestones. We were so much alike, it seemed. I never witnessed Matt’s hair-trigger temper that broke furniture and flesh, his habitual road rage and suspended driver’s licenses that were routinely ignored, his disappearances, his thefts, his crimes. In 2009, Matt was arrested and pled guilty to downloading and distributing child pornography. Here in Cincinnati the story never reached me. (My other Philly friends, I’ve discovered, felt it wasn’t their place to tell me.) Matt’s lawyer got him off with a hefty fine, a long probation, and a lifetime club membership as a registered sex offender. Contact with minors was forbidden, so Matt suddenly stopped coaching little girls’ softball and soccer teams, something he’d done for years. My professional career has largely centered on audio, thanks to those childhood hours with the tape recorder. Consequently I’ve been able to do personal favors making audio tributes for events like weddings and birthdays, and some of these were for Matt. There’s one recording I made that shows my perception of Matt versus the reality behind the curtain. It was for his daughter’s wedding; let’s call her Rachel. During the father-daughter dance, heartwarming soundbites of Rachel at 2 years old were peppered throughout Billy Joel’s “Goodnight, My Angel.” A perfect Hallmark moment, right? Behind the curtain, though, was this: Rachel didn’t know about the recording because Matt hadn’t spoken to her in weeks. Such childish anger was nothing new. This time it was because Rachel had forbidden Matt from inviting a family friend to the wedding—someone who had once groped her as a teenager. Also because she’d confronted Matt about several incest porn links she’d recently seen on the home computer. And that jolt echoed the time she’d stumbled on his videos of parent/child porn. At this point, even though I’ve changed names and blurred other details, I must hurriedly skate past the particulars about Matt’s sexual abuse of his daughter at a very young age. (I am required to add “al-

leged.”) It’s bad stuff. Matt’s family has apologized to me for unloading this dripdrip of disturbing history and “ruining” my memories of him, but I don’t need an apology. I’m grateful to them for telling me and for allowing me to tell you. Matt once gifted me a large coffee mug, featuring the face—not a photo, but the actual shaped head—of Joe Paterno, Penn State’s beloved football coach. He was Matt’s No. 1 hero, a winner with a reputation for building character in his players. Sadly, the mighty legend collapsed later when Paterno was fired in disgrace. Like me, he’d been blind to the misdeeds of a trusted old Penn State buddy. His assistant coach, Jerry Sandusky, after years of mentoring child athletes, went to prison for sexually abusing several of them. People said Paterno should have known, maybe even did know. Matt, though, stood firm behind his hero, saying Paterno had been football-focused and innocent. Should I take that stance as a shadow defense of me? UNTIL THESE PAINFUL TRUTHS BEGAN to emerge, people outside of Matt’s inner circle knew nothing about his secrets. My own inner circle, though, as far back as summer camp and college, sensed something was wrong. Some begged off group events if Matt was going to be there; he was just too much. In my two marriages, both spouses lost patience with Matt’s clownish behavior and wondered why the hell I kept our relationship going. Here is my answer: I felt like I owed him. That day in the department store when I was a shy kid, he started loosening me up. He seemed to have all the answers. I was his admiring puppy. Over time I realized that our roles were slowly reversing, that Matt was becoming the puppy. I learned more normal ways to relate to people and achieve goals, but he didn’t. We both got into college, but I had to save him from flunking out. We both wanted a radio career, but I found a real job while Matt’s big microphone gig was back at the department store, making promotional announcements over the Muzak. He did get corporate sales jobs later on, plus the requisite marriage, parenthood, and mortgage. The mortgage, by the way, was fore-

3 0 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1

closed last year. Matt hid it from his wife until the last minute. She left him last summer. In Matt’s final months he never told me any of this, nor did he say a word about his sinking medical condition. Drip-drip. Our bond now feels tragically superficial, a fake closeness that in truth was more distant than our cities. Our comfort level was set at avoiding the uncomfortable. Still, we must have had something. We laughed a hell of a lot. We sang harmony at talent shows. Traded reckless joyrides with our new driver’s licenses. From high school through middle age, we mailed the same stupid birthday card back and forth. It was Matt who agreed to wait in line for hours at the record store until they opened the first box of Sgt. Pepper’s LPs. Matt who once dropped everything during his big family weekend to help me with my own family emergency. In Matt’s neighborhood, there are women today who say he helped them gain confidence as young girls when he coached them in sports. What is the tipping point where someone’s admirable deeds collapse beneath the unforgiveable ones? Matt’s lifelong jesting and increasingly sad need for laughs illustrate the observation that “comedy is how you cry.” Clearly, he was already crying when we met at age 10. It’s a safe bet that his abusive behavior did not begin with him. These things usually have histories, sometimes generations long. I’ll never know what horrors may have visited Matt as a child or why he seemed unable to escape them, but here is one more addition to the list of things we had in common: the carrying of dark family secrets. My mother’s childhood included abuse by a relative, and she married someone— my father—who later molested my sister. Matt and I were too young to understand our surroundings or to know how to share tears, so we shared laughs. There are people in families where abuse didn’t begin with them who nevertheless make sure it ends with them. I wish Matt had done that. I wish at some point he would have grown tired of his demons and reached out to a person he could trust with the truth. Someone who’d known him a long time and could read him well enough to see he needed help. I wish a true friend had been there for him.


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Come One, Come All UNDER DAVE WILLACKER’S BIG TOP, THERE’S ROOM FOR EVERYONE.

EVERY TUESDAY NIGHT, WEATHER PERMITTING, GOLF MANOR’S VOLUNTEER PARK “COMES alive,” says Dave Willacker, which is ironic considering part of this resurrection involves a 35-foot-tall rotating metal contraption called the “wheel of death.” Willacker’s telling me this as he climbs into the lower chamber of the wheel and begins running in place, hamster-like, while simultaneously explaining the physics of how this thing works. Essentially, says Willacker, if this structure, which looks like a smaller version of the old salt-and-pepper carnival rides, wasn’t currently undergoing repairs, it would be able to hold two people—one in each circular chamber—and they would each be able to spin their own individual wheels and do tricks while the entire contraption was spinning as well. Of course that’s not the only thing happening in the lively Tuesday night practices. The main draw, says Willacker, are the aerialists, who inevitably attract a crowd—fire3 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1

men from the municipal building across the street, a neighbor with wine and a lawn chair. Maybe even Leonard, who’s 93, lives across the street, and has spent abundant time on his front porch ever since the Cincinnati Circus Company moved in. If you haven’t guessed by now, Dave Willacker is no ordinary guy and his is no ordinary job. Fifteen years ago he was a single dad, working as a high school religion teacher by day, returning circus-related phone calls during class breaks and pursuing his passion—juggling, theater, and entertaining—after hours. Today, he’s married, has seven kids, and is the founder and Ringmaster of the Cincinnati Circus Company, a circus, entertainment-for-hire, and corporate events company with a nationwide presence that’s headquartered in Golf Manor. The small home-turned-office on his Wiehe Road property is barely visible thanks to the various show trailers often parked on the front lawn, but the real secret here is the 15,000-square-foot warehousestyle building out back. This space houses an aerial training facility (with classes open to the public), plus full-service wood and mechanical shops. It also houses likely the largest and most eclectic collection of circus and entertainment paraphernalia in the tri-state, from Willacker’s massive collection of amusement park rides (110 in all, including the mission-to-Mars rockets and turtle parade rides from Coney Island and a fully operational boat ride from New York’s Conneaut Lake Park), to vintage 1980s arcade games; a giant martini glass, big enough for a person to sit in; a “wine bicycle” resembling something out of Willy Wonka’s imagination; hundreds of costumes (including “the largest collection of stilt walker costumes, possibly anywhere,” says Willacker); DJ equipment; and two Roman-style chariots for racing. Some of these props are standard circus fare; many are the brainchild of Willacker himself, as he’s expanded his business to fit his clients’ needs. When asked how he thinks of incorporating things like wine bicycles and Roman chariots into his company’s shows, Willacker says, simply, “I have free time.” IN REALITY, THOUGH, FREE TIME MIGHT BE the one thing Willacker doesn’t really have. After picking up juggling in college, that hobby morphed into a side hustle for anyP HP HO OT OT OG RG RA PA HP HB YB YJ OJ ENRA ET M H AY NK RWAI LMLEI RS


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PERSON OF INTEREST one who would hire him—birthday parties, church festivals, River Downs. Soon, he added stilt walking and balloon animals to his repertoire, and found himself hiring out other performers as well. Finally, in 1999, Willacker incorporated the Cincinnati Circus Company after “a buddy called and said: ‘Dave, what you’re running is a business; it’s not a hobby anymore.’ ” Now, says Willacker, “this is all I’ve done for 10 years or more.” The company currently employs 75 people, from jugglers to aerialists to “elephants” (the humans who do all the heavy lifting for set up, tear down, and storage, nicknamed for the real-life animals who do such jobs at a traditional circus). But one person in particular is pivotal to the operation, says Willacker, and it’s not him. “Everyone here is replaceable except Al [Allert],” the retired auto mechanic who worked fixing cruisers for 20 years at the Los Angeles Police Department and who today keeps everything from Willacker’s delivery trucks to the wheel of death run-

ning smoothly. Also invaluable is Dennis Manley, the woodworker who was a “college professor of sculpture, art, and carpentry,” says Willacker, and who has now built everything from magic illusion kits to a circus wagon and popcorn carts. Good people at every level are key to a successful show, says Willacker, but one thing in particular earns a company true circus cred: a flying trapeze. Even though Willacker had already “brought Cincinnati the first aerial silk rig many years ago,” he says (aerial silks, also known as “fabric acrobatics,” are the basis for Cirque du Soleil), “no one in the circus world would talk to us because they thought we were just an aerial studio. Once we did trapeze, they’re like: ‘Now you’ve got a circus.’ ” Wheel of death, chariot racing, flying trapeze—these are the makings of insurance companies’ nightmares. Sure enough, confirms Willacker, insurance is hard to find. In reality, though, his motto is: “We do everything we can to make it safe.” This

is why Willacker doesn’t allow hair hanging or fire breathing. “I have four buddies who lit their faces on fire,” he says of the latter. Of the former, he simply notes that once he found out how it worked, he decided it wouldn’t be part of his shows. When asked how he manages to make a circus exciting with such a heavy emphasis on safety, he laughs and says,“We’re in Cincinnati, Ohio. It doesn’t take much.” As he walks past a full-size circus tent folded neatly on a shelf, a stack of unicycles, the prop box for a “human Zoltar” kit, and a musical bubble wagon, Willacker notes that he doesn’t do carnivals, because those are money-driven and “I’m art driven.” Case in point: both those aerial silks and the props he points out next, which are made to be worn by a “living statue” of a U.S. soldier from the Vietnam War, including a rubber duck training rifle and an authentic army uniform that “went to Vietnam and back” during the war (only military veterans are permitted to wear it, says Willacker). The

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statue debuted on Memorial Day 1997. That day, Willacker noticed a group of veterans standing quietly off in the distance, watching. Eventually, one came up and spoke to him. The man confessed he had a really hard time looking at the performer, because the “statue” essentially took him straight back in time. WILLACKER’S DREAM IS TO SOMEDAY GET some land and open a small amusement park. If COVID hadn’t happened, in fact, he might be doing that now. In March 2020 he was poised for his biggest year ever, employing 120 people. Then the pandemic hit. “We still had equipment in the field,” he says, but by March 14, “every phone call was a cancellation. By 4 p.m. I laid off the entire staff.” The thing about circus people, though, says Willacker, is they stick together. A big chunk of the staff volunteered their time instead of getting paid, because, they told him, what else were they going to do? Willacker spent part of the lockdowns

helping teach his oldest child, Isaac, how to weld; within months, Isaac had built a 20foot long by 8-foot wide by 11.5-foot tall red-and-black-striped trailer for the sideshows, with a fold-up sign on top. To make rent, “we mowed people’s lawns, we painted places, did trash removal for people gutting houses—I scraped my way through.” Now he’s back up to 75 employees, all of whom get free on-the-job training (in acrobatics, juggling, acting, unicycling— you name it). “People don’t come in with skills. They come in with ambition,” says Willacker. “Half or more come in thinking they’ll be the star.” But circus is hard, he says, adding it’s not for everybody. And not a lot of people want to start out at the bottom, which at the Cincinnati Circus Company is as a juggler. The ones who stay, though, really put in the hours. As a result, the Circus has reach both far and wide. Early last fall, a group of his performers and equipment traveled to Texas. Willacker himself has traveled as far away

as Washington state and Hawaii, and still writes for and performs in the murder mystery parties and game shows he puts on for corporate events, as well as a comedy sideshow. But doing all of that while simultaneously running the company can be a challenge, says Willacker, who noted in late August that “I’m out every weekend for the next five weeks.” Today, his original juggling clubs and balls—the things that started it all—are encased in a custom wooden box hanging on his office wall, slightly worn but still in great shape. Sitting beneath them on an overcast summer Monday, Willacker takes a moment to reflect. “At the end of the day, the question is: What did you leave?” This ringmaster’s hope is that people will say “Dave left the world a better place and was a good father. None of the rest matters.” Still, he does admit wondering “what my kids will think long after I’m gone. I wonder if any of our kids will do circus. I want them to be able to.”

CINDERELLA book by Joseph McDonough lyrics by David Kisor music by Fitz Patton

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OF THE

TASTE THE RAINBOW A selection of slushie drinks from Frosthaus Covington.


37

Cincinnati Magazine has celebrated the great people, shops, restaurants, trends, and services in this city for decades. The past two years have been like nothing we’ve ever known, but that hasn’t stopped our neighbors from dreaming up entirely novel ways to feed us, bring us together, indulge our love of retail therapy, showcase art, and support each other.

By Lauren Fisher, John Fox, Aiesha D. Little, Sam Rosenstiel, and Amanda Boyd Walters Photograph by Andrew Doench

With this year’s Best of the City, we celebrate the people who took the leap and got started over (roughly) the past year. What’s new? Plenty.


PLAYGROUND

Common Ground Playground,

Makino Park

AT THE COMMON Ground Playground in Mason’s Makino Park, children swing, climb, and whirl on a variety of brightly colored play structures. Not so unusual. But look closer, and you’ll see something special. That extra big swing allows friends to swing together, face to face. The blue Sway Fun glider is wheelchair-accessible. This inclusive playground provides fun for all children. Mason mom Rachel Kopfler of the Mason Parks Foundation led the charge to build Common Ground, a project born from her own experience. She noticed that one of her triplets, born with a spinal cord defect, kept up with his two typical siblings while they were playing, finding his way as they went. She wondered if other kids could benefit from the same experience, and after years of fund-raising—including a $500,000 gift from machining manufacturer Makino—the Common Ground Playground became a reality. Local parents, therapists, and even makers of inclusive playground equipment weighed in on the playground’s design, which lays out like a butterfly, with four distinct play areas, two on each wing. Kids can explore texture and movement, build their balance skills, practice social play, and explore music together. There’s a kid-size zipline, and a special mini-pitch, built with the support of the FC Cincinnati Foundation, that allows kids of all abilities to get in the game. And all of this is just the beginning. The Mason Parks Foundation is

working toward building Adaptive Ball Fields at Makino Park. The fields will serve the Mason Challenger League, which allows youth with physical and developmental challenges to play Little League baseball. The league won a $25,000 grant from State Farm’s Neighborhood Assist program to get the project started. A space where everyone can play together? Game on. 6100 Kopfler Court, Mason

P H O T O G R A P H S ( T O P ) C O U R T E S Y C I T Y O F M A S O N / ( B O T T O M ) B Y T I M B AY E R


39 STATUE

Marian Spencer Statue Marian Spencer was a major champion of civil rights and civic engagement. She integrated Coney Island and the Cincinnati Public Schools, and was the first African American city councilwoman and the first woman president of the Cincinnati NAACP chapter. Her contributions to Cincinnati were memorialized in bronze this summer when a statue of her was unveiled at Smale Riverfront Park, adding one more first to her record: the first woman to be represented in sculpture in the city’s history. Though Spencer didn’t live to see the work (she died in 2019), her legacy lives on for future generations. cincinnatiparks.com/river-parks/smale-riverfront-park DOG PARK

Newport Dog Park

WAY TO LIGHT THE CITY

Cincinnati’s Municipal Solar Array The city of Cincinnati installed more than 300,000 solar panels on about 1,000 acres of land near Sardinia in partnership with Hecate Energy, a Chicago-based developer of solar, wind, and energy storage projects. The city paid no up-front construction costs, instead agreeing to purchase electricity at a fixed rate for the next 20 years; that’s expected to power 100 percent of the city’s buildings as well as homeowners who opt into the Cincinnati Electric Aggregation Program. The array is scheduled to go live this month. cincinnati-oh.gov/ oes

Located behind the Newport branch of the Campbell County Public Library, this new dog park features plenty of areas for your furry friend to roll and romp. The park also features a small dog area and lies on nearly an acre of land, perfect if you’re looking to keep some space between your pup and others. It also features benches and a water fountain for after playtime. With its prime location near the interstate, this park also serves surrounding communities Bellevue, Dayton, Ft. Thomas, and even visitors from across the river. 901 E. Sixth St., Newport, facebook.com/NewportDogPark FINDLAY MARKET FEATURE

Jane’s Jane’s has woven itself so tightly into the Findlay Market ecosystem, you’d swear it’s been there the whole time. And in some manner, it has—at least in spirit. The outdoor bar on the Elm Street side of the market is named for Jane Findlay, who, along with her husband, donated the land upon which Cincinnati’s favorite market is built. The venue is a partnership between the Corporation for Findlay Market and Karrikin Spirits, but you’ll find a smorgasbord of beers from local craft breweries on tap rotation throughout the year. 1801 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, findlaymarket.org/janes SPORTS AWARD

Bengals Ring of Honor The Bengals’ innovative founder and original head coach Paul Brown and legendary offensive tackle Anthony Muñoz were the first Bengals announced as members of the new Ring of Honor. Fans later voted to include Super Bowl XIV quarterback Ken Anderson and record-holding cornerback Ken Riley, who is tied for the fifth-most interceptions in NFL history, as part of the inaugural class. On September 30, the Bengals presented each man and/or their families with a tiger-stripe-lined Ring of Honor jacket and unveiled their names emblazoned across the east facade of Paul Brown Stadium before a nearly-soldout Thursday night crowd. bengals.com/team/ring-of-honor CONCERT VENUE

PromoWest Pavilion at Ovation With Riverbend, the ICON Music Center, and others, our region is becoming a crowded field for concert venues. This indoor-outdoor facility in Newport is a big win for the Northern Kentucky music scene and in its first season has already attracted big-name acts like Kesha, The Killers, Lady A, The Avett Brothers, and more. The venue boasts an outdoor capacity of 7,000 and indoor capacity of 2,700, hosts ample parking, and is located within walking distance of dining options at Newport on the Levee and near upcoming Ovation development. PromoWest Pavilion at Ovation is sure to become a favorite for summer concerts and big-name acts. 101 W. Fourth St., Newport, (859) 900-2294, promowestlive. com/cincinnati/promowest-pavilion-at-ovation BOUTIQUE HOTEL

The Pickle Factory Boutique Hotel Fancy a stay in a pickle factory? In a past life, this towering brick structure was the Wenzel Building, used in its heyday as a soda bottling plant, then as a pickle factory that shared space with the African American Odd Fellows organization. It changed hands for years until local rental company Neat Suites rescued the crumbling building, transforming it into The Pickle Factory Boutique Hotel. Today, you can book a stay in one of eight rooms with themes like “Neon Lights,” “Cigars & Bourbon,” and “Odd Fellows Hall,” a nod to the building’s storied history. 13 Tobacco Alley, Covington, picklefactory.guesty bookings.com

I C O N BY E M I V I L L AV I C E N C I O


MURALS

Black Box Artist Michael Coppage unveiled his Black Box project by installing 13 photo murals of Black men, including himself, on a 21c Museum Hotel wall along Gano Alley downtown. Each life-size image shows a man wearing a black shirt with phrases often perceived to be negative (Black Sheep, Black Ball, Black List, Blackout); Coppage’s shirt says Black Man. QR codes on the murals link to his podcast interviews with each photo subject. Coppage installed Black Box at two locations in New York City in October and served as a visiting artist and scholar at UC’s DAAP School of Art in November. michaelcoppage.com

ARCADE

BIG CHILL

Wondercade

Frosthaus Covington

For a while, it seemed like new video game arcades were only opened in the “cooler” neighborhoods in the city (looking at you, Over-the-Rhine and Northside). But this summer, Wondercade brought some of that cool to Westwood. Opened by Westwooders Bill and Leslie Rich, the arcade showcases retro cabinet games, pinball machines, and contemporary consoles for all-ages gameplay. Play all you want for $8 (minors have to hit the bricks after 9 p.m.) or rent the space for a private party and have the games all to yourself. Either way, you’ll have a great time. 3143 Harrison Ave., Westwood, (513) 3890000, wondercadecincy.com MOVIE THEATER

City Base Cinema While the COVID-19 crisis has changed certain aspects of the moviegoing experience, those who enjoy the sensory overload of watching a film on the big screen got a new option this year—City Base Cinemas. Part of the mixed-used development known as The Kenwood Collection, City Base offers 12 screens of the latest releases as well as two virtual reality rooms and a bar. Kick back in one of the heated recliner seats and enjoy a draft beer or glass of wine with your flick. 5901 E. Galbraith Rd., Suite 200, Kenwood, (513) 743-7159, citybasecinemas.com MULTISPOT RESTAURANT

Oakley Kitchen Food Hall What’s better than one restaurant? Eight restaurants. Oakley Kitchen Food Hall—which finally opened in the old Duck Creek Antique Mall space this summer after three years of planning and delays—has given foodies more cuisines to love. From the New Orleans comfort food of Jimmie Lou’s to the scrumptious Mediterranean fare of Olive Tree, this food hall allows you to snag meals from multiple eateries at once. We recommend you wear your sweatpants for comfort—you’ll need the room when you gorge yourself. 3715 Madison Rd., Oakley, oakley-kitchen.com BIKE TRAIL

Salem Road to Sutton Avenue Connector The Salem Road to Sutton Avenue section of the Ohio River Trail opened last May, connecting Mt. Washington and Anderson Township for Cincinnati’s bikers. The new route, part of which utilizes bike lanes along Riverside Drive and Kellogg Avenue, also connects Anderson Township to the planned 34-mile CROWN bike trail project. That means riders could start their trek at downtown’s Smale Riverfront Park and take the trail as far as New Richmond. P H OTO G R A P H S BY ( TO P ) C AT I E V I OX / ( B OT TO M ) A N D R E W D O E N C H

If Eishaus is the fun, spaghetti-icecream-loving kid we’ve grown to know and love, Frosthaus has emerged as its grown-up, even eis-ier sister. The focus here is on frozen, fruity drinks, but don’t snooze on the small bites. The menu here is steeped in German tradition—so much so that some of the dishes come straight from the recipe box of the owners’ Oma. Have a friend tag along to share a basket of goetta bites, or bring the whole squad to taste every color of the boozy slushie rainbow. 115 Park Pl., Covington, frosthauscov.com


41 SUPPORT FOR MENTAL HEALTH

Madi’s House After Steve Raleigh, longtime chief meteorologist at WCPO Channel 9, and his wife, Julie, lost their 24-year-old daughter Madison to suicide, they founded Madi’s House as a community center for young adults struggling with addiction or mental illness. A full-time staff hosts art classes, games, movie nights, workouts, wellness programs, and events in Western Hills as an alternative to empty free time, which the Raleighs say contributed to their daughter’s issues. Madi’s House announced it will renovate a 7,600-square-foot mansion in Mt. Airy, donated by Bon Secours Mercy Health, to provide additional services and programs. madishousecincy.org

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NEWPORT ON THE LEVEE North American Properties, which acquired the struggling Levee in 2018, welcomed guests back last summer after extensive renovations. Improvements include the Bridgeview Box Park, composed of bars housed in shipping containers, a huge LED screen, new communal spaces, a Third Street garage entrance and new valet loop, fresh signage, and a bold new paint job. 1 Levee Way, Newport, (859) 2910550, newporton thelevee.com

DUTCH’S Brad Bernstein, the chef/owner of Oakley’s Red Feather Kitchen, acquired this Hyde Park institution after it shuttered in 2020. With a renovated space and revamped menu focusing on sandwiches and salads, Dutch’s reopened in July with the addition of the adjoining Red Feather Larder, offering guests a chance to purchase the same fresh ingredients served up in the beloved eatery. 3378 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, (513) 407-8449, dutchscincy.com

PHOTOGRAPH BY SOSIUKEN /STOCK . ADOBE .COM

CINTAS CENTER TECH UPGRADES A $3 million investment in Cintas Center tech is sure to have Xavier fans leaping out of their seats. Completed this fall, the new center-hung HD video scoreboard is 2.5 times the size of the old one. The project also included new graphics systems and HD cameras that will boost stream performance for Musketeers soccer and baseball games, too. 1624 Musketeer Dr., Evanston, (513) 745-3428

SHANGHAI ON ELM The popular fusion restaurant Shanghai Mama’s closed suddenly in 2020 after its building was purchased. It wasn’t long, however, before the beloved downtown eatery was reborn a few blocks away as Shanghai on Elm. While it opened for carryout only in February, the late-night dining room is now open and still serves many of its longtime regulars’ favorite Asian dishes. 700 Elm St., downtown, (513) 906-7000, shanghaionelm@ gmail.com


OUTDOOR DINING

Streateries LAST SUMMER, WHEN REStaurants were struggling to fill seats because of the pandemic, the City of Cincinnati and the Cincinnati Center City Development Corp. (3CDC) swooped in to help eateries and landlords provide temporary outdoor seating in downtown and Over-theRhine. “We heard from those businesses that it was hugely important to them in terms of capacity, and we felt it added an extra level of vibrancy to the street,” Joe Rudemiller, 3CDC’s vice president of marketing and communications, told us back in the spring. “Having people walking around—it added some liveliness during a difficult year.” With a $2.2 million budget contribution and additional grant funding, city officials were able to make the changes necessary to add permanent outdoor dining to the landscape in the form of “streateries.” Through a mixture of parklets (which enhanced the restaurants’ curb appeal with wooden barriers, railings, and planters), sidewalk bump-outs (like those at City Bird, The Eagle, and Quan Hapa), and partial street closures, the project provided additional outdoor seating for customers who were sick of takeout and wanted to get back some semblance of normalcy. The first phase of the project had created patios for 70 businesses throughout downtown and Over-the-Rhine by May.

While it has its detractors—particularly those who say that it takes away parking for residents, service workers, and other business owners in a neighborhood that is already struggling with parking limitations—overall, the project has been seen as a success. And we’ll likely see more streateries popping up in the future: City council has approved funding for more of them and 3CDC has vetted its next round of applicants. PODCAST

Urban Roots Launched this summer by Deqah Hussein-Wetzel, a local historic preservationist and urban planner, and New York–based journalist Vanessa Quirk, Urban Roots unearthed Queen City Black history in every captivating episode. “We are strong believers that podcasts are a powerful public history tool that has started to change the game for both historic and cultural preservation,” Hussein-Wetzel says. The duo is currently working on more stories about people of color from around the world, so be on the lookout for season two soon. urbanistmedia.org/ about-urban-roots

P H OTO G R A P H S BY C AT I E V I OX / I C O N S BY E M I V I L L AV I C E N C I O


43 MENU ADDITION

Tickle Pickle Fries As we’ve noted many times before, Tickle Pickle’s burgers are amazing (try the Red Hot Chili Peppers—you’ll love it, we promise). So how could they get even better? With a side of fries. This spring, the burger joint announced that it would add spuds to the menu and the masses rejoiced. Owner Lea Dickman and her husband, Ray, remodeled the kitchen to accommodate a deep fryer and voila, you get crispy, flavorful fries to go with your mouth-watering burger. 4176 Hamilton Ave., Northside, (513) 954-4003, ordertickle.com BREWERY EXPANSION

Nine Giant Fermentorium VIDEO STORE

Free Blockbusters REINCARNATION

Bread Bar @ Giminetti Baking Co. Giminetti Baking Co. temporarily closed its small retail space last winter, but reopened with gusto over the summer, branding the revamped eatery the Bread Bar after hiring New York pastry chef Cory Colton. Whether you’re grabbing a meal (like the spicy Chicken Parm Diavolo sandwich) or a snack (the almond croissant drizzled with Nutella), the cozy space and its carb-heavy menu is a shining addition to the Walnuts Hills foodie landscape. 2900 Gilbert Ave., Walnut Hills, (513) 751-7655, giminetti.com

CONEY ISLAND ATTRACTION

Challenge Zone Summer days at the pool are all about relaxing, but who could resist the challenge of a new obstacle course? The Challenge Zone, the largest Aquaglide pool obstacle course in the country, opened this season at Coney Island. It features two floating courses side-by-side and more than 150 feet of slides, monkey bars, balance beams, and other obstacles in the deep end of Sunlite Pool, perfect for a splash-filled dash to the finish. 6201 Kellogg Ave., Anderson Twp., (513) 232-8230, coneyislandpark.com

P H OTO G R A P H BY A N D R E W D O E N C H / I L LU S T R AT I O N BY S U P E R TOT TO

The video rental shop of the ’90s is seeing a big resurgence—and this time, without pesky late fees. Similar to free library boxes you may have spotted around Cincinnati’s neighborhoods, Free Blockbuster boxes have arrived in the Queen City thanks to toymaker Shadow V. Woolf of Valashard Toys N’ Tapes. He’s placed three boxes already in Northside, Clifton, and Covington to delight local movie lovers. Gone are the days of “be kind, rewind”—now, it’s “take a movie, leave a movie.” 3929 Spring Grove Ave., Northside; 320 Ludlow Ave., Clifton; 836 Main St., Covington; freeblockbuster. org

After outgrowing its Brewpub on Montgomery Road and after pandemic delays, Nine Giant opened its new Fermentorium last April just around the corner from its current space. The Fermentorium features 30 unique, small-batch, and experimental beers on tap, a private event space, a barrel room in the basement, and more space for patrons. Feeling the winter blues? Besides interesting brews, you can get a taste of summer year-round with the Fermentorium’s curated tropical cocktail menu.6111 Ridge Ave., Pleasant Ridge, info@ninegiant.com, ninegiant. com/ferm MASCOT

Anderson High School Raptors Loads of students competed on local fields and indoor courts this fall as the Anderson Raptors, and the world didn’t end. Count that as a win for community values, which finally convinced the Forest Hills School Board to retire the school’s Redskins brand. anderson raptors.org CYCLE STUDIO

Society Cycle House SoulCycle? Old news. Say hello to Society Cycle House, your new destination for all that sweaty spin class goodness. The Over-the-Rhine studio offers a variety of membership tiers and classes—known at the studio as “Jam Sessions”—for cyclists of every level. Sign up for an early “Morning Heat” ride to get the blood flowing first thing in the a.m. or put your fate into the hands of the studio with the house ride, an instructor’s choice workout. The classes are high-energy and powered by music carefully curated by the instructor or a local DJ. The best part? Your first ride is free. 15 W. 14th St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 394-6578, thesocietycycle.com


WEST SIDE PLAY PLACE

Happy Hangout Tricia Malobicky thought west side families deserved a play place on their own side of town, so she created Happy Hangout. With its kid-scale Main Street of shops, party rooms, and 600-square-foot jungle gym, the littles will certainly enjoy themselves. Grownups can find plenty to love, too, with free adult admission, fast WiFi, outlets for charging, and the ability to bring your own food. Schedule your playdates now. 2041 Anderson Ferry Rd., Covedale, (513) 4581470, happyhangoutws.com

ROCK STORE

Dimitridon Studios

Lots of kids collect rocks, but only a few of them turn it into a business. Teenage brothers Dimitri and Jonas Agdanowski started Dimitridon Studios in 2016 when their collections began to take over the house. A location in South Haven, Michigan, followed, and last year, the brothers expanded to a shop in Alexandria, where their mom is from. Gemstones, fossils, jewelry, and artwork from local artists are all on offer, and this is the perfect spot to find a special and unexpected gift. 8321 E. Main St., Alexandria, (859) 635-7625, dimitridonstudios.net

KITCHEN RENOVATION

Baker Hunt Art and Cultural Center

GRAPE AGATE

Two summers ago, the Baker Hunt Art and Cultural Center launched a $1.8 million construction project, renovating classrooms and adding a state-of-the-art teaching kitchen. While the pandemic didn’t derail the project, it did delay it, forcing the organization to wait until this year to begin its new series of cooking classes. The extremely popular kids’ cooking classes are a highlight, where young chefs can learn to make everything from mini pumpkin pies to three-course meals. There are cooking classes for grownups, too, as well as instruction in drawing, painting, yoga, and more. 620 Greenup St., Covington, (859) 431-0020, bakerhunt.org CAMPING EXPERIENCE

Camp Cedar at Kings Island Jumping on the pandemic era popularity of RV sales and rentals, Camp Cedar opened this summer to provide RV parking spots and glamping cottages a mile north of Kings Island. More than 160 RV spaces feature electricity/water/sewer hookups, firepits, grills, tables, and WiFi, while the cottages include a kitchen and shower. The 52-acre property has two pools and several restaurants and food trucks, as well as a coffee shop, fitness center, dog park, camp store, and free shuttles to Kings Island. Camp Cedar also offers discounted KI tickets with site reservations. visitcampcedar.com

ORTHOCERAS TOWER

PYRITE SKULL

BAR

Bar Saeso Tucked away in Pendleton, this new addition to the local bar scene feels like an Italian getaway right here in Cincinnati. Guilfoil & Wilson, the team behind The Carriage House, opened the bar this year in an intimate Sycamore Street space “designed to deliver a high-end experience in a casual setting.” Pick your poison from Saeso’s ever-changing wine, bourbon, and cocktail menu while kicking back to relaxing tunes inside this perfect urban getaway. 1208 Sycamore St., Pendleton, info@barsaeso. com, barsaeso.com

FLUORITE FREEFORM


45 COMMUNITY GARDEN

Jackson Street Produce Market What do you do when your neighborhood doesn’t have access to fresh produce? For Lincoln Heights residents, the answer became clear earlier this year: You grow it yourself. The neighborhood banded together to turn a vacant lot into the Jackson Street Produce Market, an urban farm growing everything from lush collard greens to juicy peaches. Their goal is two-fold—to combat food insecurity while teaching valuable gardening and life skills to residents of all ages. You’ll find the fruits of their labor at their stand on Saturdays and at local stores like Fanci’s corner market, just a block away from the garden, throughout the week. 1120 Jackson St., Lincoln Heights KAYAK LAUNCH

Voice of America MetroPark

KENTUCKY AGATE LABRADORITE FORM

The bustling West Chester park opened an ADA-compliant kayak launch this fall to help those with mobility issues put canoes and kayaks into VOA Lake. The facility has a series of ramps, handrails, and platforms to help launch hand-powered watercraft, which is all that’s allowed on the 35-acre stocked lake. MetroParks of Butler County paid for the new facility with a $75,000 grant from the Ohio Department of Natural Resources. During outdoors seasons, the adjacent Wheelhouse Rental Area offers watercraft, bicycle, and fishing equipment rentals for use on and around the lake. yourmetroparks.net/parks/voice-of-america-metropark ANNOUNCER

Barry Larkin, Reds broadcaster, Bally Sports The Reds legend and Baseball Hall of Famer made his Bally Sports debut as the Reds’ color analyst last spring. Larkin, a Reds shortstop from 1986 to 2004, is a three-time Gold Glove winner, nine-time Silver Slugger, the 1995 National League MVP, and a 12-time All-Star. Now in the broadcast booth, his knowledge of the game is on full display, which has made for some entertaining back-and-forth with Reds play-by-play announcer John Sadak, another welcome new voice for the Reds.

THE NEXT NEW

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AMMONITE

BLINK RETURNS Cincinnati’s amazing art and light phenomenon will take over the downtown area again in October 2022, thanks in part to city government allocating $1 million in federal stimulus funds to the production. The 2019 event attracted 1.2 million visitors to see outdoor projection mappings, light installations, and murals from Findlay Market to Covington. blinkcincinnati. com

P H OTO G R A P H S BY ( D I M I T R I D O N ) D E V Y N G L I STA / ( B L I N K ) Z AC H A RY G H A D E R I

MADTREE IN OVER-THERHINE

JEFF RUBY’S AT FOUNTAIN SQUARE

TAFT MUSEUM OF ART UPGRADES

A NEW TURFWAY PARK

The adventurous brewery is partnering with one of the area’s best chefs to bring life back to a long-empty OTR building that supposedly was home base for political fixer Boss Cox in the late 19th century. The Alcove, opening in the first quarter of 2022, will pair MadTree’s beer hall vibe with a farmto-table menu from Stephen Williams (Bouquet in Covington). madtreebrew ing.com/alcove

One local icon will cozy up to another when Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse relocates to The Foundry at Fountain Square in fall 2022. The old Macy’s store is being redeveloped into office space and restaurant and retail spots. The Ruby family, which celebrated the 40th anniversary of its first restaurant this year, opened the downtown Steakhouse in 1999. jeffruby.com, 3cdc.org

The downtown home was built 200 years ago to house famous families (Longworth, Taft) and has stoutly served as the Taft Museum of Art since 1932. But time and the demands of modern museum science caught up to the old place, which is undergoing a year of rehab to improve ventilation and temperature/humidity control and will reopen in spring 2022. taftmuseum. org/bicentennial

Northern Kentucky, like the rest of the Bluegrass state, is ga-ga over horses, and Florence has been racing’s home base since Latonia Race Course moved there in 1959. Called Turfway Park since 1986, the track is getting a makeover from new owner Churchill Downs. More than 1,500 casino-like game machines and a new clubhouse are scheduled to open in summer 2022. turfway.com


WING JOINT

Pendalo Wingery Located inside Braxton’s Cincinnati taproom (because what pairs better with a frosty brew than chicken wings?), Pendalo serves up traditional, boneless, or cauliflower wings in your choice of 14 glazes and rubs, from the sweet and tame Pineapple BBQ to the fiery Nah Bruh XXX (which we weren’t brave enough to taste). 1211 Broadway St., Pendleton, (513) 918-4804, pendalo wingery.com MONTESSORI SCHOOL KARAOKE

Disney Karaoke at Tiki Tiki Bang Bang Embrace your inner Elsa. Or Ariel. Or any other beloved Disney princess/hero/villain your heart desires. Tiki Tiki Bang Bang (formerly known as Video Archive), one of the latest projects from Gorilla Cinema, offers monthly Disney-themed karaoke sessions. Look out for drink specials like the Heffalump shot or the Little Mermaid–themed “Look at This Stuff.” Dinglehopper included. 965 E. McMillan St., Walnut Hills, (513) 559-9500, gorillacin emapresents.com/tiki

FOOD TRUCK PARK

Clear Mountain Food Park Ken David’s family owned and operated the Gold Star Chili at the corner of Old State Route 32 and Half- Acre Road for four decades. Once the franchise agreement with the chili chain expired, David, inspired by a park in Dubai, reached out to Queen City Mobile Food Truck Association founder Anthony Lange. Now a rotating slate of trucks serves lunch and dinner Wednesdays through Sundays in the lot next to the former chili parlor, which now houses indoor seating and a bar. With a full calendar of events, live music, a firepit, and lawn games, there’s something here for everyone. 2792 Old State Route 32, Batavia, clearmountainfoodpark.com POP-UP MARKET

Pike Street Pop-Up To help local businesses struggling through the pandemic, Renaissance Covington transformed its former office space into a permanent, rotating retail space hosting one or two small businesses quarterly. The space comes equipped with furniture, WiFi, a POS system, and other amenities that help these businesses avoid expensive startup costs. Since July, the Pike Street Pop-Up has hosted RepeatStyles, a lifestyle brand offering vintage finds, and Mud Lane Blooms, a full-service florist and flower farm. 2 W. Pike St., Covington, rcov.org/pike-st-popup-shop NEW OWNERS

Sweet Tooth When the owners of Sweet Tooth, the Newport candy shop of legend, announced their retirement in late 2020, the community held its breath. What would become of the beloved sweet spot? Ice balls in the summer. Caramel apples when the weather turns cold. Valentine’s Day chocolates in heart-shaped boxes. Opera creams? Those are year-round. When the new owners were announced, there was an audible exhale from Sweet Tooth die-hards. Pompilio’s operators Joe Bristow and Larry Geiger stepped in to save the day, pledging to stay true to the recipes that have had customers coming back since the ’70s. 125 W. 11th St., Newport, (859) 581-6763, sweettoothchocolates.com BOOKSTORE

Joy and Matt’s Bookshop Lamenting the demise of The Booksellers on Fountain Square, Mt. Auburn resident Matt Stonecash wanted to create a new spot for readers to browse and discover new titles. Enter Joy and Matt’s Bookshop. Stonecash, along with partner Haixia “Joy” Niu, opened the Over-the-Rhine bookstore on Vine Street this summer, providing a curated selection of old and new books of all genres that pique the interests of a diverse reading population. 1515 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 427-3413, joyandmatts.com

N1FAN

ALUM3 SCHOOL SPIRIT

High School Vanity Plates Elder and La Salle high schools joined St. Xavier in offering personalized car license plates through the Ohio BMV this year. Each school gets $30 of the $40 annual fee. Elder launched its plates in the spring and has sold 141 sets so far, while LaSalle just started in September. “We’re grateful to those grads and friends who choose to support our students and show their school pride,” says Elder Alumni Relations Director Brian Bill. bmv.ohio. gov/vr-sp-geninfo. aspx

Community Montessori Community Montessori Head of School Terri Rentrop and her team of founders knew for several years they wanted to create a place that would serve families while connecting them to the Covington community. The student body is diverse by design, and the affordable tuition, plus a scholarship fund, offers access to those who might not otherwise be able to consider private education. 131 E. Fifth St., Covington, (859) 261-1374, mycommunitymont essori.com ESPORTS VENUE

The Sandbox at Northern Kentucky University In spring 2020, NKU Esports was awarded $75,000 by the Success by Design Innovation Challenge to construct this new gaming arena. After pandemic delays, the arena opened in fall 2021 as the home of the NKU Esports Club, which welcomes gamers of all experience levels and consoles, and its varsity team, which faces some of the best competitive players in the country. Second floor of Founders Hall, 1 Louie B. Nunn Dr., Highland Heights, nku.edu/esports/ about/sandbox ART GALLERY

V2 Gallery at ArtWorks When ArtWorks moved its offices to Walnut Hills in the spring, the 25-yearold nonprofit took the opportunity to expand its summer mural-painting apprentice program into year-round youth training. The V2 Gallery, visible in the ground floor windows at Gilbert Avenue and McMillan Street in the Peebles’ Corner redevelopment, allows emerging artists to participate in a residency program that culminates in gallery shows of their work. V2 is currently displaying Cut the Bias through December 18, a collection of Mexican folk art inspired wall hangings. 901 E. McMillan St., Walnut Hills, (513) 333-3618, artworkscincin nati.org

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47 SPORTS HOME

TQL Stadium IN HINDSIGHT, IT’S POSSIBL E that FC Cincinnati didn’t need to rush to join Major League Soccer so quickly or to build a new soccer-only stadium downtown. A few corners might have been cut as a result, since the team just finished dead last in MLS for the third year in a row and TQL Stadium was shoehorned into a neighborhood straddling Over-the-Rhine and the West End. Still, when MLS came calling in 2016, Cincinnati had one shot with the country’s top soccer league or it would have gotten jumped over by Nashville, Miami, Austin, and other “hot” cities waiting in line— so FCC said yes and took the leap. There’s no arguing that TQL Stadium, which opened in May, is a fun place to watch a match. The grass field, enclosed roof, and well-designed seating bowl (including the steep standing section for the drum-beating, flag-waving, singing superfans behind one goal) make for a wonderful in-person experience, as do the various suites and club sections if you possess the right tickets. No other sporting scene in Cin-

P H OTO G R A P H C O U R T E SY F C C I N C I N N AT I

cinnati can touch the fan march down Central Parkway and up the main staircase before each home match. It’s also possible that, five years from now, everyone will be singing “Kumbaya” in the stands after FCC starts winning consistently, a live/work/play village grows around the stadium, Hamilton County’s new parking garage opens, and West End residents are lifted by the development’s rising tide. The predominantly African American neighborhood has been abused before, most infamously by I-75 construction, and FCC ownership has offered olive branches in a variety of ways: building a new football field for Taft High School, sponsoring youth soccer teams, and paying to relocate impacted residents. FC Cincinnati, TQL Stadium, and the West End were all works in progress in 2021. FCC will have a new general manager and head coach running the team next season, so things are looking up on the pitch; how the stadium and its neighbors get along remains to play out. fccincinnati.com

WINE SHOP

The Bottle Shop from Ripple When COVID sidelined the inperson experience at Ripple Wine Bar, owners Kathleen and Matt Haws took a calculated risk, opening a retail extension just two doors down from their popular Covington spot. And it paid off. The small but mighty space is stocked floor-to-ceiling with bottles and the Hawses’ encyclopedic knowledge helps customers find their perfect vintage. You’ll likely find some familiar names among the shelves, but the real draws are small vineyards and boutique winemakers. 8 W. Pike St., Covington, (859) 261-0004


PL ANT SHOP

Forage Plant moms, dads, and non-binary folks, rejoice. There’s yet another(!) new urban jungle for you to call home. Forage—which arrived in town with its sister store, sustainable goods shop Koko, in February—is a full-service plant store in the re-emerging West Fourth Street District. And its offerings go far beyond the usual greenhouse-variety services. Between vines of creeping pothos and vibrant monstera, you’ll find an in-store plant doctor, specializing in repairing and repotting greenery that’s seen better days. Bring them your tired, your yellowing, your wilting masses. Your plants will thank you. 320 W. Fourth St., downtown, (513) 287-7867, forageplants.com

NATIONAL PARK

New River Gorge The country’s newest national park officially debuted in January in West Virginia, although the area was already well-known in these parts. The New River Gorge National Park and Preserve is home to more than 70,000 acres of rugged canyons, lush forests, hiking trails, and whitewater rafting along the river, plus the impressive New River Gorge Bridge, the longest steel span in the Western Hemisphere. nps.gov/neri

DRINKS TO GO

The Designated Outdoor Refreshment Area (DORA) has become a big hit. Here are a few of our favorites.

FREE HIKING PROGRAM

Everybody in Mt. Airy A partnership between the Cincinnati Parks Foundation and Mason ministry Luke5Adventures, Everybody in Mt. Airy takes individuals with disabilities on hour-long hikes in the nearly 1,500acre city park with custom all-terrain one-wheeled chairs (a.k.a. “Rosies”). Accessibility advocate Kevin Flynn runs the seasonal program, which relies on the help of trained volunteers who use the Rosies to move participants around the forest for an immersive nature experience. cincinnatiparksfoundation.org/ programs/everybody-in-mt-airy

THE BANKS

BELLEVUE

HAMILTON

LOVELAND

CHEVIOT

When it’s gameday (or just a regular Saturday), indulge in a walk between Heritage Bank Arena and Paul Brown Stadium and from Mehring Way to Second Street.

In Northern Kentucky, they’re called Entertainment Districts, and the one in Bellevue includes Fairfield Avenue between O’Fallon and Riviera. Visit during the First Friday shopping event each month.

All of the central business district, German Village Historic District, and the Main Street business district are included here, so stroll along the Great Miami with a beer from Municipal Brew Works.

Here, you’ll have access to the Little Miami Scenic Trail and Nisbet Park, as well as Narrow Path Brewing and other restaurants and bars along West Loveland Avenue and Karl Brown Way.

Along Harrison Avenue, from Dean’s Hops & Vines to the Public House on North Bend, a dozen establishments are participating, in hopes of encouraging more foot traffic in the area.

P H OTO G R A P H S BY ( TO P ) C AT I E V I OX / ( B OT TO M ) D E AG R E E Z /STO C K . A D O B E .CO M


49 FOOD TRUCK

RUNNING STORE

Cackleberry

Fleet Feet at Fifty West

When it comes to catching Cackleberry’s Filipino-fusion breakfast sandwiches, you have to be fast. They sell out within a couple of hours wherever the vintage trailer sets up shop. Most Sundays, you can catch China Kautz and her husband, Nate, slinging sammies like the “Benny” (bacon sandwich with egg, cheese, chipotle ketchup, and caramelized onions) or the “Lolo” (Filipino sweet sausage with atchara, egg, and garlic aioli) in and around Walnut Hills. Watch the food truck’s Instagram account to find out exactly where they’re going to be and be prepared to give chase. It’s worth it. eatcackleberry.com

Fifty West has built quite an outdoor activity complex near Mariemont, offering access to the Little Miami Scenic Trail and river and supplying everything bikers, walkers, runners, and paddlers need to get going. The latest addition is the area’s fourth Fleet Feet store, which opened this summer in a building shared with Fifty West Cyclery. 7667 Wooster Pke., Mariemont, (513) 272-0555, fleet feet.com/s/cincy

WAY TO FLY

Cincinnati State/Kenton County Schools Aviation Program A partnership between Northern Kentucky’s second-largest school district and Cincinnati State helps local high school students soar—and prepares them for careers in aviation maintenance technology. Over two years, the 15 juniors in the program will spend half their days at Cincinnati State’s Harrison campus, where they’ll take classes, with the goal of completing an associate’s degree and becoming certified drone pilots to boot. The hope is the program will create a local pool of highly-skilled workers who can fill a need as CVG expands and the new Amazon hub gets off the ground. cincinnatistate.edu DISTILLERY

Pensive Distilling Co. California transplants Scott Quigley and Jose Escamilla used to distill spirits in a mutual friend’s garage. Now they’re working on a slightly larger scale at Pensive, a Kentucky Derby–themed distillery, bar, and restaurant in Newport. (Pensive won the Derby back in 1944.) They’re distilling their own vodka using a still named America’s Playground; they’ve contracted out the bourbon they’re pouring now to another Kentucky distiller while their first barrels age. We’ll check back in four years to see how they’re doing. 720 Monmouth St., Newport, (859) 360-5579, pensivedistilling.com PRESIDENT

Colleen Hanycz, Xavier University For the first time in Xavier University’s 190-year history, its president is neither Jesuit nor male. Toronto native Colleen Hanycz joined the school after six years at La Salle, where she was also the first layperson and first female to be president. In her past roles there and at Brescia University College in London, Ontario, Canada, she increased enrollment and positioned those institutions for future growth. As she looks to lead Xavier into the future, she’s getting familiar with Xavier basketball traditions with some help from her predecessor, Xavier super-fan Father Michael Graham. xavier.edu

COOKING SHOW

Chow and Tell In an effort to connect with her remote-learning students, Norwood Middle and High School teacher Leila Kubesch leaned on her creative problem-solving skills to come up with Chow and Tell, a cooking show for the Norwood City School District. This year, Kubesch and select students filmed more than 30 episodes—featuring guest chefs like former Ohio Superintendent of Public Instruction Paolo DeMaria and Ohio State Board of Education Vice President Charlotte McGuire— all of which aired on the public access station Norwood Community Television.

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PIZZA

LaRosa’s Vegan Pizza

OYSTER BAR

Pearlstar Oyster Bar Pearlstar Oyster Bar won’t let a little thing like no bodies of saltwater nearby stop them from providing a memorable seafood-filled experience. Located in the old A Tavola space in Over-theRhine, the restaurant serves up oysters from both coasts—shipped in fresh daily, depending on availability. If oysters aren’t your thing, the other seafood dishes on the menu (like the golden corvina ceviche or the yellowfin carpaccio) will keep you busy while your friends scarf down their dressed or raw oysters. Just don’t get jealous. 1220 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 381-0427, pearl-star.com

Before you ask—no, it’s not an oxymoron. It’s not really cheese, either. It’s actually a clever combination of potato starch and coconut oil, but when you bake it onto a round of pizza dough, it’s stretchable and melty enough to feel, and even taste, like cheese. After a decade of requests for vegan options, LaRosa’s unveiled a lineup of dairy-free cheeses and meat-free proteins, including “chicken,” “pepperoni,” and “sausage,” to complement its sauces and dough, which are already plant-based. (513) 347-1111, larosas.com BOUTIQUE

Boutique Bellini How does a clothing store born in the back of a converted Little Debbie truck manage to land a storefront in OTR? Just ask Aleasha Smith, the owner and creative force behind Boutique Bellini, the women’s apparel store that opened its permanent Vine Street location this fall. A fashion industry veteran and working mom, Smith introduced her brand to the city first as a pop-up before joining 3CDC’s Perseverance Project. You’ll find everything from high-end denim and silky blouses to lounge pants and sun hats at this carefully curated storefront. 1513 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 4046872, boutiquebellini.com FACADE

Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption For 111 years, Covington’s Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption was missing something. In 2019, Bishop Roger J. Foys launched a campaign to fill in the blanks. Sculptor Neilson Carlin designed two tympana reliefs and 24 statues, carved from the same Indiana limestone used in the building’s original construction. Last June, Foys dedicated the project, bringing the past into the present. 1140 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 4312060, covcathedral.com


ARTS FACILITY

Cincinnati Ballet’s Margaret and Michael Valentine

Center for Dance

HOME FOR THE SHOWBOAT MAJESTIC

New Richmond The historic Showboat Majestic is now docked at New Richmond with hopes of serving as an entertainment destination there for at least the next 10 years. The riverboat was built in 1923 and bought by the city of Cincinnati in 1967, offering floating theater and concerts for decades on downtown’s riverfront. Joe and Cortnee Brumley bought the boat in 2019 and moved it briefly to Adams County, but now have a 10-year agreement to moor it at New Richmond, Joe’s childhood home. showboat majestic.com

T HOUSANDS OF LITTL E FEET in toe shoes and ballet slippers carried the Cincinnati Ballet to new heights, says President and CEO Scott Altman when contemplating the company’s journey to its new headquarters in Walnut Hills. If not for the success of its Otto M. Budig Academy, which for almost 25 years has trained dancers of all experience levels from age 2 through 18, the Ballet might not have needed—or been able to afford—its new Margaret and Michael Valentine Center for Dance on Gilbert Avenue. “We were maybe 600 families strong in Over-the-Rhine,” says Altman. “This building gives us the capacity to triple in size who we serve, just in our dance training. We’ll be able to expand adult programs, children’s programs, and community interactive programs.” To many local arts fans, Cincinnati Ballet is the troupe of professional dancers bringing Artistic Director Victoria Morgan’s vision to life at Music Hall, the Aronoff Center, and on other area stages. They present The Nutcracker each holiday season and rep the city on tours to New York City and Washington, D.C. To lots of Cincinnati families, though, the company is where the kids take dance lessons and the adults do Pilates. The community connection has been building since 1994, when Cincinnati Ballet opened a new facility at Central Parkway and Liberty Street; it was eventually expanded to four studios in a 36,000-square-foot space. Nudged along by the emergence of FC Cincinnati’s new stadium next door (see more on page 47), Ballet leaders found open land at the foot of

Gilbert Avenue below The Baldwin apartments for a 57,000-square-foot building with nine studios. Designed by Cincinnati-based GBBN, the Valentine Center for Dance officially opened in September. Morgan, who will retire from Cincinnati Ballet next summer, describes a message she wrote on the new building’s subflooring during construction: The dream came true. “People found a way to make this building possible for us through their generosity and their belief in what this art form can offer and what we can become,” she told us in September, just before its grand opening. cballet.org

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51 ANTIQUE STORE

GELATO SHOP

Mazzocca Brothers Furniture and Antiques Louis and Tom Mazzocca are the brothers behind this new shop on Newport’s Saratoga Street, but the journey really began when Louis and his wife Holly moved into a 1904 home in Ft. Thomas. The couple wanted to furnish their home with period pieces, and once that job was done, Louis couldn’t quite stop looking for the next great find. If you’re in the market for barrister bookcases, bird’s eye maple buffets, or antique clocks and lamps—or you’re looking to sell yours—this is the place for you. 1021 Saratoga St., Newport, (859) 444-8274, mazzoccabros.com HIGH SCHOOL SPORTS TEAM

Mountain Biking Club Competitive mountain biking is now a nationally sanctioned school sport, and 2021 was the first year for the sport in Ohio and Kentucky. Locally, the White Squirrels team, comprised of high schoolers from all over Northern Kentucky and all skill levels, is bringing the sport to the tri-state mainstream, practicing on trails in the hilly woods behind Ft. Thomas’s Tower Park. So far, their competitions have taken them as far as Athens and Toledo. And with skilled coaches to guide these young riders, who knows where they might compete next? White Squirrels, contact coach Brian Bozeman, bozemanb@gmail.com BREWERY

Third Eye Brewing Company The group of homebrewing friends behind Third Eye truly hit the ground running, nabbing awards for their brews within six months of opening. The Sharonville taproom hosts trivia nights, live music, and Bloody Mary Sundays, and of course there’s beer. The award-winning Higher Purpose Milk Stout directs 10 percent of each purchase to the Live Like Maya Foundation, in honor of Maya Collins, daughter of cofounders Tom and Bonnie Collins, who lost her battle with leukemia in 2017. 11276 Chester Rd., Sharonville, (513) 771-2739, thirdeyebrewingco.com

TRIED AND TRUE

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Golden Gelato During a hiking trip to Italy, Joe Jones fell in love with gelato and returned home to Covington convinced he could make the creamy treat himself. He got so good at it (under the tutelage of some of the best gelato chefs in the country), he decided to open Golden Gelato. Jones and his wife, Vanessa, offer authentic, small-batch Italian gelato and sorbetto— in flavors like toasted coconut, lemon cookie, and dark chocolate—churned daily on the premises. You’ll feel like you’re on your own trek through Italy’s gelaterias at this place. 130 W. Pike St., Covington, (859) 360-3709, goldengela tocov.com COFFEE SHOP

Proud Hound The rainbow-hued bags of beans dotting storefronts from Findlay Market to Oakley were just the beginning. Proud Hound Coffee opened the doors of its colorful, Wes Anderson-inspired café in Silverton this summer, quickly rallying a following around its locally roasted beans and “dignity for all” ethos. A stellar brunch menu, anchored by comfort food classics like biscuits and grits, shines without overshadowing the true reason for coming here—the curated coffee selection, roasted right there in the shop. 6717 Montgomery Rd., Silverton, (513) 987-1233, proudhound coffee.com VINTAGE SHOP

The Daily Vintage OLDEST RESTAURANT:

MECKLENBURG GARDENS Throughout its vibrant, sometimes turbulent history—it was, after all, a Prohibition-era speakeasy—this landmark of Cincinnati’s German heritage features some of the city’s best Bavarian fare and one of the finest biergartens in the country. Little has changed since the Mecklenburg opened in 1865. And that’s a good thing. 302 E. University Ave., Corryville, (513) 221-5353, mecklenburgs.com

OLDEST STORE:

OLDEST BAR:

OLDEST LIBRARY:

OLDEST HOUSE:

BROMWELL’S

ARNOLD’S Speakeasy. Brothel. Cincinnati staple. Arnold’s reputation precedes it. And the legends of bathtub gin, paranormal activity, and mob connections are just a small part of why the city’s oldest—and perhaps most beloved—bar still draws a mighty crowd. 210 E. Eighth St., downtown, (513) 421-6234, arnolds barandgrill.com

THE MERCANTILE LIBRARY

BETTS HOUSE

Back in the era of chimney sweeps and horse-drawn carriages, fireplace retailer Bromwell’s planted its flag in a downtown Italianate. More than 200 years later, Cincinnati’s oldest store still occupies that 10,000-squarefoot showroom, and its bespoke fireplaces still adorn some of the city’s finest homes. 117 W. Fourth St., downtown, (513) 621-0620, bromwells.com

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Sacred ground for Cincinnati’s bibliophiles, writers, and thinkers, The Mercantile Library is one of the last remaining of its kind—a membersonly literary institution. For nearly 200 years, the downtown library has been building and curating its collection, which today contains more than 80,000 tomes. 414 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 621 0717, mercantilelibrary. com

It’s been ages since anyone’s lived in the Betts House. But Ohio’s oldest brick home, built in 1804, is lively as ever in its afterlife as a museum. Visit to learn more about the architecture and peek into the lives of the earliest residents, or tag along for a tour of the Betts-Longworth Historic District. 416 Clark St., West End, (513) 651-0734

The Daily Vintage does the heavy thrifting lifting for you, selecting only the cream of the vintage crop to display at their Findlay Market–adjacent storefront. Xavier sweatshirts from the ’70s? Check. Old-school Bengals gear? Check. Stone Cold Steve Austin tees? Interesting choice, but they’ve got ’em. It’s a Cincinnati sports fan’s dream—and a sustainable way to shop for your next obsession. 1810 Elm St., Over-the-Rhine STREETSCAPE

Court Street Plaza This $5.5 million project reimagined East Court Street as a plaza for all. The crumbling brick sidewalk has been replaced and widened, a design that had pedestrians and outdoor dining opportunities in mind. Reconfigured “festival style” pavement (where the street is at the same level as the sidewalk) allows Court Street to close for events, and sculptures and murals by local artists now adorn this upgraded downtown space. E. Court St. between Vine and Walnut streets, downtown


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The BRENT SPENCE BRIDGE’s traffic chokehold has taken a back seat to political cowardice and misplaced priorities for decades. Will the federal infrastructure bill finally bail out regional leaders who fiddled while the bridge burned?

By

Jim

DeBr

osse ◊ I l l u s t r at i o n B y Mi

Hirs l e a h c

hon


R E V O S E I G K N I H S A THE S E L N RE U E W Y K C U T N E NORTHERN K UR O P N W O D Y A CHILL on November 11, 2020, as Mansour Thiam drove his International semi north on Interstate 71/75 toward downtown Cincinnati and the Brent Spence Bridge. Traffic was mercifully light at 2:30 in the morning, though it backed up short of the Radisson Hotel in Covington. Another semi had jackknifed on the slippery road and was disabled in the breakdown lane. Diesel fuel from the truck had sloshed across the highway. Thiam was careful crossing the oily slick, then joined the renewed flow of traffic as he continued north in the middle lane. As he entered the lower deck of the bridge and its notoriously dark and narrow lanes, Thiam could feel his trailer begin to fishtail behind him into the far left lane. That’s where truck driver Raul Herrera happened to be rolling by in his Freightliner with a load of potassium hydroxide, a highly corrosive chemical. Even if Herrera had seen Thiam coming, he couldn’t have avoided the swerving trailer. A foot to his rig’s left was a concrete barrier and then an 80-foot plunge into the Ohio River below. The first of Herrera’s double trailers collided with the back of Thiam’s load, and the two semis careened into a massive, tangled heap that ignited one or both of their fuel tanks and blocked all four lanes of the northbound deck. Miraculously, both truck drivers exited their cabs without serious injuries, but Herrera was in such shock he didn’t see that his rig was on fire. Thiam had to tell him to get clear as the blaze worked its way back toward his load of potassium hydroxide. Other drivers entering the bridge, including a truck hauling a load of fuel, came to a stop as Herrera’s load caught fire and fed the blaze into a brilliant inferno. The flames spread out over the roofline of the bridge’s southbound upper deck, 15 feet above, burning at temperatures as high as 1,500 degrees Fahrenheit—hot enough to compromise the strength of steel beams. Covington police arrived five minutes later but couldn’t get close enough to see if anyone was trapped or injured. The heat was so intense it set their uniforms ablaze, says Covington Police Specialist Joseph Gier, who reviewed the accident report. Covington fire crews arrived soon after but held off taking any action after spotting the HAZMAT label on Herrera’s trailer. Speeding over the Clay Wade Bailey Bridge, Cincinnati firefighters joined the Covington crews already stationed on the Kentucky shore. When the chemical in Herrera’s load was identified, water boats were called to the scene with fire-suppressing foam. But their hoses weren’t powerful enough to reach the fire. While the blaze continued unabated, motorists stuck on the lower deck of the bridge were directed to back up and turn around

to the Fourth Street exit in Covington. Truck drivers were told to abandon their rigs so police could drive them to the nearest exits. Eventually, firefighters were able to reach the blaze by lugging hundreds of feet of hosing up an aerial ladder from the shore. The fire took almost two hours to extinguish. The early morning nightmare could have been far worse. What if the accident had occurred at 2:45 p.m. rather than 2:45 a.m.? What if the truck drivers hadn’t been able to exit their cabs? What if the fire had reached the trapped semi with its load of fuel? And what if the earlier truck accident hadn’t slowed traffic as it entered the bridge? The lesson from that near-tragedy a year ago is this: The Brent Spence Bridge is unsafe at any speed and has been for decades while local, state, and national leaders have done little to remedy the problem. From the moment the bridge opened a few days after the assassination of John F. Kennedy in November 1963, the three-lane, double-decker design was already on its way to being “structurally obsolete”—engineer-speak for inadequate to handle the flow of traffic, then 80,000 vehicles per day. Traffic from Interstate 71 was added to the bridge in both directions in 1970 with no additional lanes to handle the flow. By 1985, congestion on what area residents were now calling the “Car-Strangled Spanner” had become such a bottleneck that traffic

54


STEEL BAND-AIDS A TRUCK ACCIDENT AND MASSIVE FIRE IN NOVEMBER 2020 (LEFT) LED TO SIX WEEKS OF REPAIRS (FAR LEFT) THAT LEFT THE BRENT SPENCE BRIDGE AS OVERBURDENED AND UNLOVED AS EVER.

engineers were forced to eliminate its breakdown lanes and squeeze out a foot of width from each lane in order to create a fourth in both directions. With an average of 172,000 vehicles per day now crossing the bridge, more than twice what it was designed for, the results have been calamitous. The bridge corridor has an accident rate three to five times higher than the rest of the Ohio and Kentucky interstate systems. Each year, 650 calls for help are made by motorists stranded there, according to the Ohio Department of Transportation and the Kentucky Transportation Cabinet. Motorists unlucky enough to break down or run out of gas on the Brent Spence Bridge “have nowhere to go,” says Specialist Gier. In 2011, that was the fatal trap for Abdoulaye Yattara of Westwood. Yattara was headed south on his way to work in Florence when he ran out of gas. He got out of his car and was on the bridge when an oncoming minivan rear-ended the car that stopped to help him, knocking him over the side. He plummeted to his death in the Ohio River. Of the 142 accidents on the bridge from August 2008 to August 2011, just over half, or 72, were rear-end collisions, according to a 2011 study by traffic engineers. Three presidents, including Joe Biden, promised to fix the bridge. And while Barack Obama and Donald Trump failed, Biden’s chances look good for delivering on his promise—and without charging the tolls so reviled by some Northern Kentucky residents—since Congress was poised to pass his $1.2 trillion infrastructure bill. Federal funding under the bill would pay up to 80 percent of the nearly $2.8 billion needed to build a massive new bridge beside the Brent Spence and reconfigure the existing one. Ohio and Kentucky would have to kick in the remaining 20 percent over a 10-year period (dividing a total of about $560 million) instead of the 80 percent in local and state funds usually required for highway projects. At the local level, the city of Covington, where current plans for the new six-lane bridge would P H OTO G R A P H S C O U R T E SY K E N T U C K Y T R A N S P O R TAT I O N C A B I N E T

carve another huge swath from its neighborhoods, seems destined to take the hit for the rest of the region. “The key part of this is how Kentucky and Ohio are going to make this work,” says Mark Policinski, executive director of the Ohio-Kentucky-Indiana Regional Council of Governments (OKI), the tri-state’s transportation planning agency. “Kentucky hasn’t been in favor of tolls. Now the idea is if we can build this bridge without tolls, then these two states have to come up with their own contributions. It’s more doable, certainly, but they’ve got to get it right.”

A

SOLUTION CAN’T COME QUICKLY ENOUGH FOR CINCINNATI area motorists. For decades, they’ve cursed the bridge, named after Newport native and long-time Northern Kentucky congressman Brent Spence, who avowed he didn’t really deserve the honor. Each year, traffic backups in the corridor delay motorists by 3.6 million hours and waste 1.6 million gallons of fuel, according to Ohio and Kentucky transportation officials. A 2015 OKI study found the bottleneck added an average of 30 minutes and $9 in time and fuel costs for daily trips across the bridge, costing regular commuters more than $2,200 a year. For truckers, the average cost in extra time and fuel is more than $47 a day. And the complaints have only grown louder recently, first with the six-week closure last fall to fix the damage from the truck explosion and then, starting in March, lane reductions for repainting the bridge that lasted until early November. Finding a way to get across the river in either direction has become a frustrating exercise in logistics. Kevin Green, a data analyst who lives in Fairfield, changed jobs in January to escape the 50-minute trip to a client in Florence. It was either face the 7 a.m. logjam on the Brent Spence or take the long run around through Indiana on I-275, he says. “That got old doing it four or five times a week. It was just driving me nuts.” Green lasted a month before quitting. Other Cincinnati area residents make a point of avoiding the bridge for safety reasons. In a Facebook post, Cindy Schrader of Columbia-Tusculum says she uses either the Clay Wade Bailey or drives the extra miles on I-471 for trips to the airport. “Northbound is especially scary...terrible signage and through traffic has no idea where they are or which lane to be in.” Engineers and inspectors say the bridge is still structurally sound and will continue to be for years to come, thanks to the time-tested brawn of its cantilever C O N T I N U E D O N PA G E 9 8

55



LESS NS FROM THE PANDEMIC HOW LOCAL COLLEGE FACULTY TURNED THE PAST YEAR’S CRAZY SCHOOL SCHEDULES AND DISRUPTED ROUTINES INTO LIFE LESSONS FOR THEIR STUDENTS. BY MI CHEL E DAY | I L LUST RAT I O N BY M A RI N A M UUN

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A

S THE GLOBAL COVID-19

pandemic dawns in March 2020, Joan Ferrante awakes with a plan: She’ll write a book. She recruits colleagues at Northern Kentucky University, who are scrambling to reinvent their classes for remote teaching, to be her potential co-authors. The whole world has the feeling of unprecedented uncertainty and anxiety. But none of that seems to faze Ferrante, a 43year sociology professor. She has a crucial message to share. Her book will present the pandemic through the lenses of academic disciplines. Experts on topics from anthropology to world languages will share their ideas for responding to a crisis. The book, she thinks, could be popular. It’ll also help people understand what Ferrante believes in her very soul: Education matters. Today, Ferrante’s book, How to Respond in a Pandemic: 25 Ideas from 25 Disciplines of Study, has been in circulation for more than a year. The world is still waiting and hoping for the sun to set on the pandemic, though, and the value of higher education remains a topic of debate. Beyond the campus of NKU, where I also teach, I decide to use Ferrante’s techniques to explore how the area’s universities used the pandemic to provide students with life lessons. I interviewed more than 20 educators and students from 14 disciplines at the University of Cincinnati, Mount St. Joseph University, Xavier University, and NKU. A few were contributors to Ferrante’s book; most were not. I wanted to know how their expert ways of thinking influenced their personal experiences and how each lens on the crisis might be able to help solve larger problems

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confronting us all. These people who have committed their lives to studying and sharing highly specialized knowledge vary from a veteran philosophy professor pondering the ultimate questions of life to an 18-year-old performing artist dreaming of changing the world.

THINGS ARE NOT AS THEY SEEM. JOAN Ferrante labels this phrase the motto of sociology and makes it the theme of her own essay in How to Respond in a Pandemic. Sociologists, she says, know that people see reality as what they and their closest contacts personally experience. The delivery driver saw the pandemic as an avalanche of boxes, while the grocery store clerk perceived a rush of hoarders who stripped shelves of toilet paper and hand sanitizer. Sociologists demand a wider view. “The world is bigger than you are,” says Ferrante. “There’s always something deeper than what you know.” For her book project, Ferrante invited more than 75 NKU connections to contribute essays highlighting one idea their academic discipline brings to a

crisis. She gave them as little as 10 days to submit a first draft and describes an unconventional editing process that included reviews by students. “I wanted to put students on the same playing field as experts,” she says. To her surprise, 25 colleagues and her co-editor, sociologist Chris Caldeira, agreed to the terms. She assumes their motivations were similar to her own: It’s a moment of crisis. They need their disciplines to matter. Meanwhile, as March moved into April 2020, Ferrante searched for a publisher. Many expressed interest, but none would commit. “They told me, We like it, but we can’t get to it for a year,” she says, but recalls feeling anxious that the insights of literature, the problem-solving strategies of mathematics, and other academic lessons could make a difference in people’s lives. “We had to say something quickly.” SAGE Publishing, a global academic publisher, eventually agreed to release the book. They wanted to show education can move fast, too, Ferrante says. As authors submitted essays, Ferrante’s excitement grew. Anthropologist Sharyn Jones linked the importance of food to P H OTO G R A P H BY M AT T W I T H E R S P O O N /O M S P H OTO


TEACHING MOMENTS Northern Kentucky University sociology professor Joan Ferrante (left) says education matters, especially in a pandemic. A number of CCM musical theater students (below) agree.

establishing community. World languages professor Bo-Kyung Kim Kirby explored cultural assumptions in South Korea’s COVID response. This was blockbuster material, Ferrante thought, though sales have not materialized. “It’s like maybe hundreds of copies sold,” she says. “It has not paid for itself.” From a publisher’s perspective, this seems disappointing. But the sociologist knows that things are not what they seem. Through a grant, Ferrante purchased books for 130 students in six NKU courses last fall. Students wrote essays explaining their pandemic experiences and describing which of the essays, if any, provided useful advice. Students responded with powerful anecdotes about the stress of enforcing mask mandates at retail jobs and emotional descriptions of lost seasons of cherished sports. Their connections to the 25 educational ideas exceeded Ferrante’s expectations. Students embraced counseling techniques for building resilience, described the cathartic relief of putting their feelings into words, and expressed new clarity about the impact of media habits.

Ferrante grins with delight. “Every ist at UC’s College of Medicine. “No, I’m going to be really busy,” he told her. essay was great,” she says. “I’m not Fichtenbaum expected he’d be called exaggerating. You can tell when they upon to communicate and to educate, and believe what they’re writing versus he knew he’d need a lot of help. He hoped throwing crap at you so they can get the grade. I believed them.” volunteers would emerge, but he was unFerrante ponders the project’s impact. prepared for the level of response. People “It’s a record of history in a sense,” she from every part of healthcare stepped up. “Honestly, I’ve never seen anything like says. “It might come back in other pandemics.” But her message has empowered that in 22 years at this institution,” he says, students. “I wanted them to know that we talking about UC nurses, researchers, peoin education have some ple who cleaned hospital answers in a crisis,” she rooms, and those who ALL HANDS ON DECK says. “We’re not tellprocessed lab samples. “They risked themselves ing them how to live by coming out and worktheir lives, but we ofing every day. It’s so imfer insights into how to portant to understand live the best versions of how much it takes.” themselves. I really felt like we changed lives.” Brett Kissela, M.D., senior associate dean of CARL FICHTENBAUM, M.D. clinical research at UC, infectious disease specialist C A R L F I C H T E N B AU M , understands. He was at UC’s College of Medicine M.D., had served on the also among Cincinnati’s front lines of the HIV frontline forces in 2020. Eighteen months later, he pandemic years ago, remembers the fear but which provided him a also recalls the clarity of glimpse of what was to purpose. “This is what we come in spring 2020. signed up for,” he says. “I’m going to be very busy,” he warned his wife, In the beginning, the who replied that wasn’t front line knew little BRETT KISSELA, M.D. anything new for the inabout how to fight the new senior associate dean of clinical research at UC fectious disease specialdis- CONTINUED ON PAGE 102

P H OTO G R A P H S C O U R T E SY ( TO P ) U N I V E R S I T Y O F C I N C I N N AT I C O L L E G E- C O N S E R VATO R Y O F M U S I C / ( B OT TO M ) U N I V E R S I T Y O F C I N C I N N AT I

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What would you give

to change a life? Break the cycle of fatherless children and become a mentor MENtors is a non profit organization that acts as a bridge between fatherless children and qualified supporting mentors. MENtors Book Club This year-round program encourages literacy by meeting quarterly to discuss preselected books.


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ORTHOPAEDICS AND SPORTS MEDICINE Beacon Orthopaedics & Sports Medicine Celebrating its 25th anniversary in Cincinnati, Beacon Orthopaedics is one of the largest and fastest growing orthopedic practices in the Midwest. With 25 locations across Ohio, Kentucky, and Indiana, our team has grown to 60+ expert physicians, making Beacon Ohio’s largest orthopedic practice. Beacon offers instant access to comprehensive orthopedic care, including sports medicine, physical therapy, athletic training, imaging services, regenerative medicine, as well as surgical procedures involving neck, spine, shoulder, elbow, hand, hip, knee, foot and ankle repair, reconstruction, and replacement. Beacon also provides medical direction and coverage for over 30 local high schools, five college athletics programs, and professional teams including the Cincinnati Reds. 500 E BUSINESS WAY, CINCINNATI, OH 45241, (513) 354-3700, WWW.BEACONORTHO.COM

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CONTEMPORARY FURNITURE

Bova Furniture Jennifer Benvie | Roony Mangat | Praddy Mangat | Bart Foster (Dogs) Archie | Zuri | Zarina | Rufio

Bova Furniture first opened its doors in Cincinnati in 1985. Since then we have expanded from offering Scandinavian style furniture to contemporary modern designs for every room in your home. Our 25,000-square-foot showroom features furniture from Europe, Canada, and the United States. We invite you visit us and experience the quality and design that Bova Furniture is known for. Our four resident golden retrievers will make sure you receive a warm welcome and make your experience a memorable one! 12130 ROYAL POINT DR., CINCINNATI, OH 45249, (513) 247-9100, WWW.BOVAFURNITURE.COM

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SEXUAL MEDICINE

Amy Brenner, MD & Associates Dr. Jennifer Thieman | Amanda Treon, CNM | Samantha Bauman, CNP | Dr. Amy Brenner | Melissa Berg, FNP-BC | Brittany Fowler, CNP Change your Oh No into OMG! At Amy Brenner, MD & Associates we help patients intensify orgasms, improve sexual desire, and elevate confidence in the bedroom. We believe sexual health needs to be prioritized and are proud to be Cincinnati’s Sexual Medicine experts. With several decades of combined experience and specialized training, our team provides treatments that help women increase their libido, mitigate painful intercourse, assist in urinary incontinence, and have better orgasms. In addition, our male treatments aid with intimate performance and erectile dysfunction. Our sexual health providers customize a treatment plan with one or more of our favorites, such as: O-Shot® for women, P-Shot® for men, Femtensity™, Himtensity™, Votiva, CORE Intima, MySecret® Cosmetic Gynecology, hormone optimization, and more! Visit our website or call to partner with us for your sexual health improvement journey. 6413 THORNBERRY COURT, MASON, OH 45040, (513) 770-0787, WWW.DRAMYBRENNER.COM

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OUTDOOR LIVING

Cincinnati Pool and Patio Mark Hicks | Jim Naber Cincinnati Pool & Patio has made backyard dreams a reality for over 50 years. For the last decade, Mark and Jim have elevated the outdoor space to the outdoor great room concept. Comfort, quality, and design are the primary drivers for delivering a beautiful entertainment area for your family and guests. Utilizing an extensive knowledge of outdoor design elements, engineering, hardscape, and landscape, they create truly remarkable outdoor living spaces that are not only gorgeous but are also affordable and turn key. “Designing a personalized living space around a customer’s needs and budget is what we specialize in. We incorporate pergolas, outdoor kitchens, pools, spas and patio furniture that all work together to create an extension of your indoor space just outside the back door.” This level of quality of work and design is what propels Cincinnati Pool & Patio to be the best in the city. 10731 READING RD., CINCINNATI, OH 45241, (513) 554-0000, WWW.CINCINNATIPOOLANDPATIO.COM

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HOPE FOR MENTAL ILLNESS AND ADDICTION

Lindner Center of HOPE

1 in 5 Americans suffer from mental illness. We are the faces to turn to for HOPE. Since 2008, Lindner Center of HOPE has served as a lifeline to tens of thousands who’ve struggled with mental illness or addiction. Mental illness and addiction can set those who struggle on a common journey, in search of one thing. Hope. Hope for answers and action. Empathy and excellence. Lasting change and confidence. Offering a wide range of mental health services and treatments in an atmosphere that promotes long-term healing, we are staffed by some of the nation’s best psychiatric experts. Lindner Center of HOPE is a place entirely dedicated to hope—and finding the path forward. Lindner Center of HOPE is distinguished as a psychiatric center of excellence for our breadth of expertise and depth of understanding. Leaders in psychiatric research, yet providing the highest degree of empathetic, individualized patient care. 4075 OLD WESTERN ROW RD., MASON, OH 45040, (513) 536-4673, WWW.LINDNERCENTEROFHOPE.ORG

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INSPIRING CONFIDENCE THROUGH SMILES

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Orthodontic Specialists Dr. Tera Poole | Dr. Daniel Noll | Dr. Allison Jacobs | (not pictured: Dr. Paige Rechtin)

Orthodontic Specialists inspires confidence in patients through beautiful smiles. Drs. Allison Jacobs, Daniel Noll, Tera Poole, and Paige Rechtin are highly trained in identifying and correcting a wide range of orthodontic issues in patients of all ages. This process is carried out in their state-of-the-art facility, which features cutting-edge technology, including digital scanning. They offer patients a variety of orthodontic solutions, from braces to Invisalign®. As a nationally recognized, top 1% Invisalign® provider, their practice has successfully treated over 4000 patients with Invisalign®. No down payment, 0% interest guaranteed and payments as low as $99 per month are offered to ensure treatment is available for every individual. Orthodontic Specialists has nine locations throughout Greater Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky: Colerain, Eastgate, Florence, Hamilton, Hebron, Kenwood, Liberty, Oakley, and West Chester. Call us today to schedule your free consultation and be on your way to a more confident future! (513) 772-6500, WWW.NODOWNPAYMENTSMILE.COM

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ADULT EDUCATION Union Institute & University “We want to change the face of American higher education.” When our founding president Dr. Sam Baskin said those words in 1964, Union Institute & University was just setting out on its journey to make higher education more accessible to all. Since then, we have learned that higher education has many faces—the Union experience has changed the lives of more than 21,000 graduates over the past 50+ years. As an adult-focused and diverse nonprofit university, Union offers online and low residency academic degree programs and certificates to highly motivated adult learners pursuing their educational goals. And because Union’s programs are predominantly online, students from across the U.S. and abroad can study from wherever they live and work. Graduates have gone on to become educators, elected leaders, advocates for social justice, and more and become forces for positive change in their communities and the world at large. 2090 FLORENCE AVE., CINCINNATI, OH 45206, (800) 861-6400, WWW.MYUNION.EDU

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HISTORIC PRESERVATION

Historic Madison, Indiana Nestled in the rolling hills along the Ohio River Scenic Byway, Madison, Indiana, emerges as the nation’s largest contiguous National Historic Landmark District with a jaw-dropping 133 historic blocks. The heart of this timeless community is rooted in Downtown Madison’s Main Street. The captivating stately buildings and historic homes set the stage for the vibrant arts and entertainment experience. Virtually every decade and architectural style of the 19th century is represented: Federal, Italianate, Greek, and Gothic revival galore! When viewing the multitude of magnificent mansions to humble shotgun cottages, it is apparent why Madison has been hailed as a true American treasure. Conveniently located between the metro areas of Cincinnati, Louisville, and Indianapolis, regional and national visitors alike delight in Madison’s diverse family, group, and pet friendly activities while also marveling at our unique historical built environment. Madison seeks to build on the foundations of our past to promote the promises of future memories yet to be made.

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VISIT MADISON, INC., 601W. FIRST ST., MADISON, IN 47250, 812 2652956, WWW.VISITMADISON.ORG

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CONNECTING AND SUPPORTING SENIORS

55 North Shelley Goering

Providing essential services for nearly 50 years, 55 North is a community-based nonprofit with the mission of supporting older adults so they remain healthy and active in their homes and connected to our community. With a new and innovative approach focused on the changing needs of older adults, 55 North provides individualized support services, including meals, transportation, crisis intervention, and health and wellness programs. The nonprofit recently rebranded, with a new name and new location to be more inclusive and expand the reach of services. Innovating the way essential services are delivered, 55 North has re-imagined and transformed its programming through technology and community partnerships. Creating this new vision is CEO Shelley Goering, whose leadership is complemented by her professional and personal experience advocating for older adults and people with disabilities. Shelley lives the mission and serves from the heart. 3975 ERIE AVE., CINCINNATI, OH 45208, (513) 312-6816, WWW.55NORTH.ORG

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DISINFECTION, CUSTODIAL, AND FACILITY SERVICES

Alpha & Omega Building Services, Inc. Jim Baker | Brian Crittenden | John Onnen | April Rahn | Nick Mahon

Since 2015 Alpha & Omega has provided GermStopTM Disinfection Services to commercial/industrial, academic, office, and event facilities in SW Ohio and Northern Kentucky. By providing essential disinfection services, Alpha & Omega has enabled countless organizations to keep their doors open by promoting a healthy, safe environment to their employees and visitors. Since 1986, Alpha & Omega has also specialized in custodial and maintenance services. Their commitment to quality and our environment has earned them the prestigious ISSA Cleaning Industry Management Standard (CIMS) Certification with Honors and Global Biorisk Advisory Council Certification. Customers choose to stay with Alpha & Omega, year after year, to ensure their staff and clients have a clean, safe, and comfortable environment. 11319 GROOMS RD., CINCINNATI, (513) 429-5082; 2843 CULVER AVE., DAYTON, (800) 838-7676, WWW.AOBUILDINGSERVICES.COM D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 7 9


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FINE FURNITURE & DESIGN Located just minutes from downtown Cincinnati in historic Ft. Thomas, Kentucky, sits one of the region’s best-kept secrets in home furnishings and interior design. Tracing its roots back to 1941, Best Furniture Gallery is celebrating 80 years of serving clients north and south of the river. Offering quality American-crafted furnishings and a shopping experience that will leave you wondering why you’ve yet to discover this gem, Best Furniture Gallery is dedicated to creating beautiful spaces that keep generations of families coming back time and again. When Carolynn and Craig Reis purchased the business in 2002, they became only the third owners and immediately set out to build the business and grow its offerings. Today, their 18,000-square-foot showroom showcases some of the finest home furnishing and accessories available, and their dedicated team works hard to ensure nothing less than the best possible experience from the moment you walk through the doors. 1123 S. FT. THOMAS AVE., FT. THOMAS, KY 41075, (859) 441-2378, WWW.BESTFURNITUREGALLERY.COM

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BONBONERIE

BonBonerie Mary Pat Pace | Sharon Butler

If you asked the people of Cincinnati what they think of when they hear the word BonBonerie, they would probably say opera cream tortes, scones, fancy pastries, or decorated cookies. Or perhaps the last time they enjoyed afternoon tea with a friend. For over 38 years we have been working our way into the hearts and traditions of greater Cincinnati families, simultaneously expanding ways to delight them while expanding into every inch of our Madison Road address. Creating beautiful and delicious pastries takes a great recipe, excellent ingredients, and talented minds and hands. We’ve been fortunate to have hundreds of past employees contribute their gifts to keep BonBonerie thriving. Our love for art in our work and on the walls has sustained our passion. In the end, however, we really just want you to enjoy our delicious and beautiful pastries and to make you smile when you think of BonBonerie. 2030 MADISON RD., CINCINNATI, OH 45208, (513) 321-3399, WWW.BONBONERIE.COM

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PAIN MANAGEMENT

Cincinnati Pain Physicians Michelle Khosla, CNP | Calvin Feng, MD | Gururau Sudarshan, MD FRCA The field of medicine in general and pain medicine in particular is at an interesting crossroads. The role of corporations and private equities is well recognized throughout the medical community with more than 50% of solo/private practitioners opting to sell their practices to larger groups, consolidated organizations, and private equities. This often results in a volume driven approach of practicing medicine in a manner most acceptable to the organizations and private equities. Cincinnati Pain Physicians is an outcome based solo practice that strives to differentiate itself from a large corporate model and create a standard of care for the patient where each patient gets the individualized care and time they deserve. This approach is especially important in the field of pain management where each patient’s need is unique, and it ultimately yields the best outcome for patients from a healthcare and affordability perspective. 8261 CORNELL RD., STE 630, CINCINNATI, OH 45249, (513) 891-0022, WWW.CINCINNATIPAINPHYSICIANS.COM

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VISUAL MARKETING STRATEGIES

Decal Impressions

Since 1969, Decal Impressions has been serving clients from coast to coast, helping them make lasting, positive impressions on their business. By integrating our knowledge of traditional craft, coupled with cutting-edge printing and digital technologies, we continue to be a vital asset for our customers. The experience of our seasoned team members paired with the fresh perspective of our young talent allows us to offer powerful and strategic solutions with proven results. From print to digital, our team’s understanding of visual marketing will help you find the best solution for your marketing needs. Reach out to us online, in person, or over the phone. Our committed team is here to help you make a good impression. 2111 KINDEL AVE., CINCINNATI, OH 45214, (513) 721-3801, WWW.DECALIMPRESSIONS.COM

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PURPOSEFUL RETIREMENT LIVING Deupree House in Hyde Park It’s easy for people to identify their purpose while they’re working. After retirement, though, it can be challenging to find and live out that purpose. Once you know what purposeful living means for you, it’s time to put it into practice. It’s easy to pursue your newfound passions when you move to an independent living retirement community such as Deupree House in Hyde Park. When you don’t have to worry about or spend time on home upkeep and maintenance, you’ll have the freedom to do what you want to do. We have volunteer programs to join if that’s something you feel called to do. You’ll have control over your life and the support and benefits of the community around you. No matter your passion and purpose, it’s time for you to start living it fully at Deupree House. 3870 VIRGINIA AVE., CINCINNATI, OH 45227, (513) 271-9610, WWW.EPISCOPALRETIREMENT.COM

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CAREER EDUCATION Great Oaks Career Campuses When our first class started in 1971, Great Oaks Career Campuses was known as the Hamilton County Joint Vocational School District. We started with a single campus and plans for a second. Now, Great Oaks has four campuses with satellite programs in 28 school districts, and serves over 23,000 students each year. As one of the largest career and technical education districts in Ohio, Great Oaks strives to stay at the leading edge of technology and industry demands to develop a workforce on which employers have come to rely. We continue to be responsive to the ebb and flow of in-demand jobs to keep our students and our community competitive in a global marketplace. Great Oaks Career Campuses understands now, more than ever, the importance of training a skilled workforce to fill in-demand jobs and provide students the necessary skills for career success. 110 GREAT OAKS DR., CINCINNATI, OH 45040, (513) 771-8840, WWW.GREATOAKS.COM

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HerMD

Lexi Grosvenor, Aesthetician | Donna Abdelnour, AGNP, FNP | Dr. Somi Javaid, MD | Jackie Martin, DNP, APRN, CNM | Rachel Fischer-Munoz, MSN, APRN, FNP-C Finally, a female-focused approach to health & wellness. HerMD provides women with comprehensive health care. From gynecology and menopause to sexual health and medical aesthetics, our female-focused centers provide a safe, trusted space for women to address all of their health and wellness needs, no matter how personal. HerMD strives to make every patient’s experience remarkable. Within our warm and welcoming centers, you’ll find state-of-the-art equipment, cutting edge procedures and knowledgeable staff who will keep you feeling and looking your best. You deserve a women’s wellness team, led by a board certified physician, that listens to your concerns, respects your lifestyle choices and puts your health and wellness first. Please visit us at our Cincinnati, Ohio, or Crescent Springs, Kentucky, locations for gynecology, menopause, sexual health, or aesthetics. 8350 EAST KEMPER RD., SUITE A, CINCINNATI, OH 45249, (513) 404- 4166; 562 BUTTERMILK PIKE SUITE A, CRESCENT SPRINGS, KY 41017, (859) 349-1515,WWW.HERMDHEALTH.COM

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DESIGNER LUXURY HANDBAGS & JEWELRY

Jacob James Bella Randle | Michelle Randle | Sharon Lutz

Jacob James blends today’s fashion trends with yesterday’s luxury. Whether you are looking for a new piece or hoping to add another chapter to a previously loved item, Jacob James is the store for all your luxury and designer needs. We offer an array of fine jewelry, estate jewelry, and pre-loved designer handbags to meet every price point. Sourced from all over the world, our merchandise is unique and unlike what any other store has to offer. At Jacob James you will find handbags from Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Hermes, and many other top fashion houses. We carry the world’s most exclusive designers for a fraction of the original price. So the next time you are in Hyde Park, stop by Jacob James…you never know what treasures might be awaiting you! 3446 EDWARDS RD., CINCINNATI, OH 45208, (513) 376-6288, WWW.SHOPJACOBJAMES.COM

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INSIGHTFUL INVESTING

Peter D. McColgan - Senior Vice President, Investments - Wells Fargo Advisors

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It has been an exceptional year! Working from home has proven to be a very productive time for many, and Peter believes his clients have enjoyed their working relationship with him in these uncertain times. For 31 years, he has helped clients develop investment strategies that help meet their objectives. Peter’s experience as a financial advisor gives him a good perspective on market behavior, Company Name Goes Hereand his knowledge of and access to an expansive array of investments and platforms provides him the tools necessary to help clients succeed financially. His investment team provides comprehensive planning Name Namely | Name Namerson Name Namely | Name Namerson | Namestrategies Namelyaligned | focusedNamerson on achieving| Name your unique financial objectives. Peter |collaborates with you to help keep investment Name Namely | Name with ever-changing goals Namerson and needs. | Name Namely | Name Namerson | Name Namely

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8044no MONTGOMERY RD.,Union SUITE 570, CINCINNATI, OH 45236, 985-2170, WWW.WFADVISORS.COM/PETER.MCCOLGAN It’s accident that Savings Bank (USB) and (513) Guardian Savings Bank (GSB) are the top mortgage lenders in the Cincinnati region. We believe in home ownership for all. We make it our business to make our loans as affordable as possible. We offer a variety of products to meet all of Investment our customer’s needs. From buyingare: a first home, to a bigger home, to a dream and Insurance Products home, to refinancing a current home, the teams at USB and GSB make home ownership dreams Agency come true. It’s our people • Not Insured by the FDIC or Any Federal Government who make the difference. From owners Louis Beck and Harry Yeaggy to board members like Anthony loan officers • Not a Deposit or Other Obligation of, or Guaranteed by, the Munoz Bank ortoAny Bank Affiliate who guide you through every step of the process, our entire team is here for you through the life of your loan. Reach out to us • Subject to Investment Risks, Including Possible Loss of the Principal Amount Invested online, in person, or over the phone. Home ownership begins with USB and GSB. Wells Fargo Advisors is a trade name used by Wells Fargo Clearing Services, LLC, Members 1234 E. SESAME ST., CINCINNATI, OH 45XXX, (513) 123-4567, FAKEURLNAME.ORG/FAKE-NOT-REAL SIPC, a registered broker-dealer and non-bank affiliate of Wells Fargo & Company. [CAR-1121-00109].

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BIOHEALTH IN THE CITY OF MASON

Photograph by Andrew Doench

City of Mason BioHub Mason BioHub Partners: Michele Blair, Jessica Johnson, Peeyush Shrivastava, Kavita Bhat, Don Wright, Tyler Vandivort, Sandra Gunselman, James Lin, John Dreyer Mason’s BioHub is an infrastructure of partnerships for industry-leading companies with science forward innovations across genomics, cardiology, and mental health. This focused public-private partnership (P3) has born a hub of research and discovery. Mason’s role as early-adopters of technology of some of those featured here with the City’s Living Lab model has brought regional and global distinction to Mason. Scientific breakthroughs, patents, clinical trials, lab space, access to capital/ venture funds, partners, and collaboration have grown exponentially. From P&G Health & Beauty HQ to Reliance Medical, the portfolio is diverse and extensive. Featured here are a few of the companies in the Mason BioHub – Genetesis’s CardioFluxTM – biomagnetic imaging; Myriad Neuroscience’s Genesight – mental health personalized medicine; Clarigent – AI/machine learning technology for mental health; Amplicore – injectable therapeutics for degenerative musculoskeletal disorders; Mobility Health – mobile diagnostic lab and comprehensive digital platform; AtriCure – innovates technologies for treating Afib and related conditions. CITY OF MASON BIOHUB COLAB – WWW.WHYMASON.COM, FEATURED – GENETESIS.COM, GENESIGHT.COM, CLARIGENTHEALTH.COM, AMPLICOREPHARMA.COM, MOBILITYHEALTHLAB.COM, ATRICURE.COM

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allowing seniors to remain healthy, and independent inSavings their homes. Steele haslenders led thein nonprofi It’s no accident that Union Savingshappy, Bank (USB) and Guardian Bank Over (GSB)the arelast the year, top mortgage the t through transformative change,inmaking the organization of theitlargest Meals on in the country throughasapossible. Cincinnati region. We believe home ownership for all.one We make our business to Wheels make our loans as affordable strategic merger with Area Senior (CASS). The innovative nonprofi t leadership Steelehome, has provided We offer a variety ofCincinnati products to meet all ofServices our customer’s needs. From buying a first home, to aby bigger to a dream major community impact and successfully a $4and million Scott, which will true. help It’s Steele her home, to refinancing a current home, theresulted teams atinUSB GSB grant make from homeMcKenzie ownership dreams come our and people team on Aging” GreaterLouis Cincinnati with creative long-term solutions. Steele was recently appointed to cers the whotackle makethe the“Crisis difference. Frominowners Beck and Harry Yeaggy to board members like Anthony Munoz to loan offi Meals Wheels of Directors. whoon guide you America through Board every step of the process, our entire team is here for you through the life of your loan. Reach out to us online, in person, or over the phone. Home ownership begins with USB and GSB. 2091 RADCLIFF DR., CINCINNATI, OH 45204, (513) 661-2777, WWW.MUCHMORETHANAMEAL.ORG 1234 E. SESAME ST., CINCINNATI, OH 45XXX, (513) 123-4567, FAKEURLNAME.ORG/FAKE-NOT-REAL

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Mitchell’s Salon & Day Spa and Pump Salon Logan Mitchell Hines

We have been locally owned and operated since 1983—38 years! My mom Deborah was an Oak Hills and UC accounting graduate with a vision when she opened this wonderful business, which has turned into a family. I literally grew up within these walls; my heart and soul is here. I’m an only child, and I like to say the business is the sibling I never had! My mom passed away in May, and carrying on this beautiful legacy she created and fostered has never meant more to me. We are always learning, growing, evolving—continuing education helps us keep our creative fires burning and ensures our clients are getting our best. During our COVID closure, we sold donation gift certificates, and seeing our beautiful clients want to support this community speaks volumes about their support. I smile every day because I get to carry on my mom’s vision with my Mitchell’s family. KENWOOD, HYDE PARK, TRI-COUNTY, WEST CHESTER, AND ROOKWOOD COMMONS, (513) 793-0900, WWW.MITCHELLSSALON. COM; WWW.PUMPSALON.COM, (513) 841-1110

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Mona Dermatology Dr. Mona Foad

Dr. Mona Foad has been in private practice in Cincinnati as a board-certified dermatologist since 2002. Her vision for what heath care should be came to life through her Kenwood-based practice, Mona Dermatology, where she and her team care for patients through cosmetic, medical, and surgical dermatology. Dr. Mona’s impact has grown exponentially over the last 19 years, and allowed her to achieve several accolades, including: Cincinnati Magazine Top Doctor for the past 14 years and national trainer for Allergan, the maker of Botox and Juvederm. Mona Dermatology has also been named a top practice among all plastic surgeons, cosmetic dermatologists, and medspas nationally in the “Allergan Top 250.” Dr. Mona grew up here in Cincinnati and has made it her mission to help the community achieve healthy, beautiful skin, and to treat them as she would want her loved ones to be treated. 7730 MONTGOMERY RD., CINCINNATI, OH 45236, (513) 984-4800, WWW.MONADERMATOLOGY.COM

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Pearce Dental Group Dr. Jon Barry | Dr. Troy Pearce | Dr. Jim Simpson | Dr. Tara Aboumahboub | Dr. Sheri Crawford Pearce Dental Group has been making patients smile on Fountain Square for nearly 80 years! Our patients are accustomed to our family atmosphere and enjoy our commitment to the latest techniques and technologies. Our five doctors lead the most enthusiastic dental team in an innovative downtown location that is known for its museum-like elegance and original artwork by a local photographer. A truly inspirational and unique space filled with smiles! Known as Cincinnati’s Virtual Cosmetic Dentist, Dr. Troy Pearce loves creating natural looking smiles with the help of his unique process. Combining digital technology and imaging, he is able to collaborate with his patients to design the smiles of their dreams. His patients appreciate being able to complete veneers, crowns, dental implants, and Invisalign in the same location, making the process simple and efficient. Drs Pearce, Simpson, Crawford, Barry, and Aboumahboub enjoy being able to connect with their patients on their smile journey. Confidence starts with a smile! 425 WALNUT ST., SUITE 201, CINCINNATI, OH 45202, (513) 651-0110,WWW.PEARCEDENTALGROUP.COM D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 9 3


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The Plastic Surgery Group Surgery As An Art Our mission is to help you look great at every age. With our patient-focused approach, we emphasize education, patient safety, comfort, confidentiality, wellness, and, most important, your goals. With more than 100 years of combined surgical experience, you can rely on our expertise. The surgeons and staff of The Plastic Surgery Group work tirelessly to provide the most up-to-date information on the latest plastic and cosmetic surgical and non-surgical options available. We’ll take the time to listen and work with you to help design your new look. We have created one of the most comprehensive plastic surgery websites available and invite you to visit our Before and After Gallery to view results from actual patients. If you’ve ever contemplated a cosmetic procedure, you owe it to yourself to have a complimentary consultation with one of our esteemed surgeons at one of our three convenient locations. 4850 RED BANK RD., CINCINNATI, OH 45227; 340 THOMAS MORE PKWY., CRESTVIEW HILLS, KY 41017; 7162 LIBERTY CENTRE DR., SUITE C, WEST CHESTER, OH 45069; WWW.THEPLASTICSURGERYGROUP.COM

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Jonathan Price - Coldwell Banker Realty

A dynamic, passionate Realtor, licensed in Ohio, Kentucky, and Indiana, Jonathan closes nearly 100 residential and commercial transactions every 18 months. His production pace is outstanding, yet he attributes his success in real estate to realizing how humbling the business can be. “It is a privilege to be a trusted advisor for real people, families, businesses, friends, who are relying on me to be urgent, creative, to negotiate expertly and close on a specific property—so that their dreams can be achieved.” In this once-in-a-generation, highly competitive environment, he has learned to grow the business by listening assertively, which allows him to navigate complex market conditions through his experience and intuition. Buying, selling, building, and developing, he is creating tremendous value throughout greater Cincinnati. His formula: “A strong faith, a grateful attitude, a sense of urgency, waking up every morning excited to have the chance to win for my clients.” 9321 MONTGOMERY RD., CINCINNATI, OH 45242, (513) 484-1415, WWW.JONATHANPRICE.CBINTOUCH.COM, FACEBOOK.COM/JONATHANVPRICE

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THE LAW FIRM FOR THE DENTAL PROFESSION Dr. Frank Recker practiced general dentistry in Cincinnati for 15 years and served as a member of the Ohio State Dental Board for six years before leaving the practice of general dentistry and entering the full time practice of law. His primary areas of law are professional licensing matters before state dental boards, malpractice defense, dental practice related legal issues, and litigation involving dentists. He advises health care professionals and national professional associations in risk management, First Amendment, and other related issues. He lectures nationally on these and related topics and has represented hundreds of health care professionals throughout the United States in a multitude of legal matters. He has also served as legal counsel for several national professional dental organizations, including the American Academy of Implant Dentistry, the American Association of Dental Boards, the American Society of Dentists Anesthesiologists, the American Academy of Oral Medicine, the American Academy of Orofacial Pain, and the American Academy of Cosmetic Dentistry. 810 MATSON PLACE, UNIT 1101, CINCINNATI, OH 45204, (800) 224-3529, WWW.DDSLAW.COM

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Frank R. Recker & Associates Co., L.P.A. Annie Schneider | Debra Knowlton | Frank Recker | Mac Recker | (Not pictured: Susan Cronan, Dr. Thomas Perrino, Emily Wall)



A MONUMENT TO SHAME CONTINUED FROM PAGE 55

truss design. But the reassurances from experts fail to keep visions of Mothman from fluttering before the eyes of residents like Beverly Reed of Mt. Auburn. “I value my life too much to trust it,” she posted on Facebook. “And I’m old enough to remember the Silver Bridge collapse [when a bridge over the Ohio River collapsed in 1967, killing 46 people]. ... Trust your gut!” Included in the new federal bill is the Bridge Investment Act that Ohio Sen. Sherrod Brown, a Democrat, has been trying to pass through Congress since early 2017. Republican Rob Portman joined

the Brent Spence Bridge.” The Brent Spence is now the second most congested truck bottleneck in the U.S., up from eighth just a year ago, according to rankings released in February by the American Transportation Research Institute. That’s hardly the kind of publicity needed for a region that likes to tout itself as a major distribution and logistics center. Antony Coutsoftides, CEO of Legion Logistics in Newport, says freight handlers try their best not to route trucks through Cincinnati or over the Brent Spence if it can be done without adding too much mileage. For freight that can’t avoid the I-75 crossing, he says, “we plan on adding an hour to an hour and a half because you don’t know if there’s going to be an accident or a breakdown on the bridge.” Regional planners unveiled a detailed plan for the bridge fix as far back as 2011. It calls for revamping a 7.8-mile stretch of the I-71/75 corridor and building a new double-decker bridge just west of the Brent

BESIDES EASING DAILY COMMUTES AND TRUCKING DELAYS, A NEW BRIDGE WOULD PUSH GROWTH AT CVG, AN E-COMMERCE HUB THAT’S NOW THE COUNTRY’S SEVENTH LARGEST AIRPORT. Brown in that push starting in 2019. Together, the two Ohio senators were instrumental in allocating $12.5 billion in the infrastructure bill toward bridge rehabilitation and replacement. A new competitive program will finally provide a federal grant large enough to cover up to half the cost of large bridge replacement projects. Kentucky and Ohio can also use their federal highway funds on top of that competitive grant. The total federal contribution could be up to 80 percent, to be determined between the U.S. Department of Transportation and Ohio and Kentucky transportation officials. Policinski believes the Brent Spence Bridge, infamous as a national transportation bottleneck, will have no problem winning one of the federal grants. “If you are someone working in infrastructure,” he says, “you know about

Spence to carry five lanes of southbound I-71/75 traffic on the upper deck and six lanes of northbound I-75 traffic and local southbound traffic on the lower deck. The Brent Spence would be refurbished to handle two lanes of northbound I-71 on the upper deck and three lanes of northbound local traffic on the lower deck. A decade after its release, the basics of the plan are still favored by regional planners and transportation officials, though the estimated cost has of course grown. But those costs pale in comparison to the cost of doing nothing, a price tag that grows by the minute in fuel, construction costs, and lost economic opportunities for the region, not to mention accidents and lives lost. A 2012 study by Northern Kentucky University estimated the new bridge project would support 24,000 jobs in the

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Cincinnati metropolitan area over the 10year construction phase and generate $1.9 billion in labor income here. In addition to the economic activity generated from the construction work, state and local jurisdictions stand to gain an estimated $193 million in tax revenues. Harder to put a number on, and perhaps just as important, is what a major new bridge will do for the continuing growth of Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky International Airport (CVG) as a center for ecommerce, Policinski says. “The driving force of our regional economy for the next 20 years is the airport,” he said. “It’s now the seventh largest in America, built on e-commerce from Amazon, DHL, and all the companies locating around it. And it’s not just about landing planes and getting trucks in and out. It’s about developing world-class technologies.” Policinski says the CVG campus is already being used as an innovation center for companies around the world wanting to develop cutting-edge technologies for distribution and delivery, including driverless cars, drones, and hyperloops that propel vehicles through low-pressure tubes at airliner speeds. Under the new bill, the economic impact of fixing the bridge is likely to be even greater than the original estimates, Brown says. “We have much stronger ‘Buy American’ provisions in the bill than we’ve ever had. Meaning it’s not just creating good union jobs to rebuild the bridge itself—iron workers and pipefitters and others—it also mandates that all the steel and all the cement will be American made.” THE INFRASTRUCTURE BILL MAY AT last be the federal godsend the region was hoping for, but national transportation expert Kevin DeGood of the Center for American Progress says Ohio’s and Kentucky’s political leaders could have solved the Brent Spence problem by now. Like Dorothy clicking her heels to return home, the money was always there but not the political will. “Congress has given Ohio and Kentucky a lot of money over the years, but they just haven’t spent it on the Brent Spence Bridge,” DeGood says. “What they’ve been hoping for all along is that the federal, says OKI’s Mark Policinski, gov-


ernment will bail them out.” Large infrastructure projects force state officials to make hard political choices, he says. “Governors and state transportation directors in Ohio and Kentucky would have to tell some of their respective Senate and House delegations, Sorry, for the next two years we have to put money into the Brent Spence Bridge and that means, for instance, your roadway widening and improvement project to support new housing developments will have to wait. So, if you do the Brent Spence, you’ve got to say ‘no’ to a lot of other projects and a lot of other legislators. Nobody wants to say that.” Since the new bridge plan was made public a decade ago, both Ohio and Kentucky leaders chose to finance other expensive transportation projects with far less payoff for taxpayers. Although the population of Portsmouth, Ohio, has declined by half since the 1940s to around 20,000 people today, that didn’t stop the Ohio Department of Transportation and Gov. Mike DeWine from approving a $646 million, 16-mile, four-lane bypass around the small city in Scioto County as a dubious means of economic development for the area, DeGood says. The state funds would have been better spent cleaning up the area’s extensive brownfields, which are the true impediment to redevelopment, he says. In Kentucky, state transportation officials and then-Gov. Matt Bevin decided in 2017 that adding lanes for Interstate 471 between U.S. 27 and the Ohio River was more important than rehabbing the Brent Spence and building a new bridge between Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky. The bridge rehab and new build would have cost the state about $1.5 billion, according to the Kentucky Transportation Cabinet. The I-471 project came in at $1.8 billion. A big reason state officials, particularly those in Kentucky, have shied away from prioritizing a fix for the Brent Spence mess is that it would mean taking the politically unpopular position of charging tolls to finance the project. That’s how state and local governments typically borrow money against issuing bonds to raise funds for big ticket D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 9 9


A MONUMENT TO SHAME transportation projects, DeGood says. “Everybody wants to operate under the delusion that you can build a nearly $3 billion bridge without having to toll it,” DeGood says. “Why? Because everybody wants to continue to get for free what they’ve historically gotten for free. But at some point local and state officials have this come-toJesus moment when they realize the only way this is ever going to get done is if we toll it.” That epiphany for officials in both states came in 2015, when former governors John Kasich of Ohio and Steve Beshear of Kentucky announced tolls for a new Brent Spence Bridge. Months before the announcement, anti-tax groups were already rallying opposition, calling the tolls “a tax on working people” even though bridge commuters, not taxpayers, would be paying the proposed $1-a-trip fee as they would for any other service or convenience. Taking a cue from the protests, the Kentucky House voted 82–7 in 2014 to pass a bill prohibiting tolls on any federal interstate between Ohio and Kentucky. Bevin signed the bill. But when he changed his mind during a gubernatorial debate late in his 2019 campaign, Northern Kentucky voters threw their support behind his opponent, Democratic Attorney General Andy Beshear, son of Steve Beshear. The tolling plan was met from the very beginning with an onslaught of misinformation from opponents, including the lie that tolls would cost bridge commuters $10 a day, Policinski says. During a 2015 hearing in Covington City Council, “a guy was passing out cards to everyone attending the meeting that the tolls will be $5 each way, and what this would mean to their salary over a year. That [lie] immediately went into the DNA of Northern Kentucky.” In fact, commuters with an electronic pass would pay $1 each way and those without would pay $2, with light trucks paying $5. In the end, Ohio and Kentucky leaders threw up their hands and decided to wait for the federal government to rescue them, DeGood says. That strategy—though costly in time, money, and lives—seems now to have finally worked thanks to the political “trifecta” of a Democratic president and Democratic majorities in Congress. That wasn’t the case in 2009, Brown

says, when he first tried pushing for additional federal funding for the bridge as part of President Obama’s stimulus package during the Great Recession. The final version of Obama’s American Recovery and Reinvestment Act was scaled back by a Republican Senate to $787 billion, too little in the opinion of most economists to kickstart the economy at that time. “Some of that money went to bridges, but it wasn’t anything like the money now,” Brown says. Trump, too, had promised to do something about the Brent Spence mess while he was in the White House, Brown says. “He looked me in the eye and said he was going to build it. And then in late 2017 [the Republicans] changed their minds and did a big tax cut, with 70 percent of the cuts going to the richest 1 percent of the people in the country. Infrastructure just got forgotten.” Both Brown and Portman pushed the Bridge Investment Act in 2019 until it reached the influential Senate Environment and Public Works Committee. But it got no further, thanks to Mitch McConnell, who was then Senate Majority Leader and husband of then-U.S. Secretary of Transportation Elaine Chao. The response to the 2020 pandemic created another opportunity for stimulus funding, and in March Brown reached out to Portman again for help with the bill on the Republican side. After two terms as a senator from Ohio, Portman had announced in January that he wasn’t seeking re-election in 2022 because “it’s harder and harder to break through the partisan gridlock and make progress.” Portman agreed to lead the Republican negotiations “in part, because he wanted to put Ohio on a realistic path toward getting the Brent Spence Bridge project done,” according to an e-mail from his media staff. Portman was able to sway 10 Republican senators to vote for the bill, but not Kentucky Sen. Rand Paul, who voted nay because he said the bill was tied to the Democrats’ $3.5 trillion “partisan blowout” social spending package. NOT EVERYONE IN THE REGION IS thrilled with the prospect of a new bridge. Covington officials say the current plan will devastate its business community, stifle economic growth in Northern Kentucky,

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and destroy large swaths of its housing stock and tax base—four times as much area as the original Brent Spence Bridge did in the 1960s. “We’re not against progress,” says Covington City Manager Ken Smith, “but we don’t want to be the victims of progress either.” In an opinion piece published on the city’s website in March, Covington elected officials, including Mayor Joe Meyer, argued that the proposed 16-lane, doubledecker bridge complex is nearly a third bigger than needed and will increase southbound congestion where I-75 reverts to four lanes at Kyles Lane. Adding insult to injury, they wrote, the plan will reduce southbound access to Covington to a single exit with an entrance ramp back at the Cincinnati Museum Center, long before motorists can even see the city. If tolls become part of the fix, diverting motorists and truckers will flood the historic Roebling Suspension Bridge and wreak havoc on the city’s side streets. Covington officials would prefer a plan that shifted the new bridge to another part of the region, preferably east and away from their own community. But Policinski says that’s no longer feasible. Environmental impact studies already completed for the original Brent Spence Bridge could be adapted to a parallel bridge west of it. Any other location would mean new environmental studies and adding years, perhaps a decade, in construction delays and hundreds of millions of dollars in costs. But where Cincinnati has feared to tread, Louisville has gone boldly forth in the last decade. Local and state leaders in Kentucky and Indiana decided in 2009 that something had to be done about the bottlenecks at Louisville’s two outdated downtown bridges as well as the nearby tangled intersection of I-64, I-65, and I-71, dubbed “Spaghetti Junction” by locals. “The more we studied the problem, the more we realized it wasn’t a matter of ‘if,’ it was a matter of ‘how’ we were going to fix it,” says Charles Buddeke, the former chair of the Louisville and Southern Indiana Bridges Authority. The 14-member panel of business and community leaders was charged by the governors of the two states with the unenviable task of coming up with a solution and a way to finance it.


Like the Brent Spence, emergency lanes had been eliminated on both Louisville bridges to increase traffic flow. But by the early 2000s, the bridges “were an enormous bottleneck. People didn’t know whether they were going to get home in 20 minutes or two hours,” Buddeke says. The bridge authority held neighborhood meetings around the affected region every month for three years, took in what they heard, and modified their plans accordingly, Buddeke says. And although the same anti-toll protesters showed up at every meeting, including one who held a sign declaring somehow that “Tolls Kill!” the authority came to the conclusion that charging tolls was the only way forward in the midst of the Great Recession and limited government funds. The authority struck a balance between charging a $1 toll for frequent commuters and shrinking the size of the project until it could be financed half by state and federal highway funds and half by toll-backed bond issues. In the end, the $2.3 billion project created a new I-65 bridge with six northbound lanes, straightened out Spaghetti Junction, rehabbed the existing Kennedy Bridge, and built a new East End Bridge eight miles upstream from downtown. The entire project was completed by 2016. While Buddeke says “busloads of people, smart people” were behind the push for the new bridges, he still hears five years later from people thanking him for the project and “knowing what time they’re getting home each day.” The antitollers? “We don’t hear much from them,” he says. “The tolls became insignificant in the long run.” The ultimate credit, he says, belongs to then-governors Steve Beshear of Kentucky and Mitch Daniels of Indiana, who took the political risk to get the job done. Tolls or no tolls, the question is whether Greater Cincinnati, like Louisville, will find the political courage to remedy what has become a stenotic artery choking the region’s economic life blood and transportation safety. Brown says he’s hopeful.“Kentucky seems a bit reluctant, but Kentucky has to step up and do this,” he says. “We will see this bridge built.”

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ease. Kissela marvels at how quickly they learned. “Science did more to defeat this virus in a year than it’s done in decades of research on many other diseases,” he says. “When you’re facing what you think is a life and death situation, you become more efficient because you have to be. It’s hard not to wonder why we can’t do all of the science as fast as we did with COVID.” Fichtenbaum thinks analogies could help the vaccine-hesitant understand how

writing. She walked a cobbled medieval street, crafting similes to capture the effect of lights dangling overhead (“Like a raindrop frozen above me”). But literary exercises, as well as residence in a foreign country, proved unsustainable as COVID swept the globe. The associate English professor came home to NKU, her brain feeling like a beehive. She returned to her discipline, poetry, and contributed to Ferrante’s book by highlighting how poetry can help students find peace when the brain bees start swirling. “I can’t be a therapist,” she says. “But I can help them if they’re interested in trying to have a moment of calm.” Through daily reading of online poetry, Moffett was able to pause and be fully attentive. At first, this was all she could do. But as the pandemic quarantine wore on, safe in an Emily Dickinson-like space,

HISTORY’S GREAT PHILOSOPHERS STUDIED THE DISTINCTION BETWEEN TRUTH AND FANTASY, SAYS XAVIER’S TIMOTHY QUINN. “COVID JUST INTENSIFIED THE NEED FOR RAISING THESE KINDS OF QUESTIONS” TODAY. science produced a safe vaccine in record time. He describes two people building a house. In one scenario, the person has no equipment or money and is doing the project alone. Construction takes forever. In the second, a bank provides unlimited funds, the builders have supplies, and 80 friends volunteer to help. “We could put a house up in a weekend,” he says. “That’s exactly what we did with the vaccines. We put thousands and thousands of people on this project and threw billions of dollars at them.” The result seems like a medical miracle. Fichtenbaum sees it as a model for solving other big societal problems. “It’s about how we all pull together as a group, set aside our differences, and work together for a common goal.” WHEN THE PANDEMIC HIT, KELLY MOFfett was in Romania teaching creative

she suddenly craved stimulation—so she forced herself into an uncomfortable place, an online writing workshop. “It made me realize how brave my students must be,” she says. Moffett sought new mentors, forced herself to write, and invited critique, even when it was painful. She binge-watched online webinars during lunch. “I was getting brilliant ideas, some about teaching, some about poetry, some about identity,” she says. “I found it exhilarating.” She even reinvented her poetic style. “Here we are in isolation, and suddenly I learn how to speak to other people,” she says. As the current school year approached, Moffett considered how her pandemic experience would affect her classroom style. The poetry teacher is used to questions about relevance. Her art fulfills one of life’s most basic needs, she says: human connection. Consider John Keats and his

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famous line: Here’s my hand, I hold it out to you. “He’s long dead, but I feel he’s holding out his hand to me,” says Moffett. “Time has collapsed. One human is talking to another human in this tiny bit of language on this page.” She vows to spend less time evaluating her students’ metaphors and more time honoring the emotions they express. She wants them to know, I feel your pain. I hear you. She can’t be a therapist, but she can be present. And through poetry, they can be heard. TIMOTHY QUINN FOUND HIMSELF DEEP in ancient texts during the pandemic, not necessarily searching for answers. He’s a philosopher studying the ultimate questions: What’s the meaning of health? What constitutes truth? “Those are particularly salient questions today,” he says. Philosophy doesn’t teach you how to do things, Quinn acknowledges, “but it does explain why you need to do things and helps give clarity about events.” It distinguishes bad from good. And that can lead to a rational understanding of seemingly irrational events, like a pandemic. Quinn has been prompting students at Xavier University to consider life’s most profound questions since 1987. In his signature course, “Philosophical Perspective,” he immerses them in the writings of 16th and 17th century philosophers such as Machiavelli, Bacon, and Descartes. Then he urges them to ponder how science and technology shape society’s values. The texts rarely change, but the lessons fluctuate frequently. “Philosophical Perspectives” is a required course at Xavier, so students come from all majors. In the pandemic year, Quinn noted an influx from the health sciences. Many were working in hospitals, observing the precarious nature of life every day. For them, philosophy’s great books revealed questions about the distinction between truth and fantasy. “They’re all part and parcel of philosophy,” Quinn says. “COVID intensified the need for raising these kinds of questions.” Quinn sees his discipline as a grounding force in a period of emotion and divisiveness. “Philosophy cultivates openness and rationality,” he says. “It’s against


extreme passion. It can help people lead rational, thoughtful lives. It’s really embedded in every aspect of my life—my relationship with my kids, my students, my government, the current age. Everything.” He knows the public might view the philosophical life as aloof from reality. He sees the opposite. “It’s about the world we live in,” he says. “Everybody has a philosopher inside them somewhere.” THE CRISIS CAN BE MANAGED. THAT’S the insight Nana Arthur-Mensah shared in her essay on organizational leadership in Ferrante’s book. The strategies she teaches to NKU organizational leadership students sound deceptively simple. Confront a crisis with empathy and vulnerability, flexibility and transparency. Follow your ethical compass; values are important. And always nurture good followers. Arthur-Mensah acknowledges that few in today’s culture recognize the power of followers, but she’s made them a research focus. “Followers is not a bad word,” she says. “If there’s a leader, there has to be a follower.” She thinks of the organizations emerging from this crisis relatively stable—she won’t say “unscathed,” since everyone was scathed—and theorizes it’s because leaders and followers worked together. If given the tools, the permission, and the power, followers will rise to support leaders and they will be effective, she tells her students. “But you’ve got to empower them.” Arthur-Mensah teaches courses on ethics and leading change. The pandemic presented a world of case studies; some were positive, others were models of dysfunction. She notes companies that focused on saving money vs. saving their people. In the long run, the cost of such decisions may be high. “We as people have all been changed,” she says. “People are looking at what is important. Employees want flexibility and understanding. They know there are alternatives.” Arthur-Mensah, an empty nester, says she was ready to return to campus this past summer. But different people require different circumstances, and she says leaders must focus on differences in race, gender, sexual orientation, religion, and more. She recalls a recent headline stat-

ing throngs of women left the workforce during the pandemic. “Leaders should wonder: Why is that so? What can you do to get them back?” We have all been changed by the pandemic. Arthur-Mensah prepares the next generation of leaders to manage our journey forward. THE 19 MEMBERS OF THE MUSICAL THEater class of 2024 at UC’s College-Conservatory of Music began freshman year as strangers in a virtual room. The experiences they hope to learn and share, unfortunately, are virus superspreader events—singing, dancing, stages, audiences. COVID protocols, intended to protect their lives, seem to threaten their dreams. If they’d been sociology majors, perhaps they would have known that things are not what they seem. Despite limitations, the students launched planning for the Spring 2021 Freshman Showcase, a major CCM event, with high goals. Michael Lee Jr. says he and his fellow students wanted to talk about racial injustice, violence against women, political division, and prejudice toward immigrants. “So many things were happening,” Lee recalls. “We all said, Let’s come together and present something that represents our world right now. And how we individually fit into it.” Students wrote monologues and chose musical numbers reflecting show themes: “Come Together” from the Beatles; “Stand Up,” a film tribute to abolitionist Harriet Tubman; “A Change Is Gonna Come,” a declaration from the ’60s; and the title song, “Wake Up,” their call to action. The heavy topics produced intense discussions, recalls freshman Eliza Levy, whose monologue described her childhood passion for reading about Black history. “This was us at our rawest, truest selves, pouring our hearts and souls out for people to see,” she says. “It was not always sunshine and butterflies. It was crying a lot of the time. I’ll never again be 18 years old, figuring out what I want to say to the world.” Showcase producer and director Vincent DeGeorge, an associate professor at UC, heard their commitment and dedicated himself to making it happen. Bumps emerged at various points. DeGeorge

proposed students record performance videos with their iPhones. “Everyone’s heads exploded,” he says. “I thought I’d lost them all.” Musical director Steve Goers struggled to figure out the audio. To increase sound quality, students recorded in the studio first and lip-synced during showcase performances. The cast decided to wear masks, both as a safety precaution and a statement of the times. The black cloths across mouths also made lip synching more feasible. Still, the university’s recording restrictions seemed impossible. One student at a time would sing for half an hour. The room was cleaned, then students had to wait four hours before starting the next session. Each student got one shot at the microphone. Recording alone took three months. Then Goers had to edit the tracks to create the effect of group performances. As he recounts the painstaking process with me on a Zoom call, team members shake their heads in disbelief. “You just literally gave me PTSD,” DeGeorge says. But somehow it worked, and the students now point out surprising opportunities amidst pandemic conditions. “We were brainstorming all the time, which really strengthened us as performers,” Gracie Parker says. And once CCM released the “Wake Up” video in June, they learned of the project’s impact on others outside of their team. Parker’s monologue related stories about high school bullying, and friends reached out. “They were like Gracie, I had no idea that happened to you, and Thank you so much for talking about this. I thought I was the only one that experienced this. It made theater and artistry a relatable experience.” DeGeorge describes the Freshman Showcase as a microcosm. “If we can work together in this project, as overwhelming as it’s been, we can also work together in other overwhelming situations,” he says. Looking back, what seemed like the greatest obstacles produced an environment for meaningful theater. For his part, Goers can’t forget the darker side of the pandemic journey at CCM. About that tedious, complicated audio recording process, he says, “We’ll never, ever, ever, ever, ever do that again.”

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BRUNCH IN BELLEVUE P. 110

D NE NAVAL CULINARY SPECIALIST Q&A P. 110

BAR FOOD IN NORTHSIDE P. 112

HOMEMAKERS’ HOLIDAY GUIDE P. 112

EIGHT IS ENOUGH Okto’s octopus mural on the wall at the back of the restaurant adds colorful ambiance to the dining experience.

PHOTOGRAPH BY JEREMY KRAMER

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DINING OUT

GREEK TO US

E+O brings coastal Mediterranean food downtown. — A K S H A Y A H U J A

T

HE DINING ROOM AT OKTO IS DIVIDED INTO TWO VERY DISTINCT SPACES. On the one side, there is what I would expect from an upscale Greek restaurant: a sun-drenched palette of white and blue with pale hanging light fixtures, elegantly chipped in the manner of ancient statues. On the other side, however, is a huge mural of an octopus, in bright colors and pronounced lines, almost in the manner of a Japanese print. The aesthetic shift felt so unusual to me that I asked Tony Castelli, the marketing director at Earth + Ocean Restaurant Group, about it. And it turns out there is a story behind it. A little over a year and a half ago, the group opened E+O New Asian in this very spot, to follow up its successful E+O Kitchen concept in Hyde Park. One week later, COVID hit and shut everything down. With no customers, the restaurant group decided to reevaluate what to do with the space. They asked over 2,000 local business owners and stakeholders what sort of cuisine they felt was missing in the city, and some of the most common answers were: Greek food, seafood options, and vegetarian fare. One day, sitting in the shuttered E+O New Asian, someone looked at the bright octopus mural splashed across the back of the restaurant. Things started to click: Okto is eight in Greek, just like the number of tentacles; two of E+O’s owners are Greek; and people want more seafood and vegetarian. So they decided to put it all together. This lively mash-up—from using the mural from the old restaurant to creating a highly approachable menu—is a telling symbol of E+O’s flexible approach to traditional food. In what other Greek restaurant would the best cocktail be a smoky, chile-laced paloma, normally associated with Mexico? Or would the 1 0 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1

FYI

Okto 645 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 632-9181, oktocincin nati.com Hours Dinner Mon–Thurs 4–10 pm and Fri & Sat 4–11 pm Prices $16 (saganaki)–$49 (whole grilled branzino) Credit Cards All major The Takeaway A pleasingly eclectic and approachable take on Greek food.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JEREMY KRAMER


OK TO A GO GO (From left) Executive Chef Wissam Baki; salmon carpaccio made with truffle feta cream, serrano chili, micro arugula, and rainbow radish; grilled lamb chop with Swiss chard, parsley, gremolata, and lemon potatoes; saganaki (fried Kefalograviera cheese and grilled bread).

dish of lamb chops come dressed with gremolata, which I have never seen on anything but Italian food? But E+O has always prided itself on its eclectic take on regional cuisine and they serve up something similarly fun and varied here. As much as I value authenticity in certain contexts, that pandemic moment clearly called for improvisation. If sticking to tradition means insisting on some ingredient from the other side of the world, by all means let’s do something nontraditional. During our meals at Okto, the list of specials was almost as long as the menu, a deliberate decision on part of Chef Wissam Baki. Supply chains, especially for seafood, are so disrupted that the chef doesn’t want to put something on the menu until he can be sure of consistent quality and availability. Until then, the dishes go on the list of specials. And these were some of the strongest dishes. The seafood saganaki came in a hot cast iron pan (that is what saganaki means), and had a richly multidimensional tomato sauce—tart, delicately spicy—full of mussels, shrimp, and clams, with just a bit of salty feta. Those looking for classic Greek food, though, will find plenty to satisfy them. For me, this was the can’t-miss part of the menu. The richly salty kefalograviera cheese in the flaming saganaki; the lamb kebabs, served ground, with the classic roasted tomato on the side; or the spanakopita, which had a lovely flaky crust, not too oily, and a perfectly seasoned balance of feta and spinach in the filling. Okto also has the best baklava I have ever had. Often it is honey-soaked, cloyingly sweet, and oily, but here they get everything just right. You can taste the cinnamon-y nuts, and the dollop of vanilla bean

gelato and handful of berries (almost certainly nontraditional) are the perfect counterpoint. Holding many of the savory favorites together is a first-rate tzatziki sauce, which was perfectly garlicky, not too sour, with the right freshness of cucumber and mint. (Okto is planning on bottling this and selling it, and it will totally be worth it.) This sauce is the star of the meze platter and makes dishes like the kebab sing. Unfortunately, in comparison, some of the other dips suffer. The htipiti, a roasted red pepper and feta sauce, is merely good, and the hummus is a bit bland. In both of these dips, the edges have been too smoothed out; the flavors are too middle register to make the necessary impression. I wanted some deep smokiness to come through in the htipiti instead of just sweetness, and the hummus badly needed more acidity. In a few of the weaker dishes at Okto, this touch of intensity is missing. In the lobster pasta, the pasta was nicely tender, and the dish beautifully presented, but the sauce was crying out for heat to wake it up, especially with the sweet lobster. Mostly, though, these little notes of intensity are there. I loved the citrus in the fava bean puree served beside the grilled octopus, along with the briny zing of fried capers. And the lamb chops were probably the star of our meal, with the kitchen infusing the Swiss chard with a rich smokiness, and serving a subtle mushroom sauce that was the perfect, earthy complement to the lighter notes of the gremolata. I’m not sure if a Greek person would recognize this dish as belonging to their cuisine, but I’m also not quite sure that they would care. Okto is young and fun. It may still be figuring out exactly what it wants to be, but at this particular moment, who isn’t? And its flexible approach to Greek cuisine means there is already plenty that is good, plus plenty of room to grow. D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 1 0 9


TABLESIDE WITH...

MATTHEW DELUCA

LUNCHBOX

THE MILFORD NATIVE SERVES as a culinary specialist aboard the USS Charleston, a combat ship. How did you get into cooking? I would watch my mom create meals from what seemed like random ingredients. I moved out when I was 18 and decided to try cooking for myself. After that, I fell in love. What’s it like cooking aboard a ship? Cooking onboard is much different than cooking for a few other people. Time management is a huge skill that is critical to getting meals out on time. How many people are you cooking for? How many times a day? While deployed, we were cooking for about 110-plus people and that’s four meals a day—breakfast, lunch, dinner, and midnight rations for those on watch.

Brunch Bunch MASTERING THE BREAKFAST, BRUNCH, AND LUNCH RESTAURANT CONCEPT HINGES ON three main details: Creating and consistently delivering a standout, made-from-scratch menu; committing to high-quality service; and packaging it in an inviting atmosphere that keeps diners coming back. It’s a model Jeremy Faeth mastered quickly at Cedar, a comfort-focused brunchery that opened in Covington’s MainStrasse neighborhood last summer to much success. And he has replicated it at Yuca, a Latin American–themed breakfast, brunch, and lunch spot Faeth opened this fall, just a quick car ride away along Bellevue’s Fairfield Avenue. Yuca has taken over The Fairfield’s former space, retaining much of the same modern, airy, and inviting café vibes with a neighborhood feel, but boasts a menu certainly worth a commute. In the mood for a hearty breakfast? Indulge in the Fat Zach, a heaping corn gordita packed to the brim with chicken, chorizo, and scrambled egg, served with avocado, pineapple pico, and sweet and spicy potatoes. Craving something lighter? We recommend the Peruvian shrimp ceviche, a packed-withflavor dish of fresh shrimp cured in citrus juice. There’s a full drink Yuca, 700 Fairfield Ave., Bellevue, menu ranging from coffee to Bloody Marys—or a selection of mar(859) 360-0110, garitas and palomas if you’re looking to stick around. — K E V I N S C H U L T Z yucabycedar.com 1 1 0 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1

How do you make food special for the holiday season, especially Christmas? Use any special recipes? Thanksgiving and Christmas are the two holidays that we can pick from a menu and choose which food items we want for the meal. We are always encouraged to use recipes from home such as green bean casserole, candied yams, etc. The holiday season is the time where we like to throw in our own personal “homestyle” cooking to make everyone feel at home. Are there any Cincinnati foods/ brands you really miss? I miss a lot of food, especially Skyline Chili. Another one I miss is Graeter’s. It’s the only place that sells my favorite flavor, black raspberry chip.

–AIESHA D.

LITTLE

Read a longer conversation with Matthew at cincinnatimagazine.com

PH OTO G R A PH BY L A N C E A D K IN S / ILLUSTR ATIO N BY C H R I S DA N G E R


SERVE UP A FRESHTIVE FEAST


BAR BITES

Street Life

The only corner pub you need. ULOW STREET INVITES GUESTS TO COME IN and sit a spell. Ample bar seating and simple wooden tables fill the front room, and a wheelchairaccessible ramp leads down the hall to a seating area with televisions broadcasting the latest game. An eclectic menu aims to satiate as many palates as possible, but the Rigatoni Bolognese stands out as particularly ambitious. The light white wine sauce showcases flavorful beef with light notes of tomato, with the pasta balancing out textures. However, the mixed greens salad (arugula, red apple, golden raisin, pecan, cheddar, honey-champagne vinaigrette) may be the best thing on the menu. The crunch of the apples and the blend of sweet and savory toppings tossed in tangy vinaigrette are a dream. A mix of bottled and draft beers keep things interesting during a game day get-together, but the establishment’s cocktails are their own event. Nothing ends an evening like the sweet and sour notes of The Last Word (dry gin, green chartreuse, maraschino liquor, lime juice). Visit on Tuesdays for the “Burger and Draft” special or start your day very late with the Breakfast Sandwich (fried egg, bacon, and pimento cheese). It’s whatever time you want it to be on Gulow Street.

G

—M. LEIGH HOOD Gulow Street, 1614 Hoffner St., Northside, (513) 873-4005, gulowstreet.com

FIELD NOTES

HOME FOR HOLIDAYS This Over-theRhine bar offers tricks of the entertaining trade. .— A I E S H A D . L I T T L E

This winter, get back into the swing of having folks over for the holidays with HomeMakers Bar’s Guide to Entertaining. The publication is a nod to the Calvert Party Encyclopedia: Your Complete Guide to Home Entertaining books produced in the 1960s, containing cocktail and dip recipes and tips and tricks for entertaining at home. “When you step into HomeMakers, we want you to feel just as welcomed as when you’re with your closest friends and we always want to celebrate, even when you’re not with us,” says owner Julia Petiprin. “This is a way to bring HomeMakers home and for us to be a part of the celebrations from afar.” A portion of the proceeds from each sale goes to Project Connect, a Cincinnati Public Schools program HomeMakers Bar whose main goal is to help remove educational barriers for children and youth 39 E. 13th St., Over-the-Rhine, experiencing homelessness. Digital ($9.99) and print ($18.99) versions of the (513) 394-7559 guide are available at homemakersbar.com/hgte21.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY LANCE ADKINS


TO RC H OF E XCEL L EN C E 3 0 TH A N N U A L N U R S I N G A W A R D S

1RPLQDWH DQ 2XWVWDQGLQJ 1XUVH That nurse who’s gone out of his/her/their way to provide exceptional care. That nurse who made you or a loved one feel comfortable during a scary time. That nurse who never let any obstacle stop her/him/them when doing what was right. We all know that nurse. For nearly three decades, the Torch of Excellence Nursing Awards, formerly the Florence Nightingale Awards for Nursing Excellence, have brought the Greater Cincinnati community together to recognize nursing talent. ΖI \RX NQRZ D QXUVH ZKR H[HPSOLȴHV H[FHOOHQFH LQ FDUH DQG FRPSDVVLRQ QRPLQDWH KHU KLP WKHP QRZ DW QXUVLQJ XF HGX WRUFK RI H[FHOOHQFH

1RPLQDWLRQ 3HULRG 1RY WR 'HF Nominees must be licensed as a registered nurse and be employed in the Greater Cincinnati area. For additional information on nominations, please contact gage.woolley@uc.edu.

Selection is not based on the number of nominations received; however, all nomination forms submitted for each nurse will be considered.

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WHERE TO EAT NOW

AMERICAN BARBECUE CAJUN/CARIBBEAN CHINESE ECLECTIC FRENCH INDIAN ITALIAN JAPANESE KOREAN MEDITERRANEAN MEXICAN STEAKS THAI

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DINING GUIDE CINCINNATI MAGAZINE’S

dining guide is compiled by our editors as a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a restaurant listing. The editors may add or delete restaurants based on their judgment. Because of space limitations, all

of the guide’s restaurants may not be included. Many restaurants have changing seasonal menus; dishes listed here are examples of the type of cuisine available and may not be on the menu when you visit. To update listings, e-mail: cmletters@cincinnati magazine.com

GOOSE & ELDER

AMERICAN BRONTË BISTRO You might think this is a lunch-only spot where you can nosh on a chicken salad sandwich after browsing next door at Joseph-Beth Booksellers. But this Norwood eatery feels welcoming after work, too. The dinner menu features entrées beyond the rotating soup and quiche roster that’s popular at noon. Fried chicken? Check. Quesadillas and other starters? Yep. An assortment of burgers? Present, including turkey and veggie versions. Casual food rules the day but the surprise is Brontë Bistro’s lineup of adult beverages, which elevates the place above a basic bookstore coffeeshop. The regular drinks menu includes such mainstays as Hemingway’s Daiquiri, a tribute to the author who drank them (often to excess). 2692 Madison Rd., Norwood, (513) 396-8970, josephbeth. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC. $

WINE DOWN

Pleasantry co-owner Daniel Souder plans to open a retail wine shop in Walnut Hills this winter. Iris Read will focus exclusively on natural wine, which is made from grapes grown without pesticides or herbicides.

COPPIN’S With wine on tap and an extensive local beer list, Coppin’s is an ideal place to meet for drinks. In addition to plenty of Kentucky bourbon, much of the produce, meat, and cheese comes from local growers and producers. House-cured meat and cheese from Kenny’s Farmhouse and cheese from Urban Stead populate the “Artisan Cheese and Charcuterie Board,” which dresses up the main attractions with honey, dijon mustard, house pickles, and Sixteen Bricks grilled sourdough. The mussels—made with seasonally rotating sauces and chorizo from Napoleon Ridge Farms in Gallatin County—were served with a peppery tomato sauce, perfect for sopping up with bread. The seven-ounce Sakura Farms Wagyu rib eye with wild mushrooms, roasted parsnip, and beef jus is a must have. Or try the striped bass with grape farro roasted broccolini and mussel cream sauce. 638 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 9056600, hotelcovington.com/dining/coppins. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

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The third restaurant from chef Jose Salazar, Goose & Elder is a more everyday kind of joint compared to his others. The prices are lower, and most of the dishes, from burgers to grits, are familiar. Salazar’s menus have always hinted that the chef had a fondness for, well, junk food. But junk food is only junk if it is made thoughtlessly. Everything here is made with little twists, like the cumin-spiced potato chips and delicate ribbons of housemade cucumber pickles with a sweet rice wine vinegar. Even the fries, crinkle cut and served with “goose sauce,” a mildly spiced mayonnaise, are wonderfully addictive. The restaurant demonstrates that what we now consider “fast food” can be awfully good if someone makes it the old-fashioned, slow way. 1800 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 5798400, gooseandelder.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues–Sun, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

IVORY HOUSE The menu here generally doesn’t reinvent dishes or introduce outlandish flavors, but simply pays attention to enough little things to make the results unusually good. The Wagyu Frisco is basically a cheeseburger, but the exceptional tomme from Urban Stead gives it that extra something. The cocktails are things you’ve probably seen before, but everything—from the bourbon rhubarb sour to the Queen City’s Bees Knees—had an extra dash of liveliness from a house-made element, like a rhubarb honey syrup or the raspberry shrub. Even when an ingredient seems out of left field, like the burnt grapefruit hot sauce on the pork belly and tenderloin, it never tastes as unusual as it sounds. Tthe hot sauce is just a hint of sweet citrusy spice that melts into the grits—a softly intriguing element rather than a slap in the face. Ivory House also has an excellent brunch. 2998 Harrison Ave., Westwood, (513) 3890175, ivoryhousecincy.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$$

QUATMAN CAFÉ The quintessential neighborhood dive, Quatman’s sits in the shadow of the Our Lady of the Holy Spirit Center, serving up a classic bar burger. Look elsewhere if you like your burger with exotic toppings: This half-pound of grilled beef is served with lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickle. Sometimes

KEY: No checks unless specified. AE American Express, DC Diners Club DS Discover, MC MasterCard, V Visa MCC Major credit cards: AE, MC, V $ = Under $15 $$$ = Up to $49 $$ = Up to $30 $$$$ = $50 and up Top 10

= Named a Best Restaurant March 2020.

cheese. The no-frills theme is straightforward and appealing. A menu of standard sandwich fare and smooth mock turtle soup; beer on tap or soda in cans (no wine or liquor); and checkered tablecloths, serving baskets, and plenty of kitsch is served daily. Peppered with regulars, families, political discussions, and the occasional fool, Quatman’s is far from fancy. But it is fun, fast, and delicious. 2434 Quatman Ave., Norwood, (513) 731-4370, quatmancafe.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MC, V. $

THE SCHOOLHOUSE RESTAURANT The daily menu of familiar Midwestern comfort fare is written in letter-perfect cursive on the original chalkboard. Once you order from a woman who bears an uncanny resemblance to your high school lunch lady, the elevated lazy Susan in the center of the table begins to fill up with individual bowls and baskets of corn bread, slaw, salad, mashed potatoes, chicken gravy, and vegetables. The deal here is quantity. More mashed potatoes with your fried chicken? More corn bread with your baked ham? You don’t even have to raise your hand. 8031 Glendale-Milford Rd., Camp Dennison, (513) 831-5753, theschoolhousecincinnati.com. Lunch Thurs & Fri, dinner Thurs–Sun. MCC, DS. $

TANO BISTRO Gaetano Williams’s Loveland bistro is comfortable, with reasonably priced food and amenable service. The menu is tidy—25 or so dishes divided between appetizers, salads, and entrées, plus two or three specials—its flavor profile partially influenced by a childhood growing up in a third generation Italian family. Most of Tano Bistro’s main courses lean toward the comfortable side of American. For instance, Williams serves a stuffed salmon and potato-crusted chicken. The simple roast chicken is also worth a trip to Loveland, sweetly moist beneath its crisp bronze skin. 204 W. Loveland Ave., Loveland, (513) 6838266, foodbytano.com. Lunch and dinner Mon– Fri, brunch and dinner Sat & Sun. MCC. $$$

TELA BAR + KITCHEN Classically conceived but casually executed comfort food, including mini-Monte Cristo sandwiches I C O N B Y I LYA B O L O T O V / S T O C K . A D O B E . C O M


with tangy house-made pimento cheese stuffed into sourdough bread and fried crisp, mac and cheese topped with a Mr. Pibb–braised pulled short rib, and steak and potatoes. Servers are slightly scattered, yet enthusiastic and friendly, with a good grasp of the beverage program. 1212 Springfield Pke., Wyoming, (513) 821-8352, telabarandkitchen.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $$

THE WILDFLOWER CAFÉ

Wildflower Café is not the sort of place that tries to wow anyone with feats of inventiveness. Its formula is simple but satisfying: lots of mostly local meat and produce, a menu that continuously changes with available ingredients, a nice selection of wine and beer, and well-made, homey food. The small, focused menu has a classic American quality (salads, steaks, burgers) with enough surprises to keep things interesting. Many of the dishes are designed with open spaces to be filled with whatever is available in the kitchen that day, an advantage of an unfussy style. You don’t go to Wildflower expecting a certain kind of perfection; you accept that your favorite dish from last time might be made differently tonight, or no longer available. Like the farmhouse that Wildflower occupies, the imperfections are part of the charm. 207 E. Main St., Mason, (513) 492-7514, wildflowergourmetcafe.com. Lunch and dinner Tues– Sat. MCC. $$$

Art and Science want to Play.

Exhibit open through April 24, 2022 cincymuseum.org/pixar

BARBECUE ELI’S BBQ

Elias Leisring started building his pulled pork reputation under canopies at Findlay Market and Fountain Square in 2011. Leisring’s proper little ’cue shack along the river serves up ribs that are speaking-in-tongues good, some of the zazziest jalapeño cheese grits north of the Mason-Dixon line, and browned mashed potatoes that would make any short order cook diner-proud. The small no-frills restaurant—packed cheek-by-jowl most nights—feels like it’s been there a lifetime, with customers dropping vinyl on the turntable, dogs romping in the side yard, and picnic tables crowded with diners. The hooch is bring-your-own, and the barbecue is bona fide. 3313 Riverside Dr., East End, (513) 533-1957, elisbarbeque.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

WALT’S HITCHING POST

A Northern Kentucky institution returns. Roughly 750 pounds of ribs per week are pit-fired in a small building in front of the restaurant, with a smaller dedicated smoker out back for brisket and chicken. Walt’s ribs begin with several hours in the smokehouse and then are quick-seared at the time of service. This hybrid method takes advantage of the leaner nature of the baby-back ribs they prefer to use. Each rib had a just-right tooth to it where soft flesh peeled away from the bone. One hidden treasure: Walt’s house-made tomato and garlic dressing. Slightly thicker than a vinaigrette yet unwilling to overwhelm a plate of greens, the two key elements play well together. 3300 Madison Pke., Ft. Wright, (859) 360-2222, waltshitchingpost.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$

CAJUN/ CARIBBEAN BREWRIVER CREOLE

More than 800 miles from New Orleans, this may be as close as you can get to the real deal here in your own backyard. The menu fully leans into Chef Michael Shields’s penchant for cuisine from the Crescent City. His six years of training under NOLA’s own Emeril Lagasse comes through in a scratch kitchen menu that spans a range of the city’s classics. The enormous PHOTOGRAPH BY TK FREELANCER

Produced by

The Science Behind Pixar was developed by the Museum of Science, Boston in collaboration with Pixar Animation Studios. © Disney/Pixar. All Rights Reserved. Used Under Authorization.

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PROMOTION

15 MINUTES

DOWNTOWN LIVING TOUR

CINCINNATI MAGAZINE WELCOMED SEVERAL HUNDRED GUESTS FOR THE DOWNTOWN LIVING TOUR TO EXPLORE AND INDULGE IN ALL THAT LIVING DOWNTOWN HAS TO OFFER. Cincinnati Magazine readers and local residents toured several of the most luxurious apartments located in the core of our city. Guests made their way through town on golf carts, the Cincinnati Bell Connector, and on foot as they took in the city and all it has to offer as a lifestyle. THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS: Saint Xavier Park, Downtown Cincinnati Inc., Kroger, Jaume Serra Cristalino, FIJI water, illy, Covenant First Presbyterian Church, and Neutrogena.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY HARTONG DIGITAL MEDIA


PROMOTION

15 MINUTES

SLICE NIGHT

CINCINNATI MAGAZINE ENJOYED A PERFECT EVENING OF PIZZA, FALL WEATHER, AND FUND-RAISING FOR THE UNIVERSITY OF CINCINNATI CANCER CENTER. Cincinnati Magazine gathered readers and local pizza aficionados at Yeatman’s Cove to sample a slew of slices and support a worthy cause. One bite at a time, guests enjoyed tastes of New York, Detroit, Chicago, and of course Cincinnati style pies from local favorites such as N.Y.P.D. Pizza, LaRosa’s, Taglio, and many more. All ticket and beverage sales 100 percent supported patient care and care teams at the UC Cancer Center. THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS: Bread & Butter Wines, Chinet, DeLallo, High Grain Brewing Co., Jim Beam, Pacific Seafood, Fruit-tella/Perfetti Van Melle, Performance Food Service, TRUFF, Western & Southern Financial Group. PHOTOGRAPHS BY HARTONG DIGITAL MEDIA


WHERE TO EAT NOW

shrimp and oyster po’ boys—the former protein fried in a light and crispy beer batter and the latter in a hearty cornmeal breading—are served on fluffy French bread loaves and dressed with lightly spicy rémoulades. The jambalaya packs all the heat of a late summer day in the French Quarter without masking a hint of its satisfying flavors. Paired with a Sazerac and nightly live jazz, you may just feel tempted to start a second line.

between a honey-vinegar brine to dry the skin, a marinade of star anise, bean paste, and soy within the re-sealed cavity, and the crispy convection oven finish. Dolsot bibimbap had plenty of crispy rice at the bottom of the stone bowl, and the accompanying banchan were soothing yet flavorful, especially the strips of lightly pickled cucumber. Even dishes like a Malaysian goat stew resonated with rich, original flavors.

4632 Eastern Ave., Linwood, (513) 861-2484, brewrivercreolekitchen.com. Dinner Tues–Sun, brunch & lunch Fri–Sun. MCC. $

8300 Market Place Lane, Montgomery, (513) 898-1833, thepacific.kitchen. Lunch and dinner seven days; dim sum Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

SWAMPWATER GRILL

RAYMOND’S HONG KONG CAFÉ

At first blush, this place is a dive where homesick Cajuns can find a good pile of jambalaya. But thoughtful details like draft Abita Root Beer and char-grilled Gulf Coast oysters on the half shell signal its ambition. Bayou standards like jambalaya, gumbo, and fried seafood also make an appearance. But the extensive menu also features amped up pub-style items for those who may be squeamish about crawfish tails (which can be added to just about anything on the menu). You’ll also find a roundup of oyster, shrimp, and catfish Po’Boys, as well as a selection of hardwood-smoked meats. 3742 Kellogg Ave., East End, (513) 834-7067, swampwatergrill.com. Lunch and dinner Wed– Sun, brunch Fri–Sun. MCC. $$

KNOTTY PINE ON THE BAYOU

CHEAP SEATS

FinanceBuzz surveyed more than 1,500 NFL fans about how much they spend at games and Bengals fans are No. 3 on the cheap list. According to the results, only Carolina Panthers and New York Giants fans spend less on beer, food, and merch.

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The Pine serves some of the best Louisiana homestyle food you’ll find this far north of New Orleans. Taste the fried catfish filets with their peppery crust, or the garlic sauteed shrimp with smoky greens on the side, and you’ll understand why it’s called soul food. Between March and June, it’s crawfish season. Get them boiled and heaped high on a platter or in a superb crawfish etouffee. But the rockin’ gumbo—a thick, murky brew of andouille sausage, chicken, and vegetables—serves the best roundhouse punch all year round. As soon as you inhale the bouquet and take that first bite, you realize why Cajun style food is considered a high art form and a serious pleasure. And you’ll start planning your return trip. 6302 Licking Pke., Cold Spring, (859) 7812200, letseat.at/KnottyPine. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

It has all the elements of your typical neighborhood Chinese restaurant: Strip mall location. General Tso and kung pao chicken. Fortune cookies accompanying the bill. The dragon decoration. But it is the nontraditional aspects of Raymond’s Hong Kong Café that allow it to stand apart. The menu goes beyond standard Chinese fare with dishes that range from Vietnamese (beef noodle soup) to American (crispy Cornish hen). The Portuguese-style baked chicken references Western European influences on Chinese cuisine with an assemblage of fried rice, peppers, carrots, broccoli, zucchini, and squash all simmering together in a creamy bath of yellow curry sauce. Deciding what to order is a challenge, but at least you won’t be disappointed. 11051 Clay Dr., Walton, (859) 485-2828. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

UNCLE YIP’S Long before sushi somehow un-disgusted itself to the Western World, China had houses of dim sum. Uncle Yip’s valiantly upholds that tradition in Evendale. This is a traditional dim sum house with all manner of exotic dumplings, including shark fin or beef tripe with ginger and onion. As for the seafood part of the restaurant’s full name, Uncle Yip has most everything the sea has to offer, from lobster to mussels. The menu has more than 260 items, so you’ll find a range of favorites, from moo goo gai pan to rock salt frog legs. 10736 Reading Rd., Evendale, (513) 733-8484, uncleyips.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, discount for cash. $$

ECLECTIC

CHINESE CHINESE IMPERIAL INN The chilies-on-steroids cooking here will have you mopping beads of garlic-laced sweat from your brow. The musky, firecracker-red Mongolian chicken stabilizes somewhere just before nirvana exhaustion, and aggressively pungent shredded pork with dried bean curd leaves your eyes gloriously glistening from its spicy hot scarlet oil. Even an ice cold beer practically evaporates on your tongue. Do not fear: not all the dishes are incendiary. Try the seafood—lobster, Manila clams, Dungeness and blue crabs, whelk, and oysters—prepared with tamer garlicky black bean sauce, or ginger and green onions. The Cantonese wonton soup, nearly as mild as your morning bowl of oatmeal, is as memorable as the feverish stuff. Sliced pork and shrimp are pushed into the steaming bowl of noodles and greens just before serving. Think comforting, grandmotherly tenderness. 11042 Reading Rd., Sharonville, (513) 5636888, chineseimperialinn.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MC, V, DS. $

THE PACIFIC KITCHEN The monster of a menu can be dizzying. Ease in with some top-notch Korean Fried Chicken. These slightly bubbly, shatter-crisp wings are painted with a thin gochujang pepper sauce (a foil to the fat). It takes 24 hours to prep the Cantonese duck,

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CHÉ This Walnut Street spot draws on authentic Argentine recipes, including the empanadas. Choose from more than a dozen different crispy, perfectly cinched dough pockets, with fillings ranging from traditional (a mixture of cumin-spiced beef, egg, and olives) to experimental (mushrooms, feta, green onion, and mozzarella). There are also six different dipping sauces to choose from, but you need not stray from the house chimichurri. It complements practically every item on the menu, but particularly the grilled meats, another Argentinian staple. Marinated beef skewers and sausages are cooked on an open-flame grill, imparting welcome bits of bitter char to the juicy meat. 1342 Walnut St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 3458838, checincinnati.com. Lunch Tues–Sun , dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

THE GOVERNOR This Milford restaurant playfully elevates diner classics. Breakfast is available all day so if you’re looking to greet the morning with decadence, try the ricotta toast, a thick slab of brioche toast smothered in ricotta and fresh, seasonal jams. Sandwiches also get an inventive twist here. The “Governor Tso’s chicken”—a crispy fried chicken breast glazed with a General Tso’s–inspired sauce, topped with coleslaw and served on a toasted sesame seed bun—is a gigantic, happy

mess of a sandwich, but the sweet glaze faintly evokes the namesake “General” while letting the sublimely fried chicken lead the charge. Order a side of crinkle cut fries and ask for the housemade Maple Thousand Island dipping sauce. (You’ll thank us later.) 231 Main St., Milford, (513) 239-8298, governordiner.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. Brunch and lunch Sun. MCC. $

THE LITTLEFIELD Inside a modest 1,500 square-foot space on Spring Grove, just south of Hamilton Avenue, at least 70-odd bourbons behind the bar drive this little restaurant’s philosophy. The menu is meant to be limited, the better to support and celebrate the bottled flavors up front. There are surprises: a faint hint of curry powder deepens the moody cauliflower fritters; skewered golf-balls of mild, peppery ground lamb get a faint crust from the final sear. You’ll also want to order the smoked pork katsu. Panko crusted cutlets of pork, topped with tonkatsu sauce, served with sesame ginger slaw and kewpie mayo. The signature chicken and corn chowder is exactly what you need on a cold winter’s day. 3934 Spring Grove Ave., Northside, (513) 3867570, littlefieldns.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days, brunch Sun. V, MC. $

MASHROOTS After serving mofongo at Findlay Market for nearly four years, Mashroots opened its first brick-and-mortar spot in College Hill this year. For the uninitiated, mofongo is a traditional Puerto Rican dish of mashed fried plantains with garlic and olive oil, typically served with protein and sauce. Here, you can get plantain, yuca, or sweet potato as your root and a protein, like skirt steak or pulled chicken. Top it off with veggies (pinkslaw, vinagrete, citruscarrot) and a sauce (pink mayo, anyone?), and wash it all down with refreshing cocktails made with rum and harderto-find spirits. 5903 Hamilton Ave., College Hill, (513) 6204126, mashroots.com. Lunch and dinner TuesSat, Lunchand dinner Sun. MCC. $

MELT REVIVAL In this Northside sandwich joint, the restaurant’s name pretty much dictates what you should get. Diners have their choice of sandwiches, including the vegetarian cheesesteak—seitan (a meat substitute) topped with roasted onions, peppers, and provolone—and the J.L.R. Burger, a black bean or veggie patty served with cheese, tomato, lettuce and housemade vegan mayo. For those who require meat in their meals, try the verde chicken melt: juicy pieces of chicken intermingle with pesto, zucchini, and provolone. Not sure you’ll want a whole sandwich? Try one of the halvesies, a half-salad, half-soup selection popular with the lunch crowd. 4100 Hamilton Ave., Northside, (513) 8188951, meltrevival.com. MCC, DS. $

NICHOLSON’S To remind local diners that they were here before those young dog-toting punks with their exposed brick and crafty ales in Over-the-Rhine, Nicholson’s branded themselves Cincinnati’s “first and finest gastropub,” and revamped the menu to include plenty of snacks and small plates for grazing, and not-quite-brawny, straightforward sandwiches and main dishes. Try the oatmeal crusted trout, bowl of cock-a-leekie soup, or check out the cranberry-apple or Scottish BBQ style burgers or the turkey burger with apple chutney. And the bar’s clubby intimacy makes it easy to belly up and enjoy their impressive collection of single malts or a Scottish stout. 625 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 564-9111, nicholsonspub.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$ ICON BY VIKIVECTOR / STOCK.ADOBE.COM


THE QUARTER BISTRO The Quarter Bistro has multiple personalities: one part clubby neighborhood joint, one part dinner and a movie with a dash of lusty romance. The Bistro Burger, a halfpound of black Angus beef, is seasoned but not overly so, with a sturdy-but-not-too-chewy bun. The 18-hour short ribs are the star, and reason enough to skip the movie next door. Braised into a flavor bomb of meat candy, it’s served with papardelle pasta, roasted vegetables, and onion straws. With the no-lip service, The Quarter Bistro could be well on the way to making middle age look sexy. 6904 Wooster Pke., Mariemont, (513) 271-5400, qbcincy.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

SALAZAR A freewheeling tour through Korean, Moroccan, Italian, and French flavors—and that’s just on one iteration of the ever-evolving menu. Salazar turns out fresh, wellbalanced dishes dotted with seasonal surprises: the cauliflower steak special (a Moroccan spiced, seared wedge of the cruciferous vegetable complemented by a strong hit of lemon), the chicken liver mousse (so good it deserves its own trophy), and the succulent chicken Milanese (with its musky, sweet-and-sour notes of ground cherry). With its bustling bar and cheek-by-jowl tables, Salazar hums with energy at every meal. 1401 Republic St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 621-7000, salazarcincinnati.com. Lunch Thurs–Fri, dinner Mon– Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

THE STANDARD Owners Paul Weckman and Emily Wolff offer a pared down menu of six small plates (if you include the fries) and five mains. It’s simple but satisfying, with an interesting Pan-Asian street food vibe. The two kinds of satay (particularly the lemongrass chicken) and the fried honey sriracha tenders, with an excellent housemade bread-and-butter pickle, are the highlights. In terms of drinks, try the Hot Rod, which has the flavor of kimchi captured in a drink. There is a gochujang (salty, fermented Korean chile paste) simple syrup and a rim of Korean pepper—and the result is wonderful and unique. 434 Main St., Covington, (859) 360-0731, facebook. com/thestandardcov. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $

THE SUMMIT This “laboratory restaurant” staffed by Midwest Culinary Institute students features a limited but eclectic menu. Soft shell crab goes Latin with black beans, avocado, lime, and chiles. Spanish mackerel is given a Mediterranean twist with yogurt, cucumbers, pickled red onion, and chickpeas. A more traditional pasta dish of hand cut pappardelle with prosciutto, peas, and Parmesan makes an appearance alongside a Kurabota (the pork equivalent of Kobe beef) “hot dog.” Some dishes work better than others: There is redemption in a rustic combination of morels with cream, shallots, and tangy, smoky Idiazábal sheep’s milk cheese. The complex flavor of earth, wood, and char makes this a classic dish for enjoying, not for analyzing. That’s exactly what culinary students should be striving for. 3520 Central Parkway, Clifton, (513) 569-4980, midwestculinary.com. Dinner Thurs–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

20 BRIX Paul Barraco mixes Mediterranean influences with homespun choices, and he comes up with some marvelous food. Lamb meatballs with melted onions and romesco sauce are sweet and peppery, and their simplicity partners well with a lush Zinfandel. And his chicken and waffles could inspire you to regularly take a solo seat at the bar. The excellent wine list, arranged by flavor profiles within the varietals, features dozens of varieties by the glass in five-ounce or two-ounce pours, which makes it easy to try several. 101 Main St., Milford, (513) 831-2749, 20brix.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS, DC. $$

TERANGA West African cuisine consists of mostly simple, homestyle dishes of stews and grilled lamb with just enough of the exotic to offer a glimpse of another culture. Be prepared for a few stimulating sights and flavors that warm from within. An entire grilled tilapia—head and D E CAEUM GB U ES RT 2 0 12 31 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 1 2 1


LE BAR A BOEUF WHERE TO EAT NOW all—in a peppery citrus marinade and served on plantains with a side of Dijon-coated cooked onions is interesting enough to pique foodie interest without overwhelming the moderate eater. Stews of lamb or chicken with vegetables and rice are a milder bet, and Morrocan-style couscous with vegetables and mustard sauce accompanies most items. The dining room atmosphere is extremely modest with most of the action coming from the constant stream of carryout orders. 8438 Vine St., Hartwell, (513) 821-1300, terangacinci. com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

Jean-Robert de Cavel’s upscale alterna-burger-shack features bifteck haché, ground beef patties that are a mainstay of French family dinners, according to de Cavel. His “Les Ground Meat” is available in beef, Wagyu beef, bison, lamb, and fish (a blend of albacore tuna and salmon). Portions are eight ounces, taller than a typical burger, and seared on the kitchen’s iron griddle. It’s easy to turn many of the generously portioned appetizers into dinner. Pair the open-faced beef tongue “French Dip” sandwich with a spinach salad and you’ll have one of the best choices in the house. Or go for mac-and-cheese. The lobster mac always sounds lush, but do consider the humble beef cheek version, enlivened by a touch of truffle oil, instead. 2200 Victory Pkwy., East Walnut Hills, (513) 751-2333, barboeuf.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

FRENCH CHEZ RENÉE FRENCH BISTROT

Based on American stereotypes of French food—that it’s elaborate, elitist, and expensive—one might expect Chez Renee to fall on the chichi side. Instead, it’s elegant in an everyday way, operating on the principle that it is better to excel at simplicity than to badly execute something complicated. The formula is not complex: Simple ingredients, generally fresh and from nearby, prepared without much fuss. Asparagus is beautifully roasted and perfectly salted, and the quiche Lorraine (yes, the old standby) has a nice, firm texture, and a fine balance of bacon, mushrooms, and oignons (to quote the menu, which is a charming hodgepodge of French and English). This is solid, tasty food, both approachable and well executed. It’s well on its way to becoming, as a good bistrot should be, a neighborhood institution. 233 Main St., Milford, (513) 428-0454, chezreneefrenchbistrot.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

INDIAN

BOMBAY BRAZIER

Indian food in America is hard to judge, because whether coming from the kitchen of a takeout joint or from a nicer establishment, the food will rarely taste all that different. It will generally be some twist on Punjabi cuisine. Bombay Brazier does it just right. Chef Rip Sidhu could serve his dal tadka in India, along with several other extraordinary dishes, and still do a roaring business—and this is not something that can be said of most Indian establishments in America. Try the pappadi chaat, a common Indian street food rarely found on American menus, and you will see what sets this place apart. They do everything the way it is supposed to be done, from the dusting of kala namak (a pungent black rock salt) on the fried crisps to the mixture of tamarind and mint chutneys on the chopped onion, tomatoes, and chickpeas—having this dish properly made is balm to the soul of a homesick immigrant, and fresh treasure for any American lover of this cuisine. 12140 Royal Point Dr., Mason, (513) 794-0000, bombaybraziercincy.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$$

AMMA’S KITCHEN

Muthu “Kumar” Muthiah serves traditional southern Indian and Indo-Chinese vegetarian cuisine, but with a sizable Orthodox Jewish community nearby, Muthia saw an opportunity: If he was going to cook vegetarian, why not also make it kosher? Muthiah prepares every item—from the addictively crunchy gobhi Manchurian, a spicy Chinese cauliflower dish, to the lemon pickle, tamarind, and mint sauces—entirely from scratch under the careful eye of Rabbi Michoel Stern. Always 80 percent vegan, the daily lunch buffet is 100 percent animal-product-free on Wednesdays. Tuck into a warm and savory channa masala (spiced chickpeas) or malai kofta (vegetable dumplings in tomato sauce) from the curry menu. Or tear into a crispy, two-foot diameter dosa (chickpea flour crepe) stuffed with spiced onions and potatoes. 7633 Reading Rd., Roselawn, (513) 821-2021, ammaskitchen.com. Lunch buffet seven days (all-vegan on Wed), dinner seven days. MC, V, DS. $

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BRIJ MOHAN

Order at the counter the way you might at a fast food joint, except the shakes come in mango and there’s no super-sizing your mint lassi. The saag, full of cream in most northern Indian restaurants, is as intensely flavored as collard greens in the Deep South—real Punjabi soul food. Tarka dal is spectacular here, the black lentils smoky from charred tomatoes and onions, and the pani puri, hollow fried shells into which you spoon a peppery cold broth, burst with tart cool crunch. Follow the spice with soothing ras malai, freshly made cheese simmered in thick almond-flavored milk, cooled and sprinkled with crushed pistachios. 11259 Reading Rd., Sharonville, (513) 769-4549, brijmohancincinnati.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DC. $


I TA L I A N A TAVOLA

In 2011, Jared Wayne opened A Tavola Pizza with two friends just as OTR was blowing up. A Ferrara pizza oven was ordered from Italy; Wayne, a skilled woodworker, built custom tables; and the menu was fleshed in with trendy crowdpleasers like charcuterie and craft cocktails. Fast-forward a decade. The OTR outpost is closed but the second location is still going strong in the ’burbs: A Tavola Madeira capitalizes on the menu from the Vine Street location, including the fresh and zesty asparagus, artichoke, and feta pizza on a Neapolitan crust; gooey mozzarella-filled arancini, or risotto fritters; and the unequaled Blue Oven English muffin eggplant sliders. Wash down your small plates with a glass of crisp and grassy Sannio falanghina or an ice-cold Peroni lager. Not ones to rest on their laurels, they also fire up a third Italian import—an Italforni Bull Oven—for their take on Roman-style pies (with a thinner, crispier crust). They’re definitely going to need a bigger parking lot.

7022 Miami Ave., Madeira, (513) 272-0192, atavolapizza.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

NICOLA’S

Chef/Restaurateur Cristian Pietoso carries on the legacy of his father, Nicola, as the elder Pietoso’s Over-the-Rhine eatery celebrates 25 years in business. Nicola’s has entered a new era of exuberant creativity under the leadership of chef Jack Hemmer. You can still get the old Italian classics, and they’ll be as good as ever, but the rest of the menu has blossomed into a freewheeling tour of modern American cuisine. Any establishment paying this level of attention to detail—from the candied slice of blood orange on the mascarpone cheesecake to the staff’s wine knowledge—is going to put out special meals. Rarely have humble insalate been so intricately Top 10

delicious, between the perfectly nested ribbons of beets in the pickled beet salad or the balance of bitterness, funkiness, and creaminess in the endive and Gorgonzola salad. Order an old favorite, by all means, but make sure you try something new, too.

1420 Sycamore St., Pendleton, (513) 721-6200, nicolasotr.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC, DS. $$$

PEPP & DOLORES

As with all of Thunderdome’s restaurants, you get a sense that they want to deliver a meal that satisfies many different kinds of people. The prices are reasonable, with pasta entrées about $15. The dishes are familiar in their flavors, but everything feels balanced and modulated and gradually perfected. There is lovely variety: the limone pasta is zippy with lemon and chili flakes, and just the right mixture of tart and creamy; the deep meaty flavors on the mushroom toast are balanced with a nice acidity; and the heat in dishes like the eggplant involtini is just enough to wake up the sauce without overwhelming the flavor. The menu has a wealth of excellent vegetarian and pasta-alternative options. 1501 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 419-1820, peppanddolores.com. Lunch Sat & Sun, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

PRIMAVISTA

Besides offering the old world flavors of Italy, Primavista also serves up a specialty no other restaurant can match: a bird’s eye view of Cincinnati from the west side. The kitchen is equally comfortable with northern and southern regional specialties: a Venetian carpaccio of paper thin raw beef sparked by fruity olive oil; house-made fresh mozzarella stuffed with pesto and mushrooms; or artichoke hearts with snails and mushrooms in a creamy Gorgonzola sauce from Lombardy. Among the classics, nothing is more restorative than the pasta e fagioli, a hearty soup of cannellini, ditali pasta, and bacon. Most of the pastas are cooked just a degree more mellow than

al dente so that they soak up the fragrant tomato basil or satiny cream sauces. The fork-tender osso buco Milanese, with its marrow-filled center bone and salty-sweet brown sauce (marinara and lemon juice), is simply superb. Desserts present further problems; you’ll be hard-pressed to decide between the house-made tiramisu or bread pudding with caramel sauce, marsala soaked raisins, and cream.

810 Matson Pl., Price Hill, (513) 251-6467, pvista.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DC, DS. $$

VIA VITE

Cristian Pietoso serves up crowd-pleasing entrées, including the Pietoso family Bolognese, over penne, right on Fountain Square. (Add in a golf-ball-sized veal meatball heavy with lemon zest, and it’s an over-the-top comforting main dish.) The same applies to the risotto, where a few small touches add sophistication. Carnaroli rice results in a glossier, starchier dish. A puree of asparagus turns the risotto an eye-popping green, and the poached lobster garnish creates a nice back-and-forth between vegetal and briny flavors. Braised lamb shank over polenta is comforting workhorse, and the flavorful Faroe Island salmon with butternut squash puree, caramelized Brussel sprouts and truffled brown butter balsamic vinaigrette.

520 Vine St., downtown, (513) 721-8483, viaviterestaurant.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

J A PA N E S E ANDO

You don’t go just anywhere to dine on uni sashimi (sea urchin) or tanshio (thinly sliced charcoal-grilled beef tongue). Don’t miss the rich and meaty chyu toro (fatty big-eye tuna), or the pucker-inducing umeshiso maki (pick-

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KYOTO WHERE TO EAT NOW

led plum paste and shiso leaf roll). Noodles are also well represented, with udon, soba, or ramen options available. And don’t forget to ask about the specials; owners Ken and Keiko Ando always have something new, be it oysters, pork belly, or steamed monkfish liver, a Japanese delicacy that you’ll be hard-pressed to find in any of those Hyde Park pan-Asian wannabes. The only thing you won’t find here is sake, or any other alcohol. Bring your own, or stick to the nutty and outright addicting barley tea. 5889 Pfeiffer Rd., Blue Ash, (513) 791-8687, andojapaneserestaurant.com. Lunch Tues & Thurs, dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$$

KIKI

Kiki started as a pop-up at Northside Yacht Club, then leapt into brick-and-mortar life in College Hill. Your best bet here is to share plates, or simply order too much, starting with the shishito buono, a piled-high plate of roasted shishito peppers tossed in shaved parmesan and bagna cauda, a warm, rich blend of garlic and anchovies. Add the karaage fried chicken, with the Jordy mayo and the pepe meshi, confit chicken on spaghetti and rice that somehow works. And, yes, the ramen, too. The shio features pork belly and tea-marinated soft-boiled egg, but the kimchi subs in tofu and its namesake cabbage for the meat. 5932 Hamilton Ave., College Hill, (513) 5410381, kikicincinnati.com. Lunch (carryout only) and dinner Thurs–Sun. MCC. $

Owner Jason Shi seems to know everybody’s name as he chats up diners, guiding them through the extensive sushi and sashimi menu. Five young sushi chefs, all part of Shi’s family, work at light speed behind the bar, a choreography backlit by rows of gleaming liquor bottles. Dinner proceeds with glorious chaos as a feisty Carla Tortelli–like server delivers one dish after another—slivers of giant clam on ice in a super-sized martini glass, a volcanic tower of chopped fatty tuna hidden inside overlapping layers of thin avocado slices, smoky grilled New Zealand mussels drizzled with spicy mayo, and delicate slices of a samurai roll—all between shots of chilled sake.

KOREAN HARU

After the closing of Sung Korean Bistro, Haru is a welcome addition to the downtown scene. Dishes are served along with the usual Korean accompaniment of pickles, kimchi, fish cakes, and other mysteriously delicious dainties. A favorite is the japchae, a traditional dish sporting silky sweet potato noodles with sesame-and-garlic sauce, matchsticks of assorted crisp vegetables, and behind it all a wonderful smokiness that pervades the whole meal. The accompanying pot of gochujang, a fermented Korean chili paste, adds its own sweet and spicy note. The result is a homey, soulful, and satisfying taste that appeals even to those who’ve never eaten a bite of Korean food before.

12082 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Twp., (513) 583-8897, kyotosushibar.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

ZUNDO RAMEN & DONBURI

A stark contrast to Styrofoam cup soup, chef Han Lin’s ramens are a deep and exciting branch of cuisine, capable of subtlety, variation, and depth. The simplicity of the dish’s name hides a world of complexity. Zundo uses the traditional Japanese building blocks of flavor—soy sauce, miso, sake, mirin—to create something freewheeling and time-tested. Bowls of ramen come with a marinated soft-boiled egg half, roast pork, green onion, and a healthy serving of noodles. Each has a distinct identity, like the milky richness of the tonkotsu, the rich and buttery miso, or the light and faintly sweet shoyu ramen. A transformative add-in is the mayu, or black garlic oil. Dripped on top of one of the subtler broths, it adds a deep, mushroom-y richness, with the hint of burned flavor that makes barbecue so good.

628 Vine St., downtown, (513) 381-0947, harucincy.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$

RIVERSIDE KOREAN RESTAURANT

Come for the jo gi mae un tang—a bowl of sizzling, happy hellbroth pungent with red pepper, garlic, and ginger, crowded with nuggets of fish, tofu, and vegetables. Come for the restorative power of sam gae tang, a chicken soup for the Seoul—a whole Cornish hen submerged in its own juices and plumped with sticky rice and ginseng, dried red dates, and pine nuts. Revered for their medicinal properties, both dinner-sized soups will leave your eyes glistening and your brow beaded with sweat. They’re a detox for your overindulgence, rejuvenation for when you’re feeling under the weather. Expect crowds on

220 W. 12th St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 9750706, zundootr.com. Lunch Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

THE EXPANDABLES

This winter, neighborhood restaurant and bar Delwood is expanding into the former Dust Jacket bookstore space. The extra room will give the Mt. Lookout eatery an additional 20 to 25 seats and a waiting area for busier nights.

delwoodcincy.com

CINCINNATI’S BEST HOT TUB STORE! 10731 Reading Rd. Cincinnati, Ohio 45241 513-554-0000 www.cincinnatipoolandpatio.com

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featuring

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weekends. Expect too, that dozens of them have come for dolsot bibimbap, the hot stone pots filled with layers of rice, vegetables, meat or tofu, egg, and chili paste. Characterized by its electric color and addictive flavors, Riverside Korean’s version is a captivating bowl of heaven. 512 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 291-1484, riversidekoreanrestaurant.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

SURA

This traditional Korean oasis has been flying well beneath the radar since 2010. Don’t let the pepper count on the menu deter you. Each entrée arrives with purple rice and assorted small bites aimed at cutting the heat—steamed broccoli, pickled radishes, soy-sauce-marinated tofu, pan-fried fish cake, and housemade kimchi. Korean barbecue staple osam bulgogi—one of only two items meriting a three pepper rating—swiftly clears sinuses with a flavorful duo of pork belly and squid lashed with Korean red pepper paste and served on a sizzling skillet. The two-pepper kimchi jjigae stew marries fermented Korean cabbage with hunks of tofu and shards of pork in a bubbling tomato-based broth. Make sure to order a bowl of the bone noodle soup for the table—a comforting combination of thick noodles and bits of flank steak floating in a umami-rich marrow broth that magically soothes the burn. 7876 Mason-Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 204-3456, surakorean.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$ mediterranean

MEDITERRANEAN ANDY’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE

In this lively joint with a burnished summer lodge interior of wood and stone, even the food is unrestrained: rough-cut

chunks of charbroiled beef tenderloin, big slices of onion and green pepper turned sweet and wet in the heat, skewers of marinated and charbroiled chicken perched on rice too generous for its plate. Co-owner Andy Hajjar mans his station at the end of the bar, smoking a hookah pipe that fills the air with the sweet smell of flavored tobacco, while the friendly but hurried staff hustles through.

counter with efficient speed, and whether you’re having a crisp Greek salad with house-made dressing, triangles of spanikopita, or simply the best walnut and honey baklava this side of the Atlantic (often made by the Mrs.), they never miss a beat, turning more covers in their tiny deli on one Saturday afternoon than some restaurants do in an entire weekend.

906 Nassau St., Walnut Hills, (513) 281-9791, andyskabob.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

5209 Glenway Ave., Price Hill, (513) 471-2100, sebastiansgyros.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. Cash. $

PHOENICIAN TAVERNA

No matter how much restraint you go in with, meals at Phoenician Taverna quickly become feasts. There is just too much that’s good, and everything is meant to be shared. With fresh pita bread continuously arriving from the ovens, and a table of quickly multiplying meze (hummus, falafel, muhammara), there is a warmth and depth to the cooking that envelops you. With such traditional cuisine, you may think there isn’t much left to discover beyond simply executed classics prepared according to time-tested methods. But there are always new discoveries as the flavors mingle from plate to plate: the tabbouleh with the hummus, mixed with a touch of harissa, or the smoky baba ghanoush spooned onto falafel. Phoenician Taverna keeps taking these classics a little further. Top 10

7944 Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 770-0027, phoeniciantaverna.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues– Sun. MCC. $$

SEBASTIAN’S

When the wind is just right, you can smell the garlicky meat roasting from a mile away. Watch owner Alex Sebastian tend to the rotating wheels of beef and lamb, and you understand how Greek food has escaped the American tendency to appropriate foreign cuisines. Sebastian’s specializes in gyros, shaved off the stick, wrapped in thick griddle pita with onions and tomatoes, and served with cool tzatziki sauce. Alex’s wife and daughter run the

SULTAN’S MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE

The meze, a parade of small plates and appetizers—the refreshing yogurt dish with cucumber, mint, and garlic known as cacik, and its thicker cousin haydari, with chopped walnuts, dill, and garlic—is rounded out with flaky cheese or spinach boureks, falafels, soups, salads, and more, while baked casseroles or stuffed cabbage and eggplant dishes (dubbed “Ottoman specials”) augment the heavy focus on kebabs: chunks of lamb and beef on a vertical spit for the popular Doner kebab (a.k.a. Turkish gyro), peppery ground lamb for the Adana kebab, or cubed and marinated for the Shish kebab. 7305 Tyler’s Corner Dr., West Chester, (513) 847-1535, sultanscincinnati.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

MEXICAN EL VALLE VERDE

Guests with dietary issues, high anxiety, and no Spanish may take a pass, but for hardy souls, this taqueria delivers a memorable evening. Seafood dishes are the star here— ceviche tostadas, crisp corn tortillas piled high with pico de gallo, avocado, and lime-tastic bits of white fish, squid, and crab; the oversized goblet of cocktel campechano, with

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WHERE TO EAT NOW

ample poached shrimp crammed into a Clamato-heavy gazpacho; and simmering sopa de marisco came with langoustines, mussels, crab legs, and an entire fish—enough to feed three. 6717 Vine St., Carthage, (513) 821-5400. Lunch and dinner seven days. $

HABAÑERO It’s easy to find a cheap burrito place around a college campus, but you’d be hard-pressed to find one as consistently good as Habañero, with its flavors of Latin America and the Caribbean wrapped up in enormous packages. Fried tilapia, apricot-glazed chicken breast, hand-rubbed spiced flank steak, shredded pork tenderloin, or cinnamon-roasted squash are just some of the ingredients for Habañero’s signature burritos. All salsas are house-made, from the smoky tomato chipotle to the sweet-sounding mango jalapeño, which is hot enough to spark spontaneous combustion. 358 Ludlow Ave., Clifton, (513) 961-6800, habanerolatin.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $

MAZUNTE Mazunte runs a culinary full court press, switching up specials to keep both regulars and staff engaged. Tamales arrive swaddled in a banana leaf, the shredded pork filling steeped in a sauce fiery with guajillo and ancho chilies yet foiled by the calming sweetness of raisins. The fried mahi-mahi tacos are finished with a citrusy red and white cabbage slaw that complements the accompanying mangohabañero salsa. With this level of authentic yet fast-paced execution, a slightly greasy pozole can be easily forgiven. Don’t miss the Mexican Coke and self-serve sangria (try

the blanco), or the cans of Rhinegeist and MadTree on ice. 5207 Madison Rd., Madisonville, (513) 785-0000, mazuntetacos.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $

MONTOYA’S Mexican places seem to change hands in this town so often that you can’t get the same meal twice. Montoya’s is the exception. They’ve been hidden in a tiny strip mall off the main drag in Ft. Mitchell for years. It’s unpretentious and seemingly not interested in success, which means success has never gone to their head here. At a place where you can get Huracan Fajitas with steak, chicken, and chorizo or Tilapia Asada, the tacos are still a big item. 2507 Chelsea Dr., Ft. Mitchell, (859) 341-0707. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DS. $

TAQUERIA CRUZ The menu at this four-table mom-and-pop welcomes you to “a little piece of Mexico.” The huaraches (spelled guarachis here), are flat troughs of thick, handmade fried masa dough the approximate shape and size of a shoeprint, mounded with beans and slivers of grilled beef or chili-red nubs of sausage, shredded lettuce, a crumble of queso fresco, and drizzle of cultured cream. Should you have an adventurous side, you can have your huarache topped with slippery tongue, goat meat, shredded chicken, or pork. There are stews, carne asada plates, and sopes— saucers of fried masa much like huaraches, only smaller. 518 Pike St., Covington, (859) 431-3859. Lunch and dinner seven days. Cash. $

STEAKS CARLO & JOHNNY The stars of the menu are 12 delectable steaks that could

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sway the vegi-curious to recommit. Not sure which to choose? If you prefer brawny flavor over buttery texture, go for one of the three bone-in rib cuts. Or if it’s that melt-in-your-mouth experience that raises your serotonin levels, C&J features several tenderloin cuts, including the hard to find bone-in filet. There are the usual suspects of raw bar, seafood, pork chops, et al, if you’re interested in non-beef alternatives. 9769 Montgomery Rd., Montgomery, (513) 936-8600, jeffruby.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

JAG’S STEAK AND SEAFOOD Chef Michelle Brown’s food is deeply flavored, if occasionally a bit busy, her steaks of the buttery-mild variety, with not too much salty char crust. All seven cuts are served with veal demi-glace and fried onion straws. According to my steak-centric dining partner, his cowboy rib eye is “too tender and uniform” (as if that’s a crime). “I like to wrestle with the bone,” he adds, though that’s a scenario that, thankfully, doesn’t get played out in this subdued dining room. 5980 West Chester Rd., West Chester, (513) 860-5353, jags.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC. $$$

JEFF RUBY’S Filled most nights with local scenesters and power brokers (and those who think they are), everything in this urban steakhouse is generous—from the portions to the expert service. White-jacketed waiters with floor-length aprons deliver two-fisted martinis and stacks of king crab legs, or mounds of greens dressed in thin vinaigrettes or thick, creamy emulsions. An occasional salmon or sea bass appears, and there’s a small but decent assortment of land fare. But most customers, even the willowy model types, inhale slabs of beef (dry aged USDA prime) like they’re dining in a crack house for carnivores. The best of these is Jeff Ruby’s Jewel, nearly a pound-and-a-half of bone-in rib eye. This is steak tailor-made for movers and shakers. 700 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 784-1200, jeffruby. com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC. $$$$


MORTON’S THE STEAKHOUSE

No one has replicated the concept of an expensive boys’ club better than Morton’s. Amid the dark polished woods and white linen, the Riedel stemware and stupendous flower arrangements, assorted suits grapple with double cut filet mignons, 24 ounces of porterhouse, pink shiny slabs of prime rib, overflowing plates of salty Lyonnaise potatoes, or mammoth iceberg wedges frosted with thick blue cheese dressing. Jumbo is Morton’s decree: Oversized martini and wine glasses, ethereal towering lemon soufflés, roomy chairs, and tables large enough for a plate and a laptop. Even steaks billed as “slightly smaller” weigh in at 8 to 10 ounces.

mushrooms; toppings of roasted garlic or Gorgonzola butters to accompany your center cut of filet mignon. There are boutique touches, though, that make it stand out—a garlic herb aioli with the calamari, steak tartare torch-kissed and topped with a poached egg, a superb rack of lamb rubbed with aromatic sumac and served with mint pesto. 12110 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Township, (513) 6778669, tonysofcincinnati.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$$

THE PRECINCT

Part of the appeal of the Ruby restaurants is their ability to deliver deep, comfort-food satisfaction. And the steaks. The meat is tender with a rich mineral flavor, and the signature seasoning provided a nice crunch, not to mention blazing heat. The supporting cast is strong—the basket of warm Sixteen Bricks bread with a mushroom truffle butter, the addictive baked macaroni and cheese, the creamy garlic mashed potatoes, the crisp-tender asparagus with roasted garlic and lemon vinaigrette—and dinner ends on a sweet note with a piece of Ruby family recipe cheesecake. Neither cloyingly sweet nor overwhelmingly creamy, it’s a lovely slice of restraint. 311 Delta Ave., Columbia-Tusculum, (513) 321-5454, jeffruby.com/precinct. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

TONY’S

He is a captivating presence, Tony Ricci. Best known for his 30 years in fine dining—including the Jeff Ruby empire while managing the venerable Precinct—Ricci has built a life in the hospitality industry. Much of Tony’s menu is right out of a steakhouse playbook: jumbo shrimp and king crab legs from the raw bar; Caprese, Greek, and Caesar salads; sides of creamed spinach, mac-and-cheese, asparagus, and sautéed

5461 North Bend Rd., Monfort Heights, (513) 481-3360, thainamtip.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MC, V. $

WILD GINGER

THAI

441 Vine St., downtown, (513) 621-3111, mortons.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$

the sharply verdant Thai basil leaves, followed by a distant heat. Tom Kha Gai soup defines the complex interplay of flavors in Thai food: astringent lemongrass gives way to pepper, then Makrut lime, shot through with the gingery, herbaceous galangal, all yielding to the taunting sweetness of coconut. Even the simple skewers of chicken satay with Thai peanut sauce are rough and honest, dulcified by honey and dirtied up by a smoky grill.

GREEN PAPAYA

Inside this simple dining room, replete with soothing browns and greens and handsome, dark wood furniture, it takes time to sort through the many curries and chef’s specialties, not to mention the wide variety of sushi on the something-for-everyone menu. Have the staff—friendly, attentive, and knowledgeable—help you. When the food arrives, you’ll need only a deep inhale to know you made the right choice. The Green Papaya sushi rolls are as delicious as they look, with a manic swirl of spicy mayo and bits of crabstick and crispy tempura batter scattered atop the spicy tuna, mango, cream cheese, and shrimp tempura sushi—all rolled in a vivid green soybean wrap. 2942 Wasson Rd., Oakley, (513) 731-0107, greenpapayacincinnati.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

THAI NAMTIP

Classic Thai comfort food on the west side from chef/owner Tussanee Leach, who grew up with galangal on her tongue and sriracha sauce in her veins. Her curries reign: pale yellow sweetened with coconut milk and poured over tender chicken breast and chunks of boiled pineapple; red curry the color of new brick, tasting of earth at first bite, then

Wild Ginger Asian Bistro’s ability to satisfy a deep desire for Vietnamese and Thai fusion cuisine is evidenced by their signature Hee Ma roll—a fortress of seaweed-wrapped rolls filled with shrimp tempura, asparagus, avocado, and topped with red tuna, pulled crab stick, tempura flakes, a bit of masago, scallions, and of course, spicy mayo. It’s tasty, even though the sweet fried floodwall of tempura and spicy mayo overpowered the tuna completely. The spicy pad char entrée was a solid seven out of 10: broccoli, carrots, cabbage, succulent red bell peppers, green beans, and beef, accented with basil and lime leaves in a peppercorn-andchili brown sauce. 3655 Edwards Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 533-9500, wildgingercincy.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sun. MCC, DS. $$ CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, (ISSN 0746-8 210), December 2021, Volume 55, Number 3. Published monthly ($14.95 for 12 issues annually) at 1818 Race St., Ste. 301, Cincinnati, OH 45250. (513) 421-4300. Copyright © 2021 by Cincinnati Magazine LLC, a subsidiary of Hour Media Group, 5750 New King Dr, Ste 100, Troy, MI 48098. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or reprinted without permission. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, and artwork should be accompanied by SASE for return. The magazine cannot be held responsible for loss. For subscription orders, address changes or renewals, write to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071, or call 1-866-660-6247. Periodicals postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Please send forms 3579 to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071. If the Postal Service alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year.

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CINCY OBSCURA

Our Knight’s Tale THE WAY THE knights tell it, Harry D. Andrews was the stuff of legends. There’s the time he was declared dead during World War I, only to be declared undead six months later. And there is, of course, his most tangible claim to fame—the castle on the banks of the Little Miami River, built by hand using little more than river stones and cement. When the schoolteacher and medievalist took over Sunday School at his local church in the early 1920s, a dozen 12-year-old boys under his care collectively proclaimed that America was on the downslide. And they wanted to fight back by reorganizing King Arthur’s Knights of the Round Table. “[But] they told Harry they didn’t think they were going to be real knights because they didn’t have a castle,” says Sir Dave, a member of the Knights of the Golden Trail. “Harry told them if they helped pull rock from the river he’d buy the property and build them a castle.” Loveland Castle was Andrews’s life’s work, taking over 50 years to complete and drawing visitors of all stripes. Thirty years after Andrews’s passing, his loyal knights still stand watch. —LAUREN FISHER

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PH OTO G R A PH BY W E S BAT TO C LET TE


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